This elegant lavender bunny is designed as a collectible knitted toy with a romantic garden look, a wide-brim hat, a layered dress, hand-embroidered roses, a tiny shoulder bag, removable shoes, and sweet gardening accessories. If you love heirloom bunny dolls, handmade nursery decor, gift ideas, collectible stuffed animals, and boutique-style knitted toys, this pattern brings that charming handmade look into your own project basket. The finished bunny is soft, graceful, and styled to match the picture closely, including the pale cream body, lavender dress, floral details, and miniature gardening props.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern makes one standing display bunny with long ears, a full cream underdress, a lavender overskirt, puff sleeves, a lavender hat, a floral bag, a pair of shoes, a small flowerpot with seedling, a trowel, a watering can, and a tiny soil sack.
The shaping is written to create the same overall silhouette shown in the image: a rounded head, narrow neck, softly stuffed upper body, long slim arms, a very wide skirted lower body, and gently hanging ears that fall beside the face.
The bunny is primarily a decorative knit. It can be made for gentle display, photography styling, shelf decor, or as a special handmade keepsake. The accessories are small, so this project is best suited to careful knitters who enjoy detail work.
Finished Size
- Main bunny: about 14 to 16 inches tall seated within the dress structure, or about 16 to 17 inches from skirt base to hat crown
- Head width: about 3.5 to 4 inches
- Skirt diameter at hem: about 8.5 to 10 inches
- Hat brim diameter: about 6.5 to 7.5 inches
- Shoes: about 2 to 2.25 inches long each
The size depends on yarn thickness, stuffing level, and embroidery tension. To match the photo well, keep the stitches tight and the stuffing smooth rather than overly firm.
Materials
- Main body yarn: sport or light DK weight in soft cream
- Dress and hat yarn: sport or light DK weight in light lavender
- Rose yarn: dark rose, medium rose, and dusty pink
- Leaf yarn: olive green and soft leaf green
- Accessory yarn: terracotta, taupe, light gray, medium gray, black, and white
- Needles: 2.5 mm and 3 mm double-pointed needles or your preferred method for knitting small circumferences
- Straight or circular needles: 3 mm for flat skirt panels and accessories
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Small amount of toy stuffing
- Thin floral wire or craft wire for hat brim and watering can spout, optional
- Plastic canvas circle, stiff felt, or a cardboard template sealed inside fabric for skirt base, optional but very helpful
- Black embroidery thread or 6 mm black safety eyes
- Blush tint, optional
Gauge
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette on 3 mm needles after light blocking.
Gauge matters because the bunny in the image has fine, neat stitches with a smooth luxury finish. If your fabric looks open, go down a needle size. The knitted surface should hide stuffing well.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- G st = garter stitch
- Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
- K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- SSK = slip, slip, knit
- M1L = make 1 left
- M1R = make 1 right
- Rep = repeat
- Rnd = round
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Construction Notes
- The body is worked in separate pieces: head, ears, arms, upper torso, lower skirt support, and clothing.
- The cream lower dress is integrated as the visible base of the body, then covered by the lavender overskirt.
- The floral motifs are embroidered after knitting.
- The hat, bag, shoes, and garden tools are made separately and attached or posed after assembly.
- Use very even stuffing. The face in the image is smooth, not lumpy.
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Head
The head is softly oval, wider across the cheeks, and slightly narrowed at the muzzle. The face is simple, with tiny black eyes, a stitched nose, and a split mouth. The ears are attached high but not at the very top.
- Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 12 sts. Divide over needles for working in the round.
- Rnd 1: K.
- Rnd 2: Kfb in each st. 24 sts.
- Rnd 3: K.
- Rnd 4: K1, Kfb around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 5: K.
- Rnd 6: K2, Kfb around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 7: K.
- Rnd 8: K3, Kfb around. 60 sts.
- Rnds 9 through 20: K all rounds.
At this stage, begin shaping the lower face. The photo shows a soft taper from the round upper head into a narrower muzzle and neck area. Do not overstuff the front of the face. Keep the cheeks slightly fuller than the center front.
- Rnd 21: K8, K2tog, repeat around. 54 sts.
- Rnd 22: K.
- Rnd 23: K7, K2tog, repeat around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 24: K.
- Rnd 25: K6, K2tog, repeat around. 42 sts.
