This knitted bunny is a soft heirloom-style doll with a rose-trim hat, a petal-paneled dress, a mossy green capelet, tiny cross-tie shoes, a flower, a small basket bag, and a sweet little mouse companion. It is designed to look charming on a nursery shelf, in a spring display, or as a handmade gift for collectors of knitted toys, stuffed animals, and keepsake dolls. The finished set has the gentle look of boutique nursery decor and artisan toy shop favorites, while still being approachable for patient knitters who enjoy shaping, seaming, and delicate finishing.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: sport or light DK weight in warm cream
- Dress yarn A: dusty rose
- Dress yarn B: soft cream
- Capelet yarn: muted sage green
- Hat trim yarn: dusty rose
- Shoe yarn: dusty rose
- Mouse yarn: soft gray, pale sage, and muted lilac-gray
- Flower center yarn: pale yellow or soft beige
- Small amount of embroidery thread: dark brown or black for eyes, dusty brown for nose and mouth
- Toy stuffing
- Optional: small pellets or extra stuffing weight for the lower body
- Pair of small black safety eyes, or embroidered eyes if preferred
- Straight needles or DPNs suitable for knitting tightly with your yarn
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Waste yarn
- Very small button or knitted button nub for the basket flap if desired
Finished Size
The bunny is designed as a seated decorative doll with a tall, gentle silhouette. When worked in sport or light DK yarn at a firm gauge, the bunny itself measures about 13 to 15 inches tall from the top of the hat to the base of the shoes.
The seated width across the skirt is about 7 to 8 inches. The mouse companion is about 3 inches tall. The basket bag is very small, just large enough to read clearly as a prop beside the bunny.
Gauge and Fabric Style
Use a firm gauge so the stuffing does not show through. The image shows a smooth, even stockinette fabric with very little stretch left visible on the finished doll. A slightly tighter gauge than garment knitting gives the cleanest result.
If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. If it feels stiff but still workable, you are close to the right tension. The bunny should feel structured and plush, not floppy. The hat brim, skirt edges, and shoe soles should hold their shape well.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- inc = increase 1 stitch
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- rep = repeat
Design Notes
This set is built from separate pieces, then assembled carefully. The doll in the image has a large round head, a slim upper torso, narrow arms, long straight legs, softly drooping ears, puffed short sleeves, a paneled skirt, a cropped capelet, a deep rolled-brim bonnet, and rounded shoes with crisscross ties.
The clothing is not oversized. It sits close to the body and supports the doll’s upright seated shape. The floral trims are three-dimensional. They are small and clustered, not flat embroidered motifs. That detail matters because it gives the dress and hat their exact sculpted character.
Important Construction Order
- Knit the legs.
- Knit the body from lower torso upward.
- Knit the arms.
- Knit the head.
- Knit the ears.
- Knit the dress and separate sleeve portions.
- Knit the capelet and neck ties.
- Knit the bonnet and rose trim.
- Knit the shoes.
- Knit the basket bag, flower, and mouse.
- Assemble slowly and shape as you go.
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Legs
Make 2 in warm cream. The legs in the image are long, slim, and cylindrical with only slight widening near the thigh. They are not bent. They hang straight from beneath the skirt and end in rounded shoes.
CO 18 sts. Work 4 rows in 1×1 rib. This creates a neat upper leg edge that helps with joining and also prevents curling inside the body. Change to stockinette and work evenly for about 24 to 28 rows.
Begin very gentle shaping. Inc 1 st at each end of the next row, then work 7 rows even. Rep this increase round once more if needed. You want a soft increase only, enough to make the upper leg slightly fuller than the ankle.
Work until the leg measures the length you want, remembering that part of the top will sit inside the body. Stuff the lower two-thirds firmly, then soften the stuffing near the top so the leg can be sewn into the body without a hard ridge.
Leave a long tail for sewing if working flat. If working in the round, place stitches on waste yarn and repeat for second leg. Keep both legs equal in length, width, and stuffing density so the shoes sit evenly.
Body
The body is pear-shaped but restrained. It is not a big round tummy. The image shows a trim torso under the dress, with the skirt providing most of the width. Make the body as an inner support form for the dress.
