Winter Berry Cape Bunny – Knitting

This charming winter bunny is a collectible-style knitted soft toy dressed for the cold season in a rich berry cape dress with fluffy trim, matching shoes, a neat shoulder bag, and a cozy hood that lets the long ears stand tall. The set also includes tiny seasonal table pieces that make it feel extra special: a little reindeer friend, a pudding, a wrapped gift, and a tiny cup. If you love searching for a knitted bunny gift, handmade rabbit doll, heirloom toy, or Christmas nursery decor, this design has the same warm and premium look.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light fingering or fine sport weight yarn in a soft oatmeal-cream shade.
• Berry yarn: fine sport or DK-light yarn in deep cranberry or wine red for the cape dress, hood, bow, shoes, and bag strap.
• Trim yarn: very soft fluffy white yarn for the hood edge, cape edge, sleeve cuffs, and hem border.
• Reindeer yarn: tan, medium brown, dark brown, red, white, green, and berry red scraps.
• Pudding yarn: chocolate brown, white, holly green, and berry red scraps.
• Gift yarn: muted sage green and berry red scraps.
• Cup yarn: cream and dusty rose scraps.
• Needles: a size that gives a very firm fabric, usually 2.25 mm to 3 mm straight or double-pointed needles depending on your preferred method.
• Tapestry needle for seaming and embroidery.
• Small stitch markers.
• Toy stuffing for all figures and props that need shape.
• Black embroidery thread or very fine black yarn for eyes if you do not want to use safety eyes.
• Small pink or berry button for the bag flap.

Finished Size

The bunny should sit at approximately 9 to 11 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the head, not including the ears. With ears extended through the hood openings, the full height is taller. The reindeer is much smaller and should sit around one-third of the bunny’s body height.

The accessories are intentionally miniature. The pudding is squat and rounded. The gift is a tiny soft parcel. The cup is low and wide with a saucer. The overall balance should match the image, with the bunny as the clear focus and the props arranged around it like a styled holiday table scene.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

This project depends more on firm structure than exact stitch count per inch. The knitted fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show through. If your work feels loose, go down a needle size. A dense fabric is especially important for the head, muzzle, feet, reindeer body, and all tiny props.

The bunny in the image has a smooth stockinette face, slim limbs, long tapered ears, and a cape dress with bold vertical texture. That means you should prioritize tidy shaping, steady tension, and clean seaming. Avoid a floppy result. The figure should feel lightly weighted and able to sit upright with help from its broad feet.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Garter = knit every row
• K2tog = knit 2 together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit
• M1 = make 1 increase
• Rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Design Overview

This set is made in separate parts so you can shape each section carefully. Start with the bunny itself: legs, body, arms, head, ears, and tail if desired. Then knit the clothing pieces: textured cape dress, hood, fluffy trim, bow, shoes, and crossbody bag. Finish with the tiny reindeer and tabletop accessories.

The image shows a very specific look. The bunny body is slim and understated so the clothing becomes the star. The ears are long and upright with gentle inward shaping. The face is simple and calm, with tiny dark eyes set wide and a stitched nose-mouth line in a soft Y shape. Keep that expression minimal and sweet.

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in the oatmeal-cream yarn. Each leg is long, narrow, and softly stuffed. The feet are not oversized, because the shoes will create the rounded front shape seen in the image.

1. CO 10 stitches.
2. Work 2 rows in garter.
3. Begin St st and increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Work 3 rows even.
4. Rep the increase row once more. You now have 14 stitches.
5. Work 10 to 14 rows even, depending on the length you want from ankle to knee.
6. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Work 3 rows even.
7. Rep once more to return to 10 stitches.
8. Work 8 to 10 rows even for the lower leg.
9. BO loosely, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Sew each leg into a narrow tube. Stuff the top section lightly and the lower section a little more firmly so the leg keeps a straight shape. Do not overstuff. The image shows slim, elegant legs that disappear under the cape but remain visible below the hem.

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Bunny Body

The body is pear-shaped but quite restrained. It should support the head well while remaining narrow enough for the cape dress to drape over it without bulk.

