Rainy-Day Capelet Bunny – Knitting

This sweet bunny set is designed to look like a collectible heirloom toy with a soft neutral palette, a scalloped rain bonnet, a tidy capelet, a simple dress, a tiny bag, a closed umbrella, a folded cloth, and a small turtle friend. If you love handmade stuffed animal knitting, woodland nursery décor, giftable bunny dolls, and boutique-style knitted toys for baby shower baskets or seasonal display, this project is a lovely choice. The finished set has the charm of a premium artisan plush, with delicate shaping and carefully balanced proportions that make it especially appealing for knit toy lovers searching for a knitted bunny doll set, nursery rabbit décor, or handmade bunny gift ideas.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design creates the full scene shown in the photo: one standing bunny doll, one scalloped bonnet, one short capelet with two front buttons, one cream dress with small raindrop motifs, one pair of blue shoes, one tiny shoulder bag, one closed umbrella with curved handle, one folded cloth, and one small turtle companion.

The overall look depends on gentle shaping and neat finishing. The bunny has a large rounded head, a small compact body, short legs, softly stuffed arms, long drooping ears, tiny black eyes, and a very small stitched nose and mouth. The outfit is understated and polished, with muted gray-blue and warm cream shades.

The finished bunny stands at about 9 to 10 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including bonnet height. The turtle is about 2 inches long. The umbrella is about 4 inches long. The bag sits at hip level and should look softly structured, not stiff.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light fingering or light sport weight wool or wool-blend in warm cream
• Bonnet and capelet yarn: sport weight in weathered medium gray
• Dress contrast edging and shoes: soft dusty blue sport weight
• Turtle shell yarn: dusty blue-gray sport weight
• Turtle body yarn: pale sage or muted green-gray sport weight
• Bag yarn: same gray as bonnet and capelet
• Umbrella yarn: taupe-gray for canopy and medium wood-tone or beige for handle tip if desired
• Folded cloth yarn: off-white with a tiny blue edge stripe
• Needles: US 1.5 to US 2.5, depending on your yarn and tension
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop setup for small circumferences
• Tapestry needle for seaming and finishing
• Locking stitch markers
• Stuffing: fine polyester toy stuffing
• Eyes: 4 mm black safety eyes or embroidered French-knot style eyes
• Buttons: 2 tiny gray buttons for the capelet
• Floral wire or craft wire: optional, for a gently shaped umbrella shaft
• Thin cardboard or plastic strip: optional, to stabilize the umbrella core

Gauge and Fabric Notes

The knitted fabric should be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. For the bunny body and head, aim for a dense, smooth stockinette. For garments and accessories, keep stitches even and tidy.

A useful gauge is about 8 to 9 stitches per inch in stockinette using your chosen yarn and needles. Exact gauge matters less than scale, firmness, and proportion. If your bunny looks too loose and floppy, go down a needle size. If the garment pieces feel stiff and board-like, go up a size for those pieces only.

The toy in the image has very fine stitch definition. That look is best achieved with wool yarn, even tension, and a firm stuffing level that supports shaping without stretching the fabric.

Finished Proportions

• Head: noticeably larger than the torso, about half of total doll height
• Body: short and softly oval
• Legs: short, straight, and close together
• Arms: simple tubes with slight taper, ending around upper thigh level
• Ears: long, flat, and drooping down from beneath bonnet edge
• Capelet: cropped and shoulder-covering, ending above waist
• Bonnet: deep enough to sit low on the forehead, with a wavy brim
• Shoes: round-toe Mary Jane style with strap detail

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• m1l = make 1 left
• m1r = make 1 right
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

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Bunny Legs

Make 2 in warm cream. Each leg is narrow, softly stuffed, and straight. They should appear as little columns under the dress hem, with only a small gap between them once attached to the body.

1. CO 12 sts and join for working in the round.
2. K 8 rounds.
3. Increase round: k1, m1r, k4, m1l, k1, m1r, k4, m1l. You now have 16 sts. This creates a subtle fullness near the upper foot and ankle without making the leg chunky.
4. K 6 rounds.
5. Shape upper leg: k2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk. You are back to 12 sts.
6. K 10 rounds.
7. Stuff lightly from foot to mid-leg. Leave upper portion less stuffed so the leg can sit naturally under the body.
8. Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Set aside.

