Chrysanthemum Ribbon-Pleat Bunny – Knitting

This soft bunny is designed as a full heirloom-style knit doll with a complete wardrobe and charming seasonal accessories. The finished set has the appeal of a handmade rabbit plush, collectible stuffed bunny, nursery decor doll, and gift-ready knit toy all in one. The main bunny wears a moss-green pleated skirt, a dusty rose cardigan with tiny daisy details, a mustard beret with a ribbon bow, and brown strap shoes. The set also includes a small satchel, a tiny notebook, and a sweet little duck companion, making it ideal for anyone searching for a premium handmade bunny doll look.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a seated-style bunny with long drooping ears, a rounded head, a plump lower body, straight legs, simple mitten-like paws, and soft clothing that matches the proportions shown in the image.

The shaping is gentle rather than highly sculpted. The body is smooth and classic, with most of the character coming from the face placement, relaxed ears, cardigan edging, beret volume, floral accents, and carefully scaled accessories.

The bunny in the image looks approximately 14 to 16 inches tall from feet to the top of the beret when seated upright. The body proportions are balanced so the head appears large and sweet, but not oversized.

The small duck companion is much shorter, reaching roughly to the bunny’s knee. The satchel is compact and boxy. The notebook is palm-sized. Each small piece helps complete the exact visual story of the set.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light worsted or DK weight in warm ivory
• Cardigan yarn: dusty rose or muted mauve pink
• Dress yarn: soft moss green or sage green
• Beret yarn: mustard golden yellow
• Shoe yarn: medium brown and dark brown for toe accents
• Duck yarn: pale yellow, mustard, soft orange, and a little ivory
• Satchel yarn: warm beige or tan
• Notebook cover yarn: pale oatmeal or light beige
• Embroidery floss or fine yarn: dark brown for face, white and yellow for daisies
• Ribbon: narrow floral ribbon or printed ribbon for the bow on the beret
• Tiny buttons: 1 for cardigan, 1 for satchel, 1 for notebook, 1 for duck cardigan if desired
• Toy stuffing: soft polyester fiberfill
• Light cardboard or felt: optional, to stabilize satchel and notebook
• Small amount of sewing thread: to attach trims and tiny buttons securely

Tools

• Knitting needles suitable for your yarn, usually 2.75 mm to 3.5 mm for a firm fabric
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop setup for small circumferences
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Row counter
• Optional crochet hook for lifting dropped stitches or neat edging assistance

Gauge and Fabric Notes

A firm gauge matters. The bunny and all props should hold their shape without stuffing showing through. Use a needle size smaller than you might normally choose for this yarn.

A useful target is about 7 to 8 stitches per inch in stockinette for the doll pieces. The clothing can be worked at the same gauge or very slightly softer if you want better drape.

The image shows a smooth, neat surface with fine stitches rather than chunky knitting. Keep your tension even, especially on the face, ears, cardigan fronts, and beret crown.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• BO = bind off
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker

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Construction Order

1. Knit the legs.
2. Knit the body.
3. Knit the head.
4. Knit the arms.
5. Knit the ears.
6. Assemble and stuff the bunny.
7. Knit the dress.
8. Knit the cardigan.
9. Knit the shoes.
10. Knit the beret and add the ribbon bow.
11. Knit the satchel.
12. Knit the notebook.
13. Knit the duck companion and its clothing.
14. Add facial details and final finishing.

Main Bunny

Legs Make 2

The legs in the image are straight, softly stuffed tubes with a clean transition into the shoes. They are not bent at the knee. They sit slightly apart beneath the skirt.

1. CO 16 stitches in ivory.
2. Join carefully for working in the round, or work flat and seam later.
3. Work 4 rounds in K1, P1 rib for the ankle edge.
4. Work 24 to 28 rounds in St st for the leg shaft, depending on desired length.
5. Lightly shape the top with one decrease round: k2, k2tog, knit to last 4 stitches, ssk, k2.
6. Work 3 more rounds even.
7. Stuff the lower two-thirds firmly, leaving the top inch softer so the legs sit naturally under the body.
8. Leave stitches live or BO neatly if you prefer to sew the legs to the body later.

The finished legs should look slightly wider at the foot end once shoes are added, but otherwise smooth and slim.

Body

The bunny’s body is rounded and softly pear-shaped. The widest point sits low, under the dress. The upper torso narrows slightly before the neck.

