Knitting Tutorial: Honeybee Garden Chihuahua – Free Knitting Pattern

This sweet knitted Honeybee Garden Chihuahua is a soft toy with a rounded puppy head, large pointed ears, glossy safety eyes, a cream muzzle, and a gentle embroidered mouth. The design includes a mint-and-cream garden dress, tiny floral embroidery, pearl-style buttons, a crossbody bag with a bee detail, a flower headband with bees, daisy sandals, plus small knitted props including a sun hat, watering can, and garden basket.

 

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Pattern Overview

This pattern is written in US English knitting terms. The Chihuahua is worked as a soft, structured knitted doll with separate shaped pieces that are seamed and assembled carefully. The finished toy is designed to sit upright with crossed legs, a wide dress skirt, oversized ears, and small garden accessories arranged just like the image.

The body is knitted firmly so the stuffing does not show through. Most toy pieces are worked flat and seamed, which makes the pattern approachable for newer knitters. Small details such as the bees, flowers, dress embroidery, bag flap, sandal daisies, and buttons bring the finished Chihuahua close to the pictured garden style.

Finished Size

• Finished Chihuahua height: about 11.5 in / 29 cm from seated feet to ear tips.
• Head width: about 4.25 in / 11 cm across the cheeks.
• Ear span: about 8 in / 20 cm from outer ear edge to outer ear edge.
• Dress width: about 6.5 in / 16.5 cm across the lower skirt.
• Crossbody bag: about 2 in / 5 cm wide.
• Sun hat: about 3.75 in / 9.5 cm across the brim.
• Watering can: about 2 in / 5 cm tall.
• Garden basket: about 2 in / 5 cm wide.

Skill Level

Confident beginner to intermediate. You should know how to cast on, knit, purl, increase, decrease, pick up stitches, mattress stitch seams, and embroider simple details. The shaping is simple, but the small decorative pieces require patience and neat finishing.

Materials

• Yarn weight: DK weight yarn for the Chihuahua and clothing. Use sport weight yarn for tiny flowers, bees, fruit, and embroidery if you want smaller, cleaner details.
• Main body color: warm beige or light tan, about 55 g.
• Muzzle and paw color: soft cream, about 20 g.
• Inner ear color: pale peach beige, about 15 g.
• Dress cream color: ivory or natural white, about 30 g.
• Dress mint color: soft sage green, about 35 g.
• Bag mint color: sage green, about 15 g.
• Hat color: straw beige, about 15 g.
• Hat ribbon: mint green yarn or narrow ribbon, about 12 in / 30 cm.
• Bee colors: yellow, black, and white scraps.
• Flower colors: white, yellow, lavender, blue, pink, green scraps.
• Watering can color: light blue or dusty periwinkle, about 12 g.
• Basket color: tan or light brown, about 10 g.
• Needles: US 2 / 2.75 mm straight needles or DPNs for small pieces.
• Smaller needles: US 1 / 2.25 mm for bees, flowers, bag strap, and tiny props.
• Safety eyes: two black 8 mm eyes.
• Safety nose: one black oval nose, 10 mm wide, or embroider one with black yarn.
• Buttons: five tiny pearl buttons, 5 to 6 mm wide, for the dress front.
• Stuffing: polyester fiberfill.
• Other tools: tapestry needle, stitch markers, pins, embroidery needle, scissors, row counter, and optional blush or textile-safe pink pencil.

Gauge

With DK yarn and US 2 / 2.75 mm needles, work 28 stitches and 38 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch. For toys, exact gauge is less important than firm fabric. The knitted fabric should be tight enough that stuffing cannot show through.

For the small bees, flowers, fruit, and bag strap, use US 1 / 2.25 mm needles. This creates compact details that sit neatly on the headband, dress, sandals, and bag flap.

