Knitting Tutorial: Meadow Lace Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This elegant heirloom bunny is designed as a collectible knitted rabbit doll with a soft country-garden look, a floral embroidered dress, a rounded capelet, a kerchief-style bonnet, tiny Mary Jane shoes, a matching shoulder satchel, a hand-tied wildflower bouquet, and a miniature hedgehog friend. It has the charm of a luxury handmade toy, the appeal of a nursery decor gift, and the detailed finish many makers look for when searching for a knitted bunny pattern, handmade bunny doll, artisan toy, Waldorf-inspired rabbit, or keepsake stuffed animal.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern creates a seated bunny approximately 15 inches / 38 cm tall from the top of the bonnet to the bottom of the feet when posed as shown. The body proportions are intentionally long and graceful, with a large rounded head, slim neck, softly stuffed torso, narrow arms, straight dangling legs, and long folded ears.

The clothing and accessories are part of the visual identity of the project, so every visible item in the image is included here: the bunny, dress, capelet, bonnet, shoes, satchel, bouquet, and the tiny hedgehog with its own miniature collar bonnet. The embroidery placement is described in detail so the final piece closely matches the photographed sample.

This is a flat-and-seamed knitting pattern written in US English. Small items may be worked on double-pointed needles if preferred, but every section also includes a flat option whenever possible. A confident beginner can make it with patience, while intermediate knitters will enjoy the shaping and finishing details.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight wool or wool blend in warm ivory, about 320 to 380 yards.
• Dress and bonnet yarn: same ivory DK, included in the amount above or add 180 extra yards if using a separate skein for cleaner contrast.
• Shoe yarn: DK weight in deep denim blue, about 35 yards.
• Embroidery yarn: fingering or crewel wool in soft white and muted leafy green.
• Hedgehog body yarn: light taupe or oatmeal DK, about 20 yards.
• Hedgehog “spines” yarn: brown or heathered brown DK, about 15 yards.
• Optional bouquet stems: green embroidery floss or fine wool.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm and US 3 / 3.25 mm.
• Optional DPNs: US 2 / 2.75 mm for shoes and hedgehog.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill or clean carded wool.
• Eyes: black embroidery thread or two 4 mm safety eyes if the toy is decorative only.
• Needle: tapestry needle and sharp embroidery needle.
• Closures: 2 tiny buttons for shoes, 1 tiny snap or hidden stitch for satchel, optional tiny bead buttons for decorative bonnet side accents.

Gauge

26 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 2 / 2.75 mm needles after light blocking. Tight gauge is important for a neat stuffed toy. If your fabric feels loose, go down a needle size so stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• dec = decrease
• inc = increase
• k = knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• p = purl
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• WS = wrong side
• yo = yarn over

Finished Parts at a Glance

• 2 legs
• 2 shoes
• 1 body
• 2 arms
• 1 head
• 2 ears
• 1 dress
• 1 capelet
• 1 bonnet
• 1 satchel
• 1 bouquet
• 1 miniature hedgehog
• 1 miniature hedgehog collar bonnet

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Bunny Legs

Make 2 in ivory using US 2 needles. Each leg is worked flat from the sole upward, then seamed along the back. The foot is lightly shaped but remains narrow so the blue shoes fit snugly. Keep the stuffing firm at the foot and softer near the thigh so the legs hang naturally.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k10, m1R, k1. 14 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 9: work 5 rows in stockinette, ending with a WS row.
7. Row 10: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
8. Row 11: purl.
9. Row 12: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
10. Rows 13 to 34: work 22 rows in stockinette.
11. Row 35: k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
12. Row 36: purl.
13. Rows 37 to 44: stockinette.
14. BO knitwise on RS.

Sew the long edge seam, shape the foot so it sits slightly flattened, and stuff. The finished leg should measure about 5 1/4 inches / 13.5 cm. Leave a long tail at the top for attaching to the body.

Bunny Body

The body is worked flat in two pieces from lower torso to neck. The silhouette should look like a soft pear: slightly wider at the lower body, gently narrowing at the waist, then narrowing more clearly at the neck. This proportion is important because the dress fits over it closely without bulk.