1. CO 18 stitches.
2. Work in St st for 4 rows.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
4. Work 3 rows even.
5. Rep this increase sequence 4 more times until you reach 28 stitches.
6. Work even for 12 to 16 rows.
7. Begin waist shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 4 times.
8. Work 6 rows even.
9. For the upper torso, increase 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row twice.
10. Work until the body measures proportionally from hip to shoulder.
11. BO, leaving a tail for seaming.

Sew the body neatly. Stuff the lower body more firmly than the upper chest. Before fully closing, insert the tops of the legs side by side so the bunny can sit forward. Position them slightly to the front rather than directly underneath. That angle helps recreate the seated pose shown on the table.

Bunny Arms

Make 2 in oatmeal-cream yarn. The arms are simple tubes with slightly fuller paws. They are short enough that the sleeve cuffs almost reach the hands.

1. CO 8 stitches.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
4. Work 6 rows even.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
6. Work 10 to 14 rows even.
7. BO.

Sew the arms into tubes and stuff lightly. Keep the paw end softly rounded. The finished arms should look delicate and slightly tapered, with just enough stuffing to keep shape. Set them aside until the clothing layers are ready, because the sleeve position matters.

Bunny Head

The head is the defining feature. It is softly oval with a gentle muzzle and a downward-tapered chin. The cheeks are rounded but not puffy. The face should feel calm and refined.

1. CO 14 stitches.
2. Work 2 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 5 times to reach 24 stitches.
4. Work 10 rows even.
5. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row twice to create fuller cheeks and forehead.
6. Work 8 rows even.
7. Begin crown shaping: decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 6 times.
8. Work 1 WS row even between decrease rows if needed for a smoother arc.
9. When the top narrows, draw the remaining stitches closed.

Sew the head with the seam centered at the back. Stuff very firmly but smoothly. Use extra small pieces of filling around the muzzle area so the front remains even. Avoid lumps. The face in the image is smooth, with a slight forward projection around the nose area and no hard corners.

Muzzle Shaping

Thread a strong length of matching yarn. Enter at the base of the head, come out where the nose will sit, and make two or three gentle sculpting passes to define the center muzzle line. Do not pull hard. You want a subtle triangular muzzle, not a deeply pinched face.

For the lower mouth area, take one stitch downward from the nose point and split into two shallow diagonal stitches to form the classic bunny mouth. Keep it small. The mouth should sit high, close to the nose, exactly as shown in the image.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 in oatmeal-cream yarn. The ears are tall, narrow, and softly tapered with a slight inner curve. They stand upright because they are knit densely and lightly stuffed only at the base or left flat if your fabric is firm enough.

1. CO 6 stitches.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
4. Work 3 rows even.
5. Rep the increase row 4 more times until you have 16 stitches.
6. Work 18 to 24 rows even, depending on desired ear length.
7. Shape the tip by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every RS row until 4 stitches remain.
8. K2tog twice, cut yarn, and draw through.

Fold each ear lengthwise with the seam running discreetly along one side or at the back edge. The lower ear should be pinched slightly before attaching to the head. This creates the open, leaf-like form visible in the image. The ears angle upward and outward, emerging through openings in the hood.

Optional Tail

The tail is not visible from the front, so keep it tiny and unobtrusive. Make a small cream pom-pom or knit a simple stuffed nub. Attach low on the back body so it does not interfere with the cape.

Joining the Bunny

Attach the head to the body with strong stitches. The neck should be secure because the hood frames the face closely. Sew the arms high on the side body with a slightly downward angle. This lets the paws rest naturally near the lower edge of the cape openings.

Attach the ears on top of the head, not too close together. Leave enough space between them for the hood crown. Check the silhouette from all sides. The bunny should look elegant and upright, with long visible ears and a centered face.

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Cape Dress Body

This garment is the most important clothing piece. It functions like a winter cape dress, widening from the neckline to the hem. The front shows strong vertical texture, with cable-like or braided panels separated by reverse-stitch channels. The shape is gently A-line, not stiffly flared.

Use the deep berry yarn. Knit flat if you want easy panel control, then seam at the back. You may also knit in one piece if preferred, but keep the front texture centered and symmetrical.

