This charming bunny set captures a warm fall wardrobe in heirloom toy form. The design includes a long-eared rabbit, a fringe-trim beret, a belted cardigan, a speckled skirt, neat shoes, a tiny companion cat, and a small floral bundle. It has the look of a collectible stuffed animal, handmade doll clothes, and boutique seasonal decor all in one. Knitters who search for handmade bunny doll, knitted rabbit plush, autumn toy knitting, collectible nursery gift, and artisan stuffed bunny ideas will find this project especially appealing.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Overview
This pattern is written to closely match the photographed set. The main bunny is soft and upright, with a rounded head, narrow muzzle shaping, long downward ears, and a lightly weighted lower body.
The clothing is built in separate layers so the finished piece keeps the same dressed look shown in the image. The cardigan sits at the waist, the skirt flares gently, and the beret has a soft halo of looped fringe around the top edge.
The tiny companion cat is included because it is a visible knitted character in the scene. Its size, short limbs, tiny ears, little jacket, and mini beret are all drafted to echo the styling of the larger bunny.
The floral bundle is also included as a small finishing accessory. The wooden spool, tabletop needle, and plain yarn cones in the image are display props, so they are not knitted components in this pattern.
Finished Size
- Main bunny: about 11 to 12 inches tall from feet to top of head, not including beret fringe
- Beret diameter: about 4 inches across
- Cardigan length: waist length, ending just above the skirt waistband
- Skirt length: just below knee proportion on the bunny
- Tiny cat: about 4 inches tall seated or 4 1/2 inches standing
- Flower bundle: about 2 1/2 to 3 inches long
Your exact measurements may vary slightly with yarn and stuffing density. Keep the fabric firm enough that the stuffing does not show through.
Skill Level
Intermediate, with patient finishing. A confident beginner can make it successfully by working slowly and checking shaping often.
Materials
- Sport or light DK yarn in soft beige for the bunny body
- Small amount of dusky pink or muted blush for inner ears
- Warm golden mustard for the large beret and skirt fringe
- Variegated orange, rust, paprika, and amber yarn for cardigan and tiny cat jacket
- Tan or oatmeal yarn for the skirt base
- Very small amounts of burgundy, rose, rust, and olive for skirt speckles and flowers
- Light gray-beige yarn for the tiny cat body
- Tiny amount of dark brown or black yarn for facial embroidery
- Pair of 2.25 mm or 2.5 mm double-pointed needles or preferred needles for small circumference knitting
- Pair of 2.75 mm needles for clothing if you prefer a slightly softer drape
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Waste yarn
- Toy stuffing
- Small amount of pellets or weighted filling for the body base, optional
- Two small black safety eyes or black French knots for the main bunny
- Tiny black knots or seed beads for the cat eyes if desired
- Thin cardboard sole inserts for shoes, optional
Yarn Notes
The photographed set looks softly rustic, not glossy. Wool, wool blend, alpaca blend, or brushed natural-fiber yarns will give the closest result.
For the cardigan, choose a yarn with subtle tonal shifts rather than hard stripes. The image shows warm marled color changes across the sweater, shoes, and tiny cat jacket.
For the skirt, use a quiet tan base and embroider the tiny multicolor dots afterward. This gives the closest visual match to the scattered seed-like flecks in the fabric.
Gauge
Gauge is less important than producing a dense fabric. Aim for a firm knitted surface with no visible stuffing through the stitches.
- Body fabric: about 8 to 9 sts per inch in stockinette
- Clothing fabric: about 7 to 8 sts per inch in stockinette
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
- K2tog = knit 2 together
- SSK = slip, slip, knit
- M1 = make 1 increase
- BO = bind off
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- Rep = repeat
Construction Order
- Knit the main bunny legs and join for the body.
- Knit the torso and head as one piece.
- Knit arms and ears separately.
- Shape muzzle and embroider face.
- Knit skirt, cardigan, beret, and shoes.
- Knit the tiny cat and its clothing.
- Knit the flower bundle.
- Assemble and dress the figures.
Main Bunny Body
Legs Make 2
Using beige body yarn and smaller needles, CO 12 sts. Divide across needles for working in the round if desired. Join carefully.
Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Kfb in each stitch around. 24 sts.
