Knitting Tutorial: Woodland Basset Hound – Free Knitting Pattern

This woodland basset hound knitting pattern creates a soft seated puppy with long brown ears, a white muzzle and blaze, glossy safety eyes, a black nose, striped forest clothing, a matching ribbed hat, a green shoulder bag with a red mushroom patch, two knitted acorns, and a white daisy with leaves on the head.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written for a detailed knitted amigurumi-style woodland basset hound. The finished toy is designed to sit upright, with a large rounded head, drooping oval ears, short front legs, rounded white paws, a compact body, and removable-looking accessories that are sewn firmly in place.

The puppy in the image has a warm woodland color palette: chestnut brown, soft cream white, deep forest green, rusty orange, beige, yellow, and small red mushroom accents. The fabric should be firm enough to hold shape but soft enough to look cuddly.

Most body pieces are knitted flat and seamed, because flat knitting makes the shaping easier for beginners. Small details such as the daisy, mushroom patch, bag flap, acorns, and strap are also knitted flat, then sewn into place with careful angles.

Finished Size

• Finished height: about 11.5 in / 29 cm from seated bottom to top of head flower.
• Head width: about 5.5 in / 14 cm across the cheeks after stuffing.
• Ear length: about 6.25 in / 16 cm from top attachment to rounded tip.
• Body height: about 5 in / 13 cm before head is attached.
• Bag size: about 3.25 in / 8 cm wide and 2.5 in / 6.5 cm tall.
• Hat size: about 4.5 in / 11.5 cm wide and 3 in / 7.5 cm tall when laid flat.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. You should know how to knit, purl, increase, decrease, change colors, seam pieces, pick up stitches, and embroider small details. The shaping is detailed, but each section is written stitch by stitch.

Materials

• Worsted weight yarn in chestnut brown for ears, eye patches, hat crown, stripes, acorn caps, and sole edging.
• Worsted weight yarn in warm white or cream for face blaze, muzzle, body, paws, and clothing stripes.
• Worsted weight yarn in forest green for cardigan trim, scarf, bag, strap, hat brim, shoe soles, leaves, and stripes.
• Worsted weight yarn in rusty orange for stripes and small clothing details.
• Small amount of beige yarn for acorns and daisy center.
• Small amount of white yarn for daisy petals.
• Small amount of red yarn for mushroom cap.
• Small amount of off-white yarn for mushroom stem.
• US size 3 / 3.25 mm knitting needles for firm toy fabric.
• US size 2 / 2.75 mm knitting needles for small accessories.
• Two 16 mm glossy brown safety eyes or black safety eyes with brown felt backing.
• One 24 mm black safety nose or a black embroidered nose over felt.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Four tiny wooden buttons, about 8 mm wide.
• Black embroidery floss for mouth line.
• White sewing thread for daisy and mushroom dots.
• Optional: plastic pellets in a sealed fabric pouch for a weighted seated base.

Gauge

Gauge: 22 stitches and 32 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch using US size 3 needles. For amigurumi knitting, exact gauge is less important than firm fabric. Your stuffing should not show through the stitches.

If your stitches are loose, go down one needle size. If your fabric feels stiff and hard to shape, go up one needle size, but keep the fabric tight enough to hold the rounded head, paws, and ears.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on.
• BO: bind off.
• K: knit.
• P: purl.
• St / sts: stitch / stitches.
• RS: right side.
• WS: wrong side.
• K2tog: knit 2 stitches together.
• P2tog: purl 2 stitches together.
• Kfb: knit into front and back of the same stitch.
• SSK: slip, slip, knit the slipped stitches together.
• St st: stockinette stitch, knit RS rows and purl WS rows.
• G st: garter stitch, knit every row.
• Mattress seam: invisible vertical seam used for joining knitted edges.

Important Construction Notes

The puppy is built from shaped pieces. The body, head, muzzle, ears, legs, paws, tail, clothing, hat, bag, acorns, and flower are knitted separately. Sew the head to the body at a slight forward angle so the face looks gentle and attentive.

The long ears are the most important basset hound feature. They should hang from the upper side of the head, beginning level with the eye tops and falling past the shoulders. Do not place them too high, or the puppy will look like another dog breed.

