This knitted bunny set is a soft spring display with heirloom charm and collectible detail. The main rabbit wears a mint striped dress, a cozy bonnet, a tiny crossbody bag, and matching Mary Jane shoes, then sits beside a knitted fox friend, a basket of Easter treats, and a little cup and saucer. The finished pieces work beautifully as a handmade bunny doll, nursery decor, seasonal tabletop accent, Easter gift, or knitted animal collectible for shoppers who love artisan toys, cottagecore decor, and boutique-style stuffed animals.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: light fingering or fine sport weight wool blend in warm cream.
- Mint yarn: fine sport weight in soft leaf mint for bonnet, shoes, bag, and dress stripes.
- Pale mint yarn: very light mint for the dress body.
- White yarn: fine cotton or wool-cotton blend for lace edging and bright stripes.
- Fox yarns: rust orange, dark brown, cream, muted gray-beige, and soft sage.
- Basket yarn: light tan or natural straw brown.
- Egg and carrot colors: orange, fuchsia pink, cream, and leaf green.
- Cup and saucer yarns: pale aqua or dusty mint, plus a little brown for the drink.
- Toy stuffing: soft polyester fiberfill.
- Weighted pellets: optional for the bunny body and base of the basket.
- Safety eyes or beads: very small glossy black eyes for bunny and fox.
- Embroidery thread: dark brown for noses, mouths, and tiny facial details.
- Buttons: three tiny cream buttons for the bunny dress front and one tiny white or cream button for each shoe strap if desired.
- Small decorative flower center: cream and pale yellow thread for the bag flower.
- Knitting needles: sizes suitable for very firm toy knitting, usually US 0 to US 2, plus double-pointed needles for narrow parts.
- Tapestry needle, stitch markers, row counter, sewing pins, and scissors.
Finished Size
The bunny should sit at approximately 10 to 12 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the tips of the ears when posed exactly like the image. The fox should measure about 4 1/2 to 5 inches tall seated. The basket should be around 2 1/4 inches high.
The cup and saucer are very small accent pieces. The cup is roughly 1 inch tall, and the saucer is slightly wider than the cup base. The crossbody bag should rest at hip level and look intentionally miniature compared with the bunny body.
Gauge and Fabric Notes
Gauge matters strongly for this set. The fabric must be dense enough that stuffing never peeks through. Use a smaller needle than usual for your yarn. A firm fabric also helps the face stay smooth, the ears remain upright, and the fox sit with a crisp shape.
For the bunny, aim for a very even stockinette surface with almost invisible gaps. For garments and accessories, the stitches may be slightly softer, but they should still look polished. The lace-look edges in the image can be created with delicate picot-style knitted trim or a tiny eyelet edging.
Skill Level
This project is best for an adventurous beginner or intermediate knitter who is comfortable with shaping, picking up stitches, small seams, and light embroidery. Nothing is overly difficult, but the accuracy depends on patience and careful finishing.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- inc = increase
- dec = decrease
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit two together
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- dpn = double-pointed needle
Design Overview
The set contains five finished pieces: the bunny, the bunny’s dress, bonnet, shoes, and bag, plus three scene props. Those props are the seated fox, the basket with carrots and eggs, and the cup with saucer. Each piece is knitted separately, then assembled carefully.
The silhouette is important. The bunny has a large oval head, a slim neck, a softly stuffed tube-shaped torso hidden beneath the dress, long upright ears, straight arms, and long dangling legs with slightly enlarged feet. The face is simple and sweet, with tiny eyes, a delicate Y-shaped nose, and a centered calm expression.
Main Bunny Body
Head
CO using cream yarn. Work the head in the round if you prefer a smoother surface, or flat with a back seam if that gives you better control. Begin at the lower neck edge and increase steadily to build a rounded egg-like head.
The lower part of the head should be narrower than the cheeks. The widest section should sit around the mid-face and upper cheek area. Above that, continue even rounds for enough height to create the tall forehead visible under the bonnet.
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As you shape upward, avoid making a perfect sphere. The image shows a slightly elongated face with gentle tapering toward the nose area. Keep the front smooth. The muzzle is not protruding strongly. It is suggested only by stuffing placement and a tiny embroidered nose.