Front Body

1. CO 24 sts in ivory.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: knit.
4. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 2 inches / 5 cm.
5. Shape waist, Row 1 (RS): k2, ssk, k16, k2tog, k2. 22 sts.
6. Row 2: purl.
7. Row 3: k2, ssk, k14, k2tog, k2. 20 sts.
8. Row 4: purl.
9. Work 8 rows even in stockinette.
10. Row 13: k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2. 18 sts.
11. Row 14: purl.
12. Work 6 rows even.
13. Row 21: k2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k2. 16 sts.
14. Row 22: purl.
15. Work 4 rows even.
16. BO.

Back Body

Work exactly as Front Body.

Do not sew shoulders because the top remains open for joining the head. Sew side seams, leaving the top edge open. Stuff the lower body firmly, then taper to lighter stuffing at the neck opening. The body should measure about 4 3/4 inches / 12 cm from cast-on edge to neck.

Bunny Arms

Make 2 in ivory. The arms are slim cylinders with gentle widening at the upper section. Keep the hands softly rounded and the upper arm only lightly stuffed so the cape and dress sleeves drape beautifully.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Rows 2 to 10: stockinette.
4. Row 11: k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
5. Row 12: purl.
6. Rows 13 to 26: stockinette.
7. BO.

Sew seam, stuff lightly, and flatten the top slightly before attaching. Finished arm length is about 4 inches / 10 cm.

Bunny Head

The head is large and softly oval with a slightly narrower chin area. It is made in two shaped pieces and seamed. A centered stitched nose and tiny black eyes create the gentle expression shown in the sample. Careful stuffing and face shaping matter more than speed here.

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Head Front

1. CO 14 sts in ivory.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: k1, m1L, k12, m1R, k1. 16 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k14, m1R, k1. 18 sts.
6. Row 5: purl.
7. Row 6: k1, m1L, k16, m1R, k1. 20 sts.
8. Row 7: purl.
9. Row 8: k1, m1L, k18, m1R, k1. 22 sts.
10. Rows 9 to 26: stockinette, ending with WS row.
11. Row 27: k1, ssk, k16, k2tog, k1. 20 sts.
12. Row 28: purl.
13. Row 29: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
14. Row 30: purl.
15. Row 31: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
16. Row 32: purl.
17. Row 33: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
18. BO.

Head Back

Work the same as Head Front.

Sew side seams and top seam, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff firmly but smoothly. The finished head should be about 4 inches / 10 cm tall and slightly wider than the neck and torso.

Muzzle Shaping and Face Embroidery

Use matching ivory yarn for subtle sculpting before adding the eyes and nose. Run a long doll needle from the neck opening to the center face and take a small horizontal stitch about 3/4 inch / 2 cm wide. Pull gently to create the soft muzzle ridge seen in the image.

• Place eyes about 9 rows below the top of the head.
• Space eyes 7 stitches apart.
• Use small vertical satin stitches or French-knot style ovals in black embroidery thread.
• Embroider the nose with brown-taupe thread: one small inverted triangle about 3 stitches wide.
• Add a short straight line downward from the nose, then a tiny split mouth on each side.

The expression should stay minimal. Do not overwork the features. The sample’s charm comes from tiny, restrained facial embroidery.

Ears

Make 2 in ivory. These are long, flat, softly stuffed ears that fall down the sides of the bonnet. They are slightly wider at the base and narrow gently toward a rounded tip.

1. CO 9 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: k1, m1L, k7, m1R, k1. 11 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Rows 4 to 30: stockinette.
6. Row 31: k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1. 9 sts.
7. Row 32: purl.
8. Row 33: k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1. 7 sts.
9. Row 34: purl.
10. Row 35: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. 5 sts.
11. Row 36: purl.
12. Row 37: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
13. Row 38: p3tog. 1 st.
14. Fasten off.

Sew each ear seam. Add only a whisper of stuffing in the base, leaving the rest flat. Attach at the upper side edges of the head so they hang down and frame the face.

