Knitting Tutorial: Cottagecore Basset Hound with Gnomes – Free Knitting Pattern

This cottagecore basset hound knitting pattern creates a soft seated dog with long drooping brown ears, a white muzzle blaze, soulful black eyes, olive-green sweater and pants, tiny slippers, a flower-and-berry head crown, a crossbody bee pouch, a matching fair-isle beret, and two little garden gnome companions. The finished piece is designed as a detailed display doll with warm woodland colors and charming handmade texture.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Finished Size and Construction Style

The main basset hound is worked as a seated soft sculpture. The body, head, muzzle, ears, limbs, outfit, accessories, beret, and gnomes are knitted as separate shaped pieces, then stuffed and sewn together at carefully marked angles. This gives the same relaxed seated pose shown in the image.

• Main dog height: about 14 in / 35.5 cm from seat to top of head crown.
• Seated width: about 8 in / 20.5 cm across the hips and hanging ears.
• Beret diameter: about 5 in / 12.5 cm.
• Each gnome: about 3.25 in / 8 cm tall.
• Skill level: adventurous beginner to intermediate.
• Knitting style: mostly flat stockinette pieces with seams, plus small pieces worked in the round where helpful.

The hound has a large rounded head, a long oval muzzle, low-set floppy ears, narrow seated legs, small white paws, and an olive outfit that fits closely over the body. The outfit uses simple color blocks and embroidered flowers to recreate the cottage garden panel on the sweater front.

Materials

• Yarn A: warm chestnut brown DK weight, 60 yd, for head patches and ears.
• Yarn B: ivory white DK weight, 70 yd, for muzzle, blaze, paws, and gnome beards.
• Yarn C: olive green DK weight, 120 yd, for sweater, pants, beret, and gnome clothing.
• Yarn D: dark chocolate brown DK weight, 15 yd, for patches, soles, and sweater tree section.
• Yarn E: soft tan DK weight, 25 yd, for pouch strap, slipper soles, and gnome faces.
• Yarn F: dusty rose DK weight, 15 yd, for pouch, slipper bows, berries, and flower centers.
• Yarn G: burgundy DK weight, 8 yd, for crown berries and gnome hat option.
• Yarn H: muted purple DK weight, 5 yd, for crown berries.
• Yarn I: golden yellow DK weight, 5 yd, for bee detail and flower centers.
• Yarn J: black DK or embroidery floss, small amount, for nose, eyes, claws, bee stripes, and mouth.
• Yarn K: red DK weight, 8 yd, for one gnome hat.
• Needles: US 3 / 3.25 mm straight needles.
• Small circular or double-pointed needles: US 3 / 3.25 mm for tiny round pieces if preferred.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill, about 60 g.
• Safety eyes: two 9 mm black safety eyes, or embroider eyes with black yarn.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers: for placement points.
• Small cardboard circle: optional, 3 in / 7.5 cm wide, to stabilize the seated base.

Gauge

Gauge is important for the outfit to fit the dog neatly. Work in stockinette stitch using DK yarn and US 3 / 3.25 mm needles. Your knitted fabric should be firm enough that stuffing does not show through.

• Gauge: 24 stitches and 34 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch.
• Firm toy gauge: if your fabric is loose, go down one needle size.
• Seam allowance: all edge stitches are included in the stitch counts.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• K: knit.
• P: purl.
• St st: stockinette stitch, knit right-side rows and purl wrong-side rows.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• K2tog: knit 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch.
• P2tog: purl 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch.
• Kfb: knit into front and back of the same stitch, increasing 1 stitch.
• SSK: slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped stitches together.
• M1: make 1 stitch by lifting the bar between stitches and knitting through the back loop.
• Sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise.
• Rep: repeat.

Helpful Notes Before You Begin

This pattern is written with exact row counts so each piece can be shaped and matched to the image. Keep your cast-on and bind-off edges neat because many details, such as the muzzle blaze and sweater hem, are visible from the front.

The hound is assembled in layers. First make the body, head, muzzle, legs, arms, ears, and paws. Next knit the fitted olive outfit pieces. After that, add the cottage picture panel, flowers, crown, pouch, bee, slippers, beret, and gnomes.

• Use mattress stitch for most seams.
• Stuff the head firmly but keep the muzzle softly rounded.
• Do not overstuff the ears; they should hang flat and floppy.
• Place the legs forward at a seated angle, not straight downward.
• Embroider small details after the main pieces are sewn together.