Rounds 3 through 10: Knit.
Round 11: K3, Kfb, repeat around. 30 sts.
Rounds 12 through 18: Knit. Stuff the foot lightly at this stage, pressing more stuffing into the toe area so the foot looks rounded in front and flatter underneath.
Round 19: K2tog around. 15 sts.
Round 20: Knit.
Rounds 21 through 34: Knit to form the lower leg. Add a little more stuffing, but keep the ankle slimmer than the foot.
BO loosely or place stitches on waste yarn. Make the second leg the same.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Joining the Legs
Place both legs on needles with the feet pointing forward. Join across one leg, CO 4 sts for the inner body bridge, knit across second leg, CO 4 sts, and join in the round. You now have 38 sts if working from 15-stitch legs with 4 bridges.
Knit 4 rounds even. During these rounds, position the stuffing so each leg stays distinct. The image shows separated legs rather than a merged tube at the bottom.
Lower Body and Hips
Round 1: K1, M1 around. Increase evenly to 48 sts.
Rounds 2 through 10: Knit.
Round 11: K7, M1, repeat around to 54 sts.
Rounds 12 through 18: Knit.
Begin adding weight at the very bottom of the body if desired. Put pellets inside a fabric pouch first, then surround with stuffing. This helps the bunny stand with the same grounded look as the photographed figure.
Waist and Upper Torso
Round 19: K7, K2tog, repeat around. 48 sts.
Rounds 20 through 24: Knit.
Round 25: K6, K2tog, repeat around. 42 sts.
Rounds 26 through 32: Knit.
The torso in the image is gently tapered, not narrow. Avoid over-reducing here. The cardigan should still fit over a softly rounded midsection.
Chest and Neck
Round 33: K5, M1, repeat around. 49 sts.
Rounds 34 through 40: Knit.
Round 41: K5, K2tog, repeat around. 42 sts.
Round 42: Knit.
Round 43: K4, K2tog, repeat around. 35 sts.
Rounds 44 through 46: Knit. Stuff torso firmly but keep the neck area slightly softer so the head can settle naturally.
Head
The photographed head is rounded with a narrower lower face and a soft forehead. To achieve this, increase after the neck, then shape the muzzle with tension and embroidery rather than with a sharply protruding nose piece.
Round 1: Kfb around evenly to 42 sts.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: K6, M1, repeat around. 48 sts.
Rounds 4 through 12: Knit.
Round 13: K7, M1, repeat around to 54 sts.
Rounds 14 through 24: Knit.
Insert eyes now if using safety eyes. Place them about 8 to 9 rounds above the neck opening and about 7 to 8 stitches apart. The eyes in the image are very small, bead-like, and quietly placed.
Round 25: K7, K2tog, repeat around. 48 sts.
Rounds 26 and 27: Knit.
Round 28: K6, K2tog, repeat around. 42 sts.
Round 29: Knit.
Round 30: K5, K2tog, repeat around. 36 sts.
Stuff head firmly, especially the cheeks and crown. Keep the lower center front slightly less full so the face shaping thread can define the muzzle later.
Round 31: K4, K2tog, repeat around. 30 sts.
Round 32: Knit.
Round 33: K3, K2tog, repeat around. 24 sts.
Round 34: K2tog around. 12 sts.
Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, and close tightly.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Arms Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 10 sts. Join in the round.
Rounds 1 through 5: Knit.
Round 6: K1, M1 around to 15 sts.
Rounds 7 through 14: Knit.
Round 15: Purl one full round to create the subtle cuff turn seen under the cardigan sleeve edge if desired.
Rounds 16 through 24: Knit.
Round 25: K3, K2tog, repeat around to 12 sts.
Rounds 26 through 30: Knit.
Stuff hands and lower arms lightly. Leave upper arms mostly soft so they can drape naturally downward like the photo.
Flatten top opening and close with three-needle bind-off or whipstitch. Do not overstuff. The arms should hang straight beside the skirt.
Ears Make 2
Using beige yarn, CO 8 sts flat.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K1, M1, knit to last st, M1, K1. 10 sts.
Row 4: Purl.
Repeat the increase row every RS row until you have 20 sts.
Work even in St st for 20 rows. The ears should be long, soft, and gently tapering, with a finished length that reaches below the jawline once attached.
