Viburnum Snowball Tea-Garden Bunny – Knitting

Viburnum Snowball Tea-Garden Bunny – Knitting

This elegant hand-knit bunny set is designed to look like a collectible heirloom toy with soft garden styling, delicate accessories, and a calm neutral palette. The finished project makes a beautiful nursery decor piece, a charming handmade gift, or a boutique-style stuffed rabbit for spring display, baby shower gifting, or seasonal home decor.

The set includes the dressed bunny, flowered hat, textured cardigan, skirt, shoes, floral tote, tiny teacup, pastry, bouquet, and the small companion bear. Every piece is shaped to match the image closely, while still being practical for knitters who enjoy detailed toy making and polished handmade results.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

  • Main bunny yarn: sport or light DK weight in warm oatmeal beige.
  • Hat and cardigan yarn: the same warm oatmeal beige.
  • Skirt yarn: matching oatmeal beige.
  • Flower yarn: soft ivory or snowball white.
  • Leaf yarn: muted moss green.
  • Mini bear yarn: medium beige-brown.
  • Mini bear dress yarn: dusty blush pink.
  • Pastry filling yarn: tan and cream.
  • Cup beverage yarn: cocoa brown.
  • Toy stuffing: firm polyester fiberfill.
  • Knitting needles: 2.5 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop circular for most pieces.
  • Optional larger needles: 2.75 mm for skirt if you want softer drape.
  • Tapestry needle for sewing and duplicate stitch details.
  • Stitch markers for round starts and shaping points.
  • Waste yarn for holding stitches.
  • Small buttons or snaps: optional, though this design can also be closed with sewn hooks.
  • Black embroidery thread for eyes and facial accents.
  • Thin beige sewing thread for sculpting and tidy finishing.
  • Cardboard circle or plastic canvas: optional for the bag base and saucer.

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge is not critical in toy knitting, but consistency matters a lot. Knit tightly enough that stuffing does not show through the stitches.

  • Suggested gauge: 28 to 32 sts and 36 to 42 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette with 2.5 mm needles.
  • Finished bunny height: about 11 to 12 inches tall from foot to top of head, not including hat brim.
  • Hat width: broad enough to extend beyond the ears with a soft downward brim.
  • Mini bear height: about 4 inches seated.

Abbreviations

  • CO = cast on
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • St(s) = stitch(es)
  • Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
  • K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
  • SSK = slip, slip, knit
  • P2tog = purl 2 stitches together
  • M1L / M1R = make 1 left / make 1 right
  • RS / WS = right side / wrong side
  • Rep = repeat
  • BO = bind off
  • PM = place marker
  • SM = slip marker
  • IBO = i-cord bind off

Design Notes

This bunny is built from separate shaped parts and then dressed in removable or partly removable pieces. The silhouette in the image is rounded and gentle, not slim, so use generous stuffing in the head, upper body, and feet.

The look depends on three things: a wide round head, long downward ears, and a softly structured outfit with raised floral texture. Keep your stitches even and your shaping gradual. Clean finishing matters more here than speed.

The cardigan fronts sit open at the lower edge and curve slightly outward. The skirt is gathered from the waist and finished with a row of large bobble-like snowball trim. The hat must look broad, soft, and slightly oversized.

Main Bunny: Legs and Feet

Knit both legs from the feet upward. The feet in the image are rounded slippers with a flat standing base, a smooth top, and a gentle toe curve. Make two.

Foot Base

  1. CO 8 sts using beige.
  2. Work flat in garter for 6 rows.
  3. Row 7: Kfb, K6, Kfb. 10 sts.
  4. Row 8: P.
  5. Row 9: Kfb, K8, Kfb. 12 sts.
  6. Row 10: P.
  7. Repeat this increase pair until you have 18 sts.

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Pick up stitches around the oval base to begin working in the round. You want a total of 36 sts. Divide evenly across needles and PM for round start.

Foot Cup

  1. Rounds 1 to 4: Knit.
  2. Round 5: K12, K2tog, K8, SSK, K12.
  3. Round 6: Knit.
  4. Round 7: K11, K2tog, K8, SSK, K11.
  5. Round 8: Knit.

Stuff the toe lightly. Continue in stockinette for 8 more rounds. The foot should now resemble a soft slipper with a full front and slightly narrower ankle.

