Star Jasmine Moon-Pocket Bunny – Knitting

This charming heirloom bunny brings together a soft rabbit doll, a beret, a spring cardigan, a stitched floral skirt, tiny shoes, a crescent purse, a moon charm, a small key, a knitted kitten companion, and a little jasmine bouquet. The finished set has the look of a collectible nursery toy and a handmade gift item that many shoppers search for as a knitted bunny doll, stuffed rabbit plush, spring nursery decor piece, and artisan toy for Easter baskets or baby shower gifting. Every detail in this design is shaped to match the image closely while staying approachable for patient knitters.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Design Overview

This pattern creates a seated bunny with a large oval head, long flat ears, a softly rounded torso, slim arms, long straight legs, and rounded Mary Jane style shoes. The proportions are important. The head is noticeably larger than the upper body, and the skirt spreads outward in a gentle bell shape.

The clothing is a major part of the look. The bunny wears a pale green cardigan with a neat button band, small eyelet accents near the hem, and two little front pockets decorated with white star jasmine flowers. Under it sits a dusty blue skirt with tiny embroidered flowers scattered across the front.

The skirt hem is finished with a decorative knitted edging that gives the lower edge a delicate lacy texture. On the head sits a soft cream beret with a floral band. The ears hang down below the hat and frame the face, which is intentionally simple and sweet.

The accessories complete the full scene. A small knitted gray kitten wears a matching pale outfit and cap. Beside the bunny are a cream crescent bag, a light blue moon charm, a silver key charm, and a tiny bouquet of white jasmine flowers with green stems.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: DK weight cotton or cotton-wool blend in warm cream.
• Cardigan yarn: DK weight in soft spring green.
• Skirt yarn: DK weight in dusty sky blue.
• Beret yarn: DK weight in warm cream.
• Kitten yarn: light gray and pale gray-blue.
• Flower embroidery yarn: white, pale yellow, and a touch of green.
• Moon charm yarn: pale blue.
• Bag yarn: warm cream.
• Bouquet yarn: white, yellow, and green.
• Needles: 2.75 mm and 3.0 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop needles.
• Optional straight needles: 3.0 mm for flat pieces like ears and cardigan borders if preferred.
• Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery.
• Locking stitch markers.
• Small scissors.
• Polyfill stuffing.
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional sole inserts.
• Black embroidery floss for eyes and mouth.
• One tiny button in pale green or cream for the cardigan neck.
• Craft wire only if you want the bouquet stems to be poseable.
• Small metal key charm if you want the accessory to look metallic as in the image.

Yarn and Fabric Feel

The fabric in the image looks smooth, refined, and evenly tensioned. Choose a yarn that shows clean stockinette and crisp ribbing. Cotton blends work especially well because they help the doll keep a clear shape without fuzziness.

Use a firm gauge for all body pieces. The stuffing should never show through. The cardigan and skirt can be worked at the same needle size, but if your knitting runs loose, drop down one needle size so the outfit keeps the tailored, polished look seen in the image.

Finished Size

• Main bunny height: about 15 to 17 inches seated with hat on, depending on yarn.
• Head width: about 4 to 4.5 inches at the widest point.
• Ear length: about 4.5 to 5 inches from base to tip.
• Kitten height: about 4 to 5 inches.
• Crescent bag width: about 2.5 inches.

Gauge

On 3.0 mm needles in stockinette, aim for about 26 stitches and 36 rounds over 4 inches. Exact row gauge is less important than keeping the body proportions true. If your fabric feels loose, change needles before starting the bunny.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• M1L = make 1 left
• M1R = make 1 right
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• rep = repeat

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General Construction Notes

The bunny is made in separate pieces and then assembled. Legs are knitted first, then joined into the lower body. The torso continues upward. Arms, head, and ears are made separately. The clothing is removable if you sew lightly and avoid catching the body too deeply.

The face must stay very minimal. The eyes are tiny vertical black stitches, placed wide apart. The nose and mouth form a small Y shape, centered low on the face. Avoid adding cheeks or heavy shaping because the clean simplicity is what gives this bunny its calm expression.

