Milkweed Honey-Sachet Bunny – Knitting

This charming hand-knit bunny set is designed to look like an heirloom nursery doll with refined cottage details and a softly vintage palette. The finished set includes the bunny, beret, capelet, dress, shoes, flowered satchel, tiny woodland companion, embroidered sachet pillow, and a cluster of milkweed stems. It suits knitters searching for a collectible rabbit doll, handmade baby shower gift, boutique nursery décor piece, or artisan stuffed animal pattern with realistic clothing and accessories that feel gift-worthy and beautifully styled.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a standing bunny with a rounded head, long side-hanging ears, a softly tapered body, straight arms, sturdy legs, and a calm embroidered face. The clothing is layered and important to the finished look, so the beret, petal collar, capelet, cream dress, satchel, shoes, and tiny props should all be made.

The visual style depends on smooth stockinette fabric, light shaping, neat finishing, and a restrained color story. The bunny is not overly thin and not overly plump. The silhouette is elegant, gentle, and slightly old-fashioned, with a dress that falls just below the knees and a short capelet resting at the upper arm.

The pattern below is written so the proportions closely match the image: a large rounded head, modest torso, long but compact arms, sturdy straight legs, and softly flattened feet that fit inside Mary Jane shoes. The ears are narrow, lightly padded, and attached low enough to fall beside the face.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: approximately 13 to 14 inches tall from sole to top of head, not including beret puff
• Woodland companion: approximately 4 inches tall
• Sachet pillow: approximately 2 inches tall
• Milkweed stems: approximately 3 to 5 inches long each
• Satchel bag body: approximately 2 1/4 inches wide

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport wool in warm oat-beige
• Dress yarn: cream or natural ivory fingering wool
• Capelet and satchel yarn: dusty rose and cocoa-brown fingering wool
• Trim yarn: soft ivory
• Floral embroidery yarn: muted olive, golden yellow, soft white, pale sage, and beige
• Beret yarn: same warm cream-beige as head or a shade slightly lighter
• Shoes: cream with taupe sole contrast
• Woodland companion yarn: medium brown, cream, soft taupe, olive, and tiny accent brown
• Fiberfill: fine stuffing for toys
• Weighted pellets: optional, for feet and lower body
• Knitting needles: double-pointed needles or magic loop sizes US 1.5 and US 2
• Tapestry needle
• Embroidery needle
• Removable stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Thin ribbon or strong cord: optional for internal neck support
• Small button beads or embroidered knots: for tiny companion coat if desired

Gauge

Gauge matters because the doll depends on firm fabric. Knit tightly enough that stuffing does not show through the stitches.

• US 2 needles in stockinette: 32 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches
• US 1.5 needles in stockinette: 34 stitches and 46 rounds = 4 inches

If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. The image shows a smooth, dense surface with very little gap between stitches.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• m1 = make 1 increase
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• ssk = left-leaning decrease
• sl = slip
• wyif = with yarn in front
• wyib = with yarn in back
• rep = repeat

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Construction Notes

The bunny is worked mostly in the round. Legs are made first, then joined for the body. The head is shaped directly above the body to avoid a weak neck seam. Arms and ears are sewn on later. Clothing is mostly separate so the layered look stays crisp and accurate.

Stuff firmly but gradually. The image shows a smooth head, straight limbs, and a body that is filled enough to stand supported by the feet, yet still soft. Avoid overstuffing the cheeks or the lower belly, or the dress will sit too tightly.

Facial expression is minimal. The eyes are tiny vertical black stitches, widely spaced, and placed low on the face. The nose and mouth form a small centered Y shape. This quiet face is essential to the overall character.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2 in warm oat-beige on US 1.5 needles.

1. CO 12 sts. Divide evenly and join for working in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 4: k all sts.
3. Rnd 5: k1, m1, k5, m1, k1, m1, k5, m1. 16 sts.
4. Rnds 6 to 10: k all sts.
5. Rnd 11: k1, m1, k7, m1, k1, m1, k7, m1. 20 sts.
6. Rnds 12 to 18: k all sts.
7. Begin calf shaping. Rnd 19: k2tog, k6, ssk, k2tog, k6, ssk. 16 sts.
8. Rnds 20 to 24: k all sts.
9. Work leg straight until piece measures about 3 1/4 inches from cast-on edge.