Dress

The dress is a separate garment. It has a softly flared skirt, plain fitted upper section, and a deep embroidered border concentrated across the front lower half. The dress is intentionally simple in knitting structure so the surface embroidery becomes the focal point.

Dress Front

1. CO 40 sts in ivory on US 3 needles.
2. Rows 1 to 6: k every row for garter hem.
3. Row 7 (WS): purl.
4. Row 8: k2, k2tog, k34, ssk, k2. 38 sts.
5. Row 9: purl.
6. Row 10: knit.
7. Repeat Rows 9 and 10 three times more.
8. Next RS row: k2, k2tog, k32, ssk, k2. 36 sts.
9. Work 6 rows even.
10. Next RS row: k2, k2tog, k30, ssk, k2. 34 sts.
11. Work 6 rows even.
12. Next RS row: k2, k2tog, k28, ssk, k2. 32 sts.
13. Work 8 rows even.
14. Shape armholes, Row 1: BO 3 sts, knit to end. 29 sts.
15. Row 2: BO 3 sts, purl to end. 26 sts.
16. Row 3: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
17. Row 4: p1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1. 22 sts.
18. Work 8 rows even.
19. BO.

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Dress Back

Make 2 mirrored halves so the dress can open at the back.

1. CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: knit every row.
3. Row 7 (WS): purl.
4. Row 8: k2, k2tog, k16, ssk, k2. 20 sts.
5. Work as for Dress Front, making the same decreases at the same intervals until 17 sts remain.
6. Shape armhole at side edge only: BO 3 sts once, then dec 1 st at armhole edge on next 2 RS rows.
7. Work straight until piece matches front.
8. BO.

Sew shoulder seams and side seams. Back opening may be closed with two tiny snaps or hidden whipstitches after dressing the bunny.

Front Floral Embroidery for Dress

This is the most visually important detail after the face. Use white yarn for flower heads and muted green for stems and foliage. Keep the flowers concentrated across the front lower skirt, rising toward the center, leaving the upper dress plain.

• Mark a central floral area about 4 1/2 inches wide and 2 3/4 inches tall.
• Work three main white umbels across the lower center.
• Add one smaller cluster to the upper right and one medium cluster to the lower left.
• Use detached chain stitches, tiny straight stitches, and French knots for the flower texture.
• Work green fern-like leaves with straight stitches branching outward from each stem.
• Keep the edge flowers dense and airy rather than solidly filled.

To echo the image, the embroidery should appear lush but still delicate. Let a few stems trail outward. Avoid placing flowers too close to the side seams. The concentration belongs at the center front.

Capelet

The capelet sits high around the neck and shoulders and has a softly scalloped lower edge. It opens at the front with a narrow center gap. The stitch texture in the sample looks smooth and refined, so the capelet is worked simply, then edged with small picot-style points.

1. CO 52 sts in ivory on US 2 needles.
2. Rows 1 to 4: knit every row.
3. Row 5 (RS): k2, yo, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, yo, k2.
4. Row 6: knit.
5. Rows 7 to 18: stockinette with RS knit, WS purl.
6. Row 19 (RS decrease): k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 50 sts.
7. Row 20: purl.
8. Repeat Rows 19 and 20 four more times. 42 sts.
9. Rows 29 to 32: knit every row.

Picot bind-off: BO 2 sts, return 1 st to left needle, CO 2 sts cable method, BO 4 sts, return 1 st to left needle, rep across. This creates the tiny pointed edging visible at the lower edge of the capelet.

Sew a tiny hidden securing stitch near the neckline if needed, but leave the front lower opening visible. The cape should sit like a rounded petal collar over the dress shoulders.

Bonnet

The bonnet is a kerchief-style head covering with a face-framing front band and long side ear coverage. It should fit close to the head, not like a loose hat. Embroidered green leaf accents are added on the outer side panels exactly as in the sample.

