Knitting Tutorial: The Highland Lassie Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming bunny is dressed like a tiny Highland lass, with a soft cream sweater, pleated tartan skirt, beret with pom-pom, lace-up shoes, flower, and a furry little pouch. It is the kind of heirloom-style toy people often search for when looking for a handmade knitted bunny doll, Scottish bunny decor, nursery gift, collectible stuffed rabbit, or luxury artisan knit toy. The finished piece is sweet, cozy, and display-worthy, yet still approachable for careful beginners who enjoy shaping, seaming, and dressing a knitted soft toy with polished details.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the bunny shown in the photo as closely as possible, including the proportions, clothing layers, and accessories. The rabbit has a slightly oversized head, a narrow neck, a soft pear-shaped torso, slim dangling legs, short tapered arms, long folded ears, and a calm stitched face.

The outfit is made in separate knitted pieces so the structure stays neat and the silhouette remains crisp. The sweater is textured and close-fitting. The skirt flares strongly from the waist. The beret sits tilted and wide. The pouch sits low at the front. The flower is small but important.

Most pieces are knitted flat and seamed. That makes the shaping easier to control and helps match the exact angles visible in the picture. The only exception is the pom-pom, which is made separately and attached after the beret is finished.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light worsted or DK weight in warm cream or oatmeal
• Sweater yarn: same cream as bunny body
• Skirt and beret yarns: deep red, moss green, and a little brown or muted charcoal for plaid effect
• Shoe yarn: dark brown
• Flower yarn: purple and green
• Pouch: brown yarn plus a small tuft of faux fur or brushed yarn for trim
• Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) for body and clothing, US 1 (2.25 mm) if you knit loosely
• Stuffing: polyester toy stuffing
• Notions: tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, sewing needle, black embroidery floss, optional tiny amount of brown embroidery thread

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge: 28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 2 needles after light blocking.

Finished size: about 13 inches tall from top of beret to bottom of feet, with the seated body itself measuring about 9 1/2 inches. Body width at widest point is about 3 inches. Head width is about 2 3/4 inches. Skirt diameter when spread flat is about 5 1/2 inches.

Matching gauge matters because the outfit is fitted. If your stitches are looser, the sweater may look slouchy and the face may broaden. If your stitches are tighter, the skirt may lose its flare and the beret may look too stiff.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• inc = increase 1 stitch by kfb unless stated otherwise
• dec = decrease 1 stitch by ssk at beginning of knit rows or k2tog at end when shaping is specified

General Notes Before You Start

The bunny in the photo has smooth, fine stitches and a firm but not hard shape. Stuff the head firmly so the face stays rounded. Stuff the body more gently so the seated posture looks soft. The arms and legs should be lightly stuffed so they hang naturally.

Use mattress stitch for most seams. When attaching the head, pull the seam snugly so the neck stays narrow. When attaching the ears, do not place them too high. They should begin slightly behind the side line of the head and fall straight downward.

The facial expression depends on very small placement adjustments. Keep the eyes modest and close-set. The nose is stitched low on the face, and the mouth is a short split line beneath it. Do not overwork the features.

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The Bunny Head

Make 2 Head Pieces

Each head side is worked flat from the neck edge upward. The shaping creates the softly rounded cheek and forehead visible in the image. Make two identical pieces.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): P all sts.
3. Row 2: K all sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. 16 sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K1, kfb, K12, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
8. Row 7: P all sts.
9. Row 8: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
10. Rows 9 through 13: Work 5 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
11. Row 14: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
12. Row 15: P all sts.
13. Rows 16 through 21: Work 6 rows in St st.
14. Row 22: K1, ssk, K16, k2tog, K1. 20 sts.
15. Row 23: P all sts.
16. Row 24: K1, ssk, K14, k2tog, K1. 18 sts.
17. Row 25: P all sts.
18. Row 26: K1, ssk, K12, k2tog, K1. 16 sts.
19. Row 27: P all sts.
20. Row 28: K1, ssk, K10, k2tog, K1. 14 sts.
21. Row 29: P all sts.
22. Row 30: K1, ssk, K8, k2tog, K1. 12 sts.
23. Row 31: P all sts.
24. Row 32: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. 10 sts.
25. Row 33: P all sts.
26. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Place the two pieces together with right sides facing outward. Sew around the curved top and back of head, leaving the neck edge open. Turn if needed so the neat side faces out, then stuff firmly, shaping the cheeks and crown evenly.

