Candy Stripe Cottage Bunny – Crochet

This sweet amigurumi set features a long-eared bunny dressed in a red-and-cream striped outfit with a brown skirt, matching hat, little shoulder bag, and Mary Jane shoes. It has the charm of a handmade stuffed rabbit, collectible crochet doll, and boutique nursery decor piece in one design.

The full scene also includes a tiny mouse friend, a potted plant, a small cup and saucer, and a yarn-and-hook accent for a cozy handmade display. If you love searching for amigurumi doll patterns, crochet gift ideas, artisan bunny plush, or heirloom toy designs, this project fits beautifully.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern is written to match the image as closely as possible. The bunny has a large round head, a small tapered body, long floppy ears, short rounded arms, straight legs, a softly flared skirt, a striped cardigan with a red collar, a striped bucket hat, a shoulder bag, and red shoes.

The proportions matter. The head is noticeably larger than the torso, the ears fall low beside the face, and the legs are long enough to give the doll a standing posture. The mouse is much smaller than the bunny and works as a companion accent rather than a separate large toy.

The visual style is neat, smooth, and structured. Use tight, even stitches and firm stuffing so every piece keeps its shape. The clothing should look tailored, not slouchy. The small props should be simple, tidy, and proportional to the main figures.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light cream or warm ivory DK cotton
• Accent red yarn: deep cherry red or cranberry DK cotton
• Brown yarn: medium chocolate brown DK cotton
• Mouse yarn: light taupe, dusty blue, soft pink, sage green, and book-cover cream
• Plant yarn: terracotta, dark brown, and leafy green
• Cup yarn: cream and pale beige or blush for the saucer
• Yarn ball prop: tan or camel
• Crochet hook: 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm for the amigurumi pieces
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Black safety eyes for the bunny and mouse, or embroidered eyes if preferred
• Pink or beige embroidery thread for noses and light facial shaping
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small buttons or crocheted buttons for cardigan detail
• Optional thin craft wire only if you want extra structure in the bag strap

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical in the same way it is for garments, but consistency is very important. The bunny should stand roughly 10 to 12 inches tall from the bottom of the shoes to the top of the hat, depending on yarn and hook choice. The mouse should be about one-third the bunny’s height.

The plant, cup, and yarn prop are display accents. They should remain clearly smaller than the bunny’s shoes and smaller than the mouse’s torso. If your props look too large, go down one hook size and reduce stuffing.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring
• sc = single crochet
• inc = increase
• dec = invisible decrease
• sl st = slip stitch
• ch = chain
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• BLO = back loop only
• FLO = front loop only
• st = stitch
• rnd = round

General Notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless a section says otherwise.
• Mark the first stitch of every round.
• Stuff gradually and firmly, especially the head, body, and shoes.
• Use invisible decreases for a smoother finish.
• For stripes, complete the last yarn-over of the final stitch with the new color.
• Keep all tension tight enough so stuffing does not show through.

The image shows a polished, boutique-style finish. For that reason, take extra care with color changes. Jogless stripes are helpful for the hat, cardigan, sleeves, and bag. You do not need perfect mathematical symmetry, but you do want the stripes to read cleanly from the front.

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Color Placement Plan

• Bunny skin: cream
• Cardigan body and sleeves: alternating cream and red stripes
• Cardigan collar: solid red
• Skirt: solid brown
• Hat: striped cream and red with a red brim edge
• Bag: striped cream and red with brown base and brown strap
• Shoes: solid red
• Mouse sweater: dusty blue
• Mouse hat: green
• Book: pale mint cover with cream pages

Bunny Head

The bunny’s head is almost spherical with a slightly flattened lower face. The cheeks are soft and full, but the muzzle is not protruding like a bear. The face reads calm and sweet, with wide-set dark eyes, a tiny triangular nose, and no oversized snout.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Rnd 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Rnd 11-20: sc around. (60)

Place the eyes between Rnds 12 and 13 with approximately 10 to 12 visible stitches between them, depending on the exact width achieved by your yarn. The eyes should sit slightly low on the face rather than high on the forehead. This keeps the expression gentle.

