This heirloom-style bunny is dressed for a meadow stroll in a milkmaid bonnet, a cropped little cardigan, and a soft A-line dress with delicate eyelet “lace” details. If you love making giftable toys, this is a wonderful project to pair with quality DK yarn, sharp double-pointed needles, and a smooth tapestry needle for neat finishing. You’ll also use safety eyes, polyfill stuffing, and a few shades of embroidery floss to create the ranunculus bouquet embroidery that makes the skirt feel extra special.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Finished Measurements
Main bunny: approximately 12–13 in (30–33 cm) tall from feet to top of bonnet, depending on yarn and stuffing density.
Mouse friend: approximately 4–5 in (10–13 cm) tall.
Basket: approximately 3 in (7.5 cm) wide.
Shawl: approximately 6 x 6 in (15 x 15 cm) square, folded as shown.
Ranunculus bouquet: approximately 4 in (10 cm) long.
Yarn and Notions
- Main bunny yarn (A): light taupe or oatmeal DK (body, head, limbs, ears).
- Outfit yarn (B): warm cream DK (dress, cardigan, bonnet, shawl).
- Mouse yarn (C): light gray DK (mouse body/overalls) and cream DK (mouse hood/cape).
- Basket yarn (D): pale beige DK (basket base) and soft blush DK (petal top).
- Green yarn (E): fingering or embroidery-weight green (stems/leaves, bouquet wraps).
- Embroidery floss: deep pink, rosy pink, pale pink, buttery yellow, olive green.
- Needles: US 2 (2.75 mm) and US 3 (3.25 mm) in DPNs or magic loop.
- Safety eyes: 8 mm black (bunny), 4–5 mm black (mouse) or embroidered eyes.
- Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
- Other notions: stitch markers, waste yarn, scissors, tapestry needle, straight pins.
- Optional structure: thin craft wire for bouquet stems; small piece of felt for shoe soles.
Gauge
Stockinette in the round with US 2 (2.75 mm): 28 sts x 40 rnds = 4 in (10 cm).
Gauge is not critical, but fabric must be dense so stuffing does not show through.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- RS/WS = right side/wrong side
- kfb = knit front and back (increase 1)
- m1L/m1R = make 1 left/right (increase 1)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (decrease 1)
- k2tog = knit 2 together (decrease 1)
- sl = slip stitch purlwise
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- BO = bind off
- CO = cast on
Helpful Techniques
- Invisible decrease: for a smoother toy surface, work ssk carefully and keep tension even.
- Ladder control: if using DPNs, shift the start of round occasionally to avoid gaps.
- Embroidery on knitting: use duplicate stitch and simple satin stitches for flowers.
- Pick up and knit: used for clean edges on cardigan and bonnet.
General Notes
All toy parts are worked in the round unless stated otherwise. Use a smaller needle than you would for garments so the fabric stays firm. Stuff as you go, using small pinches of fiberfill, and shape frequently with your fingers.
For the outfit, the look in the photo is smooth and softly drapey. Keep the dress and cardigan lightly blocked with steam (do not press hard) before dressing the bunny so edges sit flat.
Main Bunny
Head and Body (one piece, top-down)
With yarn A and US 2 (2.75 mm), CO 6 sts. Distribute on DPNs or magic loop. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the start of rnd.
Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
Rnd 2: k around.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (18).
Rnd 4: k around.
Rnd 5: (k2, kfb) around (24).
Rnd 6: k around.
Rnd 7: (k3, kfb) around (30).
Rnd 8: k around.
Rnd 9: (k4, kfb) around (36).
Rnd 10: k around.
Rnd 11: (k5, kfb) around (42).
Rnd 12: k around.
Work even in stockinette for 12 rnds (Rnds 13–24). This forms the upper head dome. Keep your tension consistent so the face stays smooth and rounded.
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Place safety eyes: Insert 8 mm eyes between Rnds 18 and 19, about 10–11 sts apart. Do not attach washers yet if you prefer to adjust after shaping. Use a small strand of waste yarn to mark the center front line.
Shape cheeks slightly: work 2 rnds even. Then on the next rnd, increase subtly at sides to widen the muzzle zone.
Rnd 27: k10, m1R, k11, m1L, k10 (44).
Rnd 28: k around.
