This charming hen doll is designed as a collectible knitted soft toy with a cozy woodland outfit, plaid skirt, mushroom cardigan, crossbody bag, flower accents, rustic shoes, and tiny garden accessories. It has the look of a handmade heirloom plush, perfect for knit toy lovers, cottagecore gift ideas, nursery decor, seasonal table styling, and handmade doll collectors searching for a cute knitted chicken toy, woodland hen doll, or artisan farm animal plush.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Pattern Overview
This pattern is written in US English and is designed to closely match the hen shown in the image.
The doll is worked mostly flat and seamed, with a few small pieces worked in the round if preferred.
The finished hen stands at about 12 to 13 inches tall from the soles of the shoes to the top of the comb.
The body is softly stuffed but still firm enough to stand with support from the wide skirt and shoes.
The proportions are very important for this design.
- Head: tall, narrow, softly cylindrical, slightly wider through the lower face
- Beak: large, rounded cone, centered and projecting forward
- Comb: three upright red points
- Wattles: two rounded teardrop lobes hanging below the beak
- Body: hidden beneath blouse, cardigan, and skirt; compact and pear-shaped
- Arms/Wings: short, angled slightly downward, with cream tips visible below cardigan sleeves
- Legs: short yellow columns emerging below skirt hem
- Shoes: rounded brown Mary Jane style with a tiny flower trim
- Skirt: full, slightly flared, mid-calf length, plaid effect created by embroidery
- Cardigan: mossy green, cropped, buttoned front, embroidered daisies and mushrooms
- Bag: brown crossbody satchel with flap and mushroom motif
- Accessories: mini hat, watering can, basket of eggs, and tiny flower pot
Materials
- Main yarn: DK weight wool or wool blend in cream, moss green, mustard yellow, red, brown, light beige, and plaid skirt shades
- Suggested colors: cream for head and blouse, olive green for cardigan, medium brown and taupe for skirt and shoes, golden yellow for beak and legs, bright red for comb, wattles, and mushrooms
- Small accents: white, yellow, leaf green, pale pink, pale blue, and pale mint
- Needles: US 2 and US 3 straight needles, plus double-pointed needles if you prefer for tiny pieces
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Black 8 mm safety eyes or black beads
- Polyester stuffing
- Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for shoe soles and bag base
- Embroidery needle
- 5 small brown buttons for cardigan front
- 2 to 3 tiny buttons for blouse front
- Optional fabric glue for securing non-structural embellishments
Gauge
28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US 3 needles using DK yarn.
Tight gauge is important for knitted toys.
If your fabric looks loose or stuffing shows through, go down one needle size.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
- st st = stockinette stitch
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- inc = increase 1 stitch by kfb unless stated
- dec = decrease 1 stitch using k2tog or ssk as directed
Construction Order
- Knit the legs and body base
- Knit the head
- Knit the beak, comb, and wattles
- Knit the wings and blouse collar
- Knit the skirt
- Knit the cardigan and embroider motifs
- Knit the shoes
- Knit the bag and strap
- Knit the flower accents and mini accessories
- Assemble in the exact order listed
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Legs Make 2
Using mustard yellow and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts.
Work in st st for 18 rows, beginning with a purl row.
Row 19: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
Rows 20 to 24: work even in st st.
Row 25: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Rows 26 to 34: work even.
Stuff lightly only near the ankle and lower calf.
Leave the upper section mostly unstuffed so it flattens slightly inside the skirt.
BO knitwise, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Body Base
Using cream and US 3 needles, CO 22 sts.
Work the body flat from lower torso upward.
Row 1 RS: k.
Row 2 WS: p.
Rows 3 to 8: continue in st st.
Row 9: k2, kfb, k16, kfb, k2. 24 sts.
Row 10: p.
Row 11: k2, kfb, k18, kfb, k2. 26 sts.
Row 12: p.
Row 13: k2, kfb, k20, kfb, k2. 28 sts.
Rows 14 to 24: work even.
Row 25: k2, ssk, k20, k2tog, k2. 26 sts.
Row 26: p.
Row 27: k2, ssk, k18, k2tog, k2. 24 sts.
Row 28: p.
Row 29: k2, ssk, k16, k2tog, k2. 22 sts.
Rows 30 to 38: work even.