1. CO 20 stitches, or pick up from one leg, then the second leg, joining them with 4 to 6 stitches between to form the lower body.
2. If knitting from joined legs, arrange so the inner leg gap stays centered.
3. Work 2 rounds even.
4. Increase gradually over the next 6 to 8 rounds until you have approximately 42 to 48 stitches.
5. Work even for 16 to 20 rounds to build the rounded tummy and lower torso.
6. Stuff the bottom section firmly as you go.
7. Begin upper-body shaping with evenly spaced decreases every 3rd round until you return to about 28 to 32 stitches.
8. Work 4 rounds even for the chest area.
9. Reduce gently to 20 to 24 stitches for the neck.
10. Stuff firmly but keep the neck especially compact so the head sits upright.

The body should feel stable enough to support the heavier head and hat. Add extra stuffing to the seat so the doll remains balanced when posed against a cushion or displayed on a shelf.

Head

The head is large, smooth, and softly oval, with a slightly full cheek line. The muzzle is defined mostly by embroidery rather than strong shaping.

1. From the neck stitches, increase evenly on the first head round to 32 stitches.
2. Increase every other round until you have about 52 to 60 stitches.
3. Work even for 18 to 22 rounds.
4. Stuff the lower half firmly, paying special attention to the cheeks.
5. For the upper head, begin evenly spaced decreases every other round.
6. Continue until 12 stitches remain.
7. Stuff fully and smoothly, avoiding lumps.
8. Thread yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight, and close the crown.

Shape the face lightly with your hands before closing. The image shows a calm, rounded face with a very gentle taper toward the chin, not a pointed muzzle.

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Arms Make 2

The arms are simple and softly tapered, with no separate paw color. They sit angled slightly downward from the shoulder and rest beside the skirt.

1. CO 14 stitches in ivory.
2. Work 3 rounds in K1, P1 rib.
3. Continue in St st for 16 to 18 rounds.
4. Increase 2 stitches across one round to create a subtle upper-arm fullness.
5. Work 6 more rounds even.
6. Stuff lightly, especially in the hand section.
7. Flatten the top opening and BO or thread-gather closed for sewing.

Do not overstuff. The sleeves of the cardigan should still fit comfortably over the arms.

Ears Make 2

The ears are long, narrow, and soft, hanging straight down from the sides of the head. They are not wired and not heavily stuffed.

1. CO 10 stitches in ivory.
2. Work flat in St st with edge stitches kept neat.
3. Increase 1 stitch each side on every 4th row 3 times to reach 16 stitches.
4. Work even for 24 to 28 rows.
5. Shape the rounded tip by decreasing 1 stitch each side every RS row until 6 stitches remain.
6. Work 2 rows even.
7. BO.
8. Make a second matching piece for each ear if you want a double-layer ear, or fold a single flat piece lengthwise.

The image suggests soft, flat ears with minimal thickness. A double-layer ear without stuffing gives the best drape. Lightly steam or hand-shape them so they hang straight.

Assembly of the Main Bunny Base

1. Sew the legs securely to the lower body if they were made separately.
2. Check that both legs sit straight and are the same length.
3. Attach the head firmly to the neck. Add a few extra support stitches through the neck base if needed.
4. Sew the arms at shoulder level, slightly below the neckline.
5. Attach the ears to the side upper head, just behind the face line and below the beret edge.

Before dressing the bunny, test the silhouette. The bunny should look sweet and upright, with the ears framing the face and the legs aligned evenly under the skirt.

Dress

The dress in the image is a simple moss-green knit dress with a high waist effect and a softly flared skirt. The hem has a neat textured border that visually anchors the outfit.

The easiest way to match the look is to knit the skirt separately as a dress body with either tiny shoulder straps hidden under the cardigan or a simple sleeveless upper section. The cardigan covers the top almost fully, so keep the bodice smooth and minimal.

Skirt and Bodice

1. CO enough stitches to fit around the bunny’s waist comfortably, usually 44 to 52 stitches.
2. Work 4 rows of garter stitch for the hem border.
3. Increase evenly across the next row to create the skirt flare.
4. Work in St st for 22 to 28 rows.
5. Create soft pleat fullness by working one decrease round that removes about 8 to 10 stitches evenly.
6. Work 6 to 8 rows even for the waist section.
7. Divide for front and back bodice if working flat.
8. Work a simple sleeveless bodice to the underarm height.
9. Create narrow shoulder straps or a small upper front and back panel.
10. BO and sew neatly.

The skirt should fall just below the bunny’s knees while seated, as shown in the image. It should look full but not stiff. The flare is important because it contrasts beautifully with the fitted cardigan.

