Crochet Tutorial: Daisy Meadow Moose – Free Crochet Pattern

This Daisy Meadow Moose is a soft amigurumi-style crochet doll with a cream head and body, a large rounded brown muzzle, wide brown antlers, long ears, slim arms, and little hoofed feet. The moose wears cream short overalls with green edging, embroidered meadow leaves, two small wooden-style buttons, sandals with bead-like accents, a tiny flower hair clip, a matching daisy shoulder bag, and a simple summer straw hat with a daisy.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US crochet terms and is designed to create a finished moose doll that closely matches the image: a tall seated-friendly plush with a soft cream body, oversized brown snout, branching antlers, green meadow overalls, daisy accents, sandals, and small matching accessories.

The finished doll is approximately 12.5–14 inches tall when made with sport or light worsted cotton yarn and a firm amigurumi tension. The head is slightly oval, the muzzle is intentionally large and round, and the body is slim enough to fit inside the crocheted short overalls.

Skill Level

• Confident beginner to intermediate.
• You should know how to work in continuous rounds.
• You should be comfortable sewing small parts neatly.
• You should be able to embroider small decorative details.
• The antlers require shaping and firm stuffing, but the stitch pattern is simple.

Finished Size

• Moose doll height from feet to top of antlers: about 13 inches.
• Body without antlers: about 10.5 inches.
• Head width with ears, not including antlers: about 5.5 inches.
• Overall shorts length: about 4.5 inches from bib top to leg hem.
• Shoulder bag size: about 2.25 inches wide.
• Straw hat diameter: about 4.5 inches.

Materials

• Sport weight or light DK cotton yarn in cream for head, body, arms, legs, and overall base.
• Medium brown yarn for muzzle, hooves, antlers, sandals, and small details.
• Olive green yarn for overall borders, straps, leaf embroidery, bag border, and hat band.
• Soft pink yarn for the small flower near the ear.
• Yellow yarn for flower centers.
• White yarn for daisies and sandal straps.
• Small amount of darker cream or beige yarn for ears and bag base.
• 2.25 mm crochet hook for firm amigurumi fabric.
• 2.5 mm crochet hook for the hat and bag if you want a softer edge.
• Fiberfill stuffing.
• Two 6 mm black safety eyes or black embroidery thread.
• Two small round tan buttons, about 8–10 mm wide, for the overall straps.
• Small tan beads or embroidered French knots for sandal bead accents.
• Yarn needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Sewing pins.
• Scissors.
• Optional: pipe cleaners or thin floral wire for antler firmness.

Abbreviations

• MR = magic ring.
• ch = chain.
• sl st = slip stitch.
• sc = single crochet.
• hdc = half double crochet.
• dc = double crochet.
• tr = treble crochet.
• inc = increase, 2 sc in the same stitch.
• dec = invisible decrease over 2 stitches.
• BLO = back loop only.
• FLO = front loop only.
• st = stitch.
• sts = stitches.
• R = round or row.
• FO = fasten off.

Gauge and Tension

For the doll shown in the image, the stitches should be compact and rounded, with no stuffing visible. Use a smaller hook than the yarn label recommends. A firm tension gives the muzzle its smooth dome shape and makes the antlers stand upright.

• Approximate gauge: 7 sc and 7 rounds = 1 inch.
• If your fabric has gaps, switch to a smaller hook.
• If your antlers feel floppy, stuff more firmly or insert pipe cleaners inside the antler branches.
• Stuff the head and muzzle very firmly, but keep arms slightly softer so they hang naturally.

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Important Construction Notes

The moose is built from separate amigurumi pieces. The legs and body are crocheted first, then the head, muzzle, ears, arms, antlers, overalls, sandals, and accessories are added. The oversized muzzle is sewn onto the lower front of the face, covering much of the head width.

The overalls are made as a separate garment so the green waistband, bib, straps, and leg hems look crisp like the picture. Small green embroidered leaves are stitched across the cream short legs and bib after the garment is assembled.

Moose Legs

Make two legs in cream. Each leg is narrow and straight, slightly longer than the shorts, with a brown hoof attached at the bottom. Stuff the legs firmly enough to hold shape but not so hard that they become stiff.

