Sailor Collar Sweetpea Bunny – Knitting

This sweet knitted bunny set is designed to capture the look of a collectible heirloom toy with a nautical outfit, matching beret, Mary Jane shoes, lifebuoy bag, tiny sailor bear, and a small anchor accent. If you love handmade bunny dolls, nursery decor, coastal stuffed animals, knitted toy gifts, and collectible rabbit dolls, this charming set is a beautiful project to make or to inspire your next handmade gift idea.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a seated bunny with a softly rounded head, long floppy ears, slim tube legs, gently weighted lower body, and narrow hanging arms. The outfit includes a dark navy dress with a textured center panel, a striped inset at the neck, a square sailor collar with red edging, a striped beret, matching shoes, and a circular lifebuoy purse.

The set in the image has a very balanced look. The head is slightly narrower than the widest skirt spread, the ears are long and soft, and the arms hang lower than the waist. The legs are slim and straight, ending in neat rounded feet. The face is minimal, with small stitched eyes and a centered nose and mouth.

The tiny sailor bear is important to the finished display. It is not an afterthought. Its proportions are compact and upright, with a round head, short ears, short arms, and a striped navy-and-cream sweater. The little red hat echoes the bunny’s nautical palette and ties both toys together visually.

This design is written for knitters who are comfortable with shaping, seaming, picking up stitches, and light embroidery. Beginners can still make it by taking each section slowly and following the finishing notes carefully. The result should feel polished, neat, and true to the image.

Finished Size

• Bunny from top of hat to bottom of feet: about 15 to 16 inches / 38 to 41 cm
• Bunny seated body without hat: about 13 inches / 33 cm
• Tiny bear: about 4 inches / 10 cm
• Lifebuoy purse diameter: about 2 inches / 5 cm
• Anchor accent: about 1 inch / 2.5 cm

These measurements assume a firm toy gauge and stuffing placed evenly but not overly hard. If your knitting is loose, the toy will grow taller and softer. If your knitting is very tight, the doll will be slightly smaller and more sculptural. Keep your tension consistent across all pieces.

Materials

• DK weight yarn in light beige for bunny body
• DK weight yarn in navy blue for dress, shoes, hat, purse details, and bear sweater
• DK weight yarn in cream or soft white for collar, hat stripes, neck stripes, purse details, and bear sweater stripes
• DK weight yarn in bright red for collar edging, hat accent, purse stripes, and tiny bear hat
• Small amount of gray yarn for tiny bear body
• Small amount of black or deep brown yarn for facial embroidery
• Pair of 2.75 mm knitting needles
• Set of double-pointed needles in 2.75 mm if you prefer knitting small tubes in the round
• Tapestry needle
• Toy stuffing
• Small amount of weighted filling or pellets in a fabric pouch for the bunny base if desired
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Thin card or felt scrap for stabilizing the purse if desired

Yarn Notes and Color Placement

The sample in the image uses a muted palette rather than stark primary colors. The navy is deep and rich, the cream is warm rather than bright white, and the red is clean but not neon. Choosing slightly softened shades will help your finished set look elegant and handmade instead of overly bold.

The bunny body is entirely light beige. The dress is mostly navy. The neck insert beneath the collar shows narrow cream and red striping. The sailor collar is cream with a red border. The beret is cream with navy stripes. The shoes are solid navy. The lifebuoy purse alternates cream, navy, and red sections.

The tiny bear is medium gray. Its sweater is striped cream and navy, while the tiny hat is red. Keep the tiny bear colors crisp so it reads clearly next to the bunny dress. A very dark gray bear may disappear visually, and a very pale gray may not match the image as well.

Gauge

28 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using 2.75 mm needles after light blocking.

Gauge is important here because the toy proportions depend on firm fabric. The stuffing should not show through. If your stitches spread apart when stretched gently, go down a needle size. A tight gauge also helps the face shaping hold cleanly and keeps the small accessories looking crisp.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• st st = stockinette stitch
• g st = garter stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
• inc = increase 1 stitch by your preferred neat method
• dec = decrease 1 stitch by your preferred neat method
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat

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Construction Notes

The bunny is made in separate pieces: head, body front, body back, ears, arms, legs, shoes, dress, collar, neck insert, beret, and purse. The head is slightly oval with a gentle muzzle shape formed during stuffing and embroidery. The body is simple but carefully proportioned so the dress sits correctly.

The dress is worked separately and sewn onto the bunny after the body is assembled. This gives the skirt better drape and allows the textured center panel to sit neatly. The collar is also separate and is stitched in place over the striped neck insert. That layered finish is essential for matching the image.

The tiny bear is made as a separate mini toy with its own sweater and hat. It should be small enough to sit beside the bunny’s skirt but large enough to remain recognizable. Do not enlarge the bear too much, or the main doll will lose the delicate scale relationship shown in the photo.