CO 24 sts for the lower torso if working flat, or arrange equivalent stitches in the round. Work 4 rows in garter or seed-edge framing if you like a stable hem. Then begin stockinette and increase gradually across the next several rows until you have a softly rounded lower body.
A good target is 34 to 38 sts at the widest body point. Work evenly for 10 to 14 rows. The widest area should sit low, because the bunny appears seated with gentle weight at the bottom. Add a spoonful of pellets if desired before full stuffing.
Now decrease gradually to shape the waist. Decrease 1 stitch at each side every 4th row until about 24 to 26 sts remain. Work 8 to 10 rows even for the upper torso. This section should look slim and vertical to support the dress bodice and capelet.
Stuff the body firmly at the base and medium-firm through the waist. The top shoulder area should be stuffed enough to keep shape, but not so hard that head attachment becomes difficult. BO or leave live stitches depending on your preferred head join method.
Arms
Make 2 in warm cream. The arms are long and narrow, with slight fullness only near the upper sleeve area once the dress sleeves are added. The visible forearms in the image are slim and plain.
CO 14 sts. Work 3 rows in 1×1 rib or garter. Continue in stockinette for 20 to 24 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each side once near the upper arm. Work a few rows even. The arm should remain simple and tube-like.
Stuff lightly. The lower arm should be softly filled so it keeps shape but can still rest naturally beside the skirt. Flatten the top edge and close. Leave a long tail for sewing. Do not overstuff or the sleeves will look tight and bulky.
Head
The head is the main focal point. It is nearly spherical, slightly wider through the cheeks, with a smooth face and very gentle muzzle shaping. The nose area is subtle, not protruding like a strong snout. The eyes are small, dark, and widely spaced.
CO 24 sts. Work in stockinette and increase gradually over several shaping rows until you reach about 42 to 48 sts. Work evenly for enough rows to form the full center height of the head. This middle section must be generous so the face stays round rather than pointed.
Begin decreasing symmetrically. Keep the shaping smooth and even. Before closing, stuff very firmly. Add stuffing in small pieces, pushing extra into the side cheek areas. The face in the image is full and plush, with no hollows beside the mouth.
Close the head neatly. Using strong matching yarn, run a light gathering thread from crown to base if needed to refine the shape. The finished head should look round from the front and slightly oval from the side.
Face Shaping
Mark eye placement before sewing the head to the body. The eyes sit just above the midpoint of the face, spaced widely apart. The muzzle point sits centered below them. Use a little sculpting to create a very soft inward dip where the eyes sit.
For the nose and mouth, embroider a small Y-shaped rabbit expression in dusty brown. The center vertical stitch is short. The two lower mouth lines angle outward gently. Keep the expression sweet and minimal.
Ears
Make 2 in warm cream. The ears are long, soft, and drooping. They fall downward from beneath the bonnet brim. They are not upright and not sharply pointed. Each ear is wide at the base, then narrows gently to a rounded tip.
CO 16 sts. Work in stockinette, increasing 1 stitch at each side every 6th row twice. Work even for the main length. Then begin decreases at both sides every 4th row until the ear narrows to about 8 sts. Continue a little longer, then shape the tip with paired decreases.
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Do not stuff the ears. Steam lightly or finger-press them flat. Fold the base of each ear slightly before sewing so it curves naturally down from the side of the head. The ear length should reach to about the waist or upper skirt area once attached.
Dress Overview
The dress is one of the most important visual elements. It has a high bodice, soft puff sleeves, and a flared skirt divided into visible vertical sections. In the image, the front shows alternating dusty rose and cream panels, with a textured center transition line.
The skirt also carries three-dimensional floral clusters placed asymmetrically but balanced. One side holds a larger cluster near the hip and another near the lower skirt. The opposite side carries smaller trim clusters. Keep the arrangement delicate and garden-like.
Dress Skirt
Work the skirt separately from the inner body so the flare stays crisp. Use dusty rose and cream. You may work the skirt flat in vertical sections for best control over the panel layout.
