This elegant knitted bunny set is designed to match the picture as closely as possible, with a soft cream rabbit, blush beret, rose cardigan, pale dress with bold red flower borders, bright Mary Jane shoes, and a charming group of small knitted accessories. It has the look of a handmade heirloom bunny doll, a collectible nursery toy, and a thoughtful knitted gift for spring, birthdays, baby showers, or anyone who loves artisan stuffed animals and boutique-style soft toys.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Main bunny yarn: fingering or light sport weight yarn in soft cream.
- Dress yarn: very pale blush or blush-cream.
- Cardigan yarn: dusty rose.
- Shoes and flower yarn: deep red.
- Leaf yarn: medium leaf green.
- Beret accent yarn: same pale blush as the hat base, plus red, green, and a touch of yellow-cream for flower centers.
- Mini bear yarn: light tan, mint green, cream, red, green, and pale pink.
- Accessory yarn: warm beige for bag, tray, and fan handle.
- Needles: a size that gives a dense fabric suitable for toys. For most knitters this will be 2.25 mm to 3 mm double-pointed needles or magic loop.
- Stuffing: soft toy stuffing.
- Tapestry needle.
- Black embroidery thread or very thin black yarn for the eyes.
- Pink-beige or brown embroidery thread for the nose and mouth.
- Optional: small amount of felt or cardboard for stiffening the tray and fan if desired.
Finished Size
- Main bunny: approximately 13 to 15 inches tall from top of head to feet, not including ear length above the head because the ears fall downward.
- Mini bear companion: approximately 5 to 6 inches tall.
- Bag: about 2 1/2 inches tall.
- Fan: about 3 inches wide.
- Tray: about 3 inches wide.
Gauge and Fabric Notes
The fabric in the image is smooth, fine, and even, with no visible gaps in the stuffed areas. Use a needle size smaller than you would normally choose for garments. The body, head, arms, legs, and mini bear should all be knit firmly so the stuffing does not show through.
The outfit has a polished boutique look rather than a rustic one. Keep your tension steady, especially in the cardigan fronts, the dress hem motif area, the beret brim, and the tiny accessories. The smoother your stockinette, the closer the finished set will resemble the image.
Abbreviations
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- St st = stockinette stitch
- Kfb = knit into front and back of same stitch
- K2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- Ssk = slip, slip, knit
- Inc = increase 1 stitch in your preferred neat method
- Dec = decrease 1 stitch in your preferred neat method
- BOR = beginning of round
- Rep = repeat
Construction Overview
The main bunny is worked as separate legs, joined for the body, then shaped into a rounded torso and neck. The head is knitted separately and attached securely. The ears are long and softly flattened, then sewn low on the sides of the head so they drape straight down.
The dress is made separately and slipped onto the body before final neck closing or attached after body completion if you prefer a removable look. The cardigan is worked flat in pieces or as one flat garment with sleeves added. The beret is worked in the round and decorated after finishing.
The small accessories are essential to the look of the set. Do not skip them if you want the same visual effect. The beige bucket bag, ivory fan with red flower details, dessert tray, two loose flowers, and miniature tan bear in mint clothing all help create the parlor styling shown in the image.
Main Bunny Legs
Legs Make 2
Using cream, CO 18 stitches. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist. Work 18 rounds in St st for the lower leg. This section should look straight and tubular, with a slim proportion that matches the long, soft legs seen below the dress.
Begin shaping the upper thigh very gently so the legs stay slender. On the next round, increase 2 stitches evenly. Work 8 rounds even. Increase 2 stitches evenly again. Work 10 rounds even. You should now have a long leg that is only slightly fuller at the top than at the ankle.
Stuff the lower half of the leg firmly, but leave the top 1 1/2 inches lightly stuffed so the leg can sit nicely beneath the dress. Bind off the first leg or place it on waste yarn. Knit the second leg the same way, but do not break yarn at the end if you plan to join directly.