Cardigan

The cardigan is one of the most recognizable parts of the design. It is dusty rose, cropped at the waist, and slightly rounded at the lower fronts. The edging is textured and frames the center opening. A single small button closes it near the neckline.

The cardigan sleeves are straight and comfortable, ending around wrist length. Small embroidered white daisies with yellow centers decorate both cuffs and both lower front areas.

Cardigan Back

1. CO 28 to 32 stitches in dusty rose.
2. Work 4 rows in a textured border, such as seed stitch or narrow rib.
3. Continue in St st for the back body.
4. Work until the piece reaches the waist-to-underarm height of the bunny.
5. Shape shallow armholes by binding off 2 stitches at each side once.
6. Continue until shoulder height.
7. Shape a modest back neck.
8. BO shoulders.

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Cardigan Fronts Make 2

1. CO 16 to 18 stitches for each front.
2. Work the center edge in a textured band throughout, about 3 stitches wide.
3. The lower front edge should round gently outward rather than ending square.
4. To shape this, add short rows or staggered increases near the lower outer edge.
5. Work to match the back length at the underarm.
6. Shape the armhole as for the back.
7. Create a gentle neckline slope.
8. On one front, work a tiny button loop near the top edge.

Sleeves Make 2

1. CO 16 stitches.
2. Work 4 rows in the same textured border as the cardigan fronts.
3. Increase gradually along the sleeve length to about 22 stitches.
4. Work until the sleeve reaches wrist to shoulder length on the bunny arm.
5. Shape a shallow sleeve cap or leave nearly straight for a soft toy garment.
6. BO.

Finishing the Cardigan

1. Sew shoulder seams.
2. Set in sleeves.
3. Sew side and sleeve seams.
4. Work or sew on a continuous textured edging if needed to sharpen the front opening.
5. Attach one tiny button at the upper front.

Daisy Embellishments

The image shows small white daisies with yellow centers embroidered directly onto the cardigan. Place them with restraint so they remain delicate.

• Work 2 daisies near one cuff and 1 or 2 near the other cuff.
• Work 2 daisies near the lower left front.
• Work 2 or 3 daisies near the lower right front.
• Use straight stitches or lazy-daisy stitches for petals.
• Use a compact yellow knot or satin center.

Do not crowd the flowers. The cardigan in the image still looks elegant and uncluttered.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are brown Mary Jane style knit shoes with rounded dark toes and two strap details on each shoe. Small side buttons fasten the straps visually.

1. CO enough stitches to fit around the base of one bunny foot, usually 18 to 20 stitches.
2. Work a sole in dark brown garter or dense stockinette, shaped slightly oval.
3. Pick up stitches around the sole edge in medium brown.
4. Work a few rounds upward for the shoe sides.
5. Shape the toe cap by switching to dark brown for the front section and decreasing slightly.
6. Leave the center top open so ivory leg fabric shows through like the foot opening.
7. Create two narrow straps from one side of the opening to the outer side of the shoe.
8. Sew a tiny button at the outer side where each strap ends.

The shoe opening should reveal a large oval section of the ivory foot, just like the image. Keep the straps slim and slightly angled.

Beret

The beret is mustard yellow, softly puffed, and worn low on the head. It has a ribbed band and a tiny central stem at the top. A printed ribbon bow sits off-center on the right side.

1. CO 44 to 52 stitches in mustard yellow.
2. Work 6 to 8 rounds in K1, P1 rib for the headband.
3. Increase evenly on the next round until you have about 72 to 84 stitches.
4. Work 10 to 14 rounds even in St st to form the puffed body of the beret.
5. Begin crown decreases in evenly spaced sections every other round.
6. Continue until 8 stitches remain.
7. Draw closed tightly.
8. Add a tiny top nub by stitching a short gathered point at the center.

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Place the beret low enough to cover the top attachment point of the ears while still showing the full face. The puff should sit more toward the back and left, matching the relaxed look in the image.

Ribbon Bow

• Use a narrow floral or muted patterned ribbon.
• Tie a small neat bow with short tails.
• Sew it to the front-right side of the beret band.
• Angle it slightly upward for a natural placement.

Satchel

The satchel is a small beige shoulder bag with a flap, long strap, and one visible button. It is boxy and softly structured.

1. CO 18 stitches in beige.
2. Knit a flat rectangle in garter or very tight St st for the main body.
3. Fold into a pouch shape, leaving enough length for a front flap.
4. Sew the side seams.
5. Round the flap corners slightly if desired.
6. Knit or crochet a narrow strap long enough to sit beside the bunny.
7. Sew the strap to the side edges.
8. Attach one small button to the center front beneath the flap.