Next RS row: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
Work this decrease row every RS row until 8 sts remain.
Knit 2 rows even, then decrease every RS row to 4 sts. BO.
For inner ear lining, make a second flatter ear piece in pink or muted blush at about 70 percent of the outer ear width, or embroider a long inner panel using duplicate stitch. Sew the lining softly inside each ear.
The ears in the image fold downward from near the side crown. Steam lightly and curve them before attaching.
Muzzle and Face Shaping
Thread a long strand of matching beige yarn on a tapestry needle. Enter at the neck opening and bring the needle out at the lower center face.
Take one horizontal stitch across the lower muzzle area, then return to the neck opening. Pull gently to create a shallow indent under the nose area.
Repeat once if needed. The muzzle should look softly divided, not sharply pinched.
Embroider a small inverted Y nose-mouth detail using dark brown or black yarn. Keep the stitches short and neat. The nose in the image is tiny and understated.
Add a vertical stitch downward, then two angled stitches for the mouth. Finish with a slight tuck at the chin if you want extra definition.
Shoes Make 2
The bunny wears knitted Mary Jane style shoes in warm variegated orange tones, with visible top openings and a narrow strap effect across the instep.
Using the same yarn family as the cardigan, CO 24 sts and join in the round.
Rounds 1 through 4: K1, P1 rib.
Rounds 5 through 8: Knit.
Round 9: K10, BO 4, knit to end.
Next round: Knit to gap, CO 4 over gap, knit to end. This creates the top opening shape.
Rounds 10 through 14: Knit.
Round 15: K2tog around to 12 sts.
Stuff toe lightly if you want a removable stuffed shoe. For a cleaner doll-clothes finish, leave unstuffed and seam around the foot instead.
To make the strap look, embroider or stitch a short horizontal band across the front opening. Sew shoes onto the feet after dressing.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Skirt
The skirt is a warm tan shade with scattered embroidered dots and a deep mustard fringe along the hem. It sits high under the cardigan and has a softly flared silhouette.
Using tan yarn and slightly larger needles, CO 72 sts and join in the round.
Rounds 1 through 4: K1, P1 rib for waistband.
Rounds 5 through 10: Knit.
Round 11: K8, M1, repeat around to 81 sts.
Rounds 12 through 18: Knit.
Round 19: K9, M1, repeat around to 90 sts.
Rounds 20 through 32: Knit.
Round 33: Purl one round to form a soft visual line near the hem if desired.
Rounds 34 through 38: Knit.
BO loosely.
Using duplicate stitch or tiny embroidered knots, scatter small dots in burgundy, rust, muted rose, and olive across the lower two-thirds of the skirt. Do not place them in neat rows. The photo shows a natural sprinkled arrangement.
For the hem fringe, cut equal lengths of mustard yarn about 2 inches long. Fold each strand in half and attach one strand every second stitch around the lower edge using a crochet hook or latch method.
Trim evenly, then rough the fringe gently with fingers so it spreads like the soft tassel border in the photo.
Cardigan
This cardigan is the visual centerpiece of the outfit. It is short, warm-toned, belted, and slightly boxy, with a center opening and thick fringe at the sleeve edges.
Use a marled or slowly variegated orange-rust yarn. Work flat from the lower back upward, then divide for fronts. Sleeves are picked up or sewn in separately.
Body of Cardigan
CO 40 sts.
Rows 1 through 6: K1, P1 rib.
Rows 7 through 20: Work in St st, keeping first and last 3 sts in garter stitch for front edge stability once fronts are divided later.
Row 21: K8, BO 4, knit to end. This creates the start of the front opening split if you want one-piece shaping.
Next row: Work left front, back, right front sections separately as 9, 18, 9 sts, adding one garter edge stitch to each front if needed.
Work each front and back upward for 10 more rows. Shape armholes by binding off 2 sts at each outer armhole edge once, then decreasing 1 st at each armhole edge on the next RS row.
Continue until the cardigan reaches just under the neck point of the bunny body.
Bind off shoulders and seam neatly. The neckline should stay softly open and rounded.
Sleeves Make 2
CO 18 sts.
Rows 1 through 4: K1, P1 rib.
