Bluebell Beelet Bunny – Knitting

This sweet heirloom-style bunny is designed as a collectible soft toy with a woodland dress, a lilac cardigan, a flower-trimmed bonnet, a crossbody satchel, and a tiny bee companion. The look feels perfect for shoppers searching for knitted bunny doll, heirloom rabbit toy, handmade nursery gift, collectible stuffed rabbit, and artisan knitted doll pattern. The finished piece is gently vintage, highly detailed, and intentionally styled to match the image with a long cream bunny body, drooping ears, bluebell borders, leafy hem shaping, embroidered shoes, and a miniature bee friend that hangs from the bunny’s hand.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern is written to recreate the full scene shown in the image as closely as possible. The main bunny is knitted in soft neutral tones with a slightly oversized head, long ears, slim arms, long straight legs, and a gentle pear-shaped silhouette once dressed.

The clothing is part of the character design, not an afterthought. The green dress sits high at the bodice, widens into a generous skirt, and falls lower at the back. The underside of the back hem shows a leaf-like lace texture. A bluebell-inspired colorwork border runs around the skirt near the lower edge.

The lilac cardigan is cropped and rounded at the front edges. The bonnet frames the face in cream, with small lavender and blue flowers knitted separately and attached around the outer edge. A small tan satchel with a ribbon bow crosses the body. The tiny bee companion wears a yellow hooded outfit and carries a golden honey drop.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: Fingering or light sport weight wool or wool-blend in warm cream.
• Dress yarn: Fingering or light sport weight in mossy sage green, medium blue, light blue, and a touch of dark green for floral stems if desired.
• Cardigan yarn: Fingering or light sport weight in soft lilac.
• Bonnet flower yarn: Small amounts of lilac, lavender, periwinkle blue, and pale green.
• Satchel yarn: Light brown or camel.
• Bee companion yarn: Cream, yellow, brown, black, and a tiny amount of warm gold.
• Needles: 2.25 mm and 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or long circulars for magic loop. Use the smaller needle for the bunny and small accessories, and the larger needle for garments if needed to keep fabric flexible.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn, polyester toy stuffing, black embroidery thread, brown embroidery thread, pale green embroidery thread, thin ribbon in blush or beige, and optional tiny black safety eyes if you prefer not to embroider eyes.

Gauge and Finished Size

Gauge for toy fabric: about 32 to 34 stitches and 44 to 48 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette worked firmly in the round on smaller needles.

Gauge for garments: about 28 to 30 stitches over 4 inches in stockinette on slightly larger needles.

The main bunny measures approximately 14 to 16 inches tall from the top of the bonnet to the soles of the shoes when finished. The bee companion measures about 4 inches tall.

Exact size is less important than proportion. Keep the toy fabric dense enough that stuffing does not show through.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch using your preferred neat method
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• m1L / m1R = make 1 left / right
• BO = bind off
• rep = repeat

General Construction Notes

The bunny is worked mostly in the round for a smooth toy finish. Legs are knitted first, then joined for the body. The head is shaped directly above the body. Arms and ears are made separately and sewn in place.

The face shaping matters. The muzzle is formed with soft horizontal and vertical embroidery tension, not hard sculpting. The eyes are very small and widely spaced. The nose is stitched as a tiny inverted triangle with a soft split mouth beneath it.

The garments are removable if you prefer. For the closest visual result, lightly tack the dress and cardigan at the shoulders and under the arms after dressing the bunny.

Main Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 18 sts. Join carefully to work in the round.
2. Work 28 rnds in stockinette for the lower leg.
3. Increase evenly to 22 sts over the next rnd.
4. Work straight for 34 more rnds, or until each leg is long and slender, matching the image.
5. Stuff the lower portion firmly, but keep the top 1 inch lightly stuffed so the legs can sit naturally under the dress.
6. Leave the stitches of the first leg on waste yarn. After finishing the second leg, do not break yarn.

The legs in the image are long, narrow, and mostly straight. Avoid heavy thigh shaping. The charm comes from the length and simplicity.

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Joining the Legs and Lower Body

1. Place both legs side by side with inner-leg centers facing each other.
2. Knit across the second leg, CO 4 sts for the crotch bridge, knit across the first leg, CO 4 sts for the back bridge. You now have 52 sts.
3. Work 6 rnds even.
4. On the next rnd, place markers at each side. Increase 1 stitch on each side of both front and back sections, 4 sts total.
5. Work 3 rnds even.
6. Rep the increase rnd once more. You now have 60 sts.

This creates a gently widening lower torso. The bunny underneath the dress remains slim, but the body should support the clothing and head well.

