Hazelnut Bearhood Bunny – Knitting

This sweet woodland set brings together a gentle bunny in a bear-eared hood, a cozy cream dress with bear pockets, a tiny shoulder bag, classic Mary Jane shoes, a small carrot, a fruit basket, a rolled blanket, and a dressed fox friend with a pumpkin. It is designed for knit toy lovers who enjoy collectible handmade dolls, heirloom nursery decor, gift knitting, stuffed animal sets, and charming seasonal pieces. The finished display feels warm, storybook-inspired, and perfect for anyone searching for a knitted bunny doll, woodland toy set, or handmade nursery gift.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This design is built around a tall, softly shaped bunny with long hanging ears, a rounded head, a simple embroidered face, and a calm seated posture.

The outfit is just as important as the bunny body. The cream dress has deep brown trim, two bear-face patch pockets, and a small crossbody bag with a buttoned flap.

The hood is separate and slightly oversized. It sits low on the forehead and includes two rounded bear ears placed high on the crown.

To match the image closely, keep all fabrics smooth, all stuffing even, and all lines gentle rather than sharply sculpted. The whole set should feel soft, balanced, and slightly rustic.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate.

• Basic knit and purl stitches
• Working in the round and flat
• Simple increases and decreases
• Picking up stitches
• Mattress stitch and whipstitch seaming
• Light embroidery for the face
• Small decorative finishing

Finished Size

The bunny should sit at about 13 to 15 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the top of the head, not including the full ear length.

With ears hanging down, the full figure appears taller. The fox should be much smaller, around 6 to 7 inches tall seated. The accessories are scaled to the bunny and fox exactly as shown.

• Bunny head: large and rounded, about one third of the visible height
• Body and skirted torso: slightly narrower than the head
• Arms: medium length, softly tapered, ending just below the waistline
• Legs: long, straight, and evenly stuffed
• Ears: long, flat, and draping well below the hood edge
• Fox: small enough to sit beside the bunny without competing for height

Materials

• DK weight yarn in cream
• DK weight yarn in dark chocolate brown
• DK weight yarn in light hazelnut beige
• DK weight yarn in rusty orange
• DK weight yarn in moss green
• DK weight yarn in apple red
• DK weight yarn in bright red
• DK weight yarn in light green
• DK weight yarn in pumpkin orange
• Small amount of black yarn or embroidery floss
• Very small amount of white yarn for fox tail tip if desired
• 2.75 mm to 3.25 mm double-pointed needles or preferred needles for tight toy knitting
• Set of straight needles in the same size if you prefer knitting some pieces flat
• Toy stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Waste yarn
• Small button for the bunny bag
• Thin cardboard circle for the basket base if you want extra structure

Gauge

Gauge is not critical, but your fabric must be tight enough that stuffing does not show through.

A good toy gauge is approximately 28 to 32 stitches over 4 inches in stockinette using DK yarn and small needles. If your stitches look open, go down a needle size.

Color Placement Notes

• The bunny body, head, ears, arms, and legs are cream
• The hood is light hazelnut beige with dark brown bear ears
• The dress is cream with dark brown collar, cuffs, hem, and bear pocket details
• The shoes are dark brown
• The bag is dark brown with a cream or wood-tone button
• The fox is orange with dark paws, dark ear tips, a dark nose, and a green hat and scarf
• The basket is beige
• The blanket is beige
• The carrot is orange with a green top
• The fruit includes red and green apples
• The pumpkin is orange with a green stem

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Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• Ssk = slip, slip, knit
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Garter = knit every row when working flat
• Rnd = round
• Rep = repeat
• BO = bind off
• CO = cast on
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Construction Order

1. Knit the bunny legs and body
2. Knit the head
3. Knit the arms
4. Knit the long ears
5. Knit the dress details and attach bear pockets
6. Knit the hood and bear ears
7. Knit the shoes
8. Knit the crossbody bag
9. Knit the fox
10. Knit the basket, apples, carrot, pumpkin, and rolled blanket
11. Assemble and finish all facial details

Bunny Legs

Make 2 in cream. These legs are long, straight, and gently rounded at the ends. They should not be chubby. The image shows slim legs with a neat, tidy silhouette.

You may knit each leg in the round from the foot opening upward. Stuff lightly as you go, keeping the ankle firm but not stiff.