Rows 5 through 18: St st, increasing 1 st at each side every 6th row twice. 22 sts.
Rows 19 through 22: Work even.
Shape sleeve cap lightly by binding off 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then decreasing 1 st each side on next 4 RS rows.
Bind off remaining stitches. Sew sleeves into armholes.
The sleeves in the image are relaxed rather than tailored. A simple shallow cap is enough.
Sleeve Fringe
Cut lengths of matching yarn about 1 3/4 inches long. Attach around each cuff edge, spacing closely enough that the cuffs look full and bushy.
Comb lightly with fingers. The fringe should hang downward, not stand out stiffly.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Front Band
Pick up stitches evenly around the front opening and neck edge. Work 3 rows garter stitch, then BO. This creates the slightly thicker front band seen in the image.
Belt Tie
Make a long I-cord about 12 inches long in the same cardigan yarn. Tie loosely around the waist and tack in place at center back.
Allow the ends to hang softly at the center front. In the photo, the cardigan is belted with a casual wrap tie rather than a stiff sewn sash.
Fringe Beret
The beret is knitted in mustard and sits low over the head, with a ribbed band and a crown covered in looped fringe clusters. This detail is essential for matching the image.
Beret Band
Using mustard yarn, CO 48 sts and join in the round.
Rounds 1 through 10: K1, P1 rib.
Round 11: Kfb every 4th stitch around to 60 sts.
Rounds 12 through 20: Knit.
Round 21: K9, K2tog, repeat around to 54 sts.
Round 22: Knit.
Round 23: K8, K2tog, repeat around to 48 sts.
Round 24: Knit.
Round 25: K6, K2tog, repeat around to 42 sts.
Round 26: Knit.
Round 27: K5, K2tog, repeat around to 36 sts.
Round 28: K2tog around to 18 sts.
Cut yarn, draw through remaining stitches, and close.
Looped Fringe Trim
Thread a tapestry needle with doubled mustard yarn. Beginning just above the ribbed band, make loop stitches across the crown surface and around the outer top edge.
Each loop should be about 1/2 inch high before trimming. Anchor each loop securely on the inside.
Make the loops dense around the beret perimeter and scatter a second row over the top. Then trim a few loops open and leave others closed. This mixed texture best matches the tousled fringe effect in the image.
Place the beret slightly forward on the bunny head so one ear peeks from each side beneath it.
Tiny Companion Cat
This small cat is proportioned like a toy sidekick rather than a realistic cat. It has a rounded head, tiny body, short arms, little legs, pointed ears, and a miniature version of the same autumn clothing story.
Cat Legs and Body
Using gray-beige yarn, CO 8 sts for each leg. Work 10 rounds in stockinette. Make 2.
Join legs with 2 cast-on stitches between them. Work around all stitches for 8 rounds.
Increase evenly to 22 sts and knit 10 rounds for the torso.
Decrease evenly to 18 sts for the upper body and knit 4 rounds.
Cat Head
Increase evenly to 24 sts. Knit 10 rounds.
Insert tiny eyes or embroider French knots. They should be close-set and small.
Decrease gradually over the next 4 rounds to 12 sts. Stuff firmly and close.
📌Thank you for reading the article
Cat Arms Make 2
CO 6 sts and work 10 rounds. Stuff only the lower half. Sew to sides near upper torso.
Cat Ears Make 2
CO 6 sts flat. Knit 1 row. Increase to 8 sts over the next RS row, then knit 2 rows. Decrease to 4 sts and BO.
Sew to top of head with a slight outward tilt.
Cat Face
Embroider a tiny triangular nose in pink-brown yarn. Add a short vertical stitch and two small mouth curves. Keep everything delicate.
Tiny Cat Jacket
Using the same warm variegated yarn as the bunny cardigan, CO 20 sts and work flat.
Rows 1 through 3: K1, P1 rib.
Rows 4 through 12: St st, with 2 garter sts at each edge.
Divide into fronts and back for a center opening. Work 4 more rows.
Bind off shoulders and seam lightly. The jacket should look like a tiny cropped coat.
Add one tiny contrasting embroidered button at the upper front. In the image, the cat garment has a simple front closure accent.
Tiny Cat Beret
Using mustard or the orange-mustard blend, CO 20 sts and join.
