Willow School Bunny – Knitting

Soft, charming, and full of storybook character, this knitted school bunny set is a wonderful choice for anyone who loves handmade toys, collectible bunny dolls, nursery decor, heirloom gifts, and seasonal craft projects. The design features a gentle rabbit in a school outfit, complete with beret, tie, skirt, satchel, tiny hedgehog friend, books, and apple. It is a lovely piece for knitters who enjoy detailed toy making and for readers searching for a knitted rabbit doll, handmade stuffed bunny, school-themed toy, or giftable knitted animal with timeless appeal.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Overview

This pattern creates a seated rabbit with long floppy ears, a rounded head, a softly shaped muzzle, slim arms, long legs, Mary Jane style shoes, a green beret with a red pom-pom, a pale green collared shirt, a dark red tie, a charcoal pleated skirt, and a crossbody satchel.

The set also includes a tiny hedgehog companion wearing a blue dress and holding a small red mushroom. To match the image completely, the pattern includes directions for a stack of tied books and a small apple. Every visible element is included so the finished set feels complete and true to the original scene.

The bunny is designed as a decorative knitted toy rather than a rough-play toy. The body is softly stuffed, the clothing is mostly removable except where noted, and the accessories are intentionally scaled to create a sweet school-day look.

Finished Size

• Main bunny: about 14 to 16 inches tall when measured from the top of the head to the bottom of the feet, not including the beret pom-pom.
• Hedgehog: about 4 to 5 inches tall.
• Satchel: about 2 inches wide.
• Books: each about 1 inch wide.
• Apple: about 1 inch across.

Exact size will vary with yarn choice, stuffing density, and personal gauge. Aim for a firm fabric that prevents stuffing from showing through. A tight, neat gauge is especially important for the face, shoes, and small accessories.

Skill Level

Intermediate, with patience for shaping and finishing. A confident beginner can also make it by taking each section slowly. The knitting itself uses familiar toy-making methods, while the accuracy comes from careful assembly and balanced proportions.

Materials

• DK or light worsted yarn in cream for the bunny body.
• Soft sage green yarn for the beret and shirt.
• Deep red yarn for the tie and beret pom-pom.
• Dark charcoal yarn for the skirt and satchel.
• Deep forest green yarn for the shoes.
• Medium brown yarn for the hedgehog face, arms, and feet.
• Dark brown textured or brushed yarn for the hedgehog spines.
• Sky blue yarn for the hedgehog dress.
• Red yarn for the mushroom cap and apple.
• Cream or beige yarn for the mushroom stem.
• Green yarn scrap for the apple leaf.
• Muted teal, dusty pink, and cream scraps for the books.
• Small amount of black embroidery yarn for facial features.
• Toy stuffing.
• Two small black beads for bunny eyes if preferred, though embroidered eyes are recommended for a soft look.
• Two tiny black beads or French knots for hedgehog eyes.
• One small button for the satchel flap.
• Thin cord or yarn scrap to tie the books.

Tools

• Knitting needles suitable for your yarn, usually 2.75 mm to 3.5 mm for a tight toy fabric.
• Double-pointed needles for small pieces, or your preferred small-circumference method.
• Tapestry needle.
• Stitch markers.
• Scissors.
• Row counter.
• Optional small crochet hook for picking up dropped stitches or helping with tiny finishing details.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical in the usual garment sense, but consistency matters. Knit firmly enough that stuffing does not show. If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size. If it feels too stiff to shape comfortably, go up slightly.

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• St st = stockinette stitch
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase
• kfb = knit into front and back of stitch
• ssk = slip, slip, knit
• k2tog = knit 2 together
• p2tog = purl 2 together
• BO = bind off
• rep = repeat
• sts = stitches

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Construction Notes

The bunny is worked in separate pieces and sewn together. This gives better control over posture, clothing fit, and the soft, rounded look in the image. The head is large and gentle, the torso is narrower, and the legs are long enough to let the toy sit with feet forward.

The ears are attached low enough to drape down along the sides of the face. The arms are slim and lightly stuffed. The skirt is shaped with vertical pleat-like texture. The shirt sits just over the top of the skirt, and the satchel strap crosses diagonally over the chest.

Take your time during assembly. The image depends on balance more than speed. A small shift in ear placement, shoe angle, or tie length will noticeably change the character, so pin first and sew only when everything looks right.