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The face has a wide white center blaze that runs from the forehead down the nose bridge into the rounded muzzle. Brown eye patches sit on both sides of the blaze. Keep the white stripe centered while sewing so the expression matches the image.

Color Placement Guide

• Head base: chestnut brown sides with a vertical white blaze on the front.
• Muzzle: large rounded cream-white double-lobed muzzle under the black nose.
• Ears: chestnut brown, long, flat-oval, lightly stuffed only near the top.
• Body: cream-white base mostly covered by a striped cardigan and scarf.
• Cardigan: forest green edges with cream, rusty orange, chestnut, and green stripes.
• Paws: white rounded fronts with green and orange sole edging.
• Hat: green ribbed brim, rusty orange and white stripe bands, brown rounded crown.
• Bag: green rectangular knit bag with a red mushroom patch on the right front.
• Small props: two acorns in brown and beige beside the bag.
• Head flower: white daisy, yellow center, two green leaves.

Body

Use cream-white yarn and US size 3 needles. Knit the body flat from the bottom upward. The body should be oval and slightly pear-shaped, wider at the seated base and narrower at the neck.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K14, kfb, K1. 20 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K2, kfb, K16, kfb, K2. 24 sts.
9. Row 8: P all sts.
10. Row 9: K2, kfb, K18, kfb, K2. 26 sts.
11. Rows 10 to 18: Work in stockinette stitch, beginning with a purl row.
12. Row 19: K4, kfb, K16, kfb, K4. 28 sts.
13. Rows 20 to 30: Work in stockinette stitch.
14. Row 31: K4, k2tog, K16, ssk, K4. 26 sts.
15. Row 32: P all sts.
16. Row 33: K3, k2tog, K16, ssk, K3. 24 sts.
17. Row 34: P all sts.
18. Row 35: K3, k2tog, K14, ssk, K3. 22 sts.
19. Row 36: P all sts.
20. Row 37: K2, k2tog, K14, ssk, K2. 20 sts.
21. Row 38: P all sts.
22. Row 39: K2, k2tog, K12, ssk, K2. 18 sts.
23. Row 40: P all sts.
24. BO, leaving a 16 in / 40 cm tail for seaming.

Make a second body panel the same way. Place both panels with right sides together. Seam around the sides and bottom with mattress stitch, leaving the top neck edge open. Turn right side out and stuff firmly.

Shape the bottom by pressing the stuffed base flat against the table. The seated base should measure about 3.75 in / 9.5 cm wide. Add extra stuffing near the lower back so the puppy sits upright without leaning.

White Belly Insert

The body front in the image shows a soft cream-white belly under the open green cardigan. This insert gives the front a smooth oval center.

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 18: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Row 19: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
8. Row 20: P all sts.
9. BO loosely.

Sew the belly insert vertically to the center front of the body. Place the lower edge 0.5 in / 1.2 cm above the seated base. The top should sit just below the scarf line.

Head

The head is large, rounded, and slightly taller than it is wide. Use chestnut brown for the back and sides, with a cream-white center blaze panel sewn onto the front.

Back and Side Head Panels

1. Using chestnut brown yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K16, kfb, K1. 22 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K2, kfb, K16, kfb, K2. 24 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K2, kfb, K18, kfb, K2. 26 sts.
9. Row 8: P all sts.
10. Row 9: K3, kfb, K18, kfb, K3. 28 sts.
11. Rows 10 to 30: Work in stockinette stitch.
12. Row 31: K3, k2tog, K18, ssk, K3. 26 sts.
13. Row 32: P all sts.
14. Row 33: K2, k2tog, K18, ssk, K2. 24 sts.
15. Row 34: P all sts.
16. Row 35: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
17. Row 36: P all sts.
18. Row 37: K1, k2tog, K16, ssk, K1. 20 sts.
19. Row 38: P all sts.
20. BO, leaving a long tail.

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Make two identical brown head panels. Seam around the outer edges from lower left cheek up over the head and down to the lower right cheek. Leave the bottom open for stuffing and neck attachment.

Stuff the head firmly. Add extra stuffing to the forehead and cheeks, but keep the lower front slightly flatter so the muzzle can sit naturally on top of it.

White Center Blaze

The white blaze begins wide at the lower face, narrows slightly between the eyes, then widens softly at the forehead. This is a front applique sewn over the brown head.

