Hydrangea Pudding-Lane Bunny – Knitting

This charming knitted bunny is designed as a soft heirloom-style doll with a pale blue dress, a matching capelet, a sage beret, a tiny crossbody bag, cream shoes, and blooming hydrangea details. It has the sweet look of a collectible stuffed bunny, nursery decor piece, handmade gift, and seasonal keepsake all in one. The small mouse friend, bouquet, and handkerchief complete the scene and make the finished set feel especially giftable for baby shower gifting, Easter basket ideas, boutique toy lovers, and handmade doll shoppers.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Materials

• Light fingering or true 4-ply yarn for the bunny body in warm pale cream
• Light fingering or 4-ply yarn in dusty sky blue for the dress, capelet, and bag
• Light fingering or 4-ply yarn in soft sage green for the beret, leaves, and shoe trims
• Small amounts of lavender, pink, and periwinkle blue for hydrangea clusters
• Small amount of medium taupe-gray for the mouse body
• Small amount of warm brown for the mouse jacket
• Tiny amount of blush pink for mouse nose and optional inner flower accents
• 2.25 mm and 2.75 mm knitting needles
• Set of double-pointed needles in matching sizes if preferred for narrow pieces
• Tapestry needle
• Black embroidery thread or very small black safety eyes
• Toy stuffing
• Thin cardboard or plastic canvas for optional sole inserts
• Small buttons for shoe straps and optional mouse jacket detail
• Snap, hidden stitch, or tiny button for the bag flap if desired
• Fine sewing thread matching yarn shades

Yarn Colors Used for the Look in the Image

• Bunny: pale oatmeal cream
• Dress and capelet: faded hydrangea blue
• Beret and shoe accents: muted mossy sage
• Hydrangea flowers: soft pink, light lilac, powder blue
• Mouse: cool gray body with a warm camel-brown jacket

Finished Size

The bunny is approximately 15 to 17 inches tall when seated, with a large rounded head, long hanging ears, a plump lower body, and straight softly stuffed legs. The mouse is about 3 1/2 to 4 inches tall. The bouquet fits neatly into the bunny’s hand.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical if you keep your fabric firm enough to hold stuffing. The knitted fabric in the image is smooth, even, and dense, with little stitch spread. Use a needle size that gives a tidy stockinette fabric with no visible holes.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• Garter = knit every row
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase 1 stitch
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• BO = bind off
• rep = repeat

Design Notes Before You Begin

This set is built from simple shapes and careful finishing. The bunny’s body and head are worked as separate pieces, then joined. The sweetness of the finished face comes from restrained shaping, very small eyes, a neat Y-shaped nose and mouth, and low, softly attached ears.

The image shows a rounded forehead, narrow muzzle, and gently tapered chin. The dress sits loosely over the body, not tightly fitted. The capelet ends just above the waist. The beret is roomy and soft, with a leaf band placed around the lower edge.

The floral hem is the visual center of the outfit. The hydrangea clusters should look padded and textured, not flat. Make each cluster as a small bobbled flower unit and stitch them in layered groups near the lower dress hem.

The shoes are cream with sage straps and textured sage toe bands. They look like classic Mary Janes. Keep the leg stuffing light so the feet look slightly weighty and rounded, not stiff or blocky.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Bunny Body

Work the body in pale cream. The body is pear-shaped, widest through the lower half, with a gentle narrowing at the neck. Work two identical body pieces flat from the bottom upward.

1. CO 34 sts.
2. Work 6 rows in St st, beginning with a P row.
3. Shape the lower body by increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times. You will have 46 sts.
4. Work straight for 18 rows in St st.
5. To round the tummy, increase 1 stitch at each end of the next 2 RS rows. You will have 50 sts.
6. Work 10 rows straight.
7. Shape the upper body and neck: k2tog at each end of every RS row 8 times. You will have 34 sts.
8. Work 6 rows straight.
9. BO loosely.

