This sweet bunny is designed as a softly dressed heirloom knitted rabbit doll with a romantic bonnet, textured cardigan, floral dress, little shoes, and a tiny set of matching accessories. The finished set has the gentle look collectors search for in a handmade bunny doll, a nursery gift, or a keepsake stuffed rabbit. The shaping is calm and simple, but the layered details give it a polished boutique finish. Take your time with the floral trim and finishing, because those small touches create the same storybook feeling shown in the image.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Overview
This bunny has a large rounded head, a smaller pear-shaped body, long narrow ears, straight legs, simple rounded arms, and a very balanced seated-and-standing proportion. The clothing is an important part of the overall look, so the garments are not treated like optional extras. They define the design.
The main bunny is pale blush-beige. Over the cream dress sits a soft sage-green cardigan. The skirt is trimmed with raised pink protea-like blossoms and dusty green leaves. A matching floral collar sits at the neckline. The bonnet is ruffled, soft blush inside, and pale cream outside.
The accessory set includes a tiny knitted backpack, a slim buttoned purse, a small flower bouquet, and a miniature lamb toy wearing a plain dress. All pieces are scaled to the bunny and should look delicate rather than bulky.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport weight wool or wool blend in pale blush-beige.
- Dress yarn: cream for bodice, pale blush for hem and waistband shading, dusty rose, medium rose, and soft ivory for flower petals.
- Leaf yarn: muted sage or dusty green.
- Cardigan yarn: soft sage green.
- Bonnet yarn: pale cream and dusty rose.
- Shoes yarn: warm camel or honey tan.
- Accessory yarn: pale blush for backpack and purse, mixed rose and sage for bouquet, cream and blush for lamb.
- Needles: US 1 to 2 for most work, plus one size smaller for edges if needed.
- Double-pointed needles or magic loop: for narrow pieces worked in the round.
- Tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn, stuffing, pins.
- Eyes: two 6 mm to 8 mm black safety eyes or embroidered French-knot style eyes.
- Optional: light interfacing for purse flap, tiny button for purse, tiny bead or knot closure for backpack.
Gauge and Finished Size
Gauge: about 7 to 8 stitches per inch in stockinette after light blocking, using the yarn and needles that create a firm fabric. The fabric must be dense enough to hide stuffing.
Finished bunny size: about 12 to 14 inches tall from the top of the bonnet to the soles of the shoes. The body itself should feel slim and elegant, not chubby. The head should look noticeably larger than the torso.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- BO = bind off
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st = stitch
- sts = stitches
- inc = increase
- dec = decrease
- kfb = knit into front and back
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit two together
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
- sl = slip
- yo = yarn over
Construction Notes
- The bunny can be made fully in the round, but for the neatest dress silhouette and the easiest floral placement, the garments are best worked flat and seamed.
- The face depends on careful shaping more than heavy embroidery. Keep the muzzle soft and rounded.
- The ears are attached low at the sides of the head so they fall downward under the bonnet.
- The cardigan should be short, ending around the waistline, with soft rolled edges and no front closure.
- The floral border is made from separate knitted petals and leaves sewn in layers for depth.
Main Bunny
Legs Make 2
Using the pale blush-beige yarn, CO a narrow leg opening and work in the round. Start with a simple folded hem or plain edge. Knit straight for the ankle and lower leg. The legs in the image are slim, even, and lightly stuffed, with almost no dramatic calf shaping.
Increase only slightly through the upper leg so the legs remain straight. Each leg should end in a softly rounded top that can be joined into the body. Leave a long tail on the first leg. Complete the second leg but do not cut the yarn.
Stuff the legs firmly at the feet and ankle, then more lightly toward the top. They should hold their line without looking stiff. Keep the uppermost inch less stuffed so it joins smoothly into the torso and lets the dress fall naturally.
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Body
Join both legs onto one needle and work around all stitches for the lower body. Place markers at the side edges. The body is small compared with the head, so avoid over-expanding. Work a few increase rounds, then knit even to form a gentle hip line.
The bunny’s torso in the image looks softly pear-shaped, widest near the lower body and narrowing toward the shoulders. Achieve that with very gradual decreases spaced over several rounds. The chest should stay smooth because the dress bodice will sit cleanly over it.
Stuff the body as you work. Keep the lower body firmly stuffed so the bunny stands with support. The upper body should be medium-firm, not hard. Shape the shoulder line with balanced decreases at front and back, then BO or draw closed depending on your preferred joining method.
