This heirloom bunny doll is designed to look like a luxury knitted rabbit toy with soft woodland styling, gentle spring colors, and a collectible nursery gift finish. The set includes a bonnet with long ears, a textured dress, a short cardigan, tiny shoes, a floral drawstring bag, bell flowers, a hand-tied bouquet, a small folded cloth, and a sweet robin companion. If you love making pieces that feel boutique, giftable, and worthy of an Easter bunny doll display or baby shower gift, this design creates that polished handmade look in a natural and charming way.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main yarn: Fingering or light sport weight wool or wool-blend yarn in warm ivory.
- Accent yarns: Soft blush pink, dusty rose, leaf green, muted brown, rust red, pale yellow, and a tiny amount of black.
- Needles: A set of double-pointed needles in sizes US 1.5 and US 2, or sizes needed to obtain a firm fabric.
- Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, stuffing, sewing needle, matching sewing thread, thin ribbon or knitted cord maker if desired.
- Optional: Very small black beads for eyes, though embroidered eyes are recommended for a softer finish.
Finished Size
The bunny is approximately 13 to 15 inches tall from the bottom of the feet to the tip of the bonnet ears when worked at the stated gauge. The body is slim and elongated. The head is round and full. The legs are long and straight, and the arms are softly tapered.
The dress falls to just above the ankles. The cardigan ends at the waist. The bonnet frames the face closely and ties under the chin with narrow cords. The extra accessories are all scaled to sit naturally around the bunny without looking oversized.
Gauge
32 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette worked in the round on the larger needles. A slightly tight gauge is important so the stuffing does not show. The fabric should feel smooth, dense, and neatly shaped.
Abbreviations
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
- ssk = slip, slip, knit
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- m1 = make 1 increase
- yo = yarn over
- sl = slip
- psso = pass slipped stitch over
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Design Notes
This pattern is written to match the image closely. The bunny has a knitted inner head, then a bonnet placed over it, which creates the soft framed face and the raised edging around the head. The ears are attached to the bonnet, not the head itself.
The dress and cardigan are separate garments. The dress features a textured center bodice panel, eyelet columns in the skirt, and a floral colorwork border with hanging bell blossoms. The cardigan is plain, soft, and slightly cropped with a simple edge and gentle sleeve shaping.
The face is minimal. The eyes are tiny, slanted, and placed wide apart. The nose and mouth are embroidered in dark brown or black in a small Y-shaped arrangement with a short lower split.
For the best result, use mattress stitch on visible seams and stuff lightly but evenly. The doll should feel soft, never stiff. The finished shape is elegant and calm, with a collected handmade appearance rather than a cartoon look.
Main Bunny Body
Legs Make 2
Using ivory and smaller needles, cast on 18 stitches. Join carefully to work in the round. Work 8 rounds in 1×1 rib. This creates the neat ankle and the top of the shoe opening. Change to stockinette and continue in the round.
Round 1: kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. You now have 20 stitches.
Rounds 2 to 10: knit.
Round 11: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1. You now have 22 stitches.
Rounds 12 to 28: knit.
Stuff the lower foot lightly as you work. The leg should remain slender and straight. At this stage, do not overstuff the calf. A gentle, tube-like shape is what gives the doll its elegant proportion.
Work one more leg in the same way. Leave the stitches of the second leg on the needles.
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Join Legs and Work Body
Knit across the first leg, cast on 4 stitches, knit across the second leg, cast on 4 stitches to join for the back. You now have 52 stitches total. Place markers at each side seam if desired.
Rounds 1 to 10: knit.
Round 11: k1, m1, knit to marker, m1, k1, repeat at second side. You now have 56 stitches.
Rounds 12 to 20: knit.
Begin gentle waist shaping so the dress and cardigan sit cleanly over the body. Work decrease rounds at each side every 4th round 3 times. You now have 50 stitches. Knit 8 rounds even.
Increase at each side every 4th round 2 times. You now have 54 stitches. Knit 6 rounds even. This creates a narrow waist and slightly fuller upper torso under the dress bodice.
Upper Torso and Shoulders
Continue in stockinette for 16 more rounds. The body from crotch to neck should now look long and balanced, with most of the fullness concentrated around the hip area but not bulky.
To shape shoulders, divide the stitches into front and back, 27 stitches each. Work flat.
Back: Work 14 rows stockinette. Bind off 7 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for shoulders. Place remaining 13 stitches on hold for the neck.
Front: Work 10 rows stockinette. On the next row, work 10 stitches, bind off 7 center stitches, work to end. Work each side separately. Decrease 1 stitch at neck edge every other row 2 times. When front matches back shoulder height, bind off 7 shoulder stitches on each side.