Place the two body pieces together with RS facing out. Mattress stitch the sides, leaving the neck open. Stuff the lower half firmly and the upper torso slightly less firmly. The silhouette should be softly full, with the greatest width sitting low, like the image.

Bunny Head

The head is large compared with the body and almost oval, but it narrows slightly toward the chin. Work two head pieces flat in pale cream.

1. CO 20 sts.
2. Work 4 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 8 times. You will have 36 sts.
4. Work 10 rows straight.
5. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 3 times. You will have 42 sts.
6. Work 12 rows straight.
7. Shape the top and chin gently. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 8 times. You will have 26 sts.
8. Work 4 rows straight.
9. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 5 times. You will have 16 sts.
10. BO.

Sew the head pieces together, leaving the lower edge open. Stuff very firmly, especially through the cheeks and forehead. Shape by hand as you stuff so the face remains broad and smooth. Do not overstuff the chin.

To create the gentle muzzle seen in the image, run a horizontal gathering thread across the lower face about one-third up from the chin. Draw it in very lightly. This adds the soft forward face plane without making a sharp snout.

Legs

The bunny has long, straight legs in pale cream. They are simple tubes that narrow slightly into the ankles. Make two.

1. CO 16 sts.
2. Work 28 rows in St st.
3. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Repeat every 8th row 2 more times. You will have 10 sts.
4. Work 10 rows straight.
5. BO.

Seam each leg into a tube. Stuff lightly through most of the leg and a little more firmly at the ankle so the shoe sits well. The legs should remain soft and slightly bendable, matching the relaxed seated look.

Arms

The arms are slim and softly curved. Make two in pale cream.

1. CO 14 sts.
2. Work 22 rows in St st.
3. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row, then every 6th row twice more. You will have 8 sts.
4. Work 6 rows straight.
5. BO.

Seam and stuff lightly. Flatten the upper arm slightly before sewing to the body. This helps the arms rest naturally downward, as in the image, rather than sticking out.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Ears

The ears are long, narrow, and gently rounded at the ends. They hang from low side points just under the beret. Make four pieces in pale cream, then pair them into two ears for a clean finish.

1. CO 10 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Repeat every 8th row 3 more times. You will have 18 sts.
4. Work 26 rows straight.
5. Shape the tip by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 6 times. You will have 6 sts.
6. BO.

Join two ear pieces together around the edge, leaving the lower edge open. Do not stuff. Steam lightly if needed so they hang smoothly. Attach them low on the head, with the inner edge beginning slightly behind the eye line.

Shoes

The shoes are an important detail. They are cream with mossy sage toe borders, soles, and narrow straps. Make two identical shoes. Each shoe is worked from the sole upward, then finished with a strap.

Sole and Lower Shoe

1. Using sage, CO 8 sts.
2. Knit 2 rows.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 4 times. You will have 16 sts.
4. Knit 6 rows straight in garter.
5. BO.

Make a second sole piece for each shoe if you want a firmer base. Sew the two sole layers together or add a thin insert inside later.

Upper Foot

1. Using cream, CO 16 sts.
2. Work 10 rows in St st.
3. Shape the toe by working k2tog at each end of every RS row 4 times. You will have 8 sts.
4. Work 4 rows straight.
5. BO.

Sew the cream upper to the sage sole, easing the toe smoothly. Leave the top opening shaped like a rounded Mary Jane opening. The shoe should cover the foot fully but leave the front ankle visible.

Strap

1. Using sage, CO 3 sts.
2. Knit 18 to 22 rows, or to fit across the instep.
3. BO.

Sew one end to the inner side of the shoe opening. Wrap the strap across the foot and secure the outer end with a tiny button or stitched button detail. This should match the narrow strap shown in the image.

Dress

The dress is soft hydrangea blue with a gently flared skirt and a plain bodice. The lower hem has a small clean border and is decorated afterward with applied flower clusters and leaves. Work in one piece from hem to neckline, flat or in the round if preferred.

