Knitting Tutorial: Forest Badger Forager – Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting Tutorial: Forest Badger Forager – Free Knitting Pattern

This woodland badger doll is designed with a sweet oversized head, classic striped face, cozy forest-green sweater, roomy trousers, tiny crossbody satchel, knit hat, acorn topper, embroidered mushroom yoke, soft slippers, and charming woodland accessories. It is perfect for collectors who love handmade stuffed animals, heirloom nursery decor, seasonal woodland toys, artisan knitted dolls, and giftable forest creature designs. The finished piece has the warm look of a boutique handmade animal doll you might search for in terms like knitted badger doll, woodland nursery toy, collectible forest plush, or handmade stuffed badger gift.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This is a detailed flat-and-in-the-round toy knitting pattern for a seated forest badger with clothing and accessories made to closely match the image. The construction focuses on a large rounded head, a slimmer upper torso, slightly full seated legs, short tapered arms, small rounded ears, a centered white facial stripe, charcoal side panels, and a prominent black nose.

The sweater is the visual centerpiece of the outfit. It includes a high ribbed neck, cream chest panel, green upper section, beige sleeve stripes, a band of red mushrooms with pale stems and olive grass details, and a small acorn accent near the shoulder. The trousers are loose and ribbed at the waist and ankles, tied with a drawstring.

The accessories complete the look: a green beanie with pom-pom, brown slippers with leaf accents, a green knitted satchel with flap, miniature acorns, and a tiny red-and-cream mushroom ornament. Everything is scaled to the doll so the final presentation feels balanced and true to the reference.

Finished Size

  • Badger height: about 13.5 to 15 inches seated, depending on yarn and stuffing density
  • Head width: about 5.5 to 6 inches across at the widest point
  • Body from neck to crotch: about 4 inches
  • Leg length: about 4.5 inches each
  • Arm length: about 3.25 inches each
  • Hat height: about 3 inches excluding pom-pom
  • Satchel: about 2.25 inches tall

Skill Level

Intermediate to advanced toy knitter. A patient beginner can complete it if comfortable with shaping, mattress stitch, simple intarsia, duplicate stitch, basic embroidery, and sewing small parts with care.

Materials

  • Main yarn weight: DK yarn for the entire doll and accessories
  • Needles: US 2.5 / 3.0 mm straight needles and US 2.5 / 3.0 mm double-pointed needles or preferred small-circumference method
  • Optional smaller needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm for firmer accessories
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • Scrap yarn holders
  • Polyester toy stuffing
  • Weighted pellets in a fabric pouch, optional
  • Safety eyes: 8 mm black, or embroider eyes for children under 3
  • Black embroidery thread or black DK yarn

Suggested Colors

  • MC1 Cream: face stripe, muzzle base, sweater body motifs
  • MC2 Charcoal Gray: head side panels, ears, paws
  • MC3 Forest Green: sweater, trousers, hat, satchel
  • MC4 Warm Brown: slippers, acorn cap, trim
  • MC5 Tan: acorn body, beige sweater stripes
  • MC6 Brick Red: mushroom caps
  • MC7 Olive: grass detail
  • MC8 Black: nose, mouth detail
  • MC9 Mustard or Golden Brown: tiny leaf accent
  • MC10 Off-white: mushroom stem detail if different from cream

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette worked firmly with DK yarn on US 2.5 / 3.0 mm needles.

Toy knitting should be dense. If your stitches are loose, go down a needle size so stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • BO = bind off
  • k = knit
  • p = purl
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • RS = right side
  • WS = wrong side
  • inc = increase 1 stitch by knitting into front and back of stitch
  • dec = decrease 1 stitch by k2tog on RS or p2tog on WS where stated
  • ssk = slip, slip, knit
  • kfb = knit front and back
  • pm = place marker
  • sm = slip marker
  • rep = repeat
  • beg = beginning
  • st st = stockinette stitch
  • rnd = round

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Construction Notes

  • The head is worked in separate front and back sections to control the badger stripe placement exactly.
  • The body is knitted from the lower torso upward, then joined to the head by sewing.
  • The trousers and sweater are separate garments.
  • The slippers, satchel, hat, acorns, and mushroom are separate accessories.
  • Stuff firmly, especially the muzzle and top of head, so the profile looks full and sculpted.
  • Use light sculpting stitches around the eyes and muzzle for the most accurate expression.