Main Bonnet Piece

1. CO 46 sts in ivory on US 2 needles.
2. Rows 1 to 6: knit every row for garter border.
3. Rows 7 to 22: stockinette.
4. Row 23 (RS): k2, k2tog, k38, ssk, k2. 44 sts.
5. Row 24: purl.
6. Row 25: k2, k2tog, k36, ssk, k2. 42 sts.
7. Row 26: purl.
8. Rows 27 to 32: stockinette.
9. Row 33: k2, k2tog, k34, ssk, k2. 40 sts.
10. Row 34: purl.
11. Row 35: k2, k2tog, k32, ssk, k2. 38 sts.
12. Row 36: purl.
13. Rows 37 to 42: stockinette.
14. BO.

Front Face Band

Pick up and knit 44 sts evenly along one long edge. Work 6 rows in knit stitch. BO loosely. This forms the padded face-framing band visible in the image.

Back Shaping

Bring short edges together and seam only the top back third to create a shallow bonnet curve. The lower section stays open to sit around the head and ears. Tack the bonnet lightly to the head after the ears are positioned.

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Bonnet Embroidery

• Using green yarn, embroider 3 small leaf motifs on each side panel.
• Each motif should be about 3/8 inch / 1 cm long.
• Use paired detached chain stitches or tiny satin leaves.
• Keep them near the outer curved edge, not close to the face opening.

Blue Mary Jane Shoes

The blue shoes are an essential contrast detail. They cover the front of the feet and feature narrow crossing straps over the instep with a small side button. Make 2 in deep denim blue on US 2 needles.

Sole

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Rows 4 to 10: stockinette.

Upper

1. Row 11 (RS): k3, ssk, k2, k2tog, k3. 10 sts.
2. Row 12: purl.
3. Row 13: knit.
4. Row 14: purl.
5. Row 15: k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2. 8 sts.
6. Row 16: purl.
7. Rows 17 to 20: stockinette.
8. BO.

Sew the back seam and shape over the knitted foot. For the crossing straps, make 2 cords per shoe, each about 3 inches / 7.5 cm long. Use i-cord over 2 sts or crochet chain if preferred. Cross them over the front and anchor at side edges. Add one tiny decorative button at the outer side of each shoe.

Satchel

The satchel is a soft ivory shoulder bag with a folded triangular flap and a narrow strap. It hangs at the bunny’s left side in the image. The scale should be small and sweet, not oversized.

1. CO 14 sts in ivory.
2. Rows 1 to 18: knit every row.
3. BO.

Fold the rectangle so the lower section forms the pouch and the upper section folds down as the flap. Sew side seams for the pouch. For the flap point, stitch the center of the folded flap slightly downward to form a gentle envelope shape.

Make a strap using a 2-stitch i-cord about 10 inches / 25 cm long. Sew the strap to each side of the pouch. Add a tiny decorative French knot or seed bead at the flap tip if desired, but the sample looks very understated, so simple is best.

Bouquet

The bouquet should resemble airy white umbel flowers such as Queen Anne’s lace. It is tucked in the bunny’s left arm. Use a combination of thread-wrapped stems and tiny flower clusters for a natural look.

• Cut 7 to 9 floral wire pieces or use firm yarn stems about 3 1/2 inches / 9 cm long.
• Wrap stems with green floss or green yarn.
• Make tiny flower tops from white French knots, seed stitches, or small gathered yarn tufts.
• Cluster 3 larger stems and 4 to 6 smaller filler stems.
• Bind together with green thread and trim to fit the bunny’s hand area.

If you prefer an all-yarn version, knot small loops of white yarn, trim lightly, and stitch them to stem tops. The bouquet should stay airy and irregular rather than compact like a rose bunch.

Miniature Hedgehog

The hedgehog sits beside the bunny and wears a tiny ivory collar bonnet that echoes the main capelet. Its body is small, rounded, and slightly pear-shaped. The face is taupe, the back is brown, and the embroidered features are tiny and neat.

Hedgehog Belly and Face

1. CO 8 sts in taupe.
2. Row 1 (WS): purl.
3. Row 2: k1, m1L, k6, m1R, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: purl.
5. Row 4: k1, m1L, k8, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 12: stockinette.
7. Row 13: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
8. Row 14: purl.
9. Row 15: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. BO.