1. CO 72 sts in blue.
2. Work 6 rows in garter for the hem border.
3. Change to St st and work 18 rows straight.
4. Decrease evenly across the next RS row to 64 sts.
5. Work 10 rows straight.
6. Decrease evenly across the next RS row to 56 sts.
7. Work 10 rows straight.
8. Divide for front and back if working flat, or mark sides if working in the round.
9. Shape armholes by binding off 3 sts at each side once.
10. Work straight for 8 rows.
11. Shape neckline softly. Bind off the center 12 sts and finish each shoulder separately.
12. At neck edge, decrease 1 stitch every RS row 3 times.
13. Work 2 rows straight and BO shoulders.

The dress should fit loosely around the bunny, with the skirt widening softly and falling over the lap. It should not cling to the body. Keep the neckline modest because the capelet sits over it.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Sew the shoulder seams and side seams. Slip the dress onto the bunny before attaching the arms permanently if you want easier dressing. A hidden back opening with snaps also works well.

Hydrangea Hem Motifs

The hydrangea border consists of several flower heads and separate leaves stitched around the front lower skirt. Place most of the clusters along the front hem and let them drift slightly toward one side, matching the image’s asymmetrical garden feel.

Small Flower Petal Nub

1. Using pink, blue, or lavender, CO 3 sts.
2. Kfb, K1, kfb. You will have 5 sts.
3. Purl 1 row.
4. K2tog, K1, ssk. You will have 3 sts.
5. BO.

Make many of these tiny petal nubs. Fold and stitch 4 or 5 together at the base to create one miniature flower. Then gather 5 to 7 miniature flowers into one hydrangea head.

For the image look, make at least 6 full flower heads for the dress hem. Use a mix of pale blue, pink, and lavender. Keep some clusters mostly blue, some mixed pink and lavender, and one smaller mixed cluster for balance.

Leaves

1. Using sage, CO 3 sts.
2. Kfb, K1, kfb. You will have 5 sts.
3. Purl 1 row.
4. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. You will have 7 sts.
5. Purl 1 row.
6. K3, make a centered vein by twisting the middle stitch, K3.
7. Purl 1 row.
8. K2tog, K3, ssk. You will have 5 sts.
9. Purl 1 row.
10. K2tog, K1, ssk. You will have 3 sts.
11. BO.

Make 10 to 12 leaves in different sizes by adjusting row count. Arrange them under and between the hydrangea heads. Angle several outward so the decoration looks organic and vine-like rather than evenly spaced.

Capelet

The short capelet is one of the sweetest features. It is pale blue, rounded at the front, and finished with a ruffled collar. The front edges meet near the top and separate softly toward the lower edge.

Main Capelet

1. CO 56 sts in blue.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Begin shaping the rounded cape by increasing 1 stitch at each end of every 6th row 4 times. You will have 64 sts.
4. Work straight until the piece measures from base of neck to just above the bunny waist.
5. Shape front opening by splitting at center and working each side separately.
6. On each front edge, decrease 1 stitch every 4th row 4 times to curve the front panel.
7. At neck edge, keep straight.
8. BO all sts.

Ruffled Collar

Pick up stitches evenly around the neck edge in blue. Work one row knit, then one increase row by knitting into front and back of every other stitch. Work 4 more rows in St st and BO loosely. Roll the collar outward slightly.

The collar in the image is soft and frilled, not stiff. Keep the ruffle shallow. Overly deep frills will hide the face and make the upper body look too bulky.

Neck Tie

1. CO 2 sts in blue.
2. Knit an i-cord or narrow garter strip for 10 to 12 inches.
3. BO.

Thread this through the neck edge just under the collar or sew it at each front neck edge. Tie a tiny relaxed bow or leave the ends hanging simply. In the image, the tie is subtle and soft.

Beret

The beret is sage green and generously rounded. It sits low on the head and slightly forward, covering the top of the forehead without hiding the eyes. Work it from the crown outward, then finish with a fitted band.

