Knitting Tutorial: Cottagecore Basset Hound with Gnomes – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming knit toy is a cozy cottagecore woodland-style hound doll with a rounded tan face, shaggy brown mane-like fur framing the head, a cream hood, a blue overall-style body, striped cream-and-blue cardigan sleeves, tiny woodland animal patches, a small crossbody pouch, and sturdy brown boots with laces. The finished design also includes soft acorn and leaf props to echo the garden-table scene.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written as a detailed knitted plush pattern in US English. The toy is worked mainly in the round for a smooth stuffed shape, with separate clothing pieces knitted flat and seamed in place. The design focuses on a soft, seated doll shape with a large rounded head, small oval muzzle, drooping hood, rounded arms, blue pants, and short boots.

The finished toy is designed to measure about 13 inches tall when seated-style legs are extended downward, using DK-weight yarn and small needles. You may adjust the final size by changing yarn weight and needle size, but keep the gauge firm so the stuffing does not show between stitches.

Finished Size

• Finished height: approximately 13 in / 33 cm from top of hood to bottom of boots.
• Head width: approximately 4.75 in / 12 cm across the widest point.
• Body height: approximately 5 in / 12.5 cm from neck to crotch.
• Leg length: approximately 4.25 in / 11 cm including knitted boot cuffs.
• Arm length: approximately 4 in / 10 cm from shoulder to paw.
• Pouch size: approximately 1.75 in wide by 1.6 in tall.

Skill Level

This is an intermediate knitted toy pattern, but a patient beginner can follow it because every main section gives stitch counts and shaping instructions. You should be comfortable knitting in the round, increasing, decreasing, changing colors, seaming small parts, and embroidering simple details.

Materials

• DK-weight yarn in tan: 45 g for face, paws, and visible body skin.
• DK-weight yarn in cream: 55 g for hood, cardigan body, pouch, sleeve cuffs, and small shoe details.
• DK-weight yarn in dusty blue: 45 g for overalls, front bib, and pants.
• DK-weight yarn in medium blue: 18 g for cardigan stripes and neck panel.
• DK-weight yarn in chestnut brown: 20 g for boot tops, ears, tail, patch embroidery, and acorns.
• Faux fur yarn or eyelash yarn in reddish brown: 20 g for the shaggy face frame and tail accent.
• Small amount of black yarn: for nose, mouth, and optional eye shine outline.
• Small amount of white yarn: for animal patch eyes and tiny highlights.
• Small amount of rust orange yarn: for fox patch.
• Small amount of moss green yarn: for leaves and optional pouch flower stem.
• Small amount of beige or light oatmeal yarn: for acorn caps and boot soles.
• 2 black safety eyes: 8 mm, or embroider eyes if making for a child under 3.
• Polyester fiberfill: firm toy stuffing.
• US 2 / 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or magic-loop circular needle.
• US 3 / 3.25 mm straight needles for clothing pieces if you prefer a slightly softer drape.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers, pins, row counter, and small scissors.
• Optional: thin brown cord or embroidery floss for boot laces.

Gauge

Using DK yarn and US 2 / 2.75 mm needles, work 28 stitches and 38 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette stitch after light blocking. For the plush body, a tight gauge is more important than matching the exact measurement. The knitted fabric should be firm, smooth, and dense.

Abbreviations

• BO: bind off.
• CO: cast on.
• dec: decrease.
• inc: increase.
• k: knit.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• kfb: knit into front and back of the same stitch.
• m1L: make 1 left increase.
• m1R: make 1 right increase.
• p: purl.
• pm: place marker.
• rem: remaining.
• rep: repeat.
• rnd: round.
• RS: right side.
• sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise.
• ssk: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• WS: wrong side.

Important Construction Notes

The plush is built from a firm knitted head, a rounded body, two legs, two arms, separate ears, a shaggy fur frame, a hooded cardigan, blue overalls, brown boots, and small props. The face is tan and smooth, while the outer head has a soft reddish-brown furry frame visible inside the cream hood.

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For a result close to the image, do not overstuff the limbs. The head should be firm and round, the body should be slightly pear-shaped, and the legs should sit straight downward. The hood should frame the head in a soft oval, with the cream edge rolling gently forward.