The Bunny Muzzle Shaping and Neck Finish

The image shows a head that is simple rather than strongly sculpted. That means you do not need a separate muzzle piece. Instead, use stuffing placement and a little thread sculpting to create a gentle face plane.

• After stuffing, run a strand of matching cream yarn inside the head horizontally from one cheek area to the other, about 1 inch above the neck opening.
• Pull lightly to create the slightest inward shaping beneath the eye line.
• Do not pull hard. The face should stay soft and round.

Gather the neck edge slightly by weaving the yarn tail through the open neck stitches. Pull just enough to reduce the opening to about 1 1/4 inches across. Do not close completely, because you still need to attach it to the body.

The Body

Make 2 Body Pieces

The body is slim at the top, fuller at the lower middle, and then slightly narrowed at the base. This helps the rabbit sit on an edge while the skirt spreads around it. Make two identical body pieces.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): P all sts.
3. Row 2: K all sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K12, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
8. Rows 7 through 11: Work 5 rows in St st.
9. Row 12: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
10. Rows 13 through 19: Work 7 rows in St st.
11. Row 20: K1, kfb, K18, kfb, K1. 24 sts.
12. Rows 21 through 31: Work 11 rows in St st.
13. Row 32: K1, ssk, K18, k2tog, K1. 22 sts.
14. Row 33: P all sts.
15. Row 34: K1, ssk, K16, k2tog, K1. 20 sts.
16. Rows 35 through 39: Work 5 rows in St st.
17. Row 40: K1, ssk, K14, k2tog, K1. 18 sts.
18. Row 41: P all sts.
19. Row 42: K all sts.
20. BO knitwise on Row 43.

Sew the body pieces together along sides and base, leaving the neck open. Stuff the lower body moderately, then reduce stuffing toward the upper chest. Flatten the base slightly with your fingers so it sits better when posed.

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Legs

Make 2 Legs

The legs are long, slim, and lightly shaped. The feet are covered by separate shoes, so the knitted leg itself stays simple. The finished legs should dangle below the skirt and extend well beyond the hem.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 18: Work in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 19: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
4. Row 20: P all sts.
5. Rows 21 through 24: Work 4 rows in St st.
6. Row 25: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. 10 sts.
7. Row 26: P all sts.
8. Rows 27 through 30: Work 4 rows in St st.
9. BO.

Fold each leg lengthwise and sew the seam. Stuff very lightly from top to ankle, leaving the lower foot area almost flat. This will help the shoe sit close to the foot instead of looking bulky.

Arms

Make 2 Arms

The arms in the image are slim and softly tapered with rounded mitten-like ends. They are attached at a low shoulder angle so they rest naturally beside the torso, with one arm holding the flower.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 4: Work 4 rows in St st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 5: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. 10 sts.
4. Row 6: P all sts.
5. Rows 7 through 16: Work 10 rows in St st.
6. Row 17: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. 8 sts.
7. Row 18: P all sts.
8. Rows 19 through 22: Work 4 rows in St st.
9. BO.

Sew each arm into a narrow tube. Stuff lightly, especially near the hand end. Flatten the top half a little before attaching so the arm lies close against the sweater.

