Knitting Tutorial: The “Potted Fern” Bunny – Free Knitting Pattern

This charming knitted bunny is designed as a soft, heirloom-style toy with a calm woodland feel and a beautifully styled plant theme. The finished piece is perfect for nursery decor, handmade gift ideas, seasonal display, or shoppers looking for a knitted bunny doll pattern, stuffed rabbit toy, artisan nursery plush, handmade Easter bunny gift, or collectible knitted softie design. With a floppy-eared bunny, a mossy green hat, a fern-decorated dress, a rust apron, tiny sandals, and a small knitted flowerpot held in both paws, this project creates a polished display toy with boutique appeal.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written to closely match the bunny shown in the image: a seated cream bunny with a rounded head, long narrow ears, slim arms, long crossed legs, a white dress with embroidered fern motifs, a terracotta apron, brown sandals, a green bucket-style hat, and a small orange-brown flowerpot containing textured fern stems.

The toy is worked mostly flat in rows and seamed, because that structure helps create the sculpted, old-fashioned shape visible in the photo. Small parts are worked separately and attached carefully at specific angles. The face is intentionally simple, with two black eyes and a stitched nose-mouth detail.

The proportions matter in this design. The head is large but not oversized, the torso is slim, the arms are soft and curved inward, the ears fall naturally beside the face, and the legs are narrow and noticeably long so they can cross neatly while seated on an edge.

Finished Size

• Approximate finished seated height: 14 inches / 35.5 cm from top of hat to bottom of feet
• Approximate standing body length without hat: 12.5 inches / 32 cm
• Head width: 4 inches / 10 cm
• Torso height: 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm
• Leg length from hip seam to toe: 6 inches / 15 cm
• Arm length: 4.25 inches / 11 cm
• Ear length: 4.75 inches / 12 cm
• Flowerpot height: 2 inches / 5 cm

Materials

• Main bunny color: DK weight yarn in warm cream or soft ivory
• Dress color: DK weight yarn in the same cream/ivory as the body
• Apron color: DK weight yarn in muted terracotta, clay, or dusty rust
• Hat color: DK weight yarn in moss green
• Sandals and pot rim handle: DK weight yarn in medium taupe-brown
• Flowerpot: DK weight yarn in warm orange-brown or terracotta pumpkin tone
• Fern stems and leaves: DK weight yarn in deep forest green
• Embroidery for dress leaves: fingering, sock yarn, or separated plies of green yarn
• Eyes: 6 mm black safety eyes or black embroidery thread
• Stuffing: polyester toy filling
• Optional weight: a small pouch of clean pellets for the lower body
• Knitting needles: US 3 / 3.25 mm straight needles for most pieces
• Optional smaller needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm for pot and sandals if you knit loosely
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Pins for assembly
• Scissors

Gauge

Gauge is important because the toy must hold its shape firmly.

• 24 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using DK yarn on US 3 / 3.25 mm needles

A slightly firm fabric is best. If your fabric looks loose or stuffing shows through, go down one needle size.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• k = knit
• p = purl
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• st st = stockinette stitch
• inc = increase by knitting into front and back of stitch
• k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• rep = repeat
• rem = remaining

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Construction Notes

The bunny is made from separate pieces: head, front body, back body, two arms, two legs, two ears, dress skirt, apron, hat brim and crown, flowerpot, handle, and knitted fern pieces. The leaves on the dress are embroidered after assembly.

Work each piece neatly and keep row counts exact. Many soft toy patterns can be adjusted by eye, but this design relies on very specific shaping to match the image. Take time with stuffing and seaming because those steps control the final silhouette as much as the knitting itself.

Head

Make 2 in cream. The head is worked flat from lower neck edge upward, with a soft rounded top and gentle cheek fullness. Each head panel is identical.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1 (WS): p all sts.
3. Row 2: k all sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, inc, k14, inc, k1. 20 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k2, inc, k14, inc, k2. 22 sts.
8. Row 7: p all sts.
9. Row 8: k all sts.
10. Row 9: p all sts.
11. Row 10: k2, inc, k16, inc, k2. 24 sts.
12. Rows 11 to 19: work 9 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
13. Row 20: k all sts.
14. Row 21: p all sts.
15. Row 22: k2, ssk, k16, k2tog, k2. 22 sts.
16. Row 23: p all sts.
17. Row 24: k2, ssk, k14, k2tog, k2. 20 sts.
18. Row 25: p all sts.
19. Row 26: k1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
20. Row 27: p all sts.
21. Row 28: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
22. Row 29: p all sts.
23. Row 30: k all sts.
24. Row 31: p2tog across. 8 sts.
25. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight.