Rnd 29: k around.
Begin neck shaping by decreasing evenly to tighten below the head. Stuff the head firmly now, shaping the muzzle forward with your fingers as you add stuffing.
Rnd 30: (k9, k2tog) around (40).
Rnd 31: k around.
Rnd 32: (k8, k2tog) around (36).
Rnd 33: k around.
Rnd 34: (k7, k2tog) around (32).
Rnd 35: k around.
Work 6 rnds even (Rnds 36–41). This is the neck. Keep stuffing firm in the head but lighter in the neck so it can sit naturally under the bonnet tie.
Increase to form shoulders and upper torso.
Rnd 42: (k7, kfb) around (36).
Rnd 43: k around.
Rnd 44: (k8, kfb) around (40).
Rnd 45: k around.
Rnd 46: (k9, kfb) around (44).
Rnd 47: k around.
Work 10 rnds even (Rnds 48–57). This forms the chest area under the cardigan. Add stuffing gradually, keeping the torso firm but not rock hard so the dress can slide on.
Shape belly with gentle increases, then work straight for length.
Rnd 58: k11, m1R, k21, m1L, k10 (46).
Rnd 59: k around.
Rnd 60: k around.
Work 14 rnds even (Rnds 61–74). Stuff as you go, keeping the back slightly flatter than the front so the bunny stands steadily.
Begin lower torso taper where legs will attach. Decrease modestly so the dress falls in a soft A-line over the shape.
Rnd 75: (k21, k2tog) twice (44).
Rnd 76: k around.
Rnd 77: (k20, k2tog) twice (42).
Rnd 78: k around.
BO loosely, leaving a long tail for closing and shaping. Do not close the bottom yet. You will close after legs are attached, or you can close now and sew legs on top. For the most stable stance, attach legs first, then close any remaining gap.
Facial Embroidery (nose and mouth)
Using dark taupe embroidery floss (or a strand of yarn A split), stitch a small inverted “Y” on the lower center of the face, matching the photo. Keep it delicate and slightly rounded, not sharp.
Make the nose point end at about Rnd 22–23, then split into two short mouth lines that angle gently outward. Pull snug, but do not pucker the knitted fabric. Knot securely inside the head.
Long Droopy Ears (make 2)
With yarn A and US 2, CO 12 sts. Work back and forth in stockinette for a smooth ear with a slightly rolled edge, just like the photo’s soft knit texture.
Row 1 (RS): k.
Row 2 (WS): p.
Repeat Rows 1–2 for 34 rows total.
Shape the ear tip slightly rounded.
Next RS row: k1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1 (10).
WS: p across.
Next RS: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1 (8).
WS: p across.
BO. Fold the ear in half lengthwise (WS together) for just 1 in (2.5 cm) at the top only, creating a gentle “scoop” that helps it hang. Sew that top fold with small stitches, leaving the rest unseamed so it stays flat and drapey.
Arms and Hands (make 2)
With yarn A and US 2, CO 6 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
Rnd 2: k around.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (18).
Rnd 4–8: k around.
Shape wrist slightly, then form forearm length. Stuff the hand area firmly, but keep the upper arm lightly stuffed so it can rest against the cardigan like in the photo.
Rnd 9: (k4, k2tog) around (15).
Rnd 10–22: k around.
Rnd 23: (k3, k2tog) around (12).
Rnd 24–28: k around.
BO leaving a long tail for attaching at the shoulder seam line. Flatten the top slightly before sewing so the arms sit neatly under the cardigan sleeves.
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Legs (make 2)
The bunny in the photo stands with straight legs and rounded feet, wearing strap shoes. These legs are shaped with a soft toe and a flat-ish sole for stability.
With yarn A and US 2, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1: kfb around (16).
Rnd 2: k around.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (24).
Rnd 4: k around.
Form the foot length.
Rnd 5–12: k around.
Rnd 13: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
Rnd 14: k around.
Rnd 15: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
Stuff the toe and foot firmly. If you want extra stability, add a small oval of felt or a few flat glass pellets wrapped in fabric at the very bottom before closing the foot area.
Work the ankle and leg shaft.
Rnd 16–36: k around (12).
Rnd 37: (k4, kfb) three times (15).
Rnd 38–44: k around (15).