Stuff all body parts firmly but smoothly. The head should be especially even. Do not overstuff the snout area. The image shows a smooth front face, not a strong protruding muzzle. Gentle shaping with your hands while stuffing will help keep the oval face balanced.

Main Bunny Legs

Shoes

Make 2 in warm cream. Start at the sole.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 1 row p.
3. Next row: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
4. P 1 row.
5. Next row: k1, kfb, k8, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
6. Work 5 rows stockinette, ending WS.
7. Shape toe: k4, k2tog, k2, ssk, k4. 12 sts.
8. P 1 row.
9. K3, k2tog, k2, ssk, k3. 10 sts.
10. P 1 row.

Fold the piece lengthwise and mattress stitch the sole and top together to create a soft slipper shape. Pick up 10 sts around the ankle opening and work in the round for the foot and leg.

Foot and Leg

1. Work 4 rnds in stockinette.
2. Next rnd: k.
3. Next rnd: k2tog at the start and end of rnd if needed to narrow slightly to 8 sts.
4. Continue straight for 22 to 26 rnds, depending on the height you want. The image shows long slim legs.
5. Stuff the shoe firmly and the leg more lightly.

Before closing the shoe shaping completely, add a tiny sole insert if you want the feet to sit flat. Make a second leg the same way.

Mary Jane Strap Detail

With a tapestry needle and matching cream yarn, embroider a shallow horizontal shoe strap across the upper front of each foot. Add a tiny diagonal anchor stitch at each outer edge so the strap looks like a real shoe band. Keep it subtle, just like the image.

Lower Body and Torso

Join the legs into one piece in cream.

1. Place the two legs on needles with inner-leg stitches facing each other.
2. K across first leg, CO 2 sts, k across second leg, CO 2 sts. 20 sts total if each leg has 8 sts.
3. Arrange markers at side points.
4. Work 4 rnds stockinette.
5. Increase round: M1R, knit to 1 st before side marker, M1L, sm, M1R, knit to 1 st before next side marker, M1L, sm. 24 sts.
6. Work 4 rnds even.
7. Repeat the increase round once more. 28 sts.
8. Work 10 rnds even.

The lower body should now look gently rounded, not wide. The image shows a slim body hidden by clothing, so avoid making a large belly. Begin light stuffing now and continue as you work.

1. Decrease round: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1; repeat at second side. 24 sts.
2. Work 6 rnds even.
3. Decrease round as above. 20 sts.
4. Work 4 rnds even.
5. Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib for the waist edge where the skirt will sit smoothly beneath the cardigan.
6. Return to stockinette and work 6 rnds.

BO loosely, leaving a long tail for sewing the torso to the head if you prefer to join later at the neck. You may also continue from live stitches into the neck tube if you work the doll in a more integrated method. Either approach works.

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Arms

Make 2 in cream, then switch to green for cardigan sleeves only if you want attached sleeves. For a removable cardigan, keep the arms entirely cream.

1. CO 8 sts and join to work in the round.
2. Work 5 rnds stockinette for the paw.
3. Increase to 10 sts evenly over next rnd.
4. Work 18 to 20 rnds even.
5. Stuff the paw firmly and the upper arm lightly.
6. Flatten the top opening and close with three-needle bind off or mattress stitch after stuffing.

The arms in the image hang straight with only a soft bend. Sew them slightly downward from the shoulder line so they rest naturally beside the cardigan front edges.

Head

Make 1 in warm cream. The head is an oval with a smooth front and soft side width.

1. CO 8 sts and divide for working in the round.
2. Rnd 1: kfb around. 16 sts.
3. Rnd 2: k.
4. Rnd 3: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 4: k.
6. Rnd 5: k2, kfb around. 32 sts.
7. Rnd 6: k.
8. Rnd 7: k3, kfb around. 40 sts.
9. Rnd 8: k.
10. Rnd 9: k4, kfb around. 48 sts.
11. Work 22 rnds even.

This central section forms the wide face. Keep the stuffing very smooth as the head grows. Massage the filling so there are no lumps. The image shows a refined, almost porcelain-like finish, so take extra time here.

