Scarlet Woodland Bunny – Knitting

This sweet woodland set brings together the charm of a dressed bunny, a tiny squirrel friend, and picnic-style accessories in a collectible handmade display. The finished pieces look lovely on a nursery shelf, craft fair table, gift basket, or seasonal home décor stand. If you enjoy searching for heirloom knitted toys, handmade bunny dolls, boutique stuffed animals, or artisan nursery gifts, this design gives you that same polished look in a fully handmade form with classic colors, gentle shaping, and beautiful small details.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: sport or light DK weight yarn in soft cream.
• Dress and shoes: light DK yarn in deep scarlet red.
• Dress yoke and purse: light DK yarn in black.
• Dress yoke dots: a very small amount of white yarn.
• Squirrel: light DK yarn in warm chestnut brown, cream, and medium blue.
• Basket: light DK yarn in natural straw beige and a tiny amount of pink for the cloth edge.
• Flower bouquet: scraps of red, white, pale blue, and green.
• Acorn: brown and tan yarn scraps.
• Needles: double-pointed needles in sizes suitable for a firm toy fabric, plus one size smaller for trims if desired.
• Optional circular needle: for working larger flat pieces if preferred.
• Toy stuffing: high-quality polyester fiberfill.
• Small black safety eyes or black embroidery thread: for the bunny and squirrel faces.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and finishing.
• Stitch markers: for shaping points.
• Waste yarn: useful for holding stitches and positioning features.

Finished Size

The bunny is designed as the main figure and should stand approximately 10 to 12 inches tall from foot to ear tip when made firmly in light DK yarn.

The squirrel should be noticeably smaller, around one-third of the bunny’s total height, so it reads as a companion piece rather than a second main doll.

The purse, bouquet, basket, and acorn should all be scaled small enough to sit near the bunny’s feet without competing with the main figure.

Gauge

Gauge is less important than firmness, but the fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

• Aim for: about 7 to 8 stitches per inch in stockinette for the bunny body.
• Important: toy knitting should be worked more firmly than garment knitting.
• If your stitches look loose: go down a needle size.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• inc = increase 1 stitch in your preferred neat method
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Design Notes

This set depends on proportion more than complexity. The bunny has a round head, a softly tapered muzzle, upright long ears, a simple dress with a dark patterned yoke, a bucket-style hat, rounded Mary Jane shoes, and a crossbody purse.

The squirrel is compact and upright, with a full tail rising behind the body. Its little sweater is plain blue and fitted. The basket is shallow and oval. The bouquet is tiny, clustered, and bright. Every piece should look gentle and slightly storybook-like.

For the closest match, keep all shaping soft. Avoid sharp decreases, exaggerated limbs, or oversized accessories. The charm of the set comes from smooth curves, balanced sizing, and crisp finishing.

Bunny Body

Legs

Make 2 in cream. Each leg is a simple tube with very mild shaping. The legs should look straight and soft, not muscular or bent.

1. CO 16 sts and divide onto double-pointed needles. Join carefully for working in the round.
2. Work 18 rounds in stockinette.
3. On the next round, inc 2 sts evenly. Work 8 rounds.
4. Work 1 shaping round: k2, k2tog, knit to 4 sts before end, ssk, k2.
5. Work 6 rounds even.
6. Repeat the shaping round once more. Work 4 rounds even.
7. Stuff the lower leg lightly, keeping the ankle soft.
8. Leave the upper opening live or place stitches on waste yarn.

The finished legs should be slim cylinders with only a little fullness near the top. Do not overstuff, or the dress will not hang correctly.

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Body

Join the two legs into one body. The bunny in the image has a slightly pear-shaped lower body hidden under the dress, so the stuffing must support the dress without creating a bulky waist.

1. Place both legs on needles and join by knitting across one leg, CO 4 stitches for the gap, knit across the second leg, CO 4 stitches for the back gap. You now have a full body round.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Increase 4 stitches evenly on the next round.
4. Work 10 rounds even.
5. Increase 4 stitches evenly again for the fullest body point.
6. Work 8 rounds even.
7. Begin waist shaping by decreasing 4 stitches evenly every 4th round, three times total.
8. Work 6 rounds even after the final decrease.

Stuff the body firmly at the lower section and medium-firm at the waist. The silhouette should remain upright, but not stiff or angular.

Chest and Neck

1. Decrease 4 stitches evenly.
2. Work 4 rounds even.
3. Decrease 4 stitches evenly again to begin the upper chest.
4. Work 4 rounds even.
5. Decrease evenly to a smaller neck opening.
6. Work 4 rounds for the neck tube.

