Gingham Picnic Darling Bunny – Knitting

This sweet heirloom-style bunny is designed to look like a collectible boutique rabbit doll with a soft countryside mood. The finished set includes the bunny, pink gingham dress, matching brimmed hat, Mary Jane shoes, a tiny flower basket with pink cloth, and a dressed duckling friend.

The overall look is polished enough for display, nursery décor, handmade gift listings, spring market prep, and search-friendly phrases like knitted bunny doll, stuffed rabbit toy, heirloom knit toy, handmade nursery gift, and collectible spring rabbit. Every part is shaped to match the photo closely while staying approachable for patient beginners.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This design is made as a fully knit soft toy with sewn assembly. The bunny has a rounded head, long relaxed ears, a slim neck, a softly stuffed torso, gently bent seated legs, narrow arms, and a full checked dress with puff sleeves and a ruffled eyelet hem.

The proportions matter in this design. The head is large and rounded, the ears are long and narrow, the body is slightly smaller than the head, and the legs are long enough to hang below the dress. The arms are slim and set at a low shoulder angle so the rabbit sits naturally.

The pink gingham effect is built with small checks that read clearly from a distance. You may work the checks with stranded colorwork if you are comfortable managing floats, or with duplicate stitch over a pale pink base for neat control. Duplicate stitch is the easiest way to match the pictured finish.

The accessories are important to the full look. Do not skip the basket liner, flowers, duck cardigan, duck bonnet ties, or the subtle shaping of the hat brim. These details turn the project from a simple toy into the exact picnic-style scene shown.

Finished Size

• Bunny height, seated: about 14 inches from top of hat to bottom of feet
• Bunny body without hat: about 12 1/2 inches
• Duckling height: about 3 1/4 inches
• Basket height: about 2 inches including handle
• Dress length from shoulder to hem: about 5 inches

Materials

• Sport weight yarn in cream, pale blush pink, soft medium pink, tan, light brown, duck yellow, denim blue, and white
• A very small amount of embroidery floss or yarn in dark brown or black for eyes
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Double-pointed needles or circular needles for small circumferences
• US 2 / 2.75 mm needles for toy pieces
• US 3 / 3.25 mm needles for dress and hat if you want a slightly softer drape
• Toy stuffing
• Thin craft wire optional for basket handle stability
• Small amount of pink gingham fabric or knit-look cloth for basket liner

Suggested Yarn Palette

• Cream: bunny head, ears, arms, legs
• Pale blush pink: dress base, hat base
• White: gingham checks and daisies
• Soft medium pink: dress waist texture, hat band area, flower centers if desired
• Tan: basket body, bunny shoes
• Light brown: duck skirt
• Duck yellow: duck head, wings, feet, beak
• Denim blue: duck cardigan

Gauge

32 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette on US 2 / 2.75 mm needles after light blocking. Gauge is important because the toy pieces must be dense enough to hold stuffing cleanly. If your stitches are loose, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1L = make 1 left
• m1R = make 1 right
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on

📌Thank you for reading the article

Design Notes

The bunny is made in separate pieces for the cleanest shaping: head, body, two ears, two arms, two legs, shoes, dress, and hat. This keeps the silhouette very close to the reference image. The duckling and basket are also worked separately and attached only after finishing.

The face is intentionally minimal. The eyes are tiny vertical embroidered ovals, widely spaced. The nose is a small stitched triangle with a short center line underneath. Avoid oversized safety eyes or a wide smile, because they change the expression too much.

The dress is worn permanently in the sample look. You may tack it lightly at the shoulders and waist after dressing the bunny. The duck cardigan may also be stitched closed invisibly for a tidy display piece.

Bunny Head

Using cream and US 2 needles, CO 12 sts evenly across 3 or 4 double-pointed needles. Join to work in the round.

1. Round 1: Knit.
2. Round 2: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
3. Round 3: Knit.
4. Round 4: K1, kfb around. 36 sts.
5. Round 5: Knit.
6. Round 6: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Round 7: Knit.
8. Round 8: K3, kfb around. 60 sts.
9. Rounds 9-24: Knit 16 rounds even.

Begin narrowing for the lower face and neck. This shaping creates the slightly fuller cheeks visible in the image, with a softer transition into the muzzle area.

