Primrose Story Bunny – Knitting

A soft woodland bunny in a primrose dress makes a charming heirloom toy, nursery display, spring shelf accent, or handmade gift for collectors who love knitted animals, cottagecore décor, and artisan stuffed rabbits. This design includes the dressed bunny, beret, shoes, shoulder bag, primrose bouquet, tiny open book, and a small squirrel friend, creating a complete story set with lovely gift appeal for shoppers searching for knitted bunny dolls, handcrafted soft toys, and collectible nursery keepsakes.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a seated long-eared bunny with a rounded head, slim limbs, a cream blouse, a pale primrose pinafore dress, a soft beret with two green leaves, knitted Mary Jane shoes, a brown crossbody satchel, a bouquet of primrose flowers, a tiny open book, and a small squirrel companion in matching clothes.

The finished bunny should look gentle and slightly vintage, with smooth stockinette surfaces, softly stuffed shapes, and delicate raised floral decoration. The overall silhouette is tall and slender, but the head is full and rounded. The dress is loose and lightly gathered below the bib so it drapes in a soft bell shape.

Materials

• Light fingering or light sport weight yarn for the bunny in warm oatmeal beige
• Light fingering or light sport weight yarn in ivory for the blouse collar and sleeves
• Light fingering or light sport weight yarn in pale buttercream for the dress, shoes, and beret
• Small amounts of leaf green, moss green, flower cream, flower yellow, medium brown, gray, and soft pink
• 2.25 mm straight needles or double-pointed needles
• 2.5 mm needles for looser accessories if preferred
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Fine toy stuffing
• Black 6 mm safety eyes or small black beads
• Matching sewing thread for facial shaping if desired
• Very small snap, press stud, or decorative button for the satchel

Gauge and Scale

Gauge is not critical if you are making a display toy, but your fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. Knit firmly. If your stitches appear open, go down a needle size. The bunny in the image appears about 11 to 13 inches tall when standing, with the squirrel at about one-third of the bunny’s height.

The head is slightly wider than the torso. The ears are long, narrow, and relaxed, hanging down to chest level. The arms are thin tubes with only gentle hand shaping. The legs are longer than the arms and extend straight downward when the bunny is seated, with the shoes covering the feet completely.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch by knitting into front and back
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• rep = repeat
• BO = bind off

Notes Before You Begin

The bunny and squirrel are worked mostly flat and seamed for a neat classic toy finish. You may work small pieces in the round if you prefer, but the shaping instructions are written for flat knitting. Seam carefully with mattress stitch wherever possible to keep the toy smooth and polished.

The floral details are not embroidered flat motifs. They are small knitted petals, leaves, and yellow buds sewn in clusters to form raised primrose sprays. This detail is essential to the finished look. Place them generously but neatly, keeping the flowers soft, rounded, and slightly dimensional.

Stuff in small amounts and shape with your fingers as you go. The head should be firm enough to hold its shape. The body should be softer. The limbs should be lightly stuffed, especially near the top, so the bunny keeps a relaxed sitting posture like the image.

Bunny Head

Using oatmeal beige, CO 14 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc across row to last st, K1. 26 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, K1 across to last st. 38 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: K2, inc, K2 across to last 2 sts, K2. 50 sts.
7. Rows 7 to 23: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
8. Row 24: K2, k2tog across. 38 sts.
9. Row 25: Purl.
10. Row 26: K1, k2tog across to last st, K1. 26 sts.
11. Row 27: Purl.
12. Row 28: K2tog across. 13 sts.

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Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, draw up tightly, and fasten. Seam the side. Stuff firmly, shaping a smooth round muzzle area at the lower front. The head should not be a perfect sphere. It should be slightly fuller across the cheeks and slightly flatter at the crown where the beret rests.

