Lily-of-the-Valley Porch Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny set is designed to capture the soft spring mood of an heirloom stuffed rabbit displayed on a sunny porch. The finished doll has a calm vintage look, a pale mint pinafore, a rounded beret with lily-of-the-valley trim, tiny bags, a berry basket, and a matching mouse friend. If you love searching for a handcrafted bunny doll, collectible nursery toy, spring rabbit gift, or cottage-style plush display, this design brings that look into a fully handmade project with charming details and a polished finish.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with a large rounded head, long soft ears, a simple embroidered face, slim arms, sturdy legs, little shoes, a mint pinafore dress, puffed sleeves with lily-of-the-valley embroidery, a beret, two small bags, a basket of tiny fruit, and a separate mouse companion.

The proportions are important to the finished look. The bunny’s head is noticeably large and round, the body is shorter and gently tapered, the arms hang low and narrow, and the feet are softly oval rather than flat blocks. The overall silhouette should feel elegant, tidy, and slightly old-fashioned.

The sample in the image appears firmly knitted with smooth stockinette surfaces and very light shaping. To match that appearance, use a tight gauge for all stuffed parts. Keep stuffing even and controlled so the bunny stands with a soft but stable posture.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight wool or wool-blend in warm cream.
• Dress and beret yarn: DK weight in pale mint green.
• Mouse yarn: light gray, soft green, and a very small amount of cream or blush.
• Accessory yarns: tan, brown, dusty pink, berry pink, leaf green, and white.
• Knitting needles: 2.5 mm double-pointed needles and 3 mm straight or circular needles.
• Embroidery needle for face and floral details.
• Tapestry needle for seaming and finishing.
• Stuffing: soft polyester filling or wool stuffing.
• Weighted filling: optional fine pellets in a fabric pouch for the lower body.
• Black embroidery floss for the eyes.
• Brown embroidery floss for the nose and mouth.
• Thin floral wire: optional for basket handle and stem support in the hat trim.
• Small pieces of felt or interfacing: optional to stabilize tiny bags.

Finished Size

The bunny is approximately 13 to 15 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the beret. The mouse is approximately 3 inches tall. Exact size will vary depending on your yarn, stuffing density, and tension.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

For stuffed pieces, knit tightly enough that the stuffing does not show through. On 2.5 mm needles with DK yarn, aim for a dense, smooth fabric. The garment pieces may be worked slightly more softly on 3 mm needles, but the finish should still look neat and compact.

All measurements in this design are visual rather than technical garment-fit measurements. Matching the shape matters more than matching every row count exactly. Count often, compare both sides, and keep shaping symmetrical.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• G st = garter stitch
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• sts = stitches

Construction Notes

The bunny is worked in separate parts and assembled. The legs are made first, then joined into the lower body. The torso and head are shaped as one continuous piece for the smooth neck and rounded face shown in the image. Arms, ears, clothes, and accessories are added afterward.

The blouse effect visible under the pinafore is created with cream knitted upper body sections and separate puff sleeves. The mint pinafore is worked as a slipover dress with broad shoulder shaping and a front patch pocket. This layering is what gives the doll its dressed, refined look.

Bunny Legs and Lower Body

Feet

Make 2 in cream on 2.5 mm needles.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 1 row P.
3. Increase across the next RS row to 16 sts by working kfb at regular intervals.
4. Work 5 rows in St st, beginning with a P row.
5. Shape the toe by increasing 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 3 times. You now have 22 sts.
6. Work 6 rows even.
7. Begin underside shaping. On each RS row, work to 2 sts before center, k2tog, k2tog after center. Repeat 3 times to reduce depth and form a neat sole.
8. Work 1 WS row.
9. Transfer stitches so the seam sits at the back of the leg.

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Stuff the toe firmly and shape it into a soft oval. The front of each foot should be rounded, not pointed. The image shows smooth shoes over rounded feet, so avoid overstuffing the instep.

Legs

1. Continue from each foot and work 18 to 20 rows in the round on 16 to 18 sts, adjusting if needed so both legs match.
2. The legs should be straight and slim, with only a slight widening above the ankle.
3. Stuff the legs firmly but not hard. Keep the back seam centered.

The finished legs should look cylindrical and tidy. In the photo, the bunny’s knees are not strongly defined. Keep the shaping minimal and let the dress cover the upper leg join.

Joining the Legs and Shaping the Lower Body

1. Place both legs side by side with toes pointing forward.
2. Join onto one needle and CO 4 sts between the legs at the front, then 4 sts at the back if working fully in the round.
3. Work 6 rounds even.
4. On the next 4 shaping rounds, decrease 1 stitch at each side of the inner leg joins to soften the transition into the body.
5. Work even until the body measures about 2 1/4 inches above the leg join.

