Berry Beret Bunny – Knitting

This charming knitted bunny set is designed to match the picture exactly, with a soft cream rabbit, a berry-red beret, a striped buttoned coat, a little shoulder bag, and a tiny fox friend surrounded by garden accessories. It is a lovely choice for anyone searching for a knitted bunny doll, heirloom rabbit toy, collectible nursery decor, handmade woodland gift, or boutique-style stuffed animal for spring and autumn displays. The finished set looks polished and gift-ready, yet each part is worked in a clear, manageable order so newer knitters can follow along with confidence.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Cream yarn for the bunny head, ears, arms, and visible body base
• Berry-red yarn for the beret, stripes, coat buttons if knitted, and shoe tops
• Deep wine yarn for the collar, crossbody bag, and shoe soles
• Rust orange yarn for the fox head and tail
• White yarn for the fox muzzle and the open book pages
• Medium blue yarn for the fox sweater
• Warm brown yarn for the fox trousers, acorn cap, basket rim accents, and book edging
• Dark brown yarn for the fox ears, hands, feet, and acorn detail
• Leaf green yarn for the watering can
• Berry-red and small green scraps for the fruit in the basket
• Black thread or very fine black yarn for facial embroidery
• Toy stuffing
• A pair of knitting needles suitable for your yarn choice
• Double-pointed needles if you prefer working small tubes in the round
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Small buttons: five for the bunny coat front and one for the bag flap

Suggested Yarn Weight and Gauge

Use a light DK or fine worsted yarn for the bunny and accessories. The fabric in the image is smooth, dense, and neat, so knit slightly tightly to keep stuffing from showing through.

A useful gauge is about 26 to 28 stitches and 36 to 40 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch, after blocking lightly. Exact gauge matters less than firmness and matching proportions.

Finished Size

• Bunny: about 11 to 12 inches tall from foot to top of head, not including the soft height of the beret
• Fox: about 5 to 5.5 inches tall
• Basket: about 2 inches across
• Book: about 2 inches wide when opened
• Watering can: about 2 inches tall to the top of the body

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• rep = repeat

Construction Notes

The set is made from separate knitted pieces that are sewn together neatly. This gives you the clean sculpted shape seen in the image and makes it easier to control the angle of the ears, the curve of the cheeks, and the way the clothes sit.

The bunny is worked in cream first, then dressed. The coat is made separately and fastened at the center front with five buttons. The fox is a separate miniature toy with its own sweater, trousers, and tiny acorn pouch.

For the closest match to the picture, keep the bunny softly stuffed but not overfilled. The head should look rounded and smooth, the muzzle gently defined, the ears long and relaxed, and the body pleasantly weighted so it sits firmly.

Bunny Head

The bunny’s head is large, almost round, and slightly wider through the cheeks than through the crown. It should look soft rather than sharply shaped. The face is plain cream knitting with tiny black eyes and a stitched nose-mouth detail.

Head Piece 1

1. CO 14 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, inc across to last st, k1. 26 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2, inc across to last 2 sts, k2. 38 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 19: Work in stockinette, beginning with a purl row.
7. Row 20: K2, k2tog across to last 2 sts, k2. 26 sts.
8. Row 21: Purl.
9. Row 22: K1, k2tog across to last st, k1. 14 sts.
10. BO knitwise.

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Head Piece 2

Make a second piece the same as Head Piece 1.

Head Gusset

1. CO 8 sts in cream.
2. Work 30 rows in stockinette.
3. Shape the front muzzle area by increasing 1 stitch at each end on every 4th row 3 times. 14 sts.
4. Work 8 rows even.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on every 4th row 3 times. 8 sts.
6. BO.

Sew the gusset between the two head pieces, starting at the lower face and moving up over the forehead to the back of the head. Stuff gradually. Shape the cheeks by placing slightly more stuffing at the lower front sides.

Before fully closing, pinch the lower center front lightly so the muzzle sits forward just a little. The finished head should not be pointed. It should be smooth, round, and calm in expression.

Bunny Ears

The ears are long, soft, and droop straight downward from the sides of the head. They are not stiff and not strongly tapered. Each ear is narrow at the top, fuller through the center, and softly rounded at the tip.

Make 2 Ears

1. CO 8 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, inc, knit to last 2 sts, inc, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, inc, knit to last 2 sts, inc, k1. 12 sts.
6. Continue in stockinette for 28 rows.
7. Shape tip: Row 1: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
8. Row 2: Purl.
9. Repeat the last 2 rows until 6 sts remain.
10. BO.

Make a second ear the same way. Fold each ear lengthwise with the smooth knit side out. Sew the side edges together lightly, leaving the lower end open. Do not stuff the ears.