Head Back

Using MC2 Charcoal Gray, CO 18 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: p all.
  2. Row 2 RS: k all.
  3. Row 3: p all.
  4. Row 4: kfb, k to last st, kfb. 20 sts.
  5. Row 5: p all.
  6. Row 6: kfb, k to last st, kfb. 22 sts.
  7. Row 7: p all.
  8. Row 8: kfb, k to last st, kfb. 24 sts.
  9. Row 9: p all.
  10. Row 10: k1, inc, k to last 2 sts, inc, k1. 26 sts.
  11. Row 11: p all.
  12. Row 12: k1, inc, k to last 2 sts, inc, k1. 28 sts.
  13. Rows 13 to 31: work in st st, ending with a WS row.
  14. Row 32: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
  15. Row 33: p all.
  16. Row 34: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
  17. Row 35: p all.
  18. Row 36: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 22 sts.
  19. Row 37: p all.
  20. Row 38: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 20 sts.
  21. Row 39: p all.
  22. Row 40: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 18 sts.

Leave stitches on holder for three-needle bind off or BO loosely if you prefer to seam later.

Head Front

The front is shaped in color blocks to create the badger stripe. Work with three small balls: MC2, MC1, MC2.

With MC2 CO 6, with MC1 CO 6, with MC2 CO 6. Total 18 sts.

Work all color changes by twisting yarns on WS to avoid holes.

  1. Row 1 WS: p6 MC2, p6 MC1, p6 MC2.
  2. Row 2 RS: k all in established colors.
  3. Row 3: p all.
  4. Row 4: inc at each outer edge only. 20 sts total.
  5. Row 5: p all.
  6. Row 6: inc at each outer edge only. 22 sts total.
  7. Row 7: p all.
  8. Row 8: inc at each outer edge only. 24 sts total.
  9. Row 9: p all.
  10. Row 10: k1, inc, work to last st, inc, k1. 26 sts.
  11. Row 11: p all.
  12. Row 12: k1, inc, work to last st, inc, k1. 28 sts.

Continue in st st for Rows 13 to 19, maintaining the 6-st center stripe in MC1 and the side panels in MC2.

Begin muzzle widening illusion by narrowing the stripe gradually below the eye line.

  1. Row 20 RS: k8 MC2, k12 MC1, k8 MC2 is not possible within stitch count, so adjust visually as follows: work 8 MC2, 12 MC1, 8 MC2 only after increasing first. Therefore Row 20 becomes increase row: k1, inc, k6 MC2, k12 MC1, k6 MC2, inc, k1. 30 sts.
  2. Row 21 WS: p all in colors as set.
  3. Rows 22 to 25: work even.

At this point, the stripe should appear broad from forehead to muzzle. If desired, duplicate-stitch small white flecks in the gray sections later to match the softly textured fur look.

Shape lower head:

  1. Row 26 RS: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
  2. Row 27 WS: p all.
  3. Row 28 RS: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
  4. Row 29 WS: p all.
  5. Row 30 RS: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
  6. Row 31 WS: p all.
  7. Row 32 RS: ssk, work to last 2 sts, k2tog. 22 sts.
  8. Row 33 WS: p all.
  9. Row 34 RS: ssk, work to last 2 sts, k2tog. 20 sts.

Leave stitches on holder or BO loosely.

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Muzzle Gusset

Using MC1 Cream, CO 8 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: p all.
  2. Row 2 RS: kfb, k to last st, kfb. 10 sts.
  3. Row 3: p all.
  4. Row 4: kfb, k to last st, kfb. 12 sts.
  5. Rows 5 to 11: work in st st.
  6. Row 12: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 10 sts.
  7. Row 13: p all.
  8. Row 14: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 8 sts.
  9. BO.

This piece will be lightly stuffed and sewn over the lower center front for the rounded snout.

Ears Make 2

Using MC2, CO 8 sts.

  1. Row 1 WS: p all.
  2. Row 2 RS: k all.
  3. Row 3: p all.
  4. Row 4: k1, inc, k to last 1 st, inc, k1. 10 sts.
  5. Rows 5 to 9: work in st st.
  6. Row 10: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 8 sts.
  7. Row 11: p all.
  8. Row 12: ssk, k4, k2tog. 6 sts.
  9. BO.

Fold each ear in half slightly at the base before sewing so it cups outward like the image.