- Rnd 26: K.
- Rnd 27: K5, K2tog, repeat around. 36 sts.
- Rnd 28: K.
Stuff the head firmly but smoothly now. Shape the cheeks with your fingers as you fill. The muzzle should not bulge too far out. It is subtle in the image, so keep the front elegant and restrained.
- Rnd 29: K4, K2tog around. 30 sts.
- Rnd 30: K.
- Rnd 31: K3, K2tog around. 24 sts.
Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull gently closed, and leave a long tail. This gathered opening becomes the base of the head and will be sewn to the upper torso.
Muzzle Sculpting and Face Placement
Thread a strong cream yarn through the base opening and lightly sculpt the face by taking a stitch from one side of the muzzle to the other, pulling just enough to define the nose bridge area. The face in the image is minimal, so only a tiny amount of shaping is needed.
- Eyes: place between Rnds 15 and 16, about 11 to 12 stitches apart
- Nose point: centered between Rnds 18 and 19
- Mouth split: one short vertical stitch down, then tiny angled mouth stitches
The nose should be a small upside-down triangle or short Y-shape, stitched in dark taupe or brownish black. Keep the expression gentle and slightly wistful.
Ears Make 2
The ears are long, narrow, soft, and unstuffed. They hang straight down from under the hat brim and reach to about arm level.
- Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts.
- Work flat in St st for 6 rows, beginning with a knit row.
- Row 7: K1, M1L, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1. 10 sts.
- Rows 8 through 18: Work even in St st.
- Row 19: K1, M1L, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1. 12 sts.
- Rows 20 through 42: Work even.
- Row 43: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 10 sts.
- Rows 44 and 45: Work even.
- Row 46: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 8 sts.
- Rows 47 and 48: Work even.
- Row 49: SSK, knit to last 2 sts, K2tog. 6 sts.
- Row 50: P.
- Row 51: SSK, K2, K2tog. 4 sts.
- Row 52: P.
- Row 53: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
- Row 54: P2tog. Fasten off.
Make a second matching ear. Lightly steam if needed so they hang flat and smooth. Do not stuff. Sew each ear folded very slightly at the top edge so the ear root sits naturally against the head.
Upper Torso
The upper torso is hidden mostly by the bodice and skirt, but it controls the pose. It should be narrow and cylindrical, with enough firmness to support the head and arms.
- Using cream, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
- Rnds 1 through 10: K.
- Rnd 11: K3, K2tog around. 20 sts.
- Rnds 12 through 18: K.
- Rnd 19: K2, Kfb around. 27 sts.
- Rnd 20: K.
- Rnd 21: K3, Kfb around. 34 sts.
- Rnds 22 through 26: K.
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Stuff the torso firmly. Leave a long tail for sewing to the lower body support. The upper torso should be about 2.5 inches tall and narrower than the dress bodice so the clothing layers sit smoothly over it.
Arms Make 2
The bunny’s arms are long, slim, and slightly curved inward so they can hold the flowerpot and trowel. The forearms are visible, so keep the finish neat.
- Using cream and 2.5 mm needles, CO 10 sts and join.
- Rnds 1 through 6: K.
- Rnd 7: Kfb in every 5th stitch twice. 12 sts.
- Rnds 8 through 24: K.
- Rnd 25: K2tog around. 6 sts.
Stuff only the lower half lightly. Flatten the top edge and sew closed. Shape a slight bend at the elbow while sewing to the body. Attach the right arm a touch higher than the left if you want to mimic the angled pose in the image.
Lower Dress Body and Display Base
The bunny in the photo appears to stand through a broad cone or dome-shaped dress base rather than visible legs. To recreate that exact look, the lower section is built as a structured skirt body. This gives the doll its graceful bell shape.
Inner Support Cone
- Using cream and 3 mm needles, CO 36 sts and join.
- Rnds 1 through 4: K.
- Rnd 5: K3, Kfb around. 45 sts.
- Rnds 6 and 7: K.
- Rnd 8: K4, Kfb around. 54 sts.
- Rnds 9 and 10: K.
- Rnd 11: K5, Kfb around. 63 sts.
- Rnds 12 and 13: K.
- Rnd 14: K6, Kfb around. 72 sts.
- Rnds 15 and 16: K.
- Rnd 17: K7, Kfb around. 81 sts.