Attach each ear slightly below the crown line, one on each side of the head. Angle them to fall straight downward with a very gentle outward curve near the middle, matching the relaxed look in the image.

Bunny Body

The body is shorter than the head and pear-shaped, narrowing near the neck and broadening toward the lower half. It must support a seated pose. Keep the lower body a little more filled than the upper body.

Front Body

1. CO 16 sts in cream.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, inc across to last st, k1. 30 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 9: Work in stockinette.
5. Row 10: K2, inc, knit to last 2 sts, inc, k2. 32 sts.
6. Rows 11 to 23: Work even.
7. Row 24: K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 30 sts.
8. Row 25: Purl.
9. Repeat the last 2 rows 5 times more. 20 sts.
10. Rows 36 to 40: Work even.
11. BO.

Back Body

Make the same as Front Body.

Sew front and back together along the sides and lower edge. Stuff firmly at the base and moderately at the upper section. Leave the neck opening clear enough to sew the head in place securely.

Bunny Arms

The arms are simple tapered tubes with rounded ends. In the image they hang straight down and disappear partly under the coat sleeves. They should be slim, soft, and slightly flattened rather than bulky.

Make 2 Arms

1. CO 10 sts in cream.
2. Work 18 rows in stockinette.
3. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next RS row. 8 sts.
4. Work 4 rows even.
5. BO.

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Sew each arm into a slim tube, close the lower end with a rounded seam, and add a very small amount of stuffing. The upper end stays open for attaching to the body.

Bunny Legs and Shoes

The bunny sits with both legs extending forward. The visible feet are large, rounded, and berry-colored, with a darker sole area. The leg itself is mostly hidden under the coat, so only a short upper section is needed.

Upper Leg, Make 2

1. CO 10 sts in cream.
2. Work 10 rows in stockinette.
3. BO.

Shoe Top, Make 2

1. CO 14 sts in berry-red.
2. Work 8 rows in 1×1 rib.
3. Then work 10 rows in stockinette.
4. On the next RS row, increase evenly to 18 sts.
5. Work 8 rows even.
6. BO.

Sole, Make 2

1. CO 10 sts in deep wine.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Inc at each end. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: Knit.
5. Row 4: Inc at each end. 14 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 11: Knit.
7. Row 12: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. 12 sts.
8. Row 13: Knit.
9. Row 14: K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. 10 sts.
10. BO.

Sew each shoe top into a rounded slipper shape and attach a sole underneath. Stuff well, especially at the toe, because the feet in the image are plump and prominent. Join a cream upper leg to the back top of each shoe.

When attaching the legs to the lower body, place them slightly forward so the bunny sits naturally and the large shoes point out toward the viewer. This helps recreate the exact seated pose shown.

Bunny Beret

The beret is soft, berry-red, and generously shaped, with the fullness leaning toward one side. The edge is ribbed and sits low on the head. A tiny stem sits at the top center.

Beret Band

1. CO 48 sts in berry-red.
2. Work 8 rows in 1×1 rib.
3. Join carefully if working in the round, or continue flat and seam later.

Beret Crown

1. Increase evenly across the next round or row to 76 sts.
2. Work 14 rounds or rows in stockinette.
3. Begin crown shaping by dividing stitches into 8 sections.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at the end of each section every other round or every RS row until 16 sts remain.
5. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and draw tight.

Make a tiny top stem by using a short length of yarn or by knitting an i-cord of 3 stitches for 3 rows. Attach it to the center. Lightly flatten the beret and tilt it to one side before sewing in place with a few hidden stitches.

Bunny Coat

The coat is the standout clothing piece. It is cream with evenly spaced berry-red stripes, a deep wine rounded collar, long striped sleeves, and five front buttons. It falls below the bunny’s knees and opens slightly at the hem when seated.

The easiest way to match the picture is to knit the coat as separate fronts, one back, two sleeves, and one collar. The stripe sequence should be narrow and regular. Work four cream rows, then two berry-red rows, repeating throughout the main body.

Back Coat

1. CO 34 sts in cream.
2. Work the stripe pattern for 36 rows.
3. Shape armholes by binding off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 30 sts.
4. Work 12 rows even.
5. Shape shoulders by binding off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
6. BO remaining center stitches for back neck.

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Left Front Coat

1. CO 18 sts in cream.
2. Work the same stripe pattern for 36 rows.
3. At the front edge, make five buttonhole positions spaced evenly along the body by binding off 1 stitch and casting it on again on the next row.
4. Shape armhole on the side edge to match the back.
5. Shape neckline by decreasing 1 stitch at the front edge every 4th row 4 times.
6. Bind off shoulder to match the back.