Body

Using MC2 for neck base is optional, but for the hidden body under clothes, use MC1 or MC2. This pattern uses MC1.

CO 20 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: work 1×1 rib, starting Row 1 WS with p1, k1 across.
  2. Row 5 RS: switch to st st and inc 2 evenly across. 22 sts.
  3. Row 6: p all.
  4. Row 7: k1, inc, k to last 1 st, inc, k1. 24 sts.
  5. Row 8: p all.
  6. Rows 9 to 17: work even in st st.
  7. Row 18: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 22 sts.
  8. Row 19: p all.
  9. Row 20: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 20 sts.
  10. Rows 21 to 24: work even.
  11. Row 25: work 1×1 rib for neck.
  12. Rows 26 to 29: continue rib.
  13. BO in rib.

Sew side seam, stuff firmly at lower body and more lightly at upper body so clothing sits naturally.

Arms Make 2

Start at paw with MC2.

CO 8 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: st st.
  2. Row 5 RS: change to MC3 Forest Green if you want hidden sleeve under sweater, or keep MC1 for body arm. For best match under removable sweater, continue with MC1. Increase 2 evenly across. 10 sts.
  3. Rows 6 to 18: work in st st.
  4. Row 19: ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 8 sts.
  5. Row 20: p all.
  6. BO.

Sew seam, stuff lightly. Flatten top edge and sew at a downward angle so the arms rest close to the body.

Legs Make 2

Using MC2, CO 10 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 5: st st for paw.
  2. Row 6 RS: switch to MC1 or MC2 hidden leg color and inc 2 evenly across. 12 sts.
  3. Rows 7 to 24: work in st st.
  4. Row 25: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 10 sts.
  5. Rows 26 to 28: work even.
  6. BO.

Sew seams. Stuff the foot firmly, lower leg medium-firm, and upper leg lightly so the finished doll can sit with softly bent legs.

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Tail

The tail is hidden by the seated pose and clothing, but adding a tiny tail improves the back silhouette.

Using MC2, CO 6 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 8: st st.
  2. BO.

Sew into a tiny tube, stuff lightly, and attach low on the back.

Sweater

This sweater is worked flat in pieces. The fit should be slightly roomy but not oversized. The neck is high and close, sleeves are narrow, and the body ends just above the trouser waist.

Sweater Back

Using MC3 Forest Green, CO 24 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 6: work 1×1 rib.
  2. Row 7 RS: switch to st st.
  3. Rows 8 to 20: work even.
  4. Row 21: BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows for armholes. 20 sts.
  5. Rows 23 to 30: work even.
  6. Row 31: k6, BO 8, k6.
  7. Row 32: p6, join second ball, p6.
  8. Row 33: k6, CO 8, k6.
  9. Rows 34 to 38: work even.
  10. BO.

Sweater Front

Using MC3, CO 24 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 6: work 1×1 rib.
  2. Rows 7 to 10: st st in MC3.
  3. Row 11 RS: switch to MC5 Tan and work 2 rows.
  4. Row 13 RS: switch to MC3 and work 4 rows.
  5. Row 17 RS: switch to MC5 Tan and work 2 rows.
  6. Row 19 RS: switch to MC3 and work 2 rows.

Now begin motif section. Work background in MC1 Cream over center 16 sts, keeping 4 sts at each side in MC3.

  1. Row 21 RS: k4 MC3, k16 MC1, k4 MC3.
  2. Row 22 WS: p4 MC3, p16 MC1, p4 MC3.
  3. Rows 23 to 28: continue in this color layout.

Embroider or duplicate-stitch the mushroom border after knitting for the cleanest result. Place 4 small red mushroom caps across the cream panel, each about 2 to 3 stitches wide. Under each cap add pale stems and olive grass tufts. Keep them low on the cream band, like a decorative yoke scene.

Continue upper chest:

  1. Rows 29 to 32: k all RS rows and p all WS rows, keeping side 4 sts in MC3 and center 16 sts in MC1.
  2. Row 33 RS: switch whole row to MC3.
  3. Rows 34 to 38: work even in MC3.
  4. Row 39: BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows for armholes. 20 sts.
  5. Rows 41 to 44: work even.
  6. Row 45 RS: k7, BO 6, k7.
  7. Row 46 WS: p7, join second ball, p7.
  8. Row 47 RS: k7, CO 6, k7.
  9. Rows 48 to 50: work even.
  10. BO.