1. Decrease rnd: k4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
2. Work 1 rnd even.
3. Decrease rnd: k3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
4. Work 1 rnd even.
5. Decrease rnd: k2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
6. Stuff firmly.
7. Decrease rnd: k1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
8. Decrease rnd: k2tog around. 8 sts.
9. Thread yarn through remaining sts and close.

For a softer chin line, use a strand of matching yarn to make a tiny horizontal tightening stitch underneath the face, only lightly. Do not make a strong muzzle. You only want a suggestion of lower-face shaping.

Ears

Make 2 flat ears in warm cream. The ears are long, simple, and slightly tapered, with rounded ends. They hang straight down from the hat.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work in stockinette flat for 4 rows.
3. Row 5: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
4. Work 5 rows even.
5. Repeat the decrease row.
6. Work 5 rows even.
7. Repeat decrease row.
8. Continue until 8 sts remain.
9. Work 8 more rows even.
10. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
11. WS purl.
12. Next RS row: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
13. WS purl.
14. K2tog twice. 2 sts.
15. Cut yarn and pull through.

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Make a second side for each ear or fold each ear in half lengthwise with the wrong side inside, then sew around the edge lightly. Very lightly stuff only the ear base, or leave unstuffed for the flat drape seen in the image.

Face Embroidery

Use black embroidery floss split to one or two strands.

• Place the eyes about one third of the way down from the top of the head.
• Leave a wide space between them.
• Each eye is a tiny vertical satin stitch or two small stacked stitches.
• The nose is a small V shape in dark brown or black.
• Extend one short vertical stitch down from the nose to form the mouth.

The face should feel quiet and gentle. Keep the nose very small. If the mouth becomes too long, remove it and redo it. The image depends on restraint, not heavy expression.

Assembly of Core Bunny

1. Sew the ears to the sides of the head, slightly behind the widest front face area.
2. Attach the head to the torso with the face centered over the legs.
3. Add extra stuffing at the neck as you sew if needed.
4. Sew arms to the upper torso, angled slightly downward.
5. Check that the bunny sits straight before closing all seams fully.

Blue Skirt

The skirt is worked from the waistband downward in dusty blue. It should sit under the cardigan and spread gently over the bunny’s lap.

1. CO 56 sts and join to work in the round.
2. Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
3. Change to stockinette.
4. Increase rnd: k7, M1R around. 63 sts.
5. Work 6 rnds even.
6. Increase rnd: k8, M1R around as evenly as possible. 70 sts.
7. Work 8 rnds even.
8. Increase rnd: k9, M1R around. 77 sts.
9. Work 10 rnds even.

The skirt should now look softly full, not stiff. If needed, add one more increase round for a wider drape. The hemline in the image reaches below the knees when the bunny is seated, so check the length against your doll before adding the edging.

Decorative Skirt Hem

For the final 10 rounds, work a simple eyelet-and-twist inspired edging that creates texture without becoming too open.

1. Rnd 1: k2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo; rep around as possible.
2. Rnd 2: knit.
3. Rnd 3: purl.
4. Rnd 4: knit.
5. Rnd 5: k1, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo, k1; rep around.
6. Rnd 6: knit.
7. Rnd 7: purl.
8. Rnd 8: knit.
9. Rnd 9: purl loosely.
10. BO knitwise on the next round.

Block the lower edge gently so the lace-like detail shows. Do not overstretch it. The image shows a refined scalloped texture rather than a dramatic lace border.

Skirt Floral Embroidery

Scatter small jasmine-like flowers across the front half of the skirt using white and pale yellow yarn. Make each flower with five tiny detached stitches or short lazy-daisy style loops. Add a pale yellow French-knot style center or one small straight stitch cluster.

Keep the flowers sparse. The image shows only a handful of blooms, placed lightly so the skirt remains mostly blue. Concentrate them around the lower half, with one very small motif near the center waist area if desired.

Green Cardigan

The cardigan is worked flat from the lower body upward in one piece to the armholes, then fronts and back are completed separately. Sleeves are worked separately and sewn in. The fit is neat and slightly cropped.

