Patchwork Maple Bunny – Knitting

Patchwork Maple Bunny – Knitting

Soft woodland details make this bunny set especially appealing for knit toy lovers who enjoy collectible stuffed animals, heirloom nursery decor, handmade bunny dolls, and seasonal gift ideas. The cardigan, plaid skirt, beret, tiny shoulder bag, squirrel friend, acorn, teapot, cup, and carrot create a charming storybook display that feels perfect for fall decor, baby shower gifting, and boutique-style handmade toy inspiration. Every piece in this set is designed to look polished, cozy, and realistic while still being approachable for patient knitters who want a beautiful keepsake.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with long ears, a rounded face, a cream cardigan with dark brown trim, two bear-shaped front pockets, a plaid skirt, Mary Jane shoes, and a small crossbody bag.

The full display also includes a dressed squirrel holding an acorn, a small teapot with lid, a tiny cup, and a carrot. The overall palette is warm cream, chocolate brown, tan, beige, muted olive, rust, and soft orange.

The bunny should look gentle and upright, with a large head, narrow neck, softly rounded torso, straight legs, and relaxed arms. The expression is simple and sweet, with small dark eyes and a stitched nose-mouth detail.

Materials

  • Main bunny color: light cream wool or wool-blend DK yarn
  • Contrast color: dark brown DK yarn
  • Secondary neutrals: tan, oatmeal, and beige DK yarn
  • Skirt colors: dark brown, tan, cream, and a very small amount of deep muted navy or charcoal for plaid accents
  • Squirrel colors: warm chestnut brown, cream, olive green, and a little darker brown
  • Carrot colors: orange and leaf green
  • Teapot and cup: pale gray-beige with dark brown for trim and lid knob
  • Acorn: tan and dark brown
  • Needles: 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or small circular for toy knitting
  • Optional larger needles: 3 mm for looser accessories if preferred
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Waste yarn
  • Toy stuffing
  • Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread
  • Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional shoe sole support
  • Tiny buttons: 4 for cardigan front and 1 very small button for neckline detail if desired
  • Sewing thread matching brown and cream

Finished Size

The bunny is approximately 10 to 12 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including the hat. With the beret on, the display height is slightly taller. The squirrel should stand around one-third of the bunny’s height.

The teapot should reach only slightly above the bunny’s ankle level. The cup should be very small, and the carrot should be about the length of the cup plus a little more.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Toy knitting should be firm. Use a needle size that gives you a dense fabric so stuffing does not show. The stitches in the image are smooth stockinette with clear columns and minimal gaps.

Aim for a compact fabric rather than a drapey fabric. The cardigan, bag, squirrel vest, and hat all look structured. The skirt has more movement, but it should still hold its shape and flare gently rather than collapse.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • k2tog = knit 2 together
  • p2tog = purl 2 together
  • inc = increase
  • dec = decrease
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • rep = repeat

Construction Order

  1. Knit the bunny legs and body.
  2. Knit the head and shape the face.
  3. Knit ears and arms.
  4. Knit cardigan, skirt, shoes, hat, and bag.
  5. Knit the squirrel and acorn.
  6. Knit teapot, cup, and carrot.
  7. Assemble and add facial details.

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Bunny Legs

Knit the legs in cream, starting at the sole. Each leg is slim and straight, with only a slight widening at the upper thigh. The bunny stands upright, so the lower leg must be neat and evenly stuffed.

Leg 1

  1. CO 8 sts in cream.
  2. Work 1 row purl.
  3. Increase evenly to 12 sts.
  4. Work 6 rounds in stockinette.
  5. Increase 2 sts evenly across next round. You now have 14 sts.
  6. Work straight for 18 more rounds.
  7. Stuff lightly at the foot, then a little more firmly through the calf.

Leg 2

Repeat Leg 1 exactly. Keep the stuffing level consistent so both legs match in width. The image shows balanced, straight legs with no exaggerated knees.

Join Legs

  1. Place both legs on one needle set.
  2. Join with 4 sts cast on between them at center front and 4 sts between them at center back, or use your preferred joining bridge.
  3. You should now have approximately 36 sts total, depending on your preferred bridge method.
  4. Knit 4 rounds plain.