The legs in the image are straight, not chubby. Keep the stuffing firm at the ankle and calf. Add a little optional weight into the foot before stuffing fully.

Joining Legs and Lower Body

1. Place first leg on hold.
2. On second leg, knit 8 sts, CO 4 sts for bridge, knit across held leg 16 sts, CO 4 sts, knit remaining 8 sts of second leg. 40 sts total.
3. Place markers at side positions.
4. Rnds 1 to 6: k all sts.
5. Rnd 7: k to 2 sts before first bridge, k2tog, k across bridge, ssk; repeat at second bridge. 36 sts.
6. Rnds 8 to 10: k all sts.
7. Rnd 11: repeat decrease round. 32 sts.
8. Rnds 12 to 18: k all sts.

This creates a slim lower torso with enough width for the dress to fall naturally. Stuff the legs fully before moving upward. Add moderate stuffing through the body as you knit.

Upper Body and Shoulders

1. Rnds 19 to 24: k all sts.
2. Rnd 25: k6, k2tog, k8, ssk, k6, k2tog, k8, ssk. 28 sts.
3. Rnds 26 to 28: k all sts.
4. Rnd 29: k5, k2tog, k7, ssk, k5, k2tog, k7, ssk. 24 sts.
5. Rnds 30 to 32: k all sts.
6. Rnd 33: k all sts, increasing evenly to 28 sts for neck-to-head transition.

The body should look neat and slightly tapered, with soft shoulders rather than a square chest. The dress will cover most of the torso, but balanced shaping still matters.

Head

The head is large and rounded, slightly wider than the body and gently flattened near the crown. Continue from the body in warm oat-beige.

1. Rnd 1: k1, m1 around evenly to 36 sts.
2. Rnd 2: k all sts.
3. Rnd 3: increase evenly to 44 sts.
4. Rnd 4: k all sts.
5. Rnd 5: increase evenly to 52 sts.
6. Rnds 6 to 20: k all sts.

Begin stuffing the neck firmly, then continue filling the head evenly. Keep the face area smooth. Do not create hard cheeks. The image shows a calm oval-round face with only a slight muzzle suggestion.

1. Rnd 21: k11, k2tog, k24, ssk, k13. 50 sts.
2. Rnd 22: k all sts.
3. Rnd 23: k10, k2tog, k23, ssk, k13. 48 sts.
4. Rnds 24 to 26: k all sts.
5. Rnd 27: k6, k2tog around. 42 sts.
6. Rnd 28: k all sts.
7. Rnd 29: k5, k2tog around. 36 sts.
8. Rnd 30: k all sts.
9. Rnd 31: k4, k2tog around. 30 sts.
10. Rnd 32: k all sts.
11. Rnd 33: k3, k2tog around. 24 sts.
12. Rnd 34: k2, k2tog around. 18 sts.
13. Rnd 35: k1, k2tog around. 12 sts.
14. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and close tightly.

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Shape the head gently with your hands before closing. The crown should be smooth, with a soft central dome that sits well under the beret.

Arms

Make 2 in warm oat-beige.

1. CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Rnds 1 to 8: k all sts.
3. Rnd 9: increase evenly to 12 sts.
4. Rnds 10 to 24: k all sts.
5. Rnd 25: k2tog around. 6 sts.
6. Stuff lightly, flatten opening, and graft or sew closed.

The arms in the image are simple tubes with a gentle taper near the hand. They hang straight downward and are attached low enough to emerge from under the capelet.

Ears

Make 2 flat pieces, then seam lightly. The ears are long, narrow, and softly drooping, attached near the side of the head below the beret edge.

1. CO 8 sts flat.
2. Rows 1 and 2: k.
3. Row 3: k1, m1, k6, m1, k1. 10 sts.
4. Rows 4 to 18: work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row on WS.
5. Row 19: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
6. Rows 20 to 28: continue in stockinette.
7. Row 29: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
8. Row 30: purl.
9. Row 31: k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
10. Row 32: purl.
11. Row 33: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
12. Row 34: p2tog. Fasten off.

Make a second matching piece for each ear if you prefer doubled ears, or simply back the first piece with a lighter lining. Sew edges together with minimal stuffing. The ears should be softly padded, never thick or rigid.

