Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny – Knitting

Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny – Knitting

Welcome to the elegant and nostalgic world of the Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny. This project captures the essence of a sophisticated morning at a vintage dressing table, where the sweet, heady scent of white tuberose blossoms fills the air. Our refined rabbit character is a lover of classic beauty and meticulous organization, dressed in an ensemble that mirrors the soft creams of garden blooms and the warm tans of antique leather vanity cases.

To ensure your finished bunny achieves the professional and high-quality finish seen in these designs, we highly recommend that you buy merino wool yarn in a soft oatmeal or cream shade. Selecting the best knitting supplies from a reputable yarn shop will help you create the intricate textures of the boxy cardigan and the floral embroidery. This character makes a wonderful handmade gift for collectors who appreciate fine details and the timeless art of purchasing high-quality needles for their craft.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Project Overview and Design Philosophy

The Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny stands approximately 14 inches (35 cm) tall. The design philosophy centers on a “Vintage Apothecary” aesthetic, combining soft, natural base tones with muted accent colors. The bunny is knitted in a warm oatmeal shade, providing a soft, natural base that feels like a cherished heirloom from a bygone era.

The construction uses a traditional flat-knitting method on two needles. This allows for precise control over the shaping of the bunny’s curves and the intricate stitch patterns of the clothing. Seaming these pieces together provides structural integrity, ensuring the bunny can sit or stand with support. This method is ideal for intermediate knitters who enjoy the assembly process.

Every detail in this project, from the oversized bow headband to the tiny Shiba Inu companion, is designed to create a rich, narrative-driven scene. The inclusion of miniature vanity items like a knitted lipstick and a hand mirror emphasizes her role as a character of grace. Consistency in your stitch tension is the key to achieving the professional finish.

Yarn and Essential Materials Checklist

  • Yarn A (Bunny Body): 100g DK weight yarn in Oatmeal, Sand, or Light Beige.
  • Yarn B (Tuberose Dress): 80g DK weight yarn in Antique Cream or Ivory.
  • Yarn C (Box Cardigan): 60g DK weight yarn in Camel, Tan, or Warm Toffee.
  • Yarn D (Statement Bow): 40g DK weight yarn in Dusty Rose or Terracotta Pink.
  • Yarn E (Floral Embroidery): Small amounts of White (for tuberoses) and Sage Green.
  • Yarn F (Companion Dog): 40g DK weight yarn in Cinnamon Brown.
  • Yarn G (Companion Clothes): Scraps of Charcoal Grey and Denim Blue.
  • Needles: US size 3 (3.25mm) straight knitting needles for the main components.
  • Detail Needles: US size 2 (2.75mm) for the miniature accessories.
  • Stuffing: High-loft polyester fiberfill for a firm and balanced feel.
  • Eyes: Two 9mm black safety eyes for the bunny; two small beads for the companion.
  • Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, embroidery floss, and a small mirror insert.

Gauge and Technical Tension Guidelines

For this specific doll, the target gauge should be 24 stitches and 30 rows over a 4-inch (10 cm) square in stockinette stitch. Maintaining a firm tension is vital when knitting stuffed toys. If the fabric is too loose, the white fiberfill will show through the stitches, which detracts from the professional look.

If you find that your knitting style is naturally loose, we strongly suggest moving down a needle size. Conversely, if your fabric is stiff and difficult to manipulate, move up a size. Testing your gauge before beginning the legs will ensure that all the tailored clothing, especially the fitted cardigan, fits perfectly.

Consistency is your best friend during this project. When making the two legs or the two arms, try to knit them in the same sitting if possible. This helps maintain the same hand tension, ensuring that the limbs are identical in length and width, allowing the bunny to stand or sit symmetrically.

Common Abbreviations (US Standard)

  • K: Knit
  • P: Purl
  • Sts: Stitches
  • Inc: Increase (KFB – Knit into the front and then the back of the same stitch).
  • Dec: Decrease (K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together).
  • SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit (a left-leaning decrease for shaping).
  • YO: Yarn Over (used for the eyelet hem of the dress).
  • RS: Right Side (the public side of the fabric).
  • WS: Wrong Side (the side that will be inside the toy).
  • St st: Stockinette Stitch (Knit on RS rows, Purl on WS rows).