The neck should be quite short and stable. Add a little extra stuffing into the base of the neck so the head will sit high and centered.

Bunny Head

The head is the most important part of the set. It must be round, smooth, and slightly broader than the neck. The face is calm and minimal, with a softly built muzzle and a tiny stitched nose and mouth.

1. CO 12 sts and divide onto needles.
2. Round 1: knit.
3. Round 2: inc in every stitch. Continue increasing evenly every other round until the head circumference looks generously rounded for the body.
4. Work even for the central head section.
5. To form the face area, work 2 very small paired increases at the front over two shaping rounds only.
6. Work several rounds even.
7. Begin decreasing evenly every other round until about one-third of the original fullness remains.
8. Stuff firmly and smoothly as you go.
9. Close the opening neatly.

Use your fingers to shape the stuffing into a soft ball. The face should not be flat. It needs a gentle forward projection where the muzzle will sit.

Muzzle

Make 1 in cream. The muzzle is a small oval pad, lightly stuffed, and sewn low on the front of the face.

1. CO 8 sts and work flat in stockinette with a slipped first stitch for tidy edges.
2. Increase at both ends every RS row until the piece becomes a soft oval.
3. Work 4 rows even.
4. Decrease at both ends every RS row until you return close to the starting width.
5. BO knitwise, leaving a long sewing tail.

Sew the muzzle centered slightly below the halfway point of the head. Add only a pinch of stuffing. Too much stuffing will push the face outward too strongly.

Face Shaping

Before adding the embroidered features, lightly sculpt the face by running a thread from the base of one eye position to the other if you want shallow indent points. Keep them extremely soft. The bunny in the image has a clean, calm face, not a deeply sculpted one.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 in cream. The ears are tall, upright, and narrow at the base with softly rounded tips. They stand almost straight up and lean only slightly outward.

1. CO 10 sts and work flat.
2. Increase at both ends every 4th row until the ear reaches its widest point.
3. Work even for the long center length.
4. Begin tapering by decreasing at both ends every 4th row.
5. When the ear nears the tip, decrease every RS row until a rounded point remains.
6. BO and make a second ear.

Fold the base of each ear very slightly before sewing so the ear cups inward. This helps them stand beautifully and match the image.

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Bunny Arms

Make 2 in cream. The arms are short, gently tapered, and sit low at the shoulder line because the dress sleeves cover the upper arm area.

1. CO 14 sts and join for working in the round.
2. Work 6 rounds even.
3. Decrease 2 stitches evenly.
4. Work 10 rounds even.
5. Decrease once more near the wrist if needed.
6. Work 4 rounds even.
7. Stuff lightly, flatten the top edge, and close by grafting or whipstitching.

The arms should look slightly rounded at the paw end and narrower at the sleeve end. Do not overstuff.

Dress

The dress is the signature garment in this design. It has a scarlet skirt, a black upper section, and small white motifs scattered neatly across the yoke and sleeves. The fit is loose and slightly flared.

Skirt

1. Using scarlet, CO enough stitches to fit comfortably around the widest body area plus a little ease.
2. Join and work 4 rounds in garter texture if you want a softly stable lower edge, or use a tidy stockinette hem if you prefer.
3. Increase evenly over the next few rounds to create a bell-shaped skirt.
4. Work until the skirt reaches just below the knees of the bunny.
5. Decrease evenly in 2 or 3 rounds near the waist so the dress draws in before the yoke begins.

The skirt should hang outward softly and cover most of the body. It should not cling tightly. The image shows a clean, modest A-line silhouette.

Black Yoke

1. Change to black and work 2 rounds even.
2. Decrease lightly at the sides to shape the torso section.
3. Work several rounds even to create the chest area.
4. Begin armhole shaping by dividing the piece for front and back if working flat from this point, or by binding off small underarm sections and continuing separately.

The black section is shorter than the red section and sits high, ending just below the neck. Keep it snug enough to look neat but not tight.

White Motif Yoke Pattern

The image shows many tiny white marks on the black fabric. These read like little seed-shaped stitches or miniature hearts. The easiest way to recreate them is with duplicate stitch after knitting the black yoke.

• Place the motifs in small staggered rows.
• Keep the front neckline area more densely dotted.
• Continue the same motif style onto the short sleeves.
• Do not make the white shapes large. They should remain tiny and delicate.