The joined lower body should look narrow, with the legs positioned slightly apart but not wide apart. The bunny in the image has a modest stance, allowing the skirt to fall naturally over the upper legs.

Bunny Body

The torso is compact, softly rounded, and slightly wider at the lower body than at the chest. It should not be barrel-shaped. Keep the silhouette gentle and almost column-like.

  1. From the joined legs, increase 4 sts evenly over the next 2 rounds to reach about 40 sts.
  2. Work 10 rounds straight.
  3. Decrease 4 sts evenly across the next round.
  4. Work 6 rounds straight.
  5. Decrease 4 sts evenly again.
  6. Work 6 rounds straight to create the upper torso.

Stuff the body firmly at the base and moderately at the upper section. The chest should remain smooth because the cardigan sits close to the body. Do not overstuff near the neck opening.

Neck

  1. Decrease evenly to about 20 sts.
  2. Work 4 to 5 rounds straight.

The neck is visible above the cardigan neckline but still short. It should support the head without looking tall or thin.

Bunny Head

The head is the most important part of the design. It is large, almost oval-round, with a broad face, soft cheeks, and a gently tapered muzzle area formed by shaping and light sculpting.

  1. From the neck, increase evenly to 32 sts.
  2. Knit 1 round.
  3. Increase evenly to 40 sts.
  4. Knit 1 round.
  5. Increase evenly to 48 sts.
  6. Work 18 to 22 rounds straight.

At this stage, begin stuffing gradually. The face should be firm but not hard. Keep the stuffing smooth, especially at the front, because the facial embroidery is very clean and centered in the image.

Head Crown Shaping

  1. Decrease 6 sts evenly.
  2. Knit 1 round.
  3. Decrease 6 sts evenly.
  4. Knit 1 round.
  5. Decrease 6 sts evenly.
  6. Knit 1 round.
  7. Continue until the opening is small enough to close.
  8. Finish stuffing, then draw the remaining stitches closed.

The finished head should be wider than the cardigan shoulders and noticeably larger than the torso. This scale contrast is essential for the storybook look.

Face Shaping and Embroidery Placement

The eyes are tiny and widely spaced, placed slightly above the midpoint of the face. The stitched nose is a small inverted Y with gentle curves extending outward into a simple mouth.

  • Eyes: place them about 8 to 10 stitches apart, depending on your gauge
  • Nose: centered low on the face, below eye level
  • Mouth: two short diagonal curves, soft and understated

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If using safety eyes, install them before fully closing the head. If embroidering, use a tiny satin stitch or a small straight stitch cluster. The expression should remain calm and sweet, never exaggerated.

Ears

The ears are long, flat, and softly drooping. They hang straight down from the sides of the hat and extend to about shoulder level. Each ear is knitted in cream and kept lightly stuffed or unstuffed.

Make 2

  1. CO 8 sts in cream.
  2. Work in stockinette, increasing 1 st at each side every 4th row until you have 16 sts.
  3. Work straight for 18 rows.
  4. Begin tapering by decreasing 1 st at each side every 6th row twice.
  5. Work 6 more rows.
  6. Bind off loosely.

Fold the cast-on edge slightly when sewing to the head so the ear root looks natural. The ears should fall close to the face, not stick out.

Arms

The arms are simple tubes, slightly tapered at the wrist and fuller near the upper arm. In the image, the arms rest downward with only a gentle outward angle.

Make 2

  1. CO 10 sts in cream.
  2. Work 6 rounds straight.
  3. Increase 2 sts evenly.
  4. Work 16 rounds straight.
  5. Increase 2 sts near upper arm if needed.
  6. Work 4 more rounds.
  7. Bind off, leaving a long tail.

Stuff lightly. The wrists should remain slim so the cardigan cuffs fit neatly. Flatten the top of each arm before sewing for a soft shoulder join.

Cardigan

The cardigan is one of the signature pieces in this set. It is cream with dark brown ribbing, cuffs, button band, collar trim, and lower hem. The fit is neat and slightly cropped.

