Bluebell Woodland Cape Bunny – Knitting

This woodland bunny set brings together a softly shaped rabbit, a bluebell dress, a leafy cape, a bobble-trim beret, tiny shoes, and the sweetest little side pieces for a storybook display. The finished set has the charm of a collectible heirloom toy, gift item, nursery decor piece, or handmade bunny doll for anyone browsing for knitted stuffed animal patterns, rabbit doll outfits, cottagecore toy knitting, and boutique-style handknit gifts. Every piece is written to match the photographed design as closely as possible, with balanced proportions, clear shaping, and neat finishing.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with a rounded head, long side-hanging ears, a slim body, gently tapered arms, short legs, a cream dress with bluebell motifs and eyelet lines, a mossy leaf-textured cape, a cream beret with blue floral accents and small bobbles, rose-brown shoes, a brown satchel, a cream envelope purse, a blue floral tag, and a tiny robin companion.

The overall look depends on neat tension, smooth stockinette, and careful assembly. The bunny itself is softly stuffed but not squishy. The dress should sit straight and slightly A-line. The cape must cover the shoulders without swallowing the neck. The beret should look full and soft, not tight like a cap.

For the closest result, use lightweight yarns with clear stitch definition. Embroidery and duplicate stitch details matter just as much as the shaping. Work slowly through the smaller items. Those small pieces are a large part of what gives the set its finished character.

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 10 to 11 inches tall from feet to top of head
• Beret adds slight height and width above the head
• Cape reaches just below the upper chest and spreads wide over both shoulders
• Dress falls to just above the ankles
• Robin: about 2 1/2 inches tall
• Satchel: about 2 1/2 inches wide
• Envelope purse: about 1 3/4 inches wide
• Floral tag: about 2 inches long including hanging loop

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light fingering or light sport weight in warm cream
• Dress contrast: medium blue
• Dress stems and floral tag leaves: soft olive green
• Cape: moss green
• Shoes and satchel: warm brown
• Envelope purse: cream
• Robin body: rust red
• Robin belly: charcoal gray
• Robin wing and scarf: taupe or oatmeal
• Robin beak: gold or mustard scrap
• Robin hat: deep red
• Pair of knitting needles suited to your yarn, usually US 1 to US 3
• Double-pointed needles if preferred for small circumferences
• Tapestry needle
• Removable stitch markers
• Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread for eyes
• Brown embroidery floss for nose and mouth
• Toy stuffing
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas scrap for optional sole inserts
• Very small buttons for cape, satchel, and envelope purse

Gauge

Gauge is less important than firmness, but the fabric should be tight enough that stuffing does not show. Aim for a smooth, even knitted fabric with good drape for the clothing and a slightly firmer fabric for the bunny and robin.

If your bunny comes out too large, go down a needle size. If the dress looks stiff and bulky, keep the body yarn the same but use a slightly larger needle for the dress and cape only.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• st st = stockinette stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• yo = yarn over
• m1 = make 1 increase
• sl = slip
• psso = pass slipped stitch over
• rep = repeat

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Notes Before You Begin

The bunny is worked in separate pieces and seamed. This gives the cleanest control over the head shape, ear placement, and dress proportions seen in the image. The dress and cape are separate garments. The beret is removable. The shoes may be made fixed to the feet or lightly stitched in place after dressing.

The bluebell motifs on the dress and tag are added with duplicate stitch after knitting. This keeps the cream fabric smooth and lets you place the motifs exactly where needed. The eyelet lines on the skirt are worked into the knitting.

The cape uses a simple leaf-inspired texture. Keep it shallow and tidy. The photographed cape is textured, but it is not heavily cabled. Small symmetrical ridges are enough to create the leafy look.

Bunny Head

Using cream, make 2 identical head pieces worked flat.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. Increase 2 sts.
4. Repeat the increase row every right-side row 6 more times. You will have 28 sts.
5. Work 16 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
6. Shape top: Row 1: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
7. Purl 1 row.
8. Repeat these 2 rows until 14 sts remain.
9. Next right-side row: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
10. Purl 1 row.
11. Repeat decrease row every right-side row until 6 sts remain.
12. Thread yarn through remaining sts and draw up.

Do not sew yet. One side will be the front and one the back. The face in the photograph is wide through the cheeks with a gentle narrowing toward the crown, so do not overstuff the upper head.

Muzzle Shaping

The photographed bunny has a softly defined muzzle, not a separate stuffed snout. To achieve this, use horizontal shaping during assembly rather than attaching a large extra piece.

• After seaming the head, add stuffing gradually.
• Use cream yarn to run a gathering line across the lower face, about one-third up from the bottom seam.
• Pull very lightly to create two rounded cheek pads and a shallow center dip.
• Secure without making the face pinched.