Bunny Head

Head Front

1. Using beige, CO 24 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 26 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 28 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. Row 6: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 30 sts.
8. Row 7: Purl.
9. Rows 8 to 24: Work in st st, ending with a WS row.
10. Row 25 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
11. Row 26: Purl.
12. Row 27: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 sts.
13. Row 28: Purl.
14. Row 29: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
15. Row 30: Purl.
16. Leave sts on waste yarn.

Head Back

Work exactly as for Head Front.

The finished head should be softly rounded rather than perfectly circular. The width is only slightly greater than the height of the lower face section, giving the bunny a refined toy-like expression. Avoid making the head too wide or the face will lose the gentle vertical character seen in the image.

Ears Make 2

1. Using beige, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 24: Work in st st.
7. Row 25 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
8. Row 26: Purl.
9. Row 27: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
10. Row 28: Purl.
11. Row 29: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
12. Row 30: Purl.
13. BO knitwise on RS.

Do not stuff the ears heavily. The ears in the image are soft and floppy, hanging down close to the sides of the head. A very light layer of stuffing or even no stuffing at all works best. If you prefer extra stability, place a narrow strip of batting inside only the upper half.

Arms Make 2

1. Using beige, CO 8 sts.
2. Work 22 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 23 RS: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
4. Row 24: Purl.
5. Row 25 RS: Knit.
6. BO.

Sew side seams, stuff lightly, and flatten slightly at the upper edge before attaching. The arms should be slim and relaxed, ending around the lower skirt area when sewn. They are not posed outward. Their quiet downward angle contributes a lot to the calm expression of the whole piece.

Legs Make 2

1. Using beige, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 26: Work in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. BO.

The legs are narrow straight tubes and should remain visually slim after stuffing. Do not overstuff. They need enough fill to hold shape but still look delicate. The feet will be added separately with shoes, which give the lower leg a cleaner finish and the slight rounded shape visible in the photo.

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Body

Body Front

1. Using beige, CO 26 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 28 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 30 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 20: Work in st st.
7. Row 21 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 28 sts.
8. Row 22: Purl.
9. Rows 23 to 28: Work in st st.
10. BO.

Body Back

Work exactly as for Body Front.

The body is compact and slightly pear-shaped, with the lower section a little wider than the chest. Because the dress covers most of it, the main goal is to create a seated base that supports the skirt and keeps the neck narrow enough for the sailor collar to sit cleanly.

Shoes Make 2

These navy shoes are important. They are not socks. They should look like simple Mary Jane slippers with a rounded toe and a narrow strap across the front of the ankle. Keep the shape neat and small so the feet remain proportional to the slim legs.

1. Using navy, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in g st.
3. Rows 5 to 10: Work in st st, beginning with a purl row.
4. Row 11 RS: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
5. Row 12: Purl.
6. Row 13: Knit.
7. BO.

Sew the back seam and gather the toe slightly. Slip onto the lower leg and stitch around the ankle edge. For the strap, use navy yarn to embroider or sew a narrow band across the front opening, placing it a little above the midpoint of the foot. This should resemble the photo closely.

Striped Neck Insert

This small piece shows between the bunny neck and the sailor collar. It gives the outfit a classic nautical look. In the image, the stripes are fine and mostly cream with a red line detail. Because the area is tiny, keep the stripes narrow and precise.

1. Using cream, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: Work in st st.
3. Rows 3 and 4: Using red, work in st st.
4. Rows 5 and 6: Using cream, work in st st.
5. Rows 7 and 8: Using cream, work in st st.
6. BO.

This piece should form a small rectangular bib-like insert. It sits under the collar at the upper chest only. If you want a slightly firmer finish, back it with a light scrap of fabric before sewing it to the bunny chest. Keep the visible portion centered and narrow.

Dress

The dress is the dominant visual element of the bunny. It is dark navy, with a textured central cable-like panel and a softly flared skirt. The hem has a gentle decorative edge. The dress should look roomy enough to sit naturally over the body without looking bulky or stiff.

Dress Front

1. Using navy, CO 40 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K3, p2, k2, p2, k24, p2, k2, p2, k3.
4. Row 3: P3, k2, p2, k2, p24, k2, p2, k2, p3.
5. Rep Rows 2 and 3 for 6 rows total to form a lightly decorative hem.
6. Next RS row: K all sts.
7. Work 8 rows in st st, but on each RS row maintain a simple central texture over the middle 8 sts as follows: Row A k to center 8 sts, k2, p4, k2, knit to end. Row B purl all WS rows.
8. Continue until piece measures about 5 inches / 12.5 cm from cast on edge.
9. Shape upper dress: Row RS: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk. 38 sts.
10. WS row: Purl.
11. Repeat these 2 rows 4 more times. 30 sts.
12. Work 4 rows even.
13. BO.