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Row 5: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
4. Row 6: P all sts.
5. Rows 7 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Row 13: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
7. Row 14: P all sts.
8. Rows 15 to 24: Work in stockinette stitch on 8 sts.
9. Row 25: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
10. Row 26: P all sts.
11. Row 27: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
12. Row 28: P all sts.
13. Row 29: K2, k2tog, K4, ssk, K2. 10 sts.
14. Row 30: P all sts.
15. BO loosely.

Pin the blaze to the face before sewing. The lower wide end should sit above the muzzle, and the top should reach the crown between the ears. Sew with small cream stitches, keeping the edges smooth.

Brown Eye Patch Appliques

The basset hound has warm brown patches surrounding the eyes on both sides of the white blaze. These patches should be oval and slightly slanted downward at the outer corners.

1. Using chestnut brown yarn and US size 2 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Row 11: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
8. Row 12: P all sts.
9. BO loosely.

Make two patches. Sew one patch to each side of the blaze. Place the inner edge almost touching the white blaze, and tilt the lower outer edge slightly downward for a gentle puppy expression.

Eyes

Place the eyes before closing the lower head opening. The eyes should be large, glossy, and set wide apart. The top of each eye sits just below the midpoint of the head height.

• Insert each safety eye through the center of a brown eye patch.
• Eye spacing should be about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm between inner edges.
• The eyes should sit about 1.25 in / 3.2 cm above the top of the muzzle.
• Add a tiny white yarn highlight stitch at the upper outer side of each eye if desired.

If using embroidered eyes, make satin stitch ovals with dark brown or black yarn. Add a small white highlight afterward. Keep both eyes level before securing all knots inside the head.

Muzzle

The muzzle is a large cream-white double puff shape, with two rounded cheeks under the nose. Knit two side lobes and seam them together to create the soft basset hound mouth area.

Muzzle Lobe

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
7. Rows 6 to 14: Work in stockinette stitch.
8. Row 15: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
9. Row 16: P all sts.
10. Row 17: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
11. Row 18: P all sts.
12. BO, leaving a long tail.

Make two muzzle lobes. Sew the inner edges together for 1.25 in / 3.2 cm, leaving the outer edges rounded. Stuff each lobe lightly so the muzzle is puffy but not oversized.

Sew the joined muzzle to the lower front of the head. The center seam should sit directly under the white blaze. The top edge should tuck just below the nose position, and the lower edge should curve like two soft cheeks.

Nose and Mouth

Use a 24 mm black safety nose or embroider a firm oval nose. The nose should sit centered above the two muzzle lobes, slightly overlapping the upper seam.

• Position the nose about 0.25 in / 6 mm above the center join of the muzzle lobes.
• If embroidering, make a satin stitch oval about 1 in / 2.5 cm wide.
• Add two tiny nostril curves with black embroidery floss.
• Work one straight vertical black stitch from the nose bottom to the muzzle center seam.
• Add a small upside-down Y mouth with two short curved stitches.

Do not make the mouth too large. The image shows a gentle, quiet expression. Keep the mouth line delicate and centered so the puppy looks soft and friendly.

Long Drooping Ears

The ears are long, chestnut brown, rounded at the bottom, and hang along both sides of the face. They are lightly stuffed only near the upper attachment so they remain flat and floppy.

1. Using chestnut brown yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in garter stitch for a firm top edge.
3. Row 5: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
4. Row 6: P all sts.
5. Row 7: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. 16 sts.
6. Row 8: P all sts.
7. Row 9: K1, kfb, K12, kfb, K1. 18 sts.
8. Row 10: P all sts.
9. Rows 11 to 46: Work in stockinette stitch.
10. Row 47: K2, k2tog, K10, ssk, K2. 16 sts.
11. Row 48: P all sts.
12. Row 49: K2, k2tog, K8, ssk, K2. 14 sts.
13. Row 50: P all sts.
14. Row 51: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
15. Row 52: P all sts.
16. Row 53: K1, k2tog, K6, ssk, K1. 10 sts.
17. Row 54: P all sts.
18. Row 55: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
19. Row 56: P all sts.
20. BO, leaving a long tail.

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Make four ear panels. Seam two panels together for each ear, right sides facing, leaving the top edge open. Turn right side out. Add a very small amount of stuffing near the top only.