Abbreviations

• CO: cast on
• BO: bind off
• k: knit
• p: purl
• st / sts: stitch / stitches
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
• p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
• ssk: slip, slip, knit
• m1: make 1 increase
• inc: increase
• dec: decrease
• St st: stockinette stitch, knit RS rows and purl WS rows
• G st: garter stitch, knit every row
• sl1: slip 1 stitch purlwise

Construction Notes

The Chihuahua is made from separate knitted pieces. The head and body are rounded with increases and decreases. The ears are large triangular panels with a soft fold at the base. The dress is knitted separately and sewn around the body after the legs and arms are attached.

The headband is a narrow knitted cord with tiny flowers and bees sewn across the top of the head. The dress has a cream upper bodice and flared mint-trimmed skirt with embroidered blue, lavender, pink, and white garden flowers. The crossbody bag hangs from the left shoulder to the right hip.

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Head

Use warm beige yarn and US 2 / 2.75 mm needles. The head is worked flat from the back lower neck upward, shaped into a rounded Chihuahua face, then seamed at the back. Stuff firmly but keep the face smooth.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, m1, k8, m1, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 3 and all WS rows through Row 21: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, m1, k10, m1, k1. 14 sts.
6. Row 6: K2, m1, k10, m1, k2. 16 sts.
7. Row 8: K2, m1, k12, m1, k2. 18 sts.
8. Row 10: K3, m1, k12, m1, k3. 20 sts.
9. Row 12: K3, m1, k14, m1, k3. 22 sts.
10. Row 14: K4, m1, k14, m1, k4. 24 sts.
11. Row 16: K4, m1, k16, m1, k4. 26 sts.
12. Row 18: K5, m1, k16, m1, k5. 28 sts.
13. Row 20: K5, m1, k18, m1, k5. 30 sts.
14. Rows 22 to 34: Work in St st on 30 sts.
15. Row 35: Purl.
16. Row 36: K6, ssk, k14, k2tog, k6. 28 sts.
17. Row 38: K5, ssk, k14, k2tog, k5. 26 sts.
18. Row 40: K5, ssk, k12, k2tog, k5. 24 sts.
19. Row 42: K4, ssk, k12, k2tog, k4. 22 sts.
20. Row 44: K4, ssk, k10, k2tog, k4. 20 sts.
21. Row 46: K3, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3. 18 sts.
22. Row 48: K3, ssk, k8, k2tog, k3. 16 sts.
23. Row 50: K2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2. 14 sts.
24. Row 52: K2, ssk, k6, k2tog, k2. 12 sts.
25. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread through remaining sts and pull gently.

With RS facing out, sew the back seam from the cast-on edge to the gathered top. Stuff as you sew. Keep the lower head fuller than the top so the cheeks look softly rounded. Do not flatten the face.

White Muzzle Patch

The muzzle is a small oval cream piece placed on the lower center of the face. It should begin just below the eyes and curve down around the mouth area.

1. With cream yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, m1, k4, m1, k1. 8 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K1, m1, k6, m1, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 9: Work in St st.
7. Row 10: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
8. Row 11: Purl.
9. Row 12: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
10. BO all sts.

Pin the muzzle to the lower front of the head. The top edge should sit between the eyes, and the lower edge should reach the beginning of the chin. Sew around the edge with tiny cream stitches. Add a little stuffing under the center before closing the final inch.

Nose and Mouth

• Place the black oval nose at the top center of the cream muzzle.
• If using embroidery, make 7 horizontal satin stitches across the nose area, then 3 vertical stitches at the center bottom.
• For the mouth, use black yarn or embroidery floss.
• Stitch one straight vertical line down from the nose for 0.35 in / 1 cm.
• Make two gentle curved stitches from the bottom of that line, one to the left and one to the right.
• Keep the expression soft and calm, matching the quiet garden look in the image.

Eyes and Eye Shaping

The eyes are glossy black and placed slightly above the muzzle. They should be wide apart but not too close to the ear bases. The Chihuahua has a gentle, slightly curious expression.

1. Mark the eye positions on the front of the head between Rows 25 and 28.
2. Leave about 11 knitted stitches between the eyes.
3. Insert two 8 mm black safety eyes before the head is fully closed, or sew beads securely after stuffing.
4. With beige yarn, make a small tightening stitch from the back of the head to the inner side of one eye.
5. Return to the back of the head and repeat on the second eye.
6. Pull gently to create a light eye indentation.
7. Do not pull too tightly, because the face should remain rounded and soft.