Leg One

1. R1: With cream yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: BLO sc in each st around. 18 sts.
5. R5–R8: sc in each st around. 18 sts.
6. R9: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 15 sts.
7. R10–R22: sc in each st around. 15 sts.
8. Stuff the leg evenly. FO on first leg and set aside.

Leg Two

1. R1–R22: Repeat the same instructions as Leg One.
2. Do not fasten off after R22.
3. Stuff the second leg evenly.
4. Continue directly to joining the legs for the body.

Joining the Legs and Crocheting the Body

The body is cream and slightly tapered at the neck. The lower body should be slim enough to fit inside the overalls, while the upper chest remains visible above the bib straps.

1. From Leg Two, ch 3.
2. Join to Leg One with 1 sc in any stitch on Leg One.
3. R23: sc 15 around Leg One, sc 3 across one side of the chain, sc 15 around Leg Two, sc 3 across the other side of the chain. 36 sts.
4. R24: sc in each st around. 36 sts.
5. R25: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
6. R26–R34: sc in each st around. 42 sts.
7. R35: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
8. R36–R39: sc in each st around. 36 sts.
9. R40: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
10. R41–R43: sc in each st around. 30 sts.
11. R44: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
12. R45–R46: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
13. Stuff the body firmly, especially around the hip and chest.
14. R47: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
15. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing the head later.

Head

The head is cream, rounded, and slightly taller than it is wide. The muzzle will cover the front lower half of the face, so place the eyes a little higher than usual. The face should look gentle and handmade, with simple small black eyes.

1. R1: With cream yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
9. R9–R17: sc in each st around. 48 sts.
10. R18: sc 6, dec, repeat around. 42 sts.
11. R19: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
12. Insert safety eyes between R13 and R14, about 8 stitches apart. The muzzle will sit below them.
13. R20: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
14. R21: sc 3, dec, repeat around. 24 sts.
15. Begin stuffing the head firmly, shaping it into a soft oval.
16. R22: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 18 sts.
17. R23: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
18. Add more stuffing until the head feels smooth and full.
19. R24: dec around. 6 sts.
20. FO, close the hole, and weave in the end.

Large Rounded Muzzle

The muzzle is the most noticeable feature. It is a large brown oval dome that projects from the face. It should be wide, rounded, and slightly flattened where it is sewn against the head.

1. R1: With medium brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
7. R7: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
8. R8–R13: sc in each st around. 42 sts.
9. R14: sc 5, dec, repeat around. 36 sts.
10. R15: sc 4, dec, repeat around. 30 sts.
11. R16: sc in each st around. 30 sts.
12. FO, leaving a very long sewing tail.

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Stuff the muzzle firmly before sewing. Pin it to the lower front of the head so the top edge sits just below the eyes and the bottom edge reaches close to the lower face. Sew around the edge with small, even stitches. Add extra stuffing before closing the final inch.

Nostrils and Face Detail

• Using dark brown yarn, embroider two small curved nostrils on the upper front of the muzzle, about 6 stitches apart.
• Each nostril should be 2 short stitches wide, shaped like a soft comma.
• Using black thread, add a tiny straight eyelash stitch at the outer corner of each eye if desired.
• Do not add a large mouth; the image keeps the face simple and soft.

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and slightly curved downward beside the antlers. Make two in cream with optional beige inner details. They should sit behind the flower and under the antler bases.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. R1: With cream yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 12 sts.
4. R4–R8: sc in each st around. 12 sts.
5. R9: sc 2, dec, repeat around. 9 sts.
6. R10: sc in each st around. 9 sts.
7. Flatten the ear. Do not stuff.
8. Sc through both layers across the opening. FO with a long tail.

Inner Ear Detail, Make 2

1. With beige yarn, ch 7.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch.
3. Work along the other side of the chain: sc 4, inc in last st. 14 sts around oval.
4. FO, leaving a tail.
5. Sew one inner ear oval onto the center of each cream ear.

Sew the ears to the sides of the head between R11 and R15. Angle them slightly downward and outward. The left ear should sit partly behind the small pink daisy flower.