- Rnds 18 and 19: K.
- Rnd 20: K8, Kfb around. 90 sts.
- Rnds 21 and 22: K.
- Rnd 23: K9, Kfb around. 99 sts.
- Rnds 24 and 25: K.
- Rnd 26: K10, Kfb around. 108 sts.
- Rnds 27 through 36: K.
Insert a lightweight base circle before fully closing the structure. A covered cardboard circle, plastic canvas, or stiff felt makes the skirt stand evenly on a shelf. Lightly pad above the base so the dress looks soft instead of rigid.
Outer Cream Dress Layer
This outer layer is the visible cream underskirt with floral embroidery. It should fit over the support cone smoothly. Work from the top down.
- Using cream, CO 40 sts and join.
- Rnds 1 through 6: K.
- Rnd 7: K4, Kfb around. 48 sts.
- Rnds 8 and 9: K.
- Rnd 10: K5, Kfb around. 56 sts.
- Rnds 11 and 12: K.
- Rnd 13: K6, Kfb around. 64 sts.
- Rnds 14 and 15: K.
- Rnd 16: K7, Kfb around. 72 sts.
- Rnds 17 and 18: K.
- Rnd 19: K8, Kfb around. 80 sts.
- Rnds 20 and 21: K.
- Rnd 22: K9, Kfb around. 88 sts.
- Rnds 23 and 24: K.
- Rnd 25: K10, Kfb around. 96 sts.
- Rnds 26 and 27: K.
- Rnd 28: K11, Kfb around. 104 sts.
- Rnds 29 through 39: K.
- Rnd 40: P all around for turning ridge.
- Rnds 41 through 44: K.
- Rnd 45: *K2tog, yo* around for decorative eyelet line, optional.
- Rnd 46: K.
- Rnd 47: P all around.
- Rnd 48: K all around, BO loosely.
The lower edge in the image has a subtle lavender detail. You may duplicate stitch a small lavender scallop or tiny petal line along the lower cream hem after blocking.
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Lavender Overskirt Panels
The photo shows two broad lavender overskirt panels opening at the front and curving outward over the cream skirt. Make two mirrored panels worked flat in garter-edged stockinette for a soft drape.
- Using lavender, CO 34 sts.
- Row 1 RS: K2, knit to last 2 sts, K2.
- Row 2 WS: K2, purl to last 2 sts, K2.
- Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 10 rows.
- Row 11 RS: K2, M1L, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, K2. 36 sts.
- Continue in pattern, increasing 1 stitch at each side every 6th row 6 more times. 48 sts.
- Work even until panel measures about 7.5 inches.
Now shape the lower rounded front edge so each panel sweeps beautifully along the skirt front.
- BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
- Then dec 1 stitch at each edge every RS row 6 times.
- Work even for 6 rows.
- Finish with 4 rows garter stitch.
- BO knitwise.
Make the second panel to mirror the first. Sew the top inner edge of each panel into the waist seam so they fall open in the front. Embroider rose clusters near the hem exactly like the image, spacing them more heavily at the lower curved edges.
Bodice
The bodice is a simple square-neck lavender layer fitted over the upper torso. It should be neat and smooth, with the rose motif centered on the chest.
- Using lavender, CO 40 sts and join.
- Rnds 1 through 8: K.
- Rnd 9: P all around for waist seam definition.
- Rnds 10 through 18: K.
For the neckline, work front and back separately.
- Front: 20 sts. Back: 20 sts.
- Work front first. Row 1 RS: K.
- Row 2 WS: P.
- Row 3: BO 4 sts, knit to end.
- Row 4: BO 4 sts, purl to end. 12 sts.
- Rows 5 through 10: Work even.
- BO.
Work the back the same way. Sew shoulder seams lightly and fit over the torso. The square neckline should sit low enough to show the cream neck clearly, just like the photo.
Puff Sleeves Make 2
The sleeves are short and rounded, with a gathered puff look and tiny rosebud embroidery on the outer side.
- Using lavender, CO 26 sts.
- Work flat 4 rows in G st.
- Change to St st and work 8 rows.
- Next RS row: K2tog across. 13 sts.
- Work 1 WS row purl.
- BO all stitches.
Sew into a tiny ring and gather the top edge gently. Attach around the arm opening so the sleeve cap sits high and rounded. Embroider a small rosebud with two leaves on the outer upper sleeve.