There are four visible front buttons and two bear-face pockets. The bear pockets sit low on the front and are rounded at the top, with tiny ears and embroidered facial details.

Back

  1. CO 34 sts in dark brown.
  2. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
  3. Change to cream, keeping 2 edge sts in brown if you prefer built-in trim later, or work full cream and add trim afterward.
  4. Work in stockinette for 24 rows.
  5. Shape armholes by binding off 2 sts at each side once.
  6. Work 14 more rows.
  7. Shape shoulders by binding off 5 sts at each shoulder edge twice.
  8. Bind off remaining neck sts.

Left Front

  1. CO 18 sts in dark brown.
  2. Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.
  3. Change to cream, but keep 4 front edge sts in dark brown for button band.
  4. Work to match back length, shaping armhole at side edge.
  5. At neckline, decrease 1 st every 2nd row 5 times.
  6. Bind off shoulder to match back.

Right Front

Work as Left Front, reversing shaping. Add four evenly spaced buttonholes along the brown button band. Make small yarn-over buttonholes or one-stitch eyelets based on your yarn thickness.

Sleeves

  1. CO 16 sts in dark brown.
  2. Work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib.
  3. Change to cream.
  4. Increase 1 st at each side every 6th row until you have about 24 sts.
  5. Work to desired length.
  6. Bind off.

Sew shoulder seams, set sleeves, and sew side and sleeve seams. The cardigan should close smoothly at the front without strain. Add the small neckline button detail centered at the top if you want the same visual richness as the image.

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Brown Trim and Collar

Pick up stitches evenly around the neck opening in dark brown. Work 4 rows in rib or garter to form a short standing collar. It should hug the neck closely without flaring wide.

Bear Pockets

Make 2 in dark brown. Each pocket is shaped like a tiny bear head with rounded base, curved top, and two little ears. The pocket opening is subtle, so these function mainly as decorative appliqué pockets.

  1. CO 10 sts in dark brown.
  2. Work 2 rows.
  3. Increase 1 st at each side every other row until you have 16 sts.
  4. Work 6 rows straight.
  5. Decrease 1 st at each side every other row twice.
  6. Bind off.

For each ear, make a tiny semicircle with 3 or 4 sts, or embroider a rounded nub. Sew two ears to the upper edge. Embroider tiny cream muzzle ovals and a dark stitched nose. Stitch pockets low on the cardigan front.

Plaid Skirt

The skirt sits just below the cardigan hem and reaches to above the ankles. It is gently gathered at the waist and worked in a plaid effect using narrow stripes and stitched surface accents.

The dominant tones are brown, cream, and tan, with dark crossing lines to suggest woven plaid. The effect should be soft and classic rather than bold.

Waistband

  1. CO enough sts to fit around the bunny waist comfortably, approximately 48 to 56 sts depending on your gauge.
  2. Work 4 rows in dark brown k1, p1 rib.

Body of Skirt

  1. Change to main plaid sequence.
  2. Work 4 rows cream.
  3. Work 4 rows tan.
  4. Work 4 rows dark brown.
  5. Work 4 rows tan.
  6. Work 4 rows cream.
  7. Repeat this arrangement until skirt depth is reached.

To imitate plaid, embroider or duplicate-stitch narrow vertical lines after knitting. Use dark brown and a touch of deep muted navy or charcoal. Space them regularly so the checks stay balanced.

At the top of the skirt, increase a small amount after the waistband if you want more fullness. The image shows a skirt with modest flare, not a dramatic gathered circle.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are dark brown and soft, with a rounded toe, open instep strap effect, and flat sole. They should sit snugly over the feet and show a visible strap opening across the top.

Make 2

  1. CO 8 sts in dark brown for sole.
  2. Increase to 12 or 14 sts over the next few rows.
  3. Work foot base to match bunny foot length.
  4. Pick up around edges and knit upward for shoe sides.
  5. Shape rounded toe with decreases at front.
  6. Leave an opening at the instep.
  7. Knit a narrow strap separately and attach across the opening.

The strap in the image is integrated neatly, almost like a Mary Jane line rather than a bulky band. Keep it tidy and close to the foot.

