A soft knitted bunny dressed in lavender tones makes a beautiful handmade bunny doll for spring displays, nursery decor, Easter baskets, baby gifts, and collectible shelf styling. This design features a floppy-eared rabbit in a striped top, scalloped bonnet, flower-covered skirt, Mary Jane shoes, and tiny companion accessories. The finished set has the sweet look people often search for when shopping for a knitted rabbit doll, heirloom stuffed bunny, or handmade spring gift. Every piece is written to match the photo as closely as possible, with special attention to shape, color placement, and the charming little details that make the whole set feel complete.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
Choose smooth DK yarn or light worsted yarn with clear stitch definition. The toy in the image looks firm and neat, so avoid fuzzy yarn. Cotton, cotton blends, or smooth wool blends work well. Use one main neutral for the bunny and several pastel shades for the clothing and flowers.
- Main bunny color: warm beige
- Bonnet and trim color: dusty pink
- Top stripes: lavender, pale cream, and soft lilac
- Skirt base: dusty pink and beige for hem and straps
- Flower colors: white, blush pink, pale pink, lavender, medium purple, and deep violet
- Leaves and stems: sage green and deeper leaf green
- Shoes: soft lavender
- Duckling: buttery yellow, pale cream, orange, and dusty pink
- Basket and bag: tan, beige, brown, lavender, and tiny touches of green and pink
Use needles one size smaller than the yarn ball band suggests so the fabric stays dense and stuffing does not show through. For most knitters, a 2.75 mm to 3.25 mm needle range works well for the bunny and accessories.
- Needles: double-pointed needles or magic loop for small pieces, plus straight or circular needles for flat sections
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Toy stuffing
- Small black safety eyes or black beads
- Strong sewing thread for secure facial shaping if needed
- Thin craft wire optional for bouquet stems only
Finished Size
The seated bunny in the image looks about 11 to 13 inches tall from the top of the bonnet to the base of the feet. The body is slim and long, with a large rounded head, very narrow shoulders, dangling legs, and softly flattened floppy ears.
The duckling is small, around 3 to 4 inches tall. The side bag is petite and boxy. The basket is shallow and oval. The hand bouquet and basket bouquet should look full but still delicate beside the bunny.
Gauge and Style Notes
Exact gauge is less important than proportion. Focus on keeping the bunny’s head large, the torso small, and the flower skirt wide at the lower edge. Knit tightly. Stuff the limbs firmly but not rock hard. The head should be smooth and rounded without corners.
The flower work on the skirt should look raised and clustered. You may knit tiny bobble blossoms separately and sew them on, or shape miniature floral units in soft loops. The surface needs visible depth so the skirt feels lush and bouquet-like rather than flat.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- inc = increase
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- BO = bind off
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Bunny Construction Overview
The bunny is made from separate pieces: head, body, arms, legs, ears, bonnet, striped top section, skirt with straps, shoes, and all accessory pieces. The head and body may be worked separately and sewn together, which gives better control over the proportions seen in the picture.
Do not shorten the limbs. The image shows long legs hanging freely over the picnic bench, with the feet pointing slightly forward. The arms are slim, lightly bent, and long enough to rest beside the skirt without reaching below the hem.
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Head
Using warm beige, begin at the top of the head. Work in the round.
- CO 8 sts and distribute evenly.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: Inc in each stitch. 16 sts.
- Round 3: Knit.
- Round 4: K1, inc around. 24 sts.
- Round 5: Knit.
- Round 6: K2, inc around. 32 sts.
- Round 7: Knit.
- Round 8: K3, inc around. 40 sts.
- Round 9: Knit.
- Round 10: K4, inc around. 48 sts.
Knit even for enough rounds to create a smooth round ball. The head in the image is not tall like an egg. It is almost circular from the front, with a gentle taper only near the lower face. Usually 18 to 22 plain rounds after the last increase will create the right fullness.
Insert eyes before closing. Place them low on the face, not high on the forehead. They should sit fairly wide apart, roughly centered horizontally, with enough room for the embroidered nose between them. The expression is calm and sweet, not cartoonish.
