This sweet knitted bunny is designed to match the photo as closely as possible, with a softly shaped head, long lop ears, striped sleeves, a rust pinafore dress, a fox bonnet, little black boots, a duck bag, and a tiny berry basket. It makes a beautiful handmade gift, nursery decor piece, collectible soft toy, or boutique-style knitted doll for shoppers looking for heirloom bunny toys, hand knit stuffed animals, woodland nursery gifts, and seasonal fox bunny decor.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English and is built to reproduce the proportions visible in the image: a slightly large rounded head, narrow neck, slim body, long seated legs, small hands, elongated lop ears, a short rust dress, a fox-style hood with upright ears, a yellow duck purse, and separate black boots.
The bunny itself is knitted mostly in the round for a smooth finish. The clothing and accessories are worked separately so the final doll looks layered, just like the reference image. The shaping is gentle rather than exaggerated, which helps the finished toy keep the calm, handmade look shown in the photo.
The instructions below are intentionally detailed. Every piece includes stitch counts, shaping rows, and assembly guidance so the finished toy keeps the same silhouette: compact torso, relaxed arms, dangling legs, and a slightly forward-looking head with simple embroidered features.
Finished Size
- Standing height: about 11 to 12 inches / 28 to 30 cm
- Seated height: about 9 inches / 23 cm
- Head width: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm
- Body width at widest point: about 2 inches / 5 cm
- Ear length: about 3 3/4 inches / 9.5 cm
- Dress length from underarm to hem: about 3 inches / 7.5 cm
- Bonnet height from face edge to crown: about 2 3/4 inches / 7 cm
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: light fingering or very fine sport weight in warm beige
- Dress and bonnet yarn: rust / fox orange
- Bonnet trim yarn: cream
- Sleeve stripe yarn: dark brown and cream
- Boot yarn: black or very deep charcoal
- Duck purse yarn: mustard yellow
- Purse strap and small tie: golden yellow or tan
- Berry basket yarn: medium brown
- Berries: black or deep purple yarn scraps
- Needles: US 1 / 2.25 mm double-pointed needles or long circular for magic loop
- Optional smaller needles: US 0 / 2 mm for very firm accessories
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Waste yarn
- Black embroidery floss or black yarn for eyes and mouth
- Strong sewing thread for extra-secure assembly if desired
Gauge
Gauge is less important than firm fabric, but it matters for matching the photographed proportions. Work tightly so stuffing does not show through.
- 28 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using 2.25 mm needles
If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. A dense toy fabric is essential for getting the compact, polished shape visible in the image.
Abbreviations
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
- dec = decrease
- inc = increase 1 stitch by knitting into front and back of stitch
- K = knit
- K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- M1 = make 1 increase
- P = purl
- pm = place marker
- rem = remaining
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
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Important Construction Notes
The bunny is made from the legs upward, then joined into the body. The head is shaped directly from the body so the neck stays neat and narrow. Arms are sewn on later. Ears are knitted separately and attached after the bonnet is complete.
The body in the photo is slim rather than round. Do not overstuff the torso. The head is fuller than the body, and the lower face is slightly narrower than the cheeks. This difference in stuffing helps create the same gentle character seen in the image.
The legs are long and soft so they hang naturally over a table edge. The feet are covered by separate black boots, which makes the lower legs look slim and elongated. That detail is important to the silhouette, so do not substitute one-piece black feet if you want the same look.
Bunny Legs Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 12 sts. Divide evenly for working in the round. Join carefully.
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: K1, M1, K5, M1, K1, M1, K5, M1. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: Knit.
- Rnd 4: K2, M1, K6, M1, K2, M1, K6, M1. 20 sts.
- Rnd 5-8: Knit 4 rounds.
The upper leg in the image is slim, so after the initial foot shaping, the tube narrows quickly.
- Rnd 9: K2tog, K6, ssk, K2tog, K6, ssk. 16 sts.
- Rnd 10: Knit.
- Rnd 11: K1, K2tog, K4, ssk, K1, K2tog, K4, ssk. 12 sts.
- Rnd 12-30: Knit 19 rounds.
Stuff the foot firmly and the leg only lightly. The leg should stay flexible.
