Petunia Window Box Bunny – Knitting

This sweet handmade bunny set is designed to look like a collectible heirloom rabbit doll, styled for spring display, nursery décor, Easter shelf decorating, and gift giving. The finished set includes a softly shaped bunny in a lilac dress, a pale pink cardigan, a rounded brim hat, Mary Jane shoes, a flower basket, a window box, a tiny watering can, a flower bouquet, and a little kitten companion. The result feels charming, boutique, and beautifully giftable, with the polished look people love in artisan knitted toys and keepsake rabbit dolls.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design is built around a seated-to-standing bunny proportion with a large rounded head, a softly tapered body, long hanging ears, and short slightly curved arms. The clothing is removable in layers except for the shoes, which are worked to fit snugly and may be stitched lightly in place if preferred.

The visual balance matters. The head is large but not oversized, the body is narrow through the chest and wider at the skirt, and the ears fall below the jawline toward the shoulder area. The cardigan ends just under the bust, and the hat sits low enough to frame the face.

The dress has two distinct floral borders. One border runs around the upper overskirt panel, and a second border circles the lower skirt tier. The flowers are soft petunia-inspired blooms in lilac, violet, blush pink, and cream, each with green leaves beneath.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 13 to 15 inches tall from foot base to top of hat
• Kitten companion: about 4 to 5 inches tall
• Window box: about 4 inches wide
• Hand basket: about 2 inches tall excluding handle
• Watering can: about 1.5 inches long
• Bouquet: about 2.5 inches long

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light beige, sport or light DK weight
• Dress and shoes yarn: soft lilac, sport or light DK
• Cardigan yarn: pale blush beige or dusty shell pink, sport or light DK
• Hat yarn: same soft lilac as dress
• Flower colors: deep violet, medium purple, soft pink, pale cream, and lilac
• Leaf and stem yarn: medium spring green and moss green
• Basket yarn: warm brown
• Kitten yarn: taupe brown, cream, pale pink, and soft yellow-beige
• Needles: double-pointed needles or magic loop needles suitable for tight toy knitting, usually US 1.5 to US 3
• Extra tools: stitch markers, tapestry needle, stuffing, scissors, waste yarn, small buttons, sewing needle, and black embroidery floss

Gauge

Gauge is less important than firmness, but the fabric must be dense enough to hide stuffing. Aim for a smooth, even stockinette with no gaps. If your stitches look open, move down a needle size. The bunny should feel softly padded, not squishy or loose.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• BO = bind off
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker

General Construction Notes

The bunny is worked in separate pieces and assembled. The head is rounded and slightly longer than a perfect sphere, with gentle narrowing toward the neck. The muzzle is formed with stuffing control and simple shaping rather than a separate snout piece.

The arms are softly tube-shaped with slight narrowing at the wrist. The legs are short, straight, and stable, since the long double skirt visually covers the upper portion. The feet should remain flat enough for the doll to sit attractively even if it does not stand unsupported.

The ears are long, flat, and softly rounded at the tip. They are attached high on the head but angled to fall downward, not upright. This angle is important because it gives the face its calm, gentle expression.

Main Bunny: Legs

1. Using beige, CO 14 sts for the first leg. Divide for working in the round if preferred.
2. Work 10 rounds in stockinette for the lower leg.
3. Increase 2 sts evenly on the next round.
4. Work 6 more rounds straight.
5. Shape the upper leg with one decrease round: k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
6. Work 4 rounds even.
7. Place stitches on hold.
8. Make the second leg the same.

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The visible portion of the legs is slim. Do not overstuff. The lower legs should look delicate beneath the skirt and end neatly inside the shoes. Keep the shaping light so the dress remains the focal point.

Main Bunny: Body

1. Join both legs onto one needle, adding 4 sts between them at center front and 4 sts at center back. You now have a full body circumference.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Increase 8 sts evenly around the next round to create a soft hip line.
4. Work 8 rounds straight.
5. Begin torso shaping by decreasing 4 sts evenly every 4th round, 3 times total.
6. Work 6 rounds even.
7. Decrease 4 sts evenly once more to define the underbust.
8. Work 4 rounds even.
9. Stuff the lower body firmly but smoothly.
10. Work 4 more rounds for the chest.
11. Decrease 6 sts evenly over 2 rounds to shape the neck.
12. Work 2 rounds even and leave stitches live if attaching head directly, or BO neatly if sewing head separately.

The body should be pear-shaped rather than round. From the front, it appears narrow under the cardigan. From the side, it should gently project at the lower skirt area because the dress sits over it in layered fashion.

