Sweet Pea Garden Bunny – Knitting

This charming knitted bunny is designed as a soft heirloom rabbit with a spring garden look, perfect for nursery decor, seasonal display, handmade gift giving, and collectors who love artisan stuffed animals. The set includes the bunny, a peach dress with sweet pea embroidery, a brimmed hat, pink shoes, a tiny flower basket, a crossbody garden pouch, a knitted frog friend, a watering can, and little garden snips. It has the feel of a boutique handmade bunny doll that many shoppers search for when looking for a knitted rabbit toy, spring bunny decor, or an Easter gift idea.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design is built to match the image closely. The bunny has a large rounded head, a softly stuffed cylindrical neck, a gentle pear-shaped body, long straight legs, slightly curved arms, and long drooping ears that fall from beneath the hat.

The face is simple and sweet. Small dark eyes sit wide apart and slightly above the muzzle line. The nose is stitched in a soft Y shape, with a tiny split mouth centered low on the muzzle. The cheeks are full, but not exaggerated.

The clothing and accessories create the full garden character. The dress is worked in a pale peach tone with a smooth skirt, narrow straps, and a lightly flared silhouette. The floral decoration is concentrated across the lower front of the skirt.

The embellishment matters here. The sweet pea vines are embroidered in green, while the blossoms are made as padded knitted petals and sewn on top so the flowers stand away from the dress rather than lying flat. This raised texture is one of the key visual features.

The hat is a warm oatmeal-beige with a rounded crown and a firm rolled brim. The shoes are pale pink Mary Jane style slippers with one strap and a tiny side button on each shoe.

The small pieces complete the scene: a basket of flowers held in one paw, a small knitted frog in overalls beside the bunny, a green watering can, tiny garden snips, and a small brown pouch with a white daisy and pale green leaves hanging from a twisted strap.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: sport or light DK weight in warm cream
• Dress yarn: light peach
• Hat yarn: oatmeal beige
• Shoes yarn: pale blush pink
• Pouch and basket yarn: medium warm brown
• Frog yarn: leaf green
• Frog overalls yarn: oatmeal or dusty beige
• Watering can yarn: soft green, slightly lighter than the frog
• Flower yarn scraps: white, butter yellow, lavender, lilac, dusty pink, rose pink, and pale mint
• Embroidery yarn: green for vines and stems, brown or taupe for facial shaping if needed
• Safety eyes or black beads: two very small pieces for the bunny, two slightly larger small pieces for the frog
• Toy stuffing
• Light cardboard or flexible plastic circle for stabilizing hat brim if desired
• Small buttons: two pink for bunny shoes, two tiny brown or wood-tone for frog overalls
• Knitting needles: sizes suitable for a firm fabric, usually 2.25 mm to 3.0 mm depending on your yarn
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop needles for small circumferences
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Scrap yarn holders

Finished Size

When worked in sport or light DK yarn at a firm toy gauge, the bunny stands about 14 to 16 inches tall from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet, not including the hat. The frog sits at about 4 inches tall.

The accessories are intentionally miniature. The basket should fit neatly into one paw. The pouch should sit at hip height. The watering can should rest on the table beside the frog without looking oversized. The garden snips should be delicate and slightly smaller than the frog’s torso.

Gauge and Fabric

The fabric must be dense. You should not see stuffing through the stitches. Use a needle size smaller than you would use for garments. The bunny in the image has a smooth, even stockinette surface with very little visible stretch.

As a general guide, aim for a fabric around 7 to 8 stitches per inch in stockinette if using sport weight yarn, or 6.5 to 7 stitches per inch if using a fine DK. Exact gauge is less important than proportion and firmness.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• BO = bind off

Color Placement and Visual Notes

Before you begin, study the color distribution. The bunny itself is entirely cream. The hat is beige. The dress is pale peach with green embroidery and blossoms in lilac, pale pink, and medium pink. The shoes are a muted baby pink.

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The brown pouch hangs from the bunny’s right shoulder to the left hip area in the image. The basket is held in the bunny’s left paw. The frog sits on the bunny’s right side. The watering can is placed near the frog, and the garden snips rest in front.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are long, straight, and softly stuffed. They are not chunky. Each leg ends in a rounded foot that disappears inside the pink shoe, so the cream leg itself should stay slim above the ankle.