Body and Head Proportions

• Head: large and round, about 38 percent of the full toy height.
• Face: tan oval front, with black oval eyes placed high and a black triangular nose centered below.
• Fur frame: reddish-brown fuzzy ring around the face, visible under the hood.
• Body: compact and softly rounded, covered by blue overalls and cream cardigan.
• Arms: short, slightly tapered, tan paws emerging from cream cuffs.
• Legs: straight blue pant legs ending in structured brown boots.
• Accessories: cream pouch, small animal patches, acorns, leaves, and optional tiny garden shoes.

Head

Work the head in tan yarn in the round. Stuff firmly as you go, especially before the final decreases. The head must be round and smooth with a slightly longer lower face, so the nose can sit neatly above the mouth.

1. With tan yarn and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Rnd 1: k all 8 sts.
2. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. You now have 16 sts.
3. Rnd 3: k all sts.
4. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 24 sts.
5. Rnd 5: k all sts.
6. Rnd 6: *k2, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 32 sts.
7. Rnd 7: k all sts.
8. Rnd 8: *k3, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 40 sts.
9. Rnd 9: k all sts.
10. Rnd 10: *k4, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 48 sts.
11. Rnd 11: k all sts.
12. Rnd 12: *k5, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 56 sts.
13. Rnd 13: k all sts.
14. Rnd 14: *k6, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 64 sts.
15. Rnds 15–28: k all 64 sts for 14 rounds. This creates the widest, rounded face area.
16. Rnd 29: k18, m1R, k28, m1L, k18. You now have 66 sts for a gentle cheek fullness.
17. Rnds 30–35: k all 66 sts.
18. Rnd 36: *k9, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 60 sts.
19. Rnd 37: k all sts.
20. Rnd 38: *k8, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 54 sts.
21. Rnd 39: k all sts.
22. Rnd 40: *k7, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 48 sts.
23. Rnd 41: k all sts.
24. Rnd 42: *k6, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 42 sts.
25. Rnd 43: k all sts.
26. Rnd 44: *k5, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 36 sts.
27. Insert safety eyes between Rnds 25 and 26, placing them 11 sts apart across the front.
28. Begin stuffing the head firmly. Shape the cheeks with your fingers so the face remains oval, not flat.
29. Rnd 45: *k4, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 30 sts.
30. Rnd 46: *k3, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 24 sts.
31. Add more stuffing, making the top full and the lower face softly rounded.
32. Rnd 47: *k2, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 18 sts.
33. Rnd 48: *k1, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 12 sts.
34. Rnd 49: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
35. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and weave in securely.

Muzzle Shaping and Nose Area

The muzzle is not a separate bulky snout. In the image, it appears as a softly shaped tan front with a black triangular nose worked directly onto the lower center. Use embroidery and gentle sculpting to create that expression.

1. Thread a long strand of tan yarn onto a tapestry needle.
2. Enter at the back of the head and come out at the lower center front, about 6 rounds below the eyes.
3. Make a small horizontal shaping stitch across 5 sts, then pull gently to create a soft indentation under the nose area.
4. Repeat the shaping stitch once more, keeping the pull light so the face stays round.
5. With black yarn, embroider a triangle nose over 6 sts wide and 4 rounds tall.
6. Fill the triangle with satin stitches, working from the top edge down to the point.
7. From the bottom point of the nose, embroider one straight vertical line over 3 rounds.
8. Add a tiny V-shaped mouth with two diagonal stitches, each 3 sts long.

Inner Shaggy Fur Frame

The reddish-brown furry frame is a key feature. It sits around the tan face like a soft mane inside the cream hood. Faux fur yarn can be difficult to count, so knit it separately as a flat strip and sew it around the face.

1. With reddish-brown faux fur yarn and US 3 needles, CO 9 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Rows 3–54: continue in stockinette stitch, knitting RS rows and purling WS rows.
5. Hold the strip around the face from left lower cheek, over the forehead, and down to right lower cheek.
6. If the strip is too short, add 4 more rows. If it is too long, remove rows before binding off.
7. BO all sts loosely, leaving a 16 in tail for sewing.
8. Pin the strip around the face, about 3 sts outside the eye line and 2 rounds away from the cheeks.
9. Sew using small whipstitches through the back loops of the strip, keeping the fur side facing outward.
10. Brush the fur gently with your fingers so it frames the face in a soft uneven halo.

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Body

The body is knitted in tan yarn first as the inner stuffed form, then covered by blue overalls and a cardigan. This gives the toy strength and makes the clothing sit neatly without collapsing into the stuffing.