Beret

The beret is cream and tan with dark brown brim and a tiny central stem at the crown. The top is softly puffed and slightly slouchy, but not oversized. It sits low over the forehead.

Brim

  1. CO stitches to fit around the head, approximately 44 to 50 sts.
  2. Work 6 to 8 rounds in dark brown rib.

Main Hat

  1. Change to alternating cream and tan sections.
  2. Increase evenly across one round to create fullness.
  3. Work 10 to 12 rounds, alternating soft tan blocks or vertical-style sections to echo the image.
  4. Begin crown decreases gradually.
  5. Finish with a tiny 3 to 4 stitch stem in dark brown.

The hat has small dark brown decorative marks near the upper cream sections. These can be duplicate-stitched as tiny seed-like accents to match the picture more closely.

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Crossbody Bag

The bag is a small cream shoulder pouch with a long beige strap. It hangs from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip. The front features a small bear-face motif in dark brown, echoing the cardigan pockets.

Bag Body

  1. CO 12 sts in cream or pale beige.
  2. Work in stockinette for enough rows to fold into a small pouch.
  3. Bind off.
  4. Fold and seam sides.

Flap

Create a curved flap separately or extend from the back panel. Keep the flap soft and rounded. Sew down neatly so the bag looks miniature and polished.

Strap

  1. CO 3 sts in beige.
  2. Work i-cord or narrow garter strip until long enough to cross the torso diagonally.
  3. Sew each end securely to the bag.

Add a tiny dark brown bear face to the front. The motif should be centered and smaller than the cardigan pocket bears.

Squirrel Friend

The squirrel is a complete secondary character, not just a quick extra. It has a rounded head, upright body, pale tummy, curved tail, tiny hat, olive vest, and a held acorn. Its scale should be much smaller than the bunny but still substantial enough to display clearly.

Body and Head

  1. CO from the feet in chestnut brown.
  2. Work a narrow lower body, then widen for the tummy.
  3. Use cream for the front belly panel or add it as duplicate stitch afterward.
  4. Continue upward into the neck and head as one piece if preferred.

The squirrel head is slightly narrower than the bunny’s and more pointed at the muzzle. The eyes are tiny black dots. The nose and smile are stitched in dark thread.

Arms and Legs

These should be very small and attached close to the body so the squirrel can hold the acorn at chest level. Keep the feet stable enough for posing.

Tail

  1. CO 8 sts in chestnut brown.
  2. Increase gradually to create fullness.
  3. Work long enough to curve upward behind the squirrel.
  4. Decrease near the tip slightly for a tapered finish.

Stuff lightly and curve the tail before sewing. The tail in the image is full and upright, reaching above the head.

Olive Vest

Knit a simple tiny vest in muted olive green. It should sit open at the front and cover only the upper torso. Keep it fitted and very thin so it does not hide the body shape.

Tiny Hat

The squirrel hat is a miniature green cap with a narrow brim and a small dark accent. It sits tilted slightly forward.

Acorn

  1. Knit a tiny tan oval for the acorn base.
  2. Knit a dark brown cap separately.
  3. Join them and add a small stem knot if desired.

Sew the acorn between the squirrel’s paws so it appears gently held.

Teapot

The teapot is pale gray-beige with a rounded body, curved spout, side handle, lid, and small brown knob on top. It should be soft but hold its silhouette.

Pot Body

  1. CO 8 sts in pale gray-beige.
  2. Increase evenly to 24 sts.
  3. Work several rounds straight.
  4. Decrease gradually toward the neck.

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Spout

Knit a small tapered tube, slightly curved, and sew to the front side. It should angle outward gently, not sharply upward.

Handle

Make a narrow cord or strip and sew in a loop to the back side. Keep it small and round.

Lid

  1. CO a few sts and increase into a small dome.
  2. Finish with a dark brown knob.
  3. Sew lightly in place or keep removable for display.

Tiny Cup

The cup is a very small pale gray-beige cylinder with slight ribbed texture from the knitting. It has a tiny handle loop and a softly rounded rim.

  1. CO 8 sts.
  2. Join and work 6 to 8 rounds.
  3. Bind off loosely at rim.
  4. Add a very small side handle.

Do not overstuff the cup. You may leave it empty or use only a trace of stuffing at the base.