Large Chihuahua Ears

The ears are one of the most important features. They are tall, triangular, slightly rounded at the points, and angled outward from the head. Each ear uses a beige outer panel and a peach-beige inner panel.

Outer Ear, Make 2

1. With warm beige yarn, CO 20 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in G st.
3. Row 5: Knit.
4. Row 6: Purl.
5. Row 7: K1, ssk, k14, k2tog, k1. 18 sts.
6. Row 8: Purl.
7. Row 9: K1, ssk, k12, k2tog, k1. 16 sts.
8. Row 10: Purl.
9. Row 11: K1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
10. Row 12: Purl.
11. Row 13: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
12. Row 14: Purl.
13. Row 15: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
14. Row 16: Purl.
15. Row 17: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
16. Row 18: Purl.
17. Row 19: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
18. Row 20: Purl.
19. Row 21: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
20. Row 22: Purl.
21. Row 23: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
22. Row 24: P2tog. 1 st.
23. Fasten off.

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Inner Ear, Make 2

1. With pale peach-beige yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: Work in G st.
3. Row 3: Knit.
4. Row 4: Purl.
5. Row 5: K1, ssk, k10, k2tog, k1. 14 sts.
6. Row 6: Purl.
7. Row 7: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
8. Row 8: Purl.
9. Row 9: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
10. Row 10: Purl.
11. Row 11: K1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1. 8 sts.
12. Row 12: Purl.
13. Row 13: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
14. Row 14: Purl.
15. Row 15: K1, ssk, k2tog, k1. 4 sts.
16. Row 16: Purl.
17. Row 17: Ssk, k2tog. 2 sts.
18. Row 18: P2tog. 1 st.
19. Fasten off.

Place each inner ear panel on top of one outer ear panel. Sew the inner panel down with tiny stitches, leaving a narrow beige border visible. Fold the lower ear edge slightly inward and stitch across the base to create a shallow cup shape.

Sew the ears to the head between Rows 20 and 31. Angle each ear upward and outward at about 45 degrees. The lower inner corners should sit near the upper side of the face, while the outer corners extend wide like the image.

Body

The body is mostly hidden by the dress, but it needs to be firm and balanced so the doll can sit. Use warm beige yarn. The body is pear-shaped, narrower at the neck and fuller at the lower belly.

1. CO 12 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, m1, k10, m1, k1. 14 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2, m1, k10, m1, k2. 16 sts.
6. Row 5: Purl.
7. Row 6: K2, m1, k12, m1, k2. 18 sts.
8. Row 7: Purl.
9. Row 8: K3, m1, k12, m1, k3. 20 sts.
10. Row 9: Purl.
11. Row 10: K3, m1, k14, m1, k3. 22 sts.
12. Row 11: Purl.
13. Row 12: K4, m1, k14, m1, k4. 24 sts.
14. Rows 13 to 27: Work in St st.
15. Row 28: K4, ssk, k12, k2tog, k4. 22 sts.
16. Row 29: Purl.
17. Row 30: K3, ssk, k12, k2tog, k3. 20 sts.
18. Row 31: Purl.
19. Row 32: K3, ssk, k10, k2tog, k3. 18 sts.
20. Row 33: Purl.
21. Row 34: K2, ssk, k10, k2tog, k2. 16 sts.
22. Row 35: Purl.
23. Row 36: K2, ssk, k8, k2tog, k2. 14 sts.
24. Row 37: Purl.
25. Row 38: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
26. BO all sts.

Sew the back seam. Stuff the body firmly at the lower part and slightly softer near the neck. Sew the head to the body with the muzzle facing forward. Use several rounds of stitches around the neck to keep the head upright.

Arms, Make 2

The arms are slim and hang down naturally from the sides of the dress. They are beige at the upper section and cream at the tiny paw tips.

