Rosebud Sunday Bunny – Knitting

Rosebud Sunday Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted bunny set is designed to capture the charm of a collectible heirloom toy with a soft Sunday garden mood. The finished set includes the bunny, a floral dress, a rounded bonnet, pink shoes, a small flowered handbag, a tiny fox friend in a blue sweater, and a picnic mat with a sandwich and bottle. If you enjoy searching for handmade bunny doll, knitted stuffed animal, heirloom nursery toy, collectible knit rabbit, or artisan soft toy gift ideas, this design brings that same boutique feel into a beautifully detailed make.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

  • Main bunny yarn: light beige or warm oat DK yarn for head, body, arms, legs, ears, and muzzle shaping.
  • Dress yarn: soft cream DK yarn.
  • Bonnet yarn: cream DK yarn matching the dress.
  • Shoe yarn: dusty pink DK yarn.
  • Floral detail yarn: muted rose pink and moss green in fine fingering or light sport weight for embroidered rosebud motifs and tiny flower trims.
  • Fox yarn: rust orange, cream, dark brown, and medium blue DK yarn.
  • Picnic set yarn: cream, dusty pink, navy blue, oatmeal, tan, pale green, and soft brown scraps.
  • Needles: a size suitable for firm toy knitting. Use needles one or two sizes smaller than the yarn ball band suggests so the fabric stays dense and stuffing does not show through.
  • Double-pointed needles: useful for small tubes such as legs, arms, bottle, and fox limbs.
  • Toy stuffing: high-loft polyester filling.
  • Black embroidery thread: for eyes if not using safety eyes.
  • Brown or dark taupe embroidery thread: for nose and mouth.
  • Tapestry needle, stitch markers, row counter, sewing pins, and small sharp scissors.

Finished Size

The bunny stands at approximately 10 to 12 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the head, not including the ear height above the bonnet. The ears extend higher, giving the doll a tall, elegant silhouette.

The fox is much smaller, about one-third of the bunny’s height when seated. The bag, bottle, sandwich, and picnic mat are all scaled to look delicate beside the main doll.

Yarn and Fabric Notes

The bunny in the image has a smooth, even surface with fine stitches and a soft stuffed structure. Keep your gauge tight. A loose fabric will change the face shape, blur the neat dress line, and make the bonnet brim collapse.

The dress should drape gently but still hold a bell shape. The bonnet should have enough structure to sit low across the forehead, with a softly rolled brim. The fox should be firmly stuffed in the head and body, but slightly softer in the lower torso so it can sit naturally.

Construction Overview

  • Main bunny: knit separate head, body, legs, arms, and ears, then assemble.
  • Dress: knit as a separate garment with puff sleeves, a gently flared skirt, and a large front bow at the waist.
  • Bonnet: knit separately and fit around the head, leaving the ears free above it.
  • Shoes: knit as tiny Mary Jane style slippers with a strap and small flower decoration.
  • Bag: knit as a tiny cream handbag with two handles and a flower embellishment.
  • Fox: knit as a complete miniature companion with color changes and a blue sweater.
  • Picnic set: knit a small mat, bottle, and layered sandwich.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • St st = stockinette stitch
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • inc = increase 1 stitch
  • k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • rep = repeat
  • BO = bind off

Gauge

Exact gauge is less important than achieving a firm toy fabric and correct proportion between all pieces. Still, as a practical guide, aim for approximately 26 to 30 stitches and 34 to 40 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using your chosen yarn and needles.

Main Bunny Legs

Knit two. The legs in the image are short, straight, and slightly tapered toward the ankle. They sit under the dress and show just enough below the hem to display the pink shoes.

  1. Using beige yarn, CO a small number of stitches suitable for a narrow leg tube.
  2. Work in the round or seam later if knitting flat. Begin with 2 to 4 rows of ribbing to create a clean ankle edge.
  3. Continue in St st for the lower leg. Add only minimal shaping. The leg should remain slim and tidy.
  4. Increase slightly through the upper leg so it fills out under the skirt without becoming bulky.
  5. Stuff the leg lightly at first, then more firmly from ankle to knee. Keep the top 1 inch less stuffed so it can be sewn neatly to the body.
  6. Leave a long tail for sewing.