Carrot

The carrot is small and bright orange with a narrow pointed end and a green tuft at the top. It lies on the table in the image and gives a playful woodland market feeling.

  1. CO 6 sts in orange.
  2. Increase to 10 sts.
  3. Work 4 to 5 rounds.
  4. Decrease gradually to form a pointed carrot tip.
  5. Stuff lightly.
  6. Add a small leafy green top with 3 short knitted points or embroidered strands.

Assembly Notes for Clothing and Props

Dress the bunny in layers. First put on the skirt, then the cardigan, then the shoes. Add the bag last so the strap lies visibly across the front of the cardigan.

The beret should sit low, with the ears emerging from underneath and falling down at both sides. Do not attach the ears over the hat. The hat rests above them.

Arrange the squirrel beside the bunny’s left side if you want to match the image closely. Place the teapot and cup to the bunny’s right, with the carrot nearby.

Styling Details That Matter

  • Head-to-body ratio: large head, smaller torso
  • Ears: long and soft, hanging straight
  • Cardigan: cropped, neat, buttoned front, dark trim
  • Pockets: two visible bear motifs, low placement
  • Skirt: plaid effect with gentle fullness
  • Shoes: rounded Mary Jane style
  • Bag: small, cream, diagonal strap, bear detail
  • Hat: beret shape with stem and soft patchwork effect
  • Squirrel: full tail, olive vest, green cap, acorn in paws
  • Tea set: tiny and softly rounded

Helpful Tips for New Knitters

Work slowly and compare proportions often. For a toy set like this, the shape matters as much as the stitch count. If one part looks too large, re-knit it before assembly.

When making small props, use less stuffing than you think. Tiny pieces become distorted very quickly if packed too tightly. Smooth shaping gives a cleaner result than firm stuffing in miniature items.

Duplicate stitch is very useful in this project. It helps create plaid lines, bear facial details, and tiny hat accents without thick, clumsy embroidery.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the legs so the bunny stands evenly. Attach the head firmly to the neck using multiple passes of yarn and thread if needed. The head is large, so it must be stable.

Sew the ears symmetrically, slightly behind the eye line. Let them fall close to the cheeks. Attach arms at shoulder level with a soft downward angle so the cardigan sleeve line stays natural.

Add the eyes first if they are embroidered. Then stitch the nose as a tiny central triangle or short satin cluster. Finish with a neat vertical line and two soft curved mouth lines.

Sew on the cardigan buttons, then fasten the cardigan. Position the skirt so the plaid section shows fully below the hem. Attach the bag diagonally and place the beret so it frames the face nicely.

For the squirrel, sew the tail last so you can balance the pose. Place the acorn between the paws before securing them completely. Set the tiny hat slightly forward for extra charm.

Care Notes

  • Keep the set away from rough play if using very small decorative parts.
  • Display away from strong sunlight to help preserve color depth.
  • Use gentle handling around the squirrel tail, teapot spout, and bag strap.
  • If gifting to a child, replace any button or bead-like detail with secure embroidery.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Both ears match in length and droop evenly
  • Face is centered and calm-looking
  • Cardigan closes smoothly
  • Bear pockets are level
  • Skirt plaid lines are balanced
  • Shoes sit flat
  • Bag hangs at hip height
  • Beret is softly rounded, not too tall
  • Squirrel can stand or lean securely
  • Teapot, cup, carrot, and acorn are all finished neatly

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean whenever possible using a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap. Press gently rather than rubbing. Allow the item to air dry fully on a towel, reshaping the bunny, squirrel, and props while damp.

Do not machine wash, and do not soak pieces with internal stuffing for long periods. Small props can lose shape if saturated. Keep the tea set and carrot dry enough to preserve their neat structure.

Store flat in a clean box or on a dust-free shelf. Stuff acid-free tissue inside the skirt and around the hat if you want to maintain the display silhouette during storage.

For long-term preservation, avoid hanging the bag by its strap for months at a time. Rest it against the body instead. This helps prevent stretching and keeps the miniature accessory looking crisp.

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