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Main Body of the Basset Hound

The body is a rounded pear shape. It is wider at the belly and hips, narrower at the neck, and flattened slightly at the seated base. This shape supports the sweater and seated pants.

Body Piece

1. With Yarn B, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
4. Row 3 and all WS rows through Row 17: Purl all sts.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
6. Row 6: K1, kfb, K18, kfb, K1. 24 sts.
7. Row 8: K2, kfb, K18, kfb, K2. 26 sts.
8. Row 10: K2, kfb, K20, kfb, K2. 28 sts.
9. Row 12: K3, kfb, K20, kfb, K3. 30 sts.
10. Row 14: K3, kfb, K22, kfb, K3. 32 sts.
11. Row 16: K4, kfb, K22, kfb, K4. 34 sts.
12. Rows 18-33: Work even in St st on 34 sts.
13. Row 34: K4, k2tog, K22, ssk, K4. 32 sts.
14. Row 35: Purl all sts.
15. Row 36: K3, k2tog, K22, ssk, K3. 30 sts.
16. Row 37: Purl all sts.
17. Row 38: K3, k2tog, K20, ssk, K3. 28 sts.
18. Row 39: Purl all sts.
19. Row 40: K2, k2tog, K20, ssk, K2. 26 sts.
20. Row 41: Purl all sts.
21. Row 42: K2, k2tog, K18, ssk, K2. 24 sts.
22. Row 43: Purl all sts.
23. Row 44: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
24. Row 45: Purl all sts.
25. Row 46: K1, k2tog, K16, ssk, K1. 20 sts.
26. Row 47: Purl all sts.
27. Row 48: K1, k2tog, K14, ssk, K1. 18 sts.
28. BO, leaving a 16 in tail.

Make a second body piece exactly the same. Place the two pieces with RS together and sew around the sides and lower edge, leaving the neck edge open. Turn RS out. Add firm stuffing, shaping the lower body into a seated oval.

If using a cardboard circle, wrap it in a small scrap of fabric or yarn and slide it into the base before fully stuffing. This helps the finished hound sit upright on a table like the image.

Head

The head is large, soft, and rounded, with a white central blaze and brown side patches. The muzzle is sewn over the front later, so keep the head smooth and symmetrical.

Back Head Piece

1. With Yarn B, CO 16 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K12, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. Row 6: K2, kfb, K14, kfb, K2. 22 sts.
8. Row 7: Purl.
9. Row 8: K2, kfb, K16, kfb, K2. 24 sts.
10. Row 9: Purl.
11. Row 10: K3, kfb, K16, kfb, K3. 26 sts.
12. Row 11: Purl.
13. Row 12: K3, kfb, K18, kfb, K3. 28 sts.
14. Rows 13-28: Work even in St st.
15. Row 29: Purl.
16. Row 30: K3, k2tog, K18, ssk, K3. 26 sts.
17. Row 31: Purl.
18. Row 32: K3, k2tog, K16, ssk, K3. 24 sts.
19. Row 33: Purl.
20. Row 34: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
21. Row 35: Purl.
22. Row 36: K2, k2tog, K14, ssk, K2. 20 sts.
23. Row 37: Purl.
24. Row 38: K1, k2tog, K14, ssk, K1. 18 sts.
25. Row 39: Purl.
26. Row 40: K1, k2tog, K12, ssk, K1. 16 sts.
27. BO.

Front Head Piece with Brown Side Patches

For the front piece, the center remains white and the sides are chestnut brown. Use small separate balls of yarn and twist colors together at each change to prevent holes.