Ears

Using cream, make 2 ears worked flat. The ears are long, narrow, and softly rounded at the tips. They hang straight down from under the beret and reach to shoulder level.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in st st.
3. Row 5: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Repeat the increase row once more. 12 sts.
6. Work 18 rows even in st st.
7. Shape tip: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
8. Purl 1 row.
9. Repeat these 2 rows until 4 sts remain.
10. K2tog twice. 2 sts.
11. P2tog and fasten off.

Fold each ear lengthwise very lightly and seam side edges. Add only a trace of stuffing near the base, or leave unstuffed for a flatter drape. The photographed ears appear mostly flat, with a soft fold where they join the head.

Body

Using cream, make 2 body pieces worked flat. The body is narrower than the head and slightly pear-shaped, but still slender because the dress provides most of the visible width.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work 2 rows in st st.
3. Increase row: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. 16 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Repeat increase row every 4th row 3 more times. 22 sts.
6. Work 16 rows even.
7. Waist shaping: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Decrease 2 sts.
8. Purl 1 row.
9. Repeat waist shaping every 6th row twice more. 16 sts.
10. Work 6 rows even.
11. Shoulder shaping: BO 3 sts at the start of next 2 rows.
12. BO remaining 10 sts.

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Seam the body carefully. Stuff the lower torso firmly enough to stand inside the dress, but keep the upper chest slightly softer so the cape sits naturally.

Arms

Make 2 using cream. The arms are slim tubes with only modest widening at the upper arm. They end in rounded tips with no separate paw shaping visible.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Work 4 rows st st.
3. Increase row: K1, m1, knit to last st, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Work 14 rows even.
5. Shape top: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
6. Purl 1 row.
7. Repeat these 2 rows until 4 sts remain.
8. Thread yarn through remaining sts and draw closed.

Seam and stuff lightly. Keep the lower arm soft. Overstuffed arms will stick out too widely and spoil the gentle downward angle seen in the image.

Legs

Make 2 in cream. The legs are short and straight, mostly hidden by the dress and shoes.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 18 rows in st st.
3. Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
4. Work 3 rows even.
5. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Seam each leg into a tube and stuff firmly. Flatten the top edge before attaching to the body. Set them close together so the dress falls straight and the shoes sit neatly beneath the hem.

Assembly of Bunny Base

1. Sew head front and back together, leaving lower edge open.
2. Add stuffing in layers, shaping the cheeks by hand as you go.
3. Close lower edge and attach head to body with a firm ladder stitch.
4. Attach ears high on the head but slightly out to the sides, so they fall beside the face.
5. Sew arms to upper sides of body at a slightly downward angle.
6. Attach legs to lower body so the bunny can balance in a standing pose with shoe support.

Before securing everything permanently, try the dress on the body tube area. This helps confirm shoulder width and leg spacing.

Dress

The dress is cream with repeated bluebell motifs, diagonal-style eyelet columns, and a slim waistband in green. It is sleeveless and slightly flared. Work from lower hem upward in one flat piece, then seam at the back.

Using cream, CO 48 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 4: Work in garter stitch for a softly rolled hem edge.
2. Row 5: Knit.
3. Row 6: Purl.
4. Row 7: K6, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k2tog, k22, yo, k2tog, k6, yo, k2tog, k2.
5. Row 8: Purl.
6. Rows 9 to 16: Work in st st.
7. Repeat Rows 7 and 8 once more to create a second eyelet band.
8. Work 8 rows in st st.

Now begin gentle shaping toward the waist.

1. Decrease row: K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. Decrease 2 sts.
2. Work 5 rows even.
3. Repeat this decrease section 4 more times. 38 sts.
4. Work 4 rows even.

Waist band in green:

1. Change to olive green.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Change back to cream.

Upper dress shaping:

1. Work 6 rows in st st.
2. Armhole row: BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 32 sts.
3. Work 6 rows even.
4. Neck row: K10, BO 12, k10.
5. Work each side separately for 4 rows, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every other row once.
6. BO shoulder sts.

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Make a matching back in the same manner, but split the back opening after the waistband if you prefer easier dressing. For a simple version, make the back identical and leave a short upper back slit when seaming.

Bluebell Motif Placement

Add duplicate stitch after blocking the dress lightly. Each motif is a small drooping bell shape in blue with a narrow green stem. The skirt in the photograph shows motifs arranged in vertical drifting groups rather than strict rows.