1. Round 25: K8, k2tog around. 54 sts.
2. Round 26: Knit.
3. Round 27: K7, k2tog around. 48 sts.
4. Round 28: Knit.
5. Round 29: K6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
6. Round 30: Knit.
7. Round 31: K5, k2tog around. 36 sts.

Stuff the head firmly, shaping it into a round ball with a very gentle flattening at the lower front where the nose will sit. Do not overstuff the neck opening.

1. Round 32: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
2. Round 33: Knit.
3. Round 34: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
4. Rounds 35-38: Knit 4 rounds for neck.

Leave stitches live on waste yarn if you want to graft to the body, or BO loosely. The photographed bunny has a soft neck, so a sewn join works well and allows you to angle the head slightly forward.

Bunny Ears Make 2

Each ear is long, slim, and softly tapered, with no stiff lining. They should hang down past the shoulders and frame the dress bodice. Use cream and work flat for an easy seamed edge that helps the ears keep their shape.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 RS: Knit.
3. Row 2 WS: Purl.
4. Row 3: K1, m1L, knit to last stitch, m1R, k1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: Purl.
6. Row 5: Knit.
7. Row 6: Purl.
8. Rep Rows 5-6 until ear measures 4 inches.

Now taper gently toward the tip.

1. Next RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
2. WS: Purl.
3. Rep these 2 rows once more. 8 sts.
4. Next RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
5. WS: Purl.
6. Next RS: Ssk, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
7. WS: Purl.
8. Next RS: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
9. Cut yarn and pull through.

Sew side edges together with a neat mattress seam, leaving the ear flat rather than stuffed. Lightly steam if needed. Fold the lower ear slightly before attaching so each ear falls forward the way it does in the image.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Bunny Body

Using cream, CO 18 sts and join in the round.

1. Round 1: Knit.
2. Round 2: Kfb in every st. 36 sts.
3. Round 3: Knit.
4. Round 4: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
5. Rounds 5-12: Knit.

The upper torso of the bunny is narrower than the lower body because the dress adds volume. Shape the waist with subtle decreases.

1. Round 13: K6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
2. Rounds 14-16: Knit.
3. Round 17: K5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
4. Rounds 18-22: Knit.

Stuff the body firmly in the lower section and a little softer near the top. A slightly squishy torso helps the seated posture look natural under the dress.

1. Round 23: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
2. Rounds 24-26: Knit.
3. Round 27: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
4. Rounds 28-30: Knit.

BO loosely or leave live stitches to sew to the neck opening. The finished torso should be oval and modestly smaller than the head.

Bunny Arms Make 2

Using cream, CO 8 sts and join in the round.

1. Rounds 1-18: Knit.
2. Round 19: K2, k2tog around. 6 sts.
3. Rounds 20-22: Knit.

Stuff very lightly only in the upper half. Flatten the hand area so the arm lies naturally along the dress. BO and leave a tail for sewing. When attached, angle the arms downward and slightly forward.

Bunny Legs Make 2

The legs are long and narrow, with soft bend at the hip. They are mostly hidden by the dress but still visible below the hem, so keep them tidy and evenly stuffed.

Using cream, CO 10 sts and join in the round.

1. Rounds 1-8: Knit.
2. Round 9: K3, kfb around. 12 sts.
3. Rounds 10-22: Knit.

Stuff as you work. The leg should be slim, not chunky. BO loosely, flatten the upper opening, and set aside.

Bunny Shoes Make 2

The shoes are stitched over the lower foot section and finished with a Mary Jane strap line. They should appear shallow and neat, not bulky. Use tan yarn and work as small shoe covers.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work in stockinette, beginning with a knit row.
3. Row 7 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 8 WS: Purl.
5. Row 9: Repeat decrease row. 8 sts.
6. Row 10: Purl.

Sew each shoe piece around the lower foot of the leg, leaving the heel and sole smooth. Add a tiny horizontal strap near the ankle with one embroidered line of tan yarn. Add a small white edge at the sole if desired to mimic the pale trim in the image.

Dress Bodice and Skirt

The dress is the key visual element. It has puff sleeves, a fitted checked bodice, a textured waist panel, a full checked skirt, and a soft eyelet ruffle at the hem. Use pale blush pink as the base and white for the check pattern.

For the neatest result, knit the dress base first, then add the gingham blocks with duplicate stitch. Each check should be small and even, creating a grid of pale pink and white squares.