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The feet are not oversized. They are gentle rounded shapes that allow the bunny to stand visually balanced. If you want more stability, insert a small felt sole or a discreet flat weight inside the base before closing.

Main Bunny Body

The body is a pear-like shape hidden beneath the dress, with a narrow upper chest and a softly rounded lower section. It should not be too wide, because the overall image is delicate rather than chunky.

  1. CO from the lower body edge.
  2. Work several rows in St st, increasing gradually to form a rounded tummy and hip area.
  3. Keep the shaping smooth. Avoid sudden expansion because the dress is slim at the shoulders and softly full at the hem.
  4. Once the widest point is reached, work even for several rows.
  5. Decrease gradually toward the chest and neck area.
  6. Finish with a firm upper opening for attaching the head.
  7. Stuff the body firmly at the base and middle, but do not overfill the chest.

Before closing, position the legs so they are parallel and centered. The bunny in the image stands upright with a calm, balanced posture. The legs should hang straight down rather than angle outward.

Main Bunny Arms

Knit two. The arms are slim, cylindrical, and slightly tapered. They hang naturally at the bunny’s sides and end just below the waistline of the dress.

  1. CO with beige yarn.
  2. Work a short rib or neat edge at the wrist.
  3. Continue in St st, increasing very slightly toward the upper arm.
  4. Shape the top with a soft cap so the arm can be set close to the body.
  5. Stuff lightly to medium. The arms should be softer than the legs.
  6. Leave long sewing tails.

Do not overstuff the arms. The image shows relaxed arms with a gentle downward angle. Too much stuffing will make them stiff and bulky.

Main Bunny Head

The head is rounded and smooth, with a slightly narrower lower face and a centered stitched muzzle. The cheeks are subtle. The face is calm, sweet, and symmetrical.

  1. CO for the top or bottom of the head, depending on your preferred shaping method.
  2. Increase evenly to create a smooth sphere.
  3. Work even through the widest middle section.
  4. Begin gradual decreases to form a slightly softened lower head area rather than a perfect ball.
  5. Stuff firmly as you close. The head should feel solid so the bonnet and ears sit properly.
  6. Close the remaining stitches securely.

Once stuffed, use a length of matching yarn to create very gentle sculpting at the lower face. The muzzle area should have a soft central line and a tiny triangular nose placement, not a pronounced snout.

Main Bunny Ears

Knit four ear pieces, two outer and two inner-facing pieces if you prefer lined ears. In the image, the ears are tall, narrow, and softly pointed with a pale interior that blends closely with the outer tone.

  1. For each ear, CO a narrow base.
  2. Increase gradually through the lower third to create width.
  3. Work even through the middle.
  4. Decrease toward a rounded point, not a sharp spike.
  5. Make two matching outer ear pieces and two matching inner pieces.
  6. Place wrong sides together and seam around the edge, leaving the base open.
  7. Do not stuff heavily. If desired, add only a whisper of filling at the base.

The ears must stand upright above the bonnet. To achieve this, lightly bend the lower ear base inward before sewing. Stitch the bases firmly to the head so the ears rise close together with a slight outward flare.

Head and Body Joining

Pin the head to the body before sewing. The bunny in the image has a centered, upright neck join with no tilt. Sew around securely using ladder stitch. Add extra stitches at the back of the neck for stability.

Attach the arms after the head is secured so you can judge the shoulder line clearly. The tops of the arms should sit just below the neckline of the dress and angle very slightly outward before falling straight down.

Facial Features

The face is one of the most important parts of this design. Keep the expression gentle and minimal.

  • Eyes: place two small black eyes wide enough apart to feel soft and childlike, but not so wide that the face looks surprised.
  • Nose: embroider a tiny upside-down triangle in dark taupe or brown.
  • Mouth: work a short vertical line from the nose downward, then split into two tiny curved stitches for a delicate bunny mouth.
  • Cheeks: optional faint pink blush can be added very lightly, but keep it subtle.

