This elegant knitted bunny is designed as a soft heirloom doll with a romantic garden look, perfect for collectors, nursery decor lovers, and anyone searching for a handmade rabbit doll gift. The design combines a gentle bonnet, a pale green capelet, a blue floral dress, tiny Mary Jane shoes, and charming display pieces. If you enjoy boutique-style knitted animals, cottagecore room accents, artisan doll decor, or seasonal handmade gifts, this project creates a beautifully styled set with strong display appeal while still feeling warm, classic, and timeless.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Overview
This bunny is a standing display doll with a calm face, long drooping ears, a softly rounded body, and a carefully layered outfit. The finished look should feel delicate, refined, and slightly old-fashioned, just like a collectible garden doll placed in a twilight gazebo.
The clothing is not bulky. The body remains slim and neatly proportioned, while the dress gives a gentle bell shape. The accessories are an important part of the finished set, so they should be made with the same care as the bunny itself.
- Main piece: standing bunny doll
- Wearables: eyelet-style bonnet, capelet, floral dress, shoes
- Display accessories: drawstring lantern bag, hanging lantern cover, swan figure, bouquet, embroidered name mat
Finished Size
If worked at a firm toy gauge, the bunny measures about 11 to 12 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the bonnet ruffle. The body itself, without bonnet, is slightly shorter.
The accessories are scaled to sit neatly around the bunny without looking oversized. The swan should reach about ankle height. The lantern pieces should rest slightly below knee height. The bouquet should look as if it can be held in one paw.
Yarn and Materials
Use lightweight yarn with excellent stitch definition. A smooth fingering or light sport yarn is best for the doll, clothing, and most accessories. The bunny in the image has fine, even stitches, so avoid fuzzy yarn for the main structure.
- Bunny body color: warm beige or soft oatmeal
- Dress main color: dusty sky blue
- Dress flower color: pale butter yellow
- Leaf and stem color: muted moss green
- Capelet color: soft sage green
- Bonnet color: cream or antique ivory
- Shoes color: medium dusty blue
- Swan color: soft white, tiny amount black and orange
- Lanterns: mushroom brown, taupe, cream
- Bouquet: cream, white, blush pink, pale yellow, leaf green
You will also need toy stuffing, a tapestry needle, fine sewing needle, black embroidery floss, small amount of matching sewing thread, thin cream ribbon, a tiny battery tea light for display if desired, and optional thin card or plastic canvas to stabilize the base of the lanterns.
Use double-pointed needles or magic loop for small circumferences. A second needle size smaller is useful for ribbed trims and shoe straps.
Gauge and Fabric Notes
The fabric must be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. Knit tighter than you would for a garment. A toy-quality fabric is essential because the bunny face, paws, and legs need crisp shaping.
Exact gauge is less important than proportion. Keep the head large and rounded, the body slim, the arms short, and the legs slightly elongated. If your work loosens, go down a needle size.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- inc = increase
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- p2tog = purl 2 together
- yo = yarn over
- BO = bind off
- rnd = round
- rep = repeat
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
Construction Notes
The bunny is made in separate parts and then assembled. The head and body are worked as individual pieces so the neck shaping stays neat and the face can be placed with precision.
The dress is knitted separately and sewn closed at the back, or worked with a narrow opening if you prefer removable clothing. For the most polished display result shown in the image, lightly tack the layers in place after dressing the bunny.
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Head
Using beige, CO 12 sts and divide onto needles for working in the round. Increase evenly over the next several rounds until you have 48 sts. Work even in St st until the head forms a smooth sphere.
Shape the muzzle subtly. On the front center area only, work 4 short rows over the middle 16 stitches, wrapping at each turn. This creates a gentle forward projection without producing a pronounced snout.
Continue even for several rounds after the short rows. Begin decreasing gradually at the top of the head, spacing decreases evenly every other round. When about half the stitches remain, start stuffing firmly.
Add stuffing in small pieces, especially around the cheeks. The finished head should look softly full, not hard. Continue decreasing to 8 stitches, thread yarn through remaining stitches, pull closed, and fasten securely.
The face in the image is simple and serene. Keep the front smooth. Do not over-sculpt. A faint central nose ridge can be made later with light embroidery and a single anchoring stitch from top muzzle to neck base.
Body
Using beige, CO 16 sts and join for working in the round. Increase gradually to 36 sts. Work even for the lower body, stuffing lightly as you go. The shape should remain narrow and upright rather than round and plush.
After the lower section, work a few paired decreases at the sides to suggest a waist. Continue even for several rounds. Then increase slightly again at the chest so the body supports the wrapped bodice of the dress.
For the neck, decrease to 18 sts and work a short neck tube. BO neatly, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Stuff the body firmly at the base and moderately at the top so it stands well once the legs are attached.
Legs
Make 2. Using beige, CO 10 sts and join in the round. Work 2 rounds even. Increase to 14 sts. Continue in St st for the foot and lower leg. The legs in the image are slim, straight, and proportionally longer than the arms.
Stuff the feet firmly and the upper legs lightly. If you want the bunny to stand more securely, insert a tiny strip of folded felt or plastic canvas into the sole area before closing the foot section.