Antlers

The antlers are brown, soft, branching, and slightly oversized. Each antler has a main stem and two rounded branches, giving the moose a friendly woodland look. Stuff them firmly so they stand upright.

Main Antler Stem, Make 2

1. R1: With medium brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 9 sts.
3. R3–R10: sc in each st around. 9 sts.
4. Stuff firmly as you go.
5. R11: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 6 sts.
6. Do not close yet. FO with a long sewing tail.

Antler Branch A, Make 2

1. R1: With brown yarn, make 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 10 sts.
3. R3–R6: sc in each st around. 10 sts.
4. R7: dec around. 5 sts.
5. Stuff lightly. FO with tail.

Antler Branch B, Make 2

1. R1: With brown yarn, make 5 sc in MR. 5 sts.
2. R2: sc 1, inc, repeat around, ending with sc 1. 7 sts.
3. R3–R5: sc in each st around. 7 sts.
4. Stuff lightly. FO with tail.

Antler Palm Shape, Make 2

This little flattened section makes the antler look broad and paddle-like, similar to the image.

1. R1: With brown yarn, ch 7.
2. R2: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch, work on opposite side, sc 4, inc in last ch. 14 sts.
3. R3: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 1. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc in each st around. 18 sts.
5. Flatten lightly and FO with long tail.

Assembling Each Antler

1. Sew one palm shape to the upper end of one main stem.
2. Sew Branch A to the outer upper side of the palm.
3. Sew Branch B to the inner side of the palm, slightly lower.
4. Shape all branch tips round with your fingers.
5. Repeat for the second antler, mirroring the branch placement.

Pin both antlers to the top sides of the head between R5 and R9. The bases should sit behind the ears. Sew several times around each base so the antlers stand firmly and tilt outward slightly.

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Arms

The arms are slim and cream with brown hooves at the ends. They hang naturally down the sides of the body and should be sewn just below the neck, partly behind the overall straps.

Make 2

1. R1: With brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3–R5: sc in each st around. 12 sts.
4. Change to cream yarn.
5. R6: BLO sc in each st around. 12 sts.
6. R7–R22: sc in each st around. 12 sts.
7. Stuff the hoof firmly and the upper arm lightly.
8. R23: flatten the opening and sc 6 through both layers.
9. FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the arms to the body at R43–R45, one on each side. Angle them slightly downward so the hooves rest near the side seams of the overalls.

Brown Hoof Details for Feet

The feet in the image have brown sandal-like hoof fronts. Crochet two rounded hoof caps and sew them to the front lower part of each leg.

Foot Hoof Cap, Make 2

1. R1: With brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4–R5: sc in each st around. 18 sts.
5. R6: sc 1, dec, repeat around. 12 sts.
6. Stuff lightly.
7. FO with a tail.

Flatten the back slightly and sew one hoof cap to the front bottom of each cream leg. The rounded brown side should face forward like a soft toe.

Overalls Base

The overalls are cream with green trim. They cover the lower body and form short legs. Work them separately and slide them onto the doll from the feet upward before adding the straps and buttons.

Shorts Leg One

1. R1: With cream yarn, ch 24 and join with sl st to form a ring. Be careful not to twist.
2. R2: ch 1, sc in each ch around. 24 sts.
3. R3–R7: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
4. Change to olive green.
5. R8: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
6. R9: sl st in each st around for a neat green hem.
7. FO and set aside.

Shorts Leg Two

1. R1–R9: Repeat Shorts Leg One.
2. Do not fasten off after R9 if you want to continue joining, or rejoin cream yarn at the upper edge.

Join the Shorts

1. With cream yarn attached to one leg opening at the top edge, sc 24 around first leg.
2. Ch 2 for the crotch space.
3. Sc 24 around second leg.
4. Ch 2 and join to first stitch. Total 52 sts.
5. R1: sc in each st and chain around. 52 sts.
6. R2–R7: sc in each st around. 52 sts.
7. R8: sc 11, dec, repeat around. 48 sts.
8. Change to olive green.
9. R9: sc in each st around. 48 sts.
10. R10: sc in each st around. 48 sts.
11. R11: sl st in each st around. 48 sts.
12. FO and weave in ends.