Main Bunny Body

Legs Make 2

Using cream yarn, CO 16 sts. Work in St st for 24 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next row, then every 8th row twice more. You will have 22 sts. Continue straight until the leg measures long and slim, about 5 inches from the cast-on edge.

Shape the top of the leg with one decrease row on the RS: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Work 3 rows even. Repeat this decrease row twice more. Bind off. Sew the side seam neatly, close the lower end lightly, and stuff the leg firmly but not hard.

The legs in the image are straight with a soft tube shape rather than thick thighs. Keep the stuffing even from ankle to upper leg. Avoid overstuffing the knee area so the seated pose remains relaxed when attached to the body.

Body

Using cream yarn, CO 24 sts. Work 6 rows in St st. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Work 3 rows even. Repeat these increase rows 4 more times to reach 34 sts. This creates a softly widening lower torso.

Work straight for 18 rows. Begin shaping the upper body by decreasing at each end of every 4th row 4 times. You will return to 26 sts. Work 10 rows even. Bind off. Sew the side seam and lower seam, leaving the neck edge open.

Stuff the body firmly at the bottom and more moderately near the upper torso. The finished shape should be slightly pear-like, but still gentle and narrow. This lets the shirt sit smoothly and keeps the skirt from looking bulky.

Arms Make 2

Using cream yarn, CO 14 sts. Work in St st for 28 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end of row 10 and row 20. You will have 18 sts. Work 4 more rows. Bind off. Sew the seam and stuff lightly, leaving the top inch softer for easier attachment.

The arms should look slim and relaxed, not muscular or stiff. They hang beside the torso with a slight inward curve. Before sewing, gently bend each arm with your fingers so the shape feels natural against the body.

Head

Using cream yarn, CO 18 sts. Work 1 row purl. Increase evenly across the next RS row to 24 sts. Work 3 rows even. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row and then every 4th row 6 times, while also increasing 4 center stitches evenly over the first 3 increase sections.

You should reach about 40 to 42 sts, depending on how you prefer to distribute the shaping. Work straight for 20 rows. This forms the full cheek and forehead area. The head in the image is broad, rounded, and slightly taller than it is wide.

To shape the crown, decrease 1 stitch at each end of every 4th row 6 times, then every RS row 3 times. When the opening is small enough, thread yarn through the live stitches, pull tight, and secure. Sew the seam carefully.

Stuff the head firmly but gently. Add extra stuffing in the cheeks and forehead, then smooth with your fingers. The muzzle area should project only slightly. Do not create a pointed snout. The face is soft, flat, and calm, with delicate contour rather than bold shaping.

Ears Make 2

Using cream yarn, CO 12 sts. Work 6 rows in St st. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row, then every 6th row 3 more times. You will have 20 sts. Work straight until the ear measures about 4.5 to 5 inches.

Shape the tip by working k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 on every RS row, with WS rows plain, until 8 sts remain. Bind off. Sew the seam very lightly or mattress-stitch the edges so the ear stays soft and flat.

Do not stuff the ears. Steam lightly if needed so they drape smoothly. The ears in the image hang straight down from low head placement and soften the face. They should not stand up, flare out, or fold sharply.

Face Shaping and Embroidery Placement

Place the eyes with wide spacing and a calm expression. They sit above the muzzle line and slightly toward the outer cheeks. If using embroidery, make small vertical oval eyes in dark yarn. If using beads, choose tiny beads and attach them very securely.

The nose is formed with a simple central stitched line that branches into a soft Y shape at the mouth. Use dark brown or muted charcoal yarn rather than harsh black if you want a softer finish. Keep the mouth short and neat.

Lightly indent the eye area if desired by passing strong thread through the head from one eye position to the other. Pull gently. This is optional, but it helps create the placid, thoughtful school-bunny expression shown in the image.

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Beret

Using sage green yarn, CO 72 sts on small needles. Join carefully if working in the round, or work flat and seam later. Begin with 6 rounds or rows of k1, p1 rib. This ribbed section becomes the fitted edge that sits around the bunny’s head.

Increase evenly across the next round or RS row to 96 sts. Work 10 rounds or rows in St st. Increase evenly again to 112 sts. Work 8 more rounds or rows. This creates the full, gently slouching crown of the beret.