1. Rnd 21: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
2. Rnd 22: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
3. Rnd 23: (6 sc, dec) around. (42)
4. Rnd 24: (5 sc, dec) around. (36)

Begin stuffing firmly. Focus on keeping the head round across the cheeks and crown. Avoid overstuffing the lower face, or the nose area may push outward too much. The image shows a smooth face plane with subtle shaping rather than a projecting muzzle.

1. Rnd 25: (4 sc, dec) around. (30)
2. Rnd 26: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)

Fasten off with a long tail if sewing to the neck later, or leave the head open if you prefer to crochet it directly to the body opening. Do not close the head completely yet if you want to add extra shaping after attaching the ears.

Bunny Nose

With pale pink, blush beige, or nude thread, embroider a very small triangle centered between the eyes and slightly below them. Add a short vertical stitch under the triangle. The nose should be tiny and refined. Avoid a large satin-stitched nose because the image shows minimal facial detailing.

Bunny Ears Make 2

The ears are long, flat, and softly stuffed at the base only. They are not standing ears. They hang down along the sides of the head and reach to around shoulder or upper arm level. Their width is moderate, with gently rounded tips.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-6: sc around. (18)
5. Rnd 7: (7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec). (16)
6. Rnd 8-18: sc around. (16)
7. Rnd 19: (6 sc, dec) twice. (14)
8. Rnd 20-26: sc around. (14)
9. Rnd 27: flatten and sc through both layers across the opening, or leave open for sewing.

Lightly stuff only the lower third if needed. Most of the ear should remain flat and drapey. Sew the ears to the head slightly behind the eye line, wide enough apart so the face stays fully visible from the front. Angle them downward immediately from the join point.

Bunny Body

The body is smaller than the head and gently pear-shaped, but not dramatically wide at the hips because the skirt provides the visual volume. The torso should taper toward the neck so the oversized head remains the main visual feature.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6-10: sc around. (30)
7. Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec) around. (24)
8. Rnd 12-15: sc around. (24)
9. Rnd 16: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
10. Rnd 17-18: sc around. (18)

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Stuff the body firmly but keep the upper torso a little softer than the lower torso. This helps the head settle naturally instead of looking perched stiffly. Leave a long tail for sewing. The neck opening should be centered and even.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are straight and fairly slim. They are longer than the arms and visible beneath the skirt. The cream stockings continue into the red shoes, which are rounded and neat. The bunny in the image has a stable standing pose, so keep the feet flat and compact.

Leg and Foot Base

1. With red, ch 6.
2. Rnd 1: starting in second ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, work across opposite side, sc 3, inc in last. (12)
3. Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2. (18)
4. Rnd 3: sc around in BLO. (18)
5. Rnd 4: sc 5, dec x4, sc 5. (14)

Stuff the toe lightly so the front stays rounded. Change to cream for the leg. This creates the visible opening of the shoe where the cream foot area shows at the top, just like the image.

1. Rnd 5: in cream, sc around. (14)
2. Rnd 6-16: sc around. (14)

For the second leg, repeat the same steps. Stuff both legs firmly, especially the ankles. If desired, insert a small amount of plastic pellet filling into the bottom of each shoe before final stuffing for better balance.

Joining the Legs

Stand both legs side by side with the toes facing forward. Join them with 3 to 4 chains, depending on your exact stitch tension, and work the body from there if you prefer a one-piece lower section. If you already made a separate body, sew the legs symmetrically beneath it.

Bunny Arms Make 2

The arms are short, simple, and lightly tapered. They hang slightly away from the body because of the cardigan. They should reach to about the upper skirt area once attached. Keep them neat and not overstuffed.

1. Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: (sc, inc) around. (9)
3. Rnd 3-4: sc around. (9)
4. Rnd 5: dec, sc 7. (8)
5. Rnd 6-14: sc around. (8)

Stuff only the lower half of each arm. Flatten the opening and sew to the body just below the neckline. Angle the arms slightly downward and outward so the hands sit beside the skirt rather than tight against the torso.

Brown Skirt

The skirt is separate and sits at the waist. It has a softly pleated or ribbed texture and flares outward in a gentle bell shape. It is not puffy. The hem falls above the ankles and below the cardigan, allowing the legs and shoes to remain visible.