Work a few short rows or slightly firmer stuffing in the lower front face if you need a subtle nose plane. Do not create a large snout. The face in the image is refined, minimal, and elegant, with no chubby muzzle.
When the head reaches full height, decrease gradually to close. Leave an opening for stuffing. Fill firmly but evenly. The head must hold shape without deep dents. The chin should remain soft, and the cheeks should be smooth rather than round and puffy.
Close the top neatly. If working flat, seam the back with an invisible mattress stitch. Position the seam so it disappears beneath the bonnet and between the ears.
Neck
The neck is short and modest, not exaggerated. It should only lift the head slightly above the dress neckline. Work a narrow neck tube, stuff it firmly, and attach it securely so the head does not wobble.
Torso
The torso is mostly hidden by the dress, but it determines the hanging posture. Work a slim cylindrical body in cream yarn. The upper chest should be narrow enough to fit under the dress yoke, while the lower body should widen slightly for balance.
Add a little weight at the bottom if you want the bunny to sit more securely on a shelf. Keep the body soft but supportive. Overstuffing will make the dress flare awkwardly. Understuffing will make the bunny collapse when seated.
The finished torso should allow the legs to dangle from the front edge while the upper body remains upright. That balance matters because the bunny in the image appears relaxed, seated on the bench, with the legs hanging naturally downward.
Arms
Make two arms in cream yarn. They are simple, narrow tubes with minimal shaping. Begin at the shoulder end or paw end according to your preferred method, but keep the wrists only slightly narrower than the upper arm.
The arms should look soft, straight, and lightly stuffed. They hang close to the body. There are no visible paw pads, thumb shaping, or sharp elbows. The left arm sits down toward the bag. The right arm rests near the fox, so both must remain flexible.
Do not overstuff the arms. A lightly stuffed arm looks more natural and will drape more like the image. Close the ends neatly and leave long tails for sewing.
Legs
Make two long cream legs. Each leg is a straight tube from upper thigh to ankle, then widens smoothly into the foot. The legs are longer than the arms and intentionally slender. They must extend below the dress hem and remain visible even with shoes on.
The image shows the bunny sitting with straight dangling legs rather than bent knees. To copy that look, stuff the legs evenly and firmly enough to remain cylindrical. Do not add knee shaping. Keep the line clean and childlike.
Feet
The feet are softly oval and slightly wider than the ankles, but they are not oversized. Work short-row shaping or a simple wedge shape so the shoe sits naturally over the foot. The sole should be flat enough to keep the shoe from twisting.
Once finished, sew each foot to its leg if worked separately. Make sure both feet angle forward. Because the bunny is seated, the feet should face the viewer rather than turning outward too much.
Ears
Make two long ears in cream yarn. Each ear is narrow at the base, widens through the center, and tapers to a softly pointed tip. The edges are smooth and neatly defined. The ears in the image stand upright and slightly outward.
For each ear, knit two matching pieces. Use a slightly smaller needle for the inner layer if you want the ear to curve gently inward. Sew the pieces together around the edge, leaving the base open. Add only a trace of stuffing or no stuffing at all.
The ear should not be floppy. To help it stand, lightly steam block, then add a concealed internal support if needed, such as a very thin pipe cleaner wrapped safely or a strand of floral wire enclosed completely. Only use this if the piece is decorative and not for children.
Sew the ears close together on top of the head, emerging from beneath the bonnet line. They should rise vertically first, then angle outward a little. The left and right ear should match in height and pitch.
Facial Placement
The face is one of the most important parts of this design. Place the eyes low on the head, well below the midpoint, and fairly far apart. They are tiny black dots, not large toy eyes. This creates the calm, innocent expression shown in the image.
Embroider the nose with dark brown thread. The nose is a very small inverted triangle or split V shape placed low and centered. Extend one short line downward, then divide into two tiny curved mouth lines. Keep the embroidery light and elegant.
Do not add blush, eyelashes, eyebrows, or sculpted cheeks. The face should remain simple. The softness comes from proportion, not from extra decoration.