The eyes sit above the nose line, slightly angled inward by just a touch, creating the calm expression visible in the image.

Dress Overview

The dress is cream with tiny rosebud motifs scattered over the surface. It has puff sleeves, a modest rounded neckline, a fitted upper bodice, a gently gathered skirt, and a large knitted bow at the front waist.

The hem is clean and slightly structured. The overall silhouette is soft and classic, like a treasured nursery dress.

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Dress Bodice

  1. Using cream yarn, CO enough stitches for the lower bodice or neckline, depending on your preferred garment construction.
  2. Work a neat edge. A simple garter edging or narrow seed-stitch border works well for stability.
  3. Shape a shallow neckline at the front.
  4. Work the upper bodice with gentle decreases or waist shaping so it sits close to the bunny body without looking tight.
  5. Keep the shoulder area narrow and feminine.

The neckline in the image is not high. It opens softly around the neck and allows the bunny head and bonnet to remain the focus.

Puff Sleeves

The sleeves are small but rounded, creating a sweet puff at the shoulder. They are short sleeves that end well above the elbow.

  1. CO a small number of stitches for each sleeve.
  2. Increase quickly over the first rows to create fullness at the upper sleeve.
  3. Work a short sleeve length only.
  4. Decrease slightly toward the lower sleeve edge.
  5. Finish with a neat cuff edge.
  6. Sew sleeves into the armholes with the fullness centered on top.

Do not make the sleeves too large. The puff is visible but refined. Oversized sleeves would overpower the small scale of the dress.

Skirt Section

The skirt falls from just below the bodice and flares outward in a smooth bell shape. It is not heavily pleated. Instead, it has soft fullness and a graceful line.

  1. Pick up or join stitches around the lower bodice.
  2. Increase evenly across the first skirt row to begin the flare.
  3. Work several rows in St st.
  4. Add further spaced increases down the skirt to create that rounded, draped shape seen in the image.
  5. End with a firm hem. A few rows of garter stitch work very well here.

The hem should sit just above the ankles, showing the shoes clearly. The front and back length should match. Avoid an overly long dress, because the accessories need to remain visible.

Rosebud Motifs

The dress is decorated with tiny scattered rosebud motifs. These are essential to the look. Keep them small and evenly spaced, with enough irregularity to feel natural.

  • Method 1: embroider each rosebud after knitting using lazy-daisy style bud stitches and two tiny green leaf stitches.
  • Method 2: work duplicate stitch buds and tiny leaf accents.

Each motif should be no larger than a fingernail on the finished toy. Place them across the skirt and upper bodice, with a few on the sleeves. Leave some negative space so the dress remains airy.

Use muted pink for the bud and soft moss green for leaf tips. Do not use bright colors. The image shows a gentle antique palette.

Front Bow

The large front bow is knitted separately and stitched at the waist center. It is one of the strongest visual details in the set.

  1. Using cream yarn, knit a narrow rectangle in garter stitch or seed stitch for structure.
  2. Make the rectangle wide enough to create generous loops once cinched.
  3. Wrap the center tightly with matching yarn or a narrow knitted strip.
  4. Sew the finished bow to the center front waistline.

The bow should sit flat against the dress but still hold dimensional loops. It should be larger than the flower motifs and clearly visible from a distance.

Back Closure Option

You may leave the dress permanently sewn onto the bunny, or create a partial back opening with tiny snaps. For a display piece that matches the image closely, sewing the dress in place often gives the cleanest fit.

Bonnet

The bonnet is rounded with a deep, rolled brim and a smooth crown. It sits low over the forehead while the ears pass up behind it. The shape is simple and elegant.

  1. Using cream yarn, CO for the bonnet brim.
  2. Work several rows in garter stitch or another firm edge to create a softly rolled front brim.
  3. Increase into the head-covering section.
  4. Work over the crown, shaping gently so the bonnet cups the head.
  5. Decrease toward the back if needed and seam neatly.
  6. Try the bonnet on the bunny before final finishing.