The feet will be built separately as shoes worn over the lower portion. The visible cream leg should stay smooth and slim.

Lower Body and Torso

The torso is a compact pear-to-oval shape, narrower at the neck and fuller at the lower belly. The doll in the image has a modest stuffed-animal silhouette, not a long fashion-doll body.

1. Place both legs on needles with the inner-leg stitches facing each other.
2. Join by knitting across the first leg, CO 2 sts for the crotch bridge, knit across the second leg, CO 2 sts. You now have 28 sts.
3. K 3 rounds.
4. Increase round: k6, m1r, k2, m1l, k8, m1r, k2, m1l, k6. You now have 32 sts.
5. K 4 rounds.
6. Increase round: k7, m1r, k2, m1l, k10, m1r, k2, m1l, k7. You now have 36 sts.
7. K 8 rounds.
8. Stuff the lower body firmly, keeping the front smooth and the base balanced so the bunny can stand with support from the shoes.
9. Shape waist: round 1, k2tog, k14, ssk, k2tog, k14, ssk. You now have 32 sts.
10. K 2 rounds.
11. Next decrease round: k2tog, k12, ssk, k2tog, k12, ssk. You now have 28 sts.
12. K 4 rounds.
13. Shape upper chest: k7, k2tog, k3, ssk, k7, k2tog, k3, ssk. You now have 24 sts.
14. K 6 rounds.

The body should now look softly rounded with a small chest and no sharply defined waist. Keep stuffing even and smooth. Avoid a barrel shape.

Neck

The neck is short and sturdy. It should not be too thin, or the large head will wobble.

1. Work 2 rounds even on 24 sts.
2. Decrease round: k2tog, k8, ssk, k2tog, k8, ssk. You now have 20 sts.
3. K 3 rounds.
4. Stuff firmly.

Head

The head is the visual focus. It is rounded, full at the cheeks and crown, and slightly flatter at the face panel. The face should remain calm and simple, with a small centered nose and mouth.

1. From neck, increase evenly to 28 sts over 1 round.
2. K 1 round.
3. Increase round: k3, m1r across round. You now have 35 sts.
4. K 1 round.
5. Increase evenly to 42 sts.
6. K 4 rounds.
7. Increase evenly to 48 sts.
8. K 10 rounds.

At this point the head is broad enough for the face. Place the eyes before fully closing the head if using safety eyes. The eyes in the image are very small, black, and set wide apart. Position them about halfway down the face, slightly above the midpoint between crown and chin.

1. If using safety eyes, place them 8 to 10 sts apart, depending on your exact head size.
2. K 4 more rounds.
3. Begin crown shaping: round 1, k6, k2tog around. You now have 42 sts.
4. K 1 round.
5. Round 3, k5, k2tog around. You now have 36 sts.
6. K 1 round.
7. Round 5, k4, k2tog around. You now have 30 sts.
8. K 1 round.
9. Round 7, k3, k2tog around. You now have 24 sts.
10. Stuff firmly, especially cheeks, chin, and back crown.
11. Round 8, k2, k2tog around. You now have 18 sts.
12. Round 9, k1, k2tog around. You now have 12 sts.
13. Thread yarn through remaining sts and close tightly.

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Use the tail to sculpt the face very lightly if needed. A tiny horizontal pull across the lower face can create the soft muzzle area seen in the image. Do not over-sculpt.

Ears

Make 2 in warm cream. These ears are long, narrow, softly flattened, and attached low enough to droop beside the face. They are not overly wide and they do not stand upright.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work flat in stockinette with 2 edge garter sts if preferred for stability.
3. Rows 1 to 6: knit RS rows, purl WS rows.
4. Row 7: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
5. Row 8: purl.
6. Rep rows 7 and 8 until 6 sts remain.
7. Knit 2 rows even.
8. Row next: k1, ssk, k2tog, k1. You now have 4 sts.
9. Purl 1 row.
10. K2tog twice. BO.