- Rnd 31: K1, M1 around 6 times. 18 sts.
- Rnd 32-34: Knit 3 rounds.
Break yarn on first leg and place stitches on hold. Make the second leg the same, but do not break yarn after Round 34.
Joining the Legs and Lower Body
Knit across the second leg. CO 4 sts for the center between legs. Knit across held stitches of first leg. CO 4 sts for back center. You now have 44 sts total.
Place a marker at the beginning of round. The side seams should fall along the outside of each leg.
- Rnd 1-4: Knit 4 rounds.
- Rnd 5: K20, K2tog, K2tog, K18, K2tog, K2tog. 40 sts.
- Rnd 6-10: Knit 5 rounds.
- Rnd 11: K8, K2tog, K10, ssk, K8, K2tog, K10, ssk. 36 sts.
- Rnd 12-18: Knit 7 rounds.
The torso remains narrow, with only a slight waist. Do not widen it too much.
- Rnd 19: K6, M1, K12, M1, K6, M1, K12, M1. 40 sts.
- Rnd 20-24: Knit 5 rounds.
- Rnd 25: K8, K2tog, K8, ssk, K8, K2tog, K8, ssk. 36 sts.
- Rnd 26-28: Knit 3 rounds.
Begin stuffing the body. Keep the lower body softly filled. The image shows a seated doll with gentle drape, not a stiff cylinder.
Upper Body and Neck
- Rnd 29: K3, K2tog, K10, ssk, K3, K3, K2tog, K10, ssk, K3. 32 sts.
- Rnd 30-32: Knit 3 rounds.
- Rnd 33: K2, K2tog, K10, ssk, K2, K2, K2tog, K10, ssk, K2. 28 sts.
- Rnd 34-35: Knit 2 rounds.
The neck must be clearly narrower than the head, just like the photo.
- Rnd 36: K2tog around. 14 sts.
- Rnd 37-39: Knit 3 rounds.
- Rnd 40: K1, M1 around 14 times. 28 sts.
Head
The head is rounded and slightly wider through the cheeks. Build volume gradually.
- Rnd 41: Knit.
- Rnd 42: K3, M1 around 7 times. 35 sts.
- Rnd 43: Knit.
- Rnd 44: K4, M1 around 7 times. 42 sts.
- Rnd 45-54: Knit 10 rounds.
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At this point, begin stuffing the neck firmly so the head will not flop. Continue filling as you work.
- Rnd 55: K5, K2tog around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 56: Knit.
- Rnd 57: K4, K2tog around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 58: Knit.
- Rnd 59: K3, K2tog around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 60: Knit.
Stuff the head firmly, especially the cheeks and crown.
- Rnd 61: K2, K2tog around. 18 sts.
- Rnd 62: K1, K2tog around. 12 sts.
- Rnd 63: K2tog around. 6 sts.
Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and close. Shape the head with your hands so it becomes slightly oval, not perfectly spherical.
Arms Make 2
The arms are narrow and soft. They hang straight down and end just above the dress hem.
Using beige yarn, CO 8 sts and join to work in the round.
- Rnd 1-4: Knit 4 rounds in beige.
Now switch to striped sleeves. The photo shows narrow horizontal stripes, with dark brown and cream alternating from shoulder to wrist area.
- Rnd 5-6: With dark brown, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 7-8: With cream, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 9-10: With dark brown, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 11-12: With cream, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 13-14: With dark brown, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 15-16: With cream, knit 2 rounds.
- Rnd 17-18: With dark brown, knit 2 rounds.
Change back to beige for the hand.
- Rnd 19-21: Knit 3 rounds.
- Rnd 22: K2tog around. 4 sts.
Lightly stuff only the upper half of the arm. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull closed. Flatten the top opening slightly when sewing to body so the arm angles gently downward.
Ears Make 2
The ears are long lop ears with a narrow base and softly rounded end. They hang from beneath the bonnet, with the right ear in the photo slightly more forward than the left.
Using beige yarn, CO 8 sts. Work flat.
- Row 1 RS: Knit.
- Row 2 WS: Purl.