Ears

Make 2 Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and droop downward without standing up. Each ear is worked flat and shaped to a rounded tip. Because the beret sits low, the ears are attached behind the hat line and hang freely.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): P all sts.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: K all sts.
6. Row 5: P all sts.
7. Row 6: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
8. Rows 7 through 21: Work 15 rows in St st.
9. Row 22: K1, ssk, K6, k2tog, K1. 10 sts.
10. Row 23: P all sts.
11. Row 24: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. 8 sts.
12. Row 25: P all sts.
13. Row 26: K1, ssk, K2, k2tog, K1. 6 sts.
14. Row 27: P all sts.
15. Row 28: K1, k2tog, K2, ssk, K1. 4 sts.
16. Row 29: P all sts.
17. Row 30: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
18. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Fold each ear lengthwise and seam along the edge, leaving the cast-on end open. Do not stuff. Steam lightly if needed so the ears lie smooth and narrow.

Tail

The tail is hidden by the skirt and body position, but adding one helps the toy look complete. Make a tiny tail and attach low at the back center of the body.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in St st.
3. Cut yarn, thread through live sts, draw up tightly, seam side, and stuff with a pea-sized amount of filling.

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The Sweater

Back

The sweater is cream, close-fitting, and textured. A simple mock cable panel gives the visual depth seen in the photo without making the piece too bulky for a toy. The back is plain stockinette with ribbing.

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 5: K1, P1 rib across all rows.
3. Row 6 (RS): K all sts.
4. Rows 7 through 19: Work in St st.
5. Row 20: BO 2 sts at beginning of row, K to end.
6. Row 21: BO 2 sts at beginning of row, P to end. 16 sts.
7. Rows 22 through 29: Work in St st.
8. Row 30: K5, BO 6 sts, K to end.
9. Row 31: P5, CO 6 sts, P5. 16 sts.
10. Rows 32 through 35: Work in St st.
11. BO.

Front

The front uses a central rope-like texture to echo the sweater in the image. This version uses a beginner-friendly cable rhythm. If you prefer, you may cross the stitches with a cable needle. The panel should stay narrow and centered.

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 5: K1, P1 rib across all rows.
3. Row 6 (RS): K6, P2, K4, P2, K6.
4. Row 7: P6, K2, P4, K2, P6.
5. Row 8: K6, P2, K4, P2, K6.
6. Row 9: P6, K2, P4, K2, P6.
7. Row 10: K6, P2, C4F, P2, K6.
8. Row 11: P6, K2, P4, K2, P6.
9. Rows 12 through 19: Rep Rows 6 through 11, then Rows 6 through 7.
10. Row 20: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end.
11. Row 21: BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. 16 sts.
12. Rows 22 through 25: Work in pattern.
13. Row 26: K6, P2, C4F, P2, K6.
14. Rows 27 through 29: Work in pattern.
15. Row 30: K5, BO 6 sts, work to end.
16. Row 31: Work in pattern across, keeping center neck opening.
17. Rows 32 through 35: Work both shoulders separately if preferred, or close neck as for back with a neat edge if you want a pullover look.
18. BO.

Sleeves

Make 2. The sleeves are slim and slightly cropped, ending just above the mitten-like hand. Keep them neat and narrow.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 4: K1, P1 rib.
3. Row 5: K all sts.
4. Row 6: P all sts.
5. Row 7: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
6. Rows 8 through 16: Work in St st.
7. BO.

Turtleneck Collar

The collar is a separate ribbed strip. This gives the raised cozy neck visible in the photo and makes it easier to fit neatly after the head is attached.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 8: K1, P1 rib.
3. BO loosely in rib.

Sew sweater shoulder seams. Attach sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Fit onto bunny before final seaming at the back if needed. Sew collar into a ring, then stitch around neckline so it folds softly upward.

The Tartan Skirt

The skirt is wide and circular in feel, though shaped as a gathered knitted tube. The plaid effect is made with narrow stripes and a few duplicate-stitch bars after knitting. This gives a cleaner scale for a small toy.