• Place one motif group on the upper left skirt
• Place one motif group on the lower left skirt
• Place one motif group on the upper right skirt
• Place one motif group on the lower right skirt
• Keep the center front mostly clear except for the eyelet line effect

Each bluebell can be made with 3 to 4 duplicate stitches for the bloom and 1 to 2 stitches for the stem. Angle the blooms downward. Use uneven spacing so they resemble little sprays rather than gridwork.

Cape

The cape is one of the most important pieces in the set. It is leafy, layered in look, and sits close to the shoulders with a single small button at the throat. Work from neck downward.

Using moss green, CO 36 sts.

1. Rows 1 to 3: Work in garter stitch.
2. Row 4: K2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, continue in this alternating pattern across.
3. Row 5: Work sts as they appear.
4. Row 6: In each knit ridge section, kfb at center stitch of every leafy panel. Increase evenly across by 6 sts. 42 sts.
5. Rows 7 to 10: Continue textured pattern.
6. Row 11: Increase evenly across by 6 sts inside the leafy knit panels. 48 sts.
7. Rows 12 to 18: Continue pattern.
8. Row 19: Work 1 row knit on right side to create lower edge emphasis.
9. Rows 20 to 22: Garter stitch.
10. BO loosely.

To create the leaf impression, draw a strand down the center of each panel on the finished piece and lightly tack it at the back with matching yarn. This gives a raised vein look without needing heavy cables.

Sew a tiny button at one top corner and make a small loop at the other. The cape should meet close at the neck but remain slightly open below, showing the cream bodice of the dress.

Beret

The beret is cream with blue motif accents and little cream bobbles around the crown. It sits low and soft, with enough depth to cover the ear bases. Work flat as a shaped circle or in the round if preferred. The following flat method keeps finishing simple.

Using cream, CO 12 sts.

1. Row 1: Purl.
2. Row 2: Kfb in every st. 24 sts.
3. Row 3: Purl.
4. Row 4: K1, kfb around. 36 sts.
5. Row 5: Purl.
6. Row 6: K2, kfb around. 48 sts.
7. Rows 7 to 12: Work even in st st.
8. Rows 13 to 18: Add blue duplicate-stitch petal clusters after knitting, or use blue stitches inside these rows if you prefer colorwork.
9. Rows 19 to 22: Work even.
10. Decrease row: K2, k2tog around. 36 sts.
11. Purl 1 row.
12. Decrease row: K1, k2tog around. 24 sts.
13. Purl 1 row.
14. Decrease row: K2tog around. 12 sts.
15. Thread yarn through sts and gather.

Seam the back neatly. Pick up stitches around the lower edge and work 4 rounds or rows of k1, p1 rib for the brim. The brim should hug the head gently.

Bobbles for Beret

Make 8 to 10 tiny bobbles in cream. Each bobble can be made by knitting into the front, back, and front of one stitch, turning and purling 3, turning and knitting 3, then passing the outer stitches over the center stitch. Stitch each bobble onto the crown in a loose ring above the blue motifs.

Do not make the bobbles too large. In the image they read as small nubs, not pompoms.

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Shoes

The shoes are rose-brown ankle shoes with small strap detail and pale toe highlights. Make 2.

1. Using brown, CO 12 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch for sole.
3. Pick up along side if desired or continue flat for a simple seam version.
4. Work 8 rows in st st.
5. Decrease 2 sts on next row for toe shaping.
6. Work 3 rows even.
7. Gather top slightly and seam into a shoe shape.

Add a tiny strap across the front from a narrow knitted strip. Embroider a pale cream oval or tiny stitched dot at the toe opening to mimic the light detail visible in the image. Slip each shoe onto the foot and tack in place.

Satchel

The satchel is a brown knit shoulder bag with a front flap and single central button. It stands upright in the photo, so work it firmly.

1. Using brown, CO 18 sts.
2. Work 22 rows in seed stitch or firm rib-texture fabric.
3. Fold lower third up to form bag body.
4. Continue remaining upper section for 8 rows to make flap.
5. On flap edge, decrease 1 st at each end every other row 3 times for a tapered point.
6. BO.

Sew side seams. Add a long narrow I-cord or knitted strap and attach to both sides. Sew a small round button at center front. The flap may be lightly tacked beneath the button if you want it fixed closed.

Envelope Purse

This tiny cream accessory sits in front of the bunny and matches the main yarn color. It is small, flat, and buttoned.

1. Using cream, CO 14 sts.
2. Work 12 rows in seed stitch.
3. Fold lower half upward.
4. Work another 6 rows on the top flap.
5. Decrease 1 st at each end every other row until a short point forms.
6. BO.

Sew side edges. Add one tiny brown button or embroidered French-knot style knot at the point of the flap. Keep it slender and crisp.

Floral Tag

This small blue hanging piece resembles a knitted tag or sachet with a loop and bluebell motif.