BO leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the leg, then pinch the top opening slightly oval. This helps the leg sit flush against the body base.
Tail (small pom tail)
With yarn A, CO 6 sts, join in the round.
Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
Rnd 2–6: k around.
Rnd 7: (k2, k2tog) around (9).
Rnd 8: k around.
Stuff lightly. Rnd 9: (k1, k2tog) around (6). Draw tight and close. Leave a tail for sewing centered on the back, just above where the dress waist will sit.
Milkmaid Dress (Cream)
Dress Bodice (top-down, worked flat then joined)
The dress in the photo has a simple square neckline, a fitted bodice, and a gathered skirt. The waist is accented with an eyelet “lace” band. We’ll build the bodice, add sleeves, then pick up for the skirt.
With yarn B and US 2, CO 48 sts. Work flat for the front and back yoke, creating a gentle square neck opening.
Row 1 (RS): k2, p2, k44 (this gives a tiny rib edge at the top corners).
Row 2 (WS): p44, k2, p2 (mirror the rib edge).
Rows 3–10: work stockinette with the first 2 sts and last 2 sts in garter (k on every row) for a tidy edge. This keeps the neckline and back opening from curling.
Divide for armholes and back slit. On the next RS row, work 22 sts, BO 4 sts (armhole gap), work 22 sts. You now have two sections separated by a gap. Continue each side separately for 6 rows, maintaining garter edges.
Rejoin for the back opening by CO 4 sts over the gap on a RS row, and continue working across all sts again. This creates the armhole spacing while keeping the piece unified.
Work 10 more rows in stockinette with garter edges. Then, shape slightly for a snug bodice: on every RS row, decrease 1 st at each side within the garter edge, 4 times total.
At this point, try the bodice wrap around the bunny. It should sit close but not tight, with the opening at the back. If your bunny is chubbier, reduce the number of decreases by one round.
Join Bodice Sides
Fold bodice with RS facing out and seam the side edges up to the armhole point using mattress stitch. Leave the back opening unseamed so the dress can be dressed easily.
Eyelet Waist Band
With RS facing, pick up and knit 64 sts evenly around the bottom edge of the bodice (adjust count as needed for even spacing). Join to work in the round.
Rnd 1: k around.
Rnd 2 (eyelet): (k2tog, yo, k6) around. Adjust the final repeat to end neatly.
Rnd 3: k around, knitting all yarnovers as knit sts.
Rnd 4: p around (this creates a crisp turning line under the eyelets).
Rnd 5: k around.
Skirt (A-line)
Increase for gentle flare, then work straight for length like the photo’s softly flared skirt.
Rnd 6: (k8, m1R) around (increase about 8 sts).
Rnd 7–10: k around.
Rnd 11: (k10, m1R) around (increase about 6 sts).
Rnd 12–26: k around.
Create a subtle hem that lies flat. Work 4 rnds in garter-in-the-round by alternating a knit round and a purl round.
Rnd 27: p around.
Rnd 28: k around.
Rnd 29: p around.
Rnd 30: k around.
BO loosely. Block the skirt gently so it hangs smoothly, then add the ranunculus embroidery before putting the dress on the bunny for best control.
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Sleeves with Eyelet “Lace” Cuffs (make 2)
With yarn B and US 2, pick up and knit 28 sts around one armhole. Join to work in the round.
Rnd 1–8: k around.
Rnd 9 (eyelet lace): (k2tog, yo, k4) around.
Rnd 10: k around.
Rnd 11: p around.
Rnd 12–14: k around.
BO loosely. Repeat for second sleeve. The eyelet band should sit near the lower sleeve, echoing the photo’s delicate lace trim.
Cardigan (Cropped, Cream)
Back (worked flat)
With yarn B and US 2, CO 44 sts. Work 6 rows of k1, p1 rib. This creates the neat lower band seen in the photo.
Work in stockinette with 2 garter edge sts on each side for 26 rows. Keep the cardigan short so it ends above the dress waist eyelet band.
Shape armholes: BO 3 sts at the start of the next 2 rows. Then decrease 1 st each side every RS row 3 times. Work even until the back measures about 4 in (10 cm) from rib to shoulder.