Do not sew the head yet. Set both panels aside until facial placement is prepared.

Body

The body is slim and slightly tapered, narrower at the neck and gently wider at the base. Make 2 in cream.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: work 4 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 5: k1, inc, k14, inc, k1. 18 sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Row 7: k all sts.
6. Row 8: p all sts.
7. Row 9: k2, inc, k14, inc, k2. 20 sts.
8. Rows 10 to 17: work 8 rows in st st.
9. Row 18: k2, ssk, k12, k2tog, k2. 18 sts.
10. Row 19: p all sts.
11. Row 20: k all sts.
12. Row 21: p all sts.
13. Row 22: k1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
14. Rows 23 to 26: work 4 rows in st st.
15. BO all sts knitwise on RS.

The upper bound-off edge is the neck edge. The wider cast-on edge is the lower body.

Legs

Make 4 panels total in cream, 2 for each leg. These long slim legs are essential to the character of the bunny. The feet are lightly shaped and only softly stuffed so the legs drape naturally.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: work 6 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 7: k1, inc, k8, inc, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 8: p all sts.
5. Rows 9 to 16: work 8 rows in st st.
6. Row 17: k all sts.
7. Row 18: p2, p2tog, p4, p2tog, p2. 10 sts.
8. Rows 19 to 34: work 16 rows in st st.
9. Row 35: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 36: p all sts.
11. Rows 37 to 42: work 6 rows in st st.
12. BO all sts.

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The fuller end forms the foot. The narrower upper end is sewn into the lower body.

Arms

Make 4 panels total in cream, 2 for each arm. The arms must be narrow and slightly bent inward when sewn, because the bunny appears to cradle the flowerpot with both paws.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: work 4 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 5: k1, inc, k6, inc, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Rows 7 to 18: work 12 rows in st st.
6. Row 19: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
7. Row 20: p all sts.
8. Rows 21 to 24: work 4 rows in st st.
9. BO all sts.

Keep the arm panels matched in length. Slight differences will show clearly in the finished toy.

Ears

Make 4 panels total in cream, 2 for each ear. The ears are long, narrow, and softly rounded at the tips. They should hang beside the face rather than stand upright.

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: work 8 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 9: k1, inc, k6, inc, k1. 10 sts.
4. Rows 10 to 18: work 9 rows in st st.
5. Row 19: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
6. Row 20: p all sts.
7. Row 21: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
8. Row 22: p all sts.
9. Row 23: k2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
10. Row 24: p all sts.
11. Row 25: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
12. Cut yarn, draw through sts.

These ears are not stuffed. Lightly steaming before assembly can help them curve softly.

Dress Skirt

The bunny wears a cream dress that visually blends with the body. The skirt is separate and sewn around the lower torso. It flares gently and ends above the knees in front when the bunny is seated.

Make 1 in cream.

1. CO 56 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k all rows for garter hem.
3. Row 5 (RS): k all sts.
4. Row 6: p all sts.
5. Row 7: k all sts.
6. Row 8: p all sts.
7. Row 9: k2, k2tog, rep to end. 42 sts.
8. Row 10: p all sts.
9. Row 11: k all sts.
10. Row 12: p all sts.
11. Row 13: k1, k2tog, rep to last 2 sts, k2. 29 sts.
12. Row 14: p all sts.
13. Rows 15 to 20: work 6 rows in st st.
14. Row 21: k all sts.
15. Row 22: p all sts.
16. BO all sts knitwise, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Sew the side seam to form a ring. Gather the upper edge very slightly only if needed. The skirt should sit smoothly, not puff heavily.

Apron

The apron is a terracotta rectangle with simple neat edges. It sits high on the front of the bunny and covers the center of the dress. Make 1 in terracotta.

1. CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: k all rows.
3. Row 4: k2, p18, k2.
4. Repeat Row 4 for Rows 5 to 20.
5. Rows 21 to 23: k all rows.
6. BO loosely.

Weave in ends. Do not add neck ties. In the photo, the apron reads visually as a neat front panel rather than a tied apron with visible straps.

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Hat Brim

The moss green hat has a downward bucket-style brim that frames the face. Make 1.

1. CO 60 sts.
2. Join by seaming later; work flat for accuracy.
3. Rows 1 to 6: k all rows.
4. Row 7: k all sts.
5. Row 8: p all sts.
6. Row 9: k2tog across. 30 sts.
7. Cut yarn, leaving a tail.

Do not close yet. This row of decreases draws the brim inward toward the crown.

