Wisteria Porch Bunny – Knitting

This knitted bunny is designed to match the gentle garden look of the sample, with a soft cream head, long lined ears, a sage dress covered in trailing wisteria embroidery, a dusty rose cardigan, a wide-brim hat with grape-like blossoms, a tiny crossbody flower pouch, rounded Mary Jane shoes, a small robin in a jacket and hat, and a folded fan accessory. It has the feel of an heirloom stuffed bunny doll, a handmade nursery gift, and a collectible knitted rabbit toy, while still being practical for makers who enjoy elegant decorative details and boutique-style handmade pieces.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light DK yarn in soft cream for head, muzzle shaping, hands, legs, and upper feet.
• Ear lining yarn: pale blush or warm dusty pink in light DK.
• Dress yarn: muted sage green in light DK.
• Cardigan yarn: light taupe-beige in DK.
• Shoe yarn: pale mauve or vintage blush in DK.
• Hat yarn: soft cream in DK.
• Embroidery yarn: lavender, lilac, pale orchid, olive green, muted brown, and soft mauve.
• Pouch yarn: muted clay pink or rosy brown in fingering to light DK.
• Robin yarn: rusty red-orange, brown, cream, and a little charcoal or dark brown.
• Toy stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Safety eyes or black embroidery thread: for the bunny’s eyes. Embroidered eyes are best for a soft, classic look.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Small sewing needle and matching thread: for securing tiny decorative parts if preferred.
• Knitting needles: a size that gives you a tight fabric, usually 2.5 mm to 3.25 mm for DK yarn.
• Double-pointed needles or magic loop: for small tubes.
• Stitch markers, row counter, scissors.
• Thin craft wire, optional: only for the fan if you want a crisp folded shape. Do not use for children’s toys.

Finished Size

The bunny stands at about 11 to 13 inches tall from the bottom of the shoes to the top of the head, not including the hat brim. The hat adds a little height and width. The robin stands about 2 inches tall.

The proportions matter more than exact measurement. The head should look slightly large and rounded, the torso compact, the skirt softly flared, the cardigan short, and the hat broad enough to frame the face and ears.

Gauge and Fabric Notes

Use a firm gauge so stuffing does not show through. The fabric in the sample looks smooth, even, and tightly worked, with clean stockinette texture and very little visible gap between stitches.

• For all toy pieces, knit tighter than you would for garments.
• The dress and cardigan should still drape gently, but not loosely.
• The hat brim needs enough body to hold a soft curve.
• The floral embroidery should sit on top of the fabric without puckering it.

Design Overview

This design is built from several separate knitted elements assembled with careful placement. The bunny itself includes head, muzzle shaping, body, arms, legs, ears, dress, cardigan, shoes, hat, and pouch.

The decorative set also includes a tiny robin wearing a small cream jacket and matching hat, plus a folded fan with wisteria embroidery. These details are important to the finished look, so none of them should be skipped if you want the closest match.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• sts = stitches
• rnd = round

Color and Placement Notes Before You Start

The visual identity of this bunny depends on soft, muted contrast. Keep the palette gentle. Avoid bright white, strong pink, or vivid purple.

• The head, muzzle, hands, and lower legs are cream.
• The dress is sage green.
• The cardigan is a pale mushroom-taupe.
• The shoes are dusty rose.
• The hat is cream with lavender blossom embroidery and a twisted purple hatband.
• The pouch is rosy brown with tiny lavender flowers.
• The robin has a rust body, dark head accents, cream hat and coat.

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Head

Knit the head in the round from the top down for the smoothest finish. The head should be nearly spherical, but slightly fuller through the cheeks than at the crown.

1. CO 8 sts and divide onto needles.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each st. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Knit.
7. Rnd 6: K2, kfb around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Knit.
9. Rnd 8: K3, kfb around. 40 sts.
10. Rnd 9: Knit.
11. Rnd 10: K4, kfb around. 48 sts.
12. Work 18 to 22 rnds in St st.
13. Place eyes between rounds 15 and 17, spaced about 8 sts apart, or embroider later.
14. Shape lower head: K4, k2tog around. 40 sts.
15. Knit 1 rnd.
16. K3, k2tog around. 32 sts.
17. Knit 1 rnd.
18. K2, k2tog around. 24 sts.
19. Begin stuffing firmly, with extra fullness at cheeks and forehead.
20. K1, k2tog around. 16 sts.
21. K2tog around. 8 sts.
22. Thread yarn through remaining sts and close.