To shape the lower face, work a decrease round of K4, k2tog around. Knit 1 round plain. Then work K3, k2tog around. Continue stuffing firmly, especially the cheeks and forehead, while leaving the muzzle area slightly softer so the embroidery can settle nicely.
Work K2, k2tog around, then a plain round. Work K1, k2tog around. Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, and close. Do not flatten the bottom too much. The head should sit on the neck with a soft rounded underside.
Facial Shaping
The nose and mouth in the image are embroidered with dark brown or black thread in a small centered Y-shape. First mark the center line of the face. Create a tiny triangular nose with two angled stitches meeting at the top and one point at the bottom.
From the lower point of the nose, work a short vertical line down. Then split into two short outward mouth lines. Keep them tiny. The mouth is delicate and close to the nose. Do not make a large smile. Add very light sculpting with thread around the eye area only if needed.
Body
The body is narrow and slightly pear-shaped, but much slimmer than the head. Using warm beige, CO 16 sts and join in the round.
- Round 1: Knit.
- Round 2: K1, inc around. 24 sts.
- Rounds 3 to 6: Knit.
- Round 7: K3, inc around. 30 sts.
- Rounds 8 to 16: Knit.
The torso should be short. It only needs enough length to support the striped top and skirt. After the widest point, begin gentle decreases. Work one decrease round spaced evenly to 26 sts, knit 3 rounds, then decrease to 22 sts, knit 2 rounds.
Stuff the body firmly at the base and lightly at the upper chest. The photo shows a soft doll body, not a chunky plush cylinder. Finish with a short neck section by knitting 4 to 6 rounds even on 18 to 20 sts. Bind off with a long tail for sewing to the head.
Legs
Make 2 in warm beige. Start at the upper thigh so you can sew the legs to the lower body at a slight forward angle. CO 12 sts and work in the round. Knit for several rounds, then increase once or twice if needed to reach a smooth narrow tube.
The legs in the image are long and even in width, with only a subtle widening near the upper thigh. Knit until each leg is long enough to hang below the skirt and bench edge. A finished leg length of about 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches usually works well.
Stuff firmly but allow a little softness near the top so the legs can bend when seated. Leave the lower end open for attaching the shoes, or shape the foot first and then add removable-looking shoe covers sewn in place.
Shoes
The shoes are classic Mary Jane style in soft lavender. They have rounded toes, a neat sole line, and a narrow strap over the top. Make 2.
For each shoe, pick up or transfer the leg stitches, then increase around the front half over 2 rounds to create the toe box. Knit a few plain rounds. For the sole shaping, work short rows or paired decreases at each side so the foot curves forward and slightly under.
Stuff the toe lightly so it keeps its shape. Close the sole neatly. Then add the strap separately. CO a short narrow strip, about 3 to 5 stitches wide, and knit to fit across the upper foot. Sew both ends at the sides so the strap lies flat and centered.
The shoes in the image do not look bulky. Keep the strap slim and the top opening smooth. A tiny edge of beige ankle above the shoe can still remain visible, which helps match the photograph.
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Arms
Make 2 in warm beige. CO 10 sts and work in the round. Knit straight for most of the arm length. The arms are slim and simple, with no paw shaping. They end in soft rounded tips. The total arm length should reach from shoulder to just above the skirt hem.
Stuff lightly. The arms should not be stiff. Decrease slightly near the wrist if desired, but keep the shape smooth. Gather the hand end closed. Leave the upper end open for sewing to the body after the clothing layers are complete.
Ears
Make 2 in warm beige, worked flat. The ears are long, narrow, and floppy, with a rounded tip and very gentle taper toward the base. CO 10 sts.
- Row 1: Knit.
- Row 2: Purl.
- Continue in stockinette for several rows.
- Increase 1 stitch at each side every 6th row twice.
- Knit even through the middle section.
- Decrease 1 stitch at each side every 4th row near the tip until rounded.
Make a second matching piece for each ear if you want a lined ear, or leave as a single layer with neat edges. Lightly steam or block so the ears lie flat. Sew the ears to the head slightly below the crown line so they fall downward beside the face.