1. With tan yarn and US 2 needles, CO 10 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. You now have 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: *k2, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 40 sts.
8. Rnd 7: k all sts.
9. Rnd 8: *k3, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 50 sts.
10. Rnds 9–20: k all 50 sts.
11. Rnd 21: k12, k2tog, k22, ssk, k12. You now have 48 sts.
12. Rnds 22–25: k all sts.
13. Rnd 26: *k6, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 42 sts.
14. Rnds 27–30: k all sts.
15. Rnd 31: *k5, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 36 sts.
16. Rnds 32–34: k all sts.
17. Rnd 35: *k4, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 30 sts.
18. Rnds 36–38: k all sts for the neck base.
19. Stuff the body firmly, keeping the lower body wider than the upper chest.
20. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for attaching the head.

Legs

Make two legs. The upper legs are blue to look like knitted pant legs. The boot section is worked after the leg, using brown yarn, and shaped to be slightly wider and flatter at the foot.

Blue Pant Leg

1. With dusty blue yarn and US 2 needles, CO 18 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnds 1–4: k2, p2 rib around for a firm ankle edge.
3. Rnds 5–20: k all sts.
4. Rnd 21: k4, kfb, k8, kfb, k4. You now have 20 sts.
5. Rnds 22–30: k all sts.
6. BO all sts, leaving a 12 in tail for sewing to the body.
7. Stuff the leg lightly. Keep it cylindrical, not round like a ball.

Brown Boot Foot

1. With chestnut brown yarn, pick up 18 sts around the cast-on edge of one blue pant leg.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: k6, kfb in next 6 sts, k6. You now have 24 sts.
4. Rnds 3–7: k all sts.
5. Rnd 8: k8, k2tog four times, k8. You now have 20 sts. This shapes the front toe.
6. Rnd 9: k all sts.
7. Rnd 10: k6, k2tog four times, k6. You now have 16 sts.
8. Stuff the boot toe firmly enough to keep a rounded shoe shape.
9. Rnd 11: k2tog around. You now have 8 sts.
10. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Boot Sole and Lace Detail

1. With beige yarn and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k6, kfb. You now have 10 sts.
5. Rows 4–10: work stockinette stitch.
6. Row 11: ssk, k6, k2tog. You now have 8 sts.
7. Row 12: p all sts.
8. BO all sts. Make 2 soles.
9. Sew one sole to the bottom of each boot, easing it into an oval shape.
10. With brown embroidery floss, make 3 horizontal lace bars across the front of each boot.
11. Add two crossed diagonal stitches over the bars, then tie a tiny bow or stitch a bow shape flat.

Arms

The arms have tan paws and cream sleeves with blue stripes. They should hang slightly away from the body, angled down from the shoulders. Make two matching arms.

Tan Paw

1. With tan yarn and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in each st around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnds 3–7: k all sts.
5. Rnd 8: *k2, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 12 sts.
6. Rnd 9: k all sts.

Striped Sleeve

1. Join cream yarn. Rnd 10: k all 12 sts.
2. Rnd 11: p all sts to create a small cuff ridge.
3. Rnd 12: k all sts in cream.
4. Join medium blue. Rnds 13–14: k all sts in blue.
5. Switch to cream. Rnds 15–16: k all sts in cream.
6. Switch to medium blue. Rnds 17–18: k all sts in blue.
7. Switch to cream. Rnds 19–20: k all sts in cream.
8. Switch to medium blue. Rnds 21–22: k all sts in blue.
9. Switch to cream. Rnds 23–24: k all sts in cream.
10. Rnd 25: k all sts in cream.
11. Stuff the paw firmly and the sleeve lightly.
12. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Tail

The tail appears as a soft brown furry accent peeking from behind one side. It should be short, rounded, and slightly curved, not long or stiff.

1. With chestnut brown yarn, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: *k1, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 12 sts.
4. Rnds 3–8: k all sts.
5. Join reddish-brown faux fur yarn. Rnds 9–13: k all sts carefully.
6. Rnd 14: k2tog around. You now have 6 sts.
7. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.
8. Stuff lightly and sew to the back left side of the body at a downward angle.

Ears

The ears sit mostly under the shaggy frame and hood, so only a soft brown edge may show near the lower sides of the face. Make two small drooping ears.