1. Using sage, CO 8 sts onto double-pointed needles or work flat in wedges if preferred.
2. Increase evenly every round until you have 64 sts.
3. Work 16 rounds in St st.
4. Decrease evenly to 52 sts.
5. Work 6 rounds straight.
6. Work 4 rounds of K1, P1 rib.
7. BO loosely.

📌Thank you for reading the article

If working flat, sew the seam invisibly and block lightly over a small bowl so the hat keeps a soft beret shape. It should puff above the band and tilt slightly.

Leaf Headband Trim

This trim circles the lower edge of the beret. It is made from several small sage leaves joined side by side. Make 7 to 9 small leaves using the leaf pattern above, but on a slightly smaller scale.

Stitch the leaves to the front half of the beret band so they overlap a little. Aim for the leaves to travel from one side of the face to the other, forming a delicate crown effect.

Crossbody Bag

The bag is pale blue, small, and softly rectangular with a rounded flap. It hangs from one shoulder and rests against the skirt front. Make one back piece, one front piece, one flap, and one strap.

Bag Body

1. CO 14 sts in blue.
2. Work 16 rows in St st.
3. Make two identical rectangles.
4. BO.

Flap

1. CO 14 sts in blue.
2. Work 6 rows in St st.
3. On the next and following RS rows, decrease 1 stitch at each end until 8 sts remain.
4. Work 2 rows straight.
5. BO.

Strap

1. CO 3 sts in blue.
2. Knit 45 to 55 rows, depending on desired drop.
3. BO.

Join the front and back bag pieces on three sides. Add a little stuffing only if you want a puffy look, but the image suggests a soft flat bag. Sew on the flap and attach the strap diagonally across the body.

Add a tiny pink flower and one green leaf to the flap as shown. Use a miniature hydrangea-style knot cluster, keeping it very small so it does not dominate the bag.

Hydrangea Bouquet

The bouquet in the bunny’s hand is a compact cluster with blue and pink flower heads and a few sage leaves. It should look rounded and plush, almost like a tiny pomander made of blossoms.

Make 3 small hydrangea heads in blue and 2 in pink using the same miniature flower method as the dress hem. Stitch them together into one rounded bunch. Add 2 or 3 leaves tucked underneath.

Wrap the base tightly with matching yarn and leave a short stem tail for sewing into the bunny’s hand. Position it in the left hand so it rests lightly on the bench or lap, similar to the image.

Mouse Companion

The tiny mouse has a round head, a smaller oval body, little ears, bead-like eyes, and a warm brown jacket. This piece adds storytelling charm, so keep it neat and simple rather than overcomplicated.

Mouse Body

1. Using gray, CO 14 sts.
2. Work 8 rows in St st.
3. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 3 times. You will have 20 sts.
4. Work 10 rows straight.
5. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 3 times. You will have 14 sts.
6. Work 6 rows straight.
7. BO.

Make two body pieces, seam, and stuff firmly enough to hold shape. The lower body should be slightly wider than the upper body. Keep the mouse small enough to sit beside the bunny shoe.

Mouse Head

1. Using gray, CO 12 sts.
2. Increase 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 4 times. You will have 20 sts.
3. Work 8 rows straight.
4. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every RS row 4 times.
5. BO.

📌Thank you for reading the article

Make two head pieces. Seam and stuff. Attach to the body with the face angled slightly upward. The mouse in the image has a shy upright stance, not a wide squat pose.

Mouse Ears, Arms, and Legs

• Ears: make 4 tiny gray circles or ovals, join in pairs, and sew high on the head
• Arms: knit 2 narrow tubes in gray, stuff lightly, and place at the body sides
• Legs: make 2 short gray tubes with slightly rounded feet
• Tail: optional short cord in gray or pink-gray, hidden behind the body if preferred

Mouse Jacket

The jacket is simple and cropped, in warm brown. It has tiny sleeves and a front opening. Work as one small flat piece, shaped into a shrug-like jacket.