Bonnet
The bonnet is dusty pink and frames the face closely, with a scalloped outer edge and narrow ties. Start with the face-framing band. Work flat so you can control the curve.
CO enough stitches to span from one lower ear base, over the top of the head, to the other lower ear base. Work 4 to 6 rows in garter or seed stitch for structure. Then shape a gentle ruffle or scallop edge along one side.
For the scallops, use small repeated arches over short sections. Each scallop should be shallow, not dramatic. The image shows a tidy romantic edge rather than a large frill. Once the front frame is complete, pick up stitches along the inner edge and knit the bonnet back.
Decrease toward the center back to cup the head snugly. Sew the back seam. Add two narrow ties in the same pink. They should be long enough to make a small bow under the chin. The bow in the image is modest, centered, and not oversized.
Striped Top
The top is short-sleeved and fitted, with horizontal stripes in lavender, cream, and pale lilac. It sits under the floral pinafore skirt. You may knit it as a separate pullover or directly onto the upper body. A separate garment gives the cleanest finish.
Using smaller needles, CO enough stitches to fit snugly around the upper torso. Work the body in stockinette with narrow stripes. Keep the stripe sequence soft and balanced. In the image, lavender is the dominant stripe, broken by thin cream and lighter lilac rows.
Knit only to waist length. The neckline should be round and fairly high because the bonnet tie and pinafore straps sit above it. The sleeves are short caps, not puff sleeves. Keep them smooth and fitted.
For each sleeve, pick up stitches around the armhole and knit 4 to 6 rounds in the stripe pattern. Bind off cleanly. Slip the top onto the bunny before attaching the arms if that feels easier for your construction style.
Floral Pinafore Skirt
This is the key feature of the whole design. The skirt has a fitted upper section with two dusty pink straps and a very full lower section covered in raised stock blossoms and leaves. Begin with a waistband that sits just below the striped top.
CO enough stitches to circle the waist. Work 4 to 6 rows in stockinette or a tidy textured band. Then increase steadily across the next few rounds until the skirt flares out. The lower edge should spread wide so the flower clusters can sit prominently.
Knit the base skirt to knee length. Add a beige lower border and a narrow rolled or garter hem. The image shows a neat defined hem, not a lace edge. The skirt should cover the top of the legs while still letting the shoes show clearly.
For the straps, knit two narrow dusty pink bands. Each strap should begin at the front waist, travel straight upward over the shoulders, and button or sew at the back waistband. Add tiny decorative button details at the front base of the straps.
Flower Placement on the Skirt
The blossoms cover almost the entire front of the skirt, clustered in vertical sprays and mounded groups. Use soft sculptural floral units. Make many tiny bloom pieces in white, pale pink, blush, lavender, medium purple, and deep violet.
Each stock-like bloom can be made as a short knitted stem with several small bobbles, knots, or petal nubs worked closely together. The goal is height and texture. Some clusters should be dense and upright. Others should curve slightly outward.
Make leaf pieces separately in sage and green. Simple leaf shapes can be formed with 3 to 7 stitches, increased to a point and then decreased again. Sew leaves first, angling them outward from the bloom clusters.
Then attach the flower stalks, starting with the tallest deep violet and lavender sections near the center and sides. Fill gaps with white and pale pink flowers. The image has a balanced pastel garden effect with no empty front area. Cover the skirt generously.
Do not place flowers high above the waistband. Keep the densest bouquet area from mid-skirt to just above the hem. Allow a few blossoms to overlap. This layered attachment is important for matching the photograph.
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Side Bag
The small bag sits to the bunny’s left. It is tan and beige with a narrow shoulder strap and a lavender bow detail on the front. Knit two small rectangles for the body, plus a base strip if you want depth.
Sew into a tiny boxy satchel shape. Add a flap in beige or tan. Embroider or sew a lavender bow centered on the flap. The strap should be soft and thin, long enough to drape naturally. The bag does not need to open.