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Dress Back

Work as for Dress Front but without the center texture. Work plain st st after the hem detail. If you want the dress removable, split the upper back and add a small opening. For the cleanest look matching the image, sew the dress closed permanently after dressing the bunny.

The skirt should flare gently when the bunny is seated. If your hem curls too much, steam it lightly from a distance or add a simple blanket of hidden running stitches inside the hem to encourage the soft scalloped line seen in the image.

Sailor Collar

The collar is square and broad, lying over the shoulders and upper chest. In the image, it is cream with a red outline. The front opening is shallow, and the collar points extend outward rather than downward. This piece should frame the head and neck cleanly.

1. Using cream, CO 28 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in g st.
3. Next row RS: K6, BO 16 sts, knit to end.
4. Left side only: work 6 rows in g st on first 6 sts. BO.
5. Rejoin yarn to remaining 6 sts and work 6 rows in g st. BO.

Using red yarn, work a neat embroidered edge around the outer collar border and around the front opening. Use small backstitches or duplicate stitch so the red line is crisp. The border should be visible but not thick. It reads as trim, not a bold stripe.

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and slightly slouched toward one side. It sits low across the forehead and overlaps the top of one ear. The image shows a cream base with navy horizontal striping and a matching navy band at the lower section. Keep the shape shallow and tidy.

1. Using cream, CO 48 sts.
2. Join carefully for working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
3. Rounds 1 to 3: Knit.
4. Rounds 4 and 5: Using navy, knit.
5. Rounds 6 and 7: Using cream, knit.
6. Rounds 8 and 9: Using navy, knit.
7. Rounds 10 to 16: Using cream, knit.
8. Round 17: K6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
9. Round 18: Knit.
10. Round 19: K5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
11. Round 20: Knit.
12. Round 21: K4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
13. Round 22: Knit.
14. Round 23: K3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
15. Round 24: K2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
16. Round 25: K1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
17. Break yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.

If working flat, seam invisibly. Shape the beret with your hands and tack it to the bunny head so it sits at a slight diagonal. The lower edge should cover part of the forehead and one ear root. This asymmetrical placement matters for matching the image.

Lifebuoy Purse

The purse is circular and hangs on a navy cord across the body. It rests at the bunny’s hip rather than centered at the waist. The ring itself is striped in navy, cream, and red, like a miniature life preserver. It should be thick enough to hold shape but still look soft.

1. Using cream, CO 8 sts.
2. Work i-cord for 4 inches / 10 cm, changing colors in short sections to create alternating cream, navy, red, cream, navy, red bands.
3. Bind off and sew the ends together to form a ring.

If you do not want to use i-cord, knit a narrow strip 4 sts wide in stockinette, then sew and lightly stuff it before forming a ring. Add a navy cord long enough to cross from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Stitch the cord firmly behind the ring and tack it to the dress.

Tiny Sailor Bear

This miniature companion should look sweet but simple. Its head is round, its body is short, and the sweater covers most of the torso. The face is tiny and centered. Keep the whole bear modest in detail so it supports the bunny without competing for attention.

Bear Head Make 2

1. Using gray, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1 WS: Purl.
3. Row 2 RS: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 14 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 16 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 12: Work in st st.
7. Row 13 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
8. Row 14: Purl.
9. Row 15 RS: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
10. BO.

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Bear Ears Make 2

1. Using gray, CO 4 sts.
2. Knit 2 rows.
3. Row 3: K1, kfb, k2. 5 sts.
4. Row 4: Knit.
5. BO.

Bear Body

1. Using gray, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: Work in st st.
3. Row 11 RS: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
4. Rows 12 and 13: Work even.
5. BO.

Bear Arms Make 2

1. Using gray, CO 5 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Bear Legs Make 2

1. Using gray, CO 5 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in st st.
3. BO.

Bear Sweater

The sweater should cover most of the body and create the striped look seen in the image. Keep the stripes horizontal and narrow.

1. Using navy, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 and 2: Knit.
3. Rows 3 and 4: Using cream, knit.
4. Rows 5 and 6: Using navy, knit.
5. Rows 7 and 8: Using cream, knit.
6. Rows 9 and 10: Using navy, knit.
7. BO.

Wrap around the bear body and seam at the back. Leave the lower edge slightly flared so the bear sits neatly beside the bunny. Add two tiny openings or simply stitch the arms over the sweater. The visual effect matters more than strict tailoring at this scale.

Bear Hat

1. Using red, CO 10 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in st st.
3. Row 5 RS: K2tog across. 5 sts.
4. Break yarn and gather.

Sew into a tiny cap and place slightly tilted on the bear’s head. A centered hat will look stiff. The tiny slant adds charm and matches the casual placement seen in the image.

