Knitting Tutorial: Realistic White Tiger Cub – Free Knitting Pattern

This realistic white tiger cub is knitted with a soft cream-white body, bold black tiger striping, rounded cub ears, glossy black safety eyes, a pale pink embroidered nose, shaped muzzle cheeks, curved paws, and a long ringed tail. The finished toy has a small, lifelike cub form with a large rounded head, slim body, dangling front legs, bent back legs, and carefully placed stripes that match the natural tiger-cub look in the image.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written for a knitted realistic white tiger cub worked mainly in the round. The design uses a firm stockinette fabric so the stuffing stays smooth and the surface can hold embroidered black tiger markings clearly.

The cub in the image has a large head compared with the body, a slightly long muzzle, round cheeks, small folded ears, slim forelegs, thicker hind legs, and a narrow tail with black rings. The stripes are added with duplicate stitch and embroidery after knitting so they can be placed with better control.

• Skill level: Intermediate beginner to intermediate.
• Finished size: About 10 in / 25 cm from nose to back paw, not including the full tail length.
• Construction: Head, body, limbs, ears, muzzle shaping, tail, and facial details are worked separately and sewn together.
• Main texture: Smooth stockinette knit fabric with embroidered tiger markings.
• Style goal: A realistic white tiger cub with soft rounded shaping and bold hand-stitched black stripes.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in warm white or ivory, about 150 yd / 137 m.
• Small amount of black worsted weight yarn or black embroidery yarn for stripes, paw lines, mouth, and eye details.
• Small amount of pale pink yarn or embroidery floss for the nose.
• Small amount of light gray yarn, optional, for subtle muzzle shading.
• US 3 / 3.25 mm double-pointed needles, or size needed for a tight toy fabric.
• US 3 / 3.25 mm circular needle for magic loop, optional.
• Two 9 mm glossy black safety eyes.
• Polyester fiberfill.
• Tapestry needle.
• Locking stitch markers.
• Black sewing thread, optional, for securing eye position.
• Small amount of plastic pellets in a sealed fabric pouch, optional, for gentle weight in the body.
• Scissors and pins for assembly.

Gauge

Gauge is important for a smooth realistic cub. The knitted fabric should be dense enough that stuffing does not show through. Use smaller needles than normally recommended for your yarn.

• Gauge: 24 stitches and 34 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette worked in the round.
• Fabric check: Stretch the swatch lightly. If gaps appear, go down one needle size.
• Stripe check: Duplicate stitch should sit neatly on top of the knitted V stitches without sinking deeply into the fabric.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• k: knit.
• p: purl.
• st / sts: stitch / stitches.
• rnd / rnds: round / rounds.
• kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch, 1 stitch increased.
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together, 1 stitch decreased.
• ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit slipped stitches together through back loops.
• M1L: make 1 left increase.
• M1R: make 1 right increase.
• W&T: wrap and turn for short rows.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.

Important Notes Before You Start

Work the white tiger cub firmly. Stuff each piece gradually and shape it with your fingers as you go. The head must remain rounded, but the muzzle should project forward slightly so the cub has the soft realistic face shown in the image.

The black markings are not random. Place them in curved clusters around the forehead, cheeks, shoulders, legs, and tail. Keep the stripes thinner near the face and slightly thicker on the body and tail.

• Use white as the main yarn for every knitted piece unless a black stripe section is specifically stated.
• For the cleanest look, add most black stripes after knitting using duplicate stitch, backstitch, and small satin stitches.
• Do not overstuff the front legs; they should hang naturally and look slimmer than the hind legs.
• The head should be larger than the body by proportion, creating a young tiger cub appearance.
• The nose is embroidered in pale pink as a rounded triangle with a soft horizontal top edge.

Head

The head is knitted from the nose area backward in the round. It is shaped with increases for the muzzle and cheeks, then widened for the forehead and skull. The forehead should appear high and rounded, while the muzzle remains slightly tapered.

