This sweet rabbit doll combines a classic storybook look with the cozy charm that makes handmade amigurumi so giftable, collectible, and easy to display. If you love searching for crochet doll patterns, handmade bunny decor, heirloom nursery gifts, or amigurumi rabbit dolls for sale, this design brings that same boutique feel into a make-at-home project.
With a red hooded cape, full skirt, puff sleeves, black shoes, white socks, and a tiny basket holding a small wolf, this rabbit is designed to look polished and shop-quality while still being approachable for patient makers. It is ideal for anyone who enjoys woodland crochet, collectible stuffed animals, handmade doll patterns, and story-inspired amigurumi projects.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English and is designed to recreate the rabbit, clothing, cape, basket, and tiny wolf shown in the image.
The finished rabbit sits with a tall, elegant proportion, a rounded head, long upright ears, slim arms, a dress-shaped body, straight narrow legs, ankle socks, and Mary Jane shoes.
The overall look depends on neat tension, careful stuffing, and accurate placement of each section.
The cape should drape softly over the shoulders and tie at the neck.
The skirt should be full and rounded, not flat.
The ears should be long and narrow with a gentle inward curve.
The face should remain simple, soft, and slightly shy.
Materials
- Main rabbit yarn: light worsted or DK cotton in warm beige-brown
- Cape and skirt yarn: DK cotton in deep red
- Bodice and shoes yarn: DK cotton in black
- Blouse and socks yarn: DK cotton in white
- Corset lace yarn: thin red yarn or embroidery floss
- Basket yarn: light brown or tan
- Wolf yarn: gray, cream, and a tiny amount of black
- Hook: 2.25 mm to 2.75 mm, or size needed to keep stitches tight
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill
- Safety eyes: 6 mm black, or black embroidery thread
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Straight pins
- Thin craft wire, optional: only if you want extra support in ears or neck
- Ribbon or crocheted ties: for the cape if preferred
Finished Size
Using DK yarn and a 2.5 mm hook, the rabbit will be approximately 13 to 15 inches tall from feet to ear tips.
The body itself, from top of head to feet, should be around 10 to 11 inches tall.
Each ear should measure about 4 to 4.75 inches long.
The basket should be small enough to rest beside the rabbit’s skirt and hold the tiny wolf snugly.
Gauge and Tension
Gauge is less important than consistency, but tight stitches are essential.
You should not see stuffing through the fabric.
If your stitches look loose, go down a hook size.
The rabbit in the image has compact stitches with a smooth, even surface.
That means your fabric should feel firm and sculpted rather than floppy.
Abbreviations
- MR = magic ring
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in same stitch
- dec = invisible decrease
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- st = stitch
- rnd = round
- rep = repeat
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General Notes Before You Start
- Work in continuous rounds unless a section says otherwise.
- Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
- Stuff the head firmly, the body moderately, and the limbs lightly to moderately.
- The rabbit has a slim silhouette, so do not overstuff the arms and legs.
- The dress is made as part of the body and then layered with blouse details.
- The cape is a separate piece.
- The tiny wolf and basket are separate accessories.
Head
With beige-brown yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
- Rnd 5: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
- Rnd 6: 4 sc, inc x6. (36)
- Rnd 7: 5 sc, inc x6. (42)
- Rnd 8: 6 sc, inc x6. (48)
- Rnd 9: 7 sc, inc x6. (54)
- Rnd 10: 8 sc, inc x6. (60)
- Rnd 11-20: sc around. (60 each round)
The head in the image is rounded and slightly taller than a perfect ball.
It should look smooth at the cheeks and gently narrower near the muzzle area.
Place safety eyes between Rnds 14 and 15, about 10 stitches apart.
Before securing the eyes, check the face from the front.
The eyes should appear low enough to make room for the forehead and ears, but high enough to keep the muzzle small.
- Rnd 21: 8 sc, dec x6. (54)
- Rnd 22: 7 sc, dec x6. (48)
- Rnd 23: 6 sc, dec x6. (42)
- Rnd 24: 5 sc, dec x6. (36)
Start stuffing firmly.
- Rnd 25: 4 sc, dec x6. (30)
- Rnd 26: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
- Rnd 27: 2 sc, dec x6. (18)
Stuff very firmly so the head holds its shape above the narrow neck.
Fasten off only if you plan to sew the head later.
If you prefer a no-sew join, leave the head open and continue directly onto the neck after the muzzle is finished.
Muzzle Shaping
The rabbit in the image has a tiny, softly protruding muzzle, not a large snout.
Make a small oval patch.
With beige-brown yarn:
- Ch 5.
- Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side: sc 2, inc in last st. (10)
- Rnd 2: inc, sc 2, inc x3, sc 2, inc x2. (16)
- Rnd 3: sc around. (16)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Lightly stuff or place a tiny pinch of stuffing behind it while sewing.