After knitting, duplicate-stitch a tiny acorn near the upper right chest area in warm brown and tan.

Sleeves Make 2

Using MC3, CO 14 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 5: 1×1 rib.
  2. Row 6 RS: switch to st st.
  3. Rows 7 to 8: MC3.
  4. Rows 9 to 10: MC5 Tan stripe.
  5. Rows 11 to 13: MC3.
  6. Rows 14 to 15: MC5 Tan stripe.
  7. Rows 16 to 20: MC3.
  8. Row 21: BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 10 sts.
  9. Rows 23 to 25: work even.
  10. BO.

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Collar

Sew shoulder seams first. With RS facing and MC3, pick up 28 sts around neckline.

  1. Rounds or rows 1 to 8: work 1×1 rib.
  2. BO loosely in rib.

Fold collar slightly outward only at the top edge if desired, but the image shows it mostly standing upright.

Trousers

The trousers are roomy at the hips with ribbed waist and ankles. They sit high on the badger and are tied with a front drawstring.

Work each leg separately first.

Leg One

Using MC3, CO 16 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 6: 1×1 rib.
  2. Rows 7 to 26: st st.
  3. Leave on holder.

Leg Two

Work same as Leg One.

Join Legs

On RS, knit across Leg One, CO 4 sts, knit across Leg Two. 36 sts.

  1. Next WS row: p all.
  2. Rows 2 to 12: work even in st st.
  3. Row 13 RS: k2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. 34 sts.
  4. Rows 14 to 18: work even.
  5. Row 19 RS: dec 2 evenly across. 32 sts.
  6. Rows 20 to 24: work 1×1 rib.
  7. BO loosely in rib.

Sew leg seams and crotch seam. Thread a knitted cord or twisted yarn tie through the waist ribbing and tie at center front.

Slippers Make 2

Using MC4 Warm Brown, CO 12 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 4: garter stitch.
  2. Row 5 RS: k all.
  3. Row 6 WS: p all.
  4. Rows 7 to 10: continue st st.
  5. Row 11: k2tog, k8, k2tog. 10 sts.
  6. Row 12: p all.
  7. Row 13: k2tog, k6, k2tog. 8 sts.
  8. BO.

Sew into rounded bootie slippers around the feet. Add a folded cuff in brown. Duplicate-stitch or sew a tiny mustard leaf on one outer edge of each slipper to reflect the woodland styling.

Hat

Using MC3, CO 36 sts. Join for working in the round, taking care not to twist.

  1. Rounds 1 to 8: k1, p1 rib.
  2. Rounds 9 to 18: knit all rounds.
  3. Round 19: k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
  4. Round 20: knit.
  5. Round 21: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
  6. Round 22: knit.
  7. Round 23: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
  8. Round 24: knit.
  9. Round 25: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
  10. Round 26: k2tog around. 6 sts.

Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight. Make a full pom-pom and attach at crown. Sew a tiny miniature acorn charm to the folded brim edge if desired.

Satchel

Using MC3, CO 14 sts.

  1. Rows 1 to 16: work st st, slipping first stitch of each row for neat edges.
  2. Rows 17 to 20: garter stitch for flap edge.
  3. BO.

Fold lower 11 rows upward to form bag. Sew side seams. For the flap, allow the top section to fold over naturally.

For strap, CO 3 sts and work i-cord for about 14 inches, or knit a narrow flat strap of 3 stitches in garter until long enough to cross from shoulder to hip. Sew securely.

Add a tiny squirrel-shaped button, knot, or embroidered circle on the flap center to mimic the decorative closure seen in the image.

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Acorn Ornament for Head

This acorn sits on the badger head like a woodland clip.

Acorn Body

Using MC5 Tan, CO 6 sts on dpns and join.

  1. Round 1: kfb around. 12 sts.
  2. Rounds 2 to 5: knit.
  3. Round 6: k2tog around. 6 sts.

Stuff lightly, close.

Acorn Cap

Using MC4 Brown, CO 6 sts on dpns and join.

  1. Round 1: kfb around. 12 sts.
  2. Rounds 2 to 3: knit.
  3. Round 4: k2tog around. 6 sts.

Sew cap over top half of acorn body. Attach to head near one ear at a slightly tilted angle.

Loose Acorns Make 2

Make two additional mini acorns exactly as above for the table accessories. One can be darker and one lighter for visual variety.