Anchor Accent

The anchor beside the bunny is a tiny finishing touch. For a soft version, embroider it onto a small scrap of felt and place it beside the bunny for display. For a knitted version, create a simple twisted cord shape using gray yarn and stitch it into an anchor silhouette.

1. Cut a 6 inch / 15 cm strand of gray yarn.
2. Twist and fold it to make a narrow cord.
3. Shape into an anchor with a straight stem, curved arms, and a tiny crossbar.
4. Secure with tiny matching stitches.

Making Up the Bunny

Sew the head front and back together, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff gradually. Keep the cheeks smooth and the top rounded. The lower face should be slightly fuller than the upper face, but not bulbous. Close the lower edge lightly for now and set aside.

Sew each ear along its side seam. Turn, add minimal stuffing if desired, and flatten gently. Attach the ears to the upper sides of the head, slightly behind center. The ears should begin near the hat line and fall naturally downward. One ear may sit a little closer to the face than the other.

Sew the body front and back together, leaving the neck opening and lower edge temporarily accessible. Add a small weighted pouch to the base if desired, then stuff firmly enough for the bunny to sit upright against support. The upper body should remain slimmer than the lower body.

Sew the legs into slim tubes, stuff lightly, and attach at the lower front edge of the body so they hang straight down when seated. Add the shoes after the legs are attached, or attach shoes first if you prefer. The feet should point slightly forward, not outward.

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Sew the arms, stuff lightly, and flatten the upper edge. Attach to the body just below the neck line and angled downward. In the image, the arms hang quietly along the sides of the dress. Avoid lifting them too high or spacing them too far apart.

Join the head to the body with a strong ladder stitch. Add a few extra securing stitches at the back of the neck. The head should face forward with a slight natural tilt, not a dramatic angle. Once joined, test the balance before dressing the bunny.

Dressing the Bunny

Place the striped neck insert at the upper chest and stitch neatly. The visible portion should be small and centered. Next, fit the dress over the body and sew it closed at the back. Adjust the skirt so it spreads evenly and the center texture sits directly in the middle.

Position the sailor collar over the shoulders. The back of the collar should sit flat, while the front opening frames the striped insert. Stitch in place invisibly around the neckline and shoulder line. Add the red edging last if you have not already embroidered it.

Sew the beret to the head after the collar is attached. Let it sit low and slightly to one side. It should feel soft and relaxed rather than symmetrical. Once the beret is secure, adjust the ears around it so one ear emerges a little more prominently than the other.

Add the lifebuoy purse cord across one shoulder and tack the ring at the opposite hip. In the image, the purse sits at the bunny’s side and does not cover the whole front of the dress. Keep the strap narrow and close to the body for the correct scale.

Facial Embroidery Placement

The face is simple and sweet. Use very small stitched eyes placed well apart but still centered on the head. The eyes are short vertical ovals rather than large round dots. They sit above a tiny triangular nose. The mouth is formed by a short vertical line and a soft split curve.

• Place eyes about 8 rows below the top head curve
• Leave about 6 to 7 stitches between eyes
• Embroider nose in a small inverted triangle shape
• Add a short straight line downward from the nose
• Work two small angled stitches for the mouth

Do not over-embroider. The charm of the bunny comes from restraint. If the nose is too large or the eyes too dark, the entire expression changes. Use a single strand if needed to keep the features fine and clean.

Assembling the Tiny Bear

Sew the bear head pieces together, stuff lightly, and attach the ears near the top sides. Sew the body seam and stuff gently. Attach the head, then the arms and legs. The bear should sit upright with a compact silhouette. Add tiny black stitched eyes and a tiny nose and mouth.

Wrap the striped sweater around the body and stitch neatly at the back. Add the red hat at a slight angle. Place the bear beside the bunny when displaying the finished set. It should reach roughly to the bunny’s lower skirt area, matching the scale shown in the image.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the bunny from the front before securing the last stitches. Make sure the ears fall evenly, the beret sits low, the collar frames the neck insert, and the purse hangs at the hip. Add facial stitches only after the head, hat, and collar are fully placed so the expression stays centered.

Care Notes

Handle the bunny and bear gently, especially around the hat, purse strap, collar corners, and tiny bear hat. These details are secure when stitched well, but they are still decorative. This set is best treated as a display toy or a supervised keepsake rather than rough everyday play.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and firmly attached
• Ears soft and evenly placed
• Dress centered with textured panel in front
• Collar lying flat
• Beret angled slightly
• Shoes matched in size and height
• Purse resting at the hip
• Face small, balanced, and neat
• Tiny bear proportionate to bunny
• Anchor accent finished cleanly

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap when needed. Do not soak, twist, or machine wash. Reshape by hand and dry flat away from direct heat or sun. Store in a clean dry place, ideally wrapped in tissue, to protect the knitted surface from dust, stretching, and fading over time.