If you want extra structure, slip a small piece of felt or thin cardboard inside the base. Keep the satchel understated so it matches the soft neutral style of the set.

Notebook

The tiny notebook at the bunny’s feet has a pale knitted cover, visible white page edges, and a small flap with a button closure.

1. Knit a narrow rectangle in pale beige large enough to wrap around a tiny folded insert.
2. Create a stack of folded paper or felt pages inside.
3. Fold the knitted cover around the insert.
4. Add a narrow front flap extension.
5. Sew the side spine lightly if needed.
6. Attach one tiny button on the front.

The page insert should peek out slightly so the object reads clearly as a notebook rather than a pouch.

Duck Companion

The duck is a small knitted companion in pale yellow with an orange beak, orange feet, a mustard beret, and a tiny mustard cardigan. It mirrors the bunny’s outfit and gives the whole composition extra charm.

Duck Body and Head

1. CO or begin from the bottom with 12 stitches in pale yellow.
2. Increase evenly to create a rounded oval body, reaching about 24 to 28 stitches.
3. Work even for several rounds.
4. Continue upward into the head without a sharp neck break.
5. Increase slightly for the cheek area, then work even.
6. Decrease toward the crown.
7. Stuff firmly but keep the shape smooth.
8. Close the top.

Duck Wings Make 2

1. CO 8 stitches in pale yellow.
2. Work short flat oval wing shapes.
3. Decrease at the tip for a rounded end.
4. Sew lightly at the sides of the body.

Duck Beak

1. CO 8 stitches in soft orange.
2. Work 2 to 4 rows flat.
3. Decrease toward the outer corners to make a shallow oval bill.
4. Fold slightly and sew to the center face.

Duck Feet

• Make two tiny orange flat feet or stuffed tabs.
• Attach to the lower body so the duck stands or sits upright beside the bunny.

Duck Face

• Embroider tiny dark eyes placed wide apart.
• Keep the expression simple and sweet.

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Duck Cardigan

The duck cardigan is very small and cropped, worked in mustard to coordinate with the bunny’s beret.

1. CO a very small back panel and two fronts.
2. Use a garter or seed-stitch edge.
3. Keep the sleeves extremely short and rounded.
4. Attach a tiny front button if desired.

Duck Beret

• Work a miniature beret exactly like the main one in concept.
• Use a ribbed band, one puff round, then crown decreases.
• Keep it small and slightly tilted.

Proportion Check

Before final sewing, compare all parts. The bunny head should be about one-third of the seated visible height. The ears should reach to around the lower cheek or shoulder area once attached and hanging.

The cardigan should end at the waist. The dress should show clearly beneath it. The beret should look generously rounded but not oversized. The satchel must be smaller than the bunny’s head width. The duck should be distinctly smaller than the satchel height.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Dress the bunny first with the green dress, then the pink cardigan, then the shoes, and finally the beret. Place the satchel to the left side and the notebook near one foot. Set the duck close to the right side of the skirt.

For the face, embroider two slim vertical oval eyes in dark brown. Place them low enough to keep the forehead broad and baby-like. Stitch a small Y-shaped nose and mouth centered near the lower face.

Add a very subtle nose bridge stitch above the mouth if needed, but keep the muzzle soft. The face in the image is quiet and minimal, so avoid adding blush, lashes, or extra contouring.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Handle embroidered flowers and ribbon gently.
• Keep away from rough play if used as decor.
• Store the duck and notebook together so small parts are not misplaced.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both legs are even in length.
• The head is centered and secure.
• The ears hang evenly.
• The cardigan closes neatly with one top button.
• The daisy placement looks balanced, not crowded.
• The beret sits low and slightly relaxed.
• Both shoes show the open top and double straps clearly.
• The satchel, notebook, and duck match the scale of the bunny.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term display, keep the set out of direct sunlight to protect the dusty rose, mustard, and moss tones. If dust appears, use a soft dry brush or a cool low-suction vacuum through a cloth barrier.

If washing becomes necessary, remove any cardboard inserts from the satchel or notebook first. Hand wash gently in cool water with mild soap, press in a towel, reshape each item, and dry flat away from heat.

Do not wring the ears, beret, or cardigan. Reposition the face, ears, and shoes while damp so the bunny dries back into its original silhouette. Store in a breathable cotton bag if packing away for a season.