This charming woodland set features a soft rabbit doll in a cream dress, a deep berry bonnet, a lace-front vest, matching shoes, and a tiny shoulder bag, along with a squirrel friend, a picnic basket, and a small storybook. It is a lovely collectible for nursery decor, handmade gift giving, heirloom toy displays, and shoppers searching for knitted bunny doll, stuffed rabbit gift, artisan toy, cottagecore decor, and handmade nursery companion ideas.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Project Overview
This design is built as a complete display set. The rabbit is the main piece and should be made first. After that, work the clothing and accessories so you can adjust fit as you go.
The finished rabbit has a rounded head, a softly tapered body, long relaxed ears, straight gentle arms, and long legs that sit forward naturally. The clothes are close-fitting but still soft, with no stiff or bulky shaping.
The color balance matters greatly in this set. Use a warm cream for the rabbit, dress, and squirrel sweater. Use a rich dark bramble red for the bonnet, vest, shoes, and little shoulder bag.
The squirrel should be smaller than the rabbit and reach about the rabbit’s upper thigh when seated beside it. The picnic basket and book are tiny props, sized to sit near the rabbit without overwhelming the scene.
Finished Size
- Rabbit: about 13 to 15 inches tall seated, depending on yarn weight and stuffing
- Squirrel: about 5 to 6 inches tall
- Basket: about 3 inches wide
- Book: about 1.5 inches square
- Shoulder bag: about 2 inches tall
Materials
- Main rabbit yarn: light DK or fine sport yarn in warm cream
- Accent yarn: DK yarn in deep berry, wine, or bramble red
- Squirrel yarn: medium brown and lighter nut brown
- Basket yarn: straw, flax, tan, or light brown
- Book yarn: pale pink, cream, and a tiny amount of gray or taupe for lettering detail
- Needles: a size that gives a tight fabric with no stuffing visible
- Stuffing: soft polyester fiberfill
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Small black safety eyes or embroidered French-knot style eyes
- Small buttons: one for each shoe strap and one tiny one for the bag flap if desired
Gauge
Gauge is less important than fabric density. The knitted fabric must be firm enough that stuffing does not show through. Keep your tension even and slightly snug, especially for the face, limbs, and shoes.
If your fabric feels loose, go down a needle size. If it feels stiff enough to distort shaping, go up slightly. The rabbit should look smooth and refined rather than hard.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- BO = bind off
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
Construction Notes
The rabbit is easiest to make in separate pieces. Knit the head, body, arms, legs, and ears individually, then stuff and sew them together. This gives better control over posture and helps match the gentle proportions in the picture.
The dress is worked as a separate garment. The vest is also separate and sits open at the front. The bonnet frames the face with a ruffled edge, and the bag is worn crossbody from one shoulder to the opposite hip.
The squirrel is also made in separate pieces. The sweater is tiny but simple. The acorn is a two-color embellishment that brings the woodland mood together.
Rabbit Head
Begin at the top of the head. Cast on a small number of stitches using the cream yarn. Increase evenly every other round or every RS row if working flat until you have a full oval width.
The head should be slightly taller than wide once stuffed, but still very rounded. Avoid a narrow muzzle. The face in the image is smooth and softly full, with only subtle shaping around the nose and lower face.
Work several rows straight in St st once full width is reached. Then start gentle decreases. Keep the shaping balanced so the cheeks stay rounded. Leave an opening for stuffing before closing completely.
Stuff the head firmly but not hard. The surface should remain smooth. Use extra small bits of filling around the cheeks and forehead so there are no dents. The chin area should be softly defined, not pointed.
For the nose, embroider a small Y-shaped mouth in a muted brown or soft taupe. Keep it centered and delicate. The nose section should be short and neat, with the mouth extending only slightly downward.
Place the eyes wide apart, sitting at mid-face height or just above center. They must be tiny and dark, giving a calm, storybook expression. Do not make them too large, or the rabbit will lose its gentle look.
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Rabbit Ears
Make two long ears in cream. Each ear is narrow at the top, widens softly toward the middle, and tapers again toward the base. The ears in the image fall downward rather than standing upright.
Cast on a small number of stitches and increase gradually to form the middle width. Work straight for enough length to create a long drape. Then decrease slightly near the lower end if needed for a clean join.
Do not overstuff the ears. In fact, most of the ear should remain unstuffed. If you want a little support at the base, add a tiny amount of filling only to the bottom inch.
Sew the ears to the upper sides of the head, slightly behind the face line. Let them hang downward in a relaxed way. The bonnet will cover the top join area, so keep the stitching neat but not bulky.
Rabbit Body
The body is pear shaped, full at the lower half and narrower at the shoulders. Begin at the base. Cast on enough stitches for a rounded bottom and increase into a shallow oval if you are working in the round.
Work the lower body with a little fullness so the rabbit can sit securely. As you move upward, decrease gradually through the waist area. The upper chest should be narrower but still softly padded.
The finished torso should be compact, not long. The dress adds visual length, so the body itself stays modest in height. Test the proportion by placing the head on top before closing the body opening.