Attach each ear at the upper side of the head, beginning just above eye level. Angle the top seam diagonally from the side crown toward the cheek. The ears should fall forward slightly and frame the face.

Front Legs

The front legs are short and cylindrical, mostly hidden beneath the striped cardigan sleeves. Knit them in cream-white, then add separate striped sleeve cuffs and rounded paws.

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Rows 3 to 18: Work in stockinette stitch.
5. Row 19: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
6. Row 20: P all sts.
7. BO, leaving a long tail.

Make two legs. Fold each piece lengthwise with right sides together. Seam the long edge and one short end. Turn right side out, stuff lightly, and leave the upper end open for attaching under the body front.

Rounded Front Paws

The paws are white, oval, and visible at the bottom front. They sit inside green-edged shoe-like cuffs with a rusty orange trim line.

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K8, kfb, K1. 14 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Row 13: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
8. Row 14: P all sts.
9. BO.

Make four paw panels. Seam two panels together for each paw, leaving a small opening. Turn, stuff firmly, and close the opening. Sew one paw to the bottom of each front leg.

Green Shoe Edge

1. Using forest green yarn and US size 2 needles, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 3: K all sts.
3. BO loosely.

Make two green strips. Wrap one strip around the side and back of each white paw like a slipper edge. Sew in place. Add one rusty orange running stitch around the lower edge to match the image.

Back Feet

The seated puppy shows rounded white feet at the bottom front. The back feet are larger than the front leg cylinders and help the toy sit steadily.

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K10, kfb, K1. 16 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Rows 5 to 14: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Row 15: K2, k2tog, K8, ssk, K2. 14 sts.
8. Row 16: P all sts.
9. Row 17: K1, k2tog, K8, ssk, K1. 12 sts.
10. Row 18: P all sts.
11. BO.

Make four panels. Seam two panels together for each foot. Stuff firmly at the toe and lightly at the back. Sew the feet to the lower body front, about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm apart.

Tail

The tail in the image is a slim greenish cord trailing toward the right side behind the bag. Knit it as an I-cord so it holds a gentle curve.

1. Using forest green yarn and double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts.
2. K 4, slide stitches back to the other needle end without turning.
3. Repeat the I-cord row until the cord measures 7 in / 18 cm.
4. Cut yarn, thread through all stitches, pull tight, and secure.

Sew one end to the back right side of the puppy body, about 1 in / 2.5 cm above the seated base. Curve it slightly behind the bag so it looks like a thin woodland tail or decorative cord.

Striped Cardigan Body

The cardigan is open at the front, with forest green vertical bands, cream and rusty stripes, and tiny wooden buttons. It should look fitted around the body but not tight.

Cardigan Back Panel

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 24 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Change to rusty orange. Rows 5 to 6: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. Change to cream-white. Rows 7 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
5. Change to forest green. Rows 11 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Change to cream-white. Rows 13 to 18: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 19 to 22: Work in stockinette stitch.
8. Change to cream-white. Rows 23 to 30: Work in stockinette stitch.
9. Row 31: K2, k2tog, K16, ssk, K2. 22 sts.
10. Row 32: P all sts.
11. Row 33: K2, k2tog, K14, ssk, K2. 20 sts.
12. Row 34: P all sts.
13. BO.

Left Cardigan Front

1. Using cream-white yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. Change to rusty orange. Rows 5 to 6: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. Change to cream-white. Rows 7 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
5. Change to forest green. Rows 11 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Change to cream-white. Rows 13 to 18: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 19 to 22: Work in stockinette stitch.
8. Change to cream-white. Rows 23 to 28: Work in stockinette stitch.
9. Row 29: K2tog, K10. 11 sts.
10. Row 30: P all sts.
11. Row 31: K2tog, K9. 10 sts.
12. Row 32: P all sts.
13. BO.

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Right Cardigan Front

1. Work as for the left front, but reverse shaping.
2. At Row 29: K10, ssk. 11 sts.
3. At Row 31: K9, ssk. 10 sts.
4. BO after Row 32.

Seam the cardigan shoulders and sides, leaving openings for the legs. Place the cardigan around the body with the fronts open. Sew the back and side seams lightly to the body so the garment stays in position.

Green Front Bands

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Work in garter stitch for 4.75 in / 12 cm.
3. BO.