Hat
The hat is essential for matching the image. It has a rounded crown and a generous downward brim. The lavender rose trim sits on one side of the brim band area.
Hat Crown Top
- Using lavender and 2.5 mm needles, CO 8 sts and join.
- Rnd 1: K.
- Rnd 2: Kfb around. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: K.
- Rnd 4: K1, Kfb around. 24 sts.
- Rnd 5: K.
- Rnd 6: K2, Kfb around. 32 sts.
- Rnd 7: K.
- Rnd 8: K3, Kfb around. 40 sts.
- Rnds 9 through 20: K.
Transition to Brim
- Rnd 21: P all around.
- Rnd 22: K4, Kfb around. 48 sts.
- Rnd 23: K.
- Rnd 24: K5, Kfb around. 56 sts.
- Rnd 25: K.
- Rnd 26: K6, Kfb around. 64 sts.
- Rnd 27: K.
- Rnd 28: K7, Kfb around. 72 sts.
- Rnds 29 and 30: K.
- Rnd 31: K8, Kfb around. 80 sts.
- Rnds 32 through 36: K.
- BO loosely.
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If you want the brim to hold its curve, thread thin wire through the final round or sew in a millinery wire on the inside edge. Shape it into a soft downward tilt. Add one medium rose and two small leaves near the right side of the brim.
Bag
The shoulder bag is small, soft, lavender, and embroidered with roses on the front. The strap is narrow and rests diagonally at the side.
- Using lavender, CO 18 sts.
- Work flat in St st with garter edge for 22 rows.
- Fold in half and sew side seams to form a pouch.
- For flap, pick up 18 sts along one top edge.
- Work 6 rows St st, then 2 rows G st. BO.
Strap: CO 60 sts and work 2 rows in G st. BO. Sew each end to bag sides. Embroider a rose cluster on the front before attaching the strap.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are tiny lavender Mary Jane style slippers placed in front of the bunny. They are decorative and can be lightly stuffed or simply shaped.
- Using lavender, CO 10 sts.
- Work 2 rows G st.
- Row 3: Kfb, K8, Kfb. 12 sts.
- Rows 4 through 10: Work in St st.
- Row 11: K2tog, K8, K2tog. 10 sts.
- Row 12: P.
- Row 13: K2tog, K6, K2tog. 8 sts.
- Rows 14 and 15: Work even.
Fold and seam into slipper form. Add a tiny strap across the instep using a short I-cord or chained strand. Insert a little white felt or knit insert inside to mimic the pale inner lining seen in the image.
Flowerpot
The flowerpot is held in the bunny’s left arm area and contains dark soil with a tiny green sprout.
- Using terracotta, CO 8 sts and join.
- Rnd 1: K.
- Rnd 2: Kfb around. 16 sts.
- Rnd 3: K.
- Rnd 4: K1, Kfb around. 24 sts.
- Rnds 5 through 10: K.
- Rnd 11: P.
- Rnd 12: K.
- Rnd 13: K2tog around. 12 sts.
Make a small circle of black knitted fabric or felt for soil and insert it at the top. For the sprout, knit or embroider a short green stem with two small leaves.
Trowel
The trowel has a brown handle and a soft gray blade.
- Handle: make a 10-stitch I-cord in terracotta or medium brown, about 1.5 inches long
- Blade: CO 6 sts in light gray, work 4 rows St st, then decrease to a rounded point
Sew the blade to one end of the handle and place it across the front hand area. A tiny stitch can secure it if desired.
Watering Can
The gray watering can sits at the lower right in the image and includes a curved handle, spout, and rose motif.
- Using light gray, CO 10 sts and join.
- Rnd 1: K.
- Rnd 2: Kfb around. 20 sts.
- Rnds 3 through 8: K.
- Rnd 9: P.
- Rnds 10 and 11: K.
- BO loosely.
Stuff very lightly. Close base. Make a spout from a short 8-stitch I-cord and taper the end. Make the top handle from another narrow cord and sew in an arch. Embroider one small pink rose with leaves on the side.
Soil Sack
The tiny sack at the lower right is a soft taupe bag with a dark opening to suggest soil inside.
- Using taupe, CO 14 sts and join.
- Rnds 1 through 10: K.
- Rnd 11: P.