Arms Make 2
Using ivory and smaller needles, cast on 18 stitches and join in the round. Work 6 rounds of 1×1 rib. Change to stockinette and knit 8 rounds. Increase 1 stitch at each side of an underarm line every 8th round 3 times. You now have 24 stitches.
Knit until arm measures about 3 3/4 inches from cast-on edge. The arms in the image are medium length, softly rounded, and not bulky. Decrease 1 stitch at each side every 3 rounds 3 times. You now have 18 stitches.
Knit 4 rounds even. Stuff lightly from hand to upper arm. Bind off. Flatten the top edge slightly before sewing so the arm angles gently downward from the shoulder.
Head
Using ivory and larger needles, cast on 12 stitches. Divide evenly and join in the round. Work as follows:
Round 1: kfb in every stitch. 24 stitches.
Round 2: knit.
Round 3: k1, kfb around. 36 stitches.
Round 4: knit.
Round 5: k2, kfb around. 48 stitches.
Round 6: knit.
Round 7: k3, kfb around. 60 stitches.
Rounds 8 to 28: knit.
The head should be very round and smooth. Keep the knitting even. This part is highly visible because the face sits inside the bonnet frame. Any uneven tension will show.
Begin shaping.
Round 29: k3, k2tog around. 48 stitches.
Round 30: knit.
Round 31: k2, k2tog around. 36 stitches.
Round 32: knit and begin firm stuffing.
Round 33: k1, k2tog around. 24 stitches.
Round 34: knit.
Round 35: k2tog around. 12 stitches.
Cut yarn, thread through remaining stitches, pull closed securely. Shape the head so the face remains full and the lower edge sits smooth against the neck opening. Sew head to body using the held neck stitches as a guide for centered placement.
Face Shaping and Embroidery
Before adding the bonnet, lightly indent the eye line by passing thread from the back of the head to the eye positions and back again. Pull just enough to suggest gentle facial structure, not deep sockets.
Place the eyes about 7 to 8 stitches apart, slightly above the centerline of the face. Each eye should be tiny and slanted, like a short seed shape. Use black or very dark brown thread and make each eye with only 2 to 3 small stitches.
For the nose, embroider a short vertical line in dark brown. Add two angled stitches from its base to form the upper mouth, then add one short split line below. The total facial embroidery should remain delicate and centered.
Bonnet Frame
Main Bonnet Cap
Using ivory and smaller needles, cast on 72 stitches. Work flat in stockinette with 3 stitches in garter at each edge for a tidy finish. Work 20 rows.
Shape the crown with 6 evenly spaced decrease columns on the RS every other row 6 times. Then work paired decreases every RS row until 18 stitches remain. Draw yarn through remaining stitches and close the top.
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Sew the lower bonnet seam to form a snug head cap. It should fit around the head like a close hood, framing the face with a narrow rolled edge. The opening should reveal most of the face while still hugging the cheeks.
Rolled Face Edge
Pick up stitches evenly around the face opening. Knit 6 rounds in stockinette, then bind off loosely. This rolls naturally and creates the raised smooth ring seen around the bunny’s face.
Bonnet Side Petals
The bonnet in the image has soft decorative points or petal-like tabs around the side and lower edge. Make 10 small petals.
For each petal, cast on 10 stitches. Work 1 row purl. Then work short rows of stockinette decreasing 1 stitch at each side every RS row until 2 stitches remain. Bind off. Sew 5 petals along each side and lower back edge of the bonnet, slightly overlapping. Angle them outward so they flare like soft fabric petals.
Bonnet Ties
Make 2 narrow i-cords, each about 9 inches long. Sew one to each lower front edge of the bonnet. Tie in a neat bow under the chin. The ties should look soft and slender, never thick.
Bonnet Ears Make 2
Using ivory, cast on 8 stitches. Work flat.
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: k1, m1, knit to last stitch, m1, k1.
Row 4: purl.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 20 stitches.
Work 18 rows even in stockinette. Then begin tapering. On each RS row, k1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Work WS rows purl. Continue until 8 stitches remain. Then decrease every row until 2 stitches remain. Bind off.
Make a second outer ear. For inner ear lining, make 2 smaller pieces in pale blush pink, beginning with 6 stitches, increasing to 14 stitches, then tapering to match the shape. Sew pink linings onto the lower two-thirds of the ivory ears, leaving a slim ivory border all around.
Fold the bottom of each ear slightly and sew to the top sides of the bonnet so they stand upright but softly. The ears should angle outward a little, not straight up like rigid triangles.
Dress
Skirt Base
Using ivory and larger needles, cast on 120 stitches and join in the round. Work 6 rounds in garter stitch by alternating knit and purl rounds if desired, or work flat and seam later. Begin the scalloped lower look by working a simple eyelet edging.