Sew the muzzle centered between Rnds 15 and 18.
Embroider a small vertical nose in matching brown or dark beige thread.
Add a short straight line down from the nose and a very soft curved mouth.
The mouth should be understated.
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Ears Make 2
With beige-brown yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: sc around. (12)
- Rnd 4: sc, inc x6. (18)
- Rnd 5-8: sc around. (18 each round)
- Rnd 9: 7 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec. (16)
- Rnd 10-13: sc around. (16 each round)
- Rnd 14: 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec. (14)
- Rnd 15-18: sc around. (14 each round)
- Rnd 19: 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec. (12)
- Rnd 20-24: sc around. (12 each round)
Flatten the base and sc through both sides for 5 stitches to close the bottom.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Do not stuff the ears.
If you want a little more structure, insert a tiny line of soft wire or a narrow strip of craft interfacing before sewing closed.
The ears in the image stand tall and slightly angle outward.
They are not wide floppy ears.
Pin them first.
Sew each ear to the top of the head, about 5 to 6 stitches apart at the base.
Angle the ears slightly forward and slightly outward.
Neck
If working separately from the head, create a neck cylinder.
With beige-brown yarn:
- Rnd 1: 18 sc in open edge of head. (18)
- Rnd 2-4: sc around. (18 each round)
The neck is narrow and short.
Stuff firmly.
If needed, insert a dowel, rolled felt, or wrapped wire support inside the neck.
Body Base and Upper Bodice
The rabbit’s body is shaped under the clothing.
The visible finish should show a white blouse at the upper chest and sleeves, a black bodice, and a red skirt.
We will build a slim torso, then add the blouse and skirt sections in color changes.
Continue from neck.
Rnd counts and shaping are chosen to match the narrow waist and bell skirt look in the photo.
With white yarn:
- Rnd 1: 18 sc around. (18)
- Rnd 2: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
- Rnd 3: 3 sc, inc x6. (30)
- Rnd 4-5: sc around. (30 each round)
Change to black yarn.
- Rnd 6-9: sc around. (30 each round)
- Rnd 10: 3 sc, dec x6. (24)
- Rnd 11-12: sc around. (24 each round)
- Rnd 13: 2 sc, inc x8. (32)
This creates a defined waist before the skirt flares.
Stuff the torso moderately.
The body should remain slim in the upper section.
Skirt Section
Change to red yarn.
- Rnd 14: in BLO, 3 sc, inc x8. (40)
- Rnd 15: 4 sc, inc x8. (48)
- Rnd 16: 5 sc, inc x8. (56)
- Rnd 17-21: sc around. (56 each round)
- Rnd 22: 6 sc, inc x8. (64)
- Rnd 23-25: sc around. (64 each round)
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The skirt in the image is full, rounded, and slightly structured.
It should not collapse flat against the legs.
If your yarn is soft, add slightly firmer tension or a simple underskirt lining later.
You can also lightly steam-block the skirt edge after finishing.
Lower Body Closing Section
The legs will be attached under the skirt.
If you prefer, you can crochet the body closed after positioning the legs.
For a standard construction:
- Rnd 26: 6 sc, dec x8. (56 to 48, worked as 4 sc, dec x8 if you prefer an even decrease pattern)
- Rnd 27: sc around. (48)
- Rnd 28: 4 sc, dec x8. (40)
- Rnd 29: sc around. (40)
Stuff the lower body lightly.
Flatten the bottom opening later after the legs are placed, or attach legs separately by sewing.
Arms Make 2
Each arm is slender and hangs straight down to the sides of the skirt.
The paws are simple and rounded.
With beige-brown yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3-4: sc around. (12 each round)
- Rnd 5: 4 sc, dec x2, 4 sc. (10)
- Rnd 6-15: sc around. (10 each round)
Stuff only the lower half lightly.
Flatten the top and sc through both sides for 4 stitches.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
The arms should look slim and slightly tapered.
Sew them near the upper side seams of the body so they sit just below the blouse line.
They should hang straight, not stick outward.
Legs Make 2
The rabbit has long, narrow legs with white socks and black shoes.
Each leg is straight and not heavily stuffed.
Shoe Base
With black yarn:
- Ch 6.
- Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, 3 sc in last ch, opposite side: sc 3, inc in last st. (12)
- Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2. (18)
- Rnd 3: in BLO, sc around. (18)
- Rnd 4: sc around. (18)
- Rnd 5: 5 sc, dec x4, 5 sc. (14)
- Rnd 6: sc around. (14)
Stuff the shoe toe lightly.
Sock and Leg
Change to white yarn.