1. With Yarn B, CO 16 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl all sts.
3. Row 2: With Yarn B, K1, kfb, K12, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl all sts with Yarn B.
5. Row 4: With Yarn A K3, Yarn B K12, Yarn A K3. 18 sts.
6. Row 5: With Yarn A P3, Yarn B P12, Yarn A P3.
7. Row 6: Yarn A K3, kfb in next st with Yarn A, Yarn B K10, kfb in next st with Yarn A, Yarn A K3. 20 sts.
8. Row 7: Purl in color pattern: 4 brown, 12 white, 4 brown.
9. Row 8: K4 brown, K12 white, K4 brown.
10. Row 9: P4 brown, P12 white, P4 brown.
11. Row 10: K5 brown, K10 white, K5 brown.
12. Row 11: P5 brown, P10 white, P5 brown.
13. Row 12: K6 brown, K8 white, K6 brown.
14. Rows 13-24: Continue St st with 6 brown sts, 8 white sts, 6 brown sts.
15. Row 25: P6 brown, P8 white, P6 brown.
16. Row 26: K5 brown, K10 white, K5 brown.
17. Row 27: P5 brown, P10 white, P5 brown.
18. Row 28: K4 brown, K12 white, K4 brown.
19. Row 29: P4 brown, P12 white, P4 brown.
20. Row 30: K3 brown, k2tog in brown, K8 white, ssk in brown, K3 brown. 18 sts.
21. Row 31: Purl in established colors.
22. Row 32: K3 brown, K10 white, K3 brown.
23. Row 33: Purl in established colors.
24. Row 34: K2 brown, k2tog brown, K8 white, ssk brown, K2 brown. 16 sts.
25. BO.

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Sew the front and back head pieces together with RS facing. Leave a 1.5 in opening at the lower neck. Turn RS out and stuff firmly. Shape the head wider across the cheeks and slightly narrower at the top.

Long White Muzzle and Nose Area

The muzzle is the most important facial feature. It is long, rounded, and oval, extending from between the eyes down toward the nose. It sits proud of the head, giving the basset hound its gentle expression.

Muzzle Piece

1. With Yarn B, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. Row 6: K2, kfb, K8, kfb, K2. 16 sts.
8. Rows 7-18: Work even in St st.
9. Row 19: Purl.
10. Row 20: K2, k2tog, K8, ssk, K2. 14 sts.
11. Row 21: Purl.
12. Row 22: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
13. Row 23: Purl.
14. Row 24: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
15. BO, leaving a long tail.

Gather lightly around the edge of the muzzle with running stitch. Add a small amount of stuffing. Pin the muzzle vertically to the front of the head, starting just below the eye line and ending near the lower face. Sew around the edge, keeping the center raised.

Black Nose

1. With Yarn J, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K4, kfb. 8 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2tog, K4, ssk. 6 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. BO.

Fold the nose piece slightly into a soft oval and sew it to the lower tip of the muzzle. Use black yarn to make satin stitches over the top until the nose looks rounded and shiny.

Eyes and Facial Expression

Place the eyes before the ears are attached. The eyes sit on the brown side patches, slightly above the widest part of the muzzle. They should look soft and downward, matching the calm expression in the image.

• Place the first eye 5 rows above the top of the muzzle and 5 stitches to the right of the white blaze.
• Place the second eye 5 rows above the muzzle and 5 stitches to the left of the white blaze.
• Use 9 mm black safety eyes, or embroider each eye with 10 small satin stitches in black.
• Add one tiny white highlight stitch at the upper outer edge of each eye.
• With black yarn, embroider a short vertical line from the nose center down 3 rows.

Long Drooping Ears

The ears are long, narrow, soft, and chestnut brown. They begin high near the head crown and hang down past the shoulders. Do not stuff them heavily. A thin layer of stuffing at the top is enough.

Ear Piece, Make 2

1. With Yarn A, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-42: Work even in St st on 12 sts.
7. Row 43: Purl.
8. Row 44: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
9. Row 45: Purl.
10. Row 46: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
11. Row 47: Purl.
12. Row 48: K1, k2tog, K2, ssk, K1. 6 sts.
13. BO.

Fold each ear lengthwise with RS together. Sew the long edge and lower curve. Turn RS out. Add only a pinch of stuffing at the top 1 in. Sew the top edge flat to the side of the head, beginning 3 rows below the crown and ending beside the cheek.

Arms and White Paws

The arms are slim, white at the paw tips, and covered by olive sweater sleeves. They hang at the sides, with the left arm near the pouch and the right arm resting beside the beret.

Arm, Make 2

1. With Yarn B, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work St st.
3. Change to Yarn C.
4. Row 5: Knit.
5. Row 6: Purl.
6. Row 7: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
7. Rows 8-25: Work St st.
8. Row 26: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
9. Row 27: Purl.
10. BO.

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Fold each arm lengthwise and sew the side seam. Stuff lightly, leaving the upper 0.5 in flat for sewing. With black yarn, embroider three short claw lines on each white paw tip. Sew the arms to the sides of the upper body, angled slightly forward.