Work 4 rounds K1, P1 rib.
Increase to 28 sts and knit 5 rounds.
Decrease back down gradually and close top.
Add a small soft top nub or a few short fringe stitches to suggest the same autumn hat styling as the larger bunny.
Flower Bundle
The bouquet in the photo is tiny and rustic, with olive stems and layered petals in warm yellow-orange shades. This accessory is small but helps the whole scene feel complete.
Stems Make 3 to 5
Using olive yarn, make short I-cords about 2 inches long. Leave tails for tying together later.
Petal Puffs
Using mustard, gold, and orange yarns, CO 12 sts for each flower on double-pointed needles.
Work 2 rounds knit.
Round 3: K1, yo around to create a slightly ruffled edge.
Round 4: Knit all stitches.
BO loosely. Pull one edge into a cupped circle and seam into a small flower head.
Layer two tiny flower heads in different colors if desired, placing orange inside mustard for the warm center effect seen in the image.
Attach to stem ends and tie all stems together with a short mustard strand.
Optional Styling Props Visible in the Image
The large wooden spool, the small thread cone, and the straight tabletop needle are not knitted pieces. They are simple display props used to stage the scene.
If you want the same visual mood for photography, place the finished bunny beside yarn spools, a wooden knitting needle, and a rustic tabletop.
Dressing the Bunny
- Slide the skirt onto the bunny and position the waistband at the natural waist.
- Put the cardigan on and center the opening.
- Tie the belt softly at the front.
- Sew shoes in place if desired.
- Place the beret slightly low on the forehead.
- Position the ears under the hat edge so they fall straight down.
The overall silhouette should be cozy and balanced. The cardigan should cover the waistband, and the skirt fringe should remain visible below it.
Assembly Details
Sew arms at the shoulder line so they fall beside the skirt, not straight out from the torso. The photographed bunny has a relaxed downward arm placement.
Attach ears slightly behind the eye line, one on each side of the upper head. Let them hang naturally with a soft fold near the top seam.
If the bunny leans backward, add a little more weight low in the body or tack the shoes to a display base for photography.
Sew the cat with a slightly rounded seated posture if you want the closest display look. A standing version is also acceptable, but the softer seated angle better matches the scene.
Texture and Color Placement Notes
- Body: plain and smooth beige, with no striping
- Ears: outer beige, inner muted pink-beige
- Beret: mustard gold with abundant looped fringe
- Cardigan: warm orange-rust tonal shading
- Skirt: tan base with tiny scattered stitched dots
- Shoes: same warm family as cardigan, slightly darker at sole if desired
- Cat: pale gray-beige with miniature autumn clothing
- Flowers: olive stems, mustard and orange petals
Helpful Tips for a Close Visual Match
- Keep the bunny head large compared with the body, but do not make it oversized.
- Use tiny eyes. Large eyes will change the personality completely.
- Do not overstuff the arms or ears.
- Make the beret fringe generous. Sparse fringe will not resemble the photo.
- Use a softly flared skirt, not a stiff bell shape.
- Choose a cardigan yarn with mottled fall color shifts.
- Scatter skirt speckles irregularly rather than in patterns.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the head position before sewing the neck opening closed fully. The bunny should face forward with only a slight downward softness to the chin.
Embroider the nose and mouth after the hat is fitted, since hat placement affects the visual balance of the face. Keep the features tiny and centered.
Add a few extra anchoring stitches inside the ears if you want them to stay close to the head. Dress the bunny fully before sewing the shoes permanently.
Care Notes
Handle the fringe on the beret, sleeves, and skirt gently. Finger-comb instead of brushing. Store away from rough hooks, jewelry, or Velcro.
Because this is a dressed decorative toy with small details, it is best suited for display, gentle supervised handling, or shelf decor rather than rough play.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Face centered and symmetrical
- Ears attached evenly
- Cardigan belt tied at waist
- Skirt fringe trimmed evenly
- Beret fringe full all around
- Shoes aligned straight
- Cat and flower bundle completed
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild wool-safe soap if needed. Do not soak, twist, or machine wash.
Reshape by hand and dry flat away from direct sun. For long-term storage, wrap loosely in clean tissue and keep in a dry box away from moths, dust, and heavy pressure.