- Row 3: K1, inc, K4, inc, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: K1, inc, K6, inc, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 6: Purl.
- Row 7-24: Work 18 rows in stockinette, beginning with a knit row.
Now taper toward the tip.
- Row 25: K1, ssk, K6, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 26: Purl.
- Row 27: K1, ssk, K4, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
- Row 28: Purl.
- Row 29: K1, ssk, K2, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
- Row 30: Purl.
- Row 31: K1, ssk, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
- Row 32: Purl.
- Row 33: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
BO. Make a second ear. Lightly steam or finger-shape so the ears lie flat. Do not stuff.
Black Boots Make 2
The boots are separate slip-on pieces. They are short, slightly rounded, and end just above the ankle. This keeps the bunny’s legs looking long and delicate, exactly like the image.
Using black yarn, CO 12 sts and join.
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: K1, M1, K5, M1, K1, M1, K5, M1. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3-5: Knit 3 rounds.
- Rnd 6: K2tog, K6, ssk, K2tog, K6, ssk. 12 sts.
- Rnd 7: Knit.
- Rnd 8: K1, K2tog, K2, ssk, K1, K1, K2tog, K2, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
- Rnd 9-14: Knit 6 rounds.
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BO loosely. Make second boot. These boots should fit snugly over the beige feet and lower leg. If desired, sew one tiny stitch at the back of each boot to keep it from sliding off.
Rust Pinafore Dress
The dress in the image is simple and sleeveless, with soft texture, a slightly gathered skirt, and shoulder straps joining at the top. It sits over the striped sleeves and beige neck area. The color is a warm rust, almost fox red-brown.
Using rust yarn, CO 56 sts. Join to work in the round.
- Rnd 1-4: Knit 4 rounds for a softly rolled lower edge.
- Rnd 5: K6, K2tog around. 49 sts.
- Rnd 6-10: Knit 5 rounds.
- Rnd 11: K5, K2tog around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 12-18: Knit 7 rounds.
- Rnd 19: Purl 1 round to create a subtle waist transition.
- Rnd 20-24: Knit 5 rounds.
Now divide for front and back bib shaping.
Front bib uses 14 center front sts. Back uses 14 center back sts. Remaining stitches form armhole edges.
- Next row setup: BO 3 sts, K14 for front, BO 7 sts, K14 for back, BO 7 sts, knit rem 4 sts to complete round placement. Rearrange so front and back are worked separately flat.
Front Bib
- Row 1 RS: Knit 14.
- Row 2 WS: Purl 14.
- Row 3: K1, ssk, K8, K2tog, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: Knit.
- Row 6: Purl.
- Row 7: K1, ssk, K6, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 8: Purl.
- Row 9-12: Work 4 rows in stockinette.
Create straps.
- Row 13 RS: K2, BO 6, K2. 4 sts.
Work each strap separately.
- Left strap rows 14-23: Work 10 rows stockinette on 2 sts, slipping first stitch of every row for neat edges.
- BO left strap.
- Join yarn to right strap and work 10 rows the same way.
- BO right strap.
Back Bib
- Row 1 RS: Knit 14.
- Row 2 WS: Purl 14.
- Row 3: K1, ssk, K8, K2tog, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5-8: Work 4 rows stockinette.
- Row 9: K1, ssk, K6, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 10: Purl.
- Row 11-12: Work 2 rows stockinette.
- BO all 10 sts.
Sew front straps to top back edge so the pinafore sits high on the chest and low on the back, matching the image. The skirt should cover the upper thighs when the bunny is seated.
Fox Bonnet Hood
This hood is one of the most important features of the design. It frames the bunny’s face closely with a cream edge and has two upright fox ears in rust with cream inner ear panels. It should sit low enough to show the forehead and cheeks, but still leave both lop ears visible underneath.
Using cream yarn, CO 42 sts. Work flat.
- Row 1 RS: Knit.
- Row 2 WS: Purl.
- Row 3 RS: Knit.
Switch to rust yarn.
- Row 4 WS: Purl.
- Row 5-18: Work 14 rows in stockinette, beginning with a knit row. 42 sts.
Shape crown.