The bonnet should not cover the entire face. It frames the forehead and upper head while leaving the stitched features fully visible. Position it so the brim sits just above the eyes. The ears emerge through the back-top area, not through eyelets in the brim.

Shoes

The shoes are pink Mary Jane style slippers with rounded toes, a strap across the top, and a tiny flower on the outer side. They help balance the pink rosebud tones in the dress.

  1. Using pink yarn, CO for the sole.
  2. Work a flat oval or rounded base.
  3. Pick up around the sole and knit upward to form the foot.
  4. Shape the toe with decreases to create a soft rounded front.
  5. Leave an opening over the instep.
  6. Add a narrow strap across the top.
  7. Finish the edge neatly and sew onto the foot if making non-removable shoes.

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For the flower trim, make a tiny pink rosette or layered knot and stitch it near the strap edge. Add the smallest green stitch beneath if desired, but keep the flower delicate.

Handbag

The handbag is a small cream accessory with a softly rectangular body, rounded lower corners, and two short handles. A small pink flower trim decorates the front.

  1. Using cream yarn, knit a small rectangle for the front.
  2. Make a matching back piece.
  3. Add side depth with a narrow gusset strip or seam directly for a flatter bag.
  4. Sew together, leaving the top open.
  5. Knit or crochet two short handles and attach them symmetrically.
  6. Add one tiny flower to the front lower side area.

The bag should stand upright beside the bunny and feel modest in scale. It is not oversized and should reach only a little above the bunny’s ankle when placed on the table.

Mini Fox Companion

This little fox is a complete tiny companion with upright ears, a pointed muzzle, rust body, dark paws, cream face and chest, and a blue sweater. It sits upright and slightly angled, giving the scene warmth and storybook personality.

Fox Legs and Lower Body

  1. Using dark brown yarn, begin each lower paw with a few rows for the feet.
  2. Change to rust orange for the legs.
  3. Knit two short legs.
  4. Join into the lower body and continue upward in rust.
  5. Shape a seated rounded body, slightly broader at the base.

The fox’s lower half should support a seated pose. Keep the bottom weighted with stuffing, and flatten the base lightly with your fingers before closing.

Fox Upper Body and Head

  1. Continue from the body or knit separately and seam later.
  2. Shape a small chest and neck.
  3. Work the head with rust orange as the main color.
  4. Add cream around the lower face and muzzle area.
  5. Shape the muzzle with short rows or embroidery placement if preferred.
  6. Stuff firmly.

The fox face needs a dark nose at the tip and small black eyes placed slightly above the cream muzzle. The expression should remain sweet, not sharp.

Fox Ears

  1. Knit four small ear pieces in rust with cream or pale inner ear sections.
  2. Shape them into tiny upright triangles with softened tips.
  3. Join and sew firmly to the head.

Fox Arms

  1. Use dark brown for the paws.
  2. Change to rust or conceal most of the upper arm beneath the sweater.
  3. Knit two slim arms and stuff lightly.
  4. Sew at shoulder level so they rest at the fox’s sides.

Fox Tail

  1. Knit the tail in rust orange with dark brown near the base if desired and a cream or lighter tip if you want extra detail.
  2. Shape it thick at the base and narrower toward the end.
  3. Stuff lightly and sew to the back so it curls gently beside the body.

Fox Sweater

The blue sweater is simple, cozy, and slightly oversized compared with the fox’s small body.

  1. Using medium blue yarn, knit a tiny tube or flat body panel for the sweater torso.
  2. Add openings for the arm placement.
  3. Knit two tiny sleeves or extend the garment minimally over the upper arms.
  4. Keep the sweater plain stockinette with neat cuffs.
  5. Sew it closed at the back if needed.

The sweater should end around the fox waist and not cover the entire seated lower body.

Picnic Mat

The picnic mat is a tiny cream square or rectangle with a pink motif pattern. It sits under the sandwich and bottle to the left of the bunny.