Muzzle Shaping and Face Placement

Before sewing features, mark the center front of the head. The eyes should sit about 6 to 7 rounds below the top shaping decrease line and about 7 to 8 stitches apart. Use vertical satin stitches or tiny French-knot-like eye ovals in black.

For the nose, embroider a small inverted triangle with taupe-brown yarn one round below the eye line center. Extend a short vertical stitch downward, then embroider two tiny slanting mouth stitches to create a soft Y shape. Keep everything small.

The face in the image is understated. Do not add blush, long lashes, or a large snout. The quiet expression is one of the strongest design features.

Dress

The dress is cream, sleeveless under the capelet, and slightly flared. The hem carries a floral milkweed border in olive and honey tones. Work from hem upward so the border sits cleanly near the lower edge.

Using cream yarn and US 2 needles, CO 84 sts. Join carefully.

1. Rnds 1 to 4: k all sts.
2. Rnd 5: p all sts for a subtle turning ridge near hem if desired.
3. Rnds 6 to 10: k all sts.

Now work the embroidered-looking border using duplicate stitch later, or use simple stranded motifs if preferred. For the closest finish to the image, knit the dress plain first and add the floral border afterward with duplicate stitch.

1. Continue in stockinette until skirt measures 4 1/4 inches from cast-on edge.
2. Begin waist shaping. Decrease 8 sts evenly on next rnd. 76 sts.
3. Knit 6 rnds.
4. Decrease 8 sts evenly. 68 sts.
5. Knit 6 rnds.
6. Decrease 8 sts evenly. 60 sts.
7. Knit 5 rnds.

Separate for front and back arm openings.

1. Bind off 4 sts, knit 26, bind off 4 sts, knit 26.
2. Work back and front separately in rows.

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Back

1. Work 26 sts in stockinette for 8 rows.
2. Bind off center 8 sts for neck.
3. Work each shoulder separately, decreasing 1 st at neck edge twice.
4. Bind off remaining shoulder sts.

Front

1. Work 26 sts for 5 rows.
2. Bind off center 6 sts.
3. Work each side separately, decreasing 1 st at neck edge every RS row 4 times.
4. Work until front matches back shoulder height, then bind off.

Sew shoulders neatly. Pick up around armholes and neck with cream yarn if you want a tidy narrow edging. The image shows a very clean, simple upper dress, mostly hidden by collar and capelet.

Floral Hem Embroidery

The lower dress border is important. It resembles a scattered milkweed meadow worked in muted greens and creamy yellow. Use duplicate stitch and a few short embroidered straight stitches over the knitted fabric.

• Work irregular leafy clumps in olive and sage close to the hem
• Add tiny clustered blooms in honey yellow and pale cream
• Keep motifs low and horizontal so they read like a meadow border
• Do not space them too evenly; slight variation looks more natural

The image shows more green at the base with soft yellow blossoms rising just above it. Keep the motif delicate rather than bold.

Beret

The beret is soft, rounded, and generously slouched, but still scaled to the bunny head. It sits low on the forehead and covers the ear bases. Use light beige or oatmeal-cream.

1. CO 48 sts and join.
2. Rnds 1 to 6: k1, p1 rib.
3. Rnd 7: increase evenly to 72 sts.
4. Rnds 8 to 14: k all sts.
5. Rnd 15: increase evenly to 84 sts.
6. Rnds 16 to 22: k all sts.

Now shape crown.

1. Rnd 23: k10, k2tog around. 77 sts approximately; adjust to nearest repeat if needed.
2. Knit 1 rnd.
3. Next decrease rnd: k9, k2tog around.
4. Knit 1 rnd.
5. Continue in this way, reducing the plain knit count by 1 between decreases every other rnd.
6. When 14 to 16 sts remain, cut yarn and draw through.

Steam lightly over a towel and shape by hand so the cap forms a relaxed puff. The front rib edge should sit neatly above the eyes, not too high.

Petal Collar

The collar is made from individual cream petals with soft yellow centers, arranged around the neck like tiny blossoms. This detail is very visible and should not be skipped.

Make 8 small petals.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Row 1: k.
3. Row 2: p.
4. Row 3: kfb, k1, kfb. 5 sts.
5. Row 4: p.
6. Row 5: k1, kfb, k1, kfb, k1. 7 sts.
7. Row 6: p.
8. Row 7: ssk, k3, k2tog. 5 sts.
9. Row 8: p.
10. Row 9: ssk, k1, k2tog. 3 sts.
11. Row 10: p.
12. Row 11: k3tog. Fasten off.