Round 1: *k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk; rep around.
Rounds 2 to 6: knit.
This gives the skirt hem a delicate open rhythm. The visual effect should stay subtle. The hem in the image is soft and lightly shaped, not dramatically frilled.
Floral Border Motif
Work 20 rounds in stockinette, inserting the border design across the lower skirt. Space 5 hanging flower clusters evenly around the front and side areas, with more plain space near the back for balance.
Each flower cluster is worked over 14 stitches. Use green for a stem rising upward, then branch into leaves. Below the leaves, place 2 to 3 blush bell flowers hanging downward. Work small touches of pale yellow at flower centers where visible.
Keep floats loose and neat. The flower shapes should resemble tiny drooping bells, not round blossoms. This is one of the most defining features of the garment, so keep the stems thin and slightly curved.
Eyelet Columns and Gathering
After completing the floral border, work 8 rounds in ivory. On the next round, make small decorative eyelet columns by repeating: k2tog, yo, knit 8. Stagger the eyelets on the next eyelet round after 4 plain rounds so the skirt looks airy and refined.
Continue until the skirt measures about 4 1/4 inches. Then decrease evenly around to 84 stitches. Work 4 rounds even. Decrease evenly again to 66 stitches. This creates the gathered waist effect while keeping the skirt soft.
Bodice
Divide as follows: 18 stitches back, 15 stitches side/front, 18 stitches center front panel, 15 stitches side/front. Place markers. The 18-stitch center front panel is worked in a lattice texture that echoes the image.
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Lattice panel over 18 stitches:
- Row 1: k2, *yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2; rep 2 times.
- Row 2 and all WS rows: purl.
- Row 3: k1, *k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k1; rep 2 times.
- Repeat Rows 1 to 4 for the full bodice height.
Work remaining stitches in stockinette. Continue for 18 rows. Shape armholes by binding off 3 stitches at each side underarm, then decreasing 1 stitch each side every other row 2 times.
Work front and back separately to shoulder height. Shape a moderate neck opening, with the center panel staying visible and centered. Bind off shoulders and seam neatly.
Cardigan
The cardigan is short, open in front, and slightly boxy with a clean edge. It sits just above the skirt waistline and covers the upper bodice sides while leaving the center texture visible.
Using ivory and smaller needles, cast on 52 stitches. Work flat. Knit 4 rows in garter. Then switch to stockinette with 4 garter stitches at each front edge.
After 10 rows, divide for sleeves and body by adding 1 stitch at each side every 6th row 4 times, keeping front borders neat. Continue until piece measures to the underarm. Separate sleeves from body if working flat in pieces, or knit each part separately from this point.
Back: Work straight to shoulder height, then bind off center neck stitches and complete shoulders separately.
Fronts: Work each front to match the back, shaping a gentle neck slope over the last 10 rows.
Sleeves: Cast on 22 stitches each. Work 6 rows in garter at the cuff. Continue in stockinette, increasing 1 stitch each side every 8th row until you have 30 stitches. Work to desired length so sleeves finish around wrist level on the bunny.
Sew sleeves in place. Join side seams and sleeve seams. Add a neat knitted cord or crochet-free chain substitute at the neckline if desired, but the sample cardigan remains open without closure.
The cardigan hem and cuff edges have a tiny decorative picot-like softness in the image. To imitate that effect, use a slightly loose bind-off or work one round of eyelet edging before finishing.
Shoes
The shoes are integrated visually with the feet, but a separate slipper layer creates the defined upper line seen in the image. Make 2.
Cast on 16 stitches in ivory. Work 8 rows stockinette. Pick up stitches around to form a small slipper. Knit 6 rounds. On the instep section, work short rows over the center 8 stitches for 4 turns to build the curved top. Continue around all stitches for 4 more rounds.
Decrease at each side of the toe every other round 3 times. Bind off and sew over the lower foot, keeping the top opening smooth and oval. The slippers should look soft and fitted, not chunky.
Drawstring Floral Bag
Using ivory, cast on 24 stitches and join in the round. Work 20 rounds in stockinette. On rounds 10 to 16, add a tiny front floral motif using green stems and blush hanging bells to echo the dress border.
Round 21: *yo, k2tog; rep around for the drawstring eyelets.
Rounds 22 to 24: knit.
Bind off loosely.
Make a narrow cord and thread it through the eyelet round. Pull closed lightly. The bag should be small and rounded, hanging from one arm without reaching below the skirt hem.
Bell Flowers
Make 3 separate hanging bells in ivory with green stems.
For each flower, cast on 18 stitches in ivory and join. Work 4 rounds. Then decrease evenly to 12 stitches. Work 4 rounds. Decrease to 6 stitches and stuff very lightly if desired to hold shape. Bind off.