  1. Using cream yarn, knit a small flat square in garter stitch for stability.
  2. Add a pink stripe, checks, or a simple geometric motif using duplicate stitch or intarsia.
  3. Bind off neatly and block flat.

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The mat should lie completely flat. Press lightly if needed, but do not stretch it out of shape.

Bottle

The bottle is tiny, narrow, and softly cylindrical, with a pale body and a darker blue band or handle detail near the upper section.

  1. Using oatmeal or pale beige yarn, knit a short narrow tube.
  2. Stuff very lightly or insert a trimmed cotton stem for support.
  3. Shape a rounded cap section at the top.
  4. Add a blue wrapped stitch or narrow knitted strip around the upper area.

Sandwich

The sandwich is adorable and very small, made from two cream bread layers with a visible filling edge.

  1. Knit two tiny square or rounded bread slices in cream or pale tan.
  2. Make a slim filling layer in pale green and soft brown or pinkish beige.
  3. Stack the layers and tack them together at the center only so the edges remain soft.

The sandwich should look plush and whimsical, not realistic in a sharp way. Keep all corners rounded.

Assembly Order

  1. Knit and stuff the bunny legs, body, arms, head, and ears.
  2. Join the bunny body pieces.
  3. Add facial sculpting and embroidery.
  4. Knit the dress and sew or dress the bunny.
  5. Attach the bow.
  6. Knit the bonnet and fit it to the head.
  7. Knit and attach the shoes.
  8. Make the handbag.
  9. Knit the fox and its sweater.
  10. Create the picnic mat, bottle, and sandwich.
  11. Arrange the full display scene.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

  • Color balance: keep the palette soft, dusty, and warm.
  • Bunny posture: upright and composed.
  • Dress fit: smooth at the bodice, fuller at the hem.
  • Bow scale: large enough to be prominent.
  • Bonnet position: low on the forehead, ears rising above.
  • Fox pose: seated, slightly leaning with relaxed charm.
  • Accessory scale: all miniatures should look petite beside the bunny.

Tips for New Knitters

If you are newer to toy knitting, focus first on consistency. A smooth fabric matters more than speed. Stuff little by little rather than all at once, and pin every piece before sewing.

When making small accessories, use shorter yarn tails, smaller tools, and a bright work surface. That will make the little pieces much easier to handle neatly.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the ears to the top sides of the head so they rise upright and slightly inward at the base. Fit the bonnet low and stitch it invisibly behind the ears if you want it permanently secured.

Dress the bunny and center the waist bow carefully. Attach the arms so they fall naturally beside the skirt. Add the tiny eyes first, then embroider the nose and mouth. Keep every facial stitch short and precise.

Place the shoes evenly so both feet sit at the same angle. Set the handbag beside the bunny, then arrange the fox on one side and the picnic pieces on the mat for the full garden scene.

Care Notes

  • Display in a dry indoor space.
  • Avoid strong sunlight to protect the soft colors.
  • Handle the small accessories gently.
  • Lift the bunny from the body, not from the ears or bonnet.
  • Keep away from rough play if made as a display item.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Are the ears matched in height and angle?
  • Is the bonnet centered and sitting low enough?
  • Are the eyes even and calm-looking?
  • Does the dress hem fall evenly?
  • Are the rosebud motifs balanced across the dress?
  • Is the front bow centered?
  • Do both shoes match in height and strap placement?
  • Is the fox sitting securely?
  • Are the bag, bottle, sandwich, and mat scaled correctly?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For regular care, use a clean dry brush or a gentle lint-free cloth to remove surface dust. Do not scrub the embroidered face or floral motifs.

If deeper cleaning is needed, spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Test an unseen area first. Never soak the toy if you want to preserve the shape and carefully placed stuffing.

After cleaning, reshape the ears, bonnet, bow, sleeves, and shoes with your fingers. Let everything dry naturally on a towel away from direct heat.

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For long-term preservation, store the set in a breathable cotton bag or covered display case. Avoid plastic sealing for extended periods, especially in humid conditions.

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