Add a small weighted pouch inside the lower torso if you want the bunny to stand more securely. Keep the weight low and centered. Surround it with stuffing so it does not shift.

Torso

The body is shorter than the head and only gently wider at the base. It should resemble a small oval column with a subtle waist. Continue in cream.

1. Work 8 rows even.
2. Decrease 4 sts evenly over the next RS round or row.
3. Work 6 rows even.
4. Decrease 2 sts evenly to suggest a soft waist.
5. Work 4 rows even.
6. Increase 2 sts evenly to fill the upper chest.
7. Work until the torso from leg join to neck measures about 4 inches.

Stuff the body as you go. The front should remain smooth because it will show behind the pinafore neckline. Avoid lumpy stuffing near the chest.

Neck and Head

The bunny’s head is large, almost spherical, and wider than the torso. The neck is short and neat. Continue directly from the torso.

1. Work 2 to 3 rows on the current stitch count while decreasing a few stitches to narrow for the neck.
2. On the next shaping rounds, increase evenly in stages until the head circumference is about one and a half times the width of the torso.
3. Work even for the lower face section.
4. Increase slightly again across two shaping rounds to create full cheeks and forehead.
5. Work even until the head height is roughly equal to the head width.
6. Begin crown shaping by decreasing evenly every other round.
7. When a small opening remains, stuff the head very firmly and close the top.

As you stuff, shape the face with your hands. The front should be broad and smooth with a soft muzzle area formed by later stitching, not by heavy short-row shaping. The back of the head should be rounded and full.

Optional Face Sculpting

Thread a long strand of matching cream yarn and make one gentle sculpting pass from the base of the head up into the muzzle area. Pull lightly to create the slight center definition seen above the mouth. This should be subtle. The face in the image is calm and smooth, not deeply modeled.

Ears

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Work flat in St st for 6 rows.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 3 times.
4. Continue straight until the ear is long enough to reach from the side of the beret to just below the shoulder.
5. Begin tapering by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every 4th row until 10 sts remain.
6. Work 4 rows even.
7. Decrease gradually to 4 sts.
8. Thread yarn through remaining sts and close.

Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and steam if needed so it hangs softly. Do not overstuff. These ears should be flat and relaxed. Sew them to the sides of the head beneath the beret line so they fall straight down with only a slight outward angle.

Arms

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 12 sts and join for working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
2. Work 4 rounds even.
3. Increase 2 sts evenly for the upper arm.
4. Work until the arm length reaches just past the waistline of the dress.
5. Taper near the wrist by decreasing 2 sts over the last 6 rows.
6. Bind off or gather closed depending on your preferred hand finish.

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Stuff the top half firmly and the lower half only lightly. Flatten the arm ends before sewing. In the image, the arms are slim tubes with no separated paws. Sew them slightly downward from the shoulders so they rest naturally along the dress.

Puffed Sleeves

Make 2 in cream on 3 mm needles. These are separate sleeve caps that give the blouse its gathered shoulder shape.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in a soft textured pattern, such as alternating knit and purl columns, to suggest the lightly patterned sleeve fabric.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end on the next RS row.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end every 2nd row 3 times.
6. Work 2 rows even.
7. Bind off loosely.

Gather the top and lower edge very slightly when sewing in place so the sleeve looks full and rounded. The puff should sit high over the upper arm and not hang like a sleeve cuff. This detail is important to match the image.

Lily-of-the-Valley Embroidery on Sleeves

Use green yarn or embroidery thread for stems and white yarn for the small flowers. Each sleeve has a short stem cluster curving outward from the neckline area toward the shoulder.

• Embroider 2 fine green stems on each sleeve.
• Add 3 to 4 tiny hanging white buds per sleeve.
• Each bud can be made with a wrapped French-knot style cluster or a tiny knitted nubbin sewn in place.
• Keep the arrangement airy and delicate.

The flowers should be small and slightly raised. They are decorative accents, not dense appliqué.

Mint Pinafore Dress

The dress is a simple sleeveless pinafore with a high rounded bib, broad straps, gentle A-line shape, and a front patch pocket. Work in pale mint green.

Front

1. CO enough sts to fit around the lower torso with a little ease. For most gauges, 42 to 48 sts is suitable.
2. Work 4 rows in G st for the hem.
3. Change to St st and work upward, decreasing 1 stitch at each side every 8th row 3 times to create a mild taper.
4. When the piece reaches the waist, work even for several rows.
5. Shape the bib by binding off 4 to 5 sts at each underarm edge.
6. Continue on the center stitches only to form the upper bib.
7. Work straight to the upper chest.
8. Shape straps by dividing for neck opening and continue each side separately.
9. Make the straps broad enough to read as sturdy pinafore shoulders, not narrow dress straps.