Bodice

Using pale blush pink and US 3 needles, CO 48 sts. Work flat from lower bodice upward if you prefer a back seam, or work in the round and split at the back for dressing. The sample below is worked flat for easy dressing.

1. Rows 1-8: Stockinette, keeping 2 edge stitches in garter for seaming.
2. Rows 9-10: Purl all for a subtle transition line.
3. Rows 11-20: Stockinette.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Add duplicate stitch checks over Rows 1-20 in a regular grid. Make each white block 2 stitches wide by 2 rows tall, with 2 pink stitches between blocks horizontally and vertically. Stagger the rows so the pattern reads as even gingham.

Shape armholes.

1. Row 21 RS: BO 3 sts, knit to end.
2. Row 22 WS: BO 3 sts, purl to end. 42 sts.
3. Rows 23-26: Work even.

Shape neckline and shoulders.

1. Row 27 RS: K13, BO 16, knit to end.
2. Work each side separately.
3. Next neckline row: BO 2 sts once.
4. Work 2 rows even.
5. BO remaining shoulder sts.

Make a second identical bodice section if you want a fully seamed dress, or adapt the back opening with a slit and ties. Sew shoulders first.

Puff Sleeves Make 2

Using pale blush pink, CO 24 sts.

1. Row 1 RS: Knit.
2. Row 2 WS: Purl.
3. Row 3 RS: K1, kfb across to last stitch, k1. 46 sts approximately. The fullness makes the puff shape.
4. Rows 4-9: Stockinette.
5. Row 10 WS: Purl.

Add duplicate stitch white checks in the same 2-by-2 rhythm used on the bodice. Gather the top and lower edge lightly when sewing into the armhole so the sleeve sits rounded rather than flat.

Waist Band

The band in the image looks slightly more textured and darker than the rest of the dress. Using soft medium pink, pick up stitches around the lower bodice edge or knit a separate strip 6 rows tall.

Work 6 rows in seed stitch or a simple knit-purl texture. This creates the gentle gathered waistband seen in the photo. Sew it to the bodice and then attach the skirt beneath it.

Skirt

Using pale blush pink, CO 96 sts if working flat, or 192 sts around if working fully in the round after seaming. The skirt should be full, but not stiff. It needs enough volume to drape over the seated legs.

1. Rows/Rounds 1-18: Stockinette.

Add the white gingham blocks with duplicate stitch in the same spacing used on the bodice. Keep the checks aligned vertically from waist to hem. This small detail helps the dress look professionally planned.

For the lower ruffle, switch to a slightly looser tension if desired.

1. Next row/round: K3, kfb across. Increase evenly for a soft flare.
2. Work 6 rows stockinette.
3. Eyelet row RS: K2tog, yo across.
4. Work 4 more rows stockinette.
5. BO loosely.

Sew the skirt to the waistband, then seam the dress. Try it on the bunny before final tacking. The hem should fall just above the ankles, with the ruffle turning outward slightly.

Hat

The hat is a shallow cloche with a gentle brim and the same pink-and-white checked motif. It should sit low on the forehead and allow the ears to fall from underneath the sides.

Using pale blush pink and US 3 needles, CO 12 sts and join in the round.

1. Round 1: Knit.
2. Round 2: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
3. Round 3: Knit.
4. Round 4: K1, kfb around. 36 sts.
5. Round 5: Knit.
6. Round 6: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Round 7: Knit.
8. Round 8: K3, kfb around. 60 sts.
9. Rounds 9-16: Knit even.

Add duplicate stitch white checks over Rounds 5-16. Keep the top centered and neat. The checks should appear slightly rounded due to the hat shaping, just like in the image.

Shape the brim.

1. Round 17: K4, kfb around. 72 sts.
2. Rounds 18-22: Knit.
3. Round 23: Purl all for a turning ridge.
4. Rounds 24-26: Knit.
5. BO loosely.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Lightly steam and curve the brim downward. Tack the hat to the head only after both ears are attached and arranged.

Basket

The basket is small and rounded with a narrow handle. Use tan yarn and a firm gauge. A little stuffing or a cardboard circle in the base will help it hold shape.

1. CO 6 sts and join in the round.
2. Round 1: Kfb in every st. 12 sts.
3. Round 2: Knit.
4. Round 3: K1, kfb around. 18 sts.
5. Round 4: Knit.
6. Round 5: K2, kfb around. 24 sts.
7. Rounds 6-10: Knit.
8. Round 11: Purl all for side base definition.
9. Rounds 12-18: Knit.
10. BO loosely.