1. With cream yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Change to warm beige yarn.
4. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st.
5. Row 19: K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. 6 sts.
6. Row 20: Purl.
7. BO all sts.

Fold each arm lengthwise and sew the side seam. Add a small amount of stuffing to the paw and lower arm only. Leave the top slightly flat. Sew the arms to the upper sides of the body just under the shoulder line, pointing downward.

Legs, Make 2

The legs are longer than the arms and cross at the lower front. They are beige with cream feet. The finished seated position is important for matching the image.

1. With cream yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, m1, k8, m1, k1. 12 sts.
4. Rows 3 to 8: Work in St st.
5. Row 9: Purl.
6. Row 10: K3, k2tog, k2, ssk, k3. 10 sts.
7. Change to warm beige yarn.
8. Rows 11 to 34: Work in St st.
9. Row 35: Purl.
10. Row 36: K2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2. 8 sts.
11. BO all sts.

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Fold each leg lengthwise and sew the seam. Stuff the feet firmly and the legs lightly. Sew the upper legs to the lower body under the skirt. Cross the right leg over the left at the ankle area, then tack them together with two hidden stitches.

Toe Lines

• Use dark brown embroidery floss or thin yarn.
• Make three short vertical stitches on each cream foot.
• Place the toe lines near the front lower edge of the foot.
• Keep the stitches curved slightly outward so the paws look rounded.

Garden Dress

The dress is the main clothing piece. It has a cream upper area, mint trim, a green center panel, a full skirt, floral embroidery, and pearl-style buttons down the front. It should sit snugly at the neck and flare outward over the seated body.

Dress Bodice

1. With ivory yarn, CO 34 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Knit every row for the lower bodice edge.
3. Row 5: K4, p26, k4.
4. Row 6: Knit.
5. Repeat Rows 5 and 6 four more times, ending with 10 bodice rows total above the garter edge.
6. Row 15: K4, p6, BO 3 sts, p8, BO 3 sts, p6, k4.
7. Row 16: K across, casting on 3 sts over each bound-off armhole gap. 34 sts.
8. Rows 17 to 22: Continue with k4 front bands, St st center.
9. Change to mint yarn.
10. Rows 23 to 26: Knit every row for the neckline trim.
11. BO all sts loosely.

Wrap the bodice around the upper body with the opening at the front. The two garter front bands should overlap slightly. Do not sew it closed yet, because the skirt and button details are added next.

Flared Skirt

1. With mint yarn, CO 58 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row for the thick lower hem.
3. Change to ivory yarn.
4. Row 7: Knit.
5. Row 8: Purl.
6. Row 9: K6, m1, repeat from this spacing across until 66 sts are on the needle.
7. Rows 10 to 16: Work in St st.
8. Row 17: K8, m1, repeat across until 72 sts are on the needle.
9. Rows 18 to 24: Work in St st.
10. Row 25: K2tog across. 36 sts.
11. Row 26: Purl.
12. BO all sts, leaving a long sewing tail.

Gather the skirt slightly along the bound-off edge and sew it to the lower edge of the bodice. The mint garter hem should form a soft scalloped-looking lower border. The front edges should meet at the center but not pull tight.

Mint Center Front Panel

1. With mint yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: Knit.
3. Row 2: K2, p6, k2.
4. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the panel measures 3.75 in / 9.5 cm.
5. BO all sts.

Sew the mint panel vertically down the center front of the dress. It should begin under the neckline trim and extend to the skirt hem. Sew five tiny pearl buttons evenly down the panel, leaving equal spacing between them.

Short Sleeves

1. With ivory yarn, pick up 14 sts evenly around one armhole.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Work in St st.
3. Change to mint yarn.
4. Rows 5 to 6: Knit every row.
5. BO loosely.
6. Repeat for the second sleeve.

The sleeves should sit like short knitted caps over the upper arms. Sew the sleeve underarm seam if needed. Add one line of mint embroidery along the sleeve edge for a clean garden-dress finish.

Dress Floral Embroidery

The dress has scattered flower stems on both cream skirt panels. Use simple embroidery after the dress is attached, so the flowers sit naturally on the curved fabric.