Leave live stitches on a holder.
Make a second identical body panel.
Join panels at sides and lower edge later, inserting legs at the bottom corners spaced 6 stitches apart.
Head Make 2
The hen’s head is tall and smooth, not round like a ball.
It should resemble a softly squared cylinder with a gentle chin area.
Using cream and US 3 needles, CO 24 sts.
Row 1 RS: k.
Row 2 WS: p.
Rows 3 to 12: continue in st st.
Row 13: k2, kfb, k20, kfb, k2. 26 sts.
Row 14: p.
Rows 15 to 30: work even.
Row 31: k2, ssk, k20, k2tog, k2. 24 sts.
Rows 32 to 40: work even.
BO.
Make a second panel.
Seam the head pieces together at sides and top, leaving lower edge open.
Stuff firmly but do not over-round the shape.
The finished head should be taller than wide.
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Joining Head and Body
Seam the body panels together first.
Insert the legs into the lower opening while seaming the body.
Place one leg 4 stitches in from each side seam.
Stuff the body firmly through the neck opening.
Pin the head to the body so the front face sits slightly forward.
The neck should not look long.
Use mattress stitch to attach the head securely.
Add extra stuffing at the front neck base if needed so the beak sits proudly forward later.
Beak
Using mustard yellow and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts.
Row 1: p.
Row 2: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
Row 3: p.
Row 4: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
Row 5: p.
Row 6: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
Rows 7 to 12: work even in st st.
Row 13: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 14: p.
Row 15: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
Row 16: p.
Row 17: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
BO.
Make a second piece.
Seam around curved edges, stuff moderately, and shape into a broad rounded cone.
The beak should be larger than a realistic hen beak so the face matches the image.
Comb
Using red and US 2 needles, CO 4 sts.
Each comb point is worked separately and later joined side by side.
Comb Point Make 3
CO 4 sts.
Row 1: p.
Row 2: kfb, k2, kfb. 6 sts.
Row 3: p.
Row 4: k1, kfb, k2, kfb, k1. 8 sts.
Rows 5 to 10: work even.
Row 11: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
Row 12: p.
Row 13: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
Row 14: p.
Row 15: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
BO.
Make 3 identical points.
Arrange them slightly overlapping and seam at the bases only.
The center point should stand the tallest.
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Wattles Make 2
Using red and US 2 needles, CO 4 sts.
Row 1: p.
Row 2: kfb, k2, kfb. 6 sts.
Row 3: p.
Rows 4 to 6: work even.
Row 7: ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
Row 8: p.
Row 9: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
BO.
Make a second piece.
Fold each piece lightly and seam the edge to form soft rounded drops.
Eyes and Face Placement
Before attaching the beak, mark the eye line.
- Eyes sit high on the face, just below the flower line
- Space them about 9 to 10 stitches apart
- The beak sits centered between them, starting one row below eye level and extending downward
- Wattles sit just below the beak seam
Attach black eyes securely before final face shaping.
If using beads instead of safety eyes, sew them on after stuffing.
Wings Make 2
Using cream and US 3 needles, CO 12 sts.
Row 1: p.
Row 2: k.
Row 3: p.
Row 4: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
Rows 5 to 14: work even.
Row 15: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
Row 16: p.
Row 17: ssk, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
Row 18: p.
BO.
Make a second wing.
Sew side seams and stuff only the upper half lightly.
Flatten the lower half so the wing tips tuck neatly under the cardigan sleeves.
Blouse Front Panel
This cream blouse is mostly visible at the center front beneath the cardigan.
Using cream and US 3 needles, CO 16 sts.
Rows 1 to 20: work in st st, beginning with a purl row.
Rows 21 to 24: k on RS, p on WS.
BO.
Sew the blouse panel to the body front only.
Add 3 tiny buttons vertically down the upper center.
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Wide Folded Collar
Using cream and US 3 needles, CO 44 sts.
Rows 1 to 6: garter stitch.
Row 7 RS: k2, ssk, k36, k2tog, k2. 42 sts.
Row 8: k.
Row 9: k2, ssk, k34, k2tog, k2. 40 sts.
Rows 10 to 14: garter stitch.
BO loosely.
Curve the collar around the neckline.
Overlap front edges so it forms a soft cape-like rolled collar exactly like the image.