1. CO a small oval foot base in cream. Work a rounded toe by increasing gradually across the first several rounds or rows.
2. Knit even for the foot length until it measures slightly shorter than the finished shoe length.
3. Begin gentle decreases at the ankle so the leg narrows slightly above the foot.
4. Work the leg straight in St st for a long tube. The leg should appear elegant and proportionally longer than the body depth.
5. Stuff the foot firmly and the leg more lightly. Leave a long tail for joining to the body.

The two legs should be matched carefully. Because the bunny is seated in the image, both legs hang straight down with a soft bend only where gravity pulls them from the body. Do not wire them if you want a cuddly finish.

Bunny Body

The body is short compared with the leg length and widens gently from the upper chest down to the lower tummy. It is soft, rounded, and slightly pear shaped. The dress covers almost all of it, so smooth shaping matters more than decorative stitches.

1. Begin at the lower body and work upward in cream.
2. Increase gradually to create a rounded lower tummy.
3. Knit even through the widest section.
4. Decrease lightly toward the upper chest so the shoulder line is narrower than the hip line.
5. Join the legs securely as you work or sew them in place afterward, checking that they hang evenly.
6. Finish with a narrower neck opening.

Stuff the lower body firmly enough to keep the bunny seated upright when propped, but do not overpack the chest. A slightly softer upper body gives a more natural drape beneath the dress straps.

Bunny Arms Make 2

The arms are slim and gentle, reaching to about the dress waist area when hanging down. They are not bent sharply. The paws are softly rounded, with no separate fingers.

1. CO at the paw end in cream.
2. Increase just enough to form a rounded paw.
3. Work straight for the forearm.
4. Add one or two tiny shaping decreases near the elbow area if desired.
5. Continue straight to the upper arm.
6. Stuff lightly, keeping the arm flexible.
7. Leave a long tail for sewing.

The left paw must be positioned to hold the basket. The right arm hangs near the pouch strap. When sewing the arms, pin them first so the shoulder line looks soft and natural.

Bunny Head

The head is one of the most important shapes in this design. It is large, rounded, and slightly longer vertically than horizontally. The muzzle is full but integrated, not a separate protruding snout. The cheeks are soft and balanced.

1. Begin at the top of the head in cream.
2. Increase evenly to form a smooth dome.
3. Work even through the fullest part of the skull.
4. Shape the lower face with slight decreases, keeping enough width for a rounded cheek line.
5. Create a subtle muzzle either through short-row shaping, strategic stuffing, or stitched sculpting after assembly.
6. Leave the neck opening wide enough to attach securely to the body.

Stuff the head very firmly and smooth out any lumps. The image shows a beautifully even face surface, so take time here. Before closing, place a little extra stuffing around the muzzle and lower cheeks.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, wide at the base, and softly tapered at the tip. They hang down rather than standing up. They are made in the same cream yarn as the bunny, and each ear is flat rather than stuffed heavily.

1. CO at the base of the ear.
2. Work in St st, decreasing slowly along both sides to create a long leaf shape with rounded tip.
3. Make the ear slightly wider in the lower third, then narrower toward the end.
4. For a smoother drape, do not stuff the ear. Lightly steam or block if needed.

Each ear should reach from beneath the hat brim down past the shoulder area. In the image, both ears lie flat against the sides of the head and body, framing the face gently.

Neck

The bunny has a visible cream neck between the head and dress neckline. It is not extremely long, but it is noticeable. Use firm stuffing and careful stitching so the head does not wobble.

If your bunny tends to tilt forward under the weight of the hat, add a rolled felt or fabric insert inside the neck, or reinforce with extra tight stitching around the neck seam.

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Hat

The hat is a classic garden style with a rounded crown and a broad downward brim. It is not floppy. The brim curves downward softly around the face and ears, creating a cozy, slightly vintage silhouette.

1. CO for the crown top or work a circular top from the center outward.
2. Shape a shallow dome for the crown. Do not make it tall. The image shows a modest rounded crown.
3. Work a straight band section so the hat sits low over the forehead.
4. Increase for the brim.
5. Work the brim wide enough to frame the head and cover the ear bases.
6. Finish with a firm edge. A folded hem, tight garter band, or hidden plastic support can help the brim hold shape.

The hat should sit low and slightly forward. It must not hide the eyes, but it should rest just above them. Sew the hat in place with a few hidden tacking stitches after the ears are arranged.

Dress

The dress is sleeveless with a simple bib front, narrow straps, and a gathered-looking skirt created through stitch increases. The overall line is soft and childlike. The skirt is wide enough to spread over the bunny’s lap while seated.