Facial Shaping

The muzzle in the image is softly formed rather than sharply protruding. Use matching beige yarn and make a horizontal shaping stitch from one side of the lower face to the other, pulling gently to define the muzzle line. Add a short vertical shaping stitch down the center to suggest the split mouth area.

Place the eyes wide apart and slightly above the muzzle line. They should sit low enough to look sweet and calm, but not so low that the face appears sleepy. The nose is a small brown inverted triangle with a short line extending into a subtle Y shape.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 in oatmeal beige. CO 8 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc, K4, inc, K1. 10 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: Knit.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Rep Rows 4 and 5 until piece measures 4 inches.
7. Next RS row: Ssk, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
8. WS row: Purl.
9. Next RS row: Ssk, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
10. WS row: Purl.
11. Next RS row: Ssk, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.
12. WS row: Purl.
13. Next RS row: K2tog twice. 2 sts.

BO. Make a second ear. Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and seam from tip downward, leaving the lower half more open and soft. Do not overstuff. The ears in the image are flat, floppy, and naturally drooping, with just a little volume near the base.

After sewing the ears to the head, angle them so they fall from beneath the beret instead of sticking outward. They should begin near the upper sides of the head and hang close to the cheeks, with the inner edge slightly visible from the front.

Bunny Body

Using oatmeal beige, CO 16 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc every 2 sts to end. 24 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K2, inc every 3 sts to end. 30 sts.
5. Rows 5 to 19: Work in stockinette.
6. Row 20: K3, k2tog across to last 3 sts, K3. 25 sts.
7. Row 21: Purl.
8. Row 22: K2, k2tog across to last 2 sts, K2. 20 sts.
9. Rows 23 to 27: Work in stockinette.
10. Row 28: K2tog across. 10 sts.

Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, and draw up. Seam side and bottom. Stuff lightly to medium. Shape the lower body into a gentle oval. The upper body should narrow enough that the blouse and pinafore fit smoothly without strain.

Bunny Arms

Make 2 in oatmeal beige. CO 8 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 14: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
2. Row 15: K1, k2tog, K2, ssk, K1. 6 sts.
3. Row 16: Purl.
4. Rows 17 to 24: Work straight.

BO. Seam each arm. Stuff lightly, leaving the top 1 inch almost unstuffed. Curve the lower end gently to form a simple paw shape. Sew to the body slightly below the neck join so the sleeves can sit over them naturally.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in oatmeal beige. CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 22: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
2. Row 23: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
3. Row 24: Purl.
4. Row 25: Knit.
5. Row 26: Purl.
6. Row 27: K2tog, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
7. Row 28: Purl.

BO. Seam and stuff lightly to medium, keeping the ankle area neat and narrow. Sew to the lower body so they hang straight when the bunny is seated. The legs should be close together but not joined.

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Ivory Blouse

The blouse is a separate upper garment with puffed sleeves and a small rounded collar. It should look soft, clean, and slightly fitted under the pinafore bib.

Blouse Front

Using ivory, CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: K1, P1 rib.
2. Rows 5 to 16: Work in stockinette.
3. Row 17: K6, BO 8, K6.
4. Next row: P6, CO 8 over bound-off sts, P6.
5. Rows 19 to 24: Work in stockinette.
6. Row 25: K6, k2tog, K4, ssk, K6. 18 sts.
7. WS row: Purl.
8. Row 27: K5, k2tog, K4, ssk, K5. 16 sts.
9. WS row: Purl.
10. BO loosely.

Blouse Back

Work as front without the neck opening detail. CO 20 sts, work 4 rows rib, then 20 rows stockinette, shape neck on final 4 rows as for front, and BO.

Sleeves

Make 2 in ivory. CO 16 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 3: K1, P1 rib.
2. Row 4: Knit, increasing evenly to 22 sts.
3. Rows 5 to 12: Work in stockinette.
4. Row 13: K2tog across. 11 sts.
5. Row 14: Purl.