Make a second matching ear. Steam lightly or shape by hand. Fold the lower edge very slightly before attaching, so the ear hangs with a soft inward curve. Attach each ear to the side of the head, a little behind the eye line, beginning near the crown-side seam line and allowing the ear to fall below the jaw.

Arms

Make 2 in warm cream. The arms are slim tubes with rounded ends and no pronounced hands. They hang straight down and sit just under the capelet.

1. CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. K 4 rounds.
3. Increase round: kfb, k4, kfb, k4. You now have 12 sts.
4. K 12 rounds.
5. Decrease round: k2tog, k4, ssk, k4. You now have 10 sts.
6. K 4 rounds.
7. Stuff lightly, mainly at lower half.
8. Flatten top opening and close with mattress-style graft or sewn seam.

Sew the arms to the upper side body so they emerge just below the capelet line and angle slightly inward. In the image, the arms rest close to the body, not held away from it.

Dress

The dress is a simple cream garment with a neat blue lower edge and scattered raindrop motifs on the front. It should fit close to the body and stop above the knees, leaving the blue shoes fully visible.

You may work the dress flat in one piece with a back seam, or in the round and then split for a back opening. The neatest miniature finish is a flat piece with a short back seam.

Dress Hem and Body

1. Using dusty blue, CO 40 sts.
2. K 2 rows in garter stitch.
3. Change to cream.
4. Work 2 rows stockinette.
5. Decrease row: k2, k2tog across to last 2 sts, k2. You now have 31 or 32 sts, depending on your edge method. Adjust to 32 sts for symmetry.
6. Work 12 rows stockinette.

Raindrop Motif Placement

The front of the dress shows small dark raindrop shapes arranged in a loose scattered pattern. These are best added afterward with duplicate stitch or tiny embroidered satin stitches using gray-blue yarn.

• Place 3 raindrops across the upper front skirt area.
• Place 4 raindrops across the middle front.
• Place 3 raindrops near the lower front, above the hem.
• Each raindrop should be about 2 rows tall and 1 stitch wide at the top, widening slightly in the center.
• Keep spacing uneven but balanced, just like a printed motif rather than a formal chart.

Upper Dress

1. Work 6 more rows stockinette after motif area if adding motifs later.
2. Shape armholes: BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
3. Decrease 1 st each side every RS row 2 times. You should have about 24 sts.
4. Work 6 rows even.
5. Shape neckline: work 8 sts, BO center 8 sts, work remaining 8 sts.
6. Work each side separately, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every RS row 2 times.
7. Work 2 rows even.
8. BO shoulders.

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Sew side and shoulder seams. The neckline should remain plain because the capelet sits on top and covers the upper portion. Slip the dress onto the bunny before final arm attachment if needed.

Blue Petticoat Hint

The image shows a small flash of blue beneath the cream dress. To capture that layered look, knit a very short underskirt strip.

1. Using dusty blue, CO 34 sts.
2. Work 4 rows garter stitch.
3. BO loosely.
4. Sew into a ring and tack just inside the lower edge of the dress so a narrow ruffle peeks out.

Shoes

The shoes are soft blue Mary Jane style slippers with a rounded toe and a horizontal strap effect. They should cover the lower foot area and sit snugly. Make 2.

1. Using dusty blue, pick up 12 sts around the lower foot area of one leg, or knit separately and sew on.
2. K 2 rounds.
3. Increase round: k1, m1r, k4, m1l, k1, m1r, k4, m1l. You now have 16 sts.
4. K 3 rounds.
5. Toe shaping: k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5. You now have 14 sts.
6. K 1 round.
7. Repeat toe shaping once more. You now have 12 sts.
8. K 2 rounds.
9. For strap detail, embroider or surface-chain a tiny horizontal band across the instep, leaving a little opening shape below it so the shoe reads as a Mary Jane.
10. BO and sew closed underneath if needed.

Stuff the shoes very lightly at the toe if they collapse. They should remain soft, not blocky.

Capelet

The capelet is one of the most important visual elements. It is gray, short, rounded over the shoulders, and finished with a scalloped lower edge. It closes in front with two tiny buttons. The front opening forms a narrow inverted V shape near the center.

