Poppyseed Meadow-Smock Bunny – Knitting

This gentle bunny set is designed to capture the soft heirloom charm of a collectible stuffed rabbit, complete with a bonnet, smocked dress, ballet-style shoes, a tiny mouse friend, a satchel, a flower bouquet, and a small gathering basket. The finished set has the sweet appeal of boutique nursery decor, handmade plush toys, spring gift ideas, and artisan knitted dolls often searched by shoppers looking for baby shower gifts, Easter bunny decor, woodland nursery accessories, and handmade stuffed animal patterns. Every piece is shaped to echo the image closely, with rounded proportions, muted natural colors, and delicate finishing details.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Main bunny yarn: light fingering to fingering weight yarn in a pale mushroom-beige for head, body, arms, legs, and ears.
• Dress yarn: fingering weight yarn in soft cream for skirt and a warm butter-beige for sleeves and upper bodice.
• Bonnet yarn: fingering weight yarn in soft cream.
• Shoe yarn: fingering weight yarn in honey beige.
• Mouse yarn: pale taupe, cream, and dusty pink scraps.
• Flowers: scraps in dusty mauve, sage, soft cream, and muted green.
• Embroidery thread: black for eyes, dark brown for nose and mouth, dusty rose and deep berry-red for poppyseed buds on the skirt, pale green for tiny stems if desired.
• Ribbon: narrow cream ribbon for the bunny bonnet ties.
• Optional cord: soft beige cord or I-cord for the mouse hood tie and small accessories.
• Stuffing: soft toy stuffing.
• Needles: 2.25 mm and 2.75 mm double-pointed needles or preferred method for small circumference knitting.
• Straight or circular needles: 2.75 mm for flat garment pieces where preferred.
• Tapestry needle: for seaming and embroidery.
• Stitch markers, scrap yarn, scissors.
• Optional weighted pellets: tiny amount for the base if you want the bunny to sit with more substance.
• One tiny button: for the satchel flap.

Finished Size

The main bunny is designed to be approximately 11 to 13 inches tall when seated, measured from the top of the bonnet to the bottoms of the shoes. The body is softly stuffed and slightly pear-shaped, with a large rounded head, narrow shoulders, slim hanging legs, and short tapered arms.

The mouse companion is about 4 to 5 inches tall. The satchel is sized to sit just beside the bunny. The flower bouquet is a small hand-sized cluster, and the basket is tiny, low, and round.

Gauge and Style Notes

Gauge matters here. The fabric in the image is firm, smooth, and evenly worked, with stitches fine enough to hide stuffing. Choose a needle size that gives you a dense fabric. If stuffing shows through, go down a needle size.

• Main bunny fabric: smooth stockinette worked tightly.
• Bonnet edging: textured ridges created with garter stitch.
• Dress bodice: small repeated gathered texture resembling a neat hand-smocked or honeycomb effect.
• Dress skirt: plain stockinette with embroidered scattered poppyseed motifs.
• Shoes: smooth stockinette with embroidered or applied crossover straps.

The head is noticeably larger than the torso width at the shoulders, but the torso extends lower and fuller through the dress. The ears are long, soft, and floppy, falling beside the cheeks instead of standing upright.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• Kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• K2tog = knit 2 together
• SSK = slip, slip, knit
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Rep = repeat
• Rnd = round
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• BO = bind off
• M1 = make 1 increase
• pm = place marker
• sm = slip marker

Construction Overview

This set is made in several separate pieces. The bunny is worked as a classic soft toy with head, torso, arms, legs, and ears all made individually, stuffed, and sewn together. The face is embroidered after shaping and stuffing are complete.

The bonnet and dress are made separately so they sit like real clothing. The shoes are worked as fitted foot coverings. The mouse, satchel, bouquet, and basket are also separate pieces.

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Main Bunny Head

The head in the image is broad, smooth, and almost spherical, but slightly flatter where it joins the neck. The cheeks are full and the muzzle is softly defined with embroidery rather than heavy sculpting.

1. Using pale mushroom-beige yarn and small needles, CO 8 sts. Divide evenly across needles if working in the round. Join carefully.
2. Rnd 1: Knit.
3. Rnd 2: Kfb in every stitch. 16 sts.
4. Rnd 3: Knit.
5. Rnd 4: K1, Kfb around. 24 sts.
6. Rnd 5: Knit.
7. Rnd 6: K2, Kfb around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Knit.
9. Rnd 8: K3, Kfb around. 40 sts.
10. Rnd 9: Knit.
11. Rnd 10: K4, Kfb around. 48 sts.
12. Rnd 11: Knit.
13. Rnd 12: K5, Kfb around. 56 sts.
14. Rnd 13: Knit.
15. Rnd 14: K6, Kfb around. 64 sts.
16. Work even in St st for 20 to 24 rounds, until the head looks fully rounded and tall enough to match the image.