Work each leg to a length that places the dress hem just above the shoe straps. BO with a long tail. The legs are sewn flat against the lower body, angled only very slightly outward so the stance looks natural.
Arms
Make 2. Using beige, CO 8 sts and join in the round. Increase to 12 sts. Work even for a short forearm and upper arm. The arms should end above the dress hem and look softly tapered at the wrist.
Stuff very lightly. These arms should not be rigid. Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Leave a tail for attaching. When positioned, the arms should rest close to the sides with a gentle forward tilt.
Ears
Make 2. Using beige, CO 8 sts. Work flat in St st. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row until 18 sts. Work even for several rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row until 8 sts remain.
BO. Do not stuff. Fold the cast-on edge slightly and sew it closed to form the base. The ears in the image hang downward from under the bonnet, so they should be soft, long, and slightly curved inward.
Lightly steam or damp block them if needed so they lie flat. Attach each ear at the upper side of the head, just below the bonnet line, allowing them to fall beside the face.
Facial Features
Using black embroidery floss split to a fine strand, make two tiny straight eyes. They should be small, evenly spaced, and set low enough to keep the bunny sweet rather than surprised.
For the nose, use beige-brown floss one shade darker than the head. Embroider a narrow inverted triangle with a soft vertical center line extending down. Add a tiny V-shaped mouth below.
The face in the image is very restrained. Avoid eyelashes, cheek blush, or bold shaping. A clean, minimal face is what gives the doll its antique charm.
Dress Skirt
Using dusty blue, CO enough stitches to create a lightly flared skirt. A good starting count is 84 sts worked in the round, or flat if you prefer a back seam. Work 6 rows in garter or seed-edge style for the hem band.
Change to St st and place markers to divide the skirt into 6 equal flower panels. The angel’s trumpet motifs sit around the lower half of the skirt, not at the waist. Begin the motifs after a few plain rounds above the hem.
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Each flower hangs downward. Work each motif with a narrow green stem, a soft yellow flared bell, and cream edging or interior highlight so the flowers read clearly against the blue background.
To match the image, each flower should be long and trumpet shaped, with the opening at the bottom. Add small bobble-like buds or French-knot-style sewn nubs beneath some blooms for the tiny dangling details.
Between motifs, knit slim green leaf shapes. These leaves angle upward from the stems and break up the blue background. Keep them narrow so the skirt still looks refined rather than crowded.
Once the motif band is complete, continue a few plain blue rounds. Then decrease gradually toward the waist. The upper skirt should gather softly into the bodice without looking bulky.
Dress Bodice
The bodice is fitted and crossed in front. Pick up stitches from the top of the skirt or work separately, then sew on. Using dusty blue, shape two front panels that cross in a wrap style over a cream inset.
For the cream inset, knit a small triangular panel in cream and stitch it beneath the crossover. This subtle contrast is visible at the neckline in the image and helps define the front construction.
The bodice should sit close to the body. Work short rows at the bust if needed so the front lies flat. Keep the neckline modest and gently V-shaped. The waist seam should be crisp and clean.
If making the dress non-removable, sew the bodice closed at the back after dressing the bunny. If you prefer a removable dress, leave a narrow back opening and close it with tiny snaps or concealed stitches.
Capelet
Using soft sage green, pick up stitches around the neckline or work the capelet separately from the neck outward. The capelet is short, rounded, and ends just below the shoulders with a soft scalloped lower edge.
Work several increase rounds to create the drape. The cape should not be stiff. It needs enough spread to cover the shoulders and upper arms while still showing the dress bodice beneath.
For the scalloped edge, work a simple decorative rhythm such as [k2tog, yo] on one round followed by a shaping round, or create small shell points by binding off loosely after paired increases. Keep the scallops shallow and neat.
At the front, the capelet opens slightly. Finish the neck edge smoothly so the cream ribbon can sit on top without catching. The ribbon is tied in a soft bow centered under the chin.
Bonnet
The bonnet is one of the most important styling pieces. Use cream yarn and work a close-fitting cap first. Begin at the face edge or crown, whichever construction you prefer, but make sure the finished bonnet frames the head snugly.
The crown should cover the top and sides of the head while leaving the lower face open. Add a back section deep enough that the bonnet sits securely above the ears.
Once the cap shape is complete, work the ruffled brim. Increase generously and create eyelet texture using evenly spaced yo and paired decreases. The brim should be wide enough to form a soft gathered halo around the face.
The image shows a bonnet edge that looks lace-like and embroidered with eyelets. To imitate this in knitting, work alternating eyelet rounds and plain rounds, then finish with a tiny picot-like bind off or a loose decorative edge.
Sew a narrow cream ribbon to the lower sides of the bonnet. Tie it under the chin in a full bow with trailing ends. The bow should be larger than the mouth area but smaller than the width of the cape front.
Shoes
Make 2 using dusty blue. Begin at the sole. CO 8 sts and work an oval sole with increases at both ends over several rounds. Pick up around the edge and work the side wall of the shoe in St st.