Stuff the lower body more firmly than the upper body. This helps the rabbit sit well and keeps the skirt from collapsing inward. The chest can be a little softer so the arms settle naturally at the sides.
Rabbit Arms
Make two slim tube-shaped arms in cream. These are simple and lightly tapered, with a little fullness at the upper arm and a rounded hand end. They should reach to about the lower edge of the vest pockets.
Cast on a small number of stitches and work evenly for most of the length. Add one or two subtle increases near the top if you want a softer shoulder line. Close the hand end neatly and stuff lightly.
The arms should remain flexible. Too much stuffing will make them stick out. Sew them to the upper body so they angle gently downward. In the picture, the arms rest close to the dress without dramatic bend.
Rabbit Legs
Make two long legs in cream. They are thicker than the arms and end in rounded feet that sit forward. The feet are not oversized, but they are broad enough to support the mary-jane style shoes.
Begin at the foot end and shape a rounded toe. Work several rows evenly, then narrow slightly through the ankle. Continue straight for the leg length. The legs should look smooth and tidy without sharp knee shaping.
Stuff the feet firmly so the shoes hold their shape. Stuff the leg portion a little less firmly. Sew the legs to the lower front of the body so they extend outward in a seated position.
Dress
The dress is cream and has a classic flared skirt. The top is simple and mostly hidden by the vest, while the skirt is the visual focus. The hem includes a deep berry ruffle layered over a lighter textured lower edge.
Start with the bodice. Cast on to fit the rabbit torso snugly. Work in St st with simple shaping at the waist if desired. Keep the neckline open enough that the head can pass through, or add a back opening.
The bodice should be sleeveless or very lightly capped so the vest can sit smoothly over it. Keep bulk minimal at the shoulders. The dress in the image looks soft and tidy, without puffed sleeves.
For the skirt, increase steadily after the waist to create a gentle bell shape. The skirt should spread enough to cover the upper legs while seated. It should not be stiff or heavily gathered.
Work the main skirt length in cream. At the lower edge, add a contrasting bramble-red ruffle. This ruffle is important. It sits above the cream lower trim and creates the layered finish visible in the picture.
To make the red ruffle, pick up stitches around the lower skirt edge and work short increase rows or a repeat with frequent increases. A simple pattern like k1, kfb around will help create a softly wavy edge.
Under the red ruffle, add a cream decorative hem. This may be done as a knitted lace-look edging, a scalloped trim, or a softly rippled border. It should peek out below the darker ruffle.
The skirt length should end around the rabbit’s lower thigh when seated. Once the shoes are on, there should still be visible cream legs between skirt and shoe straps.
Vest
The vest is one of the signature details of this design. It is sleeveless, deep berry in color, open at the front, and features a corset-like laced section over the upper front. The lower front corners each include a tiny pocket.
Work the back first, from lower hem to shoulders. The hem should sit just below the waistline of the dress. Shape the armholes gently and keep the shoulder width narrow so the vest looks tailored.
Make two fronts separately. Each front should be wide enough to overlap visually at the center chest, even if the vest remains open lower down. The neckline dips slightly, allowing the lacing to show clearly.
For the laced front section, create evenly spaced eyelet openings along the inner front edges. You can do this with yarn-over holes or with later stitched eyelets. Lace a fine knitted cord through in a crisscross arrangement.
The lacing should begin high on the chest and continue down toward the waist. Leave a small dangling tie at the bottom. This detail gives the vest its storybook finish and should not be skipped.
Add a tiny pocket to each lower front panel. These pockets are simple rounded rectangles or shallow curved patches sewn on after knitting. Keep them small and slightly angled outward.
The vest length should stop above the deepest part of the skirt. In the image, it frames the dress rather than covering it. Block the vest lightly so the front edges lie smooth.
Bonnet
The bonnet frames the rabbit’s face like a soft flower. It is deep berry and has a rippled outer edge. It sits around the face and ties beneath the chin with narrow cords.
Begin with the inner face opening. Work a band that fits around the rabbit’s face from one lower side to the other. Then build outward with short rows or evenly spaced increases to create depth over the head.
The outer edge should be ruffled. To do this, pick up stitches around the bonnet border and work one or two rounds with frequent increases. A softly scalloped result is ideal.
The bonnet should cover the top of the head and the ear bases while leaving the facial area fully visible. The rabbit’s long ears should emerge from beneath or behind the bonnet and fall downward.
Add knitted tie cords to the lower edges. These are long, slim, and easy to knot. Tie them in a small bow or loose cross under the chin. In the image, the ties are present but do not dominate the front.
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Shoes
The shoes are deep berry mary-jane style with a rounded toe and a single strap across the top. They fit over the finished feet and leave a cream opening visible near the instep.
Work each shoe beginning at the sole or toe. Shape a rounded front, then build up the sides. Keep the shoe neat and snug, since loose slippers will not match the tidy look of the image.
The top opening should be oval and centered. Add a narrow strap from one side to the other. Sew one tiny button at the outer side of each shoe to imitate the clasp.