Back

1. Work to match the front skirt width and taper.
2. At the upper back, bind off slightly less deeply than the front neckline.
3. Shape broad shoulder straps to match the front.
4. Sew or graft the straps at the shoulders.

The neckline should sit fairly high and rounded. The armholes should be neat and close to the body. Sew the side seams smoothly so the dress falls straight over the bunny’s torso.

Front Patch Pocket

1. CO 14 to 16 sts in mint.
2. Work 2 rows G st.
3. Work 12 to 14 rows in St st.
4. Shape the lower corners by decreasing 1 stitch at each end once, then work 2 more rows.
5. Work 2 rows G st at the top edge and bind off.

Sew the pocket onto the center front of the skirt portion, slightly below the waist. Leave the top open. In the image, the pocket is large and rounded, becoming a focal detail on the front of the dress.

Beret

The beret is soft, round, and slouchy, sitting low over the bunny’s forehead and slightly tilted. Work in mint green.

1. CO stitches to fit around the head just above the eyes and ears.
2. Work 5 to 6 rounds in rib or a firm folded band.
3. Increase evenly across the next round by about 40 to 50 percent to create the beret fullness.
4. Work in St st for several rounds until the top spreads outward into a wide dome.
5. Begin crown shaping with evenly spaced decreases every other round.
6. When the opening is small, draw closed tightly.

The finished beret should puff gently at the top and fall to one side. Position it low enough to almost touch the eye line. This creates the sweet, soft expression seen in the image.

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Beret Lily-of-the-Valley Trim

Make a small floral spray using knit, wrapped, or embroidered elements.

• Knit or crochet 2 leaves in green, each about 1 inch long.
• Create 5 to 7 tiny white bobble buds.
• Arrange them in a branching spray with the leaves at the base.
• Sew the spray to one side of the beret band.

The trim should angle upward and outward. Keep it compact. It should look like a small hat corsage, not a large bouquet.

Shoes

The shoes are soft cream slip-on booties that cover the lower foot and ankle. They are smoother and slightly brighter in shape than the legs.

1. Pick up stitches around the ankle of each leg after assembly, or make separate bootie covers.
2. Work 4 rows in rib or twisted rib for the top edge.
3. Continue in St st over the foot.
4. Use paired decreases over the toe to round the front smoothly.
5. Close the sole with mattress stitch if worked flat.

The shoes should not be bulky. The opening sits at the ankle, giving the impression of simple little knitted slippers.

Small Crossbody Floral Bag

This small soft bag hangs at the bunny’s left side and crosses the chest diagonally. Work in tan.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work 16 rows in a firm textured stitch, such as seed stitch or tightly worked St st with a slipped-edge border.
3. Fold into a rectangle and seam the sides.
4. Knit or twist a long narrow strap and sew it securely to both top corners.

Embroider a tiny floral motif on the front using pink, green, and white. The image suggests a little berry-and-blossom cluster. Keep the embroidery centered and delicate.

Small Side Satchel

The tiny side satchel hangs on the bunny’s right hip. It looks like a compact little pocket bag with a flap and a tiny object tucked inside.

1. CO 10 sts in tan.
2. Work 12 rows in St st or seed stitch.
3. Fold and seam to make a narrow pouch.
4. Add a small flap by picking up stitches at the upper back edge and working 4 rows, then shaping the corners.
5. Sew a thin strap around the bunny or attach it lightly to the dress side seam.

You may place a tiny folded felt rectangle inside to resemble a notebook or garden tag. Let the top edge show slightly, as in the image.

Berry Basket

The basket is small, round, and textured. It sits in the bunny’s left hand. Work in brown or tan.

1. CO 6 sts and join.
2. Increase evenly over several rounds to form a flat circle.
3. Work the next round through the back loops only to create a base edge.
4. Continue upward in a textured stitch to imitate woven strands.
5. When the basket reaches the right depth, bind off firmly.
6. Make a handle as an i-cord or twisted cord and attach to opposite sides.

Fill the basket with tiny knitted or embroidered fruit and blossoms. Use berry pink nubbins, white buds, and a little green. Secure them inside so they do not fall out.

Mouse Companion

The mouse is a separate miniature figure placed beside the bunny. It has a gray body, small ears, black eyes, a pale muzzle, a green dress, and a tilted leaf-like hat.