Body of Cardigan

1. CO 42 sts in green.
2. Row 1 RS: k3, p1, k35, p1, k3.
3. Row 2 WS: k3, p36, k3.
4. Repeat these 2 rows for 8 rows total, keeping the 3-stitch garter borders at both fronts.

Now work tiny eyelet accents near the lower hem.

1. RS eyelet row: k3, yo, k2tog, work in pattern to last 5 sts, ssk, yo, k3.
2. WS row in pattern.
3. Work 10 more rows in the established pattern.

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Separate for fronts and back.

• Right front: 10 sts
• Back: 22 sts
• Left front: 10 sts

Right Front

1. Work 14 rows, keeping front border in garter and remaining sts in stockinette.
2. Shape neckline: at the front edge, BO 2 sts once, then dec 1 st every RS row 3 times.
3. Continue until armhole depth matches the image, about 18 total rows from split.
4. BO shoulder sts.

Left Front

Work to match the right front, reversing the neckline shaping.

Back

1. Work 16 rows even.
2. Shape shoulders by BO 4 sts at each edge once, then 3 sts at each edge once.
3. BO remaining center sts.

Sleeves

Make 2 in green.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Switch to stockinette and inc 1 st at each edge every 6th row, 4 times. 26 sts.
4. Work even until sleeve length suits the arm and reaches wrist-to-shoulder proportion in the image.
5. BO loosely.

Sew shoulder seams, set in sleeves, then sew side and sleeve seams. The sleeves should be smooth and slightly roomy, not puffed.

Cardigan Front Bands

Pick up stitches evenly along each front edge and neck. Work 3 rows garter. Create one buttonhole near the neckline on the right front band by working yo, k2tog. Sew one tiny button opposite.

Cardigan Pockets

Make 2 small pockets in green.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette with 1 edge stitch in garter at both sides.
3. Work 2 rows garter.
4. BO.

Sew each pocket to the lower fronts, angled slightly outward just as in the image. Leave the top edge open.

Star Jasmine Pocket Flowers

On each pocket, embroider one white jasmine flower with a pale yellow center. Make five pointed petals using straight stitches. Add one or two green stitches for a tiny leaf or stem. Keep the flowers large enough to be visible, but still delicate.

Beret

The beret is a defining feature of this design. It has a rounded crown, a floral eyelet band, and a narrow lower brim that sits softly above the ears.

1. CO 72 sts in cream and join.
2. Work 4 rnds in k1, p1 rib.
3. Next rnd: increase evenly to 84 sts.
4. Work 6 rnds stockinette.

Floral Band

To imitate the daisy-like motif seen in the image, work the following 8-round texture band:

1. Rnd 1: k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p1; rep around.
2. Rnd 2: knit all knit stitches and purl all purl stitches as they appear.
3. Rnd 3: p1, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, p1; rep around.
4. Rnd 4: work as stitches appear.
5. Rnd 5: k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, p1; rep around.
6. Rnd 6: work as stitches appear.
7. Rnd 7: knit.
8. Rnd 8: purl.

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Continue with the crown shaping.

1. Increase evenly to 96 sts for the fullest part of the beret.
2. Work 8 rnds even.
3. Decrease rnd: k10, k2tog around. 88 sts.
4. Work 2 rnds even.
5. Decrease rnd: k9, k2tog around. 80 sts.
6. Work 2 rnds even.
7. Continue in this way, reducing by 8 sts every third rnd until 16 sts remain.
8. Stuff nothing. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull closed.

Steam very lightly and flatten by hand so one side slouches slightly. The beret in the image sits at a soft angle rather than straight and centered like a cap.

Crescent Bag

Make 2 bag sides in cream.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Inc 1 st at the start of each RS row until 14 sts.
3. Work 4 rows even.
4. Dec 1 st at the start of each RS row until 3 sts.
5. BO.

Sew the two crescent shapes together around the curved lower edge, leaving the top open. Add a narrow i-cord strap and sew to both ends. The bag should look soft and lightly padded.