Make two bands. Sew one to each front cardigan edge. Add two tiny wooden buttons to the lower right band and two to the lower left cuff area, matching the handmade woodland style in the image.

Striped Sleeves

The sleeves show cream, rusty orange, brown, and green bands. Knit two small rectangles and wrap them around the front legs before sewing the legs to the body.

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts for rib-like cuff texture.
3. Change to rusty orange. Rows 5 to 6: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. Change to cream-white. Rows 7 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
5. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 11 to 14: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Change to cream-white. Rows 15 to 20: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. BO.

Make two sleeves. Wrap each sleeve around the upper part of a front leg. Seam down the back. Sew the legs to the body front so the paws rest flat on the table.

Woodland Scarf

The scarf sits around the neck under the muzzle. It has forest green, rusty orange, cream, and brown stripes. It should be snug but not tight, with a small pointed green tie falling down the front.

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Change to rusty orange. Rows 5 to 8: K all sts.
4. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 9 to 12: K all sts.
5. Change to cream-white. Rows 13 to 18: K all sts.
6. Change to forest green. Rows 19 to 42: K all sts.
7. Change to rusty orange. Rows 43 to 46: K all sts.
8. Change to cream-white. Rows 47 to 52: K all sts.
9. Change to forest green. Rows 53 to 58: K all sts.
10. BO.

Wrap the scarf around the neck after attaching the head. Cross the ends at the front, then sew invisibly under the chin. Let one forest green end point downward toward the cardigan buttons.

Matching Woodland Hat

The hat sits on the table beside the puppy. It has a forest green ribbed brim, cream and rusty-orange stripes, and a rounded chestnut brown crown.

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 36 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work K2, P2 rib across each row.
3. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 9 to 12: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. Change to rusty orange. Rows 13 to 16: Work in stockinette stitch.
5. Change to cream-white. Rows 17 to 20: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Change to forest green. Rows 21 to 24: Work in stockinette stitch.
7. Change to chestnut brown. Rows 25 to 32: Work in stockinette stitch.
8. Row 33: K2, k2tog across to last 4 sts, K4. 28 sts.
9. Row 34: P all sts.
10. Row 35: K1, k2tog across to last 3 sts, K3. 20 sts.
11. Row 36: P all sts.
12. Row 37: K2tog across. 10 sts.
13. Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull tight, and seam the back.

Stuff the hat very lightly near the crown if you want it to stand rounded. The brim should remain flat and ribbed. Place it to the puppy’s left side for display, as shown in the image.

Green Shoulder Bag

The bag is rectangular, forest green, and sits to the puppy’s right. It has a long knitted strap crossing the body and a red mushroom patch on the lower right front.

Bag Front and Back

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 22 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in garter stitch.
3. Rows 5 to 20: Work in stockinette stitch.
4. Rows 21 to 24: Work in garter stitch.
5. BO.

Make two panels. Place wrong sides together and seam the sides and bottom with forest green yarn. Leave the top open. Lightly stuff the bag with a thin piece of folded felt or a small amount of fiberfill so it holds a boxy shape.

Bag Flap

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in garter stitch.
3. Row 9: K2, k2tog, K12, ssk, K2. 18 sts.
4. Row 10: K all sts.
5. BO.

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Sew the flap to the top back edge of the bag. Bring it over the front slightly. Add one tiny wooden button near the lower center if desired.

Bag Strap

1. Using forest green yarn and double-pointed needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work I-cord for 20 in / 51 cm.
3. Cut yarn, thread through stitches, and secure.

Sew one end of the strap to each side of the bag. Place the strap diagonally across the puppy’s chest from the left shoulder to the right side, then secure with a few hidden stitches so it stays exactly positioned.

Mushroom Patch for Bag

The small mushroom patch is red with white dots and an off-white stem. It is sewn on the lower right front of the green bag.

Mushroom Cap

1. Using red yarn and US size 2 needles, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K4, kfb, K1. 10 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K1, k2tog, K4, ssk, K1. 8 sts.
7. BO.

Mushroom Stem

1. Using off-white yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in stockinette stitch.
3. BO.

Sew the stem to the bag first, then overlap the red cap above it. Embroider five tiny white dots on the red cap. Keep the patch small, about 1 in / 2.5 cm tall.