Do not overstuff the bottom edge. You need enough softness there to allow a gentle transition into the neck and body.

Muzzle Shaping and Nose Area

The face in the sample is simple and elegant. It uses very minimal shaping, with a centered vertical nose line and a delicate Y-style mouth. The muzzle should not protrude like a snout. It is formed mostly by stuffing direction and embroidery tension.

• Using matching cream yarn, make two very light sculpting passes from eye area toward the base of the muzzle to suggest cheeks.
• Embroider a tiny vertical nose line in muted taupe or brown, about 3 to 4 knit rows long.
• Add a short split mouth stitch at the base.
• Keep the expression calm and neutral.

Body

The body should be shorter than the head and slightly pear-shaped, narrow at the neck and broader at the lower torso. It sits under the dress, so shaping can be simple, but proportions matter.

1. CO 16 sts in cream.
2. Work 4 rows in St st.
3. Increase row: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 18 sts.
4. Purl 1 row.
5. Repeat increase row every 4th row 4 more times until 26 sts.
6. Work even for 16 rows.
7. Decrease row: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 24 sts.
8. Repeat decrease row every 4th row 3 times until 18 sts.
9. Work 6 rows even for upper body.
10. Stuff firmly, with slightly flatter upper chest than lower belly.
11. Draw yarn through live sts and close, leaving a neck opening area soft enough to attach to head.

If you prefer, you may knit front and back flat and seam. The finished torso should remain smooth and compact beneath the dress.

Legs

Each leg is slender at the ankle, a little fuller through the calf, and ends in a softly rounded foot that will sit inside the shoe. The visible lower leg is cream.

1. CO 10 sts in cream and join.
2. Work 10 rnds in St st.
3. Increase evenly to 12 sts.
4. Work 12 more rnds.
5. Increase evenly to 14 sts for the upper leg.
6. Work 10 rnds.
7. Stuff lightly. The leg should bend a little when sewn in place.
8. Flatten top and close with grafting or seam.

Make two. Leave long tails for attaching. The legs should angle slightly forward from the lower body so the bunny stands with a stable, sweet posture.

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Feet Base

The bunny’s feet are visually softened by the shoes, but the base still needs a rounded front. Make a small oval or semicircular foot end on each leg.

• Pick up or knit a short oval base with 14 to 16 sts total.
• Work 4 to 6 short rows to create toe depth.
• Seam to lower leg.
• Stuff just enough to hold a rounded toe.

Arms

The arms are simple soft tubes with slightly flattened mitten ends. They are not long. In the sample they end around the lower bodice area when attached.

1. CO 10 sts in taupe-beige if you want sleeves built in, or cream if making full arms under a separate cardigan.
2. For the most accurate look, knit the hand in cream first: work 8 rnds in cream.
3. Switch to cardigan color and work 16 to 18 rnds.
4. Stuff lightly, especially near the wrist.
5. Flatten top and close.

When attaching, angle the arms gently downward and outward. They should look relaxed, not stiff or straight across.

Ears

The ears are long, soft, and drooping. Each has an outer cream layer and an inner blush lining. They are attached high on the head, then fall to the sides beneath the hat brim.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. CO 4 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Kfb, knit to last st, kfb. 6 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 8 sts.
6. Continue increasing at each end every RS row until 16 sts.
7. Work even for 20 to 24 rows.
8. Shape tip: decrease 1 st each end every RS row until 6 sts remain.
9. BO.

Inner Ear, Make 2

Work the same shape in pale blush, but stop when the piece is slightly smaller all around. This keeps the outer cream edge visible.

Finish the Ears

• Lay inner ear on outer ear.
• Whipstitch around edges, leaving lower edge open.
• Do not stuff.
• Lightly steam if needed so they curve softly.

Attach the ears about one third down from the crown on each side. Let them hang close to the cheeks. The lower ends should reach near the upper chest.

Dress

The dress is a sleeveless sage-green piece with a smooth bodice and softly flared skirt. The floral embroidery is concentrated across the chest and lower skirt, with cascading wisteria clusters falling diagonally down both sides.

1. CO enough sts to fit the lower skirt hem comfortably around the body, usually 54 to 64 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch for a neat hem edge.
3. Switch to St st and work upward.
4. On every 8th row, decrease evenly by 4 sts until you reach bodice width of about 32 to 36 sts.
5. Work even for 10 to 12 rows.
6. Divide for front and back if knitting flat from this point, or shape armholes in the round.
7. Bind off 2 sts at each armhole edge.
8. Work straight for 8 rows.
9. Shape neckline gently at center front.
10. Work shoulders short and neat, then seam.