1. Using pale blue, CO 10 sts.
2. Work 16 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.
4. Fold a short loop at the top from blue yarn or a tiny I-cord and stitch in place.

Duplicate stitch two small blue bell flowers with green stems near the lower half. This piece should remain flat, with only a little thickness from the knitted fabric itself.

Robin Companion

The robin is a separate miniature knitted bird with a rust body, charcoal base, taupe wings, a red hat, and a tiny scarf-like chest wrap. It gives the whole set a woodland feel and should be made neatly even though it is small.

Robin Body

1. Using rust red, CO 8 sts.
2. Increase at each end every right-side row until 16 sts.
3. Work 8 rows even.
4. Change to charcoal gray for lower belly and work 4 rows.
5. Begin decreasing at each end every right-side row until 8 sts remain.
6. Fasten off and seam, shaping into a plump teardrop body.

Stuff very lightly. The robin should be firm enough to stand but not round like a ball. The chest must appear fuller than the back.

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Robin Wings

Make 2 in taupe.

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Work 2 rows.
3. Increase 1 st at one end every other row twice.
4. Work 4 rows even.
5. Decrease to 4 sts and BO.

Sew one wing to each side. Angle them downward.

Robin Beak

Embroider a tiny mustard beak at the face center. It should be very small and pointed.

Robin Eyes

Use two tiny black stitches or knots.

Robin Hat

1. Using deep red, CO 10 sts.
2. Work 6 rows st st.
3. Decrease evenly to 6 sts.
4. Work 2 rows.
5. Thread yarn through sts and gather.

Add a tiny top nub by wrapping yarn several times. Sew hat to head at a slight tilt.

Robin Scarf Detail

Knit a strip 2 sts wide and about 10 rows long in taupe. Wrap around the front of the body diagonally and tack at the back. This mimics the little wrap visible in the image.

Facial Embroidery

The bunny’s face is calm and minimal. The eyes are small black vertical ovals placed wide apart and slightly above the muzzle line. The nose is stitched in brown as a tiny filled triangle. The mouth forms a short split line downward with soft curved sides.

• Place eyes about 7 to 8 stitches apart
• Position them just above the midpoint of the head height
• Keep the nose small and centered
• Do not overwork the mouth embroidery

The expression should stay gentle and neutral. Too much embroidery will make the face look older or sharper than the photographed bunny.

Dressing Order

1. Put on the dress and close back seam or back opening
2. Slip on the shoes and stitch in place if desired
3. Fasten the cape at the neck
4. Place the beret over the head, covering the ear bases
5. Adjust ears so they fall from beneath the hat
6. Arrange accessories around the bunny for display

Styling Tips for the Closest Match

• Head: keep it round and slightly broad through the lower half
• Ears: long, flat, and softly drooping
• Dress: slim through the waist with modest flare
• Cape: wide and leafy, ending above the waistline
• Beret: roomy with a gentle slouch
• Shoes: short and rounded, not bulky boots
• Accessories: firm, miniature, tidy, and slightly rustic

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the bunny from the front before securing the final stitches. The head should sit straight over the body, and both ears should fall at even lengths. The beret should cover the top of the head without hiding the face. The cape should rest evenly across both shoulders.

After the clothing is in place, refine the face. Add the eyes first, then the nose, then the mouth. Make tiny corrections before knotting off. A small difference in eye height can change the entire expression, so compare both sides carefully.

Care Notes

Handle the set as a decorative knitted toy or gentle play item. Small parts such as buttons and tiny accessories should be secured firmly. Store the smaller pieces together so they do not get lost.

If the beret or cape shifts during display, reshape them by hand instead of pulling sharply on the stitches. Light steaming near, but not directly on, the fabric can help refresh the drape.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both ears attached evenly
• Head centered on body
• Dress hem level all around
• Bluebell motifs placed neatly and balanced
• Cape closes comfortably at neck
• Beret sits low and soft
• Shoes match in height and angle
• Satchel, purse, tag, and robin fully finished
• All yarn tails woven in securely

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean whenever possible using cool water, a small amount of mild wool wash, and a soft cloth. Press gently rather than rubbing. For a fuller clean, hand wash the bunny and accessories separately, keeping soaking time short.

Reshape each piece on a towel and dry flat away from direct sunlight. Do not hang the bunny to dry. Avoid machine washing, tumble drying, or harsh wringing, especially for the beret, cape texture, and tiny accessory pieces.

For long-term storage, keep the set in a breathable cotton bag or acid-free box. Add tissue between the accessories to prevent snagging. Store flat in a cool, dry place so the cream yarn stays fresh and the embroidered details remain crisp.