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Dress
Overall Shape
The dress is pale mint with wide white horizontal stripes and delicate white edging. It has short sleeves, a fitted upper bodice, a high waist seam, and a gently flared skirt. The neckline is round and modest, and the front has three tiny cream buttons.
The dress should look neat and tailored, not oversized. The bodice sits close to the bunny body. The skirt falls to just below the knees and ends with a decorative white lace-style hem that peeks outward in a soft ruffle.
Bodice
Using pale mint yarn, CO for the lower bodice or neckline depending on your construction preference. A top-down method makes fitting easy, while a bottom-up method gives crisp control over the waist. Either is suitable if the finished proportions match the image.
Shape the neckline into a rounded front. The shoulder line should be narrow, because the bunny has a petite upper body. Work the bodice mostly in stockinette, but maintain a refined finish with clean edge stitches for later seaming or button band placement.
At the center front, create a narrow decorative placket. Attach or knit in three tiny cream buttons vertically. These are ornamental in appearance but may also function as a back or partial front closure if you prefer.
Add a delicate white lace-look trim across the chest line. This trim sits horizontally under the buttons and wraps around the upper dress. It reads as a narrow feminine band and helps separate the bodice from the fuller lower section.
Sleeves
The sleeves are short and softly puffed only by proportion, not by dramatic gathering. Work them in pale mint to match the bodice. They end above the elbow and are finished with a slim white decorative edging that mirrors the chest trim.
Do not make the sleeves too wide. They should skim the arm and look tidy. When sewn or attached, they should sit slightly outward from the shoulder but not flare strongly.
Skirt
From the waist, increase evenly to begin the skirt. The image shows a gentle A-line shape, not a heavily gathered dress. Work wide white stripes separated by pale mint sections. The stripes should be clean, level, and proportionate across the full circumference.
Use two or three broad white bands in the lower skirt, depending on your row gauge. The light mint between stripes should remain the dominant color. The overall visual effect is soft spring striping, not bold contrast.
The skirt should have enough width to spread slightly over the seated body, but not so much that it becomes bulky. When the bunny sits, the dress should drape around the torso and still allow the legs to show clearly beneath the hem.
Hem Edging
The bottom hem has the most visible decorative finish. Work a white lace-look border separately or pick up stitches along the hem and knit a picot-inspired trim. The finished edge should read as delicate scalloping or a tiny eyelet frill.
This trim should extend a little beyond the dress hem and soften the silhouette. Keep it thin and airy. A heavy border will overpower the bunny. The image shows a refined edge that looks almost like a knitted lace ribbon.
Bonnet
The bonnet is knitted in mint yarn and frames the face closely. It fits like a baby bonnet, hugging the sides of the head and covering the crown while leaving the face open. The ears emerge through the top rather than being covered.
Begin with the face opening edge and work backward over the crown, or knit flat and seam at the back. Use garter stitch or a tidy textured edge around the face opening to imitate the soft rolled frame visible in the image.
The bonnet should sit low enough to frame the forehead but high enough that the eyes remain fully visible. It must not cover the cheeks. The shape should gently cup the head and finish in narrow ties or cords under the chin.
Make two slim knitted ties or i-cords. Tie them lightly beneath the chin area. In the photo, the tie line is subtle, so keep the cords fine. The bonnet color should match the shoes and bag closely for a coordinated look.
Crossbody Bag
The small bag is an essential detail and should not be skipped. It is mint green, softly rounded, and worn across the body with a narrow strap. The bag rests on the bunny’s left side and sits over the skirt rather than under it.
Knit the bag as a small oval or rounded rectangle. Work a front flap or create the appearance of one through shaping. The bag is flat enough to lie against the dress but slightly padded to hold its shape.
Add a tiny flower embellishment on the front. Use cream petals with a pale yellow center. The flower should be small and simple, just large enough to be visible. Sew it firmly to the lower front of the bag.
The strap should be narrow, like an i-cord or tight band, and long enough to pass diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Adjust the final length only after the dress is on the bunny so the bag hangs at the correct position.