Begin shaping the upper head.

1. Rnd 1: K6, K2tog around. 56 sts.
2. Rnd 2: Knit.
3. Rnd 3: K5, K2tog around. 48 sts.
4. Rnd 4: Knit.
5. Rnd 5: K4, K2tog around. 40 sts.
6. Start stuffing firmly, especially through the crown and cheeks.
7. Rnd 6: K3, K2tog around. 32 sts.
8. Rnd 7: Knit.
9. Rnd 8: K2, K2tog around. 24 sts.

At this point the head should still feel round, not pointed. Add more stuffing. Shape it with your fingers so the face area remains smooth and the back of the head is gently full.

Create a short neck so the head sits correctly above the dress.

1. Work 4 rounds even on 24 sts.
2. On the next round, decrease evenly to 18 sts if you want a narrower neck.
3. Work 4 more rounds even.
4. BO lightly, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Main Bunny Body

The body is hidden under the dress, but it still needs the correct shape. It should be softly pear-shaped with a modest shoulder area, fuller lower torso, and a flat seated base. Avoid a very cylindrical body, because the dress in the image falls from a rounded middle, not from a straight tube.

1. Using the same main yarn, CO 12 sts.
2. Join in the round.
3. Rnd 1: Knit.
4. Rnd 2: Kfb in every stitch. 24 sts.
5. Rnd 3: Knit.
6. Rnd 4: K3, Kfb around. 30 sts.
7. Rnd 5: Knit.
8. Rnd 6: K4, Kfb around. 36 sts.
9. Rnd 7: Knit.
10. Rnd 8: K5, Kfb around. 42 sts.
11. Work 10 rounds even.

This lower section forms the tummy and seated bottom. If you want more weight, add a tiny pouch of pellets wrapped securely in stuffing at the base.

1. Next round: K5, K2tog around. 36 sts.
2. Work 4 rounds even.
3. Next round: K4, K2tog around. 30 sts.
4. Work 6 rounds even.
5. Next round: K3, K2tog around. 24 sts.
6. Work 6 rounds even for upper torso.
7. BO, leaving a long tail.

Stuff the body firmly at the bottom and more lightly toward the top. The top should stay compressible so the head can tilt naturally forward just a little, as in the image.

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Legs

The bunny legs are long, slim, and straight, emerging below the dress hem. They are not bent at the knee. The visible portion is a pale knitted leg ending in a separate shoe.

Make 2.

1. Using main yarn, CO 12 sts and join in the round.
2. Work 20 to 24 rounds in St st for a slim lower leg.
3. Stuff very lightly as you go, or leave mostly unstuffed for a soft dangling effect.
4. On the final round, increase to 14 sts if needed to fit the shoe opening.
5. Leave live stitches or BO loosely depending on whether you prefer to sew the shoes on separately.

The legs in the image hang neatly and evenly. They should be identical in length. Before finishing, measure both carefully.

Arms

The arms are short and tapered, slightly fuller at the hand end and narrowing toward the shoulder. They hang beside the dress and do not extend below the skirt.

Make 2.

1. Using main yarn, CO 10 sts and join in the round.
2. Work 4 rounds even.
3. Increase 2 sts evenly. 12 sts.
4. Work 8 rounds even.
5. Decrease 2 sts evenly back to 10 sts.
6. Work 6 more rounds.
7. Stuff lightly, mostly at the lower half.
8. Flatten top and BO. Leave long tail for sewing.

Do not overstuff the arms. In the image, they are soft and relaxed, not stiff.

Ears

The ears are one of the most important visual features. They are medium-long, narrow at the top, slightly wider through the middle, and rounded at the tips. They drape straight down from the sides of the bonnet and head.

Make 2.

1. Using main yarn, CO 8 sts.
2. Work flat in St st, slipping the first stitch of each row for neat edges if desired.
3. Row 1: Knit.
4. Row 2: Purl.
5. Row 3: K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1. 10 sts.
6. Row 4: Purl.
7. Row 5: Knit.
8. Row 6: Purl.
9. Row 7: K1, M1, knit to last stitch, M1, K1. 12 sts.
10. Continue straight for 18 to 22 rows.