Hand Bouquet
The bouquet at the bunny’s left side contains several purple-toned stock stems tied together. Make at least 5 to 7 stems in varying heights. Use pale lavender, deep violet, blush pink, and green. Keep the stems gathered at the bottom with a green wrap.
Each stem may be knitted around floral wire, or worked as a soft i-cord stem with attached blossom bumps. The top of each stem should be fuller than the bottom. Bend them slightly so the bouquet looks natural and hand-held.
Basket and Basket Bouquet
The basket on the bunny’s right is shallow, brown, and oval with a curved handle. Knit or tightly sew woven-look strips in tan and brown. A garter-stitch basket body works nicely because it creates subtle ridges like wicker.
Shape the basket with a flat oval base and short side walls. Add a handle arching from side to side. Inside the basket place pastel filling, including small flower pieces and pale soft stuffing to suggest fabric or petals.
The separate upright flower stem beside the basket should echo the hand bouquet but be slightly slimmer. Tie a tiny lavender ribbon bow near the middle of the stem. Let the flower head rise just above the basket height, as shown in the image.
Duckling
The duckling is a very small companion toy in pale yellow with orange feet and beak. It wears a tiny lavender-pink hat and a simple bib-front outfit with shoulder straps. The body is plump and rounded, but shorter than the bunny’s shoe height.
Begin with the lower body in yellow. Work a rounded oval shape, increasing quickly, then knitting a few plain rounds, then decreasing toward the neck. Stuff firmly. The wings are tiny side ovals in pale cream or soft yellow and are sewn flat against the body.
The feet should be orange and slightly flattened. Make two small paddles or rounded triangle feet and sew them at the base. The beak is a tiny orange wedge centered on the face. Add tiny black eyes or embroidered knots.
The hat is shallow and brimmed in dusty lavender-pink. Knit a small circle for the crown, then a narrow outward brim. The bib-front detail can be made by embroidering or sewing two tiny suspender lines with small button dots at the upper chest.
Assembly Order
- Sew the head to the body securely.
- Attach the legs low on the body so they dangle naturally.
- Attach the arms at the shoulder line.
- Sew on the ears so they fall beside the cheeks.
- Dress the bunny in the striped top.
- Add the floral pinafore skirt and straps.
- Attach the shoes if not already worked from the legs.
- Fit and tie the bonnet.
- Arrange all accessory pieces around the doll.
When sewing the legs, angle them slightly forward so the bunny can sit with the feet visible from the front. When sewing the arms, keep them low and relaxed. The shoulders should not look broad. This doll has a gentle slim silhouette.
Color Layout Summary
- Head, arms, legs: warm beige
- Bonnet: dusty pink
- Top: striped lavender, cream, pale lilac
- Skirt base and straps: dusty pink with beige hem
- Shoes: lavender
- Flowers: deep purple, medium purple, lavender, blush, pale pink, white
- Leaves: sage and green
- Duckling: soft yellow with orange feet and beak
- Bag and basket: tan and brown neutrals
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the head position before tightening the neck seam completely. The face should look straight ahead. Tie the bonnet into a small neat bow. Adjust the ears so they fall evenly. Rework the nose embroidery if needed, because the face is the heart of the doll.
Arrange the skirt flowers after sewing by gently fluffing each cluster with your fingers. The floral front should look full and layered. Place the bouquet, bag, duckling, and basket close to the bunny so the whole set keeps the cozy garden scene shown in the image.
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Care Notes
Display pieces with many sewn flowers are best treated as decorative keepsakes. Gentle handling is fine, but rough play may loosen petals or stems. Store the accessories together so the tiny parts do not get lost.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head larger than body
- Ears long and floppy
- Bonnet snug with a scalloped edge
- Top striped in soft lavender tones
- Skirt full and heavily flowered
- Shoes rounded with slim straps
- Duckling, bag, basket, and bouquets all included
- Face centered and delicate
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak unless all parts are securely fastened and made with washable yarn. Reshape while drying. Keep out of direct harsh sunlight to protect the pastel shades.
For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and accessories in clean tissue and place them in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags in damp spaces. If needed, refresh the flowers and bonnet with light hand shaping after storage.