Knitted Acorns

Make two small acorns to sit beside the bag. One should be beige with a brown cap, and the other slightly darker golden beige, matching the woodland accessories in the image.

Acorn Body

1. Using beige yarn and US size 2 needles, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K6, kfb, K1. 12 sts.
5. Rows 4 to 10: Work in stockinette stitch.
6. Row 11: K2tog across. 6 sts.
7. Cut yarn, thread through stitches, pull tight, and seam side.

Acorn Cap

1. Using chestnut brown yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. Row 5: K2tog across. 6 sts.
4. Cut yarn, thread through stitches, pull tight, and seam side.

Stuff the acorn body lightly. Sew the brown cap over the gathered top. Add a tiny 3-stitch brown stem at the crown. Make a second acorn using golden beige yarn for variation.

Daisy Flower for the Head

The daisy sits above the puppy’s right forehead, near the top of one ear. It has white petals, a yellow center, and two green leaves placed behind it.

Daisy Center

1. Using yellow yarn and US size 2 needles, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: K all sts.
3. BO.
4. Roll into a tiny circle and sew closed.

Daisy Petals

1. Using white yarn, CO 4 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: Kfb, K2, kfb. 6 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K2tog, K2, ssk. 4 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. BO.

Make eight petals. Arrange them in a circle behind the yellow center. Sew each petal firmly, overlapping the inner tips slightly so the daisy looks full and rounded.

Leaves

1. Using forest green yarn, CO 5 sts.
2. Row 1: K all sts.
3. Row 2: P all sts.
4. Row 3: K1, kfb, K1, kfb, K1. 7 sts.
5. Row 4: P all sts.
6. Row 5: K2tog, K3, ssk. 5 sts.
7. Row 6: P all sts.
8. Row 7: K2tog, K1, ssk. 3 sts.
9. BO.

Make two leaves. Sew the leaves behind the daisy at opposite angles. Attach the full flower to the top right side of the head, slightly overlapping the ear attachment.

Optional Lower Cardigan Buttons

The puppy has tiny button details near the lower cardigan and shoe area. These details add charm and make the toy look like a handmade woodland companion.

• Sew one tiny wooden button on each lower green cardigan band.
• Sew one button near the outside of each shoe cuff if desired.
• Use matching sewing thread and stitch through each button at least four times.
• For a child-safe toy, embroider small button circles instead of using real buttons.

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Head-to-Body Attachment

The head should be attached securely and slightly forward, with the muzzle facing straight ahead. This forward tilt creates the soft basset hound expression seen in the image.

1. Place the stuffed body on a flat table.
2. Set the head on the neck opening with the white blaze centered over the belly insert.
3. Tilt the head forward about 10 degrees.
4. Pin the head in place at the front, back, and both sides.
5. Use cream or brown yarn to sew around the neck twice.
6. Add extra stitches under the chin so the head does not wobble.

After sewing, press gently around the cheeks and neck. The scarf will cover the neck seam, but the join still needs to be strong enough to hold the large head and ears.

Ear Attachment Angles

Correct ear placement is essential. The ears should not stick outward. They should hang vertically along the sides of the head and slightly curve inward toward the front paws.

• Top of each ear begins about 0.75 in / 2 cm below the crown.
• Front top corner begins beside the outer edge of the eye patch.
• Back top corner angles toward the back of the head.
• Use a curved seam line about 1.5 in / 3.8 cm long.
• Secure the upper third of the ear firmly and leave the lower part loose.

If the ears flare outward, add one hidden stitch near the inner lower edge of each ear to tack it softly against the cheek. Do not sew the full ear down.

Facial Shaping

Use long shaping stitches to make the face more expressive. Thread cream yarn through the back of the head, exit beside one muzzle lobe, pull gently, and return through the other side. This creates soft cheek definition.

1. Enter through the back lower head with a long yarn tail.
2. Exit at the left side of the muzzle seam.
3. Insert at the right side of the muzzle seam.
4. Exit at the back lower head again.
5. Pull gently until the muzzle dimples slightly.
6. Knot securely and hide the tail inside the head.

Repeat once beneath each eye if needed. Pull very gently. Over-tightening can distort the safety eyes or make the face look pinched instead of soft.

Woodland Stripe Placement

The image has a cozy handmade look because the stripes are repeated across the hat, cardigan, scarf, and sleeves. Keep the colors consistent and place the stripes horizontally whenever possible.