1. With chestnut brown yarn and US 2 needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: kfb, k8, kfb. You now have 12 sts.
5. Rows 4–12: work stockinette stitch.
6. Row 13: ssk, k8, k2tog. You now have 10 sts.
7. Row 14: p all sts.
8. Row 15: ssk, k6, k2tog. You now have 8 sts.
9. Row 16: p all sts.
10. Row 17: ssk, k4, k2tog. You now have 6 sts.
11. BO all sts.
12. Sew one ear to each side of the head, beginning just behind the eye line and letting it droop downward.

Blue Overalls

The overalls are knitted separately in dusty blue and fitted over the stuffed body and legs. They include pant legs, a front bib, and straps that disappear under the cardigan. The image shows the blue body as a smooth central panel between cardigan fronts.

Overall Pants Front

1. With dusty blue yarn and US 2 needles, CO 34 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Rows 3–10: continue stockinette stitch.
5. Row 11: k15, BO 4 sts, k15. This creates the center crotch split.
6. Work the first 15 sts for the left pant front. Rows 12–23: stockinette stitch.
7. BO the left pant front.
8. Rejoin yarn to the second 15 sts. Rows 12–23: stockinette stitch.
9. BO the right pant front.

Overall Pants Back

1. With dusty blue yarn, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1–10: stockinette stitch, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 11: k15, BO 4 sts, k15.
4. Work each back leg separately for 12 more rows, exactly as for the front.
5. BO both back leg sections.
6. Seam front and back side edges around each leg, leaving the waist open.
7. Slide the pants over the toy legs and body, then secure at the waist with small invisible stitches.

Overall Bib

1. With dusty blue yarn, pick up 18 sts across the center front waist.
2. Rows 1–12: work stockinette stitch, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 13: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. You now have 16 sts.
4. Row 14: p all sts.
5. Row 15: k1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. You now have 14 sts.
6. Rows 16–18: stockinette stitch.
7. BO all sts.

Overall Straps

1. With dusty blue yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Rows 1–26: k all sts to create a garter strap.
3. BO all sts. Make 2 straps.
4. Sew one end of each strap to the top corners of the bib.
5. Cross the straps lightly over the shoulders and secure them to the back waist.

Cream Hooded Cardigan

The cardigan is the most visible clothing piece. It has cream fronts, horizontal blue stripes on the sleeves and upper body, a soft hood, and a slightly open center showing the blue overall bib. Knit the cardigan flat, then seam it onto the doll so it looks fitted.

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Cardigan Back

1. With cream yarn and US 3 needles, CO 38 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: k all sts for a garter hem.
3. Rows 5–6: with cream, work stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 7–8: with medium blue, work stockinette stitch.
5. Rows 9–10: with cream, work stockinette stitch.
6. Rows 11–12: with medium blue, work stockinette stitch.
7. Rows 13–14: with cream, work stockinette stitch.
8. Rows 15–16: with medium blue, work stockinette stitch.
9. Rows 17–18: with cream, work stockinette stitch.
10. Rows 19–20: with medium blue, work stockinette stitch.
11. Rows 21–26: with cream, work stockinette stitch.
12. Row 27: k2, ssk, k30, k2tog, k2. You now have 36 sts.
13. Row 28: p all sts.
14. Row 29: k2, ssk, k28, k2tog, k2. You now have 34 sts.
15. Rows 30–34: stockinette stitch in cream.
16. BO all sts.

Left Front

1. With cream yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: k all sts for the lower edge.
3. Rows 5–6: cream stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 7–8: medium blue stockinette stitch.
5. Rows 9–10: cream stockinette stitch.
6. Rows 11–12: medium blue stockinette stitch.
7. Rows 13–14: cream stockinette stitch.
8. Rows 15–16: medium blue stockinette stitch.
9. Rows 17–18: cream stockinette stitch.
10. Rows 19–20: medium blue stockinette stitch.
11. Rows 21–26: cream stockinette stitch.
12. Row 27: k2, ssk, k to end. You now have 19 sts.
13. Row 28: p all sts.
14. Row 29: k2, ssk, k to end. You now have 18 sts.
15. Rows 30–34: stockinette stitch in cream.
16. BO all sts.

Right Front

1. With cream yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1–26: work exactly as for the left front, matching the stripe order.
3. Row 27: k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. You now have 19 sts.
4. Row 28: p all sts.
5. Row 29: k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. You now have 18 sts.
6. Rows 30–34: stockinette stitch in cream.
7. BO all sts.

Sleeves

The sleeves should match the visible striped sleeves in the photo. Make two sleeves and sew them around the arms after the arms are attached, or seam them first and slide them over the arms before final sewing.