Bodice

1. CO for the upper front bib in pale peach.
2. Work a rectangle in St st or smooth knit fabric. Keep it narrow enough to show the cream shoulders on either side.
3. Create two slender straps from the upper corners.
4. Work a matching back upper section if you prefer a fully separate dress, or pick up stitches later for the back.

The front bib should be centered on the chest. It is plain, with no decorative edge. The neckline is high and straight. The straps are delicate and sit close to the outer shoulder line.

Skirt

1. Pick up or work outward from the lower bodice edge.
2. Increase across the first skirt section to create gentle fullness.
3. Knit the skirt downward in smooth St st.
4. Add a little extra fullness through one more increase round or row in the upper third if needed.
5. Finish the hem with a neat border. A narrow garter edge works well and matches the image.

The hemline falls below the bunny’s knees when seated. It does not puddle heavily. The front of the skirt is the visual focus, so keep the fabric smooth and even for the embroidery and blossom placement.

Sweet Pea Embroidery and Raised Blossoms

This feature gives the dress its signature look. The vines are embroidered directly onto the skirt in green yarn or embroidery thread. The blossoms are knitted separately in tiny petal shapes, lightly stuffed or layered, then stitched onto the vines.

Vine Layout

Use removable markers to sketch the arrangement before sewing. The motif begins low on the left side, climbs upward and inward, then spreads across the center front. Another vine rises on the right side with smaller blossoms. The stems are delicate and branching.

• Keep the vines thin and slightly curved.
• Add small leaf pairs along the stems.
• Do not cover the whole skirt. Leave negative space.
• Concentrate the blossoms on the lower half of the front skirt.

Blossoms

The blossoms in the image are softly cupped and dimensional. To create them, knit tiny oval petals, gather at the base, and sew two or three petals together into each flower. Use pale lavender, dusty lilac, shell pink, and deeper rosy pink.

1. Knit several tiny petal shapes, each wider at one end and narrower at the base.
2. Steam lightly so the petals curl naturally.
3. Stack or join petals into butterfly-like sweet pea blooms.
4. Sew each bloom only at the base so the upper edges lift away from the dress.

You will need multiple blossoms in different sizes. Place the largest blooms slightly left of center and lower center. Use smaller buds on the outer vines. The effect should feel airy and botanical, not symmetrical or stiff.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are soft Mary Jane slippers in pale pink. They have rounded toes, a low opening, a strap across the instep, and one tiny side button. They sit snugly over the cream feet.

1. Work a sole shape to match the bunny’s foot.
2. Pick up around the sole and knit upward for the shoe sides.
3. Shape a rounded toe cap.
4. Leave an open top with a neat edge.
5. Add a narrow strap attached on one side and buttoned on the other.
6. Sew the shoe onto the foot or make it removable if your fit is very precise.

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The strap in the image is slightly raised and sits across the upper foot rather than high at the ankle. Choose a small pink button to blend softly into the shoe.

Crossbody Garden Pouch

The pouch is a tiny brown hanging pocket suspended from a twisted cord strap. It rests against the bunny’s right side in the image. The top edge is decorated with small pale green leaves, and the front has a white daisy with a yellow center.

1. Knit a small rectangular or slightly rounded pouch body in brown.
2. Fold and seam the sides, or work it as a tiny tube with a flat base.
3. Add a twisted cord or narrow i-cord strap long enough to cross from shoulder to opposite hip.
4. Knit two tiny leaves in pale green and sew them to the upper edge.
5. Make a small daisy with white petals and a yellow center. Sew it to the front.

The pouch should look functional but decorative. You may tuck a tiny scrap of green yarn or a miniature flower into the opening for the same garden mood shown in the image.

Flower Basket

The basket is small, rounded, and lightly bowl shaped with a curved handle. It contains clustered blossoms in soft pastel shades. The basket is held in the bunny’s left paw.

1. Knit or work a tiny round base in brown.
2. Shape upward into a shallow basket cup.
3. Make a handle as a short cord or narrow strip and attach securely.
4. Add tiny blossoms in white, cream, lavender, and pink.
5. Cluster the flowers tightly so they rise above the basket rim.

The basket in the image is not oversized. It looks delicate and hand-carried. Keep the handle slim and the flowers soft, not stiff or overly large.

Frog Friend

The frog is an important part of the scene. It is small, green, slightly wide in the head, and has protruding round eyes placed high on top. The mouth is a straight, mildly serious line, giving the frog a sweet but calm expression.