Hedgehog Back

Using brown, work exactly as Hedgehog Belly and Face.

Sew pieces together, leaving lower edge open. Stuff firmly. Close the base. Add a slightly pointed nose by placing a tiny gathering stitch at the front tip.

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Hedgehog Feet

Make four tiny nub feet by stitching brown yarn knots or embroidery-satin bumps at the underside corners. In the sample they are very subtle, so avoid bulky legs.

Hedgehog Face

• Eyes: 2 tiny black dots embroidered 3 stitches apart.
• Nose: 1 small navy-black or brown-black satin stitch at the tip.
• Mouth: optional one tiny straight stitch under the nose.

Mini Hedgehog Collar Bonnet

This tiny accessory mirrors the bunny’s capelet and makes the companion match perfectly. Use ivory.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: knit.
3. Rows 4 to 8: stockinette.
4. Row 9: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 16 sts.
5. Row 10: purl.
6. Rows 11 to 12: knit.
7. BO with a gentle picot-style edge or plain BO if preferred.

Wrap around the hedgehog neck and tack closed at the front sides, leaving a tiny center opening just like the bunny’s capelet.

Assembly Order

Following the correct order makes it much easier to achieve the same neat silhouette shown in the image. Do not fully dress the bunny until the head, limbs, and ears are securely attached and balanced.

1. Sew and stuff both legs.
2. Sew and stuff body.
3. Attach legs low on body front so they dangle evenly.
4. Sew and stuff arms.
5. Make and stuff head.
6. Attach ears to head.
7. Join head to neck opening with ladder stitch.
8. Attach arms high on each side, just below neck line.
9. Dress bunny in embroidered dress.
10. Add blue shoes and stitch lightly in place.
11. Place capelet over dress.
12. Fit bonnet and tack invisibly.
13. Add satchel over one shoulder.
14. Place bouquet in left arm and stitch discreetly.
15. Finish hedgehog and place at bunny’s right side.

Proportion Notes for a Close Visual Match

To reproduce the photographed style, keep the head relatively large compared to the body. The body should not be too wide. The lower skirt must flare gently over the seated form without becoming stiff. The arms should end around the upper skirt level, and the ears should fall nearly to the lower edge of the capelet.

• Head: about 1.2 times the width of the neck opening.
• Ears: long enough to reach the cape edge when hanging.
• Legs: slim, straight, and slightly longer than the visible torso under the dress.
• Shoes: fitted, not oversized.
• Capelet: short and rounded, ending above the floral embroidery.
• Bonnet: close-fitting and softly structured.

Helpful Finishing Tips

Steam-block garment pieces very lightly before sewing, but do not over-block toy body parts. Overly stretched stockinette loses the plump handmade quality seen in the sample. For the face, step back often and compare both eye positions before knotting off any embroidery thread.

When attaching the dress, let the lower hem spread naturally in a seated pose. A tiny hidden tack at the center back can keep the dress balanced. The bouquet can be permanently stitched in place if the doll is intended as decor rather than a child’s toy.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

• Check that both eyes sit level and remain very small.
• Keep the nose centered and lightly stitched, never bulky.
• Pull the bonnet forward just enough to frame the face softly.
• Angle the ears under the bonnet so they fall symmetrically.
• Position the hedgehog close to the bunny’s right side for the same storybook look.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight.
• Avoid machine washing because of stuffing, embroidery, and shaping.
• Handle the bouquet and bonnet gently.
• Spot clean only unless a full hand wash is absolutely necessary.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the legs the same length and evenly attached?
• Do the shoes sit at matching angles?
• Is the floral embroidery centered and balanced?
• Does the capelet end above the embroidered skirt area?
• Is the bonnet fitted snugly without hiding the face?
• Does the satchel hang naturally at one side?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

• Dust regularly with a soft dry brush.
• For marks, use a barely damp cloth and blot gently.
• If storing long term, wrap in acid-free tissue and keep in a breathable cotton bag.
• Do not compress the ears, bouquet, or embroidered dress front during storage.
• Keep away from moisture, moth exposure, and prolonged heat.