• Stems: Use green yarn and make 6 to 8 lazy straight stitches on each side of the front panel.
• Blue flowers: Make three small blue flowers on the left skirt and three on the right skirt. Each flower uses five tiny detached chain stitches.
• Lavender flowers: Add two lavender blossoms near the lower skirt, one on each side.
• Pink buds: Add small pink French knots or tiny straight stitches near the stems.
• White daisies: Add two white five-petal flowers with yellow centers near the lower right side.
• Leaf stitches: Add 8 to 10 tiny green leaves along the stems, angled upward.

Keep the embroidery light. The image shows delicate garden details, not heavy solid patches. The flowers should look scattered, soft, and handmade across the ivory fabric.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is mint green with a cream flap and a tiny honeybee on the flap. It hangs from a pale strap crossing from the Chihuahua’s right shoulder to the left hip area in the image style.

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Bag Body

1. With mint yarn, CO 16 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Knit every row.
3. Rows 5 to 18: Work in St st.
4. Rows 19 to 22: Knit every row.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the lower edge upward to create a pouch that is about 1.6 in / 4 cm deep. Sew the side seams. Lightly stuff the bag so it has a rounded front, but do not overfill it.

Bag Flap

1. With ivory yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Knit every row.
3. Row 5: K1, ssk, k8, k2tog, k1. 12 sts.
4. Row 6: Knit.
5. Row 7: K1, ssk, k6, k2tog, k1. 10 sts.
6. Rows 8 to 9: Knit.
7. BO all sts.

Sew the straight edge of the flap to the back top edge of the bag. Fold it over the front. The flap should cover the upper half of the mint pouch.

Bag Strap

1. With pale peach or light beige yarn and smaller needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in G st until the strap measures 9.5 in / 24 cm.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one strap end to each side of the bag. Place the strap over the right shoulder and let the bag sit at the left front hip, slightly over the dress skirt. Tack the strap to the shoulder with one hidden stitch so it does not slide.

Tiny Honeybee for Bag

1. With yellow yarn and smaller needles, CO 5 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: Work in St st.
3. Change to black yarn.
4. Rows 3 to 4: Work in St st.
5. Change to yellow yarn.
6. Rows 5 to 6: Work in St st.
7. Thread yarn through all sts, pull tight, and seam into a tiny oval.
8. With white yarn, CO 3 sts for one wing, knit 2 rows, BO. Make 2 wings.
9. Sew one wing to each side of the bee.

Sew the bee to the right side of the cream bag flap. Add one short black stitch at the front for the head. Keep the bee small enough that the flap remains visible.

Flower Headband

The headband is a narrow mint band across the top of the head, sitting between the ears. It carries small flowers and two bees, giving the toy its honeybee garden theme.

Headband Base

1. With mint yarn and smaller needles, CO 5 sts.
2. Work in G st until the band measures 4.75 in / 12 cm.
3. BO all sts.

Pin the band from the base of one ear across the top of the head to the base of the other ear. Sew it down with small hidden stitches. Let it curve naturally around the rounded head.

Headband Flowers

• Make two white flowers with yellow centers.
• Make two lavender flowers.
• Make two pale blue buds.
• Make one small pink flower.
• Place the flowers unevenly across the headband for a natural garden look.

Simple Knitted Flower, Make 7

1. With flower color, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K2tog five times. 5 sts.
3. Cut yarn, thread through remaining sts, and pull tight.
4. Coil the tiny strip into a flower shape.
5. Sew through the center several times.
6. Add a yellow center stitch for white flowers.

Headband Bees, Make 2

The bees on the headband are slightly larger than the bag bee. They sit upright like tiny decorations, with yellow-and-black striped bodies and small white wings.

1. With yellow yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 2: Work in St st.
3. Change to black yarn.
4. Rows 3 to 4: Work in St st.
5. Change to yellow yarn.
6. Rows 5 to 6: Work in St st.
7. Change to black yarn.
8. Rows 7 to 8: Work in St st.
9. Cut yarn, thread through the sts, pull tight, and seam into a small oval body.
10. For each wing, CO 4 sts with white yarn, knit 3 rows, BO. Make 4 wings total.
11. Sew two wings to each bee.