Shoulders: BO 10 sts at the start of the next 2 RS rows. BO remaining center sts for neck. Leave long tails for seaming.
Fronts (make 2)
With yarn B, CO 22 sts. Work 6 rows of k1, p1 rib. Then work stockinette with 2 garter edge sts on the front opening edge and 1 garter edge st at the side seam edge.
Work 20 rows. Shape armhole to match back: BO 3 sts at side seam edge once, then decrease 1 st at side seam edge every RS row 3 times.
Neck shaping: at the front opening edge, decrease 1 st every RS row 6 times. Work even until shoulder height matches back. BO shoulder sts.
Seam and Edge Band
Seam shoulders, then side seams, leaving a comfortable armhole opening. With RS facing, pick up and knit along the entire front opening and neck edge using yarn B.
Work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib, keeping the band snug but not tight. BO in rib. This creates the crisp trim seen around the cardigan opening in the photo.
Cardigan Sleeves (make 2)
Pick up and knit 28 sts around each armhole. Join. Work 16 rnds even. Add an eyelet band near the cuff to echo the dress sleeve trim.
Rnd 17 (eyelet): (k2tog, yo, k4) around.
Rnd 18: k around.
Rnd 19: p around.
Rnd 20–22: k around.
BO loosely.
Bonnet (Cream, Scalloped Face Edge)
Main Bonnet
The bonnet in the photo sits forward on the head with a rounded cap and a scalloped face edge. We’ll knit a cap, then add a decorative edge and ties.
With yarn B and US 2, CO 60 sts. Work flat in k1, p1 rib for 10 rows. This rib frames the face and helps the bonnet hug the head.
Switch to stockinette with 2 garter sts at each edge for 22 rows. Then shape the back of the bonnet with decreases to create a rounded cap.
Decrease row (RS): k2, (k8, k2tog) across to last 2 sts, k2.
WS: p across, keeping edge sts in garter.
Repeat these two rows 6 times total.
Now you should have a narrower top. Fold bonnet in half and seam the back top edge using mattress stitch, creating the cap shape. Leave the lower back open to form the nape area.
Scalloped Face Edge
With RS facing and yarn B, pick up and knit 80 sts evenly around the face opening. Work 2 rows in garter (k every row) to stabilize.
Create small scallops using a simple gathered edge. Next row: *k2tog, yo, k2* repeat around. Following row: knit, letting the yarnovers add softness.
Work one more garter row. BO loosely. The eyelet row will create the subtle waved edge seen in the photo’s bonnet trim.
Bonnet Ties
Make two i-cords or knitted ties. For each tie, with yarn B, CO 3 sts. Work i-cord for 10–12 in (25–30 cm). BO and leave tails.
Sew ties to the lower corners of the bonnet face opening. Tie in a small bow under the bunny’s chin, as shown in the photo.
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Shoes (Beige Mary Janes with Side Bows)
Shoe Base (make 2)
With yarn A and US 2, CO 10 sts. Work flat in garter stitch (k every row) for 16 rows to create a flexible sole.
Pick up and knit around the sole edge (approximately 42 sts). Join to work in the round. Work 2 rnds knit to build the shoe wall.
Shape the toe by decreasing at the front. Place a marker at the center front.
Rnd 1: k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k to end.
Rnd 2: k around.
Repeat Rnds 1–2 four times.
Work 4 rnds even. BO leaving a tail. Lightly stuff just the toe so it holds shape, but do not overstuff. Slip the shoe onto the bunny foot and adjust the toe curve before sewing the back seam closed.
Strap and Bow
For each shoe, pick up 8 sts on the inner side edge and knit a small strap 10 rows in garter. BO and sew to the opposite side, forming a strap across the top of the foot.
Make a tiny bow: CO 8 sts, knit 6 rows garter, BO. Wrap center tightly with yarn, then sew the bow to the outer side of the shoe, matching the photo’s sweet side bows.
Ranunculus Embroidery on the Skirt
The skirt in the photo features two large ranunculus blooms with yellow centers and pink outer rings, plus green stems, leaves, and a small bud. Embroider before dressing the bunny for best tension control.
Place the dress flat. Lightly mark the flower positions on the lower right front of the skirt. One bloom sits slightly higher; the second bloom is lower and to the left. The stems rise from the hem area toward the flowers.