Capelet Collar Section

1. Using gray, CO 34 sts.
2. Work flat.
3. Rows 1 to 4: k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2 on RS; repeat established edge pattern on WS so front edges stay neat.
4. Increase row RS: k2, m1r, work to last 2 sts, m1l, k2.
5. Work 1 WS row even.
6. Rep this increase pair 6 more times. You should have about 48 sts.
7. Work 6 rows even.

Capelet Body and Scalloped Edge

1. Work 4 rows garter stitch.
2. Scallop setup row RS: k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k4, rep from k2tog to ssk across, ending with k2.
3. WS row: knit.
4. Next RS row: knit.
5. BO knitwise on next row, not too tight.

This produces a softly wavy edge rather than deep lace points. The capelet in the image has a subtle scallop, not a dramatic one.

Button Bands

Pick up and knit 1 stitch for roughly every 2 rows along each front edge if you want a more polished finish. Work 2 rows garter. On one side, create two small button loops with yarn overs placed evenly. Sew on two tiny gray buttons so the capelet closes at the upper chest.

The finished capelet should sit just over the shoulders and upper arms, ending above the dress waistline. It should not be long enough to cover the hands.

Bonnet

The bonnet is a deep gray rain bonnet with a soft crown and an undulating brim. It sits low and frames the face closely, while allowing both ears to fall from beneath it. The brim waves outward at the sides and dips slightly in soft curves.

Bonnet Crown

1. Using gray, CO 12 sts onto double-pointed needles and join.
2. Round 1: k all.
3. Round 2: kfb in each st. You now have 24 sts.
4. Round 3: k all.
5. Round 4: k1, kfb around. You now have 36 sts.
6. Round 5: k all.
7. Round 6: k2, kfb around. You now have 48 sts.
8. K 10 rounds.

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Bonnet Depth

To make the bonnet sit deeper at the back of the head, work short rows or simply continue with a few extra back-and-forth rows over the back two-thirds of the stitches before shaping the brim.

1. Place markers to define front third and back two-thirds.
2. Work 4 short-row turns across the back section, adding 2 stitches more each pass.
3. Return to working across all stitches.

Bonnet Brim

1. Pick up or continue across the front edge if your bonnet was shaped flat at the opening. Aim for about 42 to 46 front-edge sts.
2. Work 3 rows garter stitch.
3. Increase row: k2, yo, k3, yo across, ending neatly. This adds softness and flare.
4. Work 3 rows garter.
5. Scallop row: k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk across.
6. Knit 2 rows.
7. BO loosely.

Once sewn and shaped, the brim should ripple gently around the face. The bonnet crown should be rounded, not pointed. Sew side edges neatly and tack bonnet to head if desired so it stays low and centered.

Tiny Shoulder Bag

The bag is a miniature gray handbag with a short strap. It hangs from the bunny’s left hand side and rests around hip level. The shape is softly rectangular with a rounded base.

1. Using gray, CO 10 sts.
2. Knit 2 rows garter.
3. Work 8 rows stockinette.
4. Increase row: k1, m1r, knit to last 1 st, m1l, k1. You now have 12 sts.
5. Work 4 rows even.
6. Knit 2 garter rows.
7. BO.

Make a second identical piece for back, or fold the piece in half if preferred. Sew side and bottom seams, leaving top open. Add a narrow I-cord or twisted cord strap about 5 inches long. Attach strap at upper side edges. Lightly stuff the bag or place a touch of batting so it keeps its shape.

Umbrella

The umbrella is closed, slim, and wrapped. It lies beside the bunny and has a curved handle. This piece adds storytelling detail, so the proportions matter. It should be long enough to read clearly as an umbrella but still miniature.

Umbrella Shaft

• Use a short piece of floral wire or sturdy cord about 4 inches long.
• Curve one end into a small hook for the handle.
• Wrap with beige or taupe yarn and secure with sewing thread if needed.

Umbrella Canopy

1. Using taupe-gray, CO 18 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in stockinette.
3. On the final RS row, create small decreases every 4 to 5 stitches so the piece tapers slightly.
4. BO.

Wrap this rectangle diagonally around the upper shaft to mimic a folded umbrella canopy. Stitch in place. Add several short vertical wrap stitches around the lower third of the canopy so it looks tied closed. Add a tiny point at the tip using a few extra wraps of yarn.