Embroider a soft yellow center at the base of each petal. Arrange petals in a slightly overlapping ring and sew to a narrow knitted neckband or directly to the dress neckline under the capelet.

Capelet

The dusty rose capelet is short, gently flared, and finished with ivory trim. It opens at center front with no visible button. The soft drape is part of the silhouette, so do not make it stiff.

1. Using dusty rose, CO 52 sts flat.
2. Rows 1 to 4: garter stitch.
3. Row 5 RS: k all sts, increasing 8 sts evenly. 60 sts.
4. Rows 6 to 14: stockinette, keeping 3 edge sts in garter at both front edges.
5. Row 15 RS: k all sts, increasing 10 sts evenly. 70 sts.
6. Rows 16 to 24: continue as established.

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Shape shoulder slope lightly.

1. Next RS row: k3, ssk, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.
2. Repeat this decrease every 4th row 3 more times.
3. Work 2 rows even.
4. Bind off loosely.

With ivory, pick up around lower edge and front edges. Work 2 rows garter and bind off. Sew capelet around neckline so it sits just above the arms and parts softly at the center front.

Satchel Bag

The satchel is cocoa-brown with a flap, long strap, and tiny embroidered meadow flowers. It sits at the bunny’s left hip and crosses the body diagonally.

1. CO 16 sts in cocoa-brown.
2. Rows 1 to 18: stockinette, first and last stitch always knit for neat seaming.
3. Fold lower portion upward to form bag body, leaving top section for flap.
4. Round flap corners slightly by decreasing 1 st at each end of every RS row 3 times.
5. Work 4 more rows, then bind off.

Sew side seams. Make strap as an i-cord about 10 inches long or a narrow knitted strip 3 sts wide. Attach firmly from upper side edges so the bag hangs naturally across the front.

Decorate flap with tiny embroidered flowers and leaves in cream, yellow, and muted green. Keep motifs small and clustered, matching the sweet botanical style in the image.

Shoes

The shoes are Mary Jane style, cream on top with taupe-brown soles. They cover the lower foot and have a narrow strap crossing near the ankle.

Make 2 soles first in taupe.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: kfb, k6, kfb. 10 sts.
3. Row 2: p.
4. Row 3: kfb, k8, kfb. 12 sts.
5. Rows 4 to 10: work in stockinette.
6. Bind off.

Pick up around each sole with cream and work in the round or in short rows to form uppers.

1. Pick up about 24 sts around edge.
2. Work 3 rnds in stockinette.
3. Shape toe by decreasing evenly across front half every other rnd 3 times.
4. Work 2 rnds even.
5. Bind off back opening area if needed so shoe can slide onto foot.

For the strap, make a tiny 3-stitch i-cord or knitted strip and sew across the front opening. Secure with a decorative knot stitch or tiny button look. Slip shoes onto finished feet and tack in place invisibly.

Woodland Companion

This small companion resembles a tiny squirrel or chipmunk with a cream belly, warm brown body, small ears, and an olive leafy cap. It wears a pale taupe cardigan. Because it stands beside the bunny, its proportion matters. Keep it compact and upright.

Body and Head

1. Using warm brown, CO 8 sts and join.
2. Increase evenly over several rnds to 20 sts.
3. Work 8 rnds even for lower body.
4. Switch front center 6 sts to cream for belly panel if working intarsia-in-the-round style, or duplicate stitch later.
5. Increase evenly to 24 sts for chest and head transition.
6. Work 10 rnds even.
7. Decrease evenly every other rnd until 8 sts remain. Close tightly.

Stuff firmly enough for the figure to stand with support. Embroider tiny black eyes and a short nose-mouth shape. The ears are very small half-oval tabs sewn to the head.

Arms, Tail, and Ears

• Arms: make 2 tiny tubes over 6 sts, 8 rnds long
• Tail: make one slightly curved tube, 8 sts around, about 2 1/2 inches long, lightly stuffed
• Ears: make 2 small leaf-shaped pieces in brown and sew to crown sides

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Leaf Cap

Knit 4 small green leaves and join them into a cap-like rosette. Add a tiny brown stem nub at the center. Sew lightly to the top of the head so it sits like a little acorn or leafy crown.