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Head Base

1. With white yarn, CO 8 sts. Divide onto double-pointed needles and join in the round, being careful not to twist.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts. 8 sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k1, kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k4. 28 sts.
8. Rnd 7: k all sts.
9. Rnd 8: k6, kfb, k6, kfb, k6, kfb, k7. 31 sts.
10. Rnd 9: k all sts.
11. Rnd 10: k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k7, kfb, k5, kfb, k5. 35 sts.
12. Rnd 11: k all sts.
13. Rnd 12: k7, M1R, k7, M1L, k7, M1R, k7, M1L, k7. 39 sts.
14. Rnd 13: k all sts.
15. Rnd 14: k8, kfb, k8, kfb, k6, kfb, k8, kfb, k5. 43 sts.
16. Rnd 15: k all sts.
17. Rnd 16: k9, kfb, k9, kfb, k7, kfb, k9, kfb, k6. 47 sts.
18. Rnd 17: k all sts.
19. Rnd 18: k10, kfb, k10, kfb, k7, kfb, k10, kfb, k6. 51 sts.
20. Rnds 19-24: k all sts for 6 rounds.

Cheek and Forehead Shaping

The cub in the image has full rounded cheeks beside the muzzle. These short rows push the cheek area outward without making the nose too wide.

1. Place a marker at the center front of the face. The first 18 sts around the marker form the front muzzle and cheek area.
2. Short Row 1: k18, W&T.
3. Short Row 2: p18, W&T.
4. Short Row 3: k21, W&T.
5. Short Row 4: p21, W&T.
6. Short Row 5: k24, W&T.
7. Short Row 6: p24, W&T.
8. Next rnd: k all sts, knitting wraps together with their wrapped stitches. 51 sts.
9. Rnd 25: k all sts.
10. Rnd 26: k8, k2tog, k9, ssk, k13, k2tog, k9, ssk, k2. 47 sts.
11. Rnd 27: k all sts.
12. Rnd 28: k7, k2tog, k8, ssk, k11, k2tog, k8, ssk, k1. 43 sts.
13. Rnd 29: k all sts.
14. Rnd 30: k6, k2tog, k7, ssk, k9, k2tog, k7, ssk, k1. 39 sts.
15. Rnd 31: k all sts.
16. Rnd 32: k4, k2tog around to last 3 sts, k3. 33 sts.

Insert the safety eyes before closing the head. Place them between Rnds 14 and 15 from the nose start, about 10 sts apart. The eyes should sit slightly forward and low, not high on the forehead.

1. Rnd 33: k all sts.
2. Rnd 34: k3, k2tog around to last 3 sts, k3. 27 sts.
3. Begin stuffing the head firmly. Push stuffing into the cheeks first, then fill the forehead and back of the skull.
4. Rnd 35: k2, k2tog around to last 3 sts, k3. 21 sts.
5. Rnd 36: k1, k2tog around. 14 sts.
6. Rnd 37: k2tog around. 7 sts.
7. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining sts, pull closed, and secure.

Muzzle Overlay

The muzzle overlay gives the tiger cub its soft projecting snout. It should cover the front lower portion of the head and sit below the eyes. The nose embroidery will be placed on the front center of this piece.

1. With white yarn, CO 8 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1. 10 sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
6. Row 5: p all sts.
7. Row 6: k2, kfb, k6, kfb, k2. 14 sts.
8. Rows 7-9: Work in stockinette, purling WS rows and knitting RS rows.
9. Row 10: k2, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 12 sts.
10. Row 11: p all sts.
11. Row 12: k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
12. Row 13: p all sts.
13. Row 14: k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
14. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Lightly stuff behind the muzzle overlay before sewing. Pin the top edge just below the eyes and the bottom edge at the lower front of the head. Sew around the edge with small invisible stitches, leaving a soft raised snout.

Body

The body is longer and narrower than the head. In the image, the cub is being held upright, so the body hangs down softly. Shape the shoulders slightly narrower and the belly fuller.