Part 1: The Bunny Body Foundation

We begin the construction by knitting the legs individually. These will later be joined at the center to form the lower torso. This bottom-up method provides the necessary stability for the weight of the bunny and ensures a smooth, continuous fabric from the hips up to the neck area.

Knitting the Legs (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Oatmeal) and your US 3 needles, cast on 12 stitches. Leave a long tail of yarn at the start. This tail will be used for sewing the foot pads during the assembly phase. We will use the mattress stitch for all seams to keep the finish nearly invisible.

  • Row 1 (WS): Purl across all stitches to set the foundation.
  • Row 2 (RS): Increase in every stitch across the row. (24 sts). This forms the base of the foot.
  • Row 3: Purl all stitches evenly, maintaining your firm hand tension.
  • Row 4: *K1, Inc*, repeat from * to end of row. (36 sts). This rounds the foot.
  • Rows 5-9: Work in stockinette stitch, starting with a Purl row on the WS.
  • Row 10 (Shape Instep): K12, (K2tog) 6 times, K12. (30 sts). This forms the front curve.
  • Row 11: Purl all stitches across the row.
  • Row 12: K9, (K2tog) 6 times, K9. (24 sts). The ankle is now beginning to form.
  • Row 13: Purl all stitches. Keep the tension tight to avoid gaps at the decreases.
  • Row 14: K8, (K2tog) 4 times, K8. (20 sts). This defines the leg shape clearly.
  • Rows 15-42: Work straight in stockinette stitch. Measure frequently to ensure both legs are identical.

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Once you reach row 42 on the first leg, break the yarn and place the 20 stitches on a holder. Complete the second leg in the exact same manner, but do not break the yarn. We will use the working yarn from the second leg to join the pieces.

Joining the Torso

With the RS of the second leg facing you, cast on 2 stitches for the crotch area, then knit across the 20 stitches of the first leg from the stitch holder. You should now have 42 stitches on your needle. Handle the join carefully to prevent large gaps from forming.

  • Row 44 (WS): Purl all stitches, including the two new cast-on stitches at the center.
  • Row 45: K10, Inc, K20, Inc, K10. (44 sts). This adds volume to the bunny’s hips.
  • Row 46: Purl all stitches evenly across the entire row.
  • Row 47: K11, Inc, K20, Inc, K11. (46 sts). This completes the hip shaping.
  • Rows 48-68: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This long section forms the bunny’s tummy area.
  • Row 69: *K8, K2tog*, repeat to last 6 sts, K6. (42 sts). Starting the chest taper.
  • Row 70: Purl all stitches. Maintain your focus on the consistent stitch count.
  • Row 71: *K5, K2tog*, repeat to end of row. (36 sts). The chest is narrowing.
  • Rows 72-76: Work straight in stockinette stitch to provide height to the upper torso.
  • Row 77: *K4, K2tog*, repeat to end. (30 sts). Almost at the neck.
  • Row 78: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 79: *K3, K2tog*, repeat to end. (24 sts). Final torso shaping.
  • Row 80: Purl across. This row represents the neck line where the head begins.

Part 2: The Bunny Head and Expressive Features

The head is worked as a direct continuation of the neck. It is vital to stuff the neck column extremely firmly during assembly so that the head remains upright. The head is shaped with rapid increases to create the chubby, endearing cheeks that define our bunny’s personality.