CO enough stitches for the full lower skirt width. A practical count is 72 to 88 sts depending on yarn. Work 4 rows in garter for the hem. Then begin panel planning. Divide the front visually into four main vertical sections: dusty rose, cream, pale central rose or seam line, and dusty rose again.
To mimic the image, keep the very center line textured. You can create this by placing 2 to 4 reverse-stockinette or garter stitches at the front center transition. Work the rest in stockinette. Maintain clean color blocks rather than narrow stripes.
As the skirt rises, decrease gradually and evenly toward the waist. The flare should be moderate. The finished skirt must still stand out slightly over the seated legs, but not become bell-shaped. Work until the upper edge fits around the bunny’s waist comfortably.
Sew the back seam if worked flat. Test fit around the body before closing completely. The skirt length should reach just below the knees when the bunny is seated, leaving the cream legs clearly visible above the shoes.
Dress Bodice
Using the upper skirt stitches or by picking up around the waist edge, work the bodice upward in dusty rose. The bodice is narrow and mostly hidden under the capelet, but a front dusty rose center section remains visible.
Work straight for a few rows, then shape armholes gently. The neckline should be high and simple. Do not make a deep scoop. The front center visible panel should stay narrow so it looks like a tidy dress front beneath the green capelet ties.
Fasten the bodice snugly to the body. If desired, close it at the back. The image suggests a clean front with no visible buttons, so keep closures discreet and behind the doll.
Puff Sleeves
Make 2 in dusty rose. These sleeves are short, rounded, and softly full at the shoulder. They create a gentle puff but do not balloon dramatically. The lower edge is neat and slightly fitted over the upper arm.
CO 18 sts. Work 3 rows in a delicate edge of 1×1 rib or small garter. Increase evenly across the next row to about 24 sts. Work 8 to 10 rows in stockinette. Decrease a little at the upper edge, then gather or ease the top into the armhole.
The sleeve should sit like a rounded cap over the arm, extending only a short distance down. Sew carefully so the puff remains centered and symmetrical. A tiny picot-like effect can be suggested with a soft rolled lower edge, but keep it subtle.
Capelet
The sage green capelet is cropped and rounded, covering the shoulders and upper chest. It opens at the front and ties in two narrow cords. The front edges appear finished with a textured border that frames the opening cleanly.
CO enough stitches to fit from one front edge around the back neck to the other front edge. Work 4 rows in garter for a stable border, then continue in stockinette with garter or seed edging at both front edges.
Shape the capelet with a gentle increase toward the lower edge so it sits over the shoulders like a little petal collar. The finished length should end above the waist, leaving the dress bodice visible below it. This is important for matching the image.
BO neatly. Make two long I-cords or twisted ties in the same sage yarn. Sew them to the front neck edges and tie into a soft bow. The bow should be small and flat, not large or dramatic.
Bonnet
The bonnet is deep, rounded, and close-fitting, with a broad rolled brim. It covers the crown and frames the face while allowing the ears to fall beneath it. The overall shape is like a soft cloche bonnet rather than a floppy sun hat.
Work the bonnet in warm cream. Begin at the crown. CO or cast on a small number of stitches and increase regularly to form a shallow dome. Continue until the crown circle covers the top and upper sides of the head.
Then stop increasing and work straight for the side depth. Test fit often. The bonnet should sit low enough to shade the forehead slightly. Once the side depth is correct, create the brim by working several rows even, then a turning ridge if desired, then more rows to fold outward.
The brim in the image is soft, rounded, and not sharply stiff. A garter ridge at the fold line helps the brim roll naturally. Sew the bonnet to the head after the ears are positioned so it overlaps the ear bases and looks anchored.
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Bonnet Rose Trim
The bonnet carries a ring of dusty rose looped rose motifs around the brim edge. These are raised and evenly spaced. Make 8 to 10 small knitted rosettes or folded petal tabs, depending on the size of your bonnet.
For each motif, CO 8 sts in dusty rose. Work a few short rows in stockinette or garter, then gather tightly along the cast-on edge to form a petal cup. Alternatively, knit a narrow strip and coil it into a rosebud shape.