1. With white yarn, CO 12 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts. 12 sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 24 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k3, kfb around. 30 sts.
6. Rnd 5: k all sts.
7. Rnd 6: k4, kfb around. 36 sts.
8. Rnds 7-10: k all sts.
9. Rnd 11: k10, M1R, k16, M1L, k10. 38 sts.
10. Rnds 12-17: k all sts.
11. Rnd 18: k8, k2tog, k18, ssk, k8. 36 sts.
12. Rnd 19: k all sts.
13. Rnd 20: k7, k2tog, k18, ssk, k7. 34 sts.
14. Rnd 21: k all sts.
15. Rnd 22: k6, k2tog, k18, ssk, k6. 32 sts.
16. Rnd 23: k all sts.
17. Rnd 24: k6, k2tog around. 28 sts.
18. Rnds 25-26: k all sts.
19. Rnd 27: k5, k2tog around. 24 sts.
20. Stuff the body firmly at the belly, lightly at the shoulder opening.
21. Rnd 28: k4, k2tog around. 20 sts.
22. Rnd 29: k all sts.
23. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head.

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Front Legs

The front legs are slim and slightly dangling. Each paw is rounded at the bottom and has black claw lines embroidered after assembly. Make two identical front legs.

Front Paw and Leg

1. With white yarn, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts. 8 sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k4, kfb, k4, kfb, k6. 18 sts.
6. Rnds 5-7: k all sts.
7. Rnd 8: k3, k2tog, k4, ssk, k7. 16 sts.
8. Rnd 9: k all sts.
9. Rnd 10: k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, k6. 14 sts.
10. Rnds 11-23: k all sts.
11. Rnd 24: k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k5. 12 sts.
12. Rnds 25-27: k all sts.
13. Stuff the paw firmly and the upper leg lightly.
14. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Front Leg Stripe Placement

• Work three short black curved lines across the paw top, each about 3 knitted sts wide.
• Place one black ring around the wrist area at Rnds 10-11.
• Add one broken black side stripe on the outer upper leg between Rnds 16-20.
• Keep the inner side mostly white so the front of the cub remains clean and realistic.

Hind Legs

The hind legs are thicker than the front legs and angle outward from the lower body. The feet are rounded and slightly flattened so the cub can rest naturally when placed on a surface.

Make Two Hind Legs

1. With white yarn, CO 10 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1: k all sts. 10 sts.
3. Rnd 2: kfb in every st around. 20 sts.
4. Rnd 3: k all sts.
5. Rnd 4: k5, kfb, k5, kfb, k8. 22 sts.
6. Rnds 5-8: k all sts.
7. Rnd 9: k4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k8. 20 sts.
8. Rnd 10: k all sts.
9. Rnd 11: k3, k2tog, k6, ssk, k7. 18 sts.
10. Rnds 12-16: k all sts.
11. Rnd 17: k4, kfb, k8, kfb, k4. 20 sts.
12. Rnds 18-22: k all sts.
13. Rnd 23: k4, k2tog, k8, ssk, k4. 18 sts.
14. Rnd 24: k all sts.
15. Rnd 25: k3, k2tog, k8, ssk, k3. 16 sts.
16. Stuff the foot firmly. Stuff the thigh moderately so it can bend slightly.
17. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Hind Leg Stripe Placement

• Add two black toe lines on the front of each foot, each about 4 sts long.
• Add one black curved stripe around the ankle area.
• Add two broken tiger stripes on the outside thigh, one near the middle and one closer to the body.
• Do not make the stripes perfectly even; natural-looking variation is important.

Tail

The tail is long, narrow, and ringed with black bands. In the image, the tail hangs downward behind the body and narrows slightly toward the black-tipped end.