Hat Crown

Make 1 in moss green.

1. CO 30 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 14: work 14 rows in st st, beginning with a purl row.
3. Row 15: k1, k2tog, rep to end. 20 sts.
4. Row 16: p all sts.
5. Row 17: k2tog across. 10 sts.
6. Row 18: p all sts.
7. Cut yarn and draw through remaining sts.

Sew the side seam of the crown first. Then sew the brim strip into a ring. Attach the narrowed upper edge of the brim to the cast-on edge of the crown. Shape the brim so it angles gently downward, especially at the sides.

Sandals

Make 2 in taupe-brown. These are decorative overlays rather than fully separate shoes. They create the open sandal effect seen at the feet.

For each sandal, make one sole strap and one ankle strap.

Sole Strap

1. CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 10: k all rows.
3. BO.

Ankle Strap

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: k all rows.
3. BO.

The shorter strip is wrapped over the toe area. The longer strip circles the ankle area loosely and is sewn at the back.

Flowerpot Body

Make 2 panels in warm orange-brown.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: k all rows.
3. Row 4: k all sts.
4. Row 5: p all sts.
5. Row 6: k1, inc, k12, inc, k1. 16 sts.
6. Rows 7 to 14: work 8 rows in st st.
7. Row 15: k all sts.
8. Row 16: p all sts.
9. BO all sts.

Sew side and lower seams to make a soft pot shape. Add only a small amount of stuffing so the pot stays compact and slightly squashy.

Flowerpot Rim

Make 1 in the same orange-brown.

1. CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: k all rows.
3. BO.

Wrap around the upper edge of the pot and sew neatly.

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Pot Handle / Curved Vine Loop

Make 1 in taupe-brown. This detail copies the curved loop visible near the top of the pot.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: k all rows.
3. BO.

Curve it into a soft loop and sew one end near the pot rim, with the other end tucked slightly downward into the foliage area.

Fern Stems

Make 3 main stems in deep green. Each stem is a narrow i-cord substitute worked flat and folded or lightly twisted when attached. If you prefer, you may work true i-cord, but the following flat version matches the soft handmade style well.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 16: k all rows.
3. BO.

After binding off, gently roll each strip lengthwise between your fingers and tack the long edge closed during attachment so it reads as a stem.

Fern Fronds

Make 5 fronds in deep green. These are simple leaf strips shaped with pointed ends and attached along the stems to imitate fern foliage. Two should be longer, two medium, one shorter.

Long Frond – make 2

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: k all sts.
3. Row 2: p all sts.
4. Row 3: k1, k2tog, k8, ssk, k1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: p all sts.
6. Row 5: k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
7. Row 6: p all sts.
8. Row 7: k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
9. Row 8: p all sts.
10. Row 9: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
11. Row 10: p all sts.
12. Row 11: k2tog, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
13. Row 12: p all sts.
14. Row 13: k2tog twice. 2 sts.
15. Draw through sts.

Medium Frond – make 2

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work as for Long Frond from Row 1, reducing evenly every RS row until 2 sts remain.

Short Frond – make 1

1. CO 8 sts.
2. Work as for Long Frond from Row 1, reducing evenly every RS row until 2 sts remain.

Once made, snip or tease the side edges very lightly with a needle tip and add small whipstitched side veins if desired. Another neat option is to stitch the fronds onto the stems with tiny angled tacks so each frond ripples slightly and resembles fern leaflets.

Dress Leaf Embroidery

The skirt and upper dress area feature embroidered fern-like motifs. Use dark green yarn split thinner if needed. The photo shows one small motif on the upper chest and several larger motifs spaced around the lower skirt.

Embroider after the skirt is attached to the body. Use straight stitch and detached fly-stitch style branches.

• Chest motif: one central stem about 1 inch / 2.5 cm long with 4 to 5 angled side stitches on each side
• Skirt motifs: place 3 larger fern sprays across the front hem area, each about 1.25 inches / 3 cm tall
• Optional side motifs: add 1 smaller spray near each side seam if desired

Keep the embroidery delicate. The motifs should look like botanical accents, not bold graphic elements.

Making Up the Head

Place the two head panels together with RS facing out. Mattress stitch the sides and top. Leave the lower neck edge open.

Before fully closing, insert eyes. Position them approximately 7 rows down from the gathered top and about 6 stitches apart, centered horizontally. This gives the same open, calm expression seen in the image.

Stuff the head firmly but evenly. The face should be rounded, with slightly fuller cheeks and a smooth forehead. Do not overstuff the top point; massage the filling downward so the head remains spherical.