1. CO 54 stitches.
2. Work 4 rows in 1×1 rib for the neckline edge if you want a slightly neat start.
3. Set pattern as follows: 4 stitches seed or reverse texture, 6 stitches braid panel, 4 reverse texture, 8 central braid panel, 4 reverse texture, 6 stitches braid panel, 4 reverse texture, remaining stitches mirrored to keep balance.
4. On every RS shaping row, increase 1 stitch inside each side edge and 1 stitch beside the outer textured panels.
5. Work pattern carefully for 36 to 44 rows, or until the hem reaches just above the bunny’s ankles when worn.

If you do not want to work full cable crosses, you can imitate the look with mock braids made by structured knit-purl panels. What matters most is the visual result: bold vertical raised columns in the berry fabric. The image clearly shows a central wide textured panel and flanking narrower panels.

The body of the cape should be roomy enough to slip over the bunny, but not so wide that it looks loose. The image shows a cozy, fitted drape that falls around the body like a soft holiday coat. Before binding off, test the width across the front to make sure it covers the torso nicely.

Arm Openings

For the easiest construction, leave short side openings at the upper body seam so the arms can pass through. These openings should begin slightly below the neckline and end well above the hem. They must be wide enough for the cream paws and berry sleeve cuffs to show naturally.

Hem Finishing

BO neatly. The lower edge will later receive fluffy white trim. Keep the hem smooth and gently curved if possible. The front hem in the image appears broad, soft, and slightly lifted by the seated pose, not sharply stiff.

Short Sleeves or Inner Sleeve Bands

The image shows berry sleeves ending in white fluffy cuffs. These can be worked as small upper-arm tubes or simple sleeve bands attached inside the arm openings of the cape dress.

1. For each sleeve, CO 14 stitches in berry yarn.
2. Work 10 to 12 rows in St st or light rib.
3. Sew into a short tube.
4. Attach inside the arm opening with the seam hidden underneath.

Slide the bunny arms through and check the length. The cream paws should remain visible, and the berry sleeve should stop above the wrist area. Add fluffy white trim to the cuff edge after the sleeve is joined.

Hood

The hood is close fitting around the face and rises behind the ears. It is not oversized. Its front opening is heavily framed with fluffy white trim, and the crown has two neat ear openings or carefully arranged slits allowing the cream ears to stand up through the top.

1. Using berry yarn, CO 44 stitches.
2. Work 6 rows in 1×1 rib for the lower neck edge.
3. Continue in St st for 20 to 26 rows, shaping slightly by decreasing 1 stitch at each edge every 8th row twice.
4. Fold in half and seam the back of the hood from crown downward, but leave or create two openings near the top center for the ears.
5. Test on the bunny head before final stitching.

The hood should hug the cheeks closely. It must frame the face in a neat oval, not sit far back. In the image, the fluffy trim almost touches the bunny’s cheeks and chin, creating a soft winter bonnet effect. Use small stitches when attaching the hood to the cape neckline so the join looks clean and integrated.

Fluffy White Trim

This trim transforms the outfit. Add it to the hood front, cape hem, cape shoulder edges, and sleeve cuffs. Use very soft fluffy yarn and knit narrow strips, or crochet-like edging if you can simulate the look with knitting. Keep the trim full but not overwhelming.

1. For narrow trim strips, CO 4 to 6 stitches with fluffy white yarn.
2. Knit every row for a plush garter strip.
3. Work to the required length for each area.
4. Attach carefully with hidden stitches so the berry base remains visible.

The hood trim is the thickest and most important section. It should create a rounded, soft frame around the face. The hem trim is broad and even. The shoulder trim forms a capelet line across the upper body, giving the dress its festive outerwear look.

Neck Bow

The bow sits at the base of the hood opening, centered just under the chin. It is compact, plush, and neatly tied-looking, not floppy.

1. CO 10 stitches in berry yarn.
2. Work 18 rows in 1×1 rib or St st.
3. BO and wrap the center tightly with matching yarn to form the bow.
4. For the tails, knit or make two narrow cords.
5. Attach under the chin where the hood meets the neckline.

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The bow should cover the upper front join and add a soft, polished finish. Keep it proportional. It should be visible, but not so large that it hides the front texture of the cape.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is a small berry pouch with a rounded flap, a visible button, and a long strap worn diagonally across the front. It hangs at the bunny’s right side in the image. This detail is easy to miss, but it is important for matching the styling exactly.