1. With black yarn, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
2. Rnds 1-4: k all sts in black for the tail tip.
3. Switch to white yarn.
4. Rnds 5-8: k all sts in white.
5. Switch to black yarn.
6. Rnds 9-10: k all sts in black.
7. Switch to white yarn.
8. Rnds 11-15: k all sts in white.
9. Switch to black yarn.
10. Rnds 16-17: k all sts in black.
11. Switch to white yarn.
12. Rnds 18-23: k all sts in white.
13. Switch to black yarn.
14. Rnds 24-25: k all sts in black.
15. Switch to white yarn.
16. Rnds 26-32: k all sts in white.
17. Switch to black yarn.
18. Rnds 33-34: k all sts in black.
19. Switch to white yarn.
20. Rnds 35-42: k all sts in white.
21. Stuff lightly as you work. The tail should bend easily, not feel rigid.
22. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

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Ears

The ears are small, rounded, and set low on the upper sides of the head. The image shows folded cub ears rather than tall pointed cat ears. Make two.

1. With white yarn, CO 10 sts and work flat.
2. Row 1: p all sts.
3. Row 2: k all sts.
4. Row 3: p all sts.
5. Row 4: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1. 12 sts.
6. Rows 5-7: Work in stockinette.
7. Row 8: k1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1. 10 sts.
8. Row 9: p all sts.
9. Row 10: k1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1. 8 sts.
10. Row 11: p all sts.
11. Row 12: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1. 6 sts.
12. Row 13: p all sts.
13. Row 14: k1, k2tog, ssk, k1. 4 sts.
14. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Fold each ear slightly at the base. Sew the lower corners together with 2 or 3 stitches to cup the ear. Add a tiny black edge stitch on the outer top curve if desired.

Face Details

The face is the most important part of this realistic white tiger cub. Work slowly and check symmetry often. The embroidered lines should frame the eyes and cheeks without covering too much white fabric.

Pink Nose

1. Thread pale pink yarn or floss onto a tapestry needle.
2. Mark a small triangle at the front center of the muzzle overlay, about 6 sts wide at the top and 4 rows tall.
3. Work horizontal satin stitches from the top edge downward until the triangle is filled.
4. Keep the top of the nose softly rounded, not sharply pointed.
5. Add 2 extra horizontal stitches across the top edge to make the nose slightly raised.

Mouth and Chin

1. With black yarn, make one tiny vertical stitch from the bottom point of the nose downward for 2 rows.
2. Make a small curved stitch to the left for the mouth.
3. Make a matching small curved stitch to the right.
4. Add 3 tiny black dots on each side of the muzzle using small French knots or single straight stitches.
5. Keep the mouth delicate. The cub should look soft and young, not cartoonish.

Eye Framing

• Using black yarn, stitch a short curved line above each eye, about 5 sts long.
• Add a lower cheek line starting below the outer eye and curving toward the muzzle.
• Add one short black mark at the inner corner of each eye to create the tiger-cub expression.
• Pull the yarn gently so the eye area sinks only slightly into the face.

Forehead Stripe Map

The forehead has several black stripes arranged like branching marks. These lines give the white tiger its identity. Use duplicate stitch for thicker sections and backstitch for thin curves.

• Center forehead stripe: Start 3 rows above the eye line. Work a black broken vertical stripe about 9 rows long, tapering near the nose bridge.
• Left upper stripe: Add a curved stripe from the top center toward the left ear, about 8 sts long.
• Right upper stripe: Mirror the left upper stripe toward the right ear.
• Left brow stripe: Add a shorter curved stripe above the left eye, about 6 sts long.
• Right brow stripe: Mirror above the right eye.
• Small forehead marks: Add 3 short broken black stitches between the upper stripes, each 2-3 sts wide.

Do not make the forehead stripes perfectly straight. Slight curves and uneven breaks make the cub look more realistic. Keep the central white nose bridge visible.

Cheek Stripe Map

The cheek stripes are bold and fan outward from the muzzle area. In the image, these stripes are especially visible on both sides of the face and frame the white muzzle.