Tiny Cardigan

Using pale taupe, CO 18 sts flat. Work a miniature open-front cardigan with garter borders, short body, and tiny sleeves or sleeve caps. Keep it simple. Add one tiny knot stitch or miniature button detail at chest height.

Honey Sachet Pillow

The small sachet pillow at the bunny’s feet is cream with a drawstring top and a tiny floral spray. It looks like a miniature linen herb pouch.

1. CO 14 sts in cream.
2. Work 20 rows in stockinette.
3. Fold in half and seam sides.
4. Lightly stuff with fiberfill or fragrant dried lavender inside an inner bag if desired.
5. Thread a fine twisted cord through top edge and tie.

Embroider one tiny stem with two olive leaves and a small pale yellow bloom on the front center. Keep the embroidery tiny and delicate.

Milkweed Stems

The botanical cluster includes several knitted stems in sage, olive, beige, cream, and muted yellow. These props complete the scene and should look softly dried, not bright or fresh.

• Make 3 to 5 stems as i-cords in olive or sage, 3 to 5 inches long
• Add leaf pairs by knitting small pointed leaves and sewing them along the stems
• Create seed pods using tiny almond-shaped knitted pieces in beige, olive, and mauve-taupe
• Add clustered blossoms with French knots or knitted nub groups in cream and honey tones

For a pod, cast on 3 sts, increase to 9 sts, work a few rows, then decrease back to 3 sts and close. Seam along side, stuff lightly, and attach to a stem. Make several in slightly different sizes for a natural arrangement.

Main Assembly

Sew the ears first. Place each ear low on the head, starting slightly below the beret brim line and a little behind the eye position. Let them fall downward close to the cheeks. The ears should not stick out sharply.

Sew the arms to the upper body at each side, hidden partly beneath the capelet. Angle them very slightly forward so the satchel can rest naturally against the body.

Dress the bunny in the cream dress, then arrange and sew the petal collar around the neck. Add the capelet over the collar so both are visible. Place the beret low and tack it at the sides and back.

Slip the shoes on and sew them discreetly to the feet. Add the satchel crossbody from right shoulder to left hip. Fill the satchel lightly so it keeps shape but remains soft.

Facial Detailing Placement Guide

• Eyes: tiny, black, vertical, calm, evenly spaced
• Nose: small brown triangle or satin wedge at center lower face
• Mouth: one short vertical line and two tiny slanting stitches
• Cheeks: no bright blush needed
• Head shape: smooth and rounded, no deep sculpting

The finished face should feel gentle and almost storybook-like, with very little contrast. This subtlety keeps the bunny close to the image.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

• The bunny body is beige, not pink or gray
• The dress is cream and softly flared, not gathered heavily
• The capelet is dusty rose with ivory edging
• The beret is neutral cream-beige and softly slouched
• The satchel is cocoa-brown with floral embroidery
• The hem border uses olive and honey floral tones
• The small companion is brown with a cream belly and pale coat
• The accessories should look muted, botanical, and heirloom-inspired

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once every piece is attached, check the posture from the front and both sides. The bunny should appear balanced, with the head centered, ears symmetrical, shoes level, and satchel resting slightly left of center. Adjust the beret so it frames the face softly.

Complete the face last. Keep the eyes tiny and the mouth short. After embroidering, gently massage the head so the stitches settle into the knitted fabric rather than sitting stiffly on top.

Care Notes

Handle the finished set as a decorative knitted doll rather than a rough-play toy. Lift it by the body, not by the ears, capelet, or satchel strap. Store the milkweed stems and sachet separately if the set will be displayed for a long time.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head round and smooth
• Ears sewn low and hanging down
• Dress hem embroidered
• Petal collar visible under capelet
• Beret sitting low and soft
• Shoes secured evenly
• Satchel embroidered and crossbody
• Woodland companion standing neatly
• Sachet pillow and milkweed stems completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean gently with cool water and a tiny amount of wool-safe soap. Do not twist, scrub, or machine wash. Press excess moisture into a towel and dry flat, reshaping the head, ears, capelet, and beret carefully.

For long-term storage, keep the doll away from direct sunlight, damp areas, and rough hooks or baskets that can catch the knitted stitches. Acid-free tissue and a breathable cotton bag work well for preserving the shape and color.