If you prefer stranded knitting, you may work tiny white contrast stitches while knitting the yoke. Duplicate stitch is usually easier for cleaner placement.

Sleeves

Make 2 short black sleeves. The sleeves in the image are elbow length or slightly shorter, with soft fullness and no cuff contrast.

1. CO 18 sts in black and join for working in the round.
2. Work 10 to 12 rounds even.
3. Decrease 2 stitches evenly if needed for a gentle taper.
4. Work 4 more rounds.
5. BO loosely.

Add the same tiny white duplicate-stitch motifs over the sleeve surface. Sew the sleeves neatly to the armholes, then slide the cream arms into place and secure them from the inside or at the sleeve edge.

Hat

The hat is a scarlet bucket-style hat with a rounded crown and a downward brim. It sits low on the bunny’s head, covering the forehead and the base of the ears.

1. Using scarlet, CO 12 sts and join.
2. Increase evenly every other round until the crown circle is slightly wider than the top of the head.
3. Work several rounds even for crown depth.
4. Increase lightly over the next 2 to 4 rounds to begin the flaring brim.
5. Work the brim long enough to roll or curve downward naturally.
6. Finish with 2 rounds of garter texture or a firm BO to stabilize the edge.

After finishing, shape the brim with your fingers so it turns down softly all around. Sew the hat in place after the ears are attached, leaving the ear tips fully visible above it.

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Shoes

The bunny wears scarlet Mary Jane shoes with a strap across the instep. The shoes are rounded and soft, not flat slippers.

Shoe Base

1. Make 2 in scarlet.
2. CO from the toe and increase symmetrically to form an oval top.
3. Work several rounds even to build depth.
4. Decrease slightly toward the ankle while keeping the toe round and full.
5. Slip the finished shoe over the knitted foot and sew in place.

Strap

1. CO 3 or 4 stitches.
2. Knit a narrow strip long enough to cross the top of the shoe.
3. Sew each strap firmly at both ends.
4. Add a tiny stitched knot or decorative bump at the outer side if you want a button suggestion.

The strap is important to the look. It gives the shoes their Mary Jane style and makes the outfit feel polished.

Purse

The purse is black, small, quilted in appearance, and worn crossbody with a thin metallic-looking strap. It sits at the bunny’s right side.

Purse Body

1. Using black, CO a small rectangle width.
2. Work in a dense stitch pattern, or plain stockinette if you plan to add surface stitching later.
3. Knit a long rectangle that can fold into a small handbag with front flap.
4. Fold the lower section upward and sew side seams.
5. Fold the top section down into a flap.

Quilted Detail

To mimic the quilted effect in the image, use diagonal surface stitching across the front flap and body. Work one direction first, then the other, spacing evenly for tiny diamond shapes.

Closure and Strap

• Add a tiny silver-toned bead, stitched knot, or small embroidered ring at the flap center.
• For the strap, use dark gray sewing thread, chain-stitch embroidery, or a crocheted chain in very fine yarn.
• Sew the strap so the purse hangs diagonally from the bunny’s left shoulder to the right hip area.

The purse should not be oversized. It must remain small enough that the dress is still the main visual focus.

Squirrel

The squirrel is a separate knitted toy and deserves careful proportion. It has a rounded upright body, a cream tummy panel, short front paws, a blue sweater, small pointed ears, and a large curved tail.

Squirrel Legs and Lower Body

1. Using chestnut brown, make 2 small legs as narrow tubes.
2. Join them into one lower body in the round.
3. Increase slightly at the hip area for a plump base.
4. Work even for a few rounds.

Tummy Insert

The front tummy is cream and oval. You may knit it separately and sew it on, or work it as an intarsia panel on the front. A separate sewn panel usually gives a cleaner toy finish.

1. Make a tiny cream oval.
2. Lightly pad it if desired.
3. Sew it to the lower front body before final stuffing.

Upper Body and Head

1. Continue the chestnut body upward with a small chest area.
2. Increase into the head shape until it becomes gently rounded.
3. Work a short even section.
4. Decrease toward the top and close.

The squirrel head should be small compared with the bunny. It should still be rounded, but more compact and slightly pointed at the muzzle.

Ears and Arms

• Make 2 tiny triangular ears in chestnut and sew them upright on top of the head.
• Make 2 slim arms or paws and position them forward so they can hold the acorn.

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Tail

The tail is crucial. It should be tall, wide, and curved upward behind the squirrel’s body.