1. With cream yarn and US 3 needles, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: k all sts for the cuff.
3. Rows 5–6: cream stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 7–8: medium blue stockinette stitch.
5. Rows 9–10: cream stockinette stitch.
6. Rows 11–12: medium blue stockinette stitch.
7. Rows 13–14: cream stockinette stitch.
8. Rows 15–16: medium blue stockinette stitch.
9. Rows 17–18: cream stockinette stitch.
10. Rows 19–20: medium blue stockinette stitch.
11. Rows 21–22: cream stockinette stitch.
12. Row 23: k2, m1R, k14, m1L, k2. You now have 20 sts.
13. Rows 24–28: stockinette stitch in cream.
14. BO all sts.
15. Seam the long edge of each sleeve. Slide over each arm, keeping the cuff near the tan paw.

Hood

The hood is cream and should sit behind the shaggy fur frame, forming a deep oval around the head. It is knitted flat with a rounded crown seam. Use a slightly loose tension so it drapes softly.

1. With cream yarn and US 3 needles, CO 56 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: k all sts to make the front hood border.
3. Row 5: k4, p48, k4.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until you have 28 rows total.
6. Row 29: k4, p10, p2tog, p28, p2tog, p10, k4. You now have 54 sts.
7. Row 30: k all sts.
8. Row 31: k4, p9, p2tog, p28, p2tog, p9, k4. You now have 52 sts.
9. Row 32: k all sts.
10. Row 33: k4, p8, p2tog, p28, p2tog, p8, k4. You now have 50 sts.
11. Rows 34–38: continue in hood border pattern with 4 garter sts at each edge.
12. BO all sts loosely.
13. Fold the hood in half with right sides together. Sew the back crown seam from the top down 3.5 inches.
14. Pin the lower hood edge around the back neck of the cardigan and sew in place.
15. Let the front edge roll forward slightly around the furry face frame.

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Cardigan Assembly

1. Sew the cardigan back to the two front pieces at the shoulder edges.
2. Sew the side seams from lower hem to underarm, leaving space for the sleeves.
3. Attach sleeves into the armholes with small mattress stitches.
4. Place the cardigan on the toy body, letting the fronts hang open over the blue bib.
5. Secure the cardigan invisibly at the shoulders, underarms, and lower side seams so it stays in position.
6. Do not close the cardigan front; the open shape is important to match the image.

Front Cardigan Animal Patches

The small patch motifs are what give the cardigan its storybook look. The left front shows a tiny rust fox-like patch, and the right front shows a pale owl-like patch. These are embroidered directly onto the knitted cardigan after it is sewn on.

Tiny Fox Patch

1. Using rust orange yarn, make a small vertical oval with duplicate stitch over 5 sts wide and 7 rows tall on the lower left cardigan front.
2. Use cream yarn to duplicate stitch a tiny chest triangle over 3 sts wide and 4 rows tall.
3. With chestnut yarn, add two tiny ears using diagonal stitches at the top.
4. With black yarn, make two single-stitch eyes and one tiny nose.
5. Add a short brown tail curve using 4 backstitches along the side of the body.

Tiny Owl Patch

1. Using beige yarn, duplicate stitch a small rounded body over 6 sts wide and 6 rows tall on the lower right cardigan front.
2. With white yarn, make two round eye circles using 3 small stitches each.
3. With black yarn, place one tiny stitch inside each white eye.
4. With chestnut yarn, add two small wings with vertical stitches along each side.
5. With rust yarn, add one tiny beak stitch between the eyes.

Cream Crossbody Pouch

The pouch hangs at the front-left side with a long cream strap crossing from the shoulder to the bag. It is small, rounded, and decorated with a tiny flower motif. The pouch should rest over the blue pants and cream cardigan edge.

Pouch Body

1. With cream yarn and US 2 needles, CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Rows 3–14: stockinette stitch.
5. Row 15: k1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. You now have 12 sts.
6. Row 16: p all sts.
7. Row 17: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. You now have 10 sts.
8. Row 18: p all sts.
9. BO all sts.
10. Make a second matching piece.
11. Place the two pieces together and seam around the sides and bottom.
12. Lightly stuff with a tiny amount of fiberfill so the pouch puffs softly.

Pouch Flap

1. With cream yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1–4: k all sts.
3. Row 5: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. You now have 10 sts.
4. Row 6: k all sts.
5. Row 7: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. You now have 8 sts.
6. BO all sts.
7. Sew the straight edge of the flap to the top back of the pouch.