Seated Legs and White Feet

The legs are thick and relaxed, with olive pants ending above white feet. The feet point forward and wear small tan slippers with rose bows.

Leg, Make 2

1. With Yarn B, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work St st for the white foot base.
3. Row 7: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
4. Row 8: Purl.
5. Change to Yarn C.
6. Rows 9-12: Work St st.
7. Row 13: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
8. Rows 14-32: Work St st on 14 sts.
9. Row 33: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
10. Row 34: Purl.
11. Row 35: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
12. BO.

Fold and sew each leg, leaving the upper edge open. Stuff the foot firmly and the thigh moderately. Sew the legs to the lower front body at a seated angle, with the thighs angled down and the white feet pointing forward.

Toe Details

• Use Yarn J to embroider three vertical claw lines on each foot.
• Start each claw at the top of the white foot and stitch downward 4 rows.
• Place the center claw in the middle and the side claws 2 stitches away.

Olive Green Sweater Body

The sweater is knitted as a separate fitted garment that wraps around the dog’s body. It has ribbed hems, long sleeves already suggested by the arm color, and a front cottage scene panel with flowers, houses, and tree-like color blocks.

Sweater Back and Front Wrap

1. With Yarn C, CO 40 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K2, P2 rib across.
3. Row 5: Knit.
4. Row 6: Purl.
5. Rows 7-12: Work St st.
6. Row 13: K4, M1, K32, M1, K4. 42 sts.
7. Rows 14-22: Work St st.
8. Row 23: K5, k2tog, K28, ssk, K5. 40 sts.
9. Rows 24-30: Work St st.
10. Row 31: K6, k2tog, K24, ssk, K6. 38 sts.
11. Row 32: Purl.
12. Rows 33-36: K2, P2 rib across.
13. BO in rib.

Wrap this sweater piece around the body with the ribbed hem at the lower belly. Sew the back seam at the center back, leaving the upper neck open. The front center will be covered by the picture panel.

Neckband

1. With Yarn C, pick up and knit 32 sts around the neck opening.
2. Row 1: P2, K2 rib around or across.
3. Row 2: K2, P2 rib as established.
4. Rows 3-5: Continue rib.
5. BO loosely.

Sew the head to the body through the neck opening. Tilt the head very slightly forward so the muzzle faces down and outward, like the hound in the image.

Front Cottage Picture Panel

The sweater front shows a charming patchwork cottage-garden motif. Instead of complicated intarsia across the whole sweater, knit small rectangular panels and sew them to the sweater front. Then embroider flowers and stems on top.

White Upper House Panel

1. With Yarn B, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: Work St st.
3. BO.

Embroider two small flowers on this panel. Use Yarn F for two 3-stitch flower heads, Yarn I for centers, and Yarn C for stems. Place flowers 4 stitches apart.

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Brown Center Tree or Trunk Panel

1. With Yarn D, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-14: Work St st.
3. BO.

Sew the brown panel below the white upper panel, centered. Add two small orange or rose duplicate stitches as leaves on the right side.

Lower White Patch Panels, Make 2

1. With Yarn B, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: Work St st.
3. BO.

Sew one lower white patch to the left of the brown panel and one to the right. Embroider one tiny flower on each patch using five short straight stitches around a yellow center.

Dark Brown Garden Patch

1. With Yarn D, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-8: Work St st.
3. BO.

Sew this patch at the lower right front. Add three little cream V-stitches and two rose dots to look like scattered garden blooms.

Panel Placement

• Place the white upper panel at the center chest, about 4 rows below the neckband.
• Place the brown center panel directly below it.
• Place the two white lower patches at the left and lower-left area.
• Place the dark brown garden patch at the lower-right belly area.
• Keep all pieces close together so the front looks like one cottagecore picture square.

Olive Pants

The pants appear as soft olive trouser legs covering the seated thighs. Since the legs are already knitted with an olive section, the pants are completed with a waistband and cuff details.

Waistband

1. With Yarn C, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K1, P1 rib across.
3. BO loosely.

Wrap the waistband around the lower belly just above the seated legs. Sew the ends at the back. Tack the top edge to the body in four places so it stays smooth.

Pant Cuffs, Make 2

1. With Yarn C, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: K1, P1 rib.
3. BO.

Sew one cuff around each leg where the olive pant section meets the white foot. The cuff should sit just above the ankle, matching the slightly gathered look in the image.