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Making Up the Body

Sew the two body panels together at the sides and lower edge, leaving the neck edge open. Stuff the body moderately. Add a little extra filling low in the torso so the seated shape holds. A tiny pellet pouch at the base can help the bunny sit securely if desired.

The body should remain softer than the head and narrower across the shoulders than across the lower torso.

Making Up the Legs

Sew each pair of leg panels together around the sides and foot curve. Leave the upper edge open. Stuff the foot area lightly and the leg shaft only very lightly. The legs must stay flexible so they can cross naturally.

Flatten the upper open edge of each leg. Sew both legs to the lower front half of the body, angled slightly forward rather than directly downward. Position them close enough together that the finished feet can cross at the ankles.

Making Up the Arms

Sew each pair of arm panels together, leaving the upper edge open. Stuff only the paw end lightly and the rest very softly. Bend each arm gently into a shallow curve.

Attach arms at the upper side of the torso just below the neck seam. Angle them inward toward the center front so both paws can hold the flowerpot. One arm should sit slightly higher than the other, matching the natural uneven pose in the image.

Making Up the Ears

Sew each pair of ear panels together. Do not stuff. Attach one ear on each side of the head, slightly behind the eye line and below the crown top. Let the ears fall downward.

The ear on the bunny’s right side in the photo hangs a little straighter, while the left ear sits partly under the hat brim. Recreate that asymmetry for the most accurate look.

Assembling the Dress and Apron

Sew the dress skirt ring around the lower torso, placing the upper edge just below the arm line. Ease it evenly so the front hangs smooth. The hem should flare softly over the tops of the legs.

Center the apron over the front of the skirt and upper body. Sew the top edge first, then tack both side edges lightly so the apron lies flat but still looks like a separate garment panel.

After this, embroider the chest fern motif and the lower skirt fern motifs using green yarn.

Adding the Sandals

Wrap one short sole strap across the top of each foot near the toe. Sew the ends underneath or at the sides. Then place the longer ankle strap around each ankle, crossing or curving it slightly to match the open sandal look. Sew at the back.

Keep the sandals snug but not tight. A little looseness helps them look soft and realistic.

Preparing the Hat

After sewing the hat crown and brim, place the hat on the head slightly tilted downward. The brim should sit low enough to frame the eyes but not cover them. In the photo, the hat dips most on the bunny’s left side and front.

Tack the hat invisibly at the sides and back only. Leave the front brim lightly free so it keeps its soft natural curve.

Making and Attaching the Flowerpot

Sew the pot body, add light stuffing, and attach the rim strip. Curve the handle piece and stitch it near the top.

Arrange the three stems emerging from the pot at slightly different heights. Attach the longest stem first, then add medium and shorter stems. Sew the fronds to the stems so the greenery spills forward and leftward, echoing the image.

The plant should look airy rather than dense. Let some fronds extend beyond the pot edge. Angle one stem upward and one toward the front.

Once the arrangement is fixed, sew the pot securely into both paws. Add a few hidden tacking stitches from pot to apron if needed so the accessory stays centered.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Join the head to the body using a strong ladder stitch. Add extra stuffing at the neck if needed before closing completely. The head should sit upright with only a tiny forward tilt.

Embroider the nose with taupe or brown yarn using a small inverted Y shape. Place it low on the face, about 3 rows below the eyes. Add a tiny horizontal mouth split beneath the nose for the quiet expression shown in the image.

A light cheek shaping thread can be added from the side seams toward the nose area if you want slightly fuller cheeks, but keep it subtle.

Care Notes

• Display use is best for this design because of the sewn accessories and hat.
• Spot clean whenever possible instead of full soaking.
• Keep out of long direct sunlight to protect the green and terracotta tones.
• Store flat or seated so the legs do not stretch out of shape.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head firmly stuffed and evenly rounded
• Ears attached low and hanging softly
• Arms angled inward to hold the pot
• Legs long, slim, and crossed at the ankles
• Hat tilted slightly forward
• Apron centered and lying flat
• Fern embroidery placed on chest and skirt front
• Flowerpot secured to both paws
• Face embroidered simply and symmetrically

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Use a soft cloth with cool water and a small amount of mild soap for spot cleaning. Blot gently and never rub the embroidered leaves or face harshly. Reshape the hat brim, ears, and limbs while damp and allow to air dry fully away from heat.

For long-term preservation, wrap the bunny in clean acid-free tissue and store in a breathable cotton bag or display cabinet. Avoid plastic storage for extended periods in humid rooms. If dust collects, use a soft dry brush with light strokes.