1. With brown, ch a length that fits snugly around the bunny’s waist. Join without twisting.
2. Round 1: sc evenly around.
3. Round 2: work 2 dc in each stitch or alternate 1 dc and 2 dc to create controlled flare.
4. Round 3-8: dc around, or hdc around for a denser skirt.
5. Final round: sc or sl st neatly around the hem.

To mimic the vertical texture in the image, you can work the skirt in hdc through the third loop on selected rounds or use BLO on one shaping round. Do not overflare. The skirt should look like a tidy cottage-style garment, not a party tutu.

Sew or tie the skirt around the waist after the body is assembled. The waistband should sit neatly under the cardigan edge. The brown tone needs to contrast clearly with the red-and-cream stripes above.

Striped Cardigan

The cardigan is one of the defining features of the design. It is cream and red striped, front-opening, and finished with a rounded red collar. It has a close fit through the shoulders and torso, with long sleeves and a neat lower edge ending right above the skirt waistband.

You may crochet the cardigan directly onto the body in rows, or make it separately in panels and sew. A separate piece gives more control and usually matches the look of the image best. The front should overlap slightly but still show the button line clearly.

Back Panel

1. With cream, chain to match the bunny’s back width from underarm to underarm.
2. Work 1 row sc.
3. Begin stripe sequence: 2 rows cream, 2 rows red, repeating until the piece reaches from waist to shoulder.
4. Shape slight armholes by skipping one stitch at each side for one or two rows near the top.

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Front Panels Make 2

1. Chain half the back width plus a small overlap allowance.
2. Work the same stripe sequence.
3. On the inner edge, keep a straight front opening.
4. At the neckline, decrease gradually over several rows for a gentle front slope.

The front opening is important. The image shows four visible red buttons descending down the center. Space your button details evenly. Even if the cardigan does not functionally open and close, the decorative placket should be clean and centered.

Sleeves Make 2

1. Chain enough for the upper arm circumference.
2. Join and work in rounds or rows, matching the cardigan stripe sequence.
3. Taper slightly toward the wrist with 1 or 2 decreases spaced over the length.
4. Finish with a cream cuff edge.

Sew the sleeves neatly into the armholes if making them separately. The stripes should align visually with the body stripes as much as possible. The sleeves in the image are tidy and fairly slim, ending just above the hands.

Red Collar

With red, work around the neckline edge using sc, hdc, and dc to build a soft rounded collar on both sides. Each collar half should sit outward over the top of the cardigan like a petal-shaped flap. The collar is bold but not oversized.

Button Band and Buttons

• Work 1 to 2 rows of sc along each front edge for a firmer placket.
• Add four small red buttons or crochet four tiny flat circles.
• Place them vertically from upper chest to lower cardigan edge.

The finished cardigan should hug the body gently. It should not pull tightly across the front, but it also should not hang loose. The image shows a neat, dressed look, with the bag strap crossing diagonally over the cardigan front.

Striped Bucket Hat

The hat is rounded at the crown with a downward bucket shape and a soft brim. It sits low on the head and frames the face, stopping above the eyes. The stripe pattern is fine and frequent, with the last edge finished in red.

1. Rnd 1: with cream, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Rnd 9-12: work stripes in sc around to fit the head crown.

Try the hat on the head. It should fit comfortably without stretching. Continue the stripe sequence for the sidewall, then begin the brim by increasing lightly every few stitches for two or three rounds.

1. Rnd 13: in stripe sequence, (7 sc, inc) around.
2. Rnd 14-15: sc around.
3. Rnd 16: (8 sc, inc) around.
4. Rnd 17: sc around.
5. Final round: red, sl st or sc around for a crisp edge.

The brim should angle outward just enough to match the photo. Avoid a floppy sunhat effect. The image shows a compact bucket shape with a clean rounded silhouette.

Mary Jane Shoes Make 2

The shoes are red, rounded, and simple, with a strap over the top. They sit flat and symmetrical. The opening reveals a cream foot area inside, which helps separate the shoe from the leg visually.

1. Use the foot base from the leg instructions.
2. After shaping the shoe, add a short strap with 5 to 7 chains.
3. Anchor the strap across the top opening.
4. Add a tiny side nub or stitched dot to suggest the fastening point.