1. CO 12 stitches in berry yarn.
2. Work 14 rows in St st for the pouch body.
3. Fold the lower half upward and seam the sides.
4. For the flap, pick up stitches across the top back edge and knit 6 rows.
5. Shape flap corners with 1 decrease at each end on the next RS row.
6. Work 2 more rows and BO.
7. Sew on a tiny pink or berry button.
8. Make a long I-cord or narrow knitted strap and attach at both side top corners.

Drape the strap from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip. The pouch should sit just above the hem trim, not too low. Keep the strap fine and tidy so it does not cover too much of the front cable texture.

Shoes

The shoes are berry red Mary Jane style slippers with two cream bars across the top of each foot. They are rounded and slightly bulbous at the toe, but still refined. Make 2.

1. CO 12 stitches in berry yarn.
2. Work 2 rows garter.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row.
4. Work 6 rows even.
5. Shape the toe by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 3 times.
6. Sew into a small slipper shape to fit over the lower bunny foot.

For the cream straps, embroider or knit two narrow horizontal bars across the upper front of each shoe. These bars should be parallel and clearly visible. The shoe opening sits low, showing the cream leg above. Attach the shoes securely so they do not twist.

Tiny Reindeer Friend

This little companion is a separate knitted animal in tan yarn with dark antlers, a red nose, a striped scarf, and a tiny Santa hat. It is short, seated, and slightly rounded through the belly. The head is small compared to the bunny, but the antlers and hat make it feel festive and noticeable.

Reindeer Body and Head

1. CO 10 stitches in tan yarn for the body.
2. Increase gradually to 18 stitches and work a rounded oval body.
3. Decrease toward the neck and continue into a small head section.
4. Shape a slight muzzle by adding one short increase section before decreasing again at the crown.
5. Sew and stuff firmly but lightly enough to keep the size tiny.

The reindeer should look compact, not elongated. The belly is slightly plump, and the limbs are thin. The head tilts upward just a little. Keep the face sweet and minimal, with tiny black eyes and a centered red nose that is slightly raised.

Reindeer Legs and Arms

Make four slim tube limbs in tan yarn. The lower feet and hoof tips can be stitched or knit in darker brown. The front limbs should angle outward slightly once attached. The rear legs should help the little reindeer sit steady beside the bunny.

Antlers

Use dark brown yarn. Make two small branched antlers with either tiny knitted forks or embroidered wired-looking shapes. They do not need to be fully realistic. What matters is the silhouette: short antlers extending outward from each side of the hat area.

Santa Hat

1. CO 10 stitches in red yarn.
2. Work 2 rows in white for the brim.
3. Switch to red and decrease gradually to a narrow tip.
4. Add a tiny white pom-pom.

The hat sits slightly off-center. Position it between the antlers. The white brim must be visible, and the pom-pom should be tiny and round.

Striped Scarf

Knit a very narrow scarf in alternating green, white, and red rows. It should wrap once around the neck and hang down in front with white fringe or tiny yarn tassels at the ends. This little scarf adds a lot of the holiday character seen in the image.

Christmas Pudding

The pudding is small, squat, and dark brown with a draped white top and tiny holly leaves with red berries. It sits to the bunny’s left. Even though it is small, it should be clearly recognizable.

1. CO 12 stitches in chocolate brown.
2. Work a rounded cup-like dome, increasing slightly then decreasing back in.
3. Sew and stuff firmly.
4. For the icing, knit a tiny uneven white cap with soft points to suggest drips.
5. Attach two small green leaves and three red berry knots on top.

The white top should not cover the whole pudding. Let brown remain visible around the sides. The holly sits near the top center, angled slightly to one side just like a decorative topper.

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Wrapped Gift

The gift is a tiny soft parcel in muted sage green tied with a berry ribbon. Its shape is rounded-square rather than box-stiff. Keep it cute and textile-like.

1. CO 10 stitches in sage green.
2. Knit a small rectangle long enough to fold into a cube-like parcel.
3. Sew side seams and lightly stuff.
4. Wrap berry yarn around both directions to mimic ribbon.
5. Tie a small bow at the top.