Arms Make 2
Using main bunny yarn, CO a small cuff and work each arm in the round or flat. The arms are short, tubular, and simple. They taper very gently from upper arm to wrist, with a rounded hand end and no separate fingers.
Stuff each arm lightly. The hands should remain soft and slightly flattened. Sew the arms high on the sides of the body so they angle downward naturally. In the image, the arms sit low enough to peek from the cardigan sleeves, but high enough to preserve a childlike shoulder line.
Head
The head is the focal point. It is large, nearly spherical, but slightly taller than it is wide. Work from the neck upward or from the crown downward, whichever you prefer, as long as the shaping remains symmetrical and smooth.
Increase evenly until the head reaches full width. Knit several rounds plain to create the broad cheek area. The face in the image shows a centered vertical contour running from forehead to nose, so plan a subtle sculpted seam or embroidered shaping line after stuffing.
Decrease gradually toward the crown. Stuff very firmly so the head stays smooth under the knitted surface. Before fully closing, check the profile. The face should project slightly at the muzzle, but not in a sharp snout. It must look calm, soft, and round.
Muzzle and Face Sculpting
Using matching yarn, lightly sculpt the face. Pull a soft vertical line from upper forehead into the nose area. Create a small triangular nose point at the center lower face, then continue with a short split line to suggest the mouth. The mouth in the image is understated and sweet.
Place the eyes wide apart and slightly above the center of the muzzle. They are very small compared with the head. This spacing is important. If the eyes are too large or too close together, the bunny will lose the quiet antique character seen in the image.
Embroider the nose and mouth using a slightly darker taupe-blush thread if desired, but keep the contrast low. The nose should look like a soft stitched wedge. Add tiny eye dents if needed by drawing thread from the back of the head to the eye points.
Ears Make 2
CO for long, narrow ears in the main bunny color. Work flat in stockinette with neat edge stitches. The ears should begin modestly wide at the base, then narrow slowly to rounded tips. They are not wire-stiff and not oversized. They hang straight down beside the face.
Do not overstuff the ears. In fact, leave them unstuffed. Light steaming is enough. Fold the lower edge of each ear slightly when attaching so the ear begins with a natural drop from the side of the head. Sew them low, just below the crown line.
Dress
Dress Design Notes
The dress is one of the most distinctive features of this bunny. The bodice is pale cream and fitted, while the skirt widens softly and finishes with a deep blush hem carrying layered floral motifs. At the neckline is a smaller matching floral arrangement.
To match the image, use a smooth knitted base with separately attached petals and leaves. This creates the raised dimensional effect visible on both the collar and the skirt. Intarsia alone will look too flat. Small embroidered accents may be added, but the petals themselves should be knitted pieces.
Bodice
Using cream yarn, CO for the front bodice and work upward or downward depending on preference. The bodice should be simple stockinette with a smooth finish. Shape lightly at the armholes if working as a complete dress. If you prefer, work front and back separately and seam at the shoulders.
The neckline should be round and modest. Keep it neat because the floral collar sits directly on it. The arm openings must allow the short cardigan sleeves to rest comfortably over them. The fit should be close to the bunny’s body without looking tight or stretched.
Skirt
Pick up or join yarn at the waist and begin the skirt. Add gentle increases around the first portion of the skirt to create the full bell shape shown in the image. The skirt should spread outward but still drape straight enough that the floral border remains visible all around.
Work the central skirt in pale cream shading into soft blush toward the lower section if desired. The original image gives a faintly blended look, so a subtle change in tone is helpful. Finish with a blush hem band worked in garter or seed edge to keep it stable.
The final skirt length should fall well below the knee and end above the shoes, leaving the lower legs visible. This proportion matters. The dress is long and graceful, but not floor length. The bunny must still look childlike and tidy.
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Waistline Finish
The waist is softly defined, not cinched. Add one plain purl ridge or a very narrow waistband line where the bodice meets the skirt. This gives visual separation without creating bulk. Keep the dress easy to slip on if you want it removable, or sew it permanently in place.
Large Skirt Flowers
Make enough flower units to circle the lower skirt. The image shows a repeating border of tall blossoms in dusty pink, rose, and ivory, each sitting above a pair of muted green leaves. These blossoms resemble stylized protea or tulip forms with layered inner and outer petals.