Pouch Strap

1. With cream yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Work garter stitch for 76 rows, or until the strap crosses from the right shoulder to the left hip.
3. BO all sts.
4. Sew one strap end to each side of the pouch.
5. Position the strap across the chest and secure it with two hidden stitches at the shoulder and side.

Pouch Flower

1. With moss green yarn, embroider one vertical stem, 4 rows tall, at the pouch center.
2. With rust yarn, make 5 small petal stitches around the top of the stem.
3. With beige yarn, place one small knot in the flower center.

Optional Garden Hat Prop

The image includes a small cream garden hat resting beside the toy. This prop is not worn on the doll, but it completes the cottagecore setting. Knit it as a flat circular brim and shallow crown.

Hat Crown

1. With cream yarn and US 2 needles, CO 8 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb around. You now have 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: *k1, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: *k2, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 32 sts.
8. Rnds 7–14: k all sts.
9. BO loosely.

Hat Brim

1. With cream yarn, pick up 32 sts around the lower crown edge.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: *k3, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 40 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: *k4, kfb; rep from * around. You now have 48 sts.
6. Rnd 5: p all sts for a brim ridge.
7. Rnd 6: k all sts.
8. BO loosely.
9. With moss green yarn, knit an i-cord 12 inches long and tie it around the crown as a ribbon.

Optional Tiny Shoes Prop

The little green-and-cream shoes beside the doll can be knitted as small decorative props. They are not required for the main plush, but they help recreate the full image scene.

1. With cream yarn, CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1–4: k all sts.
3. Join moss green yarn. Rnd 5: k all sts.
4. Rnd 6: k4, kfb in next 2 sts, k4. You now have 12 sts.
5. Rnds 7–9: k all sts.
6. Rnd 10: k4, k2tog twice, k4. You now have 10 sts.
7. Rnd 11: k2tog around. You now have 5 sts.
8. Cut yarn and close toe.
9. Make a second shoe.
10. With beige yarn, embroider a small button circle on the outer side of each shoe.

Acorns

Several small acorns are scattered around the toy in the image. Make three or more in different brown tones. These are worked quickly in the round.

1. With lower acorn color, CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb around. You now have 12 sts.
4. Rnds 3–6: k all sts.
5. Rnd 7: *k1, k2tog; rep from * around. You now have 8 sts.
6. Stuff very lightly.
7. Switch to cap color. Rnd 8: k all sts.
8. Rnd 9: p all sts for cap texture.
9. Rnd 10: k2tog around. You now have 4 sts.
10. Cut yarn, pull closed, and knot securely.
11. For a stem, embroider 2 short straight stitches at the top.

Knitted Leaves

Small green and brown leaves add a natural garden feeling. Make at least two green leaves and one rust-brown leaf. They are knitted flat and shaped with decreases.

1. With moss green yarn and US 2 needles, CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: kfb, k1, kfb. You now have 5 sts.
4. Row 3: k all sts.
5. Row 4: kfb, k3, kfb. You now have 7 sts.
6. Row 5: k all sts.
7. Row 6: kfb, k5, kfb. You now have 9 sts.
8. Rows 7–10: k all sts.
9. Row 11: ssk, k5, k2tog. You now have 7 sts.
10. Row 12: k all sts.
11. Row 13: ssk, k3, k2tog. You now have 5 sts.
12. Row 14: k all sts.
13. Row 15: ssk, k1, k2tog. You now have 3 sts.
14. Row 16: sl1, k2tog, pass slipped st over. You now have 1 st.
15. Cut yarn and pull through.
16. Use the yarn tail to embroider one center vein from base to tip.

Joining the Main Doll

Before sewing permanently, pin every major part in place. The head should sit centered on the neck, slightly tilted forward for a gentle expression. The arms should angle downward at about 35 degrees from the shoulder. The legs should sit parallel and close together.

1. Place the body upright and mark the center front.
2. Pin the head to the neck opening, making sure the face is centered over the blue bib area.
3. Use the long body yarn tail to sew through the neck edge and lower head several times.
4. Pull firmly after every few stitches so the head does not wobble.
5. Pin the legs to the lower body, placing them 4 sts apart at the front center.
6. Sew each leg around the upper edge twice for strength.
7. Pin the arms to the sides, just below the shoulder line of the cardigan.
8. Sew through the inner top of each arm and into the body, keeping the arms symmetrical.
9. Add the tail at the back-left side, low enough to peek below the cardigan.
10. Try the cardigan and hood placement again before final hidden stitches are added.