Mary Jane Shoes
The shoes are deep mint green and cover the front and sides of the feet, leaving a small top opening. Each shoe has a narrow strap across the instep and a tiny side button detail. The shape is rounded and sweet, like classic Mary Jane flats.
Work each shoe from the sole upward. Begin with a firm oval sole sized exactly to the bunny foot. Pick up stitches and work the side walls, then shape the toe by decreasing gradually across the front.
Leave an opening at the top so the cream foot remains visible. The opening should look like a neat oval window. Then add a thin strap across the top. Attach the strap to one side and finish the other side with a tiny button or stitched knot to imitate a button closure.
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The shoe should hug the foot firmly. If it feels loose, tack it invisibly to the foot at the heel and toe. The final pair must match in height, strap angle, and opening size.
Mini Fox Companion
General Proportion
The fox is small compared with the bunny and sits beside it as a secondary character. It has a large head, pointed ears, a narrow body, slim arms, short seated legs, and a curved tail. It wears a striped sweater and pale shorts.
The overall feel is woodland and friendly. Keep the fox refined, not cartoonishly exaggerated. Its face is small and slightly serious, which balances the sweetness of the bunny.
Head and Snout
Using rust orange yarn, work a rounded head with slightly fuller cheeks than the bunny. The snout is more defined than the bunny’s face but still compact. Add a cream muzzle patch if desired, though keep it small.
Place tiny black eyes close together. Embroider a small black or dark brown nose at the tip of the snout. Add one short vertical line below the nose, then tiny mouth shaping if desired. Keep the expression gentle.
Ears
Make two pointed ears in rust orange with dark brown outer tips and cream inner edges if you want extra fidelity. The ear tips in the image are darker, so this contrast matters. Sew them upright on top of the head.
Body
Work a slim torso that remains mostly hidden beneath the striped sweater. It should be lightly stuffed and narrow enough to let the arms fall beside it. The fox sits upright, so place a little extra stuffing or weight at the base.
Arms and Legs
The arms are thin rust orange tubes with dark brown paws. The legs are short and tucked into a seated position under the shorts. Their exact internal structure matters less than the visible shape once assembled.
Because the fox is seated, attach the legs so they angle forward slightly. The feet should rest at the front. The right arm may angle upward slightly, echoing the pose in the image.
Tail
Make a moderately full tail in rust orange with a darker end if desired. Curve it around the body so it peeks from the side while the fox remains stable in a seated pose.
Sweater
The sweater is striped in dark green and cream or off-white. Work narrow, even stripes. The sweater has short sleeves and fits snugly around the torso. A slightly cropped shape works well because the shorts are visible below it.
Keep the neckline simple and close to the neck. The sweater should feel tiny and tailored, not bulky. If knitting in the round becomes awkward at this scale, knit flat and seam invisibly at the back.
Shorts
The shorts are a muted taupe-gray beige. They cover the upper thighs and create the soft neutral base seen in the image. Work them as a tiny pull-on garment or knit directly onto the lower torso if you prefer a fixed outfit.
Basket
The basket sits on the left side of the bunny and is shallow, round, and tan. It has a firm body, a flat base, and a gently arched handle. The scale is miniature but large enough to hold three visible items comfortably.
Use tan yarn and a tight gauge. Work a flat circular base first. Then pick up stitches around the edge and knit the basket walls upward. Keep the walls low and straight with only a little outward easing near the rim.
For extra structure, line the basket interior with a hidden circle of felt or a cardboard insert sealed inside fabric. This step is optional but helps the basket keep its shape in a display setting.
Make the handle as a narrow strip, i-cord, or tightly worked band. Attach it securely to opposite sides. The handle should arch above the basket without drooping too much.
Basket Fillers
Carrots
Knit two tiny carrots in bright orange. Each carrot is a short cone with a rounded base and a tapered top or bottom depending on your preferred direction. Add small leafy green tops made from knitted loops, i-cords, or tiny leaves.
The carrots should look plump and decorative rather than realistic. They are nestled inside the basket and only partly visible. Keep them small enough that the basket still looks airy.
Eggs
Make at least two small eggs, one bright pink and one pale cream. The eggs are tiny ovals, lightly stuffed, and smooth. You may also add a third hidden egg if you want the basket to feel fuller, but only two are clearly visible in the image.