- Rnd 12: K.
- BO loosely.
Fill the bottom lightly, leaving the top unstuffed. Roll the top edge outward. Add a little black felt or black knitted circle inside the opening to mimic soil.
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Roses and Leaf Embroidery
The floral details are what make this bunny look like the exact design in the image. Use layered embroidery and tiny knitted appliques together if you like, but keep the roses dimensional and compact.
Main Skirt Bouquet
- Place one large central dark rose near the lower center front of the cream skirt.
- Add two slightly smaller roses beside and just above it.
- Embroider small pink buds climbing upward in a triangular arrangement.
- Add olive green stems and layered leaves around the cluster.
This bouquet should occupy about the center lower third of the cream front skirt and should be the most detailed floral section on the entire project.
Chest Rose
- Make one medium rose centered on the bodice chest
- Add two pairs of leaves beneath and beside it
Overskirt Rose Sprays
- Place clustered rosebuds along the lower curved edges of both lavender panels
- Use a mixture of dark rose and light pink buds
- Keep spacing balanced but not perfectly identical for a natural garden look
Sleeve Buds
- One tiny rosebud with two leaves on each puff sleeve
Bag Rose
- One medium rose with leaves centered on the bag front
Hat Rose
- One medium rose and two leaves stitched near one side of brim
How to Make a Simple Knitted Rose Applique
If you prefer knitted roses instead of embroidered spiral roses, use this quick method.
- Using rose yarn, CO 26 sts.
- Row 1 WS: P.
- Row 2 RS: K1, Kfb across. 51 sts.
- Row 3 WS: P.
- Row 4 RS: K all.
- BO loosely.
Roll the strip tightly from the cast-on edge to form the center, then more loosely toward the outer petals. Sew the base securely. Make several sizes by changing the cast-on count.
Assembly
- Sew the head to the upper torso securely.
- Attach the ears high on the head, slightly behind the eye line, so they hang beside the face.
- Sew the upper torso onto the center top of the lower support cone.
- Slide the cream outer dress over the support cone and sew at the waist.
- Fit the bodice over the torso and stitch neatly at waist and shoulders.
- Attach the arms under the puff sleeves, angling them inward.
- Sew the lavender overskirt panels into the waist seam, leaving the front open.
- Place the hat on the head and tack it lightly behind the ears and near the crown.
- Add the bag strap over one shoulder and tack the bag to rest at the right side.
- Position the flowerpot and trowel in the hands and secure with a few hidden stitches if desired.
- Arrange the watering can, soil sack, and shoes at the base for display.
Balancing the Silhouette
To match the photo well, the bunny should look upright but soft. The head should not lean backward. The hat brim should frame the face without hiding the eyes. The overskirt should open enough to reveal the central rose bouquet on the cream dress.
The ears should fall straight with just a tiny inward bend. The arms should sit forward naturally, not flat against the body. The flowerpot should be centered slightly left of the skirt bouquet, and the trowel should cross gently in front.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the eye placement before fully tightening the head shaping. The eyes should be tiny and evenly spaced. The nose should be small, centered, and slightly above the midpoint of the lower face. Add the mouth with just a few neat stitches.
Lightly brush a soft blush tone onto the cheeks if desired. Keep it subtle. Steam the hat brim and overskirt very gently so they sit smoothly. Make sure every floral applique is firmly secured, especially the chest rose and skirt bouquet.
Care Notes
- Display indoors away from direct sunlight to protect the lavender and rose colors.
- Spot clean only when possible.
- Do not machine wash if your bunny includes a firm skirt base or wired hat brim.
- Store flat or upright in a dust-free cabinet or shelf area.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and secure
- Ears matched in length and angle
- Hat brim balanced
- Bodice chest rose centered
- Main front bouquet placed low and symmetrical
- Overskirt panels opening evenly
- Bag strap secure
- Accessories positioned like the photo
- All yarn tails woven in
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Dust gently with a soft dry brush. For small marks, dab carefully with a barely damp cloth and let air dry completely. Avoid soaking the bunny, especially if the skirt includes an internal support disc. Keep accessories together in a small box when not on display.
For long-term preservation, wrap the bunny loosely in acid-free tissue and store in a breathable container. Avoid plastic bags in humid spaces. Check embroidery and accessory stitches occasionally so the display remains neat and secure over time.