The strap should be delicate and not too bulky. Keep the shoe profile low and rounded. The overall effect should feel classic and childlike, matching the cardigan and skirt.

Striped Shoulder Bag

The bag is medium-small and hangs at the bunny’s right side on a diagonal strap crossing the chest. The body of the bag is striped cream and red, while the lower portion and strap are brown. The bag is softly rounded, not boxy.

Bag Body

1. With brown, make a small oval base using ch 6 and working around both sides.
2. Work 2 to 3 rounds in brown for the bottom section.
3. Change to alternating cream and red stripes for the upper body.
4. Continue until the bag reaches a proportion that looks about one-third the bunny torso height.

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Bag Opening

Keep the top slightly open or close it partially for display. The image shows the bag hanging naturally, so it does not need a rigid flap. A light pinch at the top corners will help create the soft satchel shape.

Bag Strap

1. With brown, chain enough to cross from one side of the bag, over the bunny’s shoulder, across the chest, and down to the other side.
2. Work back in sl st or sc for strength.
3. Sew both ends securely to the bag.

Position the bag so it rests near the bunny’s right hip. The strap should cross from the left shoulder area toward the right side, matching the image. Adjust the length before sewing permanently.

Tiny Mouse Companion

The mouse is a charming secondary figure with a rounded head, small pink ears, black eyes, a tiny pink nose, a blue sweater, a pale lower body, pink feet, and a thin tail. It also wears a small green hat and holds a tiny book.

Mouse Head

1. With taupe, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Rnd 5-8: sc around. (24)
6. Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) around. (18)
7. Rnd 10: sc around. (18)

Insert small black eyes widely spaced on the upper half of the face. Embroider a pink nose and a few tiny whisker stitches if desired, but keep them subtle. Stuff the head firmly.

Mouse Ears Make 2

1. With pink, 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Fasten off.
4. Optional: make a second slightly larger taupe circle and layer behind the pink circle.

Sew the ears high on the head, one on each side. They should be round and clearly visible, but not oversized. The green hat will sit between them.

Mouse Body

1. With pale neutral, 6 sc in MR. (6)
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: (sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Rnd 4-5: sc around. (18)
5. Change to blue.
6. Rnd 6-10: sc around. (18)
7. Rnd 11: (sc, dec) around. (12)

The mouse body should look pear-shaped, with the blue sweater covering the upper portion. Stuff lightly to moderately. Keep the figure petite and neat so the book and hat remain readable details.

Mouse Arms and Legs

• Arms: make 2 small tubes in pink, 5 to 6 stitches around, lightly stuffed or unstuffed.
• Legs: make 2 tiny pink nubs, slightly larger at the feet, then sew beneath the body.

The mouse stands with a simple display pose. One arm can angle toward the book. The feet should be tiny and rounded, just enough to echo the softness of the bunny’s shoes.

Mouse Tail

Chain a thin tail in pink and either leave it as chained yarn or work back with slip stitches. Sew it low on the back of the body and curve it gently around the side.

Mouse Hat

1. With green, 6 sc in MR.
2. Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
3. Rnd 3: sc around.
4. Rnd 4: work a small brim with a few increases.

This hat is tiny and neat, sitting like a miniature brimmed cap. Keep it centered between the ears. It should not hide the mouse’s face.

Mouse Book

Make two tiny flat rectangles in pale mint or soft seafoam for the cover and one slightly smaller cream rectangle for the page block. Join them at one edge so the book appears slightly open. Sew or tack the book to the mouse’s side.

Potted Plant

The plant sits in a terracotta pot with dark soil and several soft green leaves. It should look like a small tabletop prop, wider at the top than the cup, and lower than the bunny’s knee.

Pot

1. With terracotta, start with a small flat circle.
2. Work upward in even rounds.
3. Add a slight outward flare near the top.
4. Finish with one firm rim round.

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Soil Insert

Make a dark brown circle to fit inside the pot opening. Lightly stuff under it or glue in a small stuffing tuft if you want the plant to keep shape. Sew the insert into place after attaching the leaves.