• Use forest green for edges, cuffs, strap, and bag.
• Use rusty orange as narrow accent stripes.
• Use cream-white as the main light stripe.
• Use chestnut brown to connect the accessories visually to the ears.
• Keep stripe rows even, usually 2 to 4 rows per color.

For the cleanest result, weave yarn tails on the wrong side before assembling. Do not carry dark colors loosely behind cream-white sections if the floats may show through.

Seaming Tips for a Smooth Finish

Use mattress stitch for side seams and whip stitch for small appliques. Always match yarn color to the piece being sewn. For the white blaze, use cream yarn. For ears and brown patches, use chestnut yarn.

• Keep seams firm but not puckered.
• Use short stitches around curved pieces.
• Pin all face pieces before sewing permanently.
• Check symmetry from the front after every major attachment.
• Hide knots inside stuffed pieces whenever possible.

Stuffing Guide

Stuffing changes the final shape dramatically. Add fiberfill in small pieces instead of one large clump. This keeps the head round, the muzzle smooth, and the paws evenly shaped.

• Head: firm, especially at the forehead and cheeks.
• Body: firm at the base, medium at the upper body.
• Muzzle: light to medium, rounded but soft.
• Ears: almost flat, with stuffing only near the upper seam.
• Paws: firm at the front toe area.
• Bag: very light stuffing or felt insert only.
• Acorns: light stuffing so they stay small.

Final Assembly Order

1. Knit and stuff the body.
2. Sew the belly insert to the front body.
3. Knit, seam, and stuff the head.
4. Sew the white blaze to the head front.
5. Add brown eye patches and safety eyes.
6. Sew the muzzle under the blaze.
7. Add the nose, nostrils, and mouth.
8. Attach the head to the body at a forward angle.
9. Knit and attach both long ears.
10. Knit front legs, paws, and shoe edges.
11. Attach legs and feet to the body.
12. Make cardigan pieces and sew them around the body.
13. Add striped sleeves and green front bands.
14. Wrap and secure the scarf around the neck.
15. Make the hat and place it beside the puppy.
16. Make the bag, strap, and mushroom patch.
17. Attach the bag and strap diagonally across the puppy.
18. Knit the acorns and place them near the bag.
19. Make the daisy and leaves, then sew them to the head.
20. Add final buttons, shaping stitches, and finishing details.

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Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the puppy from the front before tying off any final yarn tails. The white blaze should be centered, the eyes should be level, and the muzzle should sit evenly under the nose.

Brush the surface lightly with your fingers to smooth the stitches. Adjust the ears so they hang in long rounded panels beside the face. The bottom tips should reach near the front paws.

Add tiny embroidered details only after the main face is complete. A small mouth line, tiny nostril curves, and optional eye highlights are enough. Keep the expression soft, calm, and friendly.

Care Notes

• Spot clean with cool water and mild soap.
• Do not machine wash if using safety eyes, buttons, or a structured bag.
• Press out extra water with a towel instead of twisting.
• Let the toy air dry fully on a flat towel.
• Reshape ears, paws, muzzle, and hat while damp.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is firmly attached and tilted slightly forward.
• The white blaze runs straight down the center of the face.
• The long brown ears hang below the cheeks.
• The muzzle is rounded into two soft lobes.
• The cardigan stripes line up neatly across the front.
• The scarf sits under the chin and covers the neck seam.
• The green bag hangs on the puppy’s right side.
• The mushroom patch has visible white dots.
• The daisy has eight white petals and two green leaves.
• The hat and acorns are finished as separate display props.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished woodland basset hound away from direct sunlight to protect the warm brown, green, and rusty orange yarn colors. Long sun exposure can fade the ears, cardigan stripes, and mushroom patch.

For dust removal, use a soft dry cloth or a gentle lint roller. Avoid pulling across the daisy petals, bag strap, or ear edges. These small details should be cleaned with light tapping motions.

If the toy becomes flattened during storage, reshape it by hand. Gently fluff the head and body, smooth the ears downward, round the muzzle with your fingers, and press the feet flat so the puppy sits correctly again.

For long-term display, keep the hat and acorns beside the puppy in the same position. This preserves the full woodland scene and keeps the finished knitted set looking close to the original image.