Plaid Skirt
The skirt is full, wide, and slightly stiff so it supports the doll visually.
Use medium brown as the main color.
Using US 3 needles, CO 56 sts.
Work flat.
Rows 1 to 4: garter stitch.
Row 5 RS: k2, kfb, repeat k6, kfb to last 2 sts, k2. 64 sts.
Row 6 WS: p.
Row 7: k.
Row 8: p.
Continue in st st until piece measures 6 inches from cast-on edge.
Rows 29 to 32: garter stitch.
BO loosely.
Sew short side seams to form a tube.
Gather the upper edge evenly to fit the waist.
Attach around the lower torso so the skirt begins just under the cardigan hem.
The hem should sit around ankle level, with legs and shoes still fully visible.
Plaid Embroidery
Use duplicate stitch and surface embroidery in cream, taupe, and dark brown to create the plaid.
- Work 4 to 5 vertical cream lines spaced about 9 stitches apart
- Add 3 to 4 horizontal cream lines spaced about 6 rows apart
- Between them, add thinner taupe lines
- Finish with one or two deeper brown lines for contrast
The plaid should look softly rustic, not sharp or graphic.
Allow slight irregularity for a handmade look.
Cardigan Back
Using moss green and US 3 needles, CO 24 sts.
Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
Rows 5 to 22: work in st st.
Row 23: BO 4 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 16 sts.
Rows 25 to 32: work even.
Row 33: k5, BO 6, k5.
Row 34: p5, CO 6, p5.
Rows 35 to 38: work even.
BO.
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Cardigan Left Front
Using moss green and US 3 needles, CO 14 sts.
Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
Rows 5 to 18: work in st st, keeping front edge in 3 stitches garter for band.
Row 19 WS: BO 4 sts at armhole edge. 10 sts.
Rows 20 to 26: continue as established.
Row 27 RS: work 6 sts, BO 4 sts. 6 sts.
Rows 28 to 30: work even.
BO.
Cardigan Right Front
Work as left front, reversing shaping.
Add 5 buttonholes spaced evenly on the front band.
For each buttonhole row: k1, yo, k2tog in the center of the band.
Sleeves Make 2
Using moss green and US 3 needles, CO 16 sts.
Rows 1 to 4: k1, p1 rib.
Row 5: k1, kfb, k12, kfb, k1. 18 sts.
Rows 6 to 20: work in st st.
Row 21: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 14 sts.
Rows 23 to 26: work even.
BO.
Sew cardigan pieces together at shoulders and sides.
Insert sleeves.
Dress the doll before fully closing underarm seams if needed.
The cardigan should sit open slightly at the lower edge and close neatly over the blouse.
Cardigan Embroidery
Using duplicate stitch and tiny satin stitches, embroider motifs after the cardigan is assembled.
Left Lower Front
- One white daisy with yellow center
- Two red mushrooms with white spots and cream stems
- One green stem line under the daisy
Right Front
- One small white daisy near upper front
- One tiny red mushroom near lower front edge
- One small leafy spray near the side seam
Keep the embroidery compact and sweet.
The motifs should not cover the whole cardigan.
They act as focal details, exactly like the image.
Shoes Make 2
Using brown and US 2 needles, CO 14 sts.
Rows 1 to 6: garter stitch.
Row 7: k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k4. 16 sts.
Rows 8 to 14: st st.
Row 15: k5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k5. 14 sts.
Row 16: p.
Row 17: k4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4. 12 sts.
Rows 18 to 22: garter stitch.
BO.
Make an identical second upper.
For each shoe, knit a sole:
CO 12 sts.
Work 8 rows in garter stitch.
BO.
Sew upper to sole with a rounded toe.
Insert a thin sole stiffener before closing.
Add a small strap across the instep using a 6-stitch i-cord or crocheted chain in matching brown.
Sew a tiny white daisy to the outer side of each shoe strap.
Crossbody Bag
Using brown and US 2 needles, CO 18 sts.
Rows 1 to 22: st st.
BO.
Fold lower half upward to make a pouch.
Sew side seams.
For flap, pick up 18 sts from the back top edge.
Rows 1 to 6: st st.
Row 7: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
Row 8: p.
Row 9: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
Row 10: p.
BO.
For strap, make a cord about 13 inches long.