Main Bunny Body
Place both legs on the needles with the inner leg stitches adjacent. Join them by casting on 4 stitches between the legs at front, then 4 stitches between the legs at back as you continue the round. You now have the full body base. Mark the side points if helpful.
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Knit 6 rounds even. The lower body should look rounded but not bulky. The bunny in the image has a soft pear-shaped form hidden under the dress, so aim for a gentle widening through the hips rather than a wide seated base.
Increase 8 stitches evenly around the next round. Knit 8 rounds even. Increase 6 stitches evenly around the next round. Knit 10 rounds even. At this stage, stuff the joined leg area very carefully so there is no hollow gap where the legs meet.
Continue knitting the belly and torso with a smooth, lightly rounded shape. Work 10 more rounds even. If your bunny is becoming too wide, reduce by 2 to 4 stitches. If it is too narrow, add 2 stitches. Small adjustments are fine as long as the silhouette remains soft and balanced.
To shape the upper torso, decrease 6 stitches evenly on the next round. Work 6 rounds even. Decrease 6 stitches evenly again. Work 4 rounds even. Stuff the body firmly now, especially the belly and lower back. The finished shape should feel plump but not hard.
Work the neck: decrease evenly until you have a narrower neck opening that looks proportionate beneath the large head. Knit 5 to 6 rounds even for the neck tube. Bind off, leaving a long tail for sewing, or leave stitches live if you prefer grafting the head later.
Main Bunny Head
Using cream, CO 12 stitches and join in the round. Increase evenly on every other round until you reach a broad head circumference. The bunny in the image has a large, softly oval head, wider across the cheeks than the neck, with a smooth forehead and rounded muzzle.
A good shaping sequence is to increase by 6 stitches every other round several times, with plain rounds between, until the head width looks generous compared with the torso. Then work 16 to 20 rounds even. This produces the tall head depth needed for the sweet, calm expression in the picture.
Begin cheek and crown shaping very gradually. Decrease 6 stitches evenly, knit 2 rounds even, then repeat this decrease sequence until the top begins to close. Stop partway to stuff the head firmly. Add extra stuffing at the cheeks and front muzzle area, but do not overfill the top.
Before closing completely, pinch the lower front of the head gently and place a horizontal thread sculpting line if you want extra muzzle definition. The image shows a subtle, not exaggerated, muzzle. Finish decreasing until closed. Draw the opening tight and fasten securely.
Head Sculpting and Face Placement
The face is simple and refined. The eyes are tiny black vertical stitches placed wide apart, slightly above the midpoint of the head front. They are not round safety eyes in appearance. They look like short embroidered slits, giving the bunny a peaceful and classic expression.
Use black thread and make each eye 2 or 3 stitches long. Position them evenly, leaving a generous center space for the muzzle. The nose is a small inverted triangle or tiny filled V shape in a muted pink-beige or soft brown, placed low on the muzzle center.
From the base of the nose, embroider a short vertical line downward, then split into two delicate angled lines for the mouth. Keep the mouth small. The image shows a very modest expression, with no smiling curve extending far across the cheeks.
Ears Make 2
Using cream, CO 14 stitches and work flat in St st with a slipped first stitch for neat edges, or work in the round and seam later if that is your preference. The ears in the image are long, broad at the top attachment edge, and softly rounded at the tip.
Work 8 rows even. Then shape by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every 6th row until the ear is long and gently tapered. Continue until the remaining stitches form a rounded lower tip. Bind off. Make a second ear to match.
Lightly steam or block if needed so the ears lie flat. Fold the top edge of each ear just slightly before sewing to create the natural hang seen in the image. Attach the ears low on the sides of the head, beneath the beret line, so they fall straight down along the cheeks and shoulders.
Arms Make 2
Using cream, CO 16 stitches and join in the round. Work 8 rounds even for the paw and lower arm. Increase 2 stitches evenly. Work 16 more rounds even. The arms should be slim and softly stuffed, with no defined paws or fingers.