Torso

1. Work even for 26 rnds.
2. Begin subtle waist shaping: k2tog once at each side marker and ssk once just before each side marker, decreasing 4 sts total.
3. Work 4 rnds even.
4. Rep this decrease rnd twice more. You now have 48 sts.
5. Work 10 rnds even for the upper torso.
6. Stuff the body firmly, especially around the hips and lower torso, keeping the neck area less stuffed for shaping control.

The finished torso should be softly cylindrical with only slight narrowing toward the chest. Since the bunny wears a dress, overly dramatic body shaping is unnecessary.

Neck

1. Decrease evenly to 36 sts.
2. Work 8 rnds even.
3. Stuff the neck very firmly. A stable neck is essential because the head is large and the bonnet adds visual volume.

Head

1. Increase evenly to 48 sts.
2. Work 6 rnds even.
3. Increase evenly to 60 sts.
4. Work 8 rnds even.
5. Increase evenly to 72 sts.
6. Work 18 rnds even.

At this stage, the head should look large, rounded, and slightly taller than it is wide. Begin stuffing as you go, packing the lower head more firmly than the face area.

1. To shape the upper head, decrease evenly to 60 sts.
2. Work 4 rnds even.
3. Decrease evenly to 48 sts.
4. Work 3 rnds even.
5. Decrease evenly to 36 sts.
6. Finish stuffing, making the crown smooth.
7. Decrease evenly to 18 sts, thread yarn through remaining stitches, and close.

Face Shaping

The face is one of the most important parts of this design. The image shows a narrow, gentle muzzle with a soft vertical line down the center and a tiny stitched mouth.

• Using strong matching cream yarn, insert the needle at the neck opening and bring it out where the left side of the muzzle should sit.
• Take a small horizontal stitch across the muzzle area and reinsert on the right side.
• Repeat once or twice, pulling very lightly to form the rounded muzzle pads.
• Create a subtle vertical indentation from mid-face down to the nose position.
• Do not over-sculpt. The expression should remain calm and soft.

Eyes, Nose, and Mouth

The eyes are tiny, dark, and set fairly wide apart. They sit slightly above the midpoint of the muzzle shaping. Use either very small black safety eyes or satin-stitched embroidered eyes.

• Place the eyes about 10 to 12 stitches apart.
• Angle them very slightly upward at the outer edge for a gentle expression.
• Embroider the nose in brown as a small inverted triangle.
• From the bottom point of the nose, work a short vertical stitch downward.
• Add a tiny split mouth with one short stitch to each side.

Keep the face minimal. The elegance of the bunny comes from restraint.

Ears

Make 2 in cream. The ears are long, flat, and droop well below the bonnet edge.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work flat in stockinette with garter edge stitches for neat finishing.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end every 4th row 4 times. You now have 18 sts.
4. Work even until the ear measures about 6 1/2 to 7 inches long.
5. Shape the tip by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every RS row until 6 sts remain.
6. Knit 1 WS row.
7. BO.

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Lightly steam or block flat. Fold the base slightly before sewing so the ears fall backward and outward, as shown in the image.

Arms

Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 14 sts and join in the round.
2. Work 10 rnds even for the paw and hand area.
3. Increase evenly to 16 sts.
4. Work 28 rnds even.
5. Increase evenly to 18 sts for the upper arm.
6. Work 10 rnds even.
7. Stuff lightly, especially near the hand.
8. Flatten the opening and close with three-needle BO or sew closed later.

The arms should be soft, narrow, and slightly bendable. Do not stuff them too firmly or they will sit stiffly outside the cardigan.

Shoes

Make 2 beginning at the sole in light brown, then continue in cream.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Knit 1 row.
3. Increase at each end every RS row until 14 sts are on the needle.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Shape a simple slipper sole by decreasing at each end every RS row until 10 sts remain.
6. Pick up stitches evenly around the sole edge and work 4 rnds in light brown to form the narrow sole trim.
7. Change to cream and work short rows or gentle toe shaping to cover the front of the foot.
8. Continue for 6 to 8 rnds to form the slipper body.
9. BO loosely around the ankle.

Embroider pale green vines and tiny leaves over the shoe tops. Add a narrow ankle strap line if desired. The image shows delicate botanical embroidery rather than bulky decoration.

Dress Bodice

Work from the top down in sage green so you can control skirt length.

1. CO 44 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib.
3. Switch to stockinette and shape very lightly for armhole depth with short rows or by working the front and back separately for 10 rows.
4. Join again and work in the round if preferred, increasing evenly to 56 sts.
5. Work 10 rnds even.

The upper dress in the image is simple and smooth. It sits neatly under the cardigan and does not have bulky sleeves.

Dress Skirt Shaping

1. Increase 8 sts evenly on the next rnd.
2. Work 6 rnds even.
3. Increase 8 sts evenly again.
4. Work 8 rnds even.
5. Increase 10 sts evenly.
6. Work 8 rnds even.
7. Increase 10 sts evenly once more.