- Rnd 7-9: sc around. (14 each round)
Change to beige-brown yarn.
- Rnd 10-24: sc around. (14 each round)
Stuff lightly but keep the leg straight and slim.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make the second leg the same.
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Sew both legs under the body, spaced close together so the rabbit can sit as shown.
When viewed from the front, the feet should point forward.
The visible leg portion under the skirt should be narrow and evenly aligned.
Socks Ruffle Make 2
The socks in the image have a soft frill at the top edge.
You can work this directly onto the white rounds.
With white yarn, join to the top sock round.
- Round: rep of sl st in next st, ch 2, hdc in same st, sl st in next st around.
This creates a gentle ruffle rather than a wide lace cuff.
Mary Jane Shoe Straps Make 2
The shoes have a simple strap across the front.
With black yarn:
- Ch 5.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 4.
Sew each strap across the upper front of the shoe.
Angle it very slightly upward toward the outer side.
White Blouse Front
The image shows a white blouse visible above the black bodice, with puff sleeves and a bright white chest area.
If your torso already includes a white upper section, this extra detail layer will make the chest stand out more clearly.
With white yarn:
- Ch 8.
- Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 7. (7)
- Row 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (7)
Fasten off, leaving a tail.
Sew this rectangle to the center front upper torso above the bodice line.
This panel should be visible under the cape and between the sleeves.
Puff Sleeves Make 2
With white yarn:
- Rnd 1: 8 sc in MR. (8)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (16)
- Rnd 3-4: sc around. (16 each round)
- Rnd 5: 2 sc, dec x4. (12)
Stuff very lightly if desired, but usually these look better with little or no stuffing.
Flatten slightly and sew around the top of each arm where it joins the torso.
The sleeves should look rounded and puffy, peeking from under the cape.
Black Bodice Overlay
The body should show a fitted black bodice over the blouse with red crisscross lacing down the center.
If your torso color changes already create enough contrast, you can skip a full overlay and only add edging.
For the cleanest result, make a small front panel.
With black yarn:
- Ch 11.
- Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10. (10)
- Row 2-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (10)
Fasten off.
Sew the panel centered over the waist and upper skirt join.
It should cover the front torso from just below the white blouse to just above the red skirt.
The lower corners can curve slightly inward when sewn to imitate a fitted corset shape.
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Bodice Lacing
Using thin red yarn or embroidery floss, add the visible crisscross lacing.
Bring the yarn from the back of the panel to the front.
Work diagonal crossings from top left to right, then top right to left, down the center.
Make about 4 crossing pairs.
Keep them evenly spaced.
The lacing in the image is decorative and clearly visible, but not oversized.
Red Hooded Cape
The cape is one of the defining features.
It should drape around the shoulders, frame the face, and fall to about the waist or slightly lower at the front, longer at the back.
The hood must be roomy enough to sit over the rabbit’s ears while still showing them.
Cape Body
With red yarn:
- Ch 36.
- Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across. (35)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 33, inc. (37)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc across. (37)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 35, inc. (39)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (39)
- Row 6: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 37, inc. (41)
- Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (41)
- Row 8: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 39, inc. (43)
- Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc across. (43)
- Row 10: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 41, inc. (45)
- Row 11-20: ch 1, turn, sc across. (45 each row)
Do not fasten off if you want to continue directly to the hood.
Hood
Fold the cape so you identify the center top edge.
Count 21 stitches centered across the upper edge.
Join yarn if needed.
- Row 1: sc 21 across center top edge. (21)
- Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (21)
- Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 19, inc. (23)
- Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (23)
- Row 5: ch 1, turn, inc, sc 21, inc. (25)
- Row 6-14: ch 1, turn, sc across. (25 each row)
Fold the hood in half so the last row edges meet.
Sew or slip stitch the top seam closed.
Turn right side out.
The hood should form a rounded back rather than a pointed elf hood.
If needed, add one extra row before seaming to give more depth for the ears.
Cape Edging and Ties
Work a neat sc border around the front opening and lower cape edge.
At the neck corners, add ties.
Option 1:
- Ch 18 at one neck edge, sl st back down the chain, continue edging, repeat on other side.
Option 2:
- Sew in narrow velvet ribbon ties for a look closer to the photo.
Tie the cape into a soft bow under the chin.
The bow should be visible and centered.
Basket
The basket is small, rounded, and shallow, with a curved handle.
It should sit beside the rabbit and hold the tiny wolf.
With tan or light brown yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
- Rnd 4: 2 sc, inc x6. (24)
- Rnd 5: in BLO, sc around. (24)
- Rnd 6-9: sc around. (24 each round)
Fasten off.
For the top rim, join yarn in front loop left from Rnd 5 and work one round of sl st or crab stitch if desired.