Face Placement Guide

• Eyes: place between Rnds 25 and 26 of the head, about 11 sts apart.
• Nose: center between the eyes and lower face, about 6 rounds below the eye line.
• Mouth: embroider directly below the nose with a small vertical line and short V.
• Fur frame: sew around the face outside the eyes, not covering them.
• Hood edge: place just outside the fur frame so the cream border surrounds the face.

Detailed Clothing Fit

The clothing should look soft and handmade, not tight like a costume. The blue overalls need to sit smoothly under the cardigan. The cardigan fronts should fall open and slightly forward, creating two cream panels with striped details and patch embroidery.

When sewing clothing in place, use matching yarn and tiny stitches. Secure only key points: shoulders, underarms, side seams, waist, and hood back. Avoid sewing every edge down, because a little movement makes the toy look more natural and closer to the photographed handmade style.

Color Placement Reference

• Face and paws: warm tan.
• Furry frame and tail tip: reddish brown faux fur.
• Hood and cardigan base: soft cream.
• Cardigan stripes: muted medium blue.
• Overalls and pants: dusty blue.
• Boots: chestnut brown with beige soles.
• Pouch: cream with rust flower and green stem.
• Props: moss green leaves, brown acorns, cream hat, green ribbon.

Finishing the Hood Shape

After the hood is attached, use your fingers to shape the front edge into a rounded oval. The hood should frame the furry ring without hiding the eyes. If the hood slips backward, add two tiny hidden stitches at the lower cheek area, attaching the hood edge to the fur backing.

For a more rounded crown, lightly steam the hood without touching the iron to the yarn. Hold the hood in shape until it cools. Do not steam faux fur yarn directly, because heat may flatten the fibers.

Creating the Shaggy Look

The reddish-brown fur should appear uneven and soft around the face. After sewing, tease the fibers gently with a tapestry needle. Pull only the fuzzy strands outward, not the knitted base. The goal is a natural woodland frame with visible texture, especially around the forehead and cheeks.

• Use short movements to lift the fur around the forehead.
• Smooth the side fur downward beside the cheeks.
• Trim only very long strands that cover the eyes.
• Leave the lower chin fur slightly fuller for a cozy look.

Boot Detailing

The boots are small but visually important. They should look sturdy, rounded, and slightly oversized compared with the slim blue pant legs. Use firm stuffing in the toe area and sew the beige sole flat so each boot rests neatly on a table or shelf.

1. After attaching each sole, stitch one extra brown line around the sole edge to imitate a welt.
2. Use 6 short dark-brown stitches across the front of each boot for lace holes.
3. Thread brown embroidery floss through the lace holes in a crisscross pattern.
4. Tie a small bow, or embroider a bow if the cord is too thick.
5. Secure bow loops with tiny sewing thread stitches so they do not come undone.

Making the Toy Sit Neatly

The photographed plush sits with the legs straight downward and the torso upright. To achieve this, place more stuffing in the lower body than in the upper chest. Keep the hip area broad, then sew the legs onto the lower front at a slight outward angle.

After sewing the legs, press the body gently against a table. If the toy leans backward, add a few hidden stitches from the back of the pant waist to the back of the cardigan to tighten the posture. If it leans forward, loosen the head seam slightly and add stuffing behind the neck.

Optional Gnome-Inspired Woodland Accent

The title references a cottagecore hound with gnomes, while the visible image emphasizes woodland props. To keep the theme without overwhelming the main plush, you can add a tiny gnome-style charm beside the acorns or attach it to the pouch flap.

1. With red or rust yarn, CO 12 sts and work 6 rows in stockinette stitch.
2. Row 7: *k1, k2tog; rep from * across. You now have 8 sts.
3. Row 8: p all sts.
4. Row 9: k2tog across. You now have 4 sts.
5. Cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts.
6. Sew the side seam to form a tiny cone hat.
7. With beige yarn, make a 6-st bobble for a tiny face or nose.
8. Attach the cone and bobble near the acorns as a small woodland gnome accent.