Shape tip:

1. Row 1: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
2. Row 2: Purl.
3. Rep these 2 rows until 6 sts remain.
4. Row next: K1, SSK, K2tog, K1. 4 sts.
5. Row next: Purl.
6. Row next: K2tog twice. 2 sts.
7. Cut yarn and draw through.

Lightly steam or block the ears flat. Do not stuff. Fold the cast-on edge slightly when sewing so the ears curve naturally downward.

Facial Shaping and Embroidery Placement

Before joining the head, mark the face. The eyes in the image are tiny, dark, oval French-knot-like points placed wide apart, slightly above center. The nose is a narrow stitched triangle with a soft vertical line and small split mouth.

• Eyes: place them about 8 to 10 stitches apart, centered horizontally.
• Nose: place 5 to 6 rows below eye line.
• Mouth: a short straight or slightly curved line down, then two tiny angled stitches.
• Muzzle shaping: use a few soft tension stitches under the eyes toward the nose if needed, but keep the face gentle.

The expression should be quiet and sweet. Avoid large eyes or a smiling mouth, because the image shows a calm heirloom style face.

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Assembly of Bunny Base

1. Sew the body opening closed if needed.
2. Attach the legs evenly to the lower front underside of the torso so they hang straight from under the dress.
3. Attach the arms at shoulder height, angled slightly downward.
4. Sew the head firmly to the body with the face centered.
5. Attach ears high on the head sides, but slightly toward the back so the bonnet can sit over them naturally.

Set the bunny on a table as you assemble. Keep checking the silhouette. The head should look large and centered, the arms slim, and the legs long enough to show below the dress.

Bonnet

The bonnet is soft cream with a smooth crown and a garter-textured face border that frames the head. It sits low over the forehead and extends around the sides, with ties under the chin.

1. Using cream yarn, CO 56 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in garter stitch for the front brim edge.
3. Change to St st and work 14 rows straight.
4. Now shape the crown by dividing the stitches into 3 sections: 18, 20, 18.
5. Work short-row-style or classic bonnet decreases as follows.

Simple bonnet shaping method:

1. Row 1 RS: Knit 37, turn.
2. Row 2 WS: Purl 17, turn.
3. Row 3: Knit 34, turn.
4. Row 4: Purl 14, turn.
5. Continue in this way, taking 3 fewer stitches at each side until the center panel is clearly formed.

Alternative neat shaping method for those who prefer seaming:

• Work a rectangle for the crown depth.
• Gather the back edge lightly and seam to create a rounded bonnet.

To match the image closely, the bonnet must not be sharply pointed. It should be softly rounded on top and roomy enough to cover the head without flattening it.

Finish the lower edges with 4 more garter rows if picked up later. Thread cream ribbon through the lower side edge stitches or sew ribbon ties directly to the bonnet corners.

The ties should be long enough to form a soft bow under the chin with two trailing ribbon ends falling onto the upper bodice.

Dress Overview

The dress is the heart of the outfit. It has a warm beige upper section with full sleeves and a textured smocked bodice, then a cream skirt scattered with tiny red-and-dark-seed motifs. The waist is softly gathered. The shape is rounded and roomy, not fitted.

The easiest way to match the image is to make the dress in separate sections: sleeves, upper bodice, and skirt joined together, then finish the neckline with a neat opening wide enough for the bunny head.

Sleeves

Make 2 using butter-beige yarn.

1. CO 22 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in K1, P1 rib for the cuff.
3. Increase evenly to 28 sts.
4. Work in St st for 18 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each side every 6th row 3 times. 34 sts.
5. The sleeve should look softly puffed, especially at the upper section.
6. BO loosely.

Gather the top edge slightly when sewing into the bodice. The cuffs in the image are plain and gentle, not frilly.

Smocked Bodice Front and Back

Use butter-beige yarn. Make 1 front and 1 back. The bodice is short because the skirt begins high, just under the textured section.

Front:

1. CO 44 sts.
2. Work 4 rows St st.
3. Begin textured pattern over center area.

Small Smocked Texture Pattern

This texture should look compact and delicate. A simple gathered loop effect can be made with a repeated knit-purl structure.

1. Row 1 RS: K2, P1, K1 across to last 2 sts, K2.
2. Row 2 WS: P2, K1, P1 across to last 2 sts, P2.
3. Row 3 RS: K2, K2tog but leave stitches on needle, knit first stitch again, then slip both off, repeat across, K2.
4. Row 4 WS: Purl.
5. Rep these 4 rows 5 to 7 times, depending on desired bodice depth.

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If you prefer, you may substitute a tiny honeycomb or smocking stitch pattern that produces a similarly gathered effect. The important part is the visual impression: closely spaced vertical gathered texture across the chest.