Main Bunny: Head

1. Using beige, CO 12 sts and distribute for working in the round.
2. Increase evenly every other round until you reach a broad head circumference suitable for a full round face.
3. Work several rounds even to build the widest section.
4. Continue straight a little longer than you would for a sphere so the face has a softly elongated oval shape.
5. Begin decreasing evenly every other round.
6. Stuff firmly as you go, especially across the cheeks and forehead.
7. Before closing fully, shape the muzzle with extra stuffing placed in the lower center front.
8. Draw the lower face slightly inward with one short sculpting thread if needed to define the mouth placement.
9. Finish decreases and close the opening securely.

The head must feel smooth and full. Avoid corners at the crown. The face in the image is calm and simple, so shaping should be subtle. The nose area projects only slightly, and the eyes are placed wide enough to keep the expression soft.

Main Bunny: Ears

1. Using beige, CO 10 sts for one ear.
2. Work flat in stockinette with a slipped edge for neat finishing.
3. Increase 1 st each side every 4th row until the ear reaches a gentle width.
4. Work straight for the center length.
5. Decrease 1 st each side every 4th row to round the tip.
6. When a few stitches remain, gather or three-needle close softly.
7. Make a second ear to match.

The ears should be long enough to drop from the hat brim to around shoulder level. Lightly steam or finger shape them so they lie flat. Do not stuff them. A flat ear is important for the relaxed silhouette.

Main Bunny: Arms

1. Using beige, CO 12 sts and join to work in the round.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Decrease 2 sts evenly for the wrist.
4. Work 10 rounds even.
5. Increase 2 sts evenly near the upper arm.
6. Work 8 more rounds.
7. Stuff lightly only in the upper two-thirds.
8. Flatten the top and close with a horizontal seam for sewing.
9. Make the second arm.

The arms angle slightly down and inward. When attached, they should rest naturally at the bunny’s sides, with one arm placed so the small basket can nestle against it without looking forced.

Facial Features

Use black embroidery floss or very fine black yarn. The eyes are tiny vertical seed-shaped stitches rather than round safety eyes. Place them low enough to keep the forehead broad, but not so low that they crowd the muzzle.

• Eye placement: centered horizontally across the face, spaced with a gentle width, about halfway between crown and nose tip
• Nose: a small Y-shaped embroidered nose and mouth in dark brown or black-brown
• Muzzle shaping: optional tiny under-nose stitch pull for a softly divided mouth line

Keep the expression minimal. This doll depends on proportion and calm stitching rather than a detailed face. Too much embroidery will change the look completely.

Hat

1. Using lilac, CO enough stitches to fit around the upper head just above the ears.
2. Work in the round for a narrow lower band.
3. Increase slightly for the hat body and work upward in stockinette.
4. After the body height is reached, decrease evenly at four points toward the crown.
5. Close the top neatly.
6. For the brim, return to the cast-on edge and pick up stitches all around.
7. Work several rounds in garter or purl-textured edging to create a softly rolled, structured brim.
8. Bind off loosely so the brim curves outward and down.

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The hat sits low and rounded, almost bucket-shaped, with a padded-looking brim. It is not floppy. The brim frames the face and overlaps the upper ear attachment area, helping the outfit feel polished and complete.

Cardigan

The cardigan is short, soft, and gently boxy. It ends above the top floral skirt band and closes with a single tiny button near the neckline. The sleeves are full but not oversized, and the front bands are neat and visible.

1. Using pale blush beige, CO for the back and fronts in one piece from the lower edge.
2. Work the hem in garter for a few rows.
3. Continue in stockinette with garter or seed-stitch front bands built in.
4. At armhole depth, separate for back and two fronts.
5. Work each section straight with very light neckline shaping on the fronts.
6. Join shoulders with a neat seam.
7. Pick up stitches around each armhole and work sleeves downward in the round or flat.
8. Taper slightly toward the cuff.
9. Work cuffs in garter and bind off loosely.
10. Add one small button and a loop closure or stitched buttonhole at the upper chest.

The cardigan should open enough to show the lilac bodice underneath. Do not make it too long. The image shows a cropped jacket effect, and that proportion is one of the key features of the full look.

Dress Bodice

1. Using lilac, CO to fit snugly around the bunny’s chest.
2. Work the bodice in stockinette, either flat with a back opening or in the round with a small seam allowance.
3. Shape gently at the underarm if needed.
4. Work until the bodice reaches just above the natural waistline.
5. Finish with a clean transition row before beginning the overskirt section.