Leg

  1. Next round: decrease evenly to 28 sts.
  2. Knit 18 rounds.
  3. Increase round: K14, M1R, K14, M1L. 30 sts.
  4. Knit 10 rounds.

Stuff the lower leg firmly, but do not overfill the uppermost inch. BO live stitches loosely if you prefer sewing later, or leave live stitches on waste yarn for joining to the body.

Knit the second leg the same way.

Main Bunny: Body

The bunny body is pear-shaped but hidden under clothing, so focus on correct bulk rather than sharp waist shaping. Join both legs and work upward in the round.

  1. Place both legs on needles, 30 sts each.
  2. Using backward loop, CO 4 sts between legs at center front and 4 sts at center back while joining. 68 sts total.
  3. Round 1: Knit across all sts, placing markers at side seams if desired.
  4. Rounds 2 to 8: Knit.

Begin gentle body widening to create the soft lower torso seen under the skirt.

  1. Round 9: K16, M1R, K18, M1R, K16, M1R, K18, M1R. 72 sts.
  2. Rounds 10 to 16: Knit.
  3. Round 17: K18, K2tog, K14, SSK, K18, K2tog, K14, SSK. 68 sts.
  4. Rounds 18 to 24: Knit.

Stuff the body as you go. The lower torso should be firm enough to stand visually upright, but still soft. Continue upward with mild shaping.

  1. Round 25: decrease evenly to 60 sts.
  2. Rounds 26 to 34: Knit.
  3. Round 35: decrease evenly to 52 sts.
  4. Rounds 36 to 42: Knit.

The upper torso should be slightly narrower than the hips. This lets the cardigan sit neatly and keeps the head from looking too small. Finish by preparing the shoulder and neck area.

  1. Round 43: decrease evenly to 44 sts.
  2. Rounds 44 to 46: Knit.
  3. Round 47: K2tog around. 22 sts.
  4. Round 48: Knit.

Stuff firmly up to the neckline. Leave the 22 sts live for the neck and head if working seamlessly. If you prefer separate construction, BO and sew later. For the closest match to the image, continue directly into the head.

Main Bunny: Head

The head is large, nearly circular from the front, with a soft muzzle area and subtle cheek fullness. The face is simple and calm. Increase slowly so the fabric remains smooth.

  1. From 22 neck sts, knit 1 round.
  2. Increase round: Kfb into every st. 44 sts.
  3. Round 2: Knit.
  4. Round 3: K4, M1R, rep around. 55 sts.
  5. Round 4: Knit.
  6. Round 5: K5, M1R, rep around. 66 sts.
  7. Rounds 6 to 16: Knit.

At this point, begin stuffing the head quite firmly. The chin and lower face should stay rounded rather than pointed. Add stuffing in small pieces to avoid lumps.

  1. Round 17: K9, K2tog, rep around. 60 sts.
  2. Round 18: Knit.
  3. Round 19: K8, K2tog, rep around. 54 sts.
  4. Round 20: Knit.
  5. Round 21: K7, K2tog, rep around. 48 sts.
  6. Round 22: Knit.
  7. Round 23: K6, K2tog, rep around. 42 sts.
  8. Round 24: K5, K2tog, rep around. 36 sts.
  9. Round 25: K4, K2tog, rep around. 30 sts.

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Finish stuffing firmly. The front should be smooth, full, and slightly wider than tall. Draw the remaining stitches closed tightly and weave in the tail securely.

Main Bunny: Muzzle Shaping and Face

The face in the image is minimal. The eyes are tiny dark vertical ovals, placed widely apart. The nose and mouth form a narrow Y shape centered low on the face.

  • Mark the eye line about halfway between crown and chin.
  • Place eyes about 8 to 10 stitches apart.
  • Use black embroidery thread and make each eye 2 to 3 stitches long vertically.
  • Do not over-enlarge the eyes. Small eyes are essential to the gentle expression.

For the nose, use matching beige-brown embroidery thread. Work a tiny vertical satin stitch 3 stitches long. From its base, embroider a short split line downward, then two small angled mouth lines.

If you want slight muzzle shaping, thread a strong matching yarn through the face horizontally, entering at one cheek and exiting at the other. Pull very lightly. This gives the center face a subtle forward look without harsh indentation.

Main Bunny: Ears

The ears are long, soft, and droop straight down from under the hat. They are wide at the top and gently rounded at the tip. Knit two flat pieces and seam, or knit each ear in the round and flatten. Flat pieces give better control.