Sew the motifs in a regular line around the bonnet brim. Each one should tilt slightly upward. Keep spacing consistent. This trim is a defining feature, so take time arranging it before stitching permanently.
Shoes
The shoes are dusty rose Mary Jane style slippers with rounded toes and crisscross ankle ties. They sit firmly on the feet and show a cream foot opening at the top center.
Make 2. Begin with the sole. CO 10 to 12 sts and work in garter, increasing at each end for a few rows until the sole is an oval that matches the leg width. Work a second identical sole if you prefer a double-thickness base.
Pick up around or continue upward for the shoe body. Work in stockinette for a few rounds or rows, then begin toe shaping so the front rounds upward. Keep the top opening centered and fairly small.
The finished shoe should cover the toe, sides, and heel, leaving a shallow opening over the instep. Sew a narrow dusty rose cord or knitted strip as the strap detail that crosses in an X over the front of the ankle. Tie or sew neatly at the side.
Add a row of tiny purl texture or garter at the sole edge if you want the same softly defined outline seen in the image. Make sure both shoes match in opening shape and strap angle.
Floral Dress Embellishments
The dress flowers are not flat embroidered blossoms. They are plump little knitted petals gathered into small flower clusters. Make several five-petal and three-petal blossoms in dusty rose, pale blush, and cream.
For a small petal, CO 6 sts. Work 2 rows, increase near the center, work 2 rows, then decrease back down and BO. Make 3 or 5 petals and sew them together at the base. For a puffier effect, gather a tiny knitted circle instead.
Create one larger cluster for the bunny’s left side near the upper skirt. Make another cluster lower on the same side. Add smaller clusters on the right side near the hip and lower front edge. Keep the look balanced but not mirrored.
Stitch the flowers securely through the dress fabric only, not deep into the body stuffing. Let some petals lift slightly away from the surface. That dimensional finish matches the image much better than flat applique.
Flower Accessory
The separate flower lying beside the bunny is large compared with the dress blossoms. It has layered pink petals, a pale center, and two sage leaves. This piece may be sewn as a loose prop or attached lightly to the basket if desired.
Make two flower layers. For the back flower, knit 5 rounded petals in dusty rose. For the front flower, make 5 slightly smaller petals in a paler pink. Stack them with the smaller layer on top. Add a small pale yellow center circle.
For each leaf, CO 8 sts in sage. Increase to the middle, then decrease to a pointed oval. Sew the leaves beneath the flower at slight angles. The finished flower should look soft and plush, not flat and stiff.
Basket Bag
The tiny basket bag is worked in warm beige or oatmeal and sits beside the bunny’s left hand. It is boxy with a flap and a tiny nub closure. The scale is important. It should be visibly small next to the doll, like a miniature hand bag.
CO a small rectangle for the base. Pick up around all sides and work upward in seed stitch, garter, or a textured basket-like fabric. Keep the sides straight and structured. Lightly stuff or line with felt if you want the bag to hold shape.
For the flap, work a small attached rectangle and round the end slightly. Sew on a tiny knitted nub, embroidered knot, or miniature button at the front. Add a narrow side strap or handle if desired, but keep it delicate.
Mouse Companion
The tiny mouse is a second character and should be made with the same soft, even tension as the bunny. It has a rounded gray head, small ears, tiny limbs, a pale sage top with a white collar, and darker little shorts or lower body shaping.
Mouse Head
CO 16 sts in soft gray and knit a small rounded head just as you would for a tiny animal doll. Increase to about 24 to 28 sts, work a short center section, then decrease. Stuff firmly. Embroider a tiny pink nose and short mouth line.
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Add two small black eyes placed close but not crowded. The face should look timid and gentle. Make 2 tiny ears as half-circle shapes and sew them to the upper sides of the head.
Mouse Body
Work the lower body in muted lilac-gray. Start narrow, increase to a small pear shape, and stuff lightly. The upper torso can be pale sage, or you may knit a separate little sweater. The image reads as a sage top with a white petal collar.
