Mimosa Honey Bunny – Knitting

Mimosa Honey Bunny is a warm and charming knitted bunny with a soft country look, tiny floral details, and sweet honey-colored accessories. This design creates a beautiful handmade knit bunny doll that fits perfectly as nursery decor, a baby shower gift, spring table decor, or a collectible stuffed animal for display. The outfit, bouquet, little bee friend, beret, shoes, and small bag all work together to give the finished piece a polished boutique feel. The colors are gentle, the shapes are simple to follow, and the finished bunny has the look of a premium heirloom toy.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern includes the main bunny, beret, short-sleeved top, dress with mimosa flower motifs, shoes, mini backpack, mimosa bouquet, tiny bee doll, and the small cream mat with bow detail. Every piece is shaped to match the image closely, with soft proportions and clean finishing.

The bunny has a rounded head, a gentle tapered muzzle, long flat ears, a simple embroidered nose and mouth, straight hanging legs, softly rounded arms, and a seated body proportion. The clothing is neat and fitted, not oversized, so the final silhouette stays close to the photo.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport weight wool or wool blend in warm ivory
• Dress yarn: ivory for dress body, honey mustard for hem edging
• Top yarn: honey mustard
• Beret yarn: honey mustard
• Shoe yarn: light caramel or pale tan
• Mini backpack yarn: golden mustard
• Bee yarn: beige, dark brown, black, yellow-green, and a little cream
• Flower embroidery or knit detail yarn: mimosa yellow and leaf green
• Needles: a size suitable for tight toy knitting, usually 2.25 mm to 3 mm depending on yarn
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop needles for small circumferences
• Tapestry needle
• Stuffing
• Small black beads or black embroidery yarn for eyes
• Tiny buttons: two for the dress straps, two tiny buttons for the shoes if desired, one tiny button for the backpack flap if desired
• Fine sewing thread matching yarn shades
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not absolutely critical for toys, but consistency matters. Knit tightly so stuffing does not show through. If your stitches are loose, go down a needle size. The fabric in the image looks smooth, dense, and even.

The finished bunny should sit at approximately 11 to 13 inches tall from the top of the head to the bottoms of the feet, not including the beret stem. The tiny bee should be about one quarter of the bunny’s seated height. The backpack should reach roughly from the bunny’s elbow to mid-thigh.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• Inc = increase
• Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit
• Rep = repeat
• Rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Notes Before You Begin

• Knit the bunny pieces firmly and stuff gradually.
• The face should stay simple and soft. Do not over-shape the muzzle.
• The ears are long, narrow, and floppy, with only light stuffing or no stuffing.
• The dress is the visual centerpiece, so keep the skirt even and place the yellow flower motifs neatly.
• The top is separate under the pinafore-style dress.
• The bee is small and slightly rustic, matching the handmade look of the main doll.

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

Using warm ivory, CO 12 sts. Join carefully for working in the round, or work flat and seam later if preferred. The legs in the image are straight and softly tubular, with only a slight widening near the upper thigh.

1. Work 6 rnds in K.
2. Rnd 7: Kfb at the first stitch, K to last stitch, Kfb at last stitch. You now have 14 sts.
3. Work 18 to 22 rnds even in K, depending on desired length.
4. Add small amounts of stuffing as you go, keeping the leg firm but not hard.
5. Shape upper edge very lightly with one decrease round if needed so the leg joins neatly to the body.

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Make the second leg the same. Set both aside.

Body

The body is softly rounded and slightly pear-shaped, but not wide. It sits naturally beneath the dress and keeps the bunny stable in a seated pose. Join both legs onto one needle to begin the lower body.

1. Place both legs on one needle with 4 to 6 sts cast on between them at the center front and center back.
2. Work 2 rnds even.
3. Increase gradually over the next 4 to 6 rnds until the body reaches a comfortable rounded width.
4. Work even for several rounds to build the lower belly area.
5. Stuff the lower body as you work.
6. Decrease gently through the waist so the dress can sit smoothly over the torso.
7. Work the upper body slightly narrower than the lower body.

A good target is a body that feels softly egg-shaped, with a clear waist but no sharp narrowing. The bunny in the image has a slim and elegant torso, so avoid making the body too round.

When the body reaches the underarm area, set aside stitches for each armhole or continue upward and attach arms later, depending on your preferred construction. Leave a long tail if you will sew the head on separately.