1. CO 12 stitches and divide evenly across needles. Join carefully.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in each stitch around. 24 stitches.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K1, Kfb, repeat around. 36 stitches.
6. Work 6 rounds in knit for the rounded foot end.
7. Begin narrowing to form the lower leg: K4, K2tog, repeat around. 30 stitches.
8. Knit 3 rounds.
9. Next round: K3, K2tog, repeat around. 24 stitches.
10. Work straight in stockinette until leg measures about 5 inches from the foot end.
11. Stuff the foot fully and the leg firmly but not hard.
12. For the top of the leg, work 1 round purl if you want a turning line for joining inside the body.
13. Leave stitches live or BO loosely, depending on your preferred joining method.

If knitting flat, seam neatly along the inner side of the leg so the outer front remains smooth and photo-clean.

Bunny Body

The bunny wears a dress-like lower body, but the underlying shape is still a stuffed knitted torso. The widest area sits at the lower half, then it narrows toward the neck.

Join both legs onto one set of needles, leaving a gap of 2 to 4 stitches between them if needed, and pick up stitches in the gap on the next round to avoid holes.

1. With both legs ready, place 24 stitches from first leg and 24 from second leg onto one set of needles. 48 stitches total.
2. Work 4 rounds in knit.
3. Increase for lower body fullness: K7, Kfb, repeat around. 54 stitches.
4. Knit 6 rounds.
5. Increase again lightly: K8, Kfb, repeat around. 60 stitches.
6. Work straight for 8 to 10 rounds.
7. Begin gentle waist shaping: K8, K2tog, repeat around. 54 stitches.
8. Knit 4 rounds.
9. Next shaping round: K7, K2tog, repeat around. 48 stitches.
10. Knit 6 rounds.
11. Stuff body firmly at lower section and a bit more lightly near the chest.
12. Shape upper torso: K6, K2tog, repeat around. 42 stitches.
13. Knit 4 rounds.
14. Next round: K5, K2tog, repeat around. 36 stitches.
15. Work 4 rounds.
16. Create neck: K4, K2tog, repeat around. 30 stitches.
17. Work 3 rounds.

The body should now look softly pear-shaped, with a rounded lower section under the dress and a clean narrow neck ready for the head.

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Bunny Head

The head is large, smooth, and close to spherical, but very slightly taller than wide. The muzzle is not a separate big snout. Instead, it is created with subtle shaping and careful face embroidery.

1. From neck stitches, begin head in cream.
2. Increase round: K1, Kfb around. 60 stitches.
3. Knit 6 rounds.
4. Increase round: K4, Kfb, repeat around. 72 stitches.
5. Knit 8 rounds.
6. If you want extra crown fullness, work one more increase round to 80 stitches, then knit 4 rounds.
7. Begin head decrease: K8, K2tog, repeat around.
8. Knit 2 rounds.
9. Next decrease: K7, K2tog, repeat around.
10. Knit 2 rounds.
11. Continue this pattern, reducing one plain stitch between decreases every other round until 24 stitches remain.
12. Stuff the head very firmly, especially the cheeks and forehead.
13. Thread yarn through remaining stitches and close tightly.

After stuffing, massage the head shape with your hands so it looks perfectly round from the front. The face area should remain smooth with no lump for the nose.

Bunny Arms

Make 2 in cream. The arms are soft tubes with very light tapering and rounded paw ends. They hang downward with a relaxed bend.

1. CO 10 stitches and join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: Kfb around. 20 stitches.
3. Knit 4 rounds.
4. Decrease slightly: K3, K2tog, repeat around. 16 stitches.
5. Work straight until arm measures about 4 inches.
6. Stuff only the lower half firmly. Keep upper arm softer for easier attachment.
7. Flatten opening and BO or leave a tail for sewing.

When attached, the upper arms should angle down and slightly forward, not straight out to the side.

Bunny Ears

Make 2 in cream. These ears are long, wide near the top, and softly tapered to rounded ends. They are not wired. They drape naturally below the hood edge.

For the smoothest look, knit each ear flat as two matching pieces and seam them, or knit one flat piece, fold lengthwise, and seam lightly. A lightly stuffed ear would look too thick, so leave them unstuffed.

1. CO 12 stitches.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Purl.
4. Work in stockinette for 8 rows.
5. Increase row: K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1. 14 stitches.
6. Work 6 rows even.
7. Increase the same way every 6th row twice more until 18 stitches.
8. Work straight until ear measures about 6 to 7 inches.
9. Begin taper: K1, Ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.
10. Purl back.
11. Repeat taper every 4th row until 8 stitches remain.
12. Work 2 rows.
13. Repeat taper every RS row until 4 stitches remain.
14. K2tog twice, then draw yarn through final stitches.

Make a second matching side if you prefer double-layer ears. Seam neatly around edges, leaving the base open. Lightly steam if needed so the ears lie smooth and flat.