Basket Handle
With the same yarn:
- Ch 18.
- Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 17.
Sew the ends to opposite sides of the basket.
Arch the handle gently.
The handle in the image is slim and slightly upright.
Tiny Wolf
The wolf is intentionally tiny and simplified.
It should read clearly as a little stuffed wolf peeking from the basket.
Use gray yarn for the main body and cream for the muzzle area if desired.
Wolf Head and Body Combined
With gray yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: inc around. (12)
- Rnd 3: sc, inc x6. (18)
- Rnd 4-6: sc around. (18 each round)
- Rnd 7: 4 sc, dec x3. (15)
- Rnd 8-10: sc around. (15 each round)
- Rnd 11: 3 sc, dec x3. (12)
- Rnd 12-13: sc around. (12 each round)
- Rnd 14: 2 sc, dec x3. (9)
Stuff lightly.
Fasten off.
Wolf Ears Make 2
With gray yarn:
- Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4)
- Rnd 2: sc around. (4)
- Rnd 3: sc, inc, sc, inc. (6)
Fasten off and sew to the top of the head.
Keep them small and pointed.
Wolf Snout
With cream or gray yarn:
- Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
- Rnd 2: sc around. (6)
Sew to the lower face.
Embroider a tiny black nose and simple eyes.
The wolf should remain cute rather than fierce.
Red Cloth Inside Basket
The photo shows a red-and-white cloth peeking from the basket.
You can create a simple folded square.
With red yarn:
- Ch 9.
- Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 8. (8)
- Row 2-8: ch 1, turn, sc across. (8)
Fasten off.
If you want a checked look, weave white thread through several stitches on the surface.
Fold the cloth and place it inside the basket before adding the wolf.
Optional Skirt Undershape
If your skirt falls too softly and you want the rounded silhouette from the photo, make a very simple inner support ring.
With red yarn:
- Ch 48 and join carefully without twisting.
- Rnd 1-2: sc around. (48 each round)
Fasten off and lightly tack this ring inside the lower skirt.
This helps keep the bell shape while staying soft.
Joining the Rabbit
Before sewing permanently, pin everything first.
- Check that the head sits straight above the torso.
- Check that the ears are even in height.
- Check that the arms touch or nearly touch the sides of the skirt.
- Check that the legs are centered and parallel.
- Check that the cape opening frames the face without hiding the eyes.
Once pinned, sew the limbs with small tight stitches.
Use matching yarn and knot securely inside the body.
Shaping the Face for the Correct Expression
The rabbit’s expression is gentle, quiet, and storybook-like.
That depends on the eye size, muzzle placement, and embroidery scale.
- Use small black eyes only.
- Do not add large blush circles or oversized cheeks.
- Keep the nose very small.
- Place the mouth low and subtle.
- If desired, add a tiny stitch at the outer edge of each eye for softness, but keep it minimal.
How to Get the Dress Exactly Right
The dress is visually made of three key parts.
- White blouse: visible at the chest and sleeves
- Black fitted bodice: narrow at the waist with red lacing
- Red skirt: full, rounded, and long enough to cover the upper legs
If your skirt looks too short, add one or two more rounds in red before closing the lower body.
If your bodice looks too wide, use a narrower overlay panel.
If your sleeves look flat, remake them with a looser increase round and gather them more when sewing.
How to Get the Cape Exactly Right
The cape should not look stiff like armor.
It should drape in soft folds.
The hood opening should sit around the face and ears naturally.
The front edges should come together under the chin in a small bow.
If the hood is too shallow, add two more rows before seaming.
If the cape body is too short, add 3 to 5 more rows to the lower edge.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew the head securely to the neck and torso, then attach the ears with a slight outward slant.
Add the muzzle, embroider the tiny nose and mouth, and place the arms so they hang naturally beside the skirt.
Dress the rabbit with the cape, tie the bow neatly, then arrange the basket and tiny wolf so the accessories look balanced and storybook-like.
Care Notes
Display use is best for this piece because of the cape, basket, and delicate shaping.
If gifting to a child, avoid plastic safety eyes and embroider all facial features instead.
Keep the doll away from rough pulling so the ears, cape ties, and basket handle keep their shape.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head is firmly stuffed and straight
- Ears are evenly placed and angled outward
- Eyes are small and symmetrical
- Muzzle is centered and lightly raised
- Bodice lacing is neat and centered
- Skirt is full and rounded
- Cape bow is tidy under the chin
- Socks and shoe straps are visible
- Basket fits beside the rabbit
- Tiny wolf sits securely in the basket
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed.
Do not machine wash unless all parts are firmly secured and made with washable yarn.
Reshape the ears, cape, and skirt while drying, and store the doll out of direct sunlight to reduce fading and keep the red color rich over time.