Mini Mushroom Ornament

Stem

Using MC10 or MC1, CO 6 sts on dpns and join.

  1. Rounds 1 to 4: knit.
  2. Stuff lightly.

Cap

Using MC6 Brick Red, CO 6 sts and join.

  1. Round 1: kfb around. 12 sts.
  2. Round 2: knit.
  3. Round 3: k1, kfb around. 18 sts.
  4. Round 4: knit.
  5. Round 5: k2tog around. 9 sts.

Sew cap to stem and add tiny cream duplicate-stitch dots.

Facial Details

The face determines whether the finished badger truly resembles the image. Take your time here.

  • Place eyes about 8 stitches apart and 5 rows above the muzzle top.
  • The eyes should sit low on the head, tucked close to the muzzle stripe for a gentle expression.
  • Sculpt lightly by drawing thread from the back of head to each eye placement and pulling very slightly.
  • The nose is a rounded horizontal oval, not a pointed triangle.
  • Embroider the nose in satin stitches over the stuffed muzzle using black yarn.
  • Add a short vertical line below the nose and a tiny split mouth line only 1 to 2 stitches long.
  • If desired, add tiny white duplicate-stitch flecks in the charcoal forehead panels.

Mushroom Sweater Embroidery Guide

After the sweater is assembled, embroider four mushrooms across the cream band on the chest.

  • Each cap should be about 3 stitches wide and 2 rows tall in brick red.
  • Add 1 vertical stitch stem in cream or off-white below each cap.
  • Between mushrooms, add short olive straight stitches for grass.
  • Keep motifs low enough that the satchel strap can still cross the chest without hiding all details.

Assembly Order

  1. Sew head front and back together, leaving lower edge open.
  2. Insert muzzle gusset onto lower face and sew in place while stuffing firmly.
  3. Insert eyes before fully closing the head if using safety eyes.
  4. Stuff the head firmly, especially crown, cheeks, and muzzle.
  5. Sew body, arms, legs, and tail.
  6. Attach legs first so the doll sits evenly.
  7. Attach body to head, making sure the white stripe is centered.
  8. Attach arms angled slightly downward.
  9. Sew ears high and outward.
  10. Dress the badger in trousers, then sweater, then slippers.
  11. Add satchel across the front from left shoulder to right hip.
  12. Attach hat and optional head acorn.
  13. Arrange loose table accessories last if displaying as styled decor.

Detailed Shaping Notes for Accuracy

The head should be noticeably larger than the body. Do not under-stuff the head. The cheeks should look full, and the muzzle should project slightly from the face. The forehead must remain rounded, not flat.

The body should be slimmer than the head and mostly hidden by clothing. The seated character in the image has soft, stuffed legs with rounded knees and broad paws. To achieve this, stuff the feet firmly, reduce stuffing slightly at the upper thighs, and bend the legs before sewing them into place.

The arms are not long. They stop around trouser waist level. Keep them short and slightly tapered. The paws should remain visible beyond the sweater cuffs as gray tips.

The ears are small, rounded, and placed high, but not at the very top. Leave enough room between the ears for the acorn accessory. The nose should be centered exactly on the cream stripe, and the mouth should remain very subtle.

Optional Interior Weighting

If you want the badger to sit securely on a shelf, place a small pouch of pellets inside the lower body before final stuffing. Keep the weighted pouch enclosed in fabric and surrounded by stuffing so it does not shift.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face from straight on before tightening all sewing threads. The white stripe should run centrally from crown to muzzle. Position the nose low and broad. Keep the eyes evenly spaced and slightly inset. Steam only the clothing pieces lightly if needed, never the stuffed head.

Care Notes

Handle the accessories gently, especially the satchel strap, hat pom-pom, acorn topper, and small table decorations. This doll is best treated as a decorative knitted keepsake rather than a rough-play toy.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Head firmly stuffed and symmetrical
  • White facial stripe centered
  • Nose broad and neat
  • Ears matched and evenly placed
  • Sweater motifs embroidered clearly
  • Trousers tied at front
  • Satchel strap secure
  • Slippers aligned evenly
  • Hat fits snugly
  • All yarn tails woven in securely

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine wash. Reshape by hand and air dry flat away from direct heat or harsh sun. Store in a clean dry place. If displaying seasonally, keep the doll in a breathable cotton bag to protect it from dust.

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