For the handle, knit an i-cord 16 rows long on 3 stitches. Insert thin craft wire if desired. Sew each end inside the basket rim. Add a tiny folded pink checked cloth draped over one side.

Flowers

Make 5 or 6 tiny daisies. Using white, CO 4 sts, knit one short petal strip, and gather into a simple flower, or embroider lazy daisy petals directly onto a stuffed nub. Add yellow French-knot centers if desired. Cluster them low in the basket.

Duckling Head and Body

The duckling is tiny, rounded, and slightly pear-shaped. It wears a cream bonnet, blue cardigan, and brown skirt. Its expression is simple and sweet so it complements the bunny rather than drawing too much attention.

Using duck yellow, CO 6 sts and join.

1. Round 1: Kfb in every st. 12 sts.
2. Round 2: Knit.
3. Round 3: K1, kfb around. 18 sts.
4. Rounds 4-8: Knit.
5. Round 9: K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
6. Rounds 10-12: Knit.

Stuff lightly. Continue for lower body.

1. Round 13: K1, kfb around. 18 sts.
2. Rounds 14-17: Knit.
3. Round 18: K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
4. Round 19: Knit.
5. Round 20: K2tog around. 6 sts.

Finish stuffing and close. Embroider tiny black eyes. Add a small orange-yellow beak with horizontal satin stitches.

Duckling Wings Make 2

Using duck yellow, CO 6 sts.

1. Rows 1-4: Stockinette.
2. Row 5: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Row 7: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.

Fasten off. Sew to sides.

Duckling Feet Make 2

Using duck yellow, CO 4 sts. Work 2 rows in garter and BO. Fold each lightly and sew at the base so the duck can sit upright against the bunny.

Duckling Skirt

Using light brown, CO 24 sts and join or work flat.

1. Rows/Rounds 1-6: Stockinette.
2. Row/Round 7: K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
3. Rows/Rounds 8-10: Stockinette.
4. BO loosely.

Place around the lower body and sew shut neatly at the back.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Duckling Cardigan

Using denim blue, CO 20 sts.

1. Rows 1-2: Garter stitch.
2. Rows 3-8: Stockinette with 2 edge stitches in garter.
3. Row 9: K4, BO 12, k4.
4. Row 10: P4, CO 12, p4.
5. Rows 11-14: Stockinette with garter edges.
6. Rows 15-16: Garter stitch.
7. BO.

Fold around the duck body and seam sleeves lightly underneath. The cardigan should look open at the front, with short sleeves and a cropped fit.

Duckling Bonnet

Using cream, CO 18 sts.

1. Rows 1-8: Stockinette.
2. Row 9 RS: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. 16 sts.
3. Row 10 WS: Purl.
4. Rep Rows 9-10 until 8 sts remain.
5. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull to shape the crown.

Sew bonnet seam, place on duckling head, and add two short cream ties under the beak.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body with the chin angled very slightly downward. Attach ears high on the sides of the head, then tack them so they fall straight down. Sew arms low at the upper torso and legs at the lower body with a forward-facing seated angle.

Dress the bunny, then position the hat low on the forehead. Embroider two small vertical eyes in dark brown. Add a tiny triangular nose in matching brown and a short center line below it. Attach the basket to one hand and place the duckling close to the other side.

Care Notes

• Display use is best for preserving the exact shape.
• If gifting to a child, sew every accessory firmly and avoid removable small parts.
• Keep the hat and duck bonnet lightly tacked in place if the set is for decoration.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Bunny head is round and slightly larger than body
• Ears are long, flat, and hang below shoulders
• Dress has small white gingham blocks, puff sleeves, textured waist, and eyelet ruffle
• Hat matches the dress and has a soft curved brim
• Basket includes pink cloth and white flowers
• Duckling has blue cardigan, brown skirt, cream bonnet, and yellow feet

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with a barely damp cloth and mild soap. Do not soak the toy unless all parts are firmly attached and colorfast. Reshape while damp and air dry flat away from direct heat or sun.

For long-term storage, wrap the set in clean tissue and keep it in a dry box. Avoid hanging by the ears or storing under heavy objects. If needed, use a little fresh stuffing through a hidden seam to restore shape after display.