Centers: Using buttery yellow floss, make a small tight spiral with backstitch, about the size of a pea. Add a second ring around it in pale yellow using short satin stitches, keeping the circle neat.
Petals: Using rosy pink, stitch a ring of curved satin stitches around the center, pointing outward. Add another ring with deep pink, making the outer edge slightly uneven so it looks like layered petals.
Depth: Add a few duplicate-stitch loops in pale pink between rings to give a “ruffled” ranunculus look. Keep stitches short and follow the knitted V’s so the flowers look integrated, not bulky.
Stems and leaves: Using olive green, stitch slender stems with backstitch. Add small pointed leaves using a fishbone stitch or simple satin stitches, angling leaves outward as in the photo.
Bud: Stitch a small oval bud in pale pink with a tiny yellow hint at the center. Add a short stem and two small leaves beneath it. Secure all ends inside the skirt fabric with tight knots.
Mouse Friend (Small Companion Doll)
Mouse Head
With cream yarn (use yarn B or C-cream) and US 2, CO 6 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
Rnd 2: k around.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (18).
Rnd 4: k around.
Rnd 5: (k2, kfb) around (24).
Rnd 6–12: k around.
Place small safety eyes (4–5 mm) between Rnds 9 and 10, about 6 sts apart. Stuff head firmly. Begin decreases.
Rnd 13: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
Rnd 14: k around.
Rnd 15: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
Rnd 16: (k2tog) around (6). Close and leave tail.
Mouse Ears (make 2)
With gray yarn C and US 2, CO 6 sts. Join.
Rnd 1: kfb around (12).
Rnd 2: k around.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) around (18).
Rnd 4: k around.
BO. Flatten into a semicircle and sew to the top sides of the head.
Mouse Body and Overalls (one piece)
With gray yarn C and US 2, CO 6 sts. Join.
Rnd 1: kfb (12).
Rnd 2: k.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) (18).
Rnd 4: k.
Rnd 5: (k2, kfb) (24).
Rnd 6–10: k.
Shape torso: work 10 rnds even. Stuff lightly. The mouse in the photo looks softly filled, not stiff. Add a tiny pinch of stuffing in the belly, leaving the shoulders a bit softer for a cuddly feel.
Make a bib front for overalls: work 10 sts flat for 10 rows in stockinette, then resume in the round. Add two thin straps later with i-cords or crocheted chains.
Finish body: decrease slightly to taper toward neck.
Next rnd: (k2, k2tog) around (18).
Next rnd: k.
Next rnd: (k1, k2tog) around (12).
Work 4 rnds even, then BO leaving a tail for sewing head on.
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Mouse Arms (make 2)
With cream yarn and US 2, CO 4 sts, join.
Rnd 1: kfb (8).
Rnd 2–10: k.
Stuff lightly, BO and leave tail.
Mouse Hood with Pom (Cream)
With cream yarn and US 2, CO 28 sts. Work flat in garter for 4 rows. Continue in stockinette for 18 rows, keeping 2 garter edge sts on each side.
Fold into a hood shape and seam the back. Pick up and knit around the face opening and work 4 rows garter. BO. Add a tiny pom at the crown using a small wrap of yarn, matching the photo’s soft, cozy hood look.
Mouse Capelet (Cream)
With cream yarn, CO 32 sts. Work 6 rows garter. Increase 1 st at each end on the next RS row. Work 6 more rows garter. BO.
Sew capelet around the mouse shoulders so it sits like a little jacket. Add tiny front ties if desired, but keep it minimal so the mouse silhouette stays clean.
Flower Basket (Blush Petal Basket)
Basket Base
With beige yarn D and US 2, CO 6 sts, join.
Rnd 1: kfb (12).
Rnd 2: k.
Rnd 3: (k1, kfb) (18).
Rnd 4: k.
Rnd 5: (k2, kfb) (24).
Rnd 6: k.
Work 6 rnds even for depth. Then create a crisp “turn” line: purl 1 rnd. Work 4 rnds knit. BO leaving tail. Lightly stuff the base so it holds shape but can still be squeezed.
Petal Top Edge
With blush yarn, pick up and knit 36 sts around the top rim. Work 1 rnd knit. Create petals by short flat tabs.