- Row 19 RS: K1, ssk, K16, K2tog, K2, ssk, K16, K2tog, K1. 38 sts.
- Row 20 WS: Purl.
- Row 21: K1, ssk, K14, K2tog, K2, ssk, K14, K2tog, K1. 34 sts.
- Row 22: Purl.
- Row 23: K1, ssk, K12, K2tog, K2, ssk, K12, K2tog, K1. 30 sts.
- Row 24: Purl.
- Row 25: K1, ssk, K10, K2tog, K2, ssk, K10, K2tog, K1. 26 sts.
- Row 26: Purl.
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Fold bonnet with RS together and sew top seam from crown toward neck edge, leaving face opening open. Try it on the bunny before sewing fully so the fit stays close and neat.
Fox Bonnet Outer Ears Make 2
Using rust yarn, CO 10 sts. Work flat.
- Row 1 RS: Knit.
- Row 2 WS: Purl.
- Row 3: K1, inc, K6, inc, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5-10: Work 6 rows stockinette.
- Row 11: K1, ssk, K6, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
- Row 12: Purl.
- Row 13: K1, ssk, K4, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
- Row 14: Purl.
- Row 15: K1, ssk, K2, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
- Row 16: Purl.
- Row 17: K1, ssk, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
- Row 18: Purl.
- Row 19: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
- BO.
Fox Bonnet Inner Ears Make 2
Using cream yarn, CO 6 sts.
- Row 1 RS: Knit.
- Row 2 WS: Purl.
- Row 3: K1, inc, K2, inc, K1. 8 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5-8: Work 4 rows stockinette.
- Row 9: K1, ssk, K2, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
- Row 10: Purl.
- Row 11: K1, ssk, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
- Row 12: Purl.
- Row 13: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
- BO.
Sew one cream inner ear onto each rust outer ear, centered and slightly lower than the tip. Then fold the bottom of each completed fox ear slightly so it stands upright with a natural inward angle. Sew securely to the bonnet crown.
Bonnet Neck Ties
The bonnet in the image has a simple tie under the chin, with one visible golden tie string. Use rust or golden yarn.
- Make 2 cords, each about 8 inches / 20 cm long, using i-cord on 2 stitches or a firm twisted cord.
- Sew one tie to each lower bonnet edge.
Duck Purse
The duck bag is small, rounded, and cheerful, hanging low against the dress. It is knitted flat in two matching body pieces, then joined. The beak is suggested by shape rather than a separate color, keeping the look simple and sweet like the image.
Using mustard yellow yarn, CO 14 sts. Work flat.
- Row 1 RS: Knit.
- Row 2 WS: Purl.
- Row 3: K1, inc, K10, inc, K1. 16 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: Knit.
- Row 6: Purl.
- Row 7: K1, inc, K12, inc, K1. 18 sts.
- Row 8: Purl.
- Row 9-14: Work 6 rows stockinette.
Shape top.
- Row 15: K1, ssk, K12, K2tog, K1. 16 sts.
- Row 16: Purl.
- Row 17: K1, ssk, K10, K2tog, K1. 14 sts.
- Row 18: Purl.
- Row 19: K1, ssk, K8, K2tog, K1. 12 sts.
- Row 20: Purl.
- BO all sts.
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Make 2 identical pieces. Sew together around edges, leaving the top slightly open or fully closed as you prefer. Lightly stuff with a touch of filling for the rounded look shown in the image.
For the wing, CO 5 sts in mustard yarn.
- Row 1: Knit.
- Row 2: Purl.
- Row 3: K1, inc, K1, inc, K1. 7 sts.
- Row 4: Purl.
- Row 5: Knit.
- BO.
Sew the wing onto the front of the purse. Add one tiny embroidered eye in dark brown or black yarn. Make a cord about 12 inches / 30 cm long and sew to the purse top as the strap.
Berry Basket
The tiny basket adds charm and helps match the photo more closely. It is very small, shallow, and lightly filled with dark berries.
Using brown yarn, CO 8 sts and join.
- Rnd 1: Knit.
- Rnd 2: K1, M1 around 8 times. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: Knit through back loop all around.
- Rnd 4-7: Knit 4 rounds.
- Rnd 8: Purl 1 round.