Sew one end to the upper left back corner of the bag and the other to the upper right back corner.
Drape the bag from the doll’s right shoulder to left hip.
Embroider one small red mushroom on the lower front flap corner.
Flower Hair Accents Make 2
Each flower has 5 white petals and a yellow center.
You may knit them or embroider them directly.
For knitted flowers, using white and US 2 needles, CO 15 sts.
Row 1 WS: p.
Row 2 RS: [k1, BO 2] repeat 5 times.
Gather strip into a circle and secure.
Add a French-knot style yellow center or tiny knitted yellow nub.
Add one green leaf beside each flower.
Sew the flowers low on each side of the comb.
Mini Hat Accessory
Using variegated brown-pink yarn and US 2 needles, CO 24 sts.
Join or work flat if preferred.
Rows 1 to 10: st st.
Row 11: k2tog across. 12 sts.
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.
For brim, pick up 24 sts around lower edge and work 4 rows garter stitch.
BO loosely.
Add a small pom-pom on top.
This accessory sits beside the doll in the image and does not need to fit the hen exactly.
Mini Watering Can Accessory
Using light gray-beige and US 2 needles, CO 10 sts.
Rows 1 to 14: st st.
BO.
Sew into a small cylinder and close the base.
Stuff lightly.
For the spout, CO 4 sts and work 8 rows i-cord.
For the handle, make a second short i-cord of 6 rows.
Attach both firmly.
Mini Egg Basket
Using rust brown and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts.
Rows 1 to 10: st st.
BO.
Sew into a tiny basket shape with a flat circular base.
Add a handle made from a narrow cord.
Knit or needle-felt 3 small eggs in pale blue, pale mint, and pale yellow.
Mini Flower Pot
Using terracotta brown and US 2 needles, CO 10 sts.
Rows 1 to 8: st st.
Rows 9 to 10: garter stitch.
BO.
Sew into a tiny pot and stuff with dark brown filling to mimic soil.
Add a small white flower with yellow center and two green leaves.
Detailed Assembly
- Sew and stuff the legs, then attach them into the lower body seam
- Sew and stuff the body
- Sew and stuff the head, then attach to body
- Attach the beak centered on the face
- Attach the wattles directly under the beak
- Attach the comb to the top center of the head
- Sew flowers on either side of the comb
- Attach the wings to the upper sides of the body, angled slightly downward
- Sew the blouse panel to front body
- Add the wide collar around neck
- Attach gathered skirt around waist
- Dress and sew cardigan into final position
- Add buttons to cardigan and blouse
- Sew shoes to the feet if desired, or leave removable
- Place bag strap across the torso and tack it at shoulder and hip
Exact Styling Notes for the Image Look
- Head shape: keep tall and elegant, not round
- Beak: broad and softly pointed, projecting forward
- Comb: clearly upright with three visible peaks
- Cardigan: slightly oversized through sleeves, but cropped in body
- Skirt: fuller than a simple tube, with a visible plaid texture
- Bag: hangs low across the body, resting at left hip
- Shoes: large and rounded for a storybook feel
- Flowers: white petals with buttery yellow centers
- Mushrooms: red caps with white dots, stitched small and neat
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
After all major seams are finished, shape the face with your fingers before securing the beak permanently.
Take time to center the beak and place the wattles evenly so the hen looks calm and balanced.
The eyes should appear small and gentle.
Tack the cardigan, skirt, collar, and bag lightly in hidden spots so the outfit stays exactly in place.
Care Notes
Handle the doll gently, especially around the flowers, mushrooms, and small accessories.
For display pieces, avoid frequent pulling on the bag strap, collar, or comb.
If the doll is intended for decor, place it away from direct sunlight and damp storage areas.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Is the head taller than it is wide?
- Is the beak centered and firmly stuffed?
- Are the comb and flowers balanced?
- Does the cardigan sit cropped above the skirt?
- Is the plaid stitched softly and evenly?
- Do the bag and shoes match the rustic color palette?
- Are the mushroom and daisy motifs clearly visible?
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean only with a lightly damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap.
Do not soak the doll, as stuffing and structure may lose shape.
Lay flat to dry and reshape the beak, skirt, and cardigan while drying.
Store accessories in a small box or fabric pouch so the tiny pieces remain clean and easy to find.