The upper dress area is plain and smooth. This plain bodice is important because it balances the floral richness below. Keep the neckline simple and soft, as most of it sits beneath the cardigan.

Upper Overskirt

1. From the waist of the bodice, increase generously to form the first skirt layer.
2. Work straight for several rounds or rows so the fabric begins to flare.
3. Increase again lightly to create a soft bell shape.
4. Work until the upper overskirt reaches mid-thigh on the doll.
5. Finish with a tidy lower edge in garter or a narrow turned hem look.

This first skirt layer sits outward and slightly above the lower tier. It must not collapse flat. A little extra width helps it stand away from the body, especially once the floral decoration is sewn on.

Lower Skirt Tier

1. Pick up or attach stitches below the upper overskirt line to begin the lower tier.
2. Increase more generously than for the upper layer.
3. Work until the lower tier extends clearly below the first layer, creating a visible double-skirt silhouette.
4. Finish the hem with a firm but flexible edge so it curves slightly outward.

The lower tier is fuller and longer, but not dramatically ruffled. Think of it as a smooth second bell beneath the first. The two hem lines should read clearly in the finished piece.

Mary Jane Shoes

1. Using lilac, begin at the sole with a small oval or flat-bottom foot piece worked in the round.
2. Work one or two increase rounds to widen the toe area.
3. Continue upward without increasing to form the side walls.
4. Shape the top opening by binding off a small center section for the instep.
5. Work a strap across the opening and attach at the opposite side.
6. Make the second shoe to match.

The shoes are rounded and simple, with a clear Mary Jane opening. They sit close to the foot and do not have chunky soles. The top strap should be visible from the front, exactly as in the photo.

Flower Motifs for Dress

The flowers are the signature detail of the outfit. Make a generous assortment before placement. Slight variation creates a natural garden look. Keep each flower flat rather than puffed, and sew them on after the dress is fully finished.

Five-Petal Petunia Style Flower

1. CO 5 small points worth of stitches using a flower color.
2. Work tiny petal wedges separately or create petals by short-row shaping from a central ring.
3. Join the petals into a flat bloom.
4. Embroider a small star or contrasting center.

Rounded Blossom Variation

1. CO a few stitches and work a small circular or softly scalloped flower.
2. Use pale cream, blush pink, or medium lilac.
3. Add a center stitch in contrasting yarn if desired.

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Leaves

1. Using green, CO a few stitches for each leaf.
2. Increase once or twice, work a short center section, then decrease to a point.
3. Make leaves in pairs and singles.

Use deep violet flowers sparingly as accents. Most blooms should be soft lilac, pink, and cream, with a few darker blossoms to add depth. The arrangement in the image looks balanced rather than crowded.

Placing the Floral Borders

Lay out all flowers before sewing. The upper overskirt border should wrap around the lower edge of the first tier. The lower skirt border should circle the upper half of the bottom tier, leaving visible lilac space above and below the motifs.

• Upper border: alternate medium and small blooms with leaf clusters under each flower grouping
• Lower border: use slightly more flowers and create a fuller garland effect
• Color rhythm: do not place all dark flowers together
• Leaf direction: angle leaves outward and upward for a growing-garden look

Sew the flowers flat with tiny invisible stitches. Add centers after the flowers are attached if that helps you refine the placement. The floral borders should look airy and neat, never stiff or overly packed.

Hand Flower Basket

1. Using brown, work a small circular base.
2. Continue upward without increasing to create a tapered bucket shape.
3. Work the upper rim in a firm textured edge.
4. Make a narrow handle as an i-cord, corded strip, or tight knitted band.
5. Attach handle securely at both sides.
6. Decorate the front with two or three tiny blossom motifs.
7. Fill the basket opening with extra tiny flowers and leaf pieces stitched in place.

This basket is small enough to nestle against the bunny’s left side. The handle arches high but remains thin. The tiny flowers inside the basket should look like a gathered cut-flower arrangement rather than a flat top.

Window Box

1. Using brown, knit a small rectangular strip for the outer wall.
2. Join into a box shape with a separate base.
3. Work or sew a narrow top rim so the box looks sturdy.
4. Add a decorative floral band or tiny blossom dots along the lower front edge in pink and cream.
5. Stuff lightly or line with felt if needed so it holds shape.
6. Fill the box with tightly packed knitted petunia blooms in violet, purple, pink, and cream, plus green leaves.

The window box should look fuller than the hand basket. Flowers are packed close together, almost cushion-like, with petals overlapping slightly. It sits behind the bunny in the image and adds a garden-shop feeling to the full composition.