Leaves

• Chain 6 to 8 for each leaf.
• Work sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc along the chain for a tapered leaf.
• Make 5 to 7 leaves in green.
• Sew them into a clustered arrangement before fixing into the pot.

The image shows softly sculpted leaves with visible center texture. You can add a simple surface stitch line down the middle of each leaf for extra realism. Arrange the leaves outward in a balanced tabletop cluster.

Cup and Saucer

The tiny cup is cream with a small handle and sits on a pale beige or blush saucer. It is a miniature display piece and should be very small, noticeably smaller than the plant pot and much smaller than the mouse body.

Saucer

1. With pale beige or blush, make a small flat circle.
2. Add one outer round with a slight increase to form the saucer lip.

Cup

1. With cream, make a tiny circle.
2. Work up in straight rounds for a short cylinder.
3. Add one tiny chain loop as the handle.

Keep the cup upright and plain. The simple shape reads clearly in the scene and supports the cottage mood without distracting from the bunny.

Yarn Ball and Hook Prop

The tan yarn ball and small hook complete the crafting-table atmosphere. These details are tiny but important because they help tell the story of the display. Make them simple, clean, and unmistakable.

Yarn Ball

1. With tan, make a very small stuffed sphere or oval.
2. Wrap a strand of the same yarn around it several times to suggest wound yarn.
3. Leave a short loose tail trailing from the ball.

Hook

You may use a real miniature hook for styling, or crochet a very slim tube over floral wire and bend one end slightly. If making a decorative crochet version, keep it understated and proportionally smaller than the cup saucer diameter.

Assembly

1. Sew the head to the body, making sure the face points straight forward.
2. Attach the ears so they fall down both sides of the face.
3. Sew the arms to the upper body.
4. Attach the legs evenly so the bunny can balance in a standing pose.
5. Add the skirt at the waist.
6. Dress the bunny in the cardigan.
7. Place the hat low on the head.
8. Add the shoes if made separately.
9. Sling the bag diagonally across the body.
10. Assemble the mouse and its accessories.
11. Finish the plant, cup, yarn ball, and hook.

Once everything is assembled, arrange the props so the scene feels balanced. In the image, the plant and cup sit to the bunny’s left, while the mouse, yarn ball, and hook sit to the right. This creates a cozy tabletop composition with visual harmony.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the bunny’s face from the front before securing the ears permanently. The eyes should be level, the nose centered, and the ears balanced. If needed, use a few hidden stitches to slightly draw the cheeks inward and create a softer face plane.

Make sure the cardigan fronts lie neatly, the collar curves cleanly, and the buttons are evenly spaced. Straighten the bag strap so it crosses the chest naturally. Position the hat low but not so low that it covers the eyes.

For the mouse, confirm that the ears are even, the tiny hat sits centered, and the book is visible from the front angle. The props should support the scene without blocking the bunny’s shoes or skirt shape.

Care Notes

• Display in a dry area away from direct sunlight.
• Dust gently with a soft brush or clean dry cloth.
• Spot clean when possible instead of soaking.
• Reshape the hat brim, ears, and bag after handling.
• Keep tiny props away from small children if using safety eyes or decorative details.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head is larger than body and centered correctly
• Ears hang evenly on both sides
• Eyes and nose are symmetrical
• Cardigan stripes look clean from the front
• Red collar sits flat and visible
• Skirt length matches the image
• Hat brim curves outward gently
• Bag hangs at hip level on a diagonal strap
• Mouse, plant, cup, yarn ball, and hook are all included

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

If the piece needs cleaning, start with the mildest method. Use a barely damp cloth for surface marks and blot rather than rub. For deeper cleaning, hand wash gently in cool water with a small amount of mild soap, then press in a towel and air dry flat.

Do not twist or wring the pieces. Reshape the bunny head, ears, hat, skirt, and mouse while damp. Stuffed pieces should dry fully before display or storage. Keep the props together in a small box or fabric pouch so the scene remains complete over time.

For long-term preservation, store in a breathable container with acid-free tissue if possible. Avoid sealed damp spaces, strong perfume exposure, and heavy stacking. The cleaner and drier the environment, the longer the stitches, colors, and shaping will stay beautiful.