Slide the shorts onto the moose from the feet upward. The green waistband should sit around the lower chest. Adjust so the short legs are even and the crotch sits neatly between the doll legs.

Overall Bib

The bib is cream with green edging. It sits on the front of the chest, covering the upper belly but leaving the shoulders visible.

1. With cream yarn, ch 15.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2–8: sc 14. Ch 1, turn.
4. Change to olive green.
5. Row 9: sc 14 across. Ch 1, turn.
6. Border: Work sc evenly around all four sides, placing 2 sc in each corner.
7. Join with sl st and FO, leaving a long tail.

Center the bib on the front of the waistband. Sew the bottom edge of the bib to the green waistband. Sew only the lower and side edges, leaving the top edge clean and flat.

Overall Straps

The straps are green and cross from the back waistband over the shoulders to the front bib. The front has two small tan buttons, just like the picture.

Make 2 Straps

1. With olive green yarn, ch 31.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 30.
3. Ch 1, turn.
4. Row 2: sc 30.
5. FO, leaving a tail at both ends.

1. Sew one end of each strap to the back waistband, about 7 stitches apart.
2. Bring each strap over the shoulder to the front bib.
3. Keep the straps straight, not crossed, as shown in the image.
4. Sew each strap to the upper front corners of the bib.
5. Sew one small tan button on top of each front strap end.

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Green Leaf Embroidery on Overalls

The overalls have small scattered green meadow sprigs. Use olive green yarn or embroidery floss. Keep the leaves simple and evenly spaced so the decoration looks handmade but tidy.

• On the bib, embroider 3 small leaf sprigs.
• On each short leg, embroider 4–5 leaf sprigs.
• Each sprig is made of one short vertical stitch with two angled leaf stitches on each side.
• Make each sprig about 3 rounds tall.
• Do not overfill the fabric; leave visible cream space between motifs.

Sandal Soles

The sandals are brown with cream straps and small bead-like trim across the top. They sit over the brown hoof caps and give the moose a sweet summer outfit.

Make 2 Soles

1. With brown yarn, ch 9.
2. R1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 7, 3 sc in last ch.
3. Continue on the opposite side of the chain: sc 6, inc in last ch. 18 sts.
4. R2: inc, sc 6, inc 3 times, sc 6, inc 2 times. 24 sts.
5. R3: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
6. FO with a long tail.

Sew one sole under each foot, keeping the oval centered. The sole should extend slightly beyond the brown hoof cap but not look oversized.

Cream Sandal Straps

• For each foot, use cream yarn to embroider one vertical strap from the toe center toward the ankle.
• Add one horizontal strap across the front of the foot.
• Secure all ends inside the foot.
• Add 5–6 tan bead-like French knots or tiny sewn beads along the ankle edge of each sandal.

Small Pink Flower Hair Clip

The little flower sits beside one ear near the antler base. It has pink petals and a yellow center. Keep it small so it does not cover the face.

Flower Center

1. With yellow yarn, make 6 sc in MR.
2. Join with sl st and FO.

Petals

1. Join pink yarn to any stitch of the yellow center.
2. In same stitch: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
3. Sl st into next stitch.
4. Repeat the petal sequence around to make 6 petals.
5. FO, leaving a sewing tail.

Sew the flower to the left side of the head near the ear, just below the antler. Angle it slightly forward so it is visible from the front.

Daisy Shoulder Bag

The shoulder bag is a tiny cream square pouch with a green border, a flower on the front, and a long cord strap. It should hang beside the moose, similar to the image.

Bag Front Panel

1. With cream yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2–10: sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
4. Change to olive green.
5. Border: sc evenly around all sides, placing 2 sc in each corner.
6. FO and weave in end.

Bag Back Panel

1. With cream yarn, ch 13.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
3. Row 2–10: sc 12. Ch 1, turn.
4. Do not add the green border yet.
5. FO with a long tail.

Joining the Bag

1. Place front and back panels together with wrong sides touching.
2. Join olive green yarn at one upper corner.
3. Sc through both layers down the side, across the bottom, and up the other side.
4. Leave the top open.
5. FO and weave in ends.