BO. Seam sleeves and attach to blouse. The sleeves should look puffed at the top and softly rounded, not narrow tubes. Keep the shoulder line smooth so the pinafore straps can sit flat over it.

Collar

Using ivory, pick up 28 to 32 sts around the neckline or make separately as a narrow curved strip. Work 4 rows in garter stitch. On the final row, increase slightly at the front corners to help the collar spread. Sew in place so the collar forms two small rounded lobes at the front.

The collar is an important visual detail in the image. It should peek above the pinafore bib in a crisp but soft line. Avoid making it too large. It should frame the face delicately without covering the shoulders.

Primrose Pinafore Dress

The dress is the focus of the outfit. It has a plain bib front, narrow straps, a high waistline, a softly gathered skirt, and raised primrose flower clusters on the bib and skirt front. Use pale buttercream yarn.

Dress Skirt

CO 56 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: Garter stitch.
2. Row 7: Knit.
3. Row 8: Purl.
4. Continue in stockinette until piece measures 3.25 inches from cast-on edge.
5. Next RS row: K2, k2tog across to last 2 sts, K2. Reduce evenly to 40 sts.
6. WS row: Purl.
7. Work 4 more rows stockinette.

Dress Bib Front

On the next RS row, work 8 sts, BO 24 sts, work final 8 sts. These side sections form the strap beginnings. Work each strap section separately for 10 rows in stockinette. Then CO 10 sts between them and continue across all stitches as one piece to create the bib top.

Work 8 more rows in stockinette. BO loosely. The dress front should have a small square bib centered on the chest, with narrow shoulder straps. The bib top should sit just below the ivory collar and should not rise too close to the neck.

Dress Back

Make a simple back panel to match the skirt width at the waist but slightly lower than the front bib. CO 40 sts, work 4 rows stockinette, then divide for opening if desired. Finish with two straps to meet the front, or sew the dress permanently onto the bunny if you prefer a fixed outfit.

For the closest visual match, the dress should appear smooth at the bib and lightly loose at the skirt. Keep the fabric soft and flowing rather than stiff. The hem should curve gently outward when placed on the seated bunny.

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Primrose Flower Embellishments

The flower clusters appear in three main places on the bunny dress: one cluster centered on the bib, one cluster near the lower left front of the skirt, and one near the lower right front. Each cluster combines cream primrose blossoms, green leaves, and tiny yellow buds.

Small Primrose Petals

Make many in cream. CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: Knit.
2. Row 2: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: Ssk, K1, k2tog. 3 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: K3tog.

Fasten off. Each flower needs 5 petals. Sew the petals in a rounded star arrangement with a tiny yellow knot or French-knot style center if desired. Keep each flower small. The flowers in the image are delicate, not oversized.

Leaves

Make leaves in two greens for depth. CO 3 sts.

1. Row 1: Knit.
2. Row 2: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, inc, K1, inc, K1. 7 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: Ssk, K3, k2tog. 5 sts.
7. Row 7: Purl.
8. Row 8: Ssk, K1, k2tog. 3 sts.
9. Row 9: Purl.
10. Row 10: K3tog.

Make leaves in pairs and singles. Vein lines may be added with a light running stitch in matching green, but keep the effect subtle. The leaves should point outward from the flower clusters and help fill the composition without making it heavy.

Yellow Buds

For each bud, wind yellow yarn three or four times around the needle tip, secure with a tiny stitch, and trim neatly. You can also knit tiny bobbles if preferred. Add several buds around the flower clusters to match the image, especially beneath the bib flowers and at the skirt sprays.

Arrange each floral spray before sewing. The bib cluster should be balanced and symmetrical enough to look tidy. The two lower skirt clusters can angle outward slightly, with leaf tips pointing diagonally. This placement gives the dress a natural decorative flow.

Beret

The beret is pale buttercream and slightly slouchy, with a narrow ribbed brim and two small green leaves at the top center. It should sit low over the forehead and hide the top of the ear attachments.