Mouse Body and Head

1. Make 2 gray pieces or work one continuous body from the feet upward.
2. For a one-piece version, CO 10 sts for the base and increase to 18 sts.
3. Work a short lower body tube.
4. Decrease slightly for a waist.
5. Increase again for the chest and head.
6. Shape a rounded head with a narrower chin area than the bunny.
7. Stuff firmly and close the top.

The mouse should be slim and upright, with a body proportion shorter than the bunny’s. The head is oval rather than round.

Mouse Arms and Legs

• Make 2 tiny gray arms as narrow tubes.
• Make 2 tiny gray legs with slightly wider feet.
• Attach close to the body so the mouse stands neatly.

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Mouse Ears and Tail

• Make 2 small circular ears in gray.
• Sew them high on the head.
• For the tail, twist a thin gray cord and attach low at the back.

Mouse Dress

1. CO a small number of sts in soft green.
2. Work 2 rows G st for the hem.
3. Work upward in St st, decreasing slightly toward the chest.
4. Bind off at the upper edge and seam at the back.

The mouse dress should be very simple and close fitting, with a slightly flared hem.

Mouse Hat

Make one small green leaf-shaped cap.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Increase near the center over the next few rows to form a soft leaf shape.
3. Decrease to a point.
4. Add a tiny stem or central vein with embroidery.
5. Attach at a slight angle over one ear.

Facial Features

The bunny’s face is very simple, and the placement matters. The eyes are tiny black vertical embroidered dots placed far apart on the upper half of the face. The nose and mouth are stitched in brown with a soft Y-shaped structure, but kept very short.

• Mark the center of the face first.
• Place the eyes evenly on either side, slightly above the midpoint of the head.
• Use only a few stitches for each eye.
• Embroider a tiny triangular nose at the muzzle center.
• Extend one short vertical stitch downward and split into two tiny mouth lines.

For the mouse, use tiny black eyes and a smaller pinkish or cream nose with fine whisker stitches if desired.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff both legs.
2. Join legs and complete body and head.
3. Add optional weight to lower body.
4. Sew on ears.
5. Attach arms.
6. Sew puff sleeves in place.
7. Dress the bunny in the pinafore.
8. Add the patch pocket.
9. Fit and tack the beret in place.
10. Attach floral hat trim.
11. Make and add both bags.
12. Make basket and fill it.
13. Complete the mouse and place beside the bunny.
14. Finish the embroidered faces last.

Styling Notes for an Accurate Look

Keep the colors soft. The cream should be warm rather than stark white, and the mint should be pale and powdery. Bright green will change the mood too much.

Do not over-accessorize. The beauty of the set comes from proportion and restraint. Every item is small, balanced, and placed with intention.

Let the beret sit low. This strongly affects the personality of the bunny. A higher hat placement makes the face look too open and less like the image.

Keep the face tiny. Large eyes or a wide mouth will not match the gentle handmade expression shown.

Make the sleeve flowers delicate. The floral details should look airy and fresh, not heavy.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all pieces are sewn in place, sit the bunny upright and check the balance from the front and side. Adjust the arms so they hang naturally. Angle the ears evenly beneath the beret. Add the eyes first, then the nose and mouth, because a tiny shift in eye placement changes the whole expression.

Once the face feels calm and centered, tack the bags and basket so they stay in the right position. The crossbody strap should lie diagonally across the chest without pulling the dress out of shape.

Care Notes

Keep the doll away from rough play if you want to preserve the accessories and embroidery. This design works best as a decorative knitted keepsake, nursery piece, shelf display, or seasonal spring ornament.

If the beret or dress shifts over time, reshape gently by hand rather than pulling sharply on the seams.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears attached at the same height?
• Does the bunny stand or lean attractively without collapsing forward?
• Is the dress centered with the pocket at the front middle?
• Are the eyes evenly placed and small enough?
• Does the beret sit low and slightly tilted?
• Are the sleeve flowers and hat flowers balanced but not crowded?
• Are the bags and basket secured firmly?
• Does the mouse companion look scaled correctly beside the bunny?

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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean whenever possible using a damp cloth and a tiny amount of mild soap. Avoid soaking the doll, especially if you used weighted filling, embroidery, or tiny decorative attachments. Rinse the cloth well and blot gently.

If the doll needs deeper cleaning, hand wash very carefully in cool water, support the shape with both hands, and press out moisture in a towel without twisting. Dry flat, reshape the head, ears, beret, and dress, and allow everything to air dry fully before display.

Store out of direct sunlight to prevent fading, and keep the doll in a breathable cotton bag or on a clean shelf to protect it from dust while preserving the soft knitted texture.