Detailed Step-by-Step Assembly Order

1. Knit and stuff the head first, then add the safety eyes before closing.
2. Embroider the nose and mouth after the head is fully stuffed.
3. Knit the furry frame and sew it around the face.
4. Knit the ears and attach them partly under the fur frame.
5. Knit and stuff the body, keeping the lower body slightly wider.
6. Knit the legs and boots, then add soles and laces.
7. Knit the arms with tan paws and striped sleeves.
8. Sew the head to the body with several strong rounds of stitching.
9. Attach legs, arms, and tail to the body.
10. Knit the blue overalls and fit them over the lower body.
11. Knit the cardigan pieces, sleeves, and hood.
12. Assemble the cardigan and place it over the toy.
13. Sew the hood to the cardigan and shape it around the face.
14. Add patch embroidery to the cardigan fronts.
15. Knit the pouch, strap, hat, leaves, acorns, and optional tiny shoes.
16. Attach the pouch diagonally across the front.
17. Complete final face, fur, and clothing adjustments.

Tips for Beginners

Use removable stitch markers at the start of every round. Small knitted toys can become confusing because the rounds are short, especially around the paws, boots, and acorns. Counting carefully will make the final shaping much cleaner.

When switching colors for stripes, carry the unused yarn loosely up the inside of the sleeve or cardigan piece. Do not pull tightly, because tight floats will make the sleeve curl or shrink. Twist yarns once at each color change to prevent holes.

• Stuff gradually instead of pushing in one large clump.
• Use pins before sewing every part permanently.
• Keep embroidery simple and small for a handmade look.
• Use matching yarn tails for seams whenever possible.
• Check symmetry from the front after every major attachment.

Stuffing Guide

Stuffing controls the finished expression. The head should be the firmest part, because the eyes, nose, fur, and hood all depend on a stable round shape. The body should be firm at the base and medium at the chest. Arms should be soft enough to hang naturally.

• Head: firm, smooth, and round with no hollow spots.
• Body: firm lower base and medium upper chest.
• Legs: medium stuffing through blue pant area.
• Boots: firm toe stuffing for rounded shoe shape.
• Arms: firm paws and lightly stuffed sleeves.
• Pouch: tiny amount only, just enough to puff.
• Acorns: very light stuffing to avoid stretching.

Seaming Notes

Use mattress stitch for visible side seams and whipstitch for hidden clothing attachments. When sewing knitted fabric to stuffed parts, catch only a strand or two of the surface fabric so stitches do not create deep dents.

For the head-to-body join, use stronger stitches. Go through the lower head and upper body repeatedly, circling the neck opening at least twice. A strong neck join is important because the head is large and the hood adds extra weight.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face from straight ahead before finishing. The eyes should be level, the black nose should sit centered, and the mouth should be small and gentle. Brush the fur frame outward, then settle the cream hood around it so the face appears framed and cozy.

• Secure loose yarn tails inside the body or under clothing.
• Add one tiny white highlight stitch beside each black eye if desired.
• Shape the hood edge into an even oval around the face.
• Make sure the pouch strap crosses cleanly over the cardigan.
• Place acorns, leaves, hat, and tiny shoes beside the doll for display.

Care Notes

Spot clean only with cool water and a small amount of mild soap. Do not soak the finished toy, especially if you used faux fur yarn, safety eyes, or embroidery floss. Press with a towel and allow the toy to air dry completely.

• Do not machine wash.
• Do not tumble dry.
• Keep away from direct heat.
• Gently reshape the hood and boots while damp.
• Brush the fur frame only with fingers or a very soft brush.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, firm, and securely attached.
• The furry frame surrounds the face evenly without covering the eyes.
• The cream hood sits around the fur and creates a soft oval border.
• The cardigan fronts remain open and show the blue overall bib.
• The blue pants are smooth and centered under the cardigan.
• The boots are rounded, brown, and finished with soles and laces.
• The pouch hangs diagonally across the front-left side.
• The tiny fox and owl patches are embroidered on the cardigan fronts.
• The acorns, leaves, hat, and shoes are complete for the full display scene.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the knitted toy in a dry place away from strong sunlight. Sunlight can fade the blue overalls, cream hood, and brown fur over time. If displaying on a shelf, gently dust the toy with a soft cloth every few weeks.

For long-term storage, wrap the toy loosely in acid-free tissue or clean cotton fabric. Do not compress the hood, nose, or boots. Keep small props such as acorns, leaves, and shoes in a labeled cotton bag so they do not get lost.

• Refresh the shape by gently rolling the body between your hands.
• Smooth the cardigan fronts after handling.
• Retie or restitch the boot laces if they loosen.
• Check embroidered patches occasionally for loose threads.
• Keep away from pets, moisture, and rough play if made as a display piece.