Using pale buttercream, CO 48 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 6: K1, P1 rib.
2. Row 7: Knit, increasing evenly to 64 sts.
3. Rows 8 to 20: Work in stockinette.
4. Row 21: K6, k2tog across. 56 sts.
5. WS row: Purl.
6. Next RS row: K5, k2tog across. 48 sts.
7. WS row: Purl.
8. Next RS row: K4, k2tog across. 40 sts.
9. WS row: Purl.
10. Next RS row: K3, k2tog across. 32 sts.
11. WS row: Purl.
12. Next RS row: K2, k2tog across. 24 sts.
13. WS row: Purl.
14. Next RS row: K2tog across. 12 sts.

Thread yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight, and seam. Shape the beret gently by hand. It should look puffy at the crown and snug at the brim. Sew lightly to the head if you want it fixed in place.

Beret Leaves

Make 2 in soft green using the leaf pattern above, but slightly smaller by stopping after 5 stitches at the widest point. Sew them together at the base and attach to the crown center. They should point outward like a tiny sprout.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are pale buttercream and soft, rounded, and simple. Each shoe has a small strap across the front and a neat opening at the top.

Make 2. CO 12 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Garter stitch.
2. Rows 5 to 10: Work in stockinette.
3. Row 11: K4, BO 4, K4.
4. Row 12: P4, CO 4, P4.
5. Rows 13 to 16: Work in stockinette.
6. Row 17: K2tog across. 8 sts.
7. Row 18: Purl.

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BO. Seam to form a small slipper shape. Add a narrow strap across the instep with a tiny stitched button detail at the outer side. Sew shoes onto the feet neatly so the opening stays centered on the front.

Shoulder Satchel

The satchel is a very small brown flap bag with a long strap crossing the bunny from shoulder to hip. It sits on the bunny’s left side in the image and is softly rounded at the bottom.

Using medium brown, CO 10 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 12: Work in stockinette.
2. Rows 13 to 16: Garter stitch for flap.
3. Row 17: K2tog, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
4. Row 18: Knit.

BO. Fold lower stockinette portion upward and seam sides. Add a tiny flap point if desired with one extra centered stitch. Crochet or knit an I-cord strap about 8 inches long. Sew securely so it crosses diagonally from the bunny’s right shoulder to left hip.

Add a tiny snap, bead, or stitched knot to suggest the flap closure. Keep the satchel narrow and soft. It should not overpower the dress or cover the floral motifs too heavily.

Primrose Bouquet

The bouquet includes green stems tied with pale yarn and several cream primrose blossoms with yellow centers. It rests beside the bunny and helps complete the story scene.

Make 5 to 7 small flowers using the primrose petal pattern. Sew each flower to a twisted green cord stem. Add a couple of leaflets to some stems. Gather all stems together and bind near the base with pale cream yarn, leaving the flower heads clustered at the top.

The bouquet should be slightly loose and natural rather than perfectly symmetrical. Let one or two stems extend farther than the others. The blossoms should face different directions for a fresh hand-picked look.

Tiny Open Book

The open book in the image is small, neutral, and softly folded. It looks like a miniature knitted accessory with visible open pages. Use ivory or parchment yarn.

CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 10: Garter stitch.
2. BO.

Fold the rectangle in half like a closed booklet, then open it again. With matching thread, lightly pinch and stitch the center fold so two page sections form. Add a slightly darker stitch line at the middle for the spine. Very small running stitches can suggest printed lines on the pages.

Squirrel Friend

The squirrel is tiny, gray, and plump compared with the bunny. It wears a moss green dress or tunic, a white collar, and a matching green beret. The tail is large and curved upward behind the body.

Squirrel Head

Using gray, CO 10 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc across. 18 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K2, inc every 2 sts. 26 sts.
5. Rows 5 to 13: Work in stockinette.
6. Row 14: K2, k2tog across. 20 sts.
7. Row 15: Purl.
8. Row 16: K1, k2tog across to last st, K1. 14 sts.
9. Row 17: Purl.
10. Row 18: K2tog across. 7 sts.