Tan Slippers with Rose Bows

The slippers are open, sandal-like, and sit over the white feet. They have tan soles, a front strap, and small dusty rose bows.

Sole, Make 2

1. With Yarn E, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: Kfb, K6, kfb. 10 sts.
4. Rows 3-12: Work St st.
5. Row 13: Purl.
6. Row 14: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
7. BO.

Front Strap, Make 2

1. With Yarn E, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-2: Knit all sts.
3. BO.

Sew each sole to the underside of a white foot. Sew each strap across the top of the toes, leaving the claw embroidery visible at the front.

Bow, Make 2

1. With Yarn F, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work St st.
3. BO.
4. Wrap yarn tightly around the center 5 times and tie at the back.

Sew one bow to the outer side of each slipper strap. The bows should be small, soft, and slightly raised.

Crossbody Pouch

The pouch is dusty rose and hangs across the body from shoulder to hip. It has a long tan strap and a small bee decoration on the front.

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Pouch Bag

1. With Yarn F, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work St st.
3. Row 5: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
4. Rows 6-18: Work St st.
5. Row 19: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
6. Row 20: Purl.
7. BO.

Make a second pouch piece the same. Sew the two pieces together around the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open. Add a very small amount of stuffing so the pouch is softly rounded.

Pouch Flap

1. With Yarn F, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-5: Work St st.
3. Row 6: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
4. Row 7: Purl.
5. BO.

Sew the flap to the back top edge of the pouch and fold it over the front. Tack the lower corners down with two small stitches.

Crossbody Strap

1. With Yarn E, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in garter stitch for 46 rows.
3. BO.

Sew one strap end to the upper right side of the pouch and the other end to the upper left side. Place the strap over the hound’s left shoulder and let the pouch rest near the opposite hip.

Tiny Bee Applique

The bee on the pouch is small but important. It gives the accessory the same playful garden feeling seen in the image.

Bee Body

1. With Yarn I, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: Work St st.
3. BO.

• Use Yarn J to embroider two black horizontal stripes across the yellow body.
• With Yarn B, make two small wing loops above the bee body.
• Sew the bee to the lower right front of the pouch flap.

Flower and Berry Head Crown

The crown sits across the top of the head near one ear. It includes green leaves, burgundy berries, purple berries, and a small tan leaf or flower rising at the top.

Leaf Strip

1. With Yarn C, CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: Purl.
4. Row 3: K2tog, K2, BO 1, K3, BO 1, K3, BO 1, K2, ssk.
5. Fasten off and weave in ends.

This creates a slightly uneven leafy strip. Sew it along the top of the head, beginning above the right eye and curving toward the base of one ear.

Berries, Make 5

1. With Yarn F, G, or H, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: Kfb in each st. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2tog across. 5 sts.
6. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and seam into a small ball.

Make two burgundy berries, two purple berries, and one dusty rose berry. Sew them in a cluster over the leaf strip. Keep them close together and slightly raised.

Small Tan Leaf Accent

1. With Yarn E, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, kfb, K1, kfb, K1. 7 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2tog, K3, ssk. 5 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. Row 6: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts.
8. BO.

Sew this small tan leaf upright near the berry cluster, leaning gently backward.

Matching Fair-Isle Style Beret

The beret rests beside the hound in the image. It has an olive crown, cream band area, small floral motifs, and a large pom-pom on top. This is a separate accessory.

Beret Base

1. With Yarn C, CO 48 sts.
2. Rows 1-4: K2, P2 rib across.
3. Change to Yarn B.
4. Rows 5-8: Work St st.
5. Change to Yarn C.
6. Row 9: Knit.
7. Row 10: Purl.
8. Row 11: K4, M1, rep across to last 4 sts, K4. 56 sts.
9. Rows 12-20: Work St st.
10. Row 21: K5, k2tog, rep across. 48 sts.
11. Row 22: Purl.
12. Row 23: K4, k2tog, rep across. 40 sts.
13. Row 24: Purl.
14. Row 25: K3, k2tog, rep across. 32 sts.
15. Row 26: Purl.
16. Row 27: K2, k2tog, rep across. 24 sts.
17. Row 28: Purl.
18. Row 29: K1, k2tog, rep across. 16 sts.
19. Row 30: Purl.
20. Row 31: K2tog across. 8 sts.
21. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, pull tight, and seam the side.