  • Row 81 (RS): *K1, Inc*, repeat to the end of the row. (36 sts).
  • Row 82: Purl all stitches across the row.
  • Row 83: *K2, Inc*, repeat to the end of the row. (48 sts).
  • Row 84: Purl all stitches. The fabric is expanding for the face.
  • Row 85: *K7, Inc*, repeat to end. (54 sts). The cheeks are now fully established.
  • Rows 86-106: Work straight in stockinette stitch. This provides the height for safety eye placement.
  • Row 107: *K7, K2tog*, repeat to end. (48 sts). Starting the top of the head.
  • Row 108: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 109: *K6, K2tog*, repeat to end. (42 sts).
  • Row 110: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 111: *K5, K2tog*, repeat to end. (36 sts).
  • Row 112: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 113: *K4, K2tog*, repeat to end. (30 sts).
  • Row 114: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 115: *K3, K2tog*, repeat to end. (24 sts).
  • Row 116: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 117: *K1, K2tog*, repeat to end. (16 sts).
  • Row 118: K2tog across the entire row. (8 sts).

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for finishing. Use a tapestry needle to thread the tail through the remaining 8 stitches and pull tight to close the crown of the head. Secure the end firmly and hide the tail inside the head structure.

The Gentle Arms (Make 2)

Using Yarn A (Oatmeal), cast on 10 stitches. The arms are designed to be soft and flexible so they can hold the tuberose bouquet or the hand mirror. Ensure your tension matches the legs perfectly to maintain a professional look throughout the assembly process.

  • Row 1: Purl all stitches across the row.
  • Row 2: Increase in every stitch across the row. (20 sts).
  • Rows 3-26: Work in stockinette stitch. Measure frequently to ensure both arms are identical.
  • Row 27: *K2, K2tog*, repeat across the row. (15 sts). Shaping the upper shoulder.
  • Row 28: Purl across all stitches.
  • Row 29: K2tog across the row to the last stitch, Knit 1. (8 sts).

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Sew the side seam and stuff the lower half firmly. Leave the upper shoulder area lightly stuffed to allow the arm to hang naturally by the bunny’s side, creating a relaxed and inviting parlor posture.

The Long Floppy Ears (Make 2)

The ears are a large and iconic part of this design. They are worked flat and then folded slightly at the base during attachment. Using Yarn A, cast on 14 stitches. These should be knitted with a relaxed but consistent tension to allow natural drape.

  • Rows 1-42: Work in stockinette stitch. These are long, so keep your edges neat.
  • Row 43: SSK, K10, K2tog. (12 sts). Starting the rounded tip.
  • Row 44: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 45: SSK, K8, K2tog. (10 sts).
  • Row 46: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 47: SSK, K6, K2tog. (8 sts).
  • Row 48: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 49: SSK, K4, K2tog. (6 sts).
  • Row 50: Purl all stitches.
  • Row 51: SSK, K2, K2tog. (4 sts).
  • Row 52: K2tog twice. (2 sts).

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Fasten off and draw the yarn through the final stitches. Sew the long edges together using a ladder stitch. Do not stuff the ears; they need to remain soft and flat to look authentic. Set these aside for the final assembly phase later.

Part 3: The Tuberose Wardrobe

The wardrobe for this bunny is a study in monochromatic texture and delicate hand-embroidery. We will create a cream dress with an embroidered tuberose spire, a boxy tan cardigan with floral cuffs, and a statement headband with an oversized bow. These layers provide depth and luxury.

The Antique Cream Dress

Using Yarn B (Cream), cast on 72 stitches. The dress features a flared skirt with a decorative eyelet hem. This piece serves as the canvas for the large tuberose embroidery that climbs up the bunny’s right side, creating a striking focal point for the character’s outfit.

  • Rows 1-4: Knit every row (Garter Stitch) to create a flat hem.
  • Row 5 (RS): *K2, YO, K2tog*, repeat across to end. This creates a delicate eyelet row.
  • Row 6: Purl all stitches.
  • Rows 7-34: Work in stockinette stitch. The fabric should be smooth to allow for embroidery.
  • Waist Row: *K2, K2tog*, repeat across. (54 sts). This creates the gathered waist.
  • Rows 35-42: Work in stockinette stitch for the bodice.
  • Row 43: K8, cast off 4 sts (armhole), K26, cast off 4 sts, K8.
  • Row 44: P8, cast on 4 sts, P26, cast on 4 sts, P8. (54 sts).
  • Row 50: Cast off loosely.