After the textured section reaches the depth shown in the image, shape armholes lightly.

1. BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
2. Decrease 1 stitch each side every other row twice.
3. Work straight until front bodice height is sufficient.
4. Shape a shallow neckline.

Back:

1. Work as front but keep neckline higher and add a back opening of 1 to 2 inches so the dress can be put on easily.
2. Finish each back side separately after splitting for the opening.

Skirt

Using cream yarn, CO enough stitches to create a full skirt. For most gauges, 90 to 110 stitches works well.

1. CO 100 sts.
2. Work in St st for the desired skirt length, approximately long enough to reach below the bunny knees when worn.
3. The skirt in the image falls in a rounded A-line shape and is not extremely gathered, so avoid too much bulk.
4. Work 4 rows in garter stitch for the hem or simply allow the stockinette hem to roll minimally if your yarn behaves well. A small firm hem is usually best.

At the top of the skirt, decrease or gather evenly until it matches the lower edge of the bodice front and back combined.

Sew the skirt to the bodice pieces. The join should sit just beneath the textured section and create the look of a softly gathered empire waist.

Poppyseed Bud Embroidery on Skirt

This is one of the defining details in the image. The cream skirt is scattered with tiny red bud-like stitches, each with a darker accent that makes the motif look like a miniature poppyseed flower bud.

• Use dusty rose or muted berry-red embroidery thread.
• Add tiny seed stitches or short satin stitches, each about 2 to 3 knitted rows tall.
• Add a small dark brown or deep plum stitch at the base or side of each red bud.
• Space motifs evenly but not rigidly. They should feel scattered and organic.
• Concentrate on the center and lower two-thirds of the skirt.

Do not make the motifs too large. They are delicate specks in the image, not full flowers.

Neckline Finish and Dress Closure

Pick up stitches around the neckline and work 3 to 4 rows in neat edging, either garter or a very soft rib. Keep the neckline modest and rounded. The bonnet ribbon and upper smocking should remain visible, so the dress neckline must not rise too high.

At the back opening, add tiny loops and buttons, or sew hidden snaps. The closure should sit flat. Once worn, the dress should appear seamless from the front.

Shoes

The shoes are soft honey-beige ballet-style slippers with crisscross ankle straps. They cover the feet neatly and have rounded toes.

Make 2.

1. Using shoe yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in St st for sole length.
3. Pick up stitches around the sides if working three-dimensionally, or make two side pieces and seam.
4. Shape the toe by decreasing gently at the front over several rounds or rows until a rounded slipper front appears.
5. Leave the top open enough to show a little of the knitted foot/leg.

For a simple neat construction:

• Work an oval sole.
• Work an upper cap separately.
• Sew the upper onto the sole around the edge.

Create the crossover straps with one of the following:

• embroidered strands in matching yarn,
• narrow I-cords,
• applied knitted cords.

Cross the straps over the front ankle area exactly as in ballet shoes, then tack them to the sides and back. Keep the straps flat and delicate.

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Mouse Companion

The little mouse is pale and sweet, dressed in a tiny cream outfit with a hood that has rounded mouse ears. The face is simple with tiny eyes and a small pink nose. It sits beside the bunny and should feel like a gentle companion toy.

Mouse Head

1. Using pale taupe yarn, CO 6 sts and join.
2. Increase gradually to 24 or 28 sts to form a small rounded head.
3. Work even for several rounds.
4. Decrease symmetrically and stuff firmly.
5. Leave a short neck opening.

Mouse Body

1. Using pale taupe or cream, CO 10 sts.
2. Increase to 20 or 24 sts for a soft pear shape.
3. Work several rounds even.
4. Decrease lightly toward the neck.
5. Stuff gently.

Mouse Arms and Legs

• Arms are tiny tubes, lightly stuffed or unstuffed.
• Legs are slim and short, with dusty pink feet visible below the dress.

Mouse Hood with Ears

Using cream yarn:

1. CO enough stitches to fit around the mouse face.
2. Work a small bonnet-like hood with a rounded back.
3. Add 2 separate rounded ears in dusty pink-taupe and sew them to the top sides of the hood.
4. Add a narrow tie under the chin.

Mouse Dress

1. Use cream yarn.
2. Work a tiny gathered dress with simple upper body and softly flared skirt.
3. Keep the sleeves subtle or omit separate sleeves, depending on your preferred tiny construction.

Embroider tiny black eyes and a small pink triangular nose. The mouse expression should mirror the quiet softness of the bunny.