Dress Base

The dress in the image appears integrated with the bunny body rather than a fully removable separate garment. For the closest result, make a fixed dress shell that sits over the body and closes invisibly at the back, or pick up stitches around the waist and knit it downward.

This version uses a separate shell for easy finishing and precise trim placement.

1. In cream, CO enough stitches to fit comfortably around the bunny waist and lower torso. For most gauges, 72 stitches is a good starting point.
2. Work flat if you want a back seam, or in the round if you prefer a closed shell.
3. Knit 2 rows in dark brown garter for the hem trim.
4. Change to cream and work in stockinette for the skirt.
5. Increase lightly on the first cream row for soft flare if needed.
6. Work until the skirt reaches from upper thigh to just under the arm line when fitted on the bunny.
7. At the waist area, decrease evenly to shape inward slightly.
8. Continue upward for the bodice, keeping the front plain and smooth.
9. At underarm height, divide for front and back if knitting flat.
10. Create a gentle scoop or straight opening for neckline depending on your chosen finish.
11. Seam dress neatly onto bunny or close at back after fitting.

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The final dress should sit straight, with modest fullness. It should not puff outward too far. In the image, the silhouette is calm and tidy.

Dress Trim

The trim is one of the main visual anchors in the design. It appears at the neckline, sleeve cuffs, and lower hem in dark brown.

• Hem trim: dark brown band about 3 to 4 rows high
• Neck trim: dark brown band about 2 to 3 rows high
• Cuffs: dark brown edging around the lower sleeve ends

If your dress is separate, add the neckline trim by picking up stitches around the neck opening and knitting 2 to 3 rounds in dark brown, then BO neatly.

For cuffs, pick up stitches around the lower arm openings after the arms are attached through the dress sleeve line, or simply embroider a mock cuff band using duplicate stitch if needed.

Bear Patch Pockets

These two pockets are extremely important. They sit low on the front skirt and each pocket is shaped like a stylized dark brown bear head with a cream muzzle area and a tiny dark nose line.

Make 2 pocket bases in dark brown.

1. CO 10 stitches in dark brown.
2. Work in stockinette for 6 rows.
3. Increase at each side on next RS row. 12 stitches.
4. Work 4 rows even.
5. Increase at each side again. 14 stitches.
6. Work 2 rows.
7. Shape the upper head curve with one decrease at each side every RS row twice.
8. BO loosely.

For each pocket ear, make 2 tiny half-circles in dark brown by casting on 4 stitches, working 2 short rows with one increase, and binding off. Sew ears to the top corners.

For the cream muzzle, embroider or knit a small oval patch and sew it centrally onto each pocket.

Embroider a vertical nose and short mouth line in dark brown or black. Keep it extremely minimal, just as in the image.

Sew each pocket onto the lower front skirt, one on each side, leaving the upper edge slightly open if you want real pockets, or sew flat for stability.

Mary Jane Shoes

The shoes are dark brown and rounded, with a strap across the front and a tiny button detail at the side. They should fit over the lower foot neatly without bulk.

Make 2.

1. CO 10 stitches in dark brown.
2. Work a flat oval sole by increasing at each end on every RS row until you have 18 stitches.
3. Work 4 rows even.
4. Pick up stitches around the sole edge and knit upward in the round for 4 rounds.
5. Begin toe shaping by working centered decreases across the front half on every other round.
6. When the shoe cup fits over the foot, knit a short strap separately.
7. For strap, CO 4 stitches and work 8 to 10 rows in garter.
8. Sew one end at the outer side of the shoe, lay strap across the instep, and anchor on the inner side.
9. Add a tiny button or a French-knot style detail.

The opening should leave cream leg showing above the front just like the picture. Do not make full booties.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is small, square-ish, and knitted in dark brown with a long narrow strap. It sits across the bunny from left shoulder to right hip in the image.

1. CO 14 stitches in dark brown.
2. Work in garter or firm stockinette for 16 rows to form the front panel.
3. Continue for 16 more rows for the back panel.
4. Add 6 to 8 rows for the flap.
5. Round the flap corners slightly with one decrease at each side on alternate rows.
6. BO.
7. Fold front and back sections together and seam sides.

For the strap:

1. CO 3 stitches in dark brown.
2. Knit i-cord or narrow garter strip until strap wraps from shoulder to opposite hip.
3. Sew securely to bag sides.

Add a small light button to the flap center. Position the bag so it sits just above the right bear pocket, not too low.

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Bearhood

The hood is soft beige with a folded lower edge and two rounded dark brown bear ears with beige inner circles. It is worn low, framing the face and allowing the long bunny ears to hang down behind and below it.