1. CO a small number of stitches and increase steadily to create a broad tail strip.
2. Work several rows even at maximum width.
3. Decrease gradually toward the tip.
4. Lightly stuff or back with an extra knitted layer if needed.
5. Sew the tail behind the body in a high upward curve.

Blue Sweater

The sweater is a simple blue pullover that covers the squirrel torso but leaves the cream belly area partially visible below it.

1. CO enough stitches for the squirrel chest.
2. Work a very short rib or plain hem.
3. Knit evenly for body length.
4. Shape tiny arm openings if making it fitted.
5. Finish with a simple neckline.

Dress the squirrel after sewing the body together, or seam the sweater on the squirrel if you prefer a permanent finish.

Acorn

The squirrel holds a small acorn. This detail is tiny, but it helps complete the woodland scene.

1. Make the lower nut section in tan or warm beige as a tiny oval.
2. Make the cap in darker brown as a shallow dome.
3. Sew the cap to the nut and add a tiny stem knot if desired.
4. Stitch the acorn between the squirrel’s front paws.

Basket

The basket is small, low, and oval, with a handle and a hint of checked or pink cloth peeking from inside.

1. Using beige, knit a small oval base.
2. Pick up stitches around the edge and work a few rounds upward for the sides.
3. Keep the basket shallow.
4. BO firmly so the rim stands nicely.
5. Knit or crochet a narrow handle and attach from side to side.

For the cloth insert, place a tiny folded knitted strip in pink or pink-and-cream at the basket opening. Secure lightly so it stays visible.

Flower Bouquet

The bouquet at the bunny’s feet is a compact cluster of tiny blossoms in red, white, and pale blue with green stems.

• Make several tiny puff flowers or layered knitted petals.
• Use white for the largest visual accents.
• Add red flowers to echo the bunny dress.
• Add pale blue blossoms for contrast and softness.
• Gather the stems together tightly into a small posy.

The bouquet should remain low and rounded. Do not make long stems or large petals. It should look like a tiny hand-tied bunch placed on the table.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff both bunny legs, then join into the body.
2. Finish the bunny body and neck.
3. Make and attach the bunny head.
4. Sew on the muzzle and embroider the facial features.
5. Attach the ears.
6. Dress the bunny in the red and black outfit.
7. Attach sleeves and arms.
8. Add shoes.
9. Sew the hat in place.
10. Make and attach the purse strap.
11. Construct the squirrel and dress it.
12. Make the acorn, basket, and bouquet.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Position the bunny eyes as tiny black points set wide apart and slightly above the muzzle. Keep them small. The image shows a sweet, calm expression with lots of open face space.

Embroider the nose as a tiny inverted triangle or short satin-stitched wedge in dark brown or black. Continue with a short vertical line and two soft mouth curves meeting below.

Sew the head straight on the neck so the bunny stands upright. Attach the ears high and close together, then angle them gently outward. Add the hat last so the brim sits low across the forehead.

Place the purse at the right hip. Stand the squirrel on the bunny’s left side. Arrange the basket and bouquet near the feet for the same storybook composition seen in the image.

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Care Notes

• Display indoors and keep away from prolonged direct sunlight.
• Use gentle spot cleaning first whenever possible.
• Avoid twisting or soaking pieces with stuffing.
• Handle the purse strap, bouquet, and basket carefully because they are delicate.
• Store flat or upright in a dust-free space.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Is the bunny head round and centered?
• Are both ears upright and balanced?
• Does the hat sit low with a soft downward brim?
• Does the dress flare gently with a neat black yoke?
• Are the white yoke motifs tiny and evenly spaced?
• Are the red shoes rounded with visible straps?
• Does the purse hang diagonally across the body?
• Is the squirrel clearly smaller than the bunny?
• Are the basket, bouquet, and acorn all scaled small and tidy?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For routine care, use a soft dry brush or a clean cosmetic brush to lift dust from the hat brim, dress, purse, and squirrel tail. Brush gently in one direction.

If deeper cleaning is needed, blot the surface with a lightly damp cloth and a small amount of mild wool-safe soap. Do not rub aggressively, especially over embroidered features or duplicate-stitched dress motifs.

After spot cleaning, press excess moisture away with a dry towel. Reshape the bunny head, ears, skirt, squirrel tail, and basket handle while the fabric is still slightly damp.

Let every piece air dry naturally on a towel, away from heaters and direct sun. Once dry, smooth the dress and hat with your fingers and return the accessories to their display position.