Skirt Waistband

1. With dark red, CO 56 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 4: K1, P1 rib.

Skirt Body

1. Row 5 (RS): K all sts, increasing evenly by 12 sts across row. 68 sts.
2. Row 6: P all sts.
3. Rows 7 and 8: Work in dark red St st.
4. Rows 9 and 10: Change to moss green, work 2 rows in St st.
5. Rows 11 through 14: Change to dark red, work 4 rows.
6. Rows 15 and 16: Change to moss green, work 2 rows.
7. Rows 17 through 22: Change to dark red, work 6 rows.
8. Row 23: K all sts, increasing evenly by 10 sts. 78 sts.
9. Row 24: P all sts.
10. Rows 25 and 26: Moss green, 2 rows.
11. Rows 27 through 32: Dark red, 6 rows.
12. Rows 33 and 34: Moss green, 2 rows.
13. Rows 35 through 40: Dark red, 6 rows.
14. BO loosely.

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Sew side seam. Run a gathering thread just below the waistband if needed and pull gently so the skirt sits close at the waist but flares strongly beneath. The hem should spread into a soft bell shape like the photo.

To complete the plaid look, use duplicate stitch with moss green and muted brown to add a few vertical lines spaced around the skirt. Keep them narrow and irregularly balanced, not dense. The photo suggests a soft tartan impression rather than a sharply graphic plaid.

The Beret

The hat is wide, softly slouched, and angled. It has a brim-like lower band and a red pom-pom centered near the top. The crown should be broad enough to sit low over the bunny’s head and partly cover the ear attachment point.

Beret Center and Crown

1. With dark red, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: Work in St st.
3. Row 3: Kfb in each st. 16 sts.
4. Row 4: P all sts.
5. Row 5: K1, kfb to last st, K1. 30 sts.
6. Row 6: P all sts.
7. Row 7: K2, kfb to last 2 sts, K2. 56 sts.
8. Row 8: P all sts.
9. Rows 9 and 10: Moss green St st.
10. Rows 11 and 12: Dark red St st.
11. Rows 13 and 14: Moss green St st.
12. Rows 15 through 20: Dark red St st.

Beret Shaping Down to Band

1. Row 21 (RS): K6, k2tog across row. 49 sts.
2. Row 22: P all sts.
3. Row 23: K5, k2tog across row. 42 sts.
4. Row 24: P all sts.
5. Row 25: K4, k2tog across row. 35 sts.
6. Row 26: P all sts.
7. Rows 27 through 30: K1, P1 rib.
8. BO loosely in rib.

Sew the side seam to form the beret. The crown should remain broad and slightly puffy. Add a small circle of duplicate-stitch plaid lines if desired, but keep the hat softer and less busy than the skirt.

Pom-Pom

Make a dense pom-pom in dark red about 1 1/4 inches across. Trim neatly and sew firmly to the beret top. The pom-pom in the image is full and round, not wispy.

Shoes

The shoes are dark brown Mary Jane-style slippers with crisscross laces or straps climbing around the ankle. They are worked as tiny wrap-style pieces over the knitted feet, then tied with cord.

Make 2 Shoe Soles/Tops

1. With dark brown, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 through 8: Work 4 rows in St st.
7. Row 9: K1, ssk, K4, k2tog, K1. 8 sts.
8. Row 10: P all sts.
9. BO.

Sew each piece around the base of the foot to form a rounded little shoe. Make two long cords of dark brown yarn, about 8 inches each. Wrap them across the front and around the ankle in a crossed sandal style, then knot discreetly at the back or side.

Flower

The flower is small, upright, and held in one paw. The stem and leaves are green, and the bloom is purple. Keep it small enough that it does not hide the sweater front.

Stem

• Cut a 4-inch piece of floral wire or use a doubled strand of green yarn.
• Wrap with green yarn.

Leaves

1. With green, CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: P all sts.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K1, kfb. 5 sts.
4. Row 3: P all sts.
5. Row 4: Ssk, K1, k2tog. 3 sts.
6. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Make 2 leaves and stitch them around the lower flower head.