Arms Make 2

The arms are narrow, softly stuffed, and relaxed at the sides. They are not bent dramatically. The lower arms taper slightly, and the upper arm is only a little fuller.

1. Using warm ivory, CO 10 sts and join for small-round knitting, or work flat for seaming.
2. Work 5 rnds even.
3. Increase 2 sts evenly across the next rnd.
4. Work 14 to 18 rnds even.
5. Stuff very lightly. Keep the arms flexible.
6. Flatten the top and close with three-needle bind off or gather closed for sewing.

Make both arms identical. Set aside.

Head

The head is the largest part of the bunny and is almost round, with a very gentle narrowing toward the chin. The face in the image is smooth, clean, and calm, with tiny dark eyes spaced wide apart and a centered stitched nose.

1. Using warm ivory, CO a small number of sts and distribute across needles.
2. Increase evenly every other rnd until you reach a broad rounded head circumference.
3. Work even for enough rounds to build the face height and back-of-head depth.
4. Mark eye placement while the head is still open.
5. Insert stuffing gradually, shaping the forehead and cheeks smoothly.
6. Decrease evenly toward the top opening.
7. Finish closing the crown securely.

Shape the lower face with only the lightest needle sculpting if you want a more defined muzzle. The photo shows a delicate central muzzle line, not a protruding snout, so keep this subtle. The face should read as soft and minimal.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and relaxed. They hang from the sides of the head and fall below the jaw. They are slightly wider at the base and gently tapered toward rounded ends.

1. Using warm ivory, CO 8 sts.
2. Work flat in stockinette, slipping the first stitch of each row for neat edges if desired.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each side every 4th row until the ear reaches its widest point.
4. Work even through the middle section.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each side every 4th row to create a soft taper.
6. Finish with a rounded tip by decreasing more frequently over the last rows.

Do not stuff, or add only a whisper of stuffing near the base. Fold the top edge slightly when attaching so the ears angle downward naturally. They should frame the face under the beret.

Facial Features

The bunny’s face is very simple, which is important for the gentle look. Place the eyes low enough to feel sweet, but not so low that the face looks sad. The eyes should sit on either side of the center line, with enough distance between them to match the broad calm expression in the image.

• Eyes: use small black beads or French knots
• Nose: embroider a tiny vertical satin-stitched triangle or narrow oval in matching brown or deep taupe
• Mouth: add a short downward split stitch below the nose and a soft Y-shape or tiny curved line

Keep all facial embroidery restrained. The charm of this piece comes from delicate expression, not heavy detailing.

Assembly of Bunny Base

1. Sew the head firmly to the body, making sure the chin sits centered over the chest.
2. Attach the ears to the upper sides of the head so they fall symmetrically.
3. Sew the arms to the body just below the neckline area.
4. Check the seated balance before weaving in all tails.
5. Add extra stuffing through any small opening if the body needs better support.

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Honey Mustard Top

The top is a short-sleeved knitted shirt in a warm honey shade. It fits close to the body and sits under the dress. The sleeves are small and rounded, ending above the elbow. The neck is plain and soft, without a collar.

1. Using honey mustard yarn, CO enough sts for the neck opening.
2. Work a few rounds in 1×1 rib for a tidy neckline.
3. Increase evenly to shape a small yoke.
4. Separate for sleeves and body.
5. Work the body straight to the waist, ending just below the dress bib line.
6. Pick up sleeve sts and work each sleeve in the round for a short length.
7. Finish sleeve edges neatly without flaring.

The shirt should fit snugly, so the dress can sit smoothly over it. Avoid bulky seams. The color should be rich but muted, similar to golden honey.

Pinafore Dress with Mimosa Motifs

The dress is ivory with a warm mustard lower edging and two narrow shoulder straps buttoned at the bib. The skirt falls over the bunny’s lap in a gentle bell shape. Across the skirt are repeated mimosa flower motifs with tiny yellow clustered blooms and green stems or leaves.

Dress Bib and Upper Front

1. Using ivory yarn, CO sts for the bib width.
2. Work flat in stockinette for a short rectangle that covers the chest.
3. Create two narrow straps at the upper corners.
4. Work each strap separately until it reaches over the shoulder comfortably.
5. Bind off and set aside.

The bib should look neat and centered, not too wide. In the image, the bib covers the upper chest but still allows the mustard top to show at the neckline and sleeves.