Right Front Coat

Work as for the Left Front Coat, reversing shaping and omitting buttonholes.

Sleeves, Make 2

1. CO 18 sts in cream.
2. Work the same stripe pattern for 24 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end every 8th row 3 times. 24 sts.
3. Bind off 2 sts at the start of the next 2 rows.
4. Then decrease 1 stitch at each end every RS row until 12 sts remain.
5. BO.

Collar

1. CO 36 sts in deep wine.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Row 5: K2, inc across to last 2 sts, k2. Add 6 sts evenly. 42 sts.
4. Work 8 more rows in stockinette or seed stitch for a plush rounded effect.
5. BO loosely.

Sew coat shoulders first, then set in sleeves and close side and sleeve seams. Attach the collar around the neck opening, letting it spread wide and rounded. It should sit like a soft cape collar, not a narrow stand collar.

Sew five small red buttons down the center front. The coat in the image shows clear vertical spacing, with the top button near the chest and the lowest button above the hem opening.

Bunny Shoulder Bag

The bag is a small deep wine crossbody satchel resting at the bunny’s left side. It has a rounded flap, a long strap, and a single decorative button on the flap.

Bag Body

1. CO 12 sts in deep wine.
2. Work 16 rows in stockinette.
3. BO.

Fold the piece so the lower section forms the pouch and the upper section folds over as the flap. Round the flap corners slightly during seaming. Sew side seams.

Bag Strap

1. CO 3 sts in deep wine.
2. Work i-cord or narrow garter strip until long enough to cross the bunny from shoulder to opposite hip.
3. BO and attach securely.

Add one small button to the flap. Stitch the strap diagonally across the coat so the bag sits just below the left arm, as shown in the picture.

Fox Friend

The fox is small, slim, and upright, reaching roughly to the bunny’s elbow height. It has an orange head, dark pointed ears, a white muzzle, tiny black eyes, a blue sweater, brown trousers, dark paws, and a visible orange tail tipped in white.

Fox Head Front

1. CO 10 sts in rust orange.
2. Increase evenly on the next RS row to 18 sts.
3. Work 10 rows even.
4. Shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every RS row 3 times.
5. BO.

Fox Head Back

Make the same as Fox Head Front.

Muzzle Patch

1. CO 6 sts in white.
2. Work 4 rows in stockinette.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end on the next RS row. 8 sts.
4. Work 2 rows even.
5. BO.

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Ears, Make 2

1. CO 6 sts in dark brown.
2. Work 2 rows.
3. Change to rust orange and work 2 rows.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next RS row.
5. BO remaining sts.

Sew the head pieces together, adding the muzzle patch low on the face before fully closing. Stuff lightly. Attach the ears high on the head, angled outward.

Fox Body

1. CO 12 sts in brown for the trouser base.
2. Work 8 rows in stockinette.
3. Change to blue and work 10 rows for the sweater.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at each end on the next RS row. 10 sts.
5. Work 4 rows even.
6. BO.

Fox Back Body

Make the same as the front. Sew together and stuff lightly.

Fox Arms, Make 2

1. CO 4 sts in dark brown.
2. Work 2 rows.
3. Change to blue and work 10 rows.
4. BO.

Fox Legs, Make 2

1. CO 4 sts in dark brown.
2. Work 3 rows.
3. Change to brown and work 8 rows.
4. BO.

Fox Tail

1. CO 5 sts in white.
2. Work 2 rows.
3. Change to rust orange and increase to 7 sts on the next RS row.
4. Work 10 rows.
5. Decrease to 5 sts.
6. Work 2 rows and BO.

Attach the fox head to the body. Add arms at shoulder level and legs so the fox stands upright. Sew the tail to the back right side, curving it outward so a little orange is visible from the front.

Fox Acorn Pouch

The fox carries a small acorn-shaped pouch in one hand. It is tiny but important for matching the image exactly.

1. CO 6 sts in warm brown.
2. Work 4 rows.
3. Increase to 8 sts and work 4 more rows.
4. Change to dark brown and work 3 rows for the cap.
5. BO.

Fold and seam into a tiny oval pouch. Add a short narrow handle or loop. Stitch it into the fox’s hand so it rests at the side.

Open Book

The book lies open in front of the fox and bunny. It has white pages and a warm brown outer edge or cover underlayer.

Pages, Make 2

1. CO 8 sts in white.
2. Work 10 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.

Cover Base

1. CO 18 sts in warm brown.
2. Work 10 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO.

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Fold the brown base gently at the center. Sew the two white page sections inside, one on each side, leaving the inner edges slightly lifted so the book appears open and softly curved instead of flat.

Berry Basket

The basket sits beside the bunny and contains three round berries. The basket is light brown with a curved handle.