This hood is best made as a bonnet-style piece with a back head curve.

1. In hazelnut beige, CO 56 stitches.
2. Work 10 rows in garter to create the folded brim look.
3. Continue in stockinette for 18 rows.
4. Begin bonnet shaping by working short rows or decreasing at each side every RS row.
5. When the rectangle wraps from one cheek over the crown to the other cheek, seam the top-back portion into a curved hood.
6. Try on the bunny and adjust so the front edge sits low over the forehead.

For each bear ear outer piece, use dark brown.

1. CO 6 stitches.
2. Increase at each side every RS row until 14 stitches.
3. Work 4 rows even.
4. Decrease at each side every RS row until 6 stitches.
5. BO.

For each inner ear piece, repeat in beige but stop at 10 stitches wide and slightly smaller overall.

Sew beige inner ear onto brown outer ear. Fold very slightly at the base so the ear cups gently. Sew both ears high on the hood crown, spaced evenly.

Attach the hood to the bunny with a few hidden stitches if you want it fixed in place. Feed the long bunny ears downward under the hood edge so they hang on both sides.

Face Embroidery

The face is very simple and must remain delicate. Use small black eyes set widely apart, about the width of the muzzle area. The nose and mouth form a tiny Y shape in dark brown.

• Eyes: tiny knots or safety-style embroidered dots
• Nose: very short vertical center stitch
• Mouth: two angled stitches meeting beneath the nose
• No blush, eyelashes, or heavy contouring

Place the eyes slightly below the horizontal center of the head because the hood sits low and the face in the image looks gentle and childlike.

Small Carrot

The carrot lies beside the basket and is slim, short, and knitted in orange with a tiny green top.

1. In orange, CO 12 stitches and divide in the round.
2. Knit 2 rounds.
3. Decrease evenly every 2 rounds until 4 stitches remain.
4. Stuff lightly as you go.
5. Close tip.

For the top:

1. In green, CO 3 stitches for each leaf strip.
2. Knit 4 short rows for 3 separate strips.
3. Sew to carrot top.

Fruit Basket

The basket is beige, open at the top, with a rounded bowl shape and an arched handle. It holds three apples in the image.

1. CO 6 stitches in beige and join in the round.
2. Increase evenly over several rounds until base is the size of a small coin.
3. Work without increasing for a few rounds.
4. Begin shaping walls by knitting through the back loop on one round for a turning ridge if desired.
5. Continue upward, increasing slightly at first, then working straight to form a bowl.
6. BO neatly.

For handle:

1. CO 4 stitches in beige.
2. Work i-cord or garter strip long enough to arch over basket opening.
3. Sew to opposite basket sides.

If you want the basket to stand cleanly for display, insert a cardboard circle in the base before final closing or stitch a firm felt circle inside.

Apples

Make 3 tiny apples in mixed colors like bright red, deep red, and light green.

1. CO 6 stitches in chosen fruit color and join in the round.
2. Increase to 18 stitches over a few rounds.
3. Knit 3 rounds.
4. Decrease gradually back to 6 stitches.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

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Add a tiny brown stem to each apple and, if desired, a tiny green leaf on one fruit for extra charm.

Rolled Blanket

The rolled blanket is beige and placed on the right side behind the fox. It looks textured, simple, and practical.

1. CO 24 stitches in beige.
2. Work in seed stitch, garter, or simple rib for a pleasing blanket texture.
3. Knit until piece measures around 8 to 10 inches long.
4. BO.
5. Roll tightly from one short end.
6. Secure with a few hidden stitches.

Keep the roll compact. It should look like a miniature picnic or travel blanket rather than a cushion.

Fox Body

The fox is a small companion figure with a seated posture, orange body, cream muzzle and chest, dark paws, pointed ears, and a white-tipped tail if desired. It wears a green hat and scarf and holds a pumpkin.

Begin with the legs and lower body in dark brown or very dark rust for the paws.

1. Make 2 tiny legs with 8 stitches each, working short tubes.
2. Join them and switch to orange for the torso.
3. Increase lightly to create a rounded belly.
4. Work 6 to 8 rounds.
5. Shape neck with a small decrease round.

Fox Head

1. From neck, knit upward in orange.
2. Increase quickly over 2 rounds to form a head larger than the torso.
3. Work a few even rounds.
4. Add a cream muzzle patch later rather than knitting in colorwork unless you prefer advanced shaping.
5. Decrease at crown and stuff firmly.

The face should be smaller and sharper than the bunny face. Add tiny black eyes and a pointed black nose.