• On each cheek, stitch one long curved black stripe starting under the eye and moving outward toward the side of the head.
• Below that, add one shorter stripe angled downward toward the lower cheek.
• Add a third broken stripe near the jawline, about 5 sts long.
• Keep a clean white area around the pink nose and mouth.
• Use a split stitch or duplicate stitch for the thickest cheek stripe.

Body Stripe Map

The body has broken black tiger stripes rather than complete rings. Place the stripes after the body is sewn to the head so you can see the visible front, sides, and back clearly.

• Shoulder stripes: Add two black curved stripes on each shoulder, each about 7-9 sts long.
• Back stripes: Add three irregular black marks down the back, spaced about 5 rounds apart.
• Side stripes: Add two longer diagonal stripes on each side of the belly, each about 10-12 sts long.
• Lower belly marks: Add two small broken black marks near the lower body.
• Chest: Keep the center chest mostly white with only one small black mark near the side.

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Assembly

Take time with assembly because the realistic shape depends on the angle of each piece. Pin all parts before sewing. View the cub from the front, side, and top before making permanent stitches.

Attach Head to Body

1. Position the body opening under the back lower part of the head.
2. Tilt the head slightly forward so the cub appears to be looking outward.
3. Sew the body to the head using the long body yarn tail.
4. Work around the neck twice for strength.
5. Add extra stuffing into the neck before fully closing the seam.
6. Shape the neck gently with your fingers so the transition is smooth but still visible.

Attach Front Legs

1. Place the front legs high on the body, just below the neck seam.
2. Angle each front leg downward and slightly forward.
3. Sew the top 6 rounds of each leg securely to the shoulder area.
4. Leave the lower part of each leg free so it hangs naturally.
5. Check that both paws face forward before fastening off.

Attach Hind Legs

1. Place the hind legs on the lower sides of the body.
2. Angle the thighs outward slightly, with the feet pointing forward and down.
3. Sew the upper thigh firmly to the body across 8-10 sts.
4. Use extra stitches at the back hip area so the legs do not twist.
5. Flatten the bottom of each foot gently after sewing.

Attach Tail

1. Place the tail at the lower back center of the body.
2. Angle it downward so it hangs behind the cub.
3. Sew around the tail base twice.
4. Add a few hidden anchor stitches 1 round above the base for extra strength.
5. Shape the tail by gently bending it with your hands.

Attach Ears

1. Place each ear on the upper side of the head, slightly behind the eye line.
2. Set the ears low and outward, not tall on top of the head.
3. Curve each ear downward slightly to create a cub-like folded look.
4. Sew across the folded base with small firm stitches.
5. Add one small black stitch near the outer edge if the ear needs more definition.

Optional Face Sculpting

Face sculpting helps the eyes look glossy and deep, similar to the cub in the image. Use white yarn or strong sewing thread so the shaping is hidden.

1. Insert a long needle at the back of the head and bring it out beside the left eye.
2. Take a tiny stitch beside the eye and return to the back of the head.
3. Pull gently until the eye sits slightly into the face.
4. Repeat for the right eye with the same tension.
5. Knot securely at the back of the head and hide the yarn tail inside.

Whisker Dot and Nose Bridge Details

The image shows a soft white muzzle with tiny black dot markings and a clean pale nose bridge. These small details make the tiger cub look more realistic without adding clutter.

• Add 3 tiny black dots on the left side of the muzzle.
• Add 3 matching dots on the right side of the muzzle.
• Place the dots in a loose triangle, not a straight row.
• Add two tiny black stitches along the lower jaw if you want extra realism.
• Do not add long whiskers unless desired, because the image focuses on stitched muzzle dots.

Knitted Texture Notes

The knitted stitches should remain visible and neat. The tiger cub in the image has a handmade stockinette texture with clear vertical knit columns. Avoid brushing the yarn too heavily, because that can hide the stitch definition.

• Use consistent tension throughout all pieces.
• Keep increases and decreases evenly distributed to avoid lumpy shaping.
• Stuff gradually rather than all at once.
• Use smaller needles for a firmer fabric.
• When adding black embroidery, do not pull so tightly that the white fabric puckers.