Near the top, decrease 2 stitches so the upper arm narrows slightly for easier joining. Stuff lightly, flatter than the legs. Close the top by grafting or sewing the opening flat. Sew the arms high on the body sides so they angle slightly downward, matching the relaxed posture in the image.
Dress
Skirt and Bodice
Using very pale blush, CO enough stitches to fit around the lower body comfortably with a little ease. Join in the round. Work a small hem edging first. A few rounds of garter or a turned hem both work well. The lower edge in the image looks tidy and gently weighted, not ruffled.
Work upward in St st for the skirt. The skirt is softly A-line, not gathered heavily. Increase a little through the lower half if needed, then keep the upper half straighter. The dress length should fall to just above the ankles so the red shoes remain fully visible.
At the lower skirt, place five large red flower motifs spaced evenly around the front half and sides. The center front flower is largest visually, with two flowers on each side. Each flower has green leaves beneath it. You may work these as stranded colorwork, duplicate stitch, or Swiss darning after knitting.
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For the closest look, use duplicate stitch over plain pale blush knitting. Make the flowers full and rounded, with layered petal shapes. The center front flower should sit slightly higher than the bottom edge. The side flowers should angle outward gently. Keep the leaves compact and medium green.
Continue upward to the waist. On the image, there is a faint gathered or slightly textured transition near the waistline. Create this by working a decrease round, then a plain round, then an increase round, or by making tiny evenly spaced tucks through sewing after knitting.
The bodice is plain, smooth, and close-fitting. Work the upper portion even until it reaches just below the underarms. The neckline is wide and softly rounded. Finish with a narrow rolled edge or a few neat rows that do not stand away from the body.
If you want the dress removable, bind off cleanly and leave small arm openings. If you prefer a fixed dress, sew it closed at the back after dressing the bunny. The image does not show a visible back closure, so a nearly invisible seam is ideal.
Flower Motif Notes
- Main flower color: deep red.
- Leaf color: leaf green.
- Flower count on dress front: five visible flowers.
- Placement: one center front, two to the left, two to the right.
- Scale: each flower should be large enough to be clearly seen from a distance.
- Style: rounded rose-like blooms with layered petals, not pointed daisies.
Cardigan
Using dusty rose, CO for the back. Work a short rib or textured hem, then continue in St st. Shape armholes gently. The cardigan in the image is cropped, ending above the waistline, with a clean open front and no visible buttons.
Make two fronts to match, each with a narrow front band worked as part of the piece or added later. The front edges appear slightly textured, which can be created with seed stitch, garter, or a tight rib. Keep this edging neat so it frames the dress well.
The sleeves are straight and three-quarter to bracelet length in appearance, ending around the wrist area of the bunny arms. Work each sleeve from cuff upward with a slight increase toward the upper arm. Set them in or sew them to the armhole openings with minimal bulk.
Assemble the cardigan carefully. The shoulders should sit naturally. The front opening should stay open and relaxed, not overlap. When worn, the cardigan should reveal the dress bodice and most of the skirt flower border. The color contrast between pale dress and rose cardigan is important to the set.
Beret
Using pale blush, CO for the brim and work a folded or ribbed brim section. The hat sits low and rounded on the bunny head, like a soft French beret. After the brim, increase generously and work several rounds even to form the puffed crown.
Then decrease gradually toward the top center. The beret should be wider than the head opening so it slouches softly, especially toward the upper left area as shown in the image. Do not make it too flat or too fitted. The charm lies in the soft rounded volume.
Decorate the beret after finishing. Embroider or applique two green leafy sprigs across the front upper area. Add one red flower with a pale yellow center on the upper right side. The leaves are stitched as small pointed pairs along a thin stem, delicate but still visible.
Attach the beret so the brim sits just above the eyes and ear attachment line. Let the crown puff slightly backward. The flower should rest toward the bunny’s right side when viewed from the front, matching the image composition.
Shoes Make 2
Using deep red, CO enough stitches to fit around the foot opening. Work each shoe as a slipper-style Mary Jane with a rounded toe. The toe section is full and smooth, covering the front of the foot completely.