For each flower, knit several petal shapes separately. Make two larger dusty rose outer petals, two medium blush side petals, and one or two inner ivory petals. Each petal can be made by CO a few stitches, increasing to the center width, then decreasing to a tapered top.
Do not make the petals too flat. Slightly cup each one with steam and finger shaping. Arrange the larger petals first, then overlap the side petals, then place the ivory center on top. Stitch securely only at the lower third so the upper petal edges remain softly raised.
Make two leaves per flower in sage green. Each leaf should be narrow with a pointed tip and a central vein effect created with one purl column or a backstitch after knitting. Sew the leaves first, then place the petals over them. Repeat evenly across the hem.
Neckline Floral Collar
The collar is made from smaller versions of the skirt flowers. Create one central blossom and two side blossoms, each built from layered petals. Add small sage leaves tucked under the flowers. The collar should sit on the front neckline only, not wrap all the way around.
Position the central flower directly below the neck opening. The side flowers angle slightly outward toward each shoulder. This small arrangement echoes the large hem border and ties the whole design together. It is one of the details that makes the dress look finished.
Cardigan
Shape and Fit
The cardigan is short, soft sage green, and open at the front. It reaches just below the waist and has a slightly boxy but still gentle shape. The sleeves are full enough to fit over the bunny’s arms, yet not puffy. The fronts curve down naturally when left unfastened.
Work the cardigan flat from the lower edge upward. Use a textured vertical band along the front openings and a matching hem edge. This can be done with seed stitch, moss stitch, or narrow rib, depending on the finish you prefer. The image suggests a subtle textured trim.
Back
CO for the back width and work to underarm length. Shape only lightly at the armholes. Continue to the shoulder line and create a shallow back neck. The shoulders are small because the cardigan sits on a compact upper body beneath the large head and bonnet.
Fronts
Work each front separately. Begin with the front trim edge built in. Keep the neckline open and soft. The cardigan in the image has no buttons, ties, or closures, so the front edges should simply meet loosely or sit slightly apart over the floral collar.
Sleeves
CO for each sleeve cuff and work upward. The sleeves are bracelet length to short full length, ending just above the bunny’s wrist area. They look relaxed rather than fitted. Add a few increases through the sleeve, then cap gently for set-in attachment or sew as simple straight sleeves.
Once assembled, the cardigan should frame the dress without hiding the neckline flowers. That balance is important. If needed, tack the cardigan at the shoulders or side seam area so it stays neatly in place.
Bonnet
Bonnet Base
The bonnet frames the head closely and sits low enough to shade the forehead. Work the crown and side pieces in pale cream. Shape it to cup the top and back of the head while leaving the long ears free to fall downward underneath.
You can make the bonnet in one shaped piece or as a center strip with side sections. The back should fit snugly but not tightly. Test it on the head before final finishing. The bonnet should feel soft and slightly gathered at the edge rather than stiff.
Ruffle
The image shows a generous ruffled brim with pale cream on the outside and dusty rose visible within the folds. To achieve this, pick up stitches around the bonnet opening and work a double-tone ruffle. Alternate short stripes or use one color on the public side and another inside edge.
Increase steadily across the first few ruffle rows so the brim waves naturally. Avoid too much flare. The ruffle should frame the face in rounded undulations, not sharp frills. Bind off loosely so it does not pull inward.
Bonnet Ties
The ties are not clearly prominent in the image, so keep them minimal. A short i-cord or narrow knitted tie at each side is enough. They may be left untied or loosely crossed beneath the chin. Do not make them long or decorative.
Shoes Make 2
The shoes are warm honey-tan and resemble tiny Mary Jane style slippers. Begin at the sole with a flat or oval base. Pick up around and work the sides upward. Shape the toe with decreases so the front rounds softly without becoming pointed.
For the strap effect, create a small opening at the instep or sew a narrow band across the top. The shoes in the image have a simple, old-fashioned look. Keep them smooth and low, with a neat edge around the opening. Lightly stuff the toe if desired.
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Backpack
The backpack is knitted in pale blush and sits upright with a flap top. Work a small rectangular pouch, seam the sides, and add a flat base if desired. The flap should be rounded or softly squared. One tiny bead, embroidered knot, or short loop can suggest the closure.
Add two narrow straps at the back and a carrying loop at the top. The bag should look miniature but functional, scaled for the bunny’s hand or shoulder. Do not overstuff it. A little tissue or wool scrap is enough to hold its shape.