Dress Embroidery: Once the dress is seamed at the back, use Yarn E (White and Sage) to embroider a tuberose spire. Stitch a tall green stem using a split stitch. Add small white clusters of French knots or bullion knots at the top to represent the tubular flowers of the tuberose.

The Boxy Camel Cardigan

The cardigan is knitted in Yarn C (Camel) and features a cropped, boxy silhouette. This style provides a modern yet vintage feel. The highlights of this piece are the white floral clusters embroidered on the cuffs, which mirror the tuberose theme of the entire set.

  • Back Panel: Cast on 28 stitches. Work 15 rows in stockinette stitch. Cast off.
  • Front Panels (Make 2): Cast on 14 stitches. Work 15 rows in stockinette.
  • Neckline: For the front panels, decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on every RS row for the last 4 rows.
  • Sleeves (Make 2): Cast on 16 stitches. Work 12 rows. On the cuffs (first 3 rows), work a K1, P1 ribbing.
  • Finishing: Sew the shoulder and side seams. Attach the sleeves. Embroider tiny white flower buds on the cuffs using Yarn E. The cardigan is designed to be worn open.

The Statement Bow Headband

This is the bunny’s most iconic accessory. Using Yarn D (Dusty Rose), we will create a wide headband and a massive, structural bow. This piece adds a splash of color and whimsy to the overall ensemble, perfectly framing the bunny’s face and floppy ears.

  • Headband: Cast on 12 stitches. Work in Garter Stitch for 10 inches. Sew ends together.
  • The Bow: Cast on 20 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch for 40 rows. Cast off.
  • Assembly: Fold the bow rectangle into a loop and sew the ends. Wrap a small strip of yarn tightly around the center to create the pinch.
  • Attachment: Sew the bow firmly to the center of the headband. Ensure the bow is stiff enough to hold its shape; you may add a small piece of felt inside if needed.

Part 4: The Vanity Accessories and Companion

The accessories add a layer of storytelling to the project. We will create the two-tone Mary Janes, the floral vanity case, the miniature mirror and lipstick, and the loyal Shiba Inu friend who travels with the bunny on her morning beauty routine.

Two-Tone Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are knitted in Yarn F (Tan) and Yarn E (Brown). This two-tone look mimics traditional leather footwear. They feature a strap across the instep and a rounded toe cap, providing a sturdy foundation for the bunny’s standing pose.

  • Sole: Cast on 10 sts with Brown. Knit 10 rows. Pick up 28 sts around the edge.
  • Upper: Work 4 rows in stockinette using Tan.
  • Row 5 (Toe): K8, (K2tog) 6 times, K16. (22 sts). This shapes the front.
  • Row 6: Purl across. Change to Brown for the strap.
  • Strap: Cast on 12 sts separately. Knit 2 rows and cast off. Sew to one side of the shoe.

The Knitted Vanity Case

The vanity case is a small rectangular box made with Yarn D (Rose) and Yarn B (Cream). It features a “Fair Isle” or colorwork pattern to simulate a floral fabric print. This case is the heart of the theme and sits proudly next to the bunny.

  • Case Panels: Knit two squares (12×12 sts) for the front/back and two rectangles (12×6 sts) for the sides.
  • Colorwork: Work a simple repeating flower pattern (K1 Cream, K1 Rose) on the panels.
  • Assembly: Sew the panels together into a box shape. Stuff with a firm piece of sponge or extra fiberfill to keep the edges sharp. Add a tiny button for the latch.

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Mirror and Lipstick Props

These tiny details bring the vanity theme to life. Use your US 2 needles and Yarn F/Yarn D scraps. These are small projects that require patience but add immense value to the narrative of the finished character display.

  • Mirror: Knit two circles in Tan. Insert a small craft mirror or a piece of silver foil between them. Sew the edges together and add a short I-cord handle.
  • Lipstick: Knit a tiny black tube (8 rows). Change to bright Red and knit 4 rows. Draw through and pull tight. Stuff lightly to form the lipstick shape.