Basket Base

1. CO 8 sts in warm brown.
2. Work 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Increase to 12 sts evenly.
4. Work 6 rows.
5. BO.

Seam into a shallow basket shape with a flat base and upright sides.

Basket Handle

1. CO 3 sts in warm brown.
2. Work 14 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO and attach to opposite sides of the basket.

Berries, Make 3

1. CO 6 sts in berry-red.
2. Work 6 rows in stockinette.
3. Thread yarn through stitches and gather into a small ball.
4. Add tiny green tops with two or three embroidered leaf stitches.

Place the berries into the basket and secure lightly so they remain visible and upright.

Watering Can

The watering can is knitted in leaf green. It is short and rounded, with a top handle, side handle, and a long angled spout ending in a small opening.

Can Body

1. CO 10 sts in leaf green.
2. Work 12 rows in stockinette.
3. BO.

Seam into a cylinder and close the base neatly. Lightly stuff or insert a small bit of filling so it holds shape.

Top Handle

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Work 10 rows in garter stitch.
3. BO and arch over the top.

Side Handle

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Work 6 rows.
3. BO and attach to one side in a small loop.

Spout

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Work 10 rows, increasing to 4 sts after row 3 if you want a slightly fuller base.
3. BO.

Attach the spout to the front at an upward angle. The final can should look playful and soft, not rigid.

Facial Features

The bunny’s face is simple and sweet. Place the eyes low and fairly wide apart, using tiny black embroidered stitches or very small knots. The nose is a small upside-down triangle or short vertical wedge in dark thread.

From the base of the nose, embroider a short vertical line downward. Split that line into two gentle curves to form the mouth. Keep the expression calm and neutral. Avoid making the face too smiling or cartoon-like.

For the fox, use even smaller facial stitches. Add two tiny black eyes above the white muzzle and a small black nose centered at the muzzle top. A short stitched line beneath the nose is enough to suggest the mouth.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the bunny head.
2. Attach the ears.
3. Sew and stuff the bunny body.
4. Join head to body securely.
5. Make and attach arms and legs.
6. Knit and dress the bunny in the coat.
7. Add buttons, collar, beret, and shoulder bag.
8. Make the fox completely and attach its acorn pouch.
9. Make the basket, berries, book, and watering can.
10. Check balance and seated pose before final stitching adjustments.

Styling Notes for an Exact Match

• The beret should lean softly to one side, not sit flat like a cap.
• The coat hem should spread slightly over the seated legs.
• The shoes should appear oversized and rounded.
• The collar should be deep wine and softly flared.
• The bag should cross from the bunny’s right shoulder to left hip.
• The fox should stand close to the bunny’s right side.
• The open book should lie in front of the fox.
• The watering can should sit to the far right.
• The basket of berries should sit to the bunny’s left side.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once every piece is made, arrange the full set before securing the smallest items. This makes it easier to balance the scene and copy the image closely. Adjust the bunny’s legs until the shoes face forward and the body sits upright without leaning.

Stitch the head firmly to the body with several passes of yarn around the neck seam. Add the ears so they fall naturally. Position the beret low enough to feel cozy, but high enough to leave the face fully visible.

Dress the bunny in the coat and close it with all five buttons. Attach the bag strap diagonally and let the pouch rest against the side. Place the fox very close beside the bunny, with its tail peeking from behind.

Embroider the bunny’s eyes last if needed, after the hat and coat are attached. This helps you judge the final expression. Keep the face delicate. Tiny changes in eye spacing and nose length will strongly affect the likeness.

Care Notes

• Keep the set away from rough play if it is used mainly for display.
• Store out of direct sunlight to protect the red, blue, and green shades.
• Check buttons and small accessories regularly if children may handle the set.
• Support the bunny under the body when lifting, rather than pulling on ears or clothing.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Bunny head round and evenly stuffed
• Ears attached low and hanging softly
• Beret tilted to one side
• Striped coat buttoned with five front buttons
• Wine-colored collar added
• Crossbody bag attached
• Large rounded berry shoes aligned forward
• Fox dressed in blue sweater and brown trousers
• Acorn pouch added to fox
• Basket, berries, open book, and watering can completed

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For best results, dust the finished pieces gently with clean dry hands or a very soft brush. If needed, spot clean using a cloth barely dampened with cool water and a small amount of mild wool-safe soap.

Do not soak the toys unless your yarn is fully washable and colorfast. Deep reds and dark shades may bleed if handled roughly in water. Press moisture out gently with a towel and reshape every part before drying flat.

When storing for a season, wrap the set in clean tissue or cotton fabric and place it in a dry box. Keep heavy items off the bunny’s ears and off the fox’s tail so the shapes remain smooth and true.