- BO loosely.
For handle, CO 14 sts as i-cord on 2 stitches or make a twisted cord and sew across opposite sides of basket. For berries, make 4 to 6 tiny French-knot style wraps or knit tiny bobbles and stitch them inside the basket.
Facial Embroidery Placement
The face in the image is minimal and calm. The eyes are tiny, dark, and placed low enough to keep the expression soft. The nose and mouth are embroidered in a simple Y-style shape, centered slightly below the midpoint of the face.
- Eyes: place 7 to 8 stitches apart, centered horizontally on the face
- Eye level: about 8 rounds down from the top of the finished head
- Nose: 3 rounds below eye line
- Mouth: 1 small vertical stitch and 2 angled stitches forming a delicate Y
Use only a few strands of black floss or thin yarn. Avoid oversized eyes, since that would change the personality of the toy and make it look unlike the reference image.
Full Assembly Order
- Sew any opening between the legs if needed.
- Shape the body and head with your hands after stuffing.
- Sew the arms to the upper body, about 2 rounds below the neck join.
- Dress the bunny in the pinafore and sew the straps in place.
- Slide black boots onto the feet and secure with one hidden stitch if desired.
- Sew lop ears to the head sides, slightly behind the eye line.
- Place bonnet over the head and pull it close around the face.
- Sew bonnet lightly at the sides if you want it permanent.
- Tie bonnet cords under the chin.
- Attach duck purse so it hangs from the bunny’s right shoulder to left side, as shown.
- Place berry basket near the left hand or stitch it lightly to the hand for display.
Detailed Proportion Tips for Matching the Photo
The success of this pattern depends not only on stitch counts, but also on finishing choices. The photographed doll has a refined handmade look, so shaping and placement matter just as much as knitting accuracy.
- Head: fuller than the body, but not oversized
- Neck: visibly narrow
- Body: slim and lightly stuffed
- Legs: long, dangling, and softer than the head
- Arms: thin and relaxed, attached low enough to peek from dress armholes
- Ears: long and flat, hanging below bonnet edge
- Bonnet ears: upright and slightly inward-tilted
- Dress: short enough to reveal most of the legs when seated
- Duck purse: small, rounded, and hanging low on the front
If your bunny looks too bulky, reduce stuffing in the torso and arms first. If it looks too short, check leg length and the placement of the boots. If the bonnet slips upward, add one hidden tack stitch near each cheek.
Helpful Step-by-Step Finishing Notes
When sewing the arms, flatten the top of each arm before attaching. This creates a softer shoulder line. Angle the arms downward rather than straight out. In the photo, the hands rest naturally near the dress sides, not in a wide pose.
When attaching the lop ears, fold the cast-on edge of each ear slightly inward. This narrows the ear base and helps it drape downward more naturally. The ears should emerge from under the bonnet rather than being displayed fully outside it.
The duck purse strap should be thin. A thick strap makes the accessory look oversized. Let the purse sit around waist to lower-skirt level. The image shows it crossing the front of the dress without covering too much of the bodice.
For the berry basket, keep scale very small. It should look like a sweet accent, not a large prop. A basket that is too wide will distract from the bunny. It should fit neatly beside the hand and thigh when the doll is seated.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the bunny from the front and side before securing everything permanently. Adjust the head so it sits straight with a faint forward tilt. Embroider the eyes first, then the nose and mouth. Tie the bonnet neatly, position the ears, and place the purse so the front view matches the photo.
Care Notes
Handle the doll gently, especially the bonnet ears, purse strap, and basket handle. Spot clean when possible. Avoid rough machine washing because it may stretch the accessories and soften the crisp shaping of the face and clothing.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head fuller than body
- Neck narrow and firm
- Dress hem above boot tops when seated
- Lop ears visible below bonnet
- Fox ears upright
- Duck purse centered low on front
- Boots snug and even
- Eyes small and level
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Use a soft cloth with cool water and mild soap for surface cleaning. Press gently and never twist the toy. Reshape while damp and dry flat away from direct sun. Store in a breathable cotton bag, not plastic, to help preserve stitch definition, color, and stuffing shape over time.