The Shiba Inu Companion

Our bunny’s friend is a tiny cinnamon Shiba Inu. He wears a charcoal sweater and a blue beanie hat. This detail transforms the set into a complete storytelling scene. The dog is worked similarly to the bunny but at a much smaller scale.

  • Body: Cast on 8 stitches. Increase to 16. Knit 10 rows. Decrease to 8. Draw through.
  • Head: Pick up 8 stitches at the neck. Increase to 12. Knit 6 rows. Decrease and close.
  • Ears: Knit two tiny triangles and sew to the top of the head.
  • Clothes: Knit a charcoal rectangle for the sweater. Knit a tiny blue circle with a pom-pom for the hat. Sew bead eyes and embroider a small black nose.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

The assembly is the most important step in giving your character its personality. Take your time to align the features symmetrically and ensure all seaming is tight and neat. A well-assembled doll is the difference between a project and an heirloom.

  1. Body Seaming: Use a ladder stitch to sew the legs and torso. Stuff the legs firmly to allow for a sturdy sitting pose. The tummy should be rounded and soft. Ensure the neck is reinforced with extra stuffing to support the head.
  2. Face Placement:
    • Insert the 9mm safety eyes between rows 90 and 91, approximately 9 stitches apart.
    • Embroider the nose using Yarn F (Tan) or a dark brown floss. Create a small “Y” shape for the classic bunny mouth.
    • (Optional) Add a touch of pink cosmetic blush to the cheeks for a healthy, morning glow.
  3. Limbs and Ears: Sew the arms just below the neck line. Fold the base of the ears and sew them to the top of the head so they flop naturally to the sides, framing the statement bow.
  4. Dressing: Put on the cream dress first. Secure the cardigan over the top. Place the headband on the head. Secure the Mary Janes onto the paws. Arrange the dog and vanity props.

Care Notes for Your Heirloom Bunny

Your Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny is a delicate piece of artisan craft. Because of the intricate floral embroidery and the small accessory pieces, it is not intended for rough play. It is best suited as a decorative item for a nursery, vanity, or collector’s shelf.

Over time, high-quality wool can develop a slight fuzz or “pilling.” This is a natural characteristic of the fiber. You can gently remove any pilling using a small pair of embroidery scissors to keep the bunny looking fresh and new. Always keep the doll in a dry environment to preserve the stuffing.

If the bunny is meant for a young child, please ensure all safety eyes are locked securely and that the tiny accessories (like the lipstick or mirror) are double-stitched to the bunny or the vanity case to prevent them from becoming a choking hazard. Character safety is always the priority.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Are the safety eyes locked securely in place and level with each other?
  • Is the neck stuffed firmly enough to keep the head upright and straight?
  • Are all loose yarn ends woven in and hidden deep within the bunny stuffing?
  • Does the bunny sit evenly without tipping over to the side or forward?
  • Is the companion dog’s tail securely attached to its charcoal sweater?
  • Are the embroidered tuberoses on the dress and cardigan cuffs symmetrical?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Handmade knitted toys should never be placed in a washing machine. The high agitation will cause the natural wool to felt and the intricate embroidery to unravel or distort. If the bunny becomes dusty, a gentle once-over with a soft-bristled brush or a lint roller is usually sufficient for cleaning.

If a deeper clean is required for a specific stain, use a damp cloth with a very small amount of mild wool detergent. Dab the area gently; do not rub, as rubbing will pilling the yarn and blur the stitch definition. Allow the bunny to air dry completely away from direct sunlight or high-heat sources like radiators.

To preserve the soft colors of the yarns, avoid displaying the bunny in a window with high UV exposure, as sunlight can fade the dyes over time. For long-term storage, place the bunny in a breathable cotton bag with a cedar block or lavender sachet to keep moisture and moths away from the natural fibers.

Congratulations on completing your Tuberose Vanity-Case Bunny. This project is a celebration of the quiet joy found in morning rituals and the timeless beauty of the garden. Whether she sits on your mantle or becomes a treasured gift, she is sure to bring a sense of nostalgic peace to her new home.

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