The parcel sits low and soft on the table. The bow should be clearly visible from the front. Do not overstuff. A slightly padded, knitted present looks closest to the image.

Tiny Cup with Flowered Top

This tiny cup is cream colored with a loop handle and matching saucer. Inside sits a soft dusty pink topper that looks like a rose-shaped swirl or flowered foam. This detail is delicate and should remain tiny.

1. CO 8 stitches in cream yarn.
2. Knit a very small cylinder with a slightly wider top edge.
3. Form a flat base and sew.
4. Add a curved handle at the side using a short cord.
5. For the saucer, knit a tiny flat circle or oval and place the cup on top.
6. Use dusty rose yarn to create a tiny rolled rosette inside the cup.

The cup should be low and broad, not tall like a mug. The saucer edge is visible under it. The dusty rose swirl must look soft and floral rather than like a plain ball of stuffing.

Facial Embroidery

Place the eyes first. They are small, dark, and wide set, positioned level with the lower half of the face opening inside the hood. Keep them simple. The image does not show lashes, blush, eyebrows, or a heavily worked face.

1. Mark the eye points with pins.
2. Embroider tiny satin-stitch eyes or insert very small black safety eyes.
3. Embroider the nose with matching cream-brown or soft taupe yarn.
4. Extend one short line downward from the nose, then split into two tiny curves for the mouth.

The expression should be peaceful and understated. The muzzle line should not be too dark. The eyes must sit far enough apart to give the broad gentle face seen in the image.

Dressing the Bunny

Slide the cape dress over the body first. Feed the arms through the side openings. Stitch the garment closed or partially closed at the back depending on your chosen construction. Next, add the hood and align the ear openings carefully. Pull the ears through so they rise cleanly above the hood.

Attach the fluffy trim after final fitting if needed. Then sew the bow neatly under the chin. Add the shoulder bag last so the strap sits diagonally across the textured front panel without twisting. Slip the shoes onto the feet and secure them with a few hidden stitches.

Styling Notes for an Accurate Finish

• The bunny’s face must remain simple. Avoid extra blush or decorative stitching.
• The berry shade should be rich and deep, not bright cherry red.
• The trim must look soft and wintery, especially around the hood opening.
• The cape front texture should be clearly raised and symmetrical.
• The bag strap should cross the chest diagonally and rest naturally.
• The reindeer should be noticeably smaller than the bunny and have a bright red nose.
• The small props should feel like styled holiday tabletop decorations rather than large toys.

Helpful Order of Work

1. Knit both bunny legs.
2. Knit the body and join legs.
3. Knit arms.
4. Knit head and ears.
5. Assemble bunny base.
6. Knit cape dress.
7. Knit hood and fluffy trim.
8. Knit bow, bag, and shoes.
9. Knit reindeer.
10. Knit pudding, gift, and cup.
11. Do facial embroidery.
12. Dress and style everything.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the bunny from the front before securing the last stitches. Make sure the head is centered, the ears rise evenly through the hood, and the cape hangs symmetrically. Adjust the bag so it sits at the right side. Re-check the face after dressing, because the hood framing can change how wide the eyes appear.

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Use tiny hidden stitches to hold the hood in place near the cheeks and behind the ears if it shifts. Secure the shoes, bow, and bag with just enough stitching to stay neat during display. Place the reindeer and miniature props around the bunny only after all garment shaping is complete.

Care Notes

This knitted set is best suited for gentle display rather than rough play. Spot clean whenever possible using a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Avoid soaking the fluffy trim unless necessary. Reshape each piece while damp and allow everything to dry naturally away from direct heat.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears the same height and angle?
• Does the hood frame the face closely?
• Is the bow centered under the chin?
• Do the cape textures look balanced?
• Is the white trim attached evenly?
• Does the bag sit diagonally across the front?
• Are the shoe straps visible?
• Does the reindeer have antlers, hat, scarf, and red nose?
• Did you include the pudding, gift, and tiny cup?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished bunny and miniatures in a clean, dry place away from strong sunlight to prevent fading, especially on the berry yarn. If dust collects, use a soft dry brush or a cool, gentle air puff. Do not crush the hood trim, antlers, or bow during storage. Wrap delicate pieces loosely in acid-free tissue if keeping them packed between seasons.