Daisy on Bag

1. With brown yarn, make 6 sc in MR for the center. Join and FO.
2. Join cream yarn to the center.
3. For each petal: ch 3, hdc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, sl st into next center stitch.
4. Repeat until you have 6 petals.
5. Sew the daisy to the front center of the bag.

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Bag Strap

1. With cream yarn, ch 75.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across.
3. FO, leaving tails.
4. Sew each end to the upper side corners of the bag.

Place the bag over one shoulder or position it beside the doll as a removable accessory. The strap should be long and thin, matching the delicate cord shown in the image.

Simple Straw Hat

The hat is a flat-brim summer hat in beige, with a raised crown, green band, and white daisy. It is an accessory that sits beside the moose rather than on the head, because the antlers make wearing it difficult.

Hat Crown

1. R1: With beige yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: sc 3, inc, repeat around. 30 sts.
6. R6: BLO sc in each st around. 30 sts.
7. R7–R12: sc in each st around. 30 sts.

Hat Brim

1. R13: FLO sc 4, inc, repeat around. 36 sts.
2. R14: sc 5, inc, repeat around. 42 sts.
3. R15: sc 6, inc, repeat around. 48 sts.
4. R16: sc 7, inc, repeat around. 54 sts.
5. R17: sc in each st around. 54 sts.
6. R18: sl st in each st around for a neat edge.
7. FO and weave in ends.

Hat Band

1. With olive green yarn, ch 34.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sc 33.
3. FO with a long tail.
4. Wrap around the base of the crown and sew in place.

Hat Daisy

1. With yellow yarn, make 6 sc in MR. Join and FO.
2. Join white yarn to any stitch.
3. Make 6 petals: ch 3, hdc in second ch from hook, dc in next ch, sl st into next stitch of the center.
4. FO with a sewing tail.
5. Sew the daisy onto the side of the green hat band.

Optional Small Yarn Basket

The photo also includes a tiny yarn basket in the background. This is optional, but it completes the cozy craft table scene. Make it in beige and fill it with tiny yarn balls.

Basket

1. R1: With beige yarn, make 6 sc in MR. 6 sts.
2. R2: inc in each st around. 12 sts.
3. R3: sc 1, inc, repeat around. 18 sts.
4. R4: sc 2, inc, repeat around. 24 sts.
5. R5: BLO sc in each st around. 24 sts.
6. R6–R10: sc in each st around. 24 sts.
7. R11: sl st in each st around. FO.

Basket Handle

1. With beige yarn, ch 22.
2. Starting in second ch from hook, sl st across.
3. FO with tails.
4. Sew each end to opposite sides of the basket.

Tiny Yarn Balls

• Make several tiny balls in red, purple, blue, green, and brown.
• For each ball: 6 sc in MR, then sc one round, then dec around and close.
• Use spare yarn tails to wrap around each ball for a yarn-ball look.

Optional Small Crochet Sampler Square

The background mat in the image has a cream center with red and green decorative stitching. This small square can be used as a table prop beside the moose.

1. With cream yarn, ch 18.
2. Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 17. Ch 1, turn.
3. Rows 2–15: sc 17. Ch 1, turn.
4. Change to green yarn and sc around the square, placing 2 sc in each corner.
5. Change to red yarn and embroider a simple flower or diamond frame around the center.
6. FO and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Head to the Body

Place the head on top of the body with the muzzle facing forward. The neck opening of the body should sit under the lower center of the head. Pin carefully before sewing, because the large muzzle can make the head tip forward if it is not balanced.

1. Add extra stuffing to the neck area before sewing.
2. Use the long body tail to sew around the neck twice.
3. After the first pass, check that the face looks forward and the antlers are centered.
4. Make a second round of stitches for strength.
5. Pull gently after every few stitches to remove gaps.
6. Secure the yarn and hide the tail inside the body.