Dress Skirt

1. Pick up or CO sts for the waist section of the skirt.
2. Work a few rows even.
3. Increase gradually to create a modest A-line shape.
4. Continue until the skirt reaches just above the ankle area when the bunny is seated.
5. Change to honey mustard for the lower border.
6. Work several rounds or rows in a textured edge or simple garter border for a thicker hem finish.

The hem in the image is clearly defined and slightly weighty, helping the skirt sit nicely. A garter or folded hem effect works well here. Keep the flare controlled. The dress is sweet and full, but not dramatic.

Mimosa Flower Motifs

The skirt displays many small flower groupings arranged in tidy rows. Each motif has a yellow blossom head and a green stem base. The yellow flowers read like small clustered pom-poms. To match this look in knitting, the most practical method is to embroider the motifs after the dress is finished.

1. Plan the flower placement before stitching.
2. Begin near the upper skirt and space motifs evenly in staggered rows.
3. Use French knots, wrapped knots, or tiny bullion-style clusters in yellow to create rounded flower tops.
4. Stitch short green stems beneath each flower cluster.
5. Add one or two tiny leaf stitches at the base when needed.

Place enough motifs to make the skirt feel richly decorated, but leave a little open space between them. The image shows the flowers distributed across most of the front skirt, with a balanced repeating arrangement. Keep the motifs small so the dress still looks refined.

Dress Back and Buttons

At the back, the straps fasten with tiny buttons. You may sew the dress partly closed and use real buttons as decoration, or make functional buttonholes if you prefer removable clothing.

• Button color: light wood or beige
• Strap width: narrow and delicate
• Placement: aligned and symmetrical

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and slightly slouchy, in the same honey mustard shade as the top. It sits low on the forehead and angles gently to one side. A tiny stem or nub at the center top completes the look.

1. CO sts for the headband and work in 1×1 rib until it fits around the upper head comfortably.
2. Join into a ring if working from the brim upward.
3. Increase generously over the next round to create the full beret body.
4. Work several rounds even to build the soft puff.
5. Begin decreasing evenly to draw the top inward.
6. Finish with a tiny i-cord stem or small gathered top knot.

The brim should hug the head lightly. The beret in the image is not stiff. It has a gentle relaxed fall, so do not over-tighten the upper shaping.

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Shoes

The shoes are pale tan Mary Jane style slippers with a neat opening at the top and tied bows across the front. They fit over the bunny’s feet and look soft rather than structured. The front is rounded, and the shoe opening reveals a slim oval of the ivory leg.

1. Using pale tan yarn, pick up around the foot area or knit the shoes separately.
2. Create a rounded toe with short rows or gradual decreases.
3. Shape the top opening so a small central cutout remains visible.
4. Work a snug edge around the opening.
5. Make a thin cord or twisted tie for each shoe.
6. Tie into a tiny bow at the front ankle area.

Keep the shoes smooth and proportional. They should be slightly wider than the ankle but not oversized. The bow detail is important because it softens the whole look.

Mini Backpack

The small backpack is mustard colored and sits beside the bunny. It has a rounded rectangular shape, a flap, tiny closure detail, and narrow straps. It should look like a miniature field bag with a soft handmade finish.

1. Using golden mustard yarn, knit a flat rectangle for the body.
2. Fold it into a pouch shape and seam the sides.
3. Knit a smaller rounded flap and sew it to the upper back edge.
4. Create a tiny front tab or loop closure.
5. Knit or crochet narrow cords for straps and a top handle.

The bag should hold its shape lightly. You may line it with fabric or add a little interfacing if you want a firmer look, but a soft knitted structure also matches the image nicely.

Mimosa Bouquet

The bouquet is made of clustered yellow mimosa blooms with green stems and leaves. It rests in the bunny’s hand and adds a bright spring accent. The flower heads should look tiny and rounded, grouped along slender stems.

1. Make several thin green stems using i-cord, twisted yarn, or wrapped floral wire covered with yarn.
2. Add small yellow pom-poms, French-knot clusters, or wrapped bobble-like forms along the upper portions of the stems.
3. Make two or three knitted leaves in green using a tiny flat leaf shape.
4. Gather all stems together and wrap the base neatly.

The bouquet should be narrow enough to fit naturally into the bunny’s arm, but full enough to read clearly in photos. Keep the stems longer than the flower heads so the bouquet has an airy vertical line.