Beret Floral Band

Use duplicate stitch and embroidery over the cream band. Place small flowers evenly around the front half of the beret.

• Make five dusty rose flowers with four straight stitches each.
• Add one yellow center stitch to each flower.
• Add tiny green stems with two straight stitches under each flower.
• Add three chocolate brown V-stitches between flower groups.

Pom-Pom

Make a dense olive pom-pom about 1.25 in / 3 cm wide. Trim it round and sew it firmly to the beret top center. The pom-pom should be fluffy and full, like the image.

Garden Gnome Companions

The two tiny gnomes are simple knitted figures with pointy hats, white beards, small bodies, and dark shoes. One has a green hat and one has a red hat. They are decorative side pieces that complete the cottage garden scene.

Gnome Body, Make 2

1. With Yarn C for one gnome and Yarn I or muted mustard for the other, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-12: Work St st.
3. Row 13: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
4. Row 14: Purl.
5. BO.

Sew the side seam and bottom. Stuff lightly. Gather the top edge and pull closed.

Gnome Face, Make 2

1. With Yarn E, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work St st.
3. BO.

Sew the face patch to the upper front of each body. Keep it centered below the hat line.

Gnome Beard, Make 2

1. With Yarn B, CO 10 sts.
2. Rows 1-5: Work St st.
3. Row 6: K2tog, K6, ssk. 8 sts.
4. Row 7: Purl.
5. Row 8: K2tog, K4, ssk. 6 sts.
6. BO.

Sew the beard over the lower half of the face. Brush the white yarn gently with a needle tip to make it look fuzzy.

Pointed Gnome Hat, Make 1 Green and 1 Red

1. With Yarn C for the green hat or Yarn K for the red hat, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-6: Work St st.
3. Row 7: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
4. Row 8: Purl.
5. Row 9: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
6. Row 10: Purl.
7. Row 11: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
8. Row 12: Purl.
9. Row 13: K1, k2tog, K2, ssk, K1. 6 sts.
10. Row 14: Purl.
11. Row 15: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
12. Row 16: Purl.
13. Row 17: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
14. BO.

Sew each hat into a cone and attach it above the face. Let the point lean slightly to one side for a handmade garden gnome look.

Gnome Shoes, Make 4

1. With Yarn D, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1-3: Work St st.
3. BO.

Fold each shoe in half and tack it to the bottom front of a gnome body. Use black yarn to add one tiny dot eye on each side of the nose area.

Optional Tiny Watering Can

The image includes a small knitted watering can near the gnomes. This accessory is optional but adds a charming garden detail. Make it in pale blue-gray or lavender yarn.

Can Body

1. With pale blue-gray DK yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1-10: Work St st.
3. BO.

Sew the short edges together to make a small tube. Gather the bottom edge and pull closed. Stuff lightly. Gather the top edge partway, leaving a small opening effect.

Can Handle

1. CO 4 sts.
2. Work garter stitch for 14 rows.
3. BO.

Sew the handle in a curved shape to one side of the can.

Can Spout

1. CO 5 sts.
2. Work garter stitch for 7 rows.
3. BO.

Roll the piece into a narrow cone and sew it to the opposite side of the can. Add a small knitted knob on top using one French knot or a 3-stitch embroidered bump.

Assembly Order

Follow the assembly order carefully. The hound depends on correct layering, especially around the head, sweater, and accessories.

1. Sew and stuff the body. Shape it into a seated pear form.
2. Sew and stuff the head. Keep the front smooth.
3. Attach the muzzle to the head and embroider the nose and mouth.
4. Place and secure the eyes on the brown side patches.
5. Attach the ears low and floppy on both sides of the head.
6. Sew the head to the body, tilting it slightly forward.
7. Attach the arms to the upper sides of the body.
8. Attach the legs to the lower front body in a seated position.
9. Wrap and sew the sweater around the body.
10. Add the neckband, waistband, cuffs, and front cottage panel.
11. Sew the slippers to the feet and add bows.
12. Place the crossbody strap over the shoulder and secure the pouch at the hip.
13. Sew the bee applique to the pouch.
14. Add the berry crown across the top of the head.
15. Make the beret and place it beside the finished dog.
16. Make the two gnomes and optional watering can for the background display.