Decrease across the toe to create a rounded front. Work the opening so the top of the foot remains visible. The shoes in the image resemble tiny Mary Jane flats with a strap crossing the instep.
For each strap, pick up 3 to 4 stitches at one side of the opening, work a narrow band, and sew it to the opposite side. Lightly tack the shoes to the feet after dressing the bunny so they remain centered.
Assembly of Bunny and Clothing
- Sew the head to the body, keeping the face centered and upright.
- Attach the legs evenly at the base so the bunny can balance in a standing pose.
- Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body with a slight forward tilt.
- Attach the ears to the head, allowing them to droop beside the cheeks.
- Dress the bunny in the blue floral dress.
- Add the capelet over the dress.
- Place the shoes on the feet and tack in place.
- Fit the bonnet and tie the ribbon bow neatly under the chin.
Check the silhouette from the front before securing everything permanently. The head should look slightly large in relation to the body, which gives the doll its gentle, collectible style.
Drawstring Lantern Bag
This small accessory sits on the left side in the image and looks like a lantern-shaped sack with a tied top. Using mushroom brown, CO at the base and work a small cylinder.
Create a cream lattice or window pattern around the middle using duplicate stitch or stranded detail. Work a narrowing section toward the top, then thread a cream cord through eyelets and tie a bow.
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Lightly stuff the base so it stands upright. If desired, place a tiny faux light inside for display only. Keep it soft and decorative rather than rigid.
Hanging Lantern Cover
This second lantern is taller and slimmer, with an opening that reveals a glowing candle. Using taupe-brown, knit a rounded base and body. Shape a narrow neck and a small domed top.
Add a knitted hanging loop at the crown. Leave the front area more open or use vertical bars so the inner tea light can show through. If using a battery tea light, make sure it can be removed easily.
The cover should look handcrafted and slightly rustic, contrasting with the refined bunny outfit. Keep the stitches plain and the shape simple.
Swan Figure
Using white, knit a tiny oval body in the round and stuff lightly. The swan in the image is plump, low, and rounded, with the neck rising up in a soft curve.
For the neck, knit a narrow tube and sew it in an S-curve. The head is very small. Add a black patch at the face and a tiny orange beak. Finish with a fine pale ribbon tied around the neck.
The swan should feel decorative rather than realistic. Its role is to echo the calm garden mood of the set.
Flower Bouquet
This bouquet includes several trumpet-like and petaled flowers in soft pastel shades. Use cream, white, blush pink, and pale yellow for the blooms, with muted green leaves and stems.
Knit or form tiny blossoms individually. For trumpet flowers, make miniature flared tubes. For open blossoms, work tiny five-petal shapes. Gather them together on wrapped stems and bind with a soft pink band.
Add three to five leaves of varying sizes. The bouquet should be small enough to sit at the bunny’s feet without overpowering the scene.
Embroidered Name Mat
Using cream yarn, knit a small square in garter stitch or seed stitch so it lies flat. The square should be about the width of both bunny shoes placed side by side.
Embroider the words Twilight Gazebo in the center using blue-violet thread. Add tiny floral details around the edges with green stems and pastel blossoms to match the bouquet and dress palette.
This mat is a small detail, but it makes the display feel complete and helps reinforce the mood of the design.
Styling Notes for Accuracy
- The bunny must remain slim and upright, not chubby.
- The bonnet brim must be soft, wide, and eyelet-like.
- The capelet should stop at the upper body, not cover the skirt.
- The dress needs a dusty blue ground with downward yellow angel’s trumpet flowers.
- The shoes must be dusty blue with visible straps.
- The ribbon under the bonnet should be cream and tied in a full bow.
- The accessories should feel coordinated, delicate, and garden themed.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
After all pieces are attached, sit the bunny upright and adjust the bonnet so the face is evenly framed. Recheck both eyes, making sure they match in height and angle.
Gently pinch the muzzle and add one or two tiny anchoring stitches if needed to define the nose line. Straighten the ears, smooth the capelet, and center the bow under the chin.
Arrange the accessories close to the feet, keeping the swan to one side, the bouquet in front, and the lanterns grouped naturally for a balanced display.
Care Notes
This piece is best treated as a decorative knitted doll rather than a rough-play toy. Store it away from direct sunlight to protect the soft pastel shades.
If the bunny is handled often, retie the ribbon occasionally and reshape the bonnet brim with clean fingers. Keep battery light accessories separate when not in use.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Are both eyes placed evenly?
- Does the bonnet sit close to the face?
- Is the capelet smooth across the shoulders?
- Do the flowers on the skirt point downward like trumpets?
- Are the shoes centered on both feet?
- Are all accessory colors soft and coordinated?
- Does the whole scene match a quiet twilight garden mood?
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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean only when possible using a lightly damp cloth and a very small amount of mild soap. Do not soak the embroidered mat or ribbon unless absolutely necessary.
If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash gently in cool water, squeeze without twisting, and reshape every part while damp. Dry flat on a towel and keep the bonnet brim arranged neatly as it dries.
For long-term storage, wrap the bunny in acid-free tissue and keep it in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags, heavy stacking, moisture, and heat.