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Flower Head

1. With purple, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 4: Work in garter stitch.
3. BO.

Roll the strip into a tiny tufted bloom and sew the base. Attach to stem top. Stitch leaves beneath the bloom. The flower should sit upright in the paw with the bloom just below the sweater neckline level.

Fur Pouch

The pouch is a tiny brown flap bag with a furry body. In the image it hangs at the front center-right of the skirt. You can use faux fur fabric, brushed yarn, or fluffy novelty yarn for the lower pouch section.

Pouch Flap

1. With brown, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 through 5: Work in garter stitch.
3. Row 6: K2tog, K4, k2tog. 6 sts.
4. Row 7: Knit.
5. BO.

Pouch Body

• Cut a small oval of faux fur about 1 1/4 inches long and 3/4 inch wide.
• Fold lightly and sew the sides to make a soft pocket shape.
• Sew the knitted flap to the top front edge.
• Use brown yarn to make a narrow strap about 5 inches long and attach at both top sides.

If you do not have faux fur, brush a small knitted brown oval with a pet slicker brush until fluffy. Keep the pouch proportionally small. It should look like an accent, not a main feature.

Assembly Order

Following this order helps the clothing sit correctly and keeps the body balanced.

1. Sew and stuff the head.
2. Sew and stuff the body.
3. Attach head to body with the neck centered and slightly tucked downward.
4. Attach ears to the head, slightly behind the vertical midpoint of each side.
5. Sew legs to lower front of body so they dangle freely.
6. Sew tail at back.
7. Dress bunny in sweater.
8. Attach arms over sweater seams at a downward angle.
9. Add skirt at waist and stitch securely.
10. Add shoes and lace wraps.
11. Place beret at a slight tilt toward one side.
12. Attach flower to one paw.
13. Add pouch over skirt front.

Positioning Details for a Close Match to the Image

The head should be a little larger than the torso width, but not dramatically oversized. The neck should look narrow because of the tall sweater collar. The body should taper gently from skirt line to shoulders. The legs should begin under the skirt, not from the side seams.

The arms should be attached low enough that the shoulders do not look square. Angle them slightly forward. One arm can be stitched with a subtle bend so the flower rests inward. The other arm may rest more naturally at the side.

The beret should cover the upper head slightly and sit low enough that the rabbit feels dressed, not bare between ears and hat. Allow one ear to disappear partially behind the beret edge if needed for the closest visual result.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Use small black beads or French knots for the eyes, placing them about 7 stitches apart and slightly above the mid-face line. Stitch a tiny inverted Y nose and mouth with dark brown or black thread. Keep the nose narrow and delicate.

For the face, add only the faintest suggestion of a muzzle split. Do not add cheeks, blush, lashes, or extra embroidery. The expression in the image is simple, calm, and old-fashioned. A tiny downward tug beneath the nose line helps create the same gentle look.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• If full cleaning is needed, remove surface dust first and hand wash gently in cool water.
• Do not wring the toy.
• Reshape while damp and dry flat away from direct heat.
• Brush faux fur on the pouch only after fully dry.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head stuffed firmly and body stuffed softly
• Ears attached low and hanging straight
• Sweater collar folded neatly upward
• Skirt gathered enough to flare well
• Beret tilted and pom-pom centered
• Shoes wrapped with crossed ankle ties
• Flower small and upright
• Pouch hanging low at the front
• Eyes close-set and nose stitched delicately

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished bunny away from prolonged sunlight to prevent fading, especially on the red and green tartan pieces. Avoid hanging the toy by the hat or arms. For long-term display, support it in a seated position and keep it in a dry room.

If you plan to gift or sell the finished bunny, add a small tissue wrap around the beret pom-pom and flower during storage or shipping so they keep their shape. A quick steam near, but not directly on, the skirt can refresh the flare after packing.