The dress should stop above the ankles and cover the top of the legs, leaving the shoes fully visible. The skirt must flare modestly, not stiffly. Aim for a smooth A-line.

Wisteria Embroidery on Dress

This detail defines the entire piece. Work the floral motifs after blocking the dress lightly and fitting it over the stuffed bunny body, or over the finished body template. Use duplicate stitch, satin stitch, straight stitch, and tiny French knots if desired.

• At the upper chest, embroider a small central cluster with olive leaves and several lilac blossoms.
• On the lower left skirt, create one long trailing spray beginning near the waist and falling toward the hem.
• On the lower right skirt, mirror the effect but keep it slightly asymmetrical for a natural look.
• Each hanging cluster should have a slim green stem line with many petal drops in pale lilac, medium lavender, and soft pink-lilac.
• Add tiny brownish stems where needed so the flowers look botanical, not cartoon-like.

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Keep the blossoms denser at the top and more separated toward the tips. That creates the recognizable draping form of wisteria.

Cardigan

The cardigan is cropped, open at the front, and slightly rounded at the lower edges. It has long sleeves and a simple, polished finish. The color is a pale mushroom-taupe, lighter than the arms but clearly distinct from the sage dress.

1. CO for the back, about 28 sts.
2. Work in St st for 18 rows.
3. Bind off 2 sts at each armhole side.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Shape shoulders and back neck gently.
6. For each front, CO 14 sts.
7. Work to match back length, shaping a gentle front neckline and slight lower front curve.
8. Seam shoulders.
9. Pick up around armholes and knit sleeves downward, or knit sleeves separately and sew in.
10. Sleeves should taper a little at the wrist.
11. Finish front edges, hem, and cuffs with 3 to 4 rows of garter or seed stitch edge.

The cardigan should end just below the waist and remain open. Do not add buttons. In the sample, it frames the embroidered chest panel of the dress without covering it too much.

Shoes

The shoes are rounded Mary Jane style in pale mauve, with a strap crossing the top of each foot. They look soft and knitted, not rigid like real footwear.

1. CO 16 sts in shoe color.
2. Work a small oval sole using short rows or by knitting an oval in the round.
3. Pick up around sole edge and knit upward for 8 to 10 rnds.
4. Decrease at toe area over the next 4 rnds to create a rounded front.
5. Leave opening at the top for the foot entry.
6. Knit a narrow strap of 12 to 14 rows and attach from one side across the instep.
7. Sew shoe securely around the bunny foot.

Each shoe should be a little bulbous at the toe and sit flat on the table. The strap should angle lightly, just enough to suggest a Mary Jane fastening.

Hat

The hat is essential. It is a cream cloche-like garden hat with a medium-wide brim that dips gently around the face. A twisted purple band circles the crown, and one side carries clustered wisteria blossoms with small green leaves.

1. CO 8 sts in cream and join.
2. Increase gradually to 40 to 44 sts for crown top.
3. Work even for 16 to 18 rnds to form crown depth.
4. Begin brim increases: increase 6 to 8 sts evenly every 3rd rnd until the brim reaches a soft flare.
5. Work 8 to 12 rnds for brim depth.
6. BO loosely.

The brim should not be floppy enough to collapse, but it should curve gently downward. Light steam blocking helps. You may thread a very fine invisible support line around the brim edge if needed, but keep the finish soft.

Hatband

• Knit or twist a narrow lavender cord long enough to circle the crown.
• Sew in place where crown meets brim.

Wisteria on Hat

• Embroider a small vine extending across the front and to one side.
• Add 2 or 3 leaf groups in olive green.
• Create one fuller hanging bloom cluster at the right side of the hat.
• Add one or two smaller blossom groups nearby so the trim looks layered and botanical.

Do not overfill the hat with flowers. The sample has a refined, balanced arrangement.

Crossbody Flower Pouch

The small pouch is worn across the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip. It is tiny, slightly rounded, and decorated with a little hanging lavender cluster.

1. CO 10 sts in rosy brown.
2. Knit a flat rectangle in St st for about 16 rows.
3. Fold into a small pouch and seam sides.
4. Knit or crochet a narrow strap long enough to cross from shoulder to hip.
5. Sew strap to pouch corners.
6. Embroider or attach a tiny lilac flower cluster at the lower front corner.

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The pouch should rest near the right side of the skirt, just below the cardigan edge. Keep it small. It is an accent, not a large bag.