Frog Body

1. Work the legs first if you prefer separate construction, or shape them from the body base.
2. Create a short torso in green with a slightly rounded tummy.
3. Make short arms and attach them low enough to rest beside the overall bib.
4. Shape the head broad and flat across the top front.

The frog is sitting upright. The arms and legs are small and lightly stuffed. The head is wider than the torso, and the chin line is soft.

Frog Eyes

1. Knit two tiny round eye mounds in green.
2. Attach them high on the head, spaced apart.
3. Insert small dark eyes in the center of each mound.

These eye mounds should project slightly forward. This detail is necessary for the frog to match the image.

Frog Overalls

The frog wears tiny oatmeal-beige overalls or a pinafore-style outfit with shoulder straps and two little buttons. The garment is pale, textured, and sits high on the chest.

1. Work a small bib front.
2. Add a short body section to wrap around the frog’s torso.
3. Create two narrow straps.
4. Sew on two tiny buttons at the upper front.

The frog’s outfit should end above the knees and fit snugly without covering the whole green body.

Watering Can

The watering can is soft green and placed beside the frog. It has a rounded body, a narrow neck, a curved handle, and a spout with a slightly widened end.

1. Knit a small cylinder with rounded lower body.
2. Shape a short neck opening.
3. Add a spout as a narrow tube, slightly bent upward at the end.
4. Add a curved handle on the opposite side.

Stuff very lightly or not at all. The can should hold its shape but still look soft and knitted.

Garden Snips

The tiny garden snips are made in brown and pale gray or silver. They lie in front of the frog and are very small. This is a charming finishing detail that should not be skipped.

1. Knit or embroider two short brown handle pieces.
2. Add crossed pale gray blades at one end.
3. Sew them together flat so they can rest on the display surface.

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Because this piece is miniature, simple construction is enough. The overall silhouette matters more than intricate mechanics.

Assembly

1. Sew the head to the body, checking that the neck stands straight.
2. Attach the ears slightly behind the side face line so they fall naturally from beneath the hat.
3. Sew the arms at the shoulder level, angling them gently downward.
4. Dress the bunny in the peach dress.
5. Put on the shoes and sew them in place if desired.
6. Position the hat over the forehead and ear bases, then tack down invisibly.
7. Add the crossbody pouch from the bunny’s right shoulder to left hip area, or match the exact drape you prefer from the image angle.
8. Sew or tack the basket into the left paw.
9. Place the frog, watering can, and snips as display accessories.

Step back frequently and compare the proportions. The charm of this design comes from the balanced relationship between the large bunny and the tiny garden elements.

Facial Placement for the Bunny

The eyes are small and dark, placed widely apart, and set slightly above the horizontal center of the face. They should look calm and gentle. The nose is stitched in a warm neutral shade and forms a soft triangular base with a vertical split and tiny mouth curve beneath.

• Place the eyes first and check symmetry from several angles.
• Shape the muzzle very lightly before embroidering the nose.
• Keep the mouth small and centered.
• Do not add eyelashes, blush, or extra features if you want to match the image closely.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

The bunny should feel soft, refined, and slightly vintage. Avoid bright colors, thick yarn, oversized flowers, or exaggerated facial features. The image depends on a muted spring palette and smooth toy knitting.

The dress should not be too short. The hat should not be too wide. The ears should be long enough to show clearly under the hat. The frog should be small but noticeable. The accessories must look thoughtfully scaled, not random.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once everything is attached, adjust the ear drape, tilt the hat slightly forward, and smooth the dress so the flower embroidery sits flat. Check that the eyes align evenly and that the nose sits exactly at center. Add tiny shaping stitches only if needed to refine the cheeks or muzzle.

Care Notes

Display the bunny away from strong direct sunlight to protect the pastel colors. If giving it to a child, secure all tiny parts firmly, especially buttons, eyes, and miniature accessories. For display use, the loose accessories may be left separate for styling.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly attached and centered
• Ears evenly placed and hanging softly
• Hat sitting low but not covering the eyes
• Dress centered with neat straps
• Sweet pea blossoms raised and balanced across the skirt
• Shoes matching in size and strap placement
• Pouch strap at the correct length
• Basket secured in the left paw
• Frog, watering can, and snips scaled neatly to the bunny

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak if the item includes stuffed accessories, buttons, or sculpted facial stitches. Reshape while drying and lay flat on a towel. For long-term storage, wrap in clean tissue and keep in a dry box away from moisture, dust, and heat.