Moon Charm

Make 2 tiny crescent shapes in pale blue, using the same method as the bag but at half the stitch count. Sew together lightly with a small amount of stuffing. Attach to a short yarn loop or a tiny ring if desired.

Key Accessory

The image shows a small key lying near the moon charm. The simplest match is to attach a miniature metal key charm from your notions or jewelry supplies. If you prefer a knitted version, embroider a tiny key onto a felt backing and cut it out neatly.

Small Knitted Kitten

This tiny companion should be simple, slim, and understated so it does not compete with the main bunny. Use light gray for the head, arms, and legs, and pale gray-blue for the dress. Add a cream cap to echo the bunny’s beret.

Kitten Head

1. CO 6 sts and join.
2. Increase evenly to 24 sts over several rounds.
3. Work 8 rnds even.
4. Shape tiny cat ears by making two small pinched corners during finishing, or knit separate small triangles and sew on.
5. Decrease evenly back to 8 sts and close after stuffing lightly.

Kitten Body and Dress

1. CO 20 sts in pale gray-blue and join.
2. Work 3 rnds purl ridge or garter-style texture if knitting flat and sewing.
3. Continue in stockinette for 10 rnds.
4. Decrease evenly to 16 sts.
5. Work 6 rnds.
6. Stuff lightly and close.

Kitten Arms and Legs

Make tiny tubes with 5 or 6 stitches each, very lightly stuffed. Sew arms at the sides and legs under the body so the kitten can sit upright as shown.

Kitten Face and Cap

Embroider two tiny black eyes and a small pink triangular nose with short whisker stitches. For the cap, work a miniature beret in cream, very simple, with a lightly slouched crown. Sew it in place.

Jasmine Bouquet

The bouquet contains several white flowers gathered with green stems. Make 5 small blossoms.

1. For each flower, knit or embroider five narrow white petals around a yellow center.
2. Attach each flower to a green stem made from i-cord, twisted yarn, or yarn wrapped over floral wire.
3. Gather the stems together and wrap with matching yarn near the base.
4. Add 1 or 2 small green leaves.

The bouquet should remain tiny compared with the bunny. In the image it rests casually by the lower right side, adding balance to the composition.

Blocking and Finishing Notes

Light blocking makes a big difference in this design. Steam the cardigan gently from the wrong side under a cloth. Do the same for the skirt hem and beret. Do not flatten the stuffed body pieces. Shape them by hand only.

After dressing the bunny, use a few hidden stitches to hold the cardigan in the exact open position you prefer. This helps the pockets angle correctly and keeps the skirt visible. The outfit in the image looks tidy, not loose or rumpled.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Dress the bunny in the skirt first, then the cardigan, then place the beret slightly off-center. Arrange the ears so they fall straight down under the hat. Sew only tiny tacking stitches if you want the hat and cardigan to stay in place during display.

Recheck the face after the hat is on. The eyes should still sit evenly. If needed, deepen one eye stitch slightly so both sides match. Keep the mouth centered and short. Small adjustments at this stage matter more than any other finishing step.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from direct sunlight.
• Keep away from rough handling if used as decor.
• Spot clean first whenever possible.
• Avoid soaking metal accessories like the key charm.
• Store the bouquet and tiny accessories separately if giving to a child.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears the same length and attached evenly?
• Does the head sit straight on the body?
• Do the cardigan fronts open neatly and match at the hem?
• Are the pocket flowers placed at similar heights?
• Does the skirt spread smoothly over the lap?
• Is the beret softly slouched rather than tight and flat?
• Are the kitten, bag, moon charm, key, and bouquet all complete?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a clean dry cloth or a soft brush to remove dust. For marks, dab gently with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap, then blot with a towel. Never scrub the face embroidery or the pocket flowers aggressively.

If the bunny becomes misshapen in storage, reshape by hand and allow it to rest flat. Keep tissue paper inside the beret and around the skirt hem if storing long term. Store in a breathable cotton bag, never in sealed plastic for extended periods.

For heirloom keeping, avoid hanging the bunny by the arms or ears. Support the whole body when moving it. If the stuffing settles after time, open a hidden seam at the back, add a little fresh filling, and close neatly with ladder stitch.