Watering Can

1. Using lilac, knit a small rounded body piece.
2. Shape a short spout separately as a narrow tapered tube.
3. Make a tiny handle as a firm loop.
4. Attach the spout to the front and the handle at the back top.
5. Stuff very lightly so the can keeps its shape.

The watering can is petite and decorative. Keep it rounded and sweet rather than realistic. Its job is to support the story of the scene without stealing focus from the bunny.

Flower Bouquet

1. Make 4 to 6 very small blossoms in lilac, pink, and violet.
2. Work several thin green stems as i-cords or tightly twisted knitted cords.
3. Attach one flower to each stem.
4. Gather stems together and wrap with matching green yarn.

The bouquet should look loose and hand-picked. Let one bloom sit slightly higher than the others and angle a few stems outward for a natural finish.

Kitten Companion

The kitten is tiny, slightly squat, and dressed to echo the bunny. It has a taupe body, cream face and chest details, a pale pink hat, and a soft yellow-beige capelet. The face is tiny and sweet, with a pink nose and whisker stitches.

Kitten Body and Head

1. Using taupe, make two short legs and join into a compact body.
2. Work upward only a short distance before shaping the chest and neck.
3. Form the head as a rounded top with gentle cheek fullness.
4. Add cream on the muzzle and chest either by intarsia, duplicate stitch, or applied patch pieces.
5. Stuff firmly but keep the figure tiny and neat.

Kitten Arms, Tail, and Ears

1. Make two tiny arms as short tubes and attach close to the upper body.
2. Make a slim tail and sew to the back.
3. Create two small pointed ears and attach high on the head.

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Kitten Capelet

1. Using pale yellow-beige, pick up or CO enough stitches for a small neck cape.
2. Work short rows or gentle increases to create a flared semicircle.
3. Bind off softly and attach around the neck.

Kitten Flower Hat

1. Using pale pink, knit a tiny cap that fits low on the head.
2. Add softly pointed petal-like scallops around the edge so it resembles a flower cap.
3. Sew lightly to the head if desired.

The kitten should remain simple. It is a supporting detail, but it must clearly belong to the same world as the bunny. Matching colors help tie the full set together.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the main bunny body pieces.
2. Attach head to body securely.
3. Attach ears high on the head with a downward angle.
4. Embroider facial features.
5. Make and fit shoes.
6. Dress the bunny in bodice and skirt layers.
7. Sew floral motifs to both skirt tiers.
8. Add cardigan and button.
9. Fit the hat low around the forehead.
10. Make and place the hand basket, window box, watering can, and bouquet.
11. Make the kitten and dress it.

Styling Notes for Accuracy

• The bunny’s face should stay plain and serene.
• The cardigan color must be softer and warmer than the lilac dress.
• The hat and shoes should match the dress family closely.
• The upper skirt tier must visibly overlap the lower tier.
• The floral borders must be clear, colorful, and balanced, with green leaves under the blooms.
• The accessories should be scaled small and delicate.
• The kitten should be noticeably smaller and slightly rustic in charm.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the head angle before sewing permanently. A very slight forward tilt gives the bunny a gentle, affectionate expression. Add the eyes first, then the nose and mouth, and only then decide whether the muzzle needs one tiny sculpting stitch for extra definition.

Place the ears so they fall evenly under the hat brim. Fit the cardigan after the dress is adjusted. Once the hat is on, confirm that the full silhouette still shows the face clearly and that the floral work remains visible below the cardigan hem.

Care Notes

• Display pieces are best kept away from direct sunlight to protect pastel colors.
• Handle floral appliqués gently when dressing or moving the doll.
• Avoid soaking if the piece includes glued or heavily detailed trims.
• Store with tissue support inside the hat and skirt if packing away seasonally.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head: smooth, evenly stuffed, calm face
• Ears: long, flat, and angled downward
• Dress: two clear skirt tiers
• Flowers: balanced spacing and secure stitching
• Cardigan: cropped length with one button
• Hat: rounded crown and visible brim
• Shoes: matching pair with Mary Jane opening
• Accessories: hand basket, window box, can, bouquet, and kitten all completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For dust, use a clean dry brush or a low-suction vacuum through a thin cloth barrier. For spot cleaning, dab gently with cool water and a tiny amount of mild soap, then blot without rubbing. Reshape while damp and dry flat.

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If long-term storing, wrap the bunny and accessories separately in acid-free tissue. Avoid plastic bags in humid spaces. Keep the set flat or lightly supported so the hat brim, flower petals, and cardigan edges keep their original shape.