Buttoned Purse
This small accessory looks like a slim folded purse or notebook case. Knit a rectangle in pale blush, fold it into thirds, and seam the sides. Add a flap or overlapping front. Sew on one tiny button to match the image. The purse should stay flatter than the backpack.
Flower Bouquet
The bouquet includes several rose-blush buds with muted green stems and leaves. Make each flower as a tiny bud: a small knitted petal strip rolled tightly, or a short pointed petal pair gathered at the base. Attach each to a stem made from twisted yarn or tightly knitted cord.
Bundle three to five stems together. Wrap the lower stems with matching yarn to hold the bouquet. Keep the finished bouquet narrow and delicate. It should look like a hand-picked miniature arrangement rather than a full floral bunch.
Mini Lamb
Lamb Body
The little lamb is a separate tiny toy and should feel very simple compared with the bunny. Use cream or soft white yarn. Work a small cylindrical body with a rounded lower edge and a short neck. The body can be lightly stuffed, but keep it soft.
Head
Make a small cream head, slightly oval, with tiny ears at the sides. Embroider two small dark eyes and a neat nose-mouth combination. The lamb’s expression should be very minimal. It is a companion piece, so it should not compete with the bunny for attention.
Arms and Legs
Work two tiny arms and two tiny legs as narrow tubes or cords. Attach them evenly. The limbs are short and almost peg-like in the image. They should dangle softly, not stand out stiffly.
Lamb Dress
Knit a plain pale blush dress for the lamb. It is a basic sleeveless or short-sleeved tube with a slightly wider lower edge. No heavy trim is needed. The lamb should look quietly coordinated with the main bunny’s palette.
Assembly Order
- Sew and stuff legs, body, arms, and head.
- Attach head firmly to body.
- Attach arms at shoulder line.
- Sew ears to the head.
- Complete facial sculpting and embroidery.
- Dress the bunny in the bodice and skirt.
- Add floral hem border and floral neckline cluster.
- Sew cardigan seams and place cardigan on bunny.
- Fit and attach bonnet if desired.
- Make and place shoes.
- Complete backpack, purse, bouquet, and lamb.
Detailed Placement Notes
- Head to body ratio: the head should look broad and prominent, close to the width of the skirt’s upper section.
- Ear placement: slightly behind the face centerline so the bonnet ruffle stays visible.
- Arm placement: just below the neck seam, angled down.
- Dress length: below knee, above shoes.
- Cardigan length: waist length, not covering the skirt border.
- Bonnet ruffle: soft waves around the face, not overly gathered.
- Skirt flowers: evenly spaced and facing upward, each with visible leaf base.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Once all major pieces are attached, step back and compare the proportions before securing the accessories. Check that the head sits straight, the ears fall evenly, and the cardigan frames the floral neckline rather than covering it. A tiny shift at this stage makes a big visual difference.
For the face, keep every line soft. The eyes should be tiny, dark, and calm. The nose should be centered and modest, with a short stitched mouth line. If desired, add a barely visible blush using a dry textile-safe tint, but keep it extremely light.
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Care Notes
- Spot clean first whenever possible.
- Handle the floral appliqués gently during washing.
- Do not wring the bunny or the accessories.
- Reshape the bonnet ruffle, cardigan, and skirt while damp.
- Dry flat away from direct heat and sun.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Are both eyes level and evenly spaced?
- Does the head feel firm and smooth?
- Do the ears fall at the same angle?
- Is the dress centered and the hem even?
- Are the skirt flowers balanced around the front?
- Does the cardigan end at the right height?
- Does the bonnet frame the face neatly?
- Are the shoes aligned and secure?
- Do the accessories match the scale of the bunny?
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
For long-term care, store the bunny in a clean, dry place with stable airflow. Avoid hanging it by the ears, bonnet, or cardigan. If displayed upright, support the body so the neck does not carry too much weight over time.
If you need a deeper clean, hand wash briefly in cool water with a mild wool-safe cleanser. Press out moisture in a towel, then reshape the head, skirt, petals, and ruffle carefully. Let every piece dry fully before storing or displaying again.
For heirloom storage, wrap the bunny in acid-free tissue and keep accessories in a separate soft pouch so the button, bouquet stems, and tiny bag parts do not snag the dress flowers. This will help preserve both the color and the sculpted finishing details.