Fox Arms and Tail

Make 2 slim orange arms with dark paws. Keep them short and close to the body because the fox is holding the pumpkin.

For the tail:

1. CO 8 stitches in orange.
2. Increase to 14 stitches.
3. Work a short tapered tube.
4. Switch to white for the final few rounds if you want the tail tip shown clearly.
5. Stuff lightly and close.

Sew the tail so it peeks at the side of the fox body, visible but not oversized.

Fox Hat

The fox hat is green and soft, with small ear openings or simply enough spacing to allow the fox ears to show. The top has a tiny nub or stem-like point.

1. CO 24 stitches in moss green and join.
2. Work 3 rounds in rib or garter-textured edge.
3. Knit upward for 6 rounds.
4. Decrease evenly every other round until top gathers.
5. Add a tiny i-cord nub at the crown.

If preferred, sew hat around the ear bases rather than forcing ear holes.

Fox Scarf

1. CO 4 stitches in moss green.
2. Work in garter for a length that wraps once around the fox neck with short tails.
3. BO.

Wrap and tack the scarf in place so it looks snug and tidy.

Pumpkin

The pumpkin is small, round, and ribbed-looking. It rests in front of the fox.

1. CO 6 stitches in pumpkin orange and join.
2. Increase evenly to 24 stitches.
3. Work 4 rounds.
4. Decrease evenly back to 6 stitches.
5. Stuff firmly and close.

Use a strand of orange yarn to indent sections from top to bottom, creating pumpkin ridges. Add a tiny green stem at the crown.

Assembly of the Bunny

1. Check that both legs are equally stuffed and aligned.
2. Shape the lower body so the bunny sits naturally.
3. Attach arms at the upper side body, slightly forward.
4. Sew ears to the head high enough that they emerge correctly beneath the hood.
5. Fit the dress shell and stitch invisibly.
6. Add cuffs, neckline trim, and hem trim if not already completed.
7. Sew both bear pockets symmetrically to the lower front dress.
8. Put on the shoes and stitch them lightly into place.
9. Add the crossbody bag from left shoulder to right hip.
10. Place hood on head and sew discreetly.

Keep pausing to compare the front silhouette. The bunny should look balanced, with the head centered, the dress hanging evenly, and both feet pointing forward.

Assembly of the Fox and Props

1. Sew fox head to body
2. Attach arms low and forward
3. Attach tail at the back side
4. Add muzzle patch and face details
5. Put on hat and scarf
6. Place pumpkin between paws and tack lightly if desired
7. Arrange basket with apples
8. Place carrot beside basket
9. Roll blanket and set beside fox

The props should feel like part of one quiet garden scene. Keep all pieces small and charming rather than overly detailed or oversized.

Styling Notes for an Accurate Look

• The bunny is cream, not stark white
• The brown used throughout is rich and deep, not black
• The hood brim folds softly and sits low
• The bear ears on the hood are rounded and clearly visible
• The dress trim is neat and even
• The bear pockets are bold enough to stand out
• The bag strap crosses diagonally and stays slim
• The shoes are rounded and classic
• The fox is compact and friendly, not realistic
• The blanket roll stays simple and neutral

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Before closing any final seams, sit the bunny upright and check the proportions from the front. The head should appear slightly oversized, the torso softly rounded, and the legs long and straight. Adjust stuffing gently with your fingers wherever the shape looks uneven.

Place the eyes first and view the face from several angles. Tiny changes make a big difference. Once the eyes are balanced, add the short nose and mouth lines. Keep the expression calm, sweet, and minimal.

Attach the hood only after the facial features are complete. Let the front edge frame the face without covering the eyes. Tuck the long ears so they fall naturally below the hood and create the same soft drape seen in the image.

Care Notes

• Display indoors away from strong direct sunlight
• Dust gently with clean dry hands or a soft brush
• Spot clean small marks with a barely damp cloth
• Avoid soaking stuffed pieces unless absolutely necessary
• Reshape while drying if any cleaning is done

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered on neck
• Arms attached evenly
• Legs equal in length
• Dress hem level
• Bear pockets matched in height
• Hood placed low but not over the eyes
• Bag strap secure
• Shoes facing forward
• Fox scaled smaller than bunny
• All props neatly finished

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

For long-term preservation, keep the set in a dry room with stable temperature and low humidity. If storing, wrap each piece in clean tissue and place in a breathable box. Do not compress the ears, hood, or fox hat during storage.

If a deeper clean is ever needed, test a hidden area first. Use mild soap and cool water only on the surface, then blot carefully. Allow every piece to air dry fully before returning it to display. Avoid heat, bleach, and rough handling.