  1. CO 14 sts.
  2. Rows 1 and 2: stockinette.
  3. Increase row: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, K1. 16 sts.
  4. Work 6 rows even.
  5. Increase row again at both edges. 18 sts.
  6. Work 18 rows even.

Begin tapering gently.

  1. Row 1: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
  2. Row 2: Purl.
  3. Repeat these 2 rows until 8 sts remain.
  4. Work 2 rows even.
  5. Next row: K1, SSK, K2, K2tog, K1. 6 sts.
  6. Purl 1 row.
  7. K2tog, K2, K2tog. 4 sts.
  8. Purl 1 row.
  9. K2tog twice. 2 sts.
  10. K2tog. Fasten off.

Make a second matching piece for each ear if you want lined ears, or use the single piece folded lengthwise. Lightly stuff only the top third. Sew the ears to the upper side of the head so they fall from beneath the hat brim.

Main Bunny: Arms

The arms are simple, tube-shaped, and softly tapered at the wrist. They should end around the hip level when attached. Make two.

  1. CO 12 sts and join in the round.
  2. Rounds 1 to 5: Knit.
  3. Round 6: K1, M1R, K5, M1L, K5. 14 sts.
  4. Rounds 7 to 18: Knit.
  5. Round 19: K2tog, K10, SSK. 12 sts.
  6. Rounds 20 to 26: Knit.

Stuff the lower half only. Flatten the top opening and sew closed. Attach the arms angled slightly downward and a little forward so the finished bunny looks relaxed, as in the image.

Underbody Finishing and Posture

Before dressing the bunny, check the posture from the front and side. The feet should sit flat, the legs should be parallel, and the head should be centered over the torso.

If needed, run a hidden support thread from one shoulder through the body to the other shoulder. This helps keep the upper body stable under the cardigan and hat.

Skirt

The skirt in the image is softly gathered and falls to just below the cardigan. It begins at the waist and widens gradually. The hem carries large rounded snowball trim.

  1. CO 56 sts in oatmeal beige and join in the round.
  2. Rounds 1 to 4: K1, P1 rib.
  3. Round 5: Increase evenly to 72 sts.
  4. Rounds 6 to 10: Knit.
  5. Round 11: K8, M1R, rep around. 81 sts.
  6. Rounds 12 to 18: Knit.
  7. Round 19: K9, M1R, rep around. 90 sts.
  8. Rounds 20 to 30: Knit.

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The skirt should look full but not dramatic. If you want more volume, add one more increase round. Keep the waist neat so the cardigan still closes properly above it.

Hem Band

  1. Rounds 31 to 33: Purl all sts for a soft turning ridge look.
  2. Round 34: Knit.

Snowball Trim

For the raised round trim, work small stuffed bobbles separately and sew them on. This matches the image better than knitted bobbles worked into the hem.

  • Knit 14 to 16 tiny spheres in ivory.
  • For each sphere: CO 6 sts on DPNs, knit 1 round.
  • Increase to 12 sts by Kfb into each stitch.
  • Knit 3 rounds.
  • K2tog around to 6 sts.
  • Add a pinch of stuffing and draw closed.

Sew the spheres evenly around the skirt hem. Each should touch lightly or sit with a tiny gap. This trim is a major visual feature, so space them carefully.

Cardigan

The cardigan is cropped, softly fitted, and decorated with dense raised snowball clusters on both lower fronts. The sleeves are slim. The center front has a neat vertical finishing band.

Knit the cardigan flat from the lower edge upward in one piece to the armholes, then separate for fronts and back. Pick up sleeves later.

Lower Body of Cardigan

  1. CO 52 sts in oatmeal beige.
  2. Rows 1 to 4: K1, P1 rib.
  3. Rows 5 to 18: stockinette, keeping first and last 3 sts in garter for front edges.

Snowball Cluster Panels

Make 10 to 12 ivory mini balls like the skirt trim, but slightly smaller. Sew 5 to 6 onto each lower front in clustered floral mounds. Place them after the cardigan is finished for best control.

Shape Fronts and Back

  1. Row 19: K12 for left front, BO 4, K20 for back, BO 4, K12 for right front.
  2. Work each section separately.

Back:

  1. Work 12 rows stockinette.
  2. Next RS row: K2, K2tog, knit to last 4 sts, SSK, K2.
  3. Work 3 more rows.
  4. BO 16 center sts for neck, then finish each shoulder separately over 2 sts each with 1 neck-edge decrease.