Tiny Bee Friend

The bee companion is a tiny knitted doll with a brown head and limbs, a cream-and-black striped body outfit, and a green cap topped with little black antennae. Its expression is simple, matching the soft style of the bunny.

Bee Head

1. Using medium brown yarn, knit a small round head.
2. Stuff lightly so it stays firm but not hard.
3. Add tiny dark eyes and a very small stitched nose and mouth.

Bee Body

1. Using cream yarn, begin the lower body.
2. Add narrow black stripes across the middle rounds.
3. Shape the torso so it is slightly tapered toward the neck.
4. Stuff lightly.

The stripes should be clearly visible but thin. In the image, the body reads more like a striped little dress than a natural insect abdomen, which adds to the toy-like charm.

Bee Arms and Legs

1. Knit four tiny tubes in brown.
2. Stuff minimally or leave unstuffed.
3. Sew arms at the upper sides and legs at the lower body.

Bee Cap and Antennae

1. Using yellow-green yarn, knit a tiny rounded cap.
2. Create a slight brim if desired.
3. Add two short black antennae using cord, embroidery, or tightly twisted yarn.

The bee should sit beside the bunny and reach approximately knee height. Keep the body charming and small, with a hand-finished look rather than a perfectly realistic insect shape.

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Mini Cream Mat with Bow

The small cream piece under the bee looks like a little mat or folded cloth. It is rectangular, soft, and edged simply, with a mustard or tan bow stitched near one corner. This is a tiny detail, but it helps complete the scene.

1. Using cream yarn, CO a small number of sts.
2. Work in garter stitch until you have a neat rectangle.
3. Bind off loosely.
4. Make a thin cord bow in tan or honey yarn and sew it near one corner.

This piece should stay understated. It is an accent, not the focal point.

Color Placement Guide

• Ivory: bunny head, body, legs, arms, ears, dress body, mini mat
• Honey mustard: top, beret, dress hem
• Pale tan: shoes
• Golden mustard: backpack, bouquet blooms, dress flower embroidery
• Leaf green: bouquet leaves, dress stems, bee cap
• Brown and black: bee details, bunny facial embroidery if preferred

Styling Tips for the Closest Match

Once assembled, pose the bunny in a seated position with both legs hanging straight and close together. Let the ears fall naturally outside the beret. Tilt the beret slightly. Position one arm around the bouquet and rest the bee beside the bunny at the hem of the dress.

Steam very lightly if needed, but do not flatten the knitted texture. Shape the dress skirt with your hands so the flower motifs face forward. Tie the shoe bows neatly and keep the backpack upright with the flap visible.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

• Sew all main parts securely before dressing the bunny.
• Dress the bunny in the mustard top first, then attach or fasten the dress.
• Add the beret last so you can adjust ear placement.
• Check that both eyes sit evenly and the nose stays centered.
• Use a tiny amount of extra stuffing in the cheeks if the face looks flat.
• Secure every decorative item well if the toy is meant for display handling.

Care Notes

• Hand wash gently in cool water only if needed.
• Do not wring the toy.
• Reshape while damp and dry flat on a towel.
• Keep embellished flower knots and tiny accessories from snagging.
• For display pieces, light surface cleaning is usually enough.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered on body
• Ears matched in length and angle
• Face soft and symmetrical
• Top fitted smoothly under dress
• Dress hem even
• Flower motifs balanced across skirt
• Beret gently slouched
• Shoe bows neat
• Backpack flap visible
• Bee proportionate to bunny
• Bouquet secure and tidy

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For best long-term results, store the bunny away from direct sunlight so the ivory and mustard shades stay soft and even. Keep it in a dry space with good airflow. If dust appears, use a clean soft brush or a lint-free cloth to remove it gently.

If deeper cleaning is necessary, spot clean first. For a full wash, use cool water and mild wool-safe soap. Support the toy with both hands while lifting it from the water. Press out moisture with a towel, reshape the head, ears, dress, and beret, then dry flat.

Small accessories such as the bouquet, backpack, and bee can be cleaned separately. Avoid aggressive rubbing on the embroidered mimosa flowers, because those tiny knots and stitches look best when left rounded and full.

Closing Notes

Mimosa Honey Bunny is all about quiet charm, soft colors, and thoughtful detail. The beauty of this piece comes from the harmony between the bunny, the dress motifs, the bouquet, and the tiny companion pieces. Take your time with the finishing, because those careful final touches are what bring the whole character to life.

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