Folded Cloth

The small folded cloth under the umbrella is a tiny off-white square with a blue edge stripe. It looks like a folded hand towel or rain cloth.

1. Using off-white, CO 12 sts.
2. Knit 4 rows.
3. Change to blue and knit 1 row.
4. Change back to off-white and knit 3 rows.
5. BO.

Fold into a neat square or rectangle and tack one fold lightly so it stays in place for display.

Turtle Companion

The turtle is tiny, rounded, and friendly. The shell is dusty blue-gray and sits over a pale green body. The head peeks forward only slightly, and the legs are short little nubs. The shell shape is low and oval rather than tall and domed.

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Turtle Body Underside

1. Using pale sage, CO 6 sts on double-pointed needles.
2. Round 1: k all.
3. Round 2: kfb in each st. You now have 12 sts.
4. Round 3: k all.
5. Round 4: k1, kfb around. You now have 18 sts.
6. K 2 rounds.

Head and Tail Openings

On the next round, knit 4 sts for the head position, bind off 2, knit 8, bind off 2, knit remaining sts. On the next round, cast those stitches back on. This creates subtle position points for head and tail if you want more definition. You may also skip this and sew separate pieces on later.

Turtle Shell

1. Using dusty blue-gray, CO 6 sts.
2. Round 1: kfb in each st. You now have 12 sts.
3. Round 2: k all.
4. Round 3: k1, kfb around. You now have 18 sts.
5. Round 4: k2, kfb around. You now have 24 sts.
6. K 4 rounds.
7. Decrease round: k2, k2tog around. You now have 18 sts.
8. K 1 round.

Place a touch of stuffing under the shell so it remains gently rounded. Sew shell to body underside. The shell should overhang the body just slightly.

Turtle Head, Legs, and Tail

• Head: CO 6 sts in pale sage, work 5 rounds, stuff lightly, decrease to close, attach to front
• Legs: make 4 tiny stubs, each CO 4 sts, work 3 rounds, stuff barely, close and attach under shell corners
• Tail: a 3-stitch nub or a tiny embroidered point

Embroider a tiny black eye on the head. The turtle in the image is very understated, so keep features minimal.

Color Placement Notes

• The bunny body, head, ears, and arms are all warm cream.
• The bonnet, capelet, and bag are the same cool medium gray.
• The shoes and visible underskirt edge are dusty blue.
• The dress is cream with gray-blue raindrops.
• The turtle shell echoes the blue-gray family, tying the whole set together.
• The umbrella is taupe-gray, softer and warmer than the bonnet.

Finishing for an Accurate Look

The charm of this set comes from restraint. Keep all facial features tiny. Keep the stuffing smooth. Keep every accessory scaled down. Avoid oversized buttons, thick yarn, or dramatic embroidery.

The bonnet should not sit high on the head. The capelet should not flare too far outward. The dress should be plain and sweet, with only the small raindrop details as decoration. The turtle should be quiet and compact rather than cartoonish.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

• Sew head securely to neck with strong matching yarn.
• Attach ears low enough to droop beside the cheeks.
• Embroider a tiny inverted triangle nose in dark taupe or charcoal.
• Add a short vertical stitch below the nose, then two tiny angled stitches for the mouth.
• Sew arms close to the body and dress the bunny before securing the capelet.
• Fasten bonnet low over the forehead and lightly tack in place if needed.

Care Notes

• Handle gently because the accessories are miniature.
• Spot clean when possible.
• Keep away from rough play if using buttons or wire in the umbrella.
• Store flat or upright in a dust-free space.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head larger than torso
• Ears long and softly drooping
• Bonnet brim gently wavy
• Capelet ending above the waist
• Two buttons centered at front
• Dress has scattered raindrop motifs
• Blue shoes visible below hem
• Bag, umbrella, cloth, and turtle all scaled small

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a barely damp cloth for routine surface cleaning. For deeper care, gently blot with mild wool-safe soap and cool water, then air dry on a towel away from heat and direct sun. Do not twist, wring, or machine wash. If storing long term, wrap in clean tissue and keep in a breathable box to protect the shaping, colors, and fine finishing details.