After shaping the sole and upper, add a narrow strap across the instep, leaving a cream opening visible beneath. The image shows a distinct Mary Jane shape with the cream leg visible at the top opening and a red strap spanning across the front.
The shoes should be bright, tidy, and symmetrical. They are a key color accent at the bottom of the composition and visually connect with the red flowers in the dress and beret. Sew them firmly to the feet or leave removable if your foot shaping allows.
Beige Bucket Bag
Using warm beige, CO for a small flat circular or oval base. Increase to create a compact basket-like bottom. Then work upward without increasing to form straight sides. The bag in the image is softly cylindrical with a slight taper near the top.
Create a top flap or lid panel and a narrow strap. Add a tiny loop or button-like decorative knot at the front. The handle is short and curved. This bag should look structured but still knitted, with vertical stitch lines visible. Lightly stuff or line it if you want it to keep its shape.
Folding Fan
Using cream, work a half-circle fan piece flat. Start at the handle end with beige and increase outward into cream. Add several radiating beige lines from the handle area upward to suggest fan ribs. These can be duplicate stitch or surface embroidery.
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Along the upper cream portion, place five small red flower motifs spaced evenly from side to side. Each flower is tiny and simple. The fan handle should be beige and narrow at the base. Add a tiny pale accent knot where the handle meets the fan if you want a closer match.
Dessert Tray
Using warm beige, knit a small flat oval tray. Add a low raised edge around it and two short side handles. The tray in the image carries three visible sweets and two small cups. Keep the tray shallow and firm so the items sit on top without looking oversized.
The first dessert is a chocolate slice or cake square with a red berry on top. The second is a pale pink triangular pastry with a green garnish. The third is a cream-and-red pastry or mini cake with a bright red top accent. The cups are cream with red-topped details.
These items are tiny, so simple shapes work best. Knit or crochet tiny pads, fold them, and stitch them into shape. Use duplicate stitch or French-knot style wrapped yarn for berry details. Arrange the pieces on the tray before sewing them down permanently.
Loose Flowers
There are two small flower accents near the lower left area of the image and one larger red flower near the top left. Make one pale blush rosette with a green leaf, one small deep red flower with a pale center, and one larger layered deep red camellia-style flower with green leaves.
The larger loose flower should look full and sculpted, almost like a fabric corsage. Work a narrow strip, curl it into a spiral, and stitch securely, or make layered petal rounds and stack them. Add a pale yellow center. This piece helps echo the beret flower and balances the composition.
Mini Bear Companion
Body and Head
Using light tan, knit the mini bear starting from the legs or body base. The proportions are compact and childlike, with a rounded head and short body. The bear is smaller than the bunny by a large margin, roughly reaching the bunny’s knee height.
Work two short legs in the round, join for the body, and shape a small torso. The neck is short. The head is round with a gentle muzzle area. Unlike the bunny, the bear has a tiny dark nose and mouth embroidered into a simple teddy-bear face.
Embroider the eyes as small black dots or tiny stitches. Add a small brown or dark tan triangular nose and a short mouth line below. Keep the expression sweet and minimal. The ears are small rounded semicircles sewn to the upper sides of the head.
Arms
Knit two slim tan arms and attach them low enough to show clearly against the mint dress. One arm can hold a small red flower. Stuff lightly and sew flat at the shoulder edge so the arms rest naturally against the body.
Mint Dress
Using mint green, knit a tiny pinafore-style dress with a softly flared skirt. The image shows a sleeveless mint overdress worn over a cream top. The neckline is slightly curved, and the bodice is simple. Keep the skirt short, ending above the bear’s knees.
Add two narrow shoulder straps and tiny red button details where the straps meet the upper front. These red dots are small but very noticeable in the image, so do not omit them. The mint tone should be soft and fresh, not bright neon.
Cream Sleeves or Top
Under the dress, add a short cream upper body covering or tiny cap sleeves. This creates the layered look seen at the shoulders. You can either knit a separate tiny cream top or fake it by sewing small cream shoulder caps beneath the dress straps.