For each petal: BO 3 sts, then CO 3 sts on the next rnd to replace them. Repeat around to form scallops. Knit 2 rnds to stabilize, then BO loosely. This forms the soft petal look seen in the photo.
Handle
Make an i-cord: CO 3 sts, work i-cord for 7 in (18 cm). BO. Sew ends to opposite sides of the basket rim. The handle should arch gently, not stand rigidly upright.
Shawl (Cream Square with Eyelet Edge)
With yarn B and US 2, CO 46 sts. Work in garter stitch (k every row) for 40 rows, or until you have a near-square.
Edge detail: on the final RS row, work *k2tog, yo* across. Next row knit. BO loosely. This creates a tiny eyelet edging similar to the photo’s delicate border.
Fold the shawl diagonally, then fold again so it sits as a small layered triangle like the photo. Light steam-block to set crisp folds if desired.
Ranunculus Bouquet (Mini Flowers)
Flower Centers (make 5)
Using yellow floss or fingering yarn, make a tight coil: CO 12 sts, join, knit 2 rnds, then draw closed. Alternatively, crochet a tiny ring if you prefer, but keep it small and dense.
Petal Rounds
Using pink yarn, pick up stitches around the center and knit a ruffled ring by increasing every stitch once. Work 3–4 rnds, then bind off loosely. Repeat with a second shade of pink for layered depth.
Shape each bloom by rolling the knitted ring slightly and stitching the base so the petals cup inward, like ranunculus. Keep the center visible and bright, as shown in the photo’s bouquet.
Stems and Wrap
Use green yarn or floral tape over craft wire. If avoiding wire, twist 3 strands of green yarn tightly and knot at both ends. Attach each flower base to a stem with strong sewing thread.
Bundle stems together and wrap with green yarn for 1 in (2.5 cm). Tie off securely. The bouquet should lie on the table with flowers clustered, matching the photo’s casual arrangement.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Sew ears to the head sides, slightly behind the eye line so they drape downward. The top of each ear should sit under the bonnet edge, with the ear length hanging freely like in the photo.
Attach arms at the upper torso sides, just below the neck. Angle them slightly forward so the cardigan sleeves sit naturally and the hands rest near the skirt area without sticking out.
Sew legs to the bottom of the torso, spacing them evenly so the bunny stands. Check stance on a flat surface before tightening. Once stable, close any remaining bottom opening securely.
Sew the tail centered on the back. Dress the bunny: first the dress, then the cardigan. Place the bonnet, tie under the chin in a small bow, and adjust the scalloped edge to frame the face.
Slip shoes on and tack lightly at the heel with a tiny stitch if needed, especially if the toy will be handled often. Make sure straps sit neatly across the top of each foot.
Care Notes
For best results, display this set away from direct sunlight to prevent fading, especially the pink embroidery and bouquet. Gentle surface dusting with a clean, dry makeup brush keeps knitted texture looking crisp.
If the toy is a child’s gift, consider embroidering the eyes instead of using safety eyes. Always follow safety guidelines for the recipient’s age and supervised play.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head firmly stuffed, muzzle shaped and smooth.
- Eyes level and securely fastened; nose centered.
- Ears placed symmetrically and draping naturally.
- Legs aligned for a stable standing pose.
- Dress hem flat; waist eyelet band even.
- Ranunculus embroidery secured with no loose ends.
- Cardigan band neat; sleeves match length.
- Bonnet sits forward; ties secure and comfortable.
- Shoes fit snugly; bows placed on the outer sides.
- Mouse friend assembled and accessories complete.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot cleaning: Use cool water and a tiny amount of gentle wool wash on a cloth. Dab, do not rub. Support the fabric from behind with your hand to avoid stretching stitches.
Drying: Press excess moisture in a towel, then reshape and air dry flat. Keep the bonnet edge and cardigan bands straight while drying so they do not ripple.
Long-term storage: Store in a breathable cotton bag with acid-free tissue. Avoid plastic sealing for long periods, which can trap moisture. Keep bouquet and basket beside the doll to prevent crushing.
Preserving embroidery: Do not soak the skirt for extended time. If cleaning is needed, keep embroidery areas as dry as possible and blot gently. Secure any loosening stitches promptly with a discreet knot inside.