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Sew one bee near the left top side of the headband and one bee near the center-right area. Angle them slightly differently so they look playful, as if resting among the flowers.

Daisy Sandals

The sandals are cream and beige with little white daisies on the toes. They sit over the front of each foot and should remain visible even when the legs are crossed.

Sandal Straps, Make 2

1. With beige yarn and smaller needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in G st for 1.4 in / 3.5 cm.
3. BO all sts.

Sew one strap over the top of each cream foot. Curve it slightly so it follows the rounded foot shape. Attach both ends under the foot edge with small stitches.

Toe Daisies, Make 2

1. With white yarn, CO 10 sts.
2. Row 1: K2tog five times. 5 sts.
3. Thread yarn through all sts and pull into a small flower.
4. Add a yellow center stitch.
5. Sew one daisy to the front of each sandal strap.

Sun Hat Prop

The hat sits beside the Chihuahua in the image. It is a flat, round straw-colored garden hat with a mint bow. This is a separate prop and does not need to fit the head unless you prefer it to.

Hat Crown

1. With straw beige yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Row 1: Purl.
3. Row 2: K1, m1 across to last st, k1. 14 sts.
4. Row 3: Purl.
5. Row 4: K2, m1 across evenly to 20 sts.
6. Rows 5 to 12: Work in St st.
7. Row 13: K2tog across. 10 sts.
8. Cut yarn, thread through sts, pull tight, and seam the back.

Hat Brim

1. With straw beige yarn, CO 52 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row.
3. Row 7: K2tog across. 26 sts.
4. Row 8: Knit.
5. BO all sts.

Join the brim into a circle. Sew the crown to the center opening of the brim. Shape the brim flat with your fingers. Add the mint band around the crown and a small bow at the front side.

Mint Bow

1. With mint yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row.
3. BO all sts.
4. Wrap yarn around the center to pinch it into a bow.
5. Sew the bow to the hat band.

Watering Can Prop

The watering can is a small blue knitted garden accessory placed beside the toy. It has a rounded body, handle, spout, and tiny top opening.

Watering Can Body

1. With light blue yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 4: Knit every row.
3. Rows 5 to 16: Work in St st.
4. Rows 17 to 20: Knit every row.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the knitted piece in half. Sew the side and bottom seams to form a small pouch. Add a little stuffing and close the top with a shallow opening shape.

Handle

1. With light blue yarn and smaller needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in G st for 2.25 in / 5.5 cm.
3. BO all sts.

Sew the handle to one side of the watering can, forming a curved loop. Secure both ends strongly because the handle is narrow.

Spout

1. With light blue yarn, CO 6 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 8: Work in St st.
3. Row 9: K2tog, k2, k2tog. 4 sts.
4. Row 10: Purl.
5. BO all sts.

Roll the spout piece into a narrow tube and sew the edge. Attach it to the opposite side of the watering can at a slight upward angle. Add a small knob on top with three blue stitches.

Garden Basket Prop

The small basket sits beside the watering can and holds colorful garden fruit or vegetables. It is knitted in tan yarn with a curved handle.

Basket Base and Sides

1. With tan yarn, CO 18 sts.
2. Rows 1 to 6: Knit every row.
3. Rows 7 to 18: Work in St st.
4. Rows 19 to 22: Knit every row.
5. BO all sts.

Fold the lower section up to form a shallow rectangular basket. Sew the side seams. Pinch the bottom corners inward and stitch them to create a boxy base.

Basket Handle

1. With tan yarn and smaller needles, CO 4 sts.
2. Work in G st for 3 in / 7.5 cm.
3. BO all sts.

Sew each end of the handle to the inside top edge of the basket. Curve the handle upward. Keep it stable with a second row of stitches at each attachment point.