Begin reducing for the top by dividing the stitches into 8 sections. Decrease 1 stitch in each section on every other round or every RS row until 16 sts remain. Thread yarn through the remaining stitches, pull tight, and fasten off.

Sew the seam if worked flat. Shape the beret so it leans to one side rather than sitting centered like a beanie. The image shows a soft tilt, with the top drifting leftward and the pom-pom resting near the upper side.

Pom-Pom

Make a small, dense pom-pom in deep red yarn, about 1 inch wide. Trim it neatly into a rounded ball and sew it firmly to the top of the beret. Keep it compact. A loose pom-pom will look too casual and will not match the crisp school look.

Shirt

The shirt is a short-sleeved, pale green knit piece with vertical rib texture and a small collar. It closes at the front or back depending on your preference, but the finish should appear smooth and tidy from the front because the tie sits centered.

Back and Front Body of Shirt

Using sage green yarn, CO 40 sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for the full fabric to mimic the vertical striped look in the image. Work 12 rows. Divide for front opening if desired, or continue straight if you prefer a back closure.

For a back-closing version, work 10 more rows even. Shape armholes by binding off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease 1 stitch at each armhole edge on the next 2 RS rows. Continue until the piece reaches the shoulder line.

Shape a gentle neckline by binding off the center 10 sts and working each side separately. Bind off shoulder stitches. Make a second matching piece or adapt the front with a slightly deeper neckline if preferred. Seam shoulders neatly.

Sleeves Make 2

CO 24 sts in sage green. Work in k2, p2 rib for 10 rows. Bind off. Sew the sleeve bands into shallow tubes and attach them to the armholes. The sleeves should sit close to the upper arms with a slight rolled softness at the edge.

The shirt in the image is not oversized. It fits close to the body and ends right above the skirt. Keep the hem even and the rib columns straight. This detail matters because the pale green vertical texture is one of the strongest visual features.

Collar

Pick up stitches evenly around the neckline using sage green yarn. Work 4 rows in k1, p1 rib. On the next row, increase slightly at the outer edges to help the collar spread. Work 2 more rows, then bind off loosely.

Fold the collar outward and tack it in place at the points if needed. The collar should look modest, crisp, and symmetrical. It frames the red tie and gives the bunny the school-uniform charm seen in the image.

Tie

Using deep red yarn, CO 7 sts. Work in St st for 4 rows. Increase 1 stitch at each end of the next RS row. Work 4 rows even. Increase 1 stitch at each end again. Continue until the widest part measures about 11 sts.

Work straight for 10 rows. Then begin tapering slightly toward the knot section by decreasing 1 stitch at each end every 4th row until 7 sts remain. Work 4 rows. For the neck knot, make a small rectangle or wrap a short yarn strip around the top.

The tie should be long enough to reach below the shirt opening and rest onto the top of the skirt. It must look narrow and school-uniform neat, not wide or floppy. Light stuffing is not needed. Keep it flat and smooth.

Pleated Skirt

This piece is important for matching the image. The skirt is dark charcoal, gently flared, and visually divided into pleat sections. The easiest way to recreate this effect is with alternating panels of knit and reverse-stockinette texture, plus measured increases.

Using charcoal yarn, CO 72 sts. Work 4 rows in garter or k1, p1 rib for the waistband. Then establish pleat pattern across the row: 6 knit, 2 purl, repeat to end. On WS rows, work stitches as they appear.

Every 6th row, increase 1 stitch in each knit panel near the purl divider. Continue for 5 increase sections. This creates a gentle flare while keeping the vertical pleat lines visible. When the skirt reaches about 3.5 inches, bind off loosely.

Sew the side seam and gather or ease the waistband slightly if needed to fit the bunny’s body. The skirt should sit high at the waist and spread outward while the bunny is seated. It should not cling tightly around the legs.

Satchel Bag

Using charcoal yarn, CO 18 sts. Work in St st for 16 rows. Bind off. Make a second matching rectangle. Sew the sides and bottom together, leaving the top open. For a softer bag, lightly stuff the base with a tiny amount of filling.

For the flap, pick up 18 sts across the top of one side. Work 8 rows in St st, then decrease at each edge every RS row until the flap is rounded. Bind off. Sew a tiny button or embroidered nub to the front center.