Draw up and seam. Stuff firmly. Add tiny black eyes and a very small nose. The face is simple and sweet, with a short muzzle.

Squirrel Body

Using gray, CO 12 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: K1, inc every 2 sts. 18 sts.
3. Rows 3 to 12: Work in stockinette.
4. Row 13: K2, k2tog across. 14 sts.
5. Row 14: Purl.
6. Row 15: K2tog across. 7 sts.

Draw up, seam, and stuff lightly. Sew to head.

Squirrel Arms and Legs

Make 2 arms by CO 5 sts and working 10 rows stockinette. Make 2 legs by CO 6 sts and working 12 rows stockinette. Seam and stuff minimally. Attach close to the body.

Squirrel Tail

CO 8 sts in gray.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Stockinette.
2. Row 5: K1, inc every 2 sts. 12 sts.
3. Rows 6 to 16: Stockinette.
4. Row 17: Ssk, K8, k2tog. 10 sts.
5. Row 18: Purl.
6. Row 19: Ssk, K6, k2tog. 8 sts.
7. Row 20: Purl.
8. Row 21: K2tog, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
9. Row 22: Purl.
10. Row 23: K2tog, K2, k2tog. 4 sts.

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BO. Make 2 pieces, seam around the edge, and stuff very lightly. Curve the tail upward and sew to the back of the squirrel. It should rise behind the beret and create the classic squirrel silhouette from the image.

Squirrel Outfit

For the green tunic, CO 18 sts in moss green. Work 4 rows garter, then 12 rows stockinette. Reduce to 14 sts at the waist, then work 6 more rows. BO. Seam into a small tube and fit over the body. Add a tiny white garter collar around the neckline.

For the squirrel beret, CO 20 sts in green. Work 4 rows rib, increase to 28 sts, work 6 rows stockinette, then decrease evenly over the next 4 RS rows until 8 sts remain. Draw up. Add a tiny top point or leave plain. The beret should sit slightly tilted.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the bunny head, body, arms, legs, and ears.
2. Shape the face before attaching the beret.
3. Sew head to body securely.
4. Attach arms and legs in seated alignment.
5. Make and fit the blouse.
6. Make and fit the pinafore dress.
7. Sew floral clusters onto the dress.
8. Add shoes.
9. Add the satchel.
10. Add the beret and leaves.
11. Make the bouquet and book.
12. Make and dress the squirrel.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Place the ears first, then fit the beret low enough to hide their upper joins. Check that both eyes sit level and that the nose remains centered. The mouth should be soft and small, with a calm expression. A tiny blush of pale pink yarn inside the ear line may be added very lightly if desired.

Dress the bunny before fixing the satchel. Let the pinafore skirt spread naturally over the seated body. Sew the floral sprays only after the dress is on the bunny so you can confirm the exact placement and spacing from the photo.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong sunlight
• Handle floral details gently
• Avoid rough brushing on the dress embellishments
• Keep tiny accessories away from very young children
• Store flat or seated to protect the face and ears

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Beret sits low and slightly rounded
• Two green leaves are attached at the crown
• Ivory collar shows above the bib
• Three primrose clusters are sewn to the dress front
• Shoes are matched and centered
• Brown satchel crosses from shoulder to hip
• Bouquet, book, and squirrel are complete
• Face looks balanced and gentle from the front

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, remove dust with clean dry hands or a very soft brush used lightly. Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Do not soak the toy, bouquet, or squirrel, because stuffing and shaped details may distort.

If deeper cleaning is necessary, test on a hidden area first. Blot rather than rub. Reshape while damp and dry flat on a towel away from direct heat. Store in breathable cotton, never sealed plastic, and keep moth protection nearby if the yarn contains wool.