For the collar, make a tiny white strip with shallow scallops or sew two small rounded flaps at the neck front. Keep it crisp and sweet. The mouse arms and legs are tiny tubes in gray. Add a thin tail if desired, though it is not strongly visible.
Assembly of Bunny Base
Sew the legs securely to the lower body, aligned evenly so the doll sits balanced. Check from the front that both legs hang straight and are spaced like the image. The gap between them should be small.
Attach the arms at the upper sides of the torso. Angle them slightly downward. The hands should rest around mid-skirt height. The left arm may be posed a little outward to sit beside the basket.
Sew the head onto the torso firmly. The neck should be short and stable, but not thick. Use extra hidden stitches around the join and add stuffing at the neck if needed. The face must look forward rather than tipped upward.
Attach the ears before final bonnet placement. Position them slightly behind the side face line so the brim frames the cheeks. Let them hang down naturally. Do not pull them tight or they will lose the soft droop visible in the image.
Dressing the Bunny
Place the skirt around the body and sew at the waist. Add the bodice neatly over the upper torso. Sew on the puff sleeves. Then fit the capelet over the shoulders and tie the front bow lightly.
Slide or sew the shoes onto the feet. Cross the ties in an X shape over the front of each ankle and secure at the sides. The crossed ties should be fine and elegant, never chunky. They are one of the details that gives the doll its refined look.
Set the bonnet onto the head last. Make sure the brim sits low but does not hide the eyes. Once you are happy with the angle, sew invisibly around the side and back edges. Then attach the dusty rose trim around the brim.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Check the entire silhouette before finishing. The bunny should have a large calm head, a neat slender torso, a dress that flares softly over the lap, and long straight legs ending in rounded shoes. Adjust stuffing by needle if any section looks uneven.
Recheck eye placement. If using embroidered eyes, make them tiny, vertical, and slightly oval. If using safety eyes, sink them gently with a little thread sculpting so the face stays soft. Embroider the nose and mouth in a light brown shade, never harsh black.
Add the dress flowers after the clothing is fixed in place. Arrange them in small garden clusters. Place the flower prop and basket beside the bunny. Sit the mouse on the opposite side so the whole set matches the balanced composition in the image.
Care Notes
- Display use is best for this piece because of the many small hand-sewn details.
- Keep away from prolonged direct sunlight to protect the gentle pastel shades.
- If giving to a child, consider embroidered eyes instead of safety eyes.
- Lift the bunny from the body, not by the hat, ears, or cape ties.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Both legs are the same length and evenly stuffed.
- Head is centered and secure.
- Ears droop evenly beneath the bonnet.
- Bonnet brim frames the face without covering the eyes.
- Capelet ties sit neatly in front.
- Dress panels are clearly defined in dusty rose and cream.
- Flower clusters are dimensional and balanced.
- Shoes match and ties cross evenly.
- Basket, flower, and mouse are scaled to the bunny.
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean gently with a soft cloth, cool water, and a very small amount of mild soap. Do not soak unless absolutely necessary, especially after full assembly. Press moisture out with a towel and reshape all pieces by hand.
Lay flat to dry away from heat and strong sun. Support the bonnet brim, ears, capelet edges, and flower petals while drying so they keep their intended form. Never hang the doll while wet because the weight can distort the body and clothing.
For long-term storage, wrap the bunny in clean tissue and place it in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags for extended periods. Keep embellishments from being crushed by leaving space around the hat trim, flowers, and mouse companion.
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Piece Summary
- 1 body
- 1 head
- 2 legs
- 2 arms
- 2 ears
- 1 skirt
- 1 bodice
- 2 puff sleeves
- 1 capelet
- 2 cape ties
- 1 bonnet
- 8 to 10 bonnet rose motifs
- 2 shoes
- Several dress flower clusters
- 1 separate flower accessory with 2 leaves
- 1 basket bag
- 1 mouse companion
Take your time with the finishing. This design depends less on difficult stitches and more on careful proportion, soft shaping, and patient placement of every small detail. When assembled thoughtfully, the result is a graceful knitted bunny with the same gentle garden charm, vintage sweetness, and collectible character shown in the image.