For the strap, make an I-cord or narrow knitted strip long enough to cross from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Attach it securely at both sides of the bag. Position the finished satchel diagonally across the bunny’s body exactly as shown.

Shoes Make 2

The shoes are deep green Mary Jane style shoes with a rounded toe and a visible strap over the instep. Begin with the sole. Using forest green yarn, CO 10 sts. Work in garter stitch, increasing at each end every other row until 16 sts.

Work 10 rows even. Decrease at each end every other row until 10 sts remain. Bind off. Make a second sole. For the upper, pick up stitches around each sole edge. Work short rows over the toe area to create height at the front.

Continue knitting upward for several rows in St st to form the rounded shoe body. Bind off around the ankle opening. Sew neatly under the sole and at the heel. The front should look plump and smooth rather than pointed.

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For the strap, CO 3 sts and knit a narrow band long enough to cross the top opening. Sew one side to the shoe, stretch lightly over the instep, and sew the other side down. Leave a pale opening at the top to mimic the white sock area.

Books

Make three tiny books in muted teal, dusty pink, and cream. For each book, CO 10 sts in the chosen cover color. Work 8 rows in St st. Bind off. Make a second matching rectangle. Sew around three sides and add a tiny bit of stuffing.

Use cream yarn to add a small line at the page edge if desired. Stack the three books unevenly, with the top one slightly shifted. Tie them together with thin string or yarn, wrapping both directions and knotting at the top. Keep the stack charming and slightly rustic.

Apple

Using red yarn, CO 12 sts. Work in St st, increasing 1 stitch at each end every 2nd row 3 times. Work 6 rows even. Decrease at each end every 2nd row 3 times. Bind off, sew the side seam, gather top and bottom, and stuff lightly.

Pull the top and bottom gathers inward a little to create the classic apple shape. Add a tiny brown stem with embroidery or yarn, then knit or crochet a tiny green leaf and sew it near the stem. The apple should look small and rounded.

Hedgehog Friend

Body and Head

Using medium brown yarn, CO 14 sts. Work in St st, increasing at each end every 4th row 4 times. Work 10 rows even. Decrease at each end every 4th row 3 times. Continue straight for 6 rows to form the neck and lower head.

Increase again at each end every 4th row 3 times for the head. Work 8 rows even. Shape the top by decreasing at each end every RS row until a small opening remains. Sew the seam and stuff firmly. The shape should be pear-like, with a tiny face.

Face

Embroider two tiny black eyes close together and add a small nose at the tip of the muzzle. Keep all features miniature and sweet. The hedgehog should have a curious, gentle expression that complements the calm bunny.

Spine Cap

Using dark brown textured yarn, make a cap that covers the back of the head and body. CO 18 sts. Work in St st with soft increases and decreases to fit the back curve. Brush lightly if your yarn allows, or use boucle or fuzzy yarn for texture.

Sew the cap onto the back so it frames the face and extends down the body. The spines should look full and slightly fluffy, not sharply spiked. In the image, the hedgehog texture is soft and rounded.

Arms and Feet

Make tiny tube arms and small oval feet in medium brown yarn. Stuff very lightly. Sew the arms near the upper dress edge and the feet beneath the lower body so the hedgehog can stand or lean securely when posed beside the bunny.

Blue Dress

Using sky blue yarn, CO enough stitches to fit around the hedgehog body with slight flare, about 28 sts. Work 3 rows in garter, then continue in St st or a simple knit texture for 10 to 12 rows. Bind off. Seam into a little dress tube.

Make two tiny straps or short sleeves if desired, but keep the dress simple. The image shows a clean little blue garment that covers the body and lets the face, arms, and mushroom remain clearly visible.

Mushroom

For the stem, use cream yarn and knit a tiny tube. For the cap, use red yarn to make a small dome. Add tiny cream or white embroidered dots if you wish, but keep them very subtle. Sew the mushroom into the hedgehog’s hands.

Assembly Order

1. Sew and stuff the bunny legs, body, arms, head, and ears.
2. Attach the head to the body securely and check balance.
3. Sew the legs to the lower body in a seated angle.
4. Attach the arms at the shoulder line.
5. Sew ears low on the head so they hang down.
6. Embroider the bunny face.
7. Dress the bunny in the shirt, tie, skirt, beret, satchel, and shoes.
8. Make and finish the hedgehog.
9. Complete the books and apple.
10. Arrange all accessories to match the image.