The strap should sit diagonally or gently straight across the instep, depending on fit. Make sure enough cream leg remains visible above the shoe so the contrast is crisp and charming.
Shoulder Bag
This tiny bag is deep berry and worn crossbody. It sits at the rabbit’s left side in the image and has a rounded flap with a small pale button detail.
Knit a small rectangle, fold it into a pouch, and seam the sides. Shape the flap separately or as an extension of the back. Keep the bag compact and softly rounded rather than boxy.
For the strap, make a long narrow i-cord or tightly knitted band in cream. The contrast strap is important because it stands out across the front of the vest and dress.
Sew the strap to both upper corners of the bag and place it diagonally from one shoulder to the opposite side. Adjust the length so the bag rests near the hip, not too low.
Squirrel Friend
The squirrel is a small companion toy with a rounded head, compact body, tiny ears, short limbs, and a very full upright tail. It wears a cream sweater and holds an acorn.
For the head, knit a small rounded shape in medium brown. Add tiny dark eyes placed slightly wide apart. Embroider a short nose and mouth, keeping the expression gentle and friendly.
The body should be short and plump. Work it in one piece or in front and back sections. The neck is minimal, so the head sits close to the body. Keep the squirrel noticeably smaller than the rabbit.
Make two tiny ears in brown. These can be little half-oval tabs sewn to the top of the head. Keep them understated. They should be visible but not oversized.
The arms and legs are short, slim, and lightly stuffed. Sew them close to the body so the squirrel appears settled in a seated position. The legs can angle outward slightly at the feet.
The tail is large compared with the body and curves upward behind the squirrel. Knit it as two mirrored pieces or as one shaped piece folded and seamed. Stuff lightly so it keeps volume without becoming rigid.
The sweater is cream and very simple. It should cover the torso and upper arms, leaving the lower body and tail visible. A basic ribbed hem and plain body are enough.
The acorn is tiny but important. Make the nut section in light brown and the cap in dark brown. Sew it between the front paws so the squirrel appears to be holding it.
Picnic Basket
The basket is a small rectangular prop in straw-colored yarn. It has a fitted lid and a looped handle rising from the top. The texture should suggest woven structure.
Use seed stitch, slipped stitch texture, or a tidy knit-purl basketweave effect. Work a base rectangle first, then the four sides. Seam firmly so the basket keeps its straight shape.
Make a flat lid to fit the top opening. The lid can be lightly attached at the back or simply placed on top. Add a narrow handle centered over the lid, arcing upward.
The finished basket should sit beside the rabbit and reach only partway up the rabbit’s shin. It must look delicate and miniature rather than full-size.
Storybook Prop
The little book is a soft square accessory with pale pages and a muted cover. In the image it sits near the basket and adds a cozy storytelling mood.
Knit two small rectangles for the cover in pale blush or dusty pink. Knit two slightly smaller cream rectangles for the inner pages. Stack them and seam around the edge.
If desired, add a tiny embroidered title with a few simple straight stitches. Keep it minimal and suggestive rather than highly detailed. The book should remain sweet and understated.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
- Sew the head to the body, checking that the chin sits slightly forward and the face looks centered.
- Attach the legs low on the front body so the rabbit sits with feet forward.
- Sew the arms at shoulder level, angled gently downward.
- Attach the ears high on the head but slightly back from the face line.
- Dress the rabbit in the cream dress first, then add the vest, bonnet, shoes, and bag.
- Check eye placement once more before securing permanently if using stitched eyes.
- Embroider the nose and mouth last, using short neat stitches to keep the expression balanced.
- Place the squirrel, basket, and book beside the rabbit to complete the full display scene.
Care Notes
- Keep the set away from rough play if made as a display collectible.
- Store out of direct sunlight to protect the deep berry shade from fading.
- Support the bonnet ruffle and squirrel tail gently when moving the set.
- Do not hang the rabbit by the bag strap or bonnet ties.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Is the rabbit’s face smooth and evenly stuffed?
- Are the eyes small, balanced, and softly expressive?
- Do the ears fall naturally on both sides?
- Does the vest show clear front lacing?
- Are both tiny pockets attached?
- Is the dress hem layered with berry and cream trims?
- Do the shoe straps and buttons match?
- Is the bag resting diagonally at the side?
- Does the squirrel have its sweater and acorn?
- Are the basket and book sized in scale with the rabbit?
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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean whenever possible using a barely damp cloth and gentle soap. Avoid soaking the pieces, especially the props, because small seams and stuffed details may lose shape.
If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash briefly in cool water, press out moisture in a towel, and reshape while drying flat. Keep the bonnet ruffle, shoe straps, and squirrel tail arranged neatly as they dry.
For long-term preservation, store in a clean cotton bag or display cabinet. Acid-free tissue tucked lightly around the bonnet, dress hem, and basket can help the details keep their form.
With patient finishing and careful proportion, this set becomes a polished woodland keepsake with the same gentle charm, layered styling, and story-rich details shown in the image.