Continue in this pattern until the skirt is broad and drapey, ending with approximately 92 to 104 sts depending on your gauge and desired fullness. The front should fall around calf level on the bunny. The back must extend longer to create the dramatic sweep seen in the image.

Bluebell Border Chart Guidance

The lower dress features a repeated floral motif in medium and light blue. Since the flowers are small and stylized, work them as simple stranded shapes or duplicate stitch after knitting the skirt.

For the closest look, place the motifs in repeating triangular clusters. Each cluster should suggest upright flower spikes rising from a low dark green or sage base.

• Use a repeat width of about 8 to 10 stitches per cluster.
• Work medium blue for the deeper flowers.
• Add light blue near the tops and edges to soften the motif.
• Keep floats loose but neat.
• If duplicate stitch feels easier, knit the skirt plain first and add the flowers afterward.

After the border, work 4 to 6 rnds in sage green before finishing the front hem.

Asymmetrical Dress Hem

To match the image, the front hem remains shorter and smooth, while the back hem lengthens and reveals a leafy lace underside.

1. Mark the center front and center back.
2. For the front half of the skirt, BO loosely after the floral border and a few plain rounds.
3. For the back half, continue working back and forth on the remaining stitches.
4. Increase slightly across the first back row if needed so the fabric fans out.

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Leaf Lace Back Underskirt

The visible underside at the back looks like elongated leaf columns. Work a simple repeated lace panel to echo that shape.

Example repeat across the back section:

• Row 1 RS: k2, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
• Row 2 WS: purl.
• Row 3 RS: k2, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k2.
• Row 4 WS: purl.
• Continue widening the central knit section for several repeats, then narrow again to form a leaf impression.

Work this textured extension until the back length sits clearly lower than the front by about 2 to 2 1/2 inches. BO loosely.

Cardigan

Work flat in lilac. The cardigan is short, open-front, and slightly rounded at the lower edges. Sleeves are simple and roomy enough to sit over the slender arms.

1. CO enough stitches for back and two fronts combined, approximately 52 to 58 sts depending on gauge.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Set up raglan shaping or simple drop-shoulder shaping.
4. Work until the yoke reaches the underarm depth needed for the bunny.
5. Separate sleeves and body.
6. Work the body flat for a cropped length, shaping each front edge into a gentle curve by decreasing near the lower edge every few rows.
7. Finish all edges in garter stitch or narrow rib.

For each sleeve, pick up stitches around the armhole or work separately and sew in. The sleeves should end just above the paws, as shown.

Add tiny blue floral motifs near the lower sleeves and at the front edges using duplicate stitch. Keep them sparse and delicate. The cardigan in the image is decorative but not busy.

Bonnet

The bonnet frames the face closely and ties beneath the chin area, though the ties are mostly hidden. It has a rounded crown and a softly rolled face edge.

1. CO 64 sts in cream.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Continue in stockinette, shaping the back of the bonnet with short rows or center-back decreases so it cups the head.
4. Work until the bonnet reaches from one lower cheek side around the crown to the other lower cheek side.
5. Pick up stitches around the face opening and work 4 to 6 rnds or rows in stockinette, then BO in a way that lets the edge roll naturally outward.

Sew the back seam neatly. The bonnet should sit low enough to frame the forehead and ears without covering the eyes.

Bonnet Flowers

These tiny flowers create the crown-like trim seen around the bonnet edge. Make 7 to 9 small bell flowers total in mixed lavender and blue tones.

For each flower:

1. CO 12 sts in the flower color and join in the round.
2. Work 2 rnds of k1, p1 rib or tiny gathered texture.
3. Decrease evenly to 8 sts.
4. Work 1 rnd even.
5. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull lightly so the flower forms a small bell shape.

Make a tiny green base or stem cap for each flower using 3 or 4 stitches worked for a few rows. Sew the flowers around the bonnet edge with some pointing upward and some angled outward. Alternate blue and lilac for the same airy look as the image.

Crossbody Satchel

Work in camel or light brown.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Work 20 rows in garter stitch or firm stockinette with a slipped edge.
3. Fold into a rectangle and sew the sides.
4. Work a separate flap if desired, or simply embroider the flap outline on the front to match the picture.
5. Embroider a tiny dark motif on the front, such as a simple musical-note-like mark or decorative line.
6. Knit or twist a long narrow cord for the strap and sew it from upper side to upper side.

Tie a soft ribbon bow at one side of the satchel where it sits near the bunny’s waist. Let the satchel rest slightly off center at the front.

Lavender or Bluebell Bouquet

The image shows a small clustered bouquet tucked near the satchel side. This can be made from tiny knitted bobbles or wrapped knots attached to green stems.