Tiny Garden Fruit

• Yellow fruit: CO 6 sts, work 4 rows St st, gather tightly into a ball.
• Green fruit: CO 6 sts, work 4 rows St st, gather tightly into a ball.
• Red fruit: CO 6 sts, work 4 rows St st, gather tightly into a ball and add a green top stitch.
• Leaf: CO 4 sts with green yarn, knit 2 rows, BO, then sew near the fruit.

Place three to five tiny fruit pieces inside the basket. Sew them lightly to the basket base so they stay visible and do not fall out during display.

Optional Pearl Buttons

The dress in the image has a line of white pearl-style buttons down the green front panel. Use five small buttons for the closest look. If the toy is for a young child, replace buttons with embroidered circles for safety.

• Button 1 sits just under the neckline trim.
• Button 2 sits at the upper chest.
• Button 3 sits at the waist.
• Button 4 sits on the upper skirt panel.
• Button 5 sits near the lower front panel.

Seaming and Shaping Tips

Use mattress stitch whenever possible for smooth seams. When closing small toy pieces, keep the seam on the back or underside. Do not stretch the knitted fabric while sewing, because stretched seams can distort the rounded amigurumi-style shape.

Stuff slowly in small pieces. Add stuffing to the cheeks, head top, muzzle, belly, feet, and bag before fully closing. Use the back of a knitting needle or a stuffing tool to push fiberfill into small corners.

Assembly Order

1. Finish the head and sew the back seam.
2. Add the cream muzzle, nose, mouth, and eyes.
3. Attach the ears at outward angles.
4. Knit and stuff the body.
5. Sew the head to the body securely.
6. Make and attach the arms and legs.
7. Cross the legs and tack them in place.
8. Knit the dress bodice and skirt.
9. Place the dress around the body and sew it neatly.
10. Add the front panel, buttons, and floral embroidery.
11. Make the bag, strap, and tiny bag bee.
12. Make the headband, flowers, and two bees.
13. Add sandal straps and daisy flowers to the feet.
14. Knit the hat, watering can, basket, and fruit props.
15. Check the final posture and adjust the details.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

After all major pieces are attached, view the Chihuahua from the front. The ears should be balanced, the eyes level, the muzzle centered, and the dress front straight. The toy should look gentle, tidy, and garden-themed.

• Use beige yarn to close any visible gaps near the neck.
• Add two tiny beige stitches above the eyes for soft brow shaping if desired.
• Brush the ears lightly with your fingers to smooth the surface.
• Check that the headband sits between the ears, not too far forward.
• Make sure the bag rests over the dress without covering all the embroidery.
• Arrange the hat, watering can, and basket beside the toy for display.

Care Notes

Hand wash only if necessary. Use cool water and a small amount of gentle wool wash. Do not twist or scrub the toy. Press gently in a towel and reshape the head, ears, dress, and accessories while damp.

Let the Chihuahua dry flat in a shaded area with good airflow. Keep the ears supported while drying so they do not fold downward. Do not machine dry, because heat can damage the shape and embroidery.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• The head is round, smooth, and firmly stuffed.
• The cream muzzle is centered and lightly raised.
• The black eyes are even and gently indented.
• The large ears angle outward like a Chihuahua’s ears.
• The dress has a mint hem, mint neckline, center panel, and pearl buttons.
• The floral embroidery is scattered on both cream skirt panels.
• The crossbody bag has a cream flap and a tiny honeybee.
• The headband includes flowers and two small bees.
• The legs are crossed and the daisy sandals are visible.
• The hat, watering can, basket, and fruit props are complete.

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Store the finished toy away from strong sunlight to prevent fading. Keep it in a dry place, especially if you used wool or wool-blend yarn. For display, place the Chihuahua on a clean shelf or table where the small bees and flowers will not be pulled.

To remove dust, use a soft dry brush or a lint roller with very light pressure. If the embroidery becomes flattened, gently lift the stitches with the tip of a tapestry needle. Avoid pulling the flowers, bees, bag strap, or basket handle.

If the toy will be stored for a long time, wrap it loosely in acid-free tissue or a clean cotton cloth. Do not compress the ears or hat under heavy items. The large ears and shaped accessories keep their form best when stored with open space around them.