Place the eggs and carrots so the pink egg sits toward the front right of the basket and the orange carrots remain visible at the back and left. Sew them in place lightly so the arrangement stays attractive.
Cup and Saucer
This detail is small, but it completes the scene. The cup is pale aqua or dusty mint and sits on a matching saucer. A dark brown circle at the top suggests tea or cocoa. The handle is tiny and delicate.
Work the saucer first as a small flat circle with a faintly raised edge. The cup can be knitted as a tiny tube with a slightly narrower base and wider rim. Add a fine handle from a short cord or a curved knitted strip.
For the drink surface, stitch or insert a brown felt circle inside the rim opening. The cup should sit slightly to the right of the fox, as shown in the image.
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Assembly Order
- Finish and stuff the bunny head, torso, arms, legs, and ears.
- Sew the head to the torso securely.
- Attach the arms high on the shoulders.
- Attach the legs at the lower front body so they dangle when seated.
- Sew the ears to the top of the head.
- Embroider the bunny face and place the eyes.
- Knit and dress the bunny in the dress, bonnet, shoes, and bag.
- Make the fox and dress it in its sweater and shorts.
- Knit the basket, carrots, eggs, cup, and saucer.
- Arrange all props to match the original composition.
Detailed Finishing Notes for Accuracy
- Bunny head: slightly larger than the torso, but not oversized.
- Ears: tall, slim, upright, and close together.
- Bonnet: mint, snug, framing the face smoothly.
- Dress: pale mint with broad white stripes and white decorative trims.
- Buttons: three tiny cream buttons centered on the chest.
- Bag: mint crossbody bag with a tiny flower.
- Shoes: darker mint Mary Janes with strap detail.
- Fox: rust orange with striped sweater and pale shorts.
- Basket: tan, shallow, with carrots and eggs.
- Cup: pale aqua with a brown drink surface and matching saucer.
Styling the Display
To recreate the feeling of the image, pose the bunny in a seated position with the upper body upright. Let the legs hang down naturally. Place the basket on the bunny’s left side and the fox on the right, sitting close against the dress.
Set the cup and saucer just beyond the fox. The crossbody bag should angle diagonally across the front of the dress. The bonnet ties should remain subtle. Nothing should look stiff or heavily arranged. The charm comes from a calm, balanced scene.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew all main seams with care and hide every yarn tail fully inside the pieces. Check the head angle before closing the final seam. The bunny should look straight ahead with a faint downward softness, not tilted sharply back or sideways.
Place the eyes first, then test the nose position with a temporary thread. Once satisfied, embroider the nose and mouth in very small stitches. The expression should remain quiet and sweet. On the fox, keep the nose slightly sharper and smaller.
Dress the bunny only after the body is fully assembled. Add the bonnet, then position the bag strap. Sew the shoes invisibly if needed. Arrange the props only when every piece is finished so the scene feels intentional and polished.
Care Notes
- Display pieces are best kept away from direct sunlight to protect the soft mint and cream shades.
- Dust gently with a clean dry brush or soft cloth.
- If lightly soiled, spot clean with cool water and mild wool-safe soap.
- Do not machine wash if the toys contain internal support, pellets, or glued details.
- Reshape while damp and dry flat.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Are both bunny ears the same height and angle?
- Do the eyes sit evenly and low on the face?
- Is the embroidered nose tiny and centered?
- Do the dress stripes look level all the way around?
- Does the bag hang at hip height?
- Do both shoe straps match?
- Is the fox small enough compared with the bunny?
- Does the basket keep its round shape?
- Are the carrots, eggs, cup, and saucer securely finished?
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For long-term display, store the set in a breathable cotton bag or acid-free box when not in use. Avoid plastic containers in damp spaces. Moisture can flatten fibers and dull the crisp look of the knitted fabric.
If a piece loses shape, lightly mist it, reshape by hand, and allow it to air dry fully. Do not wring. For white trims, test any cleaner on a hidden area first. Always handle the ears, bag strap, and basket handle gently, because those are the finest structural details.
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