1. CO 18 sts in brown.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Continue in St st for 6 rows.
4. Divide for fronts and back, shaping tiny arm openings if desired.
5. Work 6 more rows.
6. BO loosely.

Wrap and seam around the mouse torso. Add one or two tiny yellow embroidered buttons at the front. The jacket should look snug but not thick.

Handkerchief

The white handkerchief is a small square with a delicate border and one tiny embroidered flower. It sits under the mouse. This can be knitted or made from fabric, but a knitted version keeps the set fully handmade.

1. Using white, CO 20 sts.
2. Work 4 rows garter.
3. Work 12 rows in St st with 2 garter stitches at each edge.
4. Work 4 rows garter.
5. BO.

Steam flat. Embroider one tiny blue flower with a green stem in one corner. If desired, create a scalloped effect by making small blanket-style edge stitches with white sewing thread after blocking.

Face Embroidery

The bunny face is minimal and very soft. Place the eyes widely spaced and low enough to create the calm, childlike expression seen in the image. They should sit roughly halfway down the head, slightly above the muzzle shaping line.

• Use tiny black knots, beads, or small safety eyes for the eyes
• Embroider the nose with pale brown or medium taupe yarn
• Make a short vertical line down from the nose, then split it into a shallow Y for the mouth
• Keep all facial lines fine and centered

Do not add blush unless it is extremely faint. The original look is clean and restrained, with the softness coming from shape rather than heavy facial decoration.

Final Assembly

1. Sew the head to the body securely, shaping the neck so the head sits upright.
2. Attach the ears low at the side head seams.
3. Sew the legs to the lower body front so they hang straight when seated.
4. Attach the arms at shoulder level, angled gently downward.
5. Dress the bunny in the blue dress.
6. Add the capelet and tie it softly at the neck.
7. Place the beret slightly forward and tack it in place with a few hidden stitches.
8. Sew the bag strap diagonally from shoulder to hip.
9. Attach the bouquet to one hand.
10. Place the mouse beside the bunny and rest it on the handkerchief.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Check the proportions before closing every seam. The head should look larger than the torso, the ears should hang past the shoulder line, and the feet should look gently oversized. This balance is what gives the piece its storybook character.

When finishing the face, measure twice before placing the eyes. Even a difference of one stitch can change the expression. Keep the nose small, centered, and slightly lower than you first expect. The mouth should be short and delicate.

Arrange the floral hem after the dress is on the bunny. Pin the leaves and hydrangea heads first. Once the placement feels natural, sew every element down firmly with matching thread so the motifs stay neat during handling.

Care Notes

This set is best treated as a decorative knitted doll rather than a rough-play toy. Gentle handling will help the hat, bag, flowers, and mouse details remain crisp and attractive.

• Display away from strong direct sunlight
• Keep away from damp storage areas
• Lift the bunny from under the body, not by the ears or bag strap
• Store the bouquet and mouse together so the full set stays complete

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Head centered and firmly attached
• Ears even and hanging at matching height
• Dress hem flowers balanced across the front
• Capelet front curves matching
• Beret tilted softly and secured
• Bag hanging at natural hip level
• Shoe straps even and buttons secure
• Mouse scaled small beside the bunny
• Handkerchief pressed flat and clean

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean whenever possible using cool water, a soft cloth, and a very small amount of gentle wool wash. Press, do not rub, especially around the face embroidery and flower clusters.

If deeper cleaning is needed, hand wash only in cool water. Support the full piece with both hands, rinse gently, and roll in a towel to remove moisture. Reshape the head, ears, beret, dress, and bouquet before drying flat.

Do not hang the bunny to dry. The weight of damp stuffing can stretch the neck and limbs. Allow extra drying time for the body center, shoes, and mouse.

For long-term preservation, wrap the set in acid-free tissue and store it in a breathable cotton bag or archival box. Avoid vacuum bags, plastic bins with trapped humidity, and strongly scented storage products.