Hat
The mini bear wears a small beige hat with a green top layer or trim and a flower decoration. Knit a shallow round hat base in beige, then add a green upper panel or band so the hat looks slightly two-toned. Attach a pale pink and red flower cluster on one side.
The hat sits at a jaunty angle on the bear’s head rather than pulled down flat. Sew it securely once the final angle looks right. This tilted positioning gives the bear companion the same dressed-up parlor character as the bunny.
Small Flower for Bear
Make one tiny deep red flower with a pale yellow center and place it in the bear’s paw or sew it directly to the side of the dress. In the image it appears like a held bloom near the lower right side. Keep it small so it does not overwhelm the bear.
Main Assembly
- Sew the head to the bunny body securely, checking that the face is centered and upright.
- Attach the ears low on the head so they fall straight down.
- Sew the arms to the torso with a slight downward angle.
- Dress the bunny in the pale dress.
- Add the cardigan over the dress and sew closed only at tiny underarm points if needed to keep it in place.
- Put on the beret and sew discreetly.
- Attach the red shoes.
- Make and place the bag, fan, tray, and loose flowers.
- Assemble the mini bear completely and position it beside the bunny.
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Styling Notes for a Close Visual Match
- Bunny body color: warm cream, not stark white.
- Dress color: pale blush-cream, lighter than the cardigan and beret.
- Cardigan color: medium dusty rose.
- Shoes: strong cherry red.
- Main floral motif: bold red blooms with green leaves.
- Face: tiny, calm, and centered.
- Ears: long, flat, and hanging.
- Beret: soft, rounded, and decorated on the front right.
- Mini bear dress: pale mint with red button accents.
Detailed Sequence for Newer Knitters
If you are newer to toy knitting, start by making the bunny legs, body, head, arms, and ears first. Assemble the bunny before making clothing. This lets you measure the exact dress and cardigan fit on your finished body rather than guessing from numbers alone.
Next, make the dress and check hem length carefully. The hem should stop above the shoes and below the bunny knees. Add the red flower motifs only after you are certain of placement. Then make the cardigan and verify that it ends high enough to show most of the skirt.
After that, make the beret and attach its floral details. The hat changes the personality of the whole doll, so take your time with the leaf sprigs and the placement of the red flower. Finally, complete the small props and the mini bear companion.
Final Assembly and Facial Detailing
When the bunny is fully assembled, examine the face from straight on. Adjust the ears so both hang evenly and the beret does not cover the eyes. If needed, add one or two hidden stitches at the back of the hat and at the ear tops to keep everything balanced.
Use a soft brush or your fingertips to smooth the knitted fabric after sewing. Recheck the nose position, eye spacing, and mouth length. Tiny facial changes make a big difference on a simple toy face, so keep the expression gentle, small, and symmetrical.
Care Notes
Handle the bunny and accessories as decorative knitted toys rather than rough play items. Store the fan, tray, and loose flowers together so the set stays complete. If the clothing is removable, take it off gently and avoid stretching the neck opening or cardigan fronts.
Quick Checklist Before You Finish
- Head centered and firmly attached
- Ears hanging evenly
- Eyes matched in height and width
- Nose and mouth centered
- Dress hem sitting above the shoes
- Five red flower motifs visible on the skirt front
- Cardigan cropped and open at the front
- Beret decorated with leaves and one red flower
- Shoes matched and secure
- Mini bear fully dressed with hat and flower
- Bag, fan, tray, and loose flowers completed
Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines
Spot clean with a barely damp cloth and mild soap only when needed. Do not soak if the accessories contain shaping inserts or tightly sewn decorative parts. Blot excess moisture with a towel and reshape while damp. Dry flat away from direct heat or strong sunlight.
For long-term storage, wrap the set in clean tissue and place it in a breathable box. Avoid hanging the bunny by the ears or storing heavy items on top of the beret and accessories. Cedar or lavender sachets nearby can help protect natural fibers, but do not place them directly against the toy.