Folded Fan Accessory

The fan is a small cream handheld piece placed beside the bunny. It has a scalloped fan shape, pale wooden or taupe base spokes, and a lavender floral spray in one corner.

1. CO 3 sts in cream.
2. Increase at each end every RS row until you have a shallow wedge.
3. Work short rows to create a semicircle or folded-fan shape.
4. BO neatly.
5. Embroider several thin spoke lines in taupe radiating from the base center.
6. Add a tiny wisteria spray in one upper section using lavender and olive thread.

If you want a more structured fan, insert a thin felt layer or very light interfacing between two knitted layers. Keep it delicate and understated.

Robin

The robin is small but important. It gives the scene a storytelling finish. The body is rust-red on the front, darker on the head and back, with tiny feet. It wears a cream coat and a small cream hat.

Robin Body

1. Begin at the base with dark brown or charcoal-brown.
2. Increase from 6 sts to 18 or 20 sts to form a rounded lower body.
3. Work a few rows, then switch front center stitches to rust-red while keeping back stitches dark.
4. Continue shaping into an egg-like body.
5. Decrease toward the top, stuffing lightly.
6. Embroider tiny eyes and a small beak.

Robin Wings

• Knit two tiny leaf-shaped wings in dark brown.
• Sew to sides so they hug the body.

Robin Coat

• Knit a very small cream jacket with open front.
• Keep sleeves short and body snug.
• It should sit like a tiny overcoat rather than a full sweater.

Robin Hat

• Knit a miniature cream hat with a short brim.
• Shape it like a simple garden hat to echo the bunny’s hat.

The robin should stand beside the bunny, not look oversized. It is a companion detail, roughly one sixth to one seventh the bunny’s height.

Assembly Order

Assembly is what brings this design to life. Work slowly and compare placements often.

1. Attach head to body, making sure the face looks forward and the chin sits naturally above the neckline.
2. Sew legs firmly to the lower body so the bunny can stand balanced with support.
3. Attach arms at shoulder level, angled slightly downward.
4. Sew ears to head high enough that the hat brim can cover their top attachment points.
5. Dress the bunny in the sage dress.
6. Add the cardigan over the dress.
7. Sew or slide on the shoes.
8. Place the crossbody pouch from left shoulder to right hip.
9. Set the hat on the head and tack it in place with a few hidden stitches.
10. Position the robin and fan as separate accessories.

Embroidery Placement Map

For the closest visual match, use this placement guide.

• Dress chest: one compact floral cluster centered just under the neckline.
• Dress left skirt: a large downward wisteria spray starting near the side waist.
• Dress right skirt: a second trailing spray, slightly narrower.
• Hat front: one vine crossing the front band area.
• Hat right side: the fullest blossom group.
• Pouch: one tiny hanging blossom cluster near the lower front.
• Fan: one miniature wisteria spray at the upper left or right section.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

Several tiny choices determine whether the finished bunny matches the sample.

• Keep the face minimal and calm.
• Do not make the cardigan too long.
• Do not make the hat brim too wide or too stiff.
• Let the ears hang below the brim naturally.
• Use soft botanical embroidery rather than bright decorative flowers.
• Keep the pouch small and the strap fine.
• Make the shoes rounded and slightly oversized compared with the ankles.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Before securing everything permanently, place the hat, pouch, and cardigan on the bunny and look at the overall balance from the front. The face should sit centered under the brim with both ears visible.

For the facial detailing, keep the eyes small and vertical-oval in feel, whether stitched or inserted. The nose line should be short, and the mouth should be delicate. A tiny amount of cheek shading in pale taupe thread may be added, but only very lightly.

Care Notes

• Spot clean whenever possible.
• Handle embroidered blossoms gently.
• Store the fan separately if it is lightly structured.
• Keep the hat brim supported during storage.
• Do not hang the bunny by the pouch strap.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are the ears even and hanging at the same level?
• Does the hat frame the face without covering the eyes?
• Is the dress embroidery balanced from left to right?
• Does the cardigan stay cropped and open?
• Are the shoes level on the table?
• Is the pouch small enough for scale?
• Does the robin look clearly smaller and companion-sized?
• Is the fan neat and lightly decorated?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft cloth and mild soap solution for gentle spot cleaning. Do not scrub the embroidery, facial stitches, or the tiny robin details. Press moisture out with a towel and let all pieces dry flat away from direct sun.

For long-term preservation, store the bunny in a clean, dry place with tissue support under the hat brim and around the ears. Avoid plastic bags for long periods. Acid-free tissue and a breathable box help maintain shape and color.