Positioning Tips for an Accurate Finish

Head placement: The head should sit centered and upright, with only a slight forward softness. A head tilted too far back will lose the gentle thoughtful feeling. A head tipped too far down will hide the collar and tie.

Ear placement: Sew the ears slightly behind the side center line of the head. They should begin low enough to frame the cheeks and hang straight down, stopping around shoulder level.

Leg angle: Attach the legs to project forward in a seated pose. The knees should remain soft, and the shoes should point outward only slightly. Keep both feet level so the Mary Jane straps are visible.

Arm angle: The arms hang naturally at the sides and angle inward a touch. Avoid stiff horizontal placement. The satchel strap should pass cleanly across the chest without forcing one arm into an unnatural pose.

Beret tilt: Position the beret so it sits low and slouches to one side. This is essential. A centered hat changes the character completely. The red pom-pom should be visible from the front.

Tie length: The lower point of the tie should land over the upper skirt area. Too short will look unfinished. Too long will hide the skirt texture.

Skirt fullness: Spread the pleat sections evenly around the body before sewing or fastening. The skirt should open gracefully while seated, with visible vertical structure.

Satchel position: The bag rests at the bunny’s right side, with the strap crossing from the opposite shoulder. Tack the strap lightly so it stays neat for display.

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Suggested Yarn Palette

• Cream body for a soft classic rabbit look.
• Sage green shirt and beret for a quiet school-uniform palette.
• Deep red tie and pom-pom for contrast.
• Charcoal skirt and satchel for grounded structure.
• Forest green shoes to echo the green tones without blending into the shirt.
• Blue hedgehog dress to separate the companion from the bunny visually.

Helpful Knitting Advice for Beginners

If you are newer to toy knitting, focus first on tidy seams, even stuffing, and careful pinning. Those three things matter more than tiny gauge differences. This design becomes beautiful through finishing, especially in the face, collar, shoes, and accessory placement.

Work one piece at a time and label them as you go. Small toy parts can look similar while unfinished. It helps to keep body parts, clothing pieces, and accessories in separate little bags or trays until you are ready to assemble the full set.

When stuffing, use very small amounts at a time. Push filling into corners gently with the blunt end of a knitting needle or a chopstick. Large clumps will make the surface lumpy, especially on the head and tiny hedgehog body.

Before sewing anything permanently, place the bunny on a table and compare both sides. Check that the ears hang evenly, the eyes match, the tie is centered, and the shoes sit at the same height. This extra pause makes a big difference.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

Sew the head to the body with a strong ladder stitch, circling twice for security. Attach the ears low and slightly behind the widest part of the head. Embroider the eyes first, then the nose, then the mouth, keeping every line small and calm.

Dress the bunny in the shirt and collar, center the tie, and fit the skirt snugly at the waist. Add the beret at a side tilt. Place the satchel across the body and tack it discreetly. Slip on the shoes last so the feet remain evenly posed.

Set the hedgehog beside the bunny, place the books near the opposite side, and add the apple as a final accent. These tiny props complete the school-day story and are worth the extra finishing time.

Care Notes

• Display gently and avoid heavy pulling on accessories.
• Keep away from prolonged direct sunlight to preserve color.
• Store with the beret and satchel supported so straps do not stretch.
• For best shape, keep the bunny seated or well supported when displayed upright.

Quick Checklist Before You Finish

• Are both ears the same length and attached evenly?
• Are the eyes balanced and softly spaced?
• Does the tie sit straight and reach the upper skirt?
• Is the beret tilted instead of centered?
• Do the pleat lines on the skirt show clearly?
• Is the satchel crossing the body neatly?
• Are the Mary Jane straps visible on both shoes?
• Did you include the hedgehog, books, and apple?

Detailed Cleaning and Preservation Guidelines

Spot clean only with a barely damp cloth and mild soap if needed. Avoid soaking, twisting, or machine washing. Press moisture out gently with a dry towel and reshape while damp. Let every piece air dry naturally away from heat.

For long-term storage, wrap the bunny and accessories in clean tissue and place them in a breathable box. Avoid plastic bags in humid conditions. Add a note listing where each prop belongs, so the full display can be reassembled easily later.