Positioning Guide

• Eyes: between head R13 and R14, about 8 stitches apart.
• Muzzle: top edge just below eyes, centered on the lower face.
• Ears: sides of head between R11 and R15.
• Antlers: top sides of head between R5 and R9.
• Flower: beside left ear, slightly forward.
• Arms: body R43–R45, hanging downward.
• Overall waistband: around lower chest and upper belly.
• Bib: centered on front body.
• Straps: from back waistband over shoulders to bib corners.
• Buttons: on front strap ends.

How to Shape the Moose Correctly

The soft handmade charm of this design depends on careful shaping. The body should be straight and gently rounded, while the head should sit slightly forward because of the large muzzle. The muzzle should not point downward; it should project forward like a rounded oval dome.

When stuffing the antlers, use very small pieces of fiberfill. Push stuffing into every branch tip using the back of a crochet hook. If you use pipe cleaners, fold the wire ends inward first so no sharp ends can poke through the stitches.

The overalls should not be tight. They should sit smoothly over the belly with enough room to show the stitch texture. If the shorts are too tight, remake them with a 2.5 mm hook or add 4 stitches to the starting chain of each leg.

Meadow Embroidery Placement

To match the image, keep the embroidery soft and sparse. Use green stitches only, without large colorful flowers on the overalls. The daisy accents should stay on the hair flower, bag, and hat.

• Place one sprig in the center of the bib.
• Place one sprig near each lower bib corner.
• Place two sprigs on the front of each shorts leg.
• Place one sprig near each side seam.
• Use short stitches so the embroidery does not pull the fabric inward.

Making the Buttons Look Like Wood

Use small tan buttons if you have them. If not, crochet tiny button circles. The buttons in the image are light brown and round, placed at the top of the bib where the green straps attach.

Crochet Button Alternative, Make 2

1. With tan yarn, make 6 sc in MR.
2. Join with sl st.
3. FO, leaving a long tail.
4. Use dark brown thread to stitch two tiny lines across the center.
5. Sew one button to each front strap end.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

1. Make sure the legs are even before attaching the overalls permanently.
2. Sew the head securely to the body, checking the front view often.
3. Attach the muzzle firmly and add extra stuffing before closing.
4. Sew ears under the antlers and angle them outward.
5. Sew antlers strongly with repeated stitches around each base.
6. Attach arms so they hang beside the body and do not stick straight out.
7. Slide on the overalls, then sew the bib, straps, and buttons in place.
8. Add green leaf embroidery after the overalls are positioned.
9. Sew sandal soles under the feet and embroider cream sandal straps.
10. Add bead-like stitches along the sandal edge.
11. Sew the pink flower beside one ear.
12. Finish the bag and hat as separate accessories.

Care Notes

• Spot clean gently with a damp cloth and mild soap.
• Do not soak if using wooden buttons or beads.
• Let the doll air dry completely before storing.
• Keep the antlers supported while drying so they do not bend.
• If made for a child under 3, embroider the eyes and avoid beads, buttons, and wire.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The muzzle is large, round, brown, and centered under the eyes.
• The antlers are symmetrical and stand upright.
• The ears are placed below the antlers and angle outward.
• The overalls have green hems, green waistband, green straps, and cream shorts.
• The bib has two buttons at the top corners.
• The green meadow embroidery is small and scattered.
• The sandals have brown soles, cream straps, and small bead-like accents.
• The pink flower sits beside one ear.
• The daisy bag and straw hat are finished as matching accessories.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

To preserve the shape, store the moose upright or lying flat with the antlers resting naturally. Avoid stacking heavy items on top of the doll, because the muzzle and antlers can flatten over time.

For dust removal, use a soft brush and gently sweep in the direction of the stitches. If the overalls or bag become misshapen, smooth them with your fingers while the yarn is slightly damp, then allow them to dry flat.

Keep the doll away from direct sunlight for long periods. Sunlight can fade the cream body, green trim, and pink flower. Store small accessories like the hat and bag in a breathable cotton pouch when not in use.

Final Notes

Your Daisy Meadow Moose is complete when the doll has a soft cream body, oversized brown muzzle, wide antlers, green-trimmed meadow overalls, daisy accents, sandals, shoulder bag, and straw hat. Take time with the small finishing details, because the embroidery, buttons, and accessories are what make this design match the cozy handmade scene in the image.