Detailed Stripe Embroidery Method

Most black markings can be made with duplicate stitch because it follows the knitted V shape. For curved stripes, use a combination of duplicate stitch and short backstitches. This gives the face and body the natural broken stripe effect.

1. Thread black yarn onto a tapestry needle.
2. Start from the underside or back of the piece so the knot is hidden.
3. For duplicate stitch, follow one white V stitch at a time with black yarn.
4. For a thicker stripe, work a second duplicate-stitch row beside the first.
5. For a curved line, use short backstitches across 1-2 knitted stitches at a time.
6. End each stripe by weaving the black yarn into the inside or back of the fabric.
7. Trim tails only after checking the final stripe balance.

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Shaping the Realistic Cub Form

The cub should not look stiff. After assembly, gently squeeze the body lengthwise so it becomes slightly oval. Shape the head so the forehead is round, the cheeks are full, and the muzzle projects forward.

For the front legs, roll each leg between your fingers to make it slim. For the back legs, press the feet lightly so they look broader and more paw-like. The tail should be softly curved rather than perfectly straight.

• Head: large, rounded, and slightly forward-facing.
• Muzzle: raised, soft, and centered below the eyes.
• Body: narrow at the shoulders, fuller through the belly.
• Front legs: slim and hanging downward.
• Hind legs: thicker, angled outward, with rounded paws.
• Tail: long, narrow, ringed, and flexible.

Finishing the Paws

The paws are simple but very important. The image shows small rounded feet with black toe details. Add the toe marks after the legs are attached, so they face the correct direction.

1. Thread black yarn onto a tapestry needle.
2. On each front paw, make three short vertical or slightly curved toe marks.
3. Each toe mark should be about 2-3 rows long.
4. On each hind paw, make two or three slightly longer toe marks.
5. Add one small black side mark if the paw needs more tiger striping.
6. Weave ends inside the paw and trim carefully.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the cub from every angle before completing the final knots. The eyes should be even, the muzzle should sit centered, and the pink nose should point forward. The forehead stripes should frame the face without covering the white bridge.

• Secure all seams with firm hidden stitches.
• Add extra stuffing to the neck if the head tilts too far downward.
• Adjust the ears so they sit low and rounded.
• Check that the front legs hang evenly.
• Make sure the tail is attached at the lower back center.
• Trim any loose yarn fibers around the eyes and nose.

Care Notes

This knitted white tiger cub is a handmade soft toy and should be handled gently. Because it uses safety eyes and embroidered details, it is best as a display piece or a keepsake for older children and adults.

• Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if safety eyes or weighted pellets are used.
• Do not wring or twist the toy.
• Let the cub air dry completely before storing.
• Keep away from pets that may chew the embroidered details.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is larger than the body and tilted slightly forward.
• The muzzle is raised and centered.
• The pink nose is smooth, rounded, and softly triangular.
• The eyes are glossy, even, and slightly inset.
• The ears are small, rounded, and placed low on the head.
• The front legs are slim and hang downward.
• The hind legs are fuller and angled outward.
• The tail has black rings and a black tip.
• The cheek stripes fan outward naturally.
• The body stripes are broken and uneven, not perfectly symmetrical.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the realistic white tiger look, store the toy away from direct sunlight. Strong sunlight may fade the black stripes and yellow the white yarn over time. A clean shelf, soft fabric bag, or covered display box is ideal.

• Dust gently with a soft dry cloth or clean makeup brush.
• For small stains, dab only the stained area with cool water.
• Avoid soaking the toy, especially around the face and safety eyes.
• Reshape the head, paws, and tail while damp if spot cleaning is needed.
• Allow the toy to dry naturally in a well-ventilated place.
• Do not use bleach, strong detergent, or high heat.

When storing for a long time, wrap the cub loosely in acid-free tissue or clean cotton fabric. Do not compress the head or muzzle, because pressure can flatten the facial shaping. Keep the tail curved naturally so it does not develop a sharp bend.