• Create 6 to 8 tiny purple and blue bobbles.
• Attach each to a thin green i-cord or embroidered stem.
• Gather and sew the bouquet to the dress side seam area or lightly tack it to the cardigan edge.

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Tiny Bee Companion Body

Work from the legs upward in brown and yellow.

1. CO 6 sts for each leg in brown. Work 8 rnds.
2. Join legs with 2 bridge stitches between them.
3. Work 6 rnds in brown for the lower body.
4. Change to yellow and work 4 rnds.
5. Work 2 rnds in brown or black for a narrow stripe.
6. Return to yellow and work 4 rnds.
7. Stuff lightly.
8. Decrease at the waist if needed, then continue upward in cream for the head.

The bee doll is tiny and simplified. Keep the limbs short and slightly dangling.

Tiny Bee Head and Hood

1. For the head, increase gradually to a small rounded shape of about 18 to 22 sts total.
2. Work a few rounds even, then decrease and close after stuffing.
3. Embroider tiny eyes and a subtle mouth.

For the hood, work in pale yellow:

1. CO enough stitches to frame the face.
2. Work a tiny bonnet shape with a rounded crown.
3. Add two short dark antennae at the top corners.
4. Sew the hood around the face snugly.

Make a tiny yellow skirt or petal-like lower dress by increasing from a narrow waistband, then shaping pointed segments or simple shallow scallops.

Honey Drop Accessory

Work a tiny golden teardrop.

1. CO 4 sts and work as a miniature tube or tiny flat shape.
2. Increase to 8 sts, work a few rounds, then decrease to a point.
3. Stuff with a pinch of filling if needed.
4. Sew to the bee hand or suspend from a short cord.

Attaching Arms and Ears

Sew the arms to the upper body so they angle slightly downward. The right arm should sit close enough to the body to support the hanging bee companion visually. The left arm may rest more neutrally at the side.

Sew the ears to the head slightly behind the face line, then allow them to fall outward and downward beneath the bonnet. The ears in the image are broad at the base and relaxed, not upright.

Dressing the Bunny

1. Place the dress on first and arrange the shorter front hem and longer back hem correctly.
2. Slide the cardigan over the arms and smooth the fronts so they sit open over the bodice.
3. Add the shoes and check foot symmetry.
4. Set the bonnet on the head, making sure the rolled edge frames the face evenly.
5. Sew or tie the satchel across the body from shoulder to opposite hip.
6. Tuck and tack the bouquet near the satchel side.
7. Attach the bee companion at the hand so it hangs naturally.

Color Placement Notes

Color placement is a major part of the likeness. Keep the bunny body and head in warm cream. Use sage for the dress, lilac for the cardigan, camel for the satchel, and a mix of cool blue and lavender flowers on the bonnet.

The visual balance comes from repeating blue and lilac in several places. The dress border, cardigan motifs, bonnet flowers, and bouquet all echo one another. The bee companion adds a warm yellow accent that stands apart without overpowering the main palette.

Shaping Notes for Accuracy

• The head should be slightly large compared to the body.
• The muzzle should be softly pointed downward toward the mouth.
• The body underneath the dress should stay slim.
• The dress should provide most of the fullness.
• The cardigan should stop above the widest part of the skirt.
• The back hem extension must be visible below the front hem.
• The bonnet flowers should be small, not oversized.
• The satchel should be tiny and structured.
• The bee companion should be clearly separate and readable as a miniature doll.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the face before permanently dressing the bunny. Tiny changes to the eye angle or nose placement affect the whole character. Keep the mouth short and centered. Add only a faint muzzle contour.

When sewing the bonnet, do not flatten the head. Let the crown stay rounded. Position the flowers so they circle the bonnet softly, with one near the top center and the others staggered around the sides.

Arrange the satchel strap diagonally and secure it with a few hidden stitches. Place the bee so it hangs just below the satchel and does not cover the dress border.

Care Notes

• Store away from direct sunlight to protect the soft pastel colors.
• Handle the bonnet flowers and bee accessory gently.
• If displaying upright, support the back so the neck is not strained.
• Avoid heavy brushing that may roughen the knitted surface.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Both eyes evenly placed and matching in size
• Nose centered above the split mouth
• Ears attached symmetrically and draping evenly
• Dress front shorter than back
• Leafy back hem visible
• Bluebell border balanced around the skirt
• Cardigan fronts curved and sitting neatly
• Bonnet flowers spaced naturally
• Satchel strap secure
• Bee companion firmly attached

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean whenever possible using cool water, a soft cloth, and a very small amount of mild wool wash. Blot gently rather than rubbing. Reshape while damp and dry flat on a towel.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny in clean tissue or unbleached cotton and keep it in a dry box. Do not hang it by the satchel or bonnet. If needed, remove surface dust with a very soft brush used lightly.