For the stem, make a green i-cord about 2 inches long. Bend into a slight hook at the top. Sew the flower bell to the stem. Arrange 2 flowers together and leave 1 separate, matching the scattered look in the image.
Bouquet
The bouquet contains several small pale blush blossoms with green leaves and wrapped stems. Make 5 flowers and 4 leaves.
Flower: Cast on 5 stitches in blush. Work one tiny petal by knitting 3 short rows with a central increase, then bind off. Repeat from the same center for 5 petals, or make simple gathered flowers if preferred. Add a yellow center knot.
Leaves: Cast on 3 stitches in green. Increase to 7 stitches, work 2 rows, then decrease back to 3 and bind off.
Make thin green cords for stems. Attach blossoms and leaves, gather them together, and wrap the lower stems with ivory yarn. The bouquet should sit beside the bunny and look loose, natural, and hand-tied.
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Small Folded Cloth
Using ivory, cast on 12 stitches. Work 14 rows in seed stitch or garter with a tiny eyelet border on one edge. Bind off. Fold once into a neat rectangle and tack lightly so it holds the folded shape. This small piece acts as a tiny handkerchief or cloth accessory beside the bunny.
Robin Companion
The bird is small, round, and softly posed, with a rust breast, white face area, brown back and wings, tiny legs, and a miniature knitted bonnet and cardigan. This adds a storybook detail to the full set.
Bird Body
Using rust, cast on 6 stitches and join in the round. Increase evenly to 24 stitches over several rounds. Work lower front in rust and upper back in brown using simple color blocking. Add a small white wedge at the face and belly edge.
When body is plump and egg-shaped, decrease gradually and stuff firmly enough to hold shape. The bird should remain smaller than the bunny’s foot.
Wings Make 2
Cast on 8 stitches in brown. Work 2 rows. Increase to 12 stitches, work 4 rows, then decrease to a point. Sew to the sides angled slightly downward.
Tail
Cast on 6 stitches in brown. Work 4 rows, increasing to 10 stitches, then decrease back to 4. Sew to the back with a slight upward angle.
Beak and Legs
Embroider a tiny yellow-orange beak. For legs, use brown thread and make two thin legs with small three-prong feet. The bird should be able to lean naturally rather than stand rigidly.
Bird Bonnet and Cardigan
Make a very small white bonnet cap with a face opening and short ties. Add a little brown cardigan worked flat in one piece with tiny sleeves. Keep all finishing simple and delicate so the bird remains charming rather than bulky.
Assembly
- Sew the legs and body firmly if any openings remain.
- Attach the head centered on the neck.
- Sew arms at shoulder line with a soft downward angle.
- Dress the bunny in the completed dress.
- Add the cardigan and smooth it so the center front dress panel remains visible.
- Fit the bonnet over the head and tie under the chin.
- Check ear symmetry before final stitches are secured.
- Add shoes and arrange accessories around the finished doll.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
Once the bonnet is tied, adjust the face opening so it frames the cheeks evenly. Recheck the eye placement before knotting embroidery threads permanently. The face should look calm, sweet, and slightly thoughtful.
Steam very lightly from a distance if needed, but avoid flattening the stuffed areas. Shape the ears with your fingers so both curve gently upward and outward. Arrange the cardigan fronts open and smooth the skirt so the flower border sits evenly around the hem.
Care Notes
Handle the doll as an heirloom piece. Gentle display use is ideal. If the doll is intended for frequent handling, secure all sewn details with extra finishing stitches and weave in yarn tails deeply.
Store the accessories together so none of the smaller items are lost. The bell flowers, bouquet, cloth, and bird are all part of the visual story and help the finished set match the design completely.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head: round, smooth, and centered
- Face: tiny slanted eyes and small embroidered mouth
- Bonnet: snug fit, rolled face edge, side petals, tied cords
- Ears: upright with blush inner lining
- Dress: textured center panel, eyelets, hanging floral border
- Cardigan: waist length and open front
- Shoes: soft oval uppers visible
- Accessories: bag, bells, bouquet, cloth, and robin included
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Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean only whenever possible. Use a lightly damp cloth and press gently rather than rubbing. Do not soak the stuffed bunny unless absolutely necessary, since heavy washing can distort shaping and soften the crisp finish of the garments.
If full cleaning is required, hand wash briefly in cool water with a wool-safe cleanser. Press out moisture in a towel, reshape every piece, and dry flat away from direct sun. Stuffed parts may take longer to dry, so allow complete drying before storage.
Store in a breathable cotton bag or on a clean shelf away from moisture, dust, and strong sunlight. Keep moth protection nearby if using wool yarns. Avoid hanging the bunny by the bonnet ties or bag cord, since that can stretch the knitted fabric over time.