Detailed Embroidery Placement

Small embroidery makes this design look close to the image. Keep each stitch short and neat. Use one strand of DK yarn or split the yarn if the stitches look too bulky.

• Sweater flowers: place 8 to 12 tiny flowers across the front panel and lower sweater.
• Flower size: each flower uses four or five straight stitches, each about 1 stitch wide.
• Flower centers: use one yellow stitch or French knot.
• Stems: use one or two green straight stitches under each flower.
• Paw claws: use three black vertical stitches on each white paw.
• Eye highlights: use one tiny white stitch on each black eye.
• Ear shading: optional, add two darker brown duplicate stitches near the lower inner ear.
• Beret flowers: place flowers in a soft ring around the cream section.

Shaping the Basset Hound Expression

The expression should look gentle and slightly sleepy. After the head is stuffed, squeeze the sides lightly to round the cheeks. The muzzle should project forward, while the nose points slightly downward.

If the eyes look too wide apart, use a hidden strand of yarn from one eye to the other through the head. Pull gently to indent the eyes. Do not pull too tightly; the face should stay soft and friendly.

The ears should frame the face. Sew each ear top flat against the head, then let the rest hang naturally. The lower ear tips should reach the upper arm or sweater side.

Fitting the Outfit

The outfit should look snug but not stretched. If your dog body is slightly larger, add two extra rows to the sweater body before binding off. If it is smaller, overlap the sweater seam slightly at the back.

• The sweater hem should sit just above the hips.
• The neckband should touch the base of the head without covering the muzzle.
• The front panel should sit centered on the chest and belly.
• The pants should look like soft knitted trousers, not separate tubes.
• The cuffs should cover the color change between the olive leg and white foot.

Creating the Cottagecore Look

Use soft, muted colors rather than bright tones. Olive green, ivory, chestnut brown, dusty rose, burgundy, tan, and muted purple help the project match the gentle garden mood of the image.

For a more rustic finish, leave the yarn texture visible. Avoid pressing the knitted pieces completely flat. The slight fuzziness and soft unevenness help the dog look handmade and cozy.

• Add extra tiny flowers to the sweater if desired.
• Keep accessories small so they do not overwhelm the face.
• Place the beret beside the hound instead of sewing it to the head.
• Arrange the gnomes behind or beside the dog for display.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check that the dog sits securely before adding the final details. If it leans backward, add a little stuffing to the lower belly. If it tips forward, flatten the base gently and adjust the leg angle.

• Secure all sewn-on accessories with at least three anchor stitches.
• Hide yarn tails inside the body using a tapestry needle.
• Trim only loose fibers, not structural yarn ends.
• Make sure the nose is centered at the lower muzzle.
• Make sure the ears hang evenly on both sides.
• Add final cheek shaping by gently pressing the muzzle and sides of the head with your hands.

Care Notes

This knitted basset hound is best used as a decorative handmade item. Because it includes small sewn details, gnomes, berries, and accessories, it is not intended for babies or pets.

• Spot clean with a cool damp cloth.
• Do not machine wash if using cardboard in the base.
• Do not wring or twist the finished toy.
• Let it air dry flat on a towel.
• Reshape the ears, muzzle, and beret while damp if needed.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is large, rounded, and slightly tilted forward.
• The white muzzle is long, oval, and centered.
• The brown ears are long, flat, and droop past the shoulders.
• The olive sweater has ribbing and a cottage flower panel.
• The olive pants cover the seated legs neatly.
• The white feet show black claw lines.
• The tan slippers have dusty rose bows.
• The crossbody pouch has a bee applique.
• The flower and berry crown sits near the top of the head.
• The beret has a pom-pom and embroidered flowers.
• The two gnomes have pointed hats, white beards, and tiny shoes.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished hound away from direct sunlight to keep the olive, rose, and brown yarn colors from fading. If dust gathers on the surface, use a soft dry brush and move gently with the direction of the stitches.

For long-term storage, wrap the dog loosely in acid-free tissue or clean cotton fabric. Do not compress the ears, muzzle, crown berries, or pom-pom. Keep the gnomes and beret in the same box so the full cottagecore display stays together.

• Refresh the pom-pom by rolling it lightly between your palms.
• Lift flattened ears by smoothing them from top to tip.
• Check the pouch strap occasionally and tighten loose stitches.
• Keep away from moisture, strong perfume, and rough handling.