Satchel

The satchel beside the bunny is small, rounded, and soft taupe with a flap and one visible button. It resembles a miniature shoulder bag.

1. Using taupe yarn, CO 14 sts.
2. Work a flat rectangle long enough to fold into back, base, front, and flap.
3. Use garter stitch or very tight seed texture for structure.
4. Fold lower section up to form the pouch.
5. Sew side seams.
6. Shape a rounded flap by decreasing the corners slightly.
7. Sew on one tiny button at the front.
8. Add a narrow strap using I-cord or twisted cord.

The satchel should remain tiny and neat, not oversized.

Flower Bouquet

The bouquet includes muted mauve and cream blossoms with layered petals and soft green leaves. It sits low beside the satchel. This detail adds garden character and should be understated rather than bright.

Leaves

Make 4 to 6 in muted green.

1. CO 3 sts.
2. Increase at each side every RS row until 9 sts.
3. Work 2 rows even.
4. Decrease at each side every RS row until 3 sts.
5. BO.

Small Flowers

Make several in cream and mauve.

1. CO 20 sts loosely.
2. Work one row purl on WS.
3. Next row: K2tog, yo across for a delicate petal eyelet effect if desired.
4. Work one more row.
5. Gather tightly to form a rosette.

For fuller layered flowers, make two rosettes in different sizes and stack them. Add a pale green or cream knot in the center. Sew leaves behind the flowers and tie the stems together with thread.

Tiny Basket

The basket on the right is low, round, and warm brown, with a curved handle and tiny dark contents inside.

1. Using brown yarn, CO 6 sts and join.
2. Increase evenly to 18 sts for the base.
3. Work several rounds even through the back loop only on one round to create a base edge if desired.
4. Continue 4 to 6 rounds for shallow sides.
5. BO firmly.
6. Create a handle with a short I-cord and sew to opposite sides.

For the contents, place a few tiny dark French knots, bead-like stitches, or very small felted bits inside to suggest gathered seeds or berries.

Dressing and Styling the Bunny

Put the dress on first and close the back neatly. Slide on the shoes and tack them in place if the bunny is meant for display. Place the bonnet on the head so the front garter edge frames the face in a soft oval.

Tie the ribbon in a small bow under the chin. The tails should hang down over the bodice. Do not make the bow too large. In the image, it is elegant and understated.

Position the mouse, satchel, bouquet, and basket close to the bunny for the full storybook arrangement.

Color Placement Notes

• Bunny skin/fur: pale mushroom-beige.
• Bonnet: creamy ivory.
• Upper dress and sleeves: warm butter-beige.
• Skirt: soft cream with muted berry bud embroidery.
• Shoes: honey beige.
• Mouse: taupe, cream, and dusty pink.
• Accessories: taupe, sage, mauve, cream, and warm brown.

The image is very soft and natural in palette. Avoid bright white or harsh red. Muted tones will bring the set much closer to the photographed look.

Proportion Check

• Head: large and round, visually dominant.
• Ears: long enough to hang beside the cheeks.
• Body: hidden under the dress but softly full.
• Dress length: below the knees, leaving the lower legs visible.
• Sleeves: full and slightly puffed.
• Shoes: rounded and slim, not chunky.
• Mouse: clearly smaller, around one-third the bunny height.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Once all pieces are complete, check the bunny from the front and both side views before sewing permanently. The face should sit centered inside the bonnet opening, with the ears falling just outside the cheek line.

Embroider the eyes first, then the nose, then the mouth. If needed, lightly shape the muzzle with a few hidden tension stitches. Add the dress, then the shoes, then the bonnet, and only after that place the accessories so the whole arrangement feels balanced.

Care Notes

This knitted set is best treated as a display-quality soft toy. Gentle handling will help preserve the smooth facial embroidery, the bonnet shape, and the tiny accessory details.

Store it away from direct sunlight and high humidity. If gifting to a child, secure all small stitched details very firmly and consider simplifying the smallest accessories.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both legs exactly the same length?
• Do the ears hang evenly from both sides of the head?
• Is the face centered and calm-looking?
• Does the bonnet frame the face without covering the eyes?
• Does the dress sit high with visible textured bodice detail?
• Are the skirt motifs small and evenly scattered?
• Do the shoe straps cross neatly and match each other?
• Are the mouse, satchel, flowers, and basket scaled correctly?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only where needed. Avoid soaking, especially because stuffing, embroidery, and accessory shaping can distort if saturated.

If dust collects, use a clean soft brush and work gently across the knitted surface. For long-term storage, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and keep it in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and flatten the bonnet and dress texture.