Left front:

  1. Work 8 rows even.
  2. Begin neck shaping at front edge: decrease 1 st every RS row 5 times.
  3. Continue until back height matches.
  4. BO shoulder sts.

Right front:

  1. Work to match left front, reversing shaping.

Sleeves

Pick up 28 sts around each armhole.

  1. Knit 4 rounds.
  2. Decrease 2 sts evenly.
  3. Knit 5 rounds.
  4. Decrease 2 sts evenly.
  5. Knit 5 rounds.
  6. Work 4 rounds K1, P1 rib.
  7. BO loosely.

Front Band

Pick up stitches evenly along both fronts and neckline. Work 3 rows in garter or narrow rib, then BO. Sew the tiny ivory cluster balls to the lower front edges, arranging them in curved mounds that mirror each other.

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The cardigan should close near the neck and open slightly at the lower front, just like the image. Use one hidden snap if needed.

Hat

The hat is broad, soft, and shallow-crowned, with a flowered band and a brim that dips gently over the ears. This piece defines the whole look, so shape it carefully.

Crown Top

  1. CO 8 sts in oatmeal beige and join in the round.
  2. Round 1: Kfb around. 16 sts.
  3. Round 2: Knit.
  4. Round 3: K1, Kfb around. 24 sts.
  5. Round 4: Knit.
  6. Round 5: K2, Kfb around. 32 sts.
  7. Continue increasing in this way every other round until 72 sts.

Knit 10 rounds even. The crown should be rounded, not tall. If it starts looking deep, stop early. The hat must sit low and wide, not high like a bucket hat.

Brim Expansion

  1. Next round: K8, M1R around. 81 sts.
  2. Knit 3 rounds.
  3. Next round: K9, M1R around. 90 sts.
  4. Knit 3 rounds.
  5. Next round: K10, M1R around. 99 sts.
  6. Knit 4 rounds.

Work 2 rounds in garter by alternating knit and purl rounds if knitting in the round. BO loosely, or use IBO for a polished edge. Lightly steam the brim so it curves downward softly.

Hat Flowers

Knit 9 to 11 ivory snowball beads. Use the same tiny stuffed spheres as on the skirt, but keep them medium sized. Sew them around the base of the crown in clustered groups.

Arrange the clusters more heavily at the front and sides, leaving the back slightly lighter. This placement helps the brim drape neatly over the ears and matches the visual balance of the image.

Floral Tote Bag

The tote is rectangular with a flat base, short soft sides, and two rounded handles. The front is decorated with white blossoms and green leaves.

Bag Body

  1. CO 18 sts in oatmeal beige.
  2. Knit flat in stockinette for 22 rows.
  3. Make a second identical panel.
  4. For side strip, CO 8 sts and knit 56 rows in garter.

Sew the long strip around the first panel, then attach the second panel. Insert a light cardboard base if you want the bag to stand better.

Handles

  1. For each handle, make a 4-stitch i-cord about 7 inches long.
  2. Shape into a soft arch and sew securely to the inside upper edge.

Bag Flowers

  • Make 7 to 9 tiny ivory balls.
  • Group several into one main blossom cluster.
  • Add two or three leaf shapes in moss green.

For leaves, CO 3 sts. Work Kfb at both inner edges over a few rows, then decrease back to a point. Sew the flowers and leaves to the front lower-left area of the bag, matching the image.

Teacup and Saucer

The cup is tiny and cylindrical with a small handle. The saucer is shallow and flat. Keep this accessory simple and neat.

Cup

  1. CO 8 sts in ivory and join in the round.
  2. Knit 5 rounds.
  3. Change to cocoa brown for 1 round to suggest tea or coffee.
  4. Change back to ivory and BO.

Stuff very lightly or leave empty. For the handle, make a short 3-stitch i-cord, curve it, and sew to the side.

Saucer

  1. CO 6 sts in ivory and join.
  2. Increase evenly to 18 sts over 3 rounds.
  3. Knit 1 round, then BO.

Flatten with a fingertip and sew the cup to the center if you prefer a fixed set.

Pastry

The pastry resembles a small tart or cake with a tan top and pale cream lower layer. It sits on a small saucer beside the cup.

  1. CO 6 sts in cream and join.
  2. Increase evenly to 18 sts.
  3. Knit 3 rounds.
  4. Change to tan and knit 2 rounds.
  5. K2tog around to 9 sts.
  6. Add a pinch of stuffing and draw closed.

Make a second very flat ivory circle for the pastry plate and sew the pastry on top.

Bouquet

The bouquet is small and rounded with ivory viburnum-like heads and short green stems gathered together. It should look plump and compact.

  • Make 3 or 4 small flower heads from tiny stuffed ivory balls sewn in clusters.
  • Attach each cluster to a short knitted or wrapped green stem.
  • Bind the stems together and add two small leaves.

Keep the bouquet low and hand-sized so it does not overpower the bunny.

Mini Bear

The companion bear is small, seated, and dressed in a soft pink ruffled outfit with its own floppy hat. The face is simple and warm, with a tiny dark nose and close-set eyes.

Bear Body and Head

You may knit the mini bear as one piece from legs to head for smoother scale. Use beige-brown yarn and 2.25 mm or 2.5 mm needles.

  1. Make two tiny legs with 8 sts each in the round, knit 10 rounds.
  2. Join legs with 2 sts between each section. 20 sts total.
  3. Knit 8 rounds for torso.
  4. Decrease to 16 sts for upper body, knit 4 rounds.
  5. Increase to 24 sts for head, knit 8 rounds.
  6. Decrease gradually and close.

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Stuff lightly but enough to hold shape. The mini bear should sit naturally with a slightly larger head compared to body.

Bear Arms and Ears

  • Arms: CO 6 sts each, knit 10 rounds, stuff lightly, flatten and sew.
  • Ears: make two tiny half-circles or gathered circles and sew to the head top.

Bear Face

Embroider two small dark eyes. Add a tiny triangular or rounded nose in black-brown thread, then a short vertical mouth line. Keep the expression sweet and minimal.

Bear Dress

The dress is blush pink with a full skirt and frilled shoulder edges.

  1. CO 24 sts and join at waist.
  2. Work 2 rounds rib.
  3. Increase evenly to 36 sts.
  4. Knit 8 rounds.
  5. Purl 1 round.
  6. Knit 2 rounds and BO loosely.

For shoulder ruffles, pick up stitches around each arm opening area and work 2 short rows with a loose BO. Dress the bear so the skirt flares outward while seated.

Bear Hat

Knit a miniature version of the bunny hat with a shallow crown and soft brim. Keep it simple, in blush pink, with no heavy trimming.

Assembly

  1. Sew the bunny ears to the head first.
  2. Attach the arms evenly at the shoulder line.
  3. Dress the bunny in the skirt.
  4. Add the cardigan and fasten lightly near the top.
  5. Place the hat so the brim angles down over the ears.
  6. Sew or tack the hat in two or three hidden places so it stays centered.
  7. Arrange the accessories around the bunny for display.

Check the silhouette from the front. The cardigan fronts should frame the skirt. The hat brim should sit low but not cover the eyes. The ears should remain visible beneath the brim on both sides.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Facial placement matters more than heavy embroidery. Keep the eyes small, evenly spaced, and slightly above the nose line. The nose should be narrow and delicate. A bulky face will change the mood completely, so keep every stitch refined.

Secure every accessory firmly if the piece is for display. If the set is intended for gentle play, reinforce the hat, bag handles, mini flowers, and all tiny trims with extra sewing passes.

Care Notes

  • Spot clean whenever possible.
  • Use cool water and mild soap.
  • Press out moisture with a towel, never wring.
  • Reshape the hat brim, ears, skirt, and cardigan while damp.
  • Dry flat away from direct sun.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

  • Is the head centered and firmly stuffed?
  • Do both ears hang at matching height?
  • Are the cardigan flower clusters balanced on both sides?
  • Is the skirt hem trim evenly spaced?
  • Does the hat brim sit low and wide?
  • Are the bag flowers, cup, pastry, bouquet, and mini bear all scaled neatly?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the set in a dry place with clean airflow. Avoid hanging the bunny by the hat or ears. If displaying long term, dust gently with a soft dry brush.

For heirloom storage, wrap each accessory separately in acid-free tissue. Keep dark fabrics away from the ivory flowers so color transfer